Sinaia
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I came to Sinaia for the skiing. Promises of immaculately smooth, crispy slopes pulled me right out of Romania’s capital Bucharest and lured me straight up north to the country’s most elegant ski resort. Elegant yet affordable.
Yes, ladies and gentleman, this might be entirely new information to you (it was to me mere weeks ago), but let me give you the drum: Romania is an excellent winter sport destination! It’s no rocket science… a whole hell of a lotta mountains, and god knows it’s bloody freezing these months: 1+1 = the perfect winter wonderland, hurray! True, it’s rather modest compared to the giants in the Alps and Dolomites: you won't find any multi-dimensional 60+ ski-lift networks in this edge of the world. But then again, neither do you have to pay for it. Skiing and snowboarding in Romania is possible for any kind of budget, even ours.
Yes, ladies and gentleman, this might be entirely new information to you (it was to me mere weeks ago), but let me give you the drum: Romania is an excellent winter sport destination! It’s no rocket science… a whole hell of a lotta mountains, and god knows it’s bloody freezing these months: 1+1 = the perfect winter wonderland, hurray! True, it’s rather modest compared to the giants in the Alps and Dolomites: you won't find any multi-dimensional 60+ ski-lift networks in this edge of the world. But then again, neither do you have to pay for it. Skiing and snowboarding in Romania is possible for any kind of budget, even ours.
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Winter Wonderland
Now, the fact that I have this massive thing for skiing doesn’t necessarily implicate a positive correlation with my skills. In fact, I’m quite goofy on slats. I had plenty of opportunity to improve my technique during available (and already pre-paid) skiing classes in resorts in the French, Swiss and Austrian Alps, but it was all blown to bits due to my massive authority problem. The second one of those overly-tanned instructors started to be critical or, perish the thought, got the nerve to tell me what to do, I was done. Once Günther or Jean-Pierre skied ahead I took another turn, auf Wiedersehen!
Long introduction to underpin the statement that I was not ready for Sinaia’s black slopes. Especially not when considering I didn’t follow a slope to begin with: I thundered almost vertically down a black descend off-piste, exposing myself to the severe avalanche risk I was warned for that day. It certainly wasn’t my intention, but sometimes life just turns out that way (let’s just say Romanian signposts are rather hard to comprehend for foreigners). But fortune favors the bold, even if it was unintentional. How else would I have known the quality of that Instagram-worthy #powderhounds #powdertothepeople #powderlove snow Sinaia is crowned with?! It’s like you’re riding the clouds! Even when I temporarily took my skis off in order to walk down the slope (big cock up) and instantly plummeted 1,5 meters deep into the silky white blanket, I still could only look around me in astonishment and marvel about the excellent conditions of these mountains.
Now, the fact that I have this massive thing for skiing doesn’t necessarily implicate a positive correlation with my skills. In fact, I’m quite goofy on slats. I had plenty of opportunity to improve my technique during available (and already pre-paid) skiing classes in resorts in the French, Swiss and Austrian Alps, but it was all blown to bits due to my massive authority problem. The second one of those overly-tanned instructors started to be critical or, perish the thought, got the nerve to tell me what to do, I was done. Once Günther or Jean-Pierre skied ahead I took another turn, auf Wiedersehen!
Long introduction to underpin the statement that I was not ready for Sinaia’s black slopes. Especially not when considering I didn’t follow a slope to begin with: I thundered almost vertically down a black descend off-piste, exposing myself to the severe avalanche risk I was warned for that day. It certainly wasn’t my intention, but sometimes life just turns out that way (let’s just say Romanian signposts are rather hard to comprehend for foreigners). But fortune favors the bold, even if it was unintentional. How else would I have known the quality of that Instagram-worthy #powderhounds #powdertothepeople #powderlove snow Sinaia is crowned with?! It’s like you’re riding the clouds! Even when I temporarily took my skis off in order to walk down the slope (big cock up) and instantly plummeted 1,5 meters deep into the silky white blanket, I still could only look around me in astonishment and marvel about the excellent conditions of these mountains.
The Gondola Sinaia leads you straight up to heaven!
In fact, the next ride down I went full-Amy (back to black). And then again. In the mix with red, blue, red-red-blue, and repeat. Sinaia certainly has plenty to fill the day with, throwing you back on your couch sore and exhausted, yet still wishing for more.
In fact, the next ride down I went full-Amy (back to black). And then again. In the mix with red, blue, red-red-blue, and repeat. Sinaia certainly has plenty to fill the day with, throwing you back on your couch sore and exhausted, yet still wishing for more.
Click to enlarge
Practical info:
Practical info:
- The ski-lift entrances are reached by bus line T2 (pink – 2 lei).
- There are several lifts available operated by different companies (requiring different passes), but the only one perfectly suitable for skiers and snowboarders is operated by Gondola Sinaia. Not only is this one the fastest and most modern, it contains special outdoor ski- and snowboard carriers. The 1st stop, Cota 1400, brings you to the lower elevations, most suitable for beginners. The second stop at 2103m (Vf. Furnice), however, offers many possibilities for both average and advanced skiers, on prepared slopes as well as off-piste powder. From this highest point you can also climb up to the Mountain Sphinx (weather permitted), an oddly shaped rock known for its legacy of extraterrestrial sightings. Recent prices of the Gondola Sinaia are found here.
- Ski rental is available for 50-60 lei for a full set of skis, boots, skiing poles and a helmet. Quality varies enormously per rental agency, so shop around.
- Food is very cheap on ground level (5 lei for a drink/snack), but logically gets more expensive the higher you go, due to complicated accessibility for distributors. That said, the toilets get cleaner the further up you go (Do not.... I repeat, do not open the door to one of those dixi toilets – photo proof available on request, too graphic to be published here).
Meep Meep Vroom! Adventures by 4x4
Just can’t get enough of the snowscapes? Just dig a bit deeper! Quite literally, if you didn’t bring along your 4 Wheel Drive vehicle, equipped with snow chains. But worry not, there are plenty of locals who will take you for a ride. Quite cheaply so, if I might argue. In my case I joined forces with Excursii Bucegi, who simply offered me the most inclusive deal for the best price of all the tour vendors promptly running into my direction after I made my appearance at the shut down telecabina in Buşteni (closed for the entire winter season without prior notice). In fact, I was quite lucky with this turn of events, as now I got to experience Bucegi Natural Park the bad-ass way! Pumping through meters and meters of snow, swirling around traditional gypsy villages and racing passed virgin white ice lakes. Life doesn’t get much better than this.
Highlight of the day? The Pestera Ialomita Cave! So icy it contains even icicles vertically poking out of the ground!
Just can’t get enough of the snowscapes? Just dig a bit deeper! Quite literally, if you didn’t bring along your 4 Wheel Drive vehicle, equipped with snow chains. But worry not, there are plenty of locals who will take you for a ride. Quite cheaply so, if I might argue. In my case I joined forces with Excursii Bucegi, who simply offered me the most inclusive deal for the best price of all the tour vendors promptly running into my direction after I made my appearance at the shut down telecabina in Buşteni (closed for the entire winter season without prior notice). In fact, I was quite lucky with this turn of events, as now I got to experience Bucegi Natural Park the bad-ass way! Pumping through meters and meters of snow, swirling around traditional gypsy villages and racing passed virgin white ice lakes. Life doesn’t get much better than this.
Highlight of the day? The Pestera Ialomita Cave! So icy it contains even icicles vertically poking out of the ground!
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Step by step: Hike the Bucegi!
Now, this is more of a summer suggestion. Not for Andrei of course, my Couchsurfing host who grew quite accustomed to these Siberian conditions. In fact, after witnessing him flexibly shoving onward on the slippery surface of a thickly ice-covered mountain I’m secretly suspecting some Yeti-family-ties. I’m referring to people like me, who – entirely outside of their natural habitat – provide the full-on Bambi experience when placed in hiking shoes in such wintry contexts. |
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Buşeni – Urlătoarea Route (proper tongue breaker)
Bucegi Natural Park is the prime point of interest for hiking buffs, offering a wide variety of trails catering to all different levels of fitness.
Bucegi Natural Park is the prime point of interest for hiking buffs, offering a wide variety of trails catering to all different levels of fitness.
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The Most Stunning Castle of Romania
Some touristy places have the right to be so. Peleş Caste is one of these places. In fact, it would almost be offensive to visit Sinaia and skip the #1 sight. You will simply do yourself short.
Now you must take into account that I’ve seen an incredible amount of castles in my life. Marble Renaissance palaces submerged in gold with crystal chandeliers, rough medieval fortresses trembling of memories from ancient battles by courageous knights, wildly decorated Moorish manors signifying the elegant resting place of sultans and their harems… Scottish castles. Moroccan castles. French, Dutch, Korean, German, Portuguese, Spanish, Lithuanian, Belgian, Brazilian, Croatian, Greek, Mexican, Slovakian and Turkish castles. So when I say this is something extraordinary, something I’ve never seen before, you’d better take my word for it. The precise woodwork, the incredible eye for detail, the pristine sense of alpine style and, most importantly, the perfect conservation of this cultural landmark, are a few of the many reasons to visit the pearl of Transylvania.
Some touristy places have the right to be so. Peleş Caste is one of these places. In fact, it would almost be offensive to visit Sinaia and skip the #1 sight. You will simply do yourself short.
Now you must take into account that I’ve seen an incredible amount of castles in my life. Marble Renaissance palaces submerged in gold with crystal chandeliers, rough medieval fortresses trembling of memories from ancient battles by courageous knights, wildly decorated Moorish manors signifying the elegant resting place of sultans and their harems… Scottish castles. Moroccan castles. French, Dutch, Korean, German, Portuguese, Spanish, Lithuanian, Belgian, Brazilian, Croatian, Greek, Mexican, Slovakian and Turkish castles. So when I say this is something extraordinary, something I’ve never seen before, you’d better take my word for it. The precise woodwork, the incredible eye for detail, the pristine sense of alpine style and, most importantly, the perfect conservation of this cultural landmark, are a few of the many reasons to visit the pearl of Transylvania.
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The history of the Peleş Castle dates back to 1866, when King Carol I of Romania visited the location and instantly fell in love with the jaw-dropping mountain scenery (can’t blame him!). After the Crown purchased 5km² of land, the construction of the palace and its surrounding auxiliary buildings started in 1873 (to be completed in 1914), following an unconventional design plan combining different features of European styles. The total cost came down to an approximate 16mln lei, which would be $120mln today. Interesting detail: Peleş is the first castle on a global scale fully powered by electricity.
The castle was inhabited by King Carol I and Queen Elizabeth, and was also the birth place of King Carol II (reason to refer to the place as “cradle of the dynasty, cradle of the nation”). After shortly being seized by the communist regime, it was ultimately established a heritage site and opened to the public. Nowadays Peleş Castle receives half a million visitors annually, and you should be one of them.
The castle was inhabited by King Carol I and Queen Elizabeth, and was also the birth place of King Carol II (reason to refer to the place as “cradle of the dynasty, cradle of the nation”). After shortly being seized by the communist regime, it was ultimately established a heritage site and opened to the public. Nowadays Peleş Castle receives half a million visitors annually, and you should be one of them.
It might not be obvious in the photos of the interior (that’s the whole purpose of it), but you’re looking at various secret entrances to hidden passages, disguised as book shelves and closets. Which is why you should treat yourself on the Complete Tour!
Other sights in Sinaia: Sinaia Monastery, Palace Royal Regal.
I came to Sinaia for the skiing. But I got so much more.
Other sights in Sinaia: Sinaia Monastery, Palace Royal Regal.
I came to Sinaia for the skiing. But I got so much more.
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