Wine of Georgia | Budget Bucket List

Wine of Georgia (Kakheti Region)

Not in the story-mood? Scroll down for the Quick Budget Fact Overview: an itemized information summary of Kakheti! ↓

Georgians are proud folks. However, nothing gets them riled up as much as their local wine tradition. Not only dare they compete with global wine goliaths such as Italy, Argentina and Spain, they also hold the ultimate trump card: Wine was born on their soil, with archaeological evidence dating 8000 years back to show for it! Big words and cold facts that vividly come to live by the fierce passion of the people and the pure dedication to the craft. Never have I visited a country in which 90% of all the backyards I strolled by had some cheeky grapes draping over the fence. Just about every local family I encountered along my journey had their personal brew fermenting in the basement, eager to gauge my reaction after the first generously poured sip. The viticultural tradition is embroidered within Georgia’s DNA, slowly getting discovered by an ever-expanding international crowd.

Georgian Wine

Besides its historical roots and socio-cultural embedment, there’s another strong element setting Georgian wine apart... and the most crucial factor of all: the flavor. Whereas on a worldwide level barrel fermentation has been adopted as the common wine-making practice, Georgia also strongly holds on to the ancient Caucasian method of “qvevri’s” (although the European barrel-practice is also being implemented at a growing rate). These earthenware amphoras, often big enough to contain several people*, are buried underground containing the entire mashed product of the grape, including the stems, seeds and skins. The vessels are subsequently sealed and left inhumed for multiple months, causing it to reach a deep, creamy yet natural and earthy maturity. No wonder this practice is crowned a UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage!

* Fun fact: during the process of cleaning the qvevri’s it’s required to keep whistling. This way you make it known that you haven’t passed out from the wine fumes yet.

Up ‘till date, Georgia has grown up to 530 documented grape varieties, of which some extremely rare, blending into unique combinations you’re likely to sample along your journey. The most common wines include:

Red

Saperavi: An outstanding dry red, produced in barrels as well as in qvevri’s.
Kindzmarauli: The red, velvety, semi-sweet poster boy of the Kakheti-region.
Akhasheni: A bold, red semi-sweet Saperavi wine with hints of chocolate.
Kvanchkara: High-end, semi-sweet red put together by Alexandrouli and Mudzhuretuli grapes.
Mukuzani: A celebrated, complex Saperavi-based red, matured in oak for 3 years.
Ojaleshi: Semi-sweet red from the Samegrelo region, known for its rich yet gentle aroma.
Alazani: Red, semi-sweet table wine brewed from a mix of Saperavi and Rkatsiteli.

White

Kisi: A unique amber-variety aged in animal skin (so definitely not vegan), conveying wooden, smoky tones.
Rkatsiteli: Grape variety used to make barrel-fermented dry, semidry and dessert wines with a fruity flavor.
Tvishi: Semi-sweet amber-colored wine from the Racha region, known for its fruity bouquet.
Tsinandali: A delicate, fruity white composed of Rkatsiteli and Mtsvane grapes.
Mtsvane: Aromatic grape with a dry merge of peach, fruit blossoms and minerals.
Tsolikouri: Heavily-bodied oak-wine with hints of citrus, white plum, yellow fruits and flowers.
Pirosmani: Semi-sweet white composed of Tsolikouri and Tsitska. Also comes in a red variety.
Tbilisuri: Fruity, semi-dry, pink-colored mix of Saperavi, Cabernet and Rkatsiteli.

Foreign varieties prepared on Georgian soil include: Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Pinot Noir, Merlot, Syrah, Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Aligoté, Muscat, Cabernet Franc, and Riesling.

Source

Fill My Glass!

The entire country of Georgia is deeply drenched into the wine tradition, from micro to macro, from family cellar (the so-called “marani”) to globally exporting enterprises. Yet, there are certain regions that function as the main production hubs. These include: Lechkhumi, Racha, Kartli, Meskheti, Imereti, Adjara, Guria, Samegrelo, the Russian-occupied area of Abkhazia and most prominently: Kakheti. This area in the extreme eastern part of Georgia fares well on their proximity to the Caucasus. The fertile landscapes, rich water sources and mild climate are all factors attributing to its exquisite end product, while also forming a reason to visit the region for tourism purposes. When you have some time on your hands, I strongly recommend doing so and spending a few days in every wine-town of Kakheti… it was one of the main highlights of my 2 months in Georgia (but then again, I was drinking every day, so I might be slightly exaggerating ;)). As an extra motivation: The money you’ll spend on a 1-day winery tour departing from Tbilisi (usually excluding the tasting fees) covers already the cost of a mashrutka to Kakheti and a couple of nights of budget accommodation… so you might as well!

Let’s dive a tad deeper into the Kakheti region, shall we?

[Keep in mind that some wineries accept walk-ins, but most of them – especially the smaller family wineries – are upon reservation only. Due to the current hyperinflation of Georgia, I refrain from quoting exact tasting prices as they’re likely to rise soon after publication: I will just mention the price range compared to the winery’s competitors.]

Sighnaghi

Every single part of Sighnaghi screams “tourist trap”*. But what did you expect? Take a charming little hamlet full of cute traditional architecture and plunge it right on top of a hill allowing for far-reaching panoramas all around, and you get yourself a loud and clear winner. Especially if you add sublime booze to the equation. I totally fell for it. Be careful with the liquor though, Sighnaghi is dubbed the City of Love for a reason… you can get married for next to nothing, which is a Ross-and-Rachel-situation you might want to avoid.

Sighnaghi houses a vast amount of wineries and cellars ready to top your glass, and with its ever-growing popularity more and more pop out of the ground to surf that wave. So little time, so much to drink! Which ones are worth going to?

* This means that street- and market vendors charge about 1,5x the price compared to elsewhere in Georgia, so it’s best to buy your souvenirs elsewhere. For groceries there’s one supermarket and a selection of minimarkets which are definitely not as expensive as they could have been. The mentioned budget marriages used to be priced at 50 lari (USD 17,50), but they’re currently quoted at USD 80 – Georgian inflation for you.

Mari Cellar

They’re nowhere to be found on the internet and I would have missed them altogether if it weren’t for them being open late at night while their competitors had already closed their doors… but this random find turned out to be my favorite in entire Sighnaghi! For one of the lowest rates in town the chatty owner and her cheerful husband scoop you 4 wines right out of the qvevri, accompanied by some chacha and churchkhela (the real deal – the brown one made from actual grapes, not the colorful chemical ones you find in the rest of the country). While enjoying an extra complimentary cup of their powerful and truly notable Saperavi I listened to the stories about grandma who started the family wine tradition… The good woman not only turned 114 years old on her daily diet of home-made reds, she allegedly also shipped it to Ukraine to treat the health issues of Chernobyl victims. A wonder nectar indeed!

Gio's Wine Cellar

I was less excited about Gio’s Wine Cellar. Not only was the place an absolute mess, showing a lack of professionalism, I also really didn’t like the wine… and that’s in my case a rather unusual situation. I was presented two home-blends of Rkatsiteli and Saperavi, which both lacked any distinct flavor (truly the only Saperavi I found in Georgia that was close to undrinkable). The only slightly acceptable glasses presented were those from an external producer they randomly sold on the side: A semi-sweet Kisi and a Saperavi Alasani Veli. 3 types of chacha are included in the tasting price, but unfortunately no discount is provided for people like me who merely drink wine (that said, the tasting price is rather low if you merely focus on quantity).

Okro

This medium-priced restaurant offers tastings of their own natural wine-line. Consecutively I was served a light and refreshing Tavkveri Rose, a so-so Kartli more tasting like fruit juice than actual wine, a very satisfying Saperavi Classic and an even more outstanding velvety and smoky Saperavi Budeshuri qvevri wine… of which I immediately uncorked an entire bottle. The full experience is complemented with a fantastic valley view from their roof terrace.

World of Wine

This restaurant-with-wine-cellar is attractive due to the affordable prices. Even though their wine menu about doubled in price since their last Google-review posted a few months before my visit, they still offer the most reasonable full-bottle prices in town. Their food is rather simple, but hearty and rather economical. In short: Nothing special, but a good pit-stop for some refuelling.

Pheasant's Tears

A dramatic name for a rather pretentious place. With tastings prices literally 3-4 times more expensive than the ones elsewhere in Sighnaghi, their reviews must be truly better than they actually were to allow for a Budget-Bucket-List-splurge. As such, I did not go. Unlike Anthony Bourdain, the famous down-to-earth traveling chef highlighting the exquisite in the mundane and obscure, who probably unwillingly caused this place to overcharge the way they do.

Koncho & Co

This is not a winery but a wine shop, which happened to have a sign out inviting people in for a free tasting. That obviously didn’t fall to deaf man’s ears... Swiftly I was inside to collect those 4 glasses. As expected, a guilt-trip to buy a bottle is all part of the experience… and the elevated price of those certainly include that tasting!

Unavailable during my visit: Kerovani Winery; Cradle of Wine Marani; Kalo Winery; Damere Wine; Wine Museum.

In the area: Zemo Magharo, Vakiri & Kardanakhi

Cherkeza’s Zedashe

For a more rural experience, Cherkeza’s in Zemo Magharo is an option. It’s located quite a bit outside of Sighnaghi without any public transport at hand, so I hitchhiked my way over there. I barged in without a reservation, so unfortunately the (medium-level priced) tasting wasn’t available. I did meet some very friendly family members who showed me around the premises and offered me a glass of fruity white… which was, it pains me to say it because of how kind they were, pretty horrendous. And I was already quite hammered at that point, so I’m scared to think about the flavor experienced sober.

Vakiri: Damere Wine; Winery Machari.
Kardanakhi: Kardanakhi Estate; Kardanakhi Wine Factory; Kardanakhi 188; Shalvino Gvaramadze Winery; Elizbar Talakvadze Winery; Nika Winery (free tasting, but expensive bottles); Winery Alazani; Avrandil Bedenashvili Winery; Nonia's Marani; Nagdi Marani (tasty and cheap); Ancestral Wine Cellar (want 1 week notice for a tasting and refuse to quote bottle-prices).

Extra activities to enjoy in between the wine tastings include a short little city stroll, a walk down the city walls, or if you’re rather bored: a visit to the Sighnaghi Museum (unlike in the rest of Georgia, student discounts apply to foreign students as well). During my visitation, the museum displayed besides a history-overview of Sighnaghi, an art collection from the rather simple and childish paintings of Niko Pirosmanashvili.

Kvareli

Kvareli is the polar opposite of Sighnaghi… no panoramic views, no scenic architecture and no tourist infrastructure (besides the main road you’ll find mainly dusty dirt roads). Therefore, this more down-to-earth, far from picture-perfect destination doesn’t even have the tiniest slice of Sighnaghi’s tourism… yet, it’s the main wine hub of the Kakheti region. You could stay here for days, filling the days with wine tastings (which are overall much cheaper here). So that’s exactly what I did.

Old Vine

Old Vine had the honor to host my first Kvareli wine tasting! A great start indeed. For a reasonable fee this friendly family-run winery presents 5 small tasting glasses of wine, 2 types of chacha, a 5-year old brandy and a small snack platter. An engaging tour (in English) around the property and along the steps of wine- and chacha-making is included in the experience. I had the pleasure to sample their dry, orange Rkatstiteli, the light ‘n white Kisi from the qvevri, a pleasant Kindzmarauli and two types of qvevri Saperavi. The first Saperavi was aged with the skins, and the second without… the latter creating a more subtle flavour, which definitely will be marked as my personal Old Vine fav. A recommended stop in Kvareli!

Kindzmarauli

The most economical tasting- and bottle deals are to be found at Kindzmarauli. This smoothly organized umbrella company includes several businesses, including the in Georgia widely spread Koncho & co, and produces around 2 million bottles a year (of which 80% for the international market). An incredibly cheap tasting includes 5 wines, a chacha, a brandy and an extensive tour through the massive estate. In 2 months in Georgia, I haven’t heard anyone speak such flawless English as the staff members of Kindzmarauli. And the wines? Their dry Kisi from the qvevri was my favorite of the kind so far (I’m generally not a big fan of this wine), unlike their barrel Kisi which was too watery, in my opinion… although it seemed to be the group-favorite, which speaks for its accessibility. The Saperavi, my normal go-to-wine in Georgia, was a bit too dry here for my taste, but their Kindzmarauli was more subtle than I’m used to. They also managed to introduce me to a new dry red to die for: the Chakrulo, what a blessing to mankind! Don’t forget to stock up, as bottles go for as low as 2 euros each and there are more than 40 different types on sale… did I just find Winehalla?

There’s also a restaurant on the property, serving quality food.

Lunisi Family Cellar

Another enjoyable tasting can be booked in by the Lunisi family (related to the Old Vine family), who host their wine lovers in their snug and tastefully decorated backyard. Along with a generous snack platter (big enough to skip dinner) they kicked off with the famous orange Rkatsiteli wine, which was surprisingly enough prepared in a qvevri, which is rather unusual for this wine type. This light variety was followed with another one, namely a dry rose. I was however more impressed by their Saperavi, as well as by their odd carbonated Kindzmarauli. The Lunisi’s for sure like to experiment! I approve.

Kvareli Wine Cave / Winery Khareba

Khareba has several wineries throughout the country, but the Wine Cave is undoubtedly the most impressive one (I’ve seen all of them, so I can vouch for that). The tunnel was constructed in 1959 by the Soviet government in preparation of the 1962 World Wine Congress and is 7.7km long, consists of 15 interconnected gates and can store no less than 25mln litres of wine. When state-owned production made place for privatization, this grand structure came in the possession of Khareba, which possesses over 1000ha of vineyards in Georgia. They produce no less than 55 types of wine, of which I personally sampled the refreshing Rkatsiteli and two pleasant Saperavi’s (call me an enthusiast). The sheer size of this establishment demands a rather remote location, which translates into a 45-minute walk (or short cab-ride) from downtown Kvareli… but one that is worth it! For a very fair price they offer short tunnel tours with various wine tasting packages, with the option to combine it with interesting culinary workshops.

Found this interesting? Check out the Plantaže Winery in Podgorica (the largest of Montenegro), which is situated in an old Soviet hanger.

Photo by Miles Watson Photography.

Graneli Winery

Right next to Khareba’s wine tunnel sits the Graneli Winery, which generally serves as a second stop for those not yet ready to stop drinking. Honestly, it might be the best approach to arrive here slightly intoxicated, as the property is a tad tacky and the overall experience a little awkward and unwelcoming. The wine wasn’t bad though: For a mid-range fee (waived if you spent more than 30 lari on a bottle) they’ll pour you a naturally sweet Bakaroni, a shadow-grown Ojaleshi (according to my drunk tasting notes: “smells like wet dog, tastes like childhood”), an always-welcome Saperavi, and a Mukuzani. The latter is also derived from Saperavi grapes, but harvested on the soil of the Mukuzani village, which gives it a notably different flavor… it’s hard to believe we’re dealing with the same grape here! My appreciation goes to Graneli for introducing me to some new varieties.

Several wineries were unfortunately closed during my 4-day visit, or didn’t answer my calls or emails: Iveria (can’t reach them online, and their Google-location leads to a dirt road in the middle of nowhere); Tbilvino (no tastings available, as apparently this big national brand has only 1 employee who does them and s/he appeared to be out of office); Marani Isev Kvareli (only offers tastings to overnight guests).

Too expensive for my taste: Gigo Papa’s Wine Cellar; Mikheili's Marani (no tasting prices, you have to buy the entire bottle).

In the area: Nekresi & Shilda

Nekresi: Winery Naperebi; Nekresi Estate; Friends Cellar.
Shilda: Shilda Winery (pricy); Shaverge Wine Cellar (very expensive); Chelti Winery; Nine Oaks Estate; Chubini Winery; Gremeli Winery; Winery Malati; Kostarov Family Winery; Chateau Aurzauri; Artevani Wine

Besides drinking wine, there isn’t much to do in Kvareli. Potentially there could be, as there are no less than 3 museums available (Kote Marjanishvili House Museum; Money Museum; Ilia Chavchavadze Kvareli State Museum), conveniently located at one and the same recently developed square… However, during my visit in May, all of them were closed for unknown reasons. The surroundings of Kvareli are rather stunning for hiking, but keep in mind that it’ll take you at least 6km before you get properly out of town and into the mountain area. Most look-out points over the town (incl. the one with the massive statue) are either tree-covered or inaccessible Alternatively, if you have a vehicle at your disposal: Lagodekhi National Park is only a stone’s throw away.

Telavi

Upon my arrival in Telavi I was already feeling rather destroyed. I had 1.5 week of multiple daily wine tastings behind me and it felt like my body was sending alarming signs to please stop. As a result, I tried to steer clear from any organized wine tastings, which budget-wise turned out to be a smart move due to the more elevated prices here compared to Sighnaghi and Kvareli. But all my good intentions aside… Georgia without wine? Yeah, nice try dude! I was being hosted by a Couchsurfer (inside of a rugby stadium!) and as such, got introduced to the local tradition of toastmasters.

The toast-what?

The “tamada”, which is the local word for toastmaster, is the most crucial and honored person at a “supra”, the traditional dinner representing the cultural and social glue of Georgia. This person’s main occupation is setting the entire atmosphere of the evening by proposing toasts to several causes, which typically include toasts to God, to the motherland, to peace, to the deceased, to life and children, to parents, to the guests, to the event and to basically everything else that comes to mind. A good tamada bridges the gap between past, present and future. A sense of humour, a twist of poetry and a dab of wisdom are all important elements of the job. AND a resistance to alcohol, as during my time in Georgia I heard many a story of toastmasters drinking up to 10 litres of wine while still being the last man standing (I’ll take those tales with a grain of salt though, knowing that a 0.4% blood-alcohol-concentration caused by approx. 25 glasses puts you at risk of coma or death… and 10 litres is about 70 glasses). The best response to every toast? “Gaumarjos!”… to our victory!

Wineries of Telavi: Telavi Wine Cellar Marani (only on weekdays); Teliani Valley (don’t reply phones or email); Shalauri Wine Cellar (very expensive); GWS Georgian Wines (only phone appointments, no English spoken); Sesikeli Winery; Rostomaant Marani (pricey); Artana Estate Winery (only phone appointments, but don’t often pick up); Zurab Kvirikashvili Vineyards; Bardanashvili Marani (unwilling to quote price in advance); Dimitri Wine House; Shiukashvili Wine Cellar (under construction during my visit); Ambri Wine Saloon; Shakriani Estate; Solomnishvili Winery; Ikalto Winery; Marmenio; Vaziani Winery; Chona’s Marani; Winery Rtoni; Iionidzis Zvari; Winiveri; Milorava’s Wine Cellar; Shumi Winery & more in close proximity around town of which I enjoyed Chateau Kiralto the most.

If you have some cash to spare, you can take it all too far at the Schuchmann Wines Chateau & Spa. Want to ingest wine through the very pores of your skin? Red wine baths and grape seed oil scrubbings might be the right approach. What a time to be alive.

Activity-wise, Telavi has quite a lot to offer. A simple stroll around town is already a rewarding endeavour, with streets such as Erekele and Cholakshvili offering a well-preserved collection of eye-pleasing Georgian architecture. The Telaviin initiative, a series of QR-codes displayed on the doors and walls of the city, is of great assistance in understanding the various layers of the cityscape’s history. Don’t forget to continue up to the Fortress as well as the Gorijvori Church Viewpoint, if not for the square dotted with magnified collapsed anuses (seriously, what are those?), then for the gratifying views over both the town and the Caucasus rising up at its borders... That’s right, you’re at the edge of this glorious mountain chain, with the notorious road to Tusheti National Park starting just outside of the town’s borders. That said, the locals seem to be almost equally proud of the 900+ years old Giant Plane Tree, which is considered one of the town’s main sights. For any cultural attempts, you might want to give the Telavi State History and Ethnography Museum a go or pay a visit to the Shuamta Monasteries or the Alaverdi St. George Cathedral.

Georgian Food

Planning a classy Georgian bender? Don’t forget to build some resistance! Georgian food is nothing short of phenomenal and a vital element of the national cultural fibre. Some culinary boxes to check:

Khinkali: The iconic dumplings stuffed with meat (most common), cheese, potatoes or mushrooms.
Khachapuri: Cheese-stuffed bread. The Acharuli Khachapuri comes like a cheesy dough-boat with an egg floating in the middle… dare I say, “the perfect breakfast”? Other cheesy bread dishes include: Mchadi, Chishvdari, Gomi, Sinori and Elarji. A Lobiani is the vegan version of the khachapuri, filled with kidney bean paste.
Nigvziani Badrijani: An eggplant and walnut paste… a taste explosion! My absolute Georgian favorite!
Chakapuli: Traditional herbed lamb stew for the win.
Mtsvadi: Meat skewers composed of freshly fire-roasted salty pork chunks. No halal.
Chkmeruli: Chicken in a cream-based sauce… many a man’s go-to dish.
Ajapsandali: Georgian veggie ratatouille made of eggplants, tomatoes, bell peppers, garlic and cilantro.
Satsivi: Poultry accompanied by a garlicky walnut paste. Indeed, they love their walnuts here!
Kharcho: Spicy chicken or beef in a sauce enriched with walnuts and sour Tklapi (pureed fruit roll).
Qababi: Kebabs. Grilled minced meat wrapped in a thin lavash-like bread. It’s not for me.
Phkali: Balls of vegetables and walnuts with aromatic herbs and dried spices… not my favorite, to be honest with you, but you must find out for yourself. Comparable dishes are the Gogris Gupta (squash in a ball shape) and Qnashi (boiled minced pumpkin seeds).
Gebzhalia: Soup with the typical Sulguni Cheese and mint. Normally it is served as side dish with Gomi, as there’s no such a thing as a cheese-overload in Georgia.
Bozbashi: Soup of lamb meat with peas, chestnuts and tomatoes. A strange combination, but it works.
Tolma: Stuffed pickled cabbage leaves or grapevine leaves. You might have tasted them before in Turkey or the Balkans.
Lobio: For the veggie-lovers among us… a Georgian bean stew.
Jonjoli: Salad of pickled bladdernut flowers.
Borano: pieces of cheese with boiled butter… heart-attack alert!
Sauces --> Tkemali (sour plum sauce), Adjika (spicy tomato sauce), Bazhe / Satsizi (walnut sauce).
Candy --> Churchkhela: An odd sausage-shaped candy made of grape-mash, nicknamed the “Georgian Snickers.” Another strange invention is the Tklapi, a colorful sheet made of dried fruit pulp.

Note that if you order food in Georgia, you never get an actual full menu. Bread, rice, potatoes, vegetables etc. are not included and have to be ordered and paid for separately.

Photo by Miles Watson Photography. Georgians use wine vines for their traditional BBQ, providing the products with a distinct flavor.

Quick Budget Fact Overview

Georgia Facts

Capital: Tbilisi
Language: Georgian (separate alphabet)
Population: ± 3.7 mln
Sq km: ± 69,700
Currency: Lari (ლ )
Electricity Outlet: C & F / 220 V / 50 Hz. Check here.
Country Code Phone: +995 (331)
Emergency Phone: 113 (ambulance), 111 (fire), 122 (police)
Visa: Check out the visa requirements here.
Vaccinations: Covid.
Climate: Humid Subtropical (Cfa)
High season: Oct (grape harvest time)

Short History Recap

6200BC - 4000BC: Shulaveri (late Neolithic/Eneolithic culture). 4000BC – 2200BC: Trialeti culture. 3400BC - 2000BC: Kura-Araxes culture. 2500BC - 760BC: Diauehi: Coalition of tribes in north-eastern Anatolia. 1200BC - 600BC: Colchian culture (late Bronze / Iron Age). 700BC: Cimmerians & Scythians invade Georgia + Caucasus. Ancient Greek / Byzantine colonization of Black Sea. 600 BC: Kingdom of Colchis appears (west): Earliest Georgian formation. 302BC: Kingdom of Iberia founded (east). 284BC: Georgian alphabet created. 90BC: Artaxiad Dynasty. 65 BC: Pompey the Great makes Kingdom of Colchis a Roman province. 270: Anti-Roman uprising. 284: Chosroid Dynasty. Around 319: King Mirian III of Iberia declares Christianity as official religion. 5th Century: Fighting against Persian domination. 526-532: Iberian War. 541-562: Lazic War. 627: Perso-Turkic War: Tbilisi sacked by Turks and Byzantines. 654: Arabs enter. 1000: Bagrat III of Georgia founds Kingdom of Georgia. 1040: Seljuk Turks invade --> in 1121 defeated at Battle of Didgori. 1204: Queen Tamar (1184-1213 – 1st female ruler) conquers Black Coast of Byzantine Empire --> Empire of Trebizond created. 1400: Conqueros Timur (Turco-Mongol) invades / destroys / takes 60,000 as slaves to Timurid Empire. 1783: Treaty of Georgievsk --> Katli-Kakheti protectorate of Russia. ’95: Iranian invasion. 1801-04: Most of current Georgia part of the Russian Empire. ’79: Stalin born in Gori. 1918: Independent Georgian state. ’21: Red Army invades (Bolsheviks) à Georgia absorbed into Soviet Union (SU). Independence activists suppressed / killed. ’89: Demands for more autonomy in South Ossetia (SO) --> violent clashes. ‘ 91: Independence from SU declared. Georgian Civil War. SO votes in favour of independence. War in Abkhazia between Georgian government troops and separatist forces --> ’93: Abkhazian drives Georgian troops out. ’94: Ceasefire agreement --> Russian peacekeeping force in region. New currency (lari) introduced. 2001: (Russian) fighters from northern Caucasus back Abkhaz forces fighting against Georgian paramilitaries --> US special forces arrive to train and equip Georgian forces. ’03: Bloodless "Rose Revolution" removes President Shevardnadze (election issues). ’04: Tension in autonomous region Adjara. ’05: Russia starts to withdraw troops. ’06: Explosions on Russian side of border disrupts gas / electricity supplies (suspected sabotage) & suspends imports of Georgian wine. Georgia seizes control of Abkhazia's Kodori Gorge & announces plan for pro-Tbilisi government --> Abkhazia breaks off peace talks. SO vote in favour of independence, again. ’08: Start Russia-Georgia War. Russia strengthens ties with Abkhazia and SO à Georgia accuses them of planning de facto annexation. ’08: Georgia tries to retake SO --> military conflict with Russia: Russia ejects Georgian troops out of SO & Abkhazia. After 5 days: French-brokered peace agreement, but Russia recognizes territories as independent states & keeps military presence. NATO military exercises in Georgia. ’14: EU trade partnership deal. ‘15 August: Russian forces in SO move internal border 1.5 km further into Georgia, threatening main road linking west and east of country.

Photo by Miles Watson Photography.

Local Festivals

Sighnaghi Jazz Festival – Aug.
Sighnaghi Wine Festival – Oct.

Budget Bites

Local Dishes: Khinkali (dumplings); Acharuli (cheese bread); Khachapuri (cheese bread in different versions); Nigvziani Badrijani (eggplant and walnut paste dish); Lobio (bean stew); Lobiani (bean-stuffed bread); Jonjoli (pickled bladdernut flowers); Tkemali (sour plum sauce); Adjika (spicy tomato sauce); Phkali (vegetable balls); Tolma (meat and rice stuffed in grape or cabbage leaves); Ajapsandali (eggplant ratatouille); Bazhe / Satsizi (walnut sauce); Mchadi / Chishvdari (corn bread with cheese); Gomi / Elarji (cheese corn flour porridge); Gebzhalia (cheese / mint soup); Borano (cheese with boiled butter); Sinori (dough bread with cheese); Gogris Gupta (squash in a ball shape / vegetarian kefta); Qnashi (boiled minced pumpkin seeds); Qababi (kebab); Chakapuli (herbed lamb stew); Mtsvadi (meat skewers); Satsivi (poultry with walnut paste); Bozbashi (soup with lamb / peas / chestnuts / tomatoes); Chehkmeruli (chicken in a cream-based sauce); Puri / Tonis Puri (flatbread); Churchkhela (Georgian snickers). Keep in mind: While accommodation is rather affordable in Georgia, grabbing a bite in a restaurant is not.
The Veg Situation: Going veg is rather complicated in Georgia, as meat is the main ingredient in most meals. However, where there’s a will there’s a way and there are plenty ‘accidentally vegan / vegetarian’ typical Georgian dishes. Local veg dishes (descriptions above): Mushroom / Potato Khinkali; Acharuli; Khachapura; Nigvziani Badrijani (vegan); Lobio (vegan – verify no meat is added); Lobiani (vegan if not prepared in butter); Jonjoli (vegan); Tkemali (vegan); Adjika (vegan); Phkali (vegan); Ajapsandali (vegan); Bazhe / Satsizi (vegan); Mchadi / Chishvdari; Gomi / Elarji; Gebzhalia; Borano; Sinori; Gogris Gupta; Qnashi (vegan); Puri / Tonis Puri (vegan); Churchkhela (vegan); Tarkhunis Ghvezeli (tarragon stuffed bread).
National Drink: Wine; Chacha.
The local food delivery app is called Glovo. However, it’s pretty user-unfriendly and the customer service is a joke. I by all means advise against using it.
Georgia is known for its hospitality, sometimes to an almost pushy level. It’s very common to have alcohol (especially chacha) offered to you and a refusal can be deemed offensive. Vegans / vegetarians might encounter the same issue when having food offered to them, typically containing meat and dairy.

Sleep Cheap

Hostels / Hotels: are relatively cheap in Georgia. If you’re with 2 people or more, a private room or apartment is similar priced as a dormitory bed in a hostel. I personally found the best deals on Booking.com. They also have the biggest selection, are transparent about the final price and have an efficient search engine tailored to your specific needs. If you use it often enough, generous Genius-discounts are applied. I heard some tourists claim that a phone call to the accommodation shaves some extra cash off the Booking.com price, but I don’t have the same experience. A problem with Air BnB is that they’re not only more expensive, but many listings that you can book aren’t actually available. After you paid you’ll receive some message in Georgian or Russian that they’re closed for whatever reason, after which you’ll have to attempt to let them officially cancel so you get your money back (generally, if you cancel as a customer there’s only a partial refund). Very annoying! As such: Always email them first to verify if they’re in fact open. Agoda is often not transparent about prices, adding a lot of additional costs in the last booking-step. Opodo is a better alternative. Generally, you are expected to pay in cash. Writer’s choice: In Sighnaghi I stayed in the very cheap and central Goga Guesthouse. For next to nothing they offer private rooms with ensuite bathroom, and you can use the shared kitchen. In Kvareli I stayed in Hotel Europe, which is centrally located and rather affordable. The garden is pleasant, but their kitchen is a disaster zone. In Telavi I Couchsurfed at a room in the local rugby stadium with host Tengo.
Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost (unless you put a third-world country as homebase), but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate request explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored). Alternatives are Trust Roots, Be Welcome, Host A Sister and Warm Showers (for cyclists).
Housesitting: is an amazing exchange allowing you to stay short- or long-term in somebody’s house, while looking after their house and pets. There are many different websites, most of them paid… but once you landed a sit, the subscription fee is pays itself back quickly. The main housesitting site is Trusted Housesitters.
Wild Camping: is entirely legal in Georgia! I recommend keeping a distance from the cities and avoiding camping close to shepherd’s territory, as the bear-sized guard dogs can get quite aggressive if you accidentally get too close.

Mama Said

Safety: Georgia is a very safe country, but use your common sense like everywhere. Don’t walk alone in remote areas after sunset, don’t take valuables along and follow your instincts when entering certain neighbourhoods further away from the centre.
Georgia’s insane inflation: Almost all prices I found online (even in quite recent articles) have doubled or tripled. I was told that both Covid and the Russian War have caused an incredible inflation, so everything is unfortunately much more expensive than it used to be. I still didn’t consider Georgia an expensive country, but I found food, entry prices to attractions and museums as well as public transport not as cheap as I expected it to be. Also, even though the vast majority of the Georgians I met on my 2 months of traveling through the country were quite hospitable and friendly, many do love money a bit too much and will find ways to overcharge a foreigner which they deem by all means richer than they are (I’m not claiming they’re wrong, and I understand the inflation hasn’t been easy on them – but it’s something to keep into account).
The best credit/debit card for traveling is Wise, as they use the live conversion rates without any extra fees and you can create a Georgian wallet. Wise also has the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. Keep in mind that some ATMs charge a fee, the amount always indicated before completing the transaction. Payment by card is generally accepted in bigger supermarkets, but smaller shops always require cash. Accommodation is generally paid in cash.
Tap Water: is drinkable.
Simcard: Acquiring a sim card is pretty straightforward and very affordable (avoid the pricy EU roaming charges by getting a local sim). Don’t get a tourist package, which is more expensive than a regular package. You can go to any phone shop with your passport and buy the sim and package that interests you, and they’ll help you to set it up. Magti is said to have the best coverage in Georgia, and they sell both 7-days and 30-days packages. After the first installation, you can simply extend and pay with their app, which is also available in English. Alternatives are Geocell (poor coverage) and Beeline (cheaper but said to have worse service).

Transport

Walking: Sighnaghi and Kvareli are tiny, and all sights are within walking distance. Telavi is bigger and more spread out, but walking is still a good option to get around and check off all the sights. Keep into account that Google Maps is not entirely updated for Sighnaghi.
Cycling: Cycling is only for the bravest among us. Calling local traffic “hectic” is an understatement. Georgian drivers are among the most reckless I have seen worldwide. Generally, people don’t even take other drivers into account, let alone cyclists who form a rare sight on the Georgian roads.
City Buses / Tram / Metro: Only Telavi has public transport to get around in town, both by large buses and minibuses (“mashrutkas”). Surprisingly enough, the buses are entirely free! I’m not sure if this is temporary or permanent, so please advise me if you visited Telavi and this changed. Navigation apps such as Google Maps and Moovit don’t work here, so talking to locals is the only way to figure out which bus to take. I recorded bus route 2 on Wikiloc for your convenience.
Taxi / Uber: The main taxi apps are Yandex Go and Bolt. I recommend using these over hailing down a taxi on the street, so you can avoid being overcharged. Keep in mind: It’s quite common for taxi drivers around the bus stations to tell you a certain bus has been cancelled and your only option is taking a taxi… This is in 99% of the cases a lie.
Intercity Buses: The main way of city-to-city transport in Georgia is by minibus / “mashrutka.” Most destinations are labelled on the front window, but generally only in the Georgian alphabet. You can ask around and people will helpfully point you in the right direction. A downside of the mashrutkas is that traveling with a big backpack / suitcase can be rather complicated (sometimes an extra fee is charged), as there’s hardly any storage space. Especially considering the sheer amount of people that are crammed in during the ride, eventually standing crouched over in the pathway and sitting on each other’s laps. Another nuisance is that mashrutkas get cancelled if not enough people get in, which can considerably prolong your anticipated travel time. Sighnaghi’s central bus stop is right on the main square. Kvareli’s buses stop at 7 Gogebashvili Street. Telavi’s main bus stop is right next to the market. To get from Tbilisi to Telavi, take a mashrutka from the Isani or Ortachala bus station.
Train: Trains in Georgia are served by Georgian Railways (purchasing a ticket online doesn’t work quite well – it’s much easier to just buy it at the station). Taking a train here is something you’d do for the experience only, as not only are the trains leaving less frequent than the mashrutkas, they’re also slower, serve less destinations and cost more. Sighnaghi and Kvareli and are not served by any railways. Telavi has a railway station, but during my visit most connections weren’t operational. It’s recommended to check scheduled departures in advance.
Car Rental: Car rental is rather pricy in Georgia and only suitable for very confident drivers. The local traffic situation is a complete mayhem and might not resemble what you’re used to at home. I recommend taking the most extensive insurance package, as damage is easily made when looking at the road behaviour of most drivers.
Airport: Tbilisi International Airport (TBS).
Hitchhiking: is rather common in Georgia. Yet, my experience is that not everyone is keen to stop and at times you might have to wait a bit (although for a woman / couple it will always be much faster than for a man, as a rule of thumb anywhere in the world). You don’t have to trace down a convenient pull-over strip, as drivers will stop anywhere, even if it blocks all other traffic. Take into account that English (or any other language but Georgian and Russian) is not widely spoken, so chit-chat might be complicated.

Next?

National Destinations Close By: Tusheti National Park; Lagodekhi National Park; Vashlovani National Park; Tbilisi; Gori.
International Destinations: Armenia; Azerbaijan; Turkey; Russia.

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