Balaton
Not in the story-mood? Scroll down for the Quick Budget Fact Overview: an itemized information summary of Balaton! ↓
“I say Hungary you say..?!” BUDAPEST. Eh yeah also, but I am referring to their prime natural destination, flawlessly blending the joys of the outdoors on both land and water with a trace of historical heritage, wellness recuperation and divine wine. Okay, let me give you another hint: It’s the largest lake in entire Central Europe. So let’s go again: “I say Hungary you say..?!” BALATON! “You say..?!” BALATON!!!
That was the kind of energy I was hoping for.
Activities around the Balaton Lake
It’s hard to imagine during times like the present, where the Balaton Lake presents itself as the prime tourist destination of the country attracting crowds of all age groups and backgrounds from all ends of the world... but initially the area was developed as an exclusive resort for the rich and famous, attracted by the medicinal water springs around Balatonfured. Phylloxera turned out to be the prime game changer. This disease destroyed the local grape vines which provided the exquisite wines to the wealthy frequenters, forming a major secondary income flow. Landowners, in their need to maintain financial stability, commenced the built of summer homes to be rented out to the middle class citizens. This was the start of a movement that reached a swift peak in the 1960s and 70s, when government efforts expanded the tourist infrastructure. With a rapid expansion of hotels in all budget groups as well as campsites, the destination came within reach of the ‘ordinary’ working class, as well as foreign tourists... many of which were Eastern and Western Germans, who used the location as a meeting spot for friends and family separted by the Berlin Wall. Major resorts around the lake appeared at Siofok, Balatonfured and Keszthely.
That said, a subdivision is still clearly noticable by geography: Whereas the southside of the lake, with Siofok at its vibrant heart, caters to the sunseeking ravers and beerdrinking pascifists, the north is focused on the outdoorsey bike-hike-and-watersport-devotees. The rivalry is real, I concluded after hearing phrases such as “the only good thing of the south coast is that their view of the north.” In my opinion, this variety forms an extra selling point of this destintion. In the end, it is you who knows best which group of holidaymaker you can be classified as and on which side a better personal experience can be had. Reporting from the north:
That was the kind of energy I was hoping for.
Activities around the Balaton Lake
It’s hard to imagine during times like the present, where the Balaton Lake presents itself as the prime tourist destination of the country attracting crowds of all age groups and backgrounds from all ends of the world... but initially the area was developed as an exclusive resort for the rich and famous, attracted by the medicinal water springs around Balatonfured. Phylloxera turned out to be the prime game changer. This disease destroyed the local grape vines which provided the exquisite wines to the wealthy frequenters, forming a major secondary income flow. Landowners, in their need to maintain financial stability, commenced the built of summer homes to be rented out to the middle class citizens. This was the start of a movement that reached a swift peak in the 1960s and 70s, when government efforts expanded the tourist infrastructure. With a rapid expansion of hotels in all budget groups as well as campsites, the destination came within reach of the ‘ordinary’ working class, as well as foreign tourists... many of which were Eastern and Western Germans, who used the location as a meeting spot for friends and family separted by the Berlin Wall. Major resorts around the lake appeared at Siofok, Balatonfured and Keszthely.
That said, a subdivision is still clearly noticable by geography: Whereas the southside of the lake, with Siofok at its vibrant heart, caters to the sunseeking ravers and beerdrinking pascifists, the north is focused on the outdoorsey bike-hike-and-watersport-devotees. The rivalry is real, I concluded after hearing phrases such as “the only good thing of the south coast is that their view of the north.” In my opinion, this variety forms an extra selling point of this destintion. In the end, it is you who knows best which group of holidaymaker you can be classified as and on which side a better personal experience can be had. Reporting from the north:
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Water Activities
Let’s kick in an open door: You can do watersports at the largest lake of Central Europe. Shocking, I know. And as it’s a freshwater lake, it won’t even hurt your eyes. Swimming, fishing, sailing, stand-up paddle boarding, rowing, jetskiing, kayaking... man, you can even go scubadiving in this however rather shallow lake, made interesting by the activities of thermal cave diving in the neighbouring Lake Heviz or ice diving in winter. Other winter activities include ice skating, sledging and ice-sailing, as the lake tends to freeze over entirely in winter. However, summer, when the water temperatrue reaches a more-than-pleasant 25 °C (77 °F), manifests itself as an expected high season. Keep in mind that sand beaches aren’t natural to the region and most of the coastline consists of grass, rocks and silty sand. Also, not unimportantly: Most of the Balaton’s coastline is privatized and developed, and you have to actually pay a ticket to enjoy what nature has freely given us.
That said, an overview list of the freely accessible beaches:
* read more about this experience in this article in Advanced Diver Magazine.
Besides diving in Lake Heviz, you might also want to consider the (apparently) largest hot curative water like in the world it for a bathing getaway. Both cold and warm springs surge from spring cave aperture at the base of the 38.5 meter deep, funnel-shaped lake.
Let’s kick in an open door: You can do watersports at the largest lake of Central Europe. Shocking, I know. And as it’s a freshwater lake, it won’t even hurt your eyes. Swimming, fishing, sailing, stand-up paddle boarding, rowing, jetskiing, kayaking... man, you can even go scubadiving in this however rather shallow lake, made interesting by the activities of thermal cave diving in the neighbouring Lake Heviz or ice diving in winter. Other winter activities include ice skating, sledging and ice-sailing, as the lake tends to freeze over entirely in winter. However, summer, when the water temperatrue reaches a more-than-pleasant 25 °C (77 °F), manifests itself as an expected high season. Keep in mind that sand beaches aren’t natural to the region and most of the coastline consists of grass, rocks and silty sand. Also, not unimportantly: Most of the Balaton’s coastline is privatized and developed, and you have to actually pay a ticket to enjoy what nature has freely given us.
That said, an overview list of the freely accessible beaches:
- Balatonakarattya: Gumirádli
- Balatonberény: Balatonberény Beach
- Balatonboglár: Sziget Beach, Bólya-köz Beach, Jankovich Beach, Platán Beach, Fiume Beach, Zoltán Kodály Beach
- Balatonfenyves: Pozsony Beach, Central Beach, Csalogány-köz Beach, Balatonfenyves-alsó Beach, Fenyőstrand
- Balatonföldvár: Dog-friendly Beach
- Balatonkenese: Alsóréti Beach
- Balatonkeresztúr: Vitorlás Beach
- Balatonlelle: Western Beach, Szirom-köz, Határ Street Beach, Csöpi-köz.
- Balatonmáriafürdő: Several
- Balatonőszöd: Ligetes Beach
- Balatonszárszó: Móricz Street Beach, Bendegúz Square Beach
- Balatonszemes: Hullám Street Beach, Vigadó Beach, Berzsenyi Street Beach, Central Beach,
- Balatonvilágos: Alsóréti Beach
- Fonyód: Árpád Beach, Fürdő Beach, Báthori Beach, Huszka Street Beach
- Keszthely: Dog Park & Picnic Garden
- Örvényes: Platán Beach (Vadkacsa)
- Siófok: Silver Beach, Újhelyi Beach, Balatonszabadi – Sóstó Beach, Golden Beach
- Szántód: Juhász Gyula Street Beach, Rigó Street Beach
- Tihany: Somosi Beach, Gödrös Beach,
- Zamárdi: Nagystrand, Kiss Ernő Street Beach, Táncsics Street Beach (T-Beach), Keszeg Street Beach, Klapka Street Beach, Gyöngyvirág Street Beach, Jegenye Square Beach
* read more about this experience in this article in Advanced Diver Magazine.
Besides diving in Lake Heviz, you might also want to consider the (apparently) largest hot curative water like in the world it for a bathing getaway. Both cold and warm springs surge from spring cave aperture at the base of the 38.5 meter deep, funnel-shaped lake.
Source
Hiking & Biking
A common mistake, most definitely also made by myself, is to think I can just “walk around the lake” for an afternoon. A quick reality check: that’d be a distance of 200km for you. Great news of course, as that allows for an actual multi-day hike or bike adventure providing a unique opportunity to absorb the wild diversity of the different towns surrounding this body of water. Not to mention the various protected areas making up the Balaton Uplands National Park (a tentative UNESCO World Heritage Site), including the Tihany Peninsula, Pecselyi Basin, Kali Basin, Tapolca Basin, Keszthely Mountains and the Kis-Balaton Wetland. The infrastructure is already laid out for you, as there is a coastal bicycle lane along the entire coastline. Besides the “Big O”, there are of course also many side-routes to explore.
Some inspiration:
Hiking & Biking
A common mistake, most definitely also made by myself, is to think I can just “walk around the lake” for an afternoon. A quick reality check: that’d be a distance of 200km for you. Great news of course, as that allows for an actual multi-day hike or bike adventure providing a unique opportunity to absorb the wild diversity of the different towns surrounding this body of water. Not to mention the various protected areas making up the Balaton Uplands National Park (a tentative UNESCO World Heritage Site), including the Tihany Peninsula, Pecselyi Basin, Kali Basin, Tapolca Basin, Keszthely Mountains and the Kis-Balaton Wetland. The infrastructure is already laid out for you, as there is a coastal bicycle lane along the entire coastline. Besides the “Big O”, there are of course also many side-routes to explore.
Some inspiration:
Besides the coastal trail, which of course also can be hiked, Balaton is an excellent destination for day trails, catering to all levels of fitness. Popular routes include Badacsony 360, the Tihany Loop and the various viewpoint-trails. Explore the interesting shapes of the Tapolca Basin, the Kali Basin and especially the Tihany Peninsula which was formed by volcanic eruptions 8-2.5 mln years ago, whereas unusual basalt columns can be found back on the Badacsony Hill and St. George Hill.
More suggestions can be found on Outdoor Active.
For the more hardcore hikers among us: a section of Hungary’s longest trail, the 1170km-long Blue Trail, passes along the Balaton Lake. Why not knock out the whole thing, if you have the time?
More suggestions can be found on Outdoor Active.
For the more hardcore hikers among us: a section of Hungary’s longest trail, the 1170km-long Blue Trail, passes along the Balaton Lake. Why not knock out the whole thing, if you have the time?
Detailed map here.
Castles & Monuments
The Balaton area knows a long and vivid history aligning with Hungary’s national chronicles (scroll down for the ‘Short History Recap’ section). The territory has been shaped and amended by its prior inhabitants (including the Celts, Romans and Magyars) to utilise the availble natural resources in the form of viticulture, fishery, thermal bathing and basalt mining. Warfare is another element that altered the scenery, as stone castles were constructed on higher plateaus to provide strategic advantage in the struggle against, among others, the Ottoman invaders. Examples of these castles that still can be admired today, if some only in ruins, are the Csobanc Castle of Tapolca and the Szigliget Castle. The baroque Festetics Palace in Keszthely stems from a later epoch, constructed from 1745 onwards by the Counts Festetics, who developed the community by also founding a hospital, school and an extensive internal library made available to students. It currently houses the Helikon Palace Museum.
Remnants of medieval villages can be found in the form of ruined churches dating back to the 13th century, such as the ones to be found in Kővágóörs, Gyulakeszi, Szigliget, Szentbékkálla, Káptalantóti, Aszófő, Mindszentkálla and Tihany (Baratlakasok)*. Tihany also hosts a Benedictine Monastery established in 1055 by King Andrew I of Hungary, called Bences Apatsag. The Fire Tower Tuztorony in Veszprem, built on the ruins of Roman walls, functioned as the northern gate tower within the 13th century town walls. The watchmen manning the tower had the prime job to call the attention of inhabitants to foreign soldiers, strangers and wine caravans heading to the town.
* More modern churches worth checking out include the unusual Holy Spirit Catholic Church in Heviz and Evangelical Church in Siofok. The Water Tower of Siofok is another iconic landmark, dating from more recent times (1912), which is now turned into a tourist experience.
In Balatonfured, interesting historical sights stem from the development of the medicinal water springs at the end of the 17th century (peaking mid-18th century). It was in fact the Benedictine Abbey of Tihany that started building various hotels and accommodation options, bathing houses and wellness facilities, allowing it to grow out to a high-end spa resort attracting even royalty. In the 1860s and 70s the complex was further expanded with a cardiac hospital and cure room.
Castles & Monuments
The Balaton area knows a long and vivid history aligning with Hungary’s national chronicles (scroll down for the ‘Short History Recap’ section). The territory has been shaped and amended by its prior inhabitants (including the Celts, Romans and Magyars) to utilise the availble natural resources in the form of viticulture, fishery, thermal bathing and basalt mining. Warfare is another element that altered the scenery, as stone castles were constructed on higher plateaus to provide strategic advantage in the struggle against, among others, the Ottoman invaders. Examples of these castles that still can be admired today, if some only in ruins, are the Csobanc Castle of Tapolca and the Szigliget Castle. The baroque Festetics Palace in Keszthely stems from a later epoch, constructed from 1745 onwards by the Counts Festetics, who developed the community by also founding a hospital, school and an extensive internal library made available to students. It currently houses the Helikon Palace Museum.
Remnants of medieval villages can be found in the form of ruined churches dating back to the 13th century, such as the ones to be found in Kővágóörs, Gyulakeszi, Szigliget, Szentbékkálla, Káptalantóti, Aszófő, Mindszentkálla and Tihany (Baratlakasok)*. Tihany also hosts a Benedictine Monastery established in 1055 by King Andrew I of Hungary, called Bences Apatsag. The Fire Tower Tuztorony in Veszprem, built on the ruins of Roman walls, functioned as the northern gate tower within the 13th century town walls. The watchmen manning the tower had the prime job to call the attention of inhabitants to foreign soldiers, strangers and wine caravans heading to the town.
* More modern churches worth checking out include the unusual Holy Spirit Catholic Church in Heviz and Evangelical Church in Siofok. The Water Tower of Siofok is another iconic landmark, dating from more recent times (1912), which is now turned into a tourist experience.
In Balatonfured, interesting historical sights stem from the development of the medicinal water springs at the end of the 17th century (peaking mid-18th century). It was in fact the Benedictine Abbey of Tihany that started building various hotels and accommodation options, bathing houses and wellness facilities, allowing it to grow out to a high-end spa resort attracting even royalty. In the 1860s and 70s the complex was further expanded with a cardiac hospital and cure room.
Museums
Not the first go-to activity perhaps, when visiting an outdoors, water-fun destination such as the Balaton Lake... but the place has some excellent museums too! Personally I had the pleasure to visit the Vaszary Villa in Balatonfured, its name finding the origins in Prince Primate and later archbishop Kolos Vaszary who became a regular visitor of the town due to health reasons. This museum pleasantly introduced me to the work of a varied collection of Hungarian artists.
The main museum hub around the Balaton lake is Keszthely, with its Kocsimuzeum (coaches and carriages), Balaton Museum (history and geology), Nostalgia Museum (vintage knickknaks), Medieval Erotic Wax Museum (no comments), the Snail Parliament (construction made of snail shells), the Surber’s Museum of Automatic Musical Instruments & Phonographs, the Georgikan Farm History Museum, as well as the Radio Television Museum. Other museums include the Lavender House (a local specialty) and the Babamuzeum (dolls) in Tihany, the Porcelanium in Herend, the Mineral Museum in Siofok, the Shipping History Visitors Center in Balatonfoldvar, or the Postamuzeum (mail) in Balatonszemes. A free one on the list is the Museum Collection in Heviz, elaborating on the city’s history.
Not the first go-to activity perhaps, when visiting an outdoors, water-fun destination such as the Balaton Lake... but the place has some excellent museums too! Personally I had the pleasure to visit the Vaszary Villa in Balatonfured, its name finding the origins in Prince Primate and later archbishop Kolos Vaszary who became a regular visitor of the town due to health reasons. This museum pleasantly introduced me to the work of a varied collection of Hungarian artists.
The main museum hub around the Balaton lake is Keszthely, with its Kocsimuzeum (coaches and carriages), Balaton Museum (history and geology), Nostalgia Museum (vintage knickknaks), Medieval Erotic Wax Museum (no comments), the Snail Parliament (construction made of snail shells), the Surber’s Museum of Automatic Musical Instruments & Phonographs, the Georgikan Farm History Museum, as well as the Radio Television Museum. Other museums include the Lavender House (a local specialty) and the Babamuzeum (dolls) in Tihany, the Porcelanium in Herend, the Mineral Museum in Siofok, the Shipping History Visitors Center in Balatonfoldvar, or the Postamuzeum (mail) in Balatonszemes. A free one on the list is the Museum Collection in Heviz, elaborating on the city’s history.
Wine & Cuisine
I was lucky enough to be hosted by a group of people with a passion for their national food. Which they consumed with local wine.... while trying some more food. Fortunate enough to be included in that passion, I had the opportunity to sample the absolute maximum amount possible within the limited timeframe I was at the Balaton Lake. Hungarian cuisine immediately stood out for me, as for the first time afer traveling every single country of Eastern Europe, I traced down some actual spice in the food. In fact, I sampled what Hungary claims to be the world’s hottest chili pepper, in which allegedly the Carolina Reaper finds its origins. They claimed they got an even stronger version. I find that rather hard to believe, as my trained taste buds could effortlessly eat away the sauce made of this Hungarian pepper, whereas I have seen footage of chili-eating-contestants severely suffering while attempting to eat the Carolina Reaper which – by the way – also holds the Guinness World Record. That said, I still very much appreciate the right level of picante being at least availabe to my grateful tastebuds within these country borders. Besides my pepper-adventure, I had the pleasure to slide down a Paprikas Csirke (chicken stewed with bell peppers), Kosconya (something strange which looks like a soup, but is in fact a solid pork meat jelly), Porkolt (beef and onion stew) and of course Goulash, in soup-form this time.
Other Balaton specials include the fried ‘Hake’ Fish, Duck, Halasszle (fisherman’s soup), Turos Csusza (dough with pork, cottage cheese and sour cream), Hortobagyi Palacsinta (meat, pepper and bacon-stuffed pancakes) and for dessert Somloi Galushka (chocolate sponge cake with walnut) or Lavender Cookies.
Scroll down to the ‘Budget Bites’ section for more information on typical Hungarian food.
Wine-wise the Balaton got you covered as well. Hungary in general, I must say, as vines were brought into these lands by the Romans and the production has been developing ever since. Even during the Ottoman occupation, which caused the rest of Eastern Europe to severely slow down their wine production due to Islamic rule, Hungary actually managed to create my favorite local wine: the robust-red Bikaver (Bull’s Blood). However, in Balaton it’s in fact the whites that swing the scepter. In the six separate wine areas (out of 22 nationally), including Badacsonyi, Balatonboglar, Balaton-Felvidek, Balatonfured-Csopak, Nagy-Somlo and Zala, it’s the volcanic rock and micro-climate creating considerable full-bodiedness, acidic and peppery whites. The most famous variety of the region is Olaszrizling.
The best time to try the entire spectrum is during wine events, such as the Badacsonyi Wine Week / Badcasonyi Bor7, Balaton Wine & Gourmet and the Balatonfured Wine Weeks.
I was lucky enough to be hosted by a group of people with a passion for their national food. Which they consumed with local wine.... while trying some more food. Fortunate enough to be included in that passion, I had the opportunity to sample the absolute maximum amount possible within the limited timeframe I was at the Balaton Lake. Hungarian cuisine immediately stood out for me, as for the first time afer traveling every single country of Eastern Europe, I traced down some actual spice in the food. In fact, I sampled what Hungary claims to be the world’s hottest chili pepper, in which allegedly the Carolina Reaper finds its origins. They claimed they got an even stronger version. I find that rather hard to believe, as my trained taste buds could effortlessly eat away the sauce made of this Hungarian pepper, whereas I have seen footage of chili-eating-contestants severely suffering while attempting to eat the Carolina Reaper which – by the way – also holds the Guinness World Record. That said, I still very much appreciate the right level of picante being at least availabe to my grateful tastebuds within these country borders. Besides my pepper-adventure, I had the pleasure to slide down a Paprikas Csirke (chicken stewed with bell peppers), Kosconya (something strange which looks like a soup, but is in fact a solid pork meat jelly), Porkolt (beef and onion stew) and of course Goulash, in soup-form this time.
Other Balaton specials include the fried ‘Hake’ Fish, Duck, Halasszle (fisherman’s soup), Turos Csusza (dough with pork, cottage cheese and sour cream), Hortobagyi Palacsinta (meat, pepper and bacon-stuffed pancakes) and for dessert Somloi Galushka (chocolate sponge cake with walnut) or Lavender Cookies.
Scroll down to the ‘Budget Bites’ section for more information on typical Hungarian food.
Wine-wise the Balaton got you covered as well. Hungary in general, I must say, as vines were brought into these lands by the Romans and the production has been developing ever since. Even during the Ottoman occupation, which caused the rest of Eastern Europe to severely slow down their wine production due to Islamic rule, Hungary actually managed to create my favorite local wine: the robust-red Bikaver (Bull’s Blood). However, in Balaton it’s in fact the whites that swing the scepter. In the six separate wine areas (out of 22 nationally), including Badacsonyi, Balatonboglar, Balaton-Felvidek, Balatonfured-Csopak, Nagy-Somlo and Zala, it’s the volcanic rock and micro-climate creating considerable full-bodiedness, acidic and peppery whites. The most famous variety of the region is Olaszrizling.
The best time to try the entire spectrum is during wine events, such as the Badacsonyi Wine Week / Badcasonyi Bor7, Balaton Wine & Gourmet and the Balatonfured Wine Weeks.
Parties & Festivals
Talking about events, Balaton transforms into a bustling hub of music, culture and festivals during spring and summer time, hosting a variety of paid and even several free celebrations. Especially the enthusiasts of electronic music are served at their beck and call, with events such as the famous Balaton Sound , Alkototabor and B.My.Lake. For a more diverse musical pallet, one can attend Veszprem Fest, Paloznak Jazz Picnic, Strand Festival or modern-hippie Everness Festival. Free events include Babel Sound, Salfoldi Dalfold as well as the Veszprem Street Music Festival.
Don’t want to be tied to certain festival dates? Head to Siofiok, where they party non-stop throughout the entire summer.
Talking about events, Balaton transforms into a bustling hub of music, culture and festivals during spring and summer time, hosting a variety of paid and even several free celebrations. Especially the enthusiasts of electronic music are served at their beck and call, with events such as the famous Balaton Sound , Alkototabor and B.My.Lake. For a more diverse musical pallet, one can attend Veszprem Fest, Paloznak Jazz Picnic, Strand Festival or modern-hippie Everness Festival. Free events include Babel Sound, Salfoldi Dalfold as well as the Veszprem Street Music Festival.
Don’t want to be tied to certain festival dates? Head to Siofiok, where they party non-stop throughout the entire summer.
Quick Budget Fact Overview
Hungary Facts
- Capital: Budapest
- Language: Hungarian
- Population: ± 9.7 mln
- Sq km: ± 93,025 km²
- Currency: Forint (Ft -HUF)
- Electricity Outlet: C & F / 230 V / 50 Hz. Check here.
- Country Code Phone: +36
- Emergency Phone: 112 (general), 104 (ambulance), 105 (fire), 107 (police)
- Visa: Hungary is a part of the EU and Schengen Area. Find more info about Schengen visas here. Easy applications can be arranged via here.
- Vaccinations: None
- Climate: Warm Summer Continental (Dfb)
- High season: Summer
Short History Recap
9th century: Magyars under Prince Arpad settle Danube plain. 1000: Stephen I (descendant of Arpad) recognized by pope as first Christian king of Hungary → expands Hungarian control over Carpathian basin. 1241-’42: Mongol invasion devastates large parts of Hungary. 1342-’82: Reign of Louis the Great (annexes Dalmatia). 1456: Defeating Ottoman army at Siege of Belgrade. 1526: Ottomans defeats Hungarian forces at Battle of Mohacs → establishing control over most of the country. 1699: Austrian Habsburgs under Leopold I expel Turks. 1848-’49: Uprising against Habsburg rule. 1867: Hungary becomes equal partner in Austro-Hungarian Empire. 1918: Empire broken up at end of WWI → Hungarian Republic is proclaimed following a revolution. 1919: Communists (under Bela Kun) → war on Czechoslovakia and Romania. ’20: Treaty of Trianon → Entente powers award more than 2/3 of Hungarian territory to Czechoslovakia, Romania and Yugoslavia → 1/3 of native Hungarian speakers live now outside the country. ’38: Munich Agreement → Hungary regains some territory. ’39: Hungary joins Anti-Comintern Pact of Germany, Japan and Italy, and withdraws from League of Nations. ’40: With the encouragement of Nazi Germany, Hungary regains northern Transylvania from Romania. ’41: Allies with Nazi Germany. ’44: Hungarian Nazis seize power. Jews and gypsies are deported to death camps. ’45: Soviet forces drive the Germans out of Hungary. New communist rule. Mass terror. ’56: Uprising against Soviet domination suppressed. ’68: New Economic Mechanism brings elements of capitalism. ’89: Communism dismantled → multi-party democracy. ’97: Referendum endorses joining Nato, which happens in 1999. 2004: Hungary joins EU. ’08: Hungary is badly hit by the global financial crisis. International Monetary Fund, EU and World Bank grant rescue package worth 20bn euros. ’10: Law allowing ethnic Hungarians living abroad to apply for Hungarian citizenship. ’12: EU suspends aid payments to Hungary because of budget deficit.
FREE Sights / Activities
PAID Sights / Activities
Evening Entertainment
- Sights: Baratlakasok (Tihany), Bences Apatsag (Tihany), Csobanc Castle (Tapolca), Fire Tower Tuztorony (Veszprem), Holy Spirit Catholic Church (Heviz), Evangelical Church (Siofok).
- Museums: Museum Collection (Heviz),
- Hikes / Nature: Lake Cave (Tapolca), Malom Lake (Tapolca), Ortorony Lookout Tower (Tihany), Szep Lookout (Balatongyorok), Sphere Lookout (Balatonboglar), Malom Lake (Tapolca). Most beaches are privatized and ticketed. Check the article for an overview of the free beaches around the Balaton.
- Most recommended towns: Tihany, Balatonfured, Keszthely, Tapolca.
PAID Sights / Activities
- Sights: Festetics Palace (Keszthely), Szigliget Castle (Szigliget), Water Tower (Siofok).
- Museums: Vaszary Villa (Balatonfured), Kocsimuzeum (Keszthely), Balaton Museum (Keszthely), Nostalgia Museum (Keszthely), Medieval Erotic Wax Museum (Keszthely), Snail Parliament (Keszthely), Surber’s Museum of Automatic Musical Instruments & Phonographs (Keszthely), Georgikan Farm History Museum (Keszthely), Radio Televizion Museum (Keszthely), Herend Porcelanium (Herend), Shipping History Visitors Center (Balatonfoldvar), Postamuzeum (Balatonszemes), Lavender House (Tihany), Babamuzeum (Tihany), Mineral Museum (Siofok).
- Hikes / Nature: Thermal Lake (Heviz).
- Other: Hiking, Biking, Watersports, Folly Arboretum & Winery (Badacsonyors), Csendes Dulo Szolobirtok Winery (Badacsonyors), Nemeth Pince Winery (Badacsonytomaj), Borbelz Csaladi Pinceszet Winery (Badacsonytomaj), Fata Cellar (Badacsonytamaj), Konyari Pinceszet Winery (Balatonlelle), Trio Pine Winery (Tapolca), Csobanci Winery (Tapolca), Galerius Elmenyfurdo es Wellness Kozpont (Siofok), Spa Heviz (Heviz), Annagora Aquapark (Balatonfured).
Evening Entertainment
- Nightlife Areas: The most vivid bars at the Balaton Lake can be found in the close proximity of the coastline. Siofok is known as the ‘nightlife’ destinations of the Balaton Lake.
- Theatres: Balaton Szinhaz (Keszthely), Bujtor Istvan Open Air Theater (Tihany), Csukas Theater (Balatonszarszo), Kultkikoto (Balatonfoldvar), Veszprem Petofi Theater (Veszprem), Nemzeti Szinter (Taliandorogd).
Photo by Miles Watson Photography.
Budget Bites
Sleep Cheap
Budget Bites
- Supermarkets: Goris has some “bigger” supermarkets such as Ararat Supermarket, although most are corner stores. In Tatev and Tandzaver you can only find small corner stores.
- Local Dishes: Khorovats (BBQ); Tolma (dolma, rice/meat in wine leaves); Harissa (ground wheat / pulled meat porridge); Qyufta / Kufta (meatballs); Tjvjik (beef / lamb liver); Arishta (thick noodles); Spas / Tanov Apur (yoghurt soup); Khash (beef broth); Khashlama (lamb veg stew); Ghapama (pumpkin with minced meat, boiled rice, nuts, dried fruits); Jingyalov Hats (greens in flatbread); Aveluk Salad (Armenian wild sorrel with pomegranate seeds, garlic, oil, and walnuts); Tatar Boraki(yoghurt pasta); Basturma (dried beef tenderloin); Panrkhash (boiled cheese/butter/onions); Potchapur (bean onion soup with meat); Gata (sweet vanilla bread); Dabgadz Banir Boerag (flaky puff pastries filled with cheeses); Topik (chickpea dumplings); Lavash (flatbread); Manti (tiny little boats of dough, filled with meat); Shashlik / Kebab (meat skewers); Itch / Eech (bulgur salad); Kchuch (meat and vegetable stew / soup); Vospov Kofte (lentil kofte); Ishkhan (trout); Pelmeni (Russian dumplings).
- The Veg Situation: Going veg is rather complicated in Armenia, as the local kitchen is very meat- and cheese-centred. On top of that, refusing food that’s offered by the generous locals can be taken as an insult. However, where there’s a will there’s a way. Find all veg-friendly in this destination here. https://www.happycow.net/asia/armenia Local veg dishes (description above): Pasuc Tolma (vegan); Arishta (vegan); Spas / Tanov Apur; Jingyalov Hats; Aveluk Salad (vegan); Tatar Boraki; Panrkhash; Gata; Dabgadz Banir Boerag; Topik (vegan); Lavash (vegan); Itch / Eech (vegan); Vospov Kofte (vegan); Mshosh (vegan - lentils/onions/walnuts/apricots); Ailazan (vegan - stew).
- National Drink: Vodka (oghi); Cognac; Wine; Beer.
Sleep Cheap
- Hostels / Hotels: Whereas Armenia is quite a cheap destination (depending on where you’re coming from) with relatively low costs of food, transportation and touristic attractions, you’re likely to spend the most of your travel budget on accommodation. Ho(s)tel prices aren’t outrageous, but generally a bit pricier than in Georgia or Iran. However, in homestays and guesthouses in the southern countryside you’ll be often treated on free meals, coffee and snacks as a general gesture of hospitality, so you can save some expenses there. Always re-confirm your booking per phone or whatsapp, as sometimes a property doesn’t have space for you at all, even though they’re accepting bookings. It also (rarely) happens that you’re given a different (worse) room than booked, or a different (higher) price is suddenly quoted. Payment is generally in cash. I personally found the best deals on Booking.com. They have the biggest selection, are transparent about the final price and have an efficient search engine tailored to your specific needs (cheapest first!). If you use it often enough, Genius-discounts are applied. Agoda is often not transparent about prices, adding a lot of additional costs in the last booking-step. Opodo is another decent option. I don’t recommend Air BnB in Armenia, as it’s not only much more expensive, but often properties accept bookings but aren’t available at all… and as it’s prepaid, the owner has to cancel the booking for you to get your money back (try to explain that in Armenian / Russian). Writer’s choice: In Goris I stayed at the very affordable Verishen Guesthouse, where we received one of the best hospitality in entire Armenia. It is in Verishen, a few km away from Goris, but that didn’t personally bother me. In Tatev I stayed at Vazken, which was a homestay where we received a similar high level of hospitality. It is on walking distance from the Tatev Monastery. In Tandzaver we Couchsurfed at Tandzaver Eco Camping, which provides wooden pods on the hills overlooking the mountains. Quite the experience!
- Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost (unless you put a third-world country as homebase), but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate review explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored). Unfortunately, the active Couchsurfing community is quite limited in Armenia. During a month’s time I landed two stays, but I noticed that most profile’s are inactive or hosts live in with their parents and therefore cannot host.
- Housesitting: is an amazing exchange allowing you to stay short- or long-term in somebody’s house, while looking after their house and pets. There are many different websites, most of them paid… but once you landed a sit, the subscription fee is pays itself back quickly. The main housesitting site is Trusted Housesitters.
- Wild Camping: is entirely legal in Armenia. Of course, make sure to not litter and be careful in choosing your camping location, as bears and wolves are common in many natural areas of Armenia (never ever keep food inside of your tent and cook far away from your camping spot). Steer clear of shepherd’s territories, as the dogs guarding the cattle can be quite aggressive. When camping around towns and villages: Armenians are incredibly hospitable, and if you ask permission to camp on their land they’ll probably treat you on food and drinks.
Mama Said
Transport
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- Safety: Hungary has a relatively low crime rate. As always, use your common sense like everywhere else. Don’t walk alone in remote areas after sunset and follow your instinct when entering certain neighbourhoods further away from the centre. Don’t leave valuables visibly in your car.
- Tap Water: is drinkable.
- Ethics: Boycott zoos like Veszprem Zoo where animals are held in captivity out of their natural habitat.
- The best credit/debit card for traveling is Wise, as they use the live conversion rates with minimal exchange fees. Wise also has the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. You can simply create a Forint-wallet and all expenses in Hungary will be paid directly out of that wallet. Revolut is comparable, but they have higher exchange fees in the weekend and less wallet-options. Also, you can only wire money to Revolut in the currency you opened the account with, whereas Wise has IBAN’s from a wide variety of currencies, so you don’t have to pay a double exchange fee.
- Simcard: Hungary is part of the EU, so if you already have a European sim it will work here as well. However, depending on where you’re from, it is likely much cheaper to buy a temporary prepaid sim in Hungary, which is available at the phone stores, convenience stores or (more expensive) at the airport. Phone companies include Vodafone, T-Mobile, Yettel and Airalo (e-sim). Overall, Yettel has the cheapest couple-of-bucks-deals that also last for 30 days, which takes away the stress of continuously having to top up again in a foreign language.
Transport
- Walking: The towns around the Balaton Lake are rather small, and all is within walking distance. However, don’t think you can just ‘stroll around the entire Balaton Lake’ within a day… that would be a distance of 200km.
- Cycling: There is a cycle lane around the entire Balaton Lake. In order to truly experience the lake area, it is a recommended endeavour. However, keep in mind that it is 200km, which would equal about 3 days, depending on your level of fitness. You will need to find accommodation along the way.
- City Buses / Tram / Metro: The cities around the Balaton Lake are connected by bus. As schedules vary per season, it is easiest to enquire about the departure time a day ahead at any town’s main bus station. Buses stop on all bus stops along the route.
- Taxi / Uber: The local taxi app is called Bolt. Download app here.
- Intercity Buses: Most towns around the Balaton Lake have their own main bus station for local and intercity travel. These buses can also be halted down at the bus stops along the route. Siofok also has a Flixbus station.
- Train: The train network reaches passed the entire south-side of the like (where Siofok is located). On the north side it only goes as far as Balatonfured. From there you have to continue westwards by bus. Train ticket prices are very low and can be simply bought at the ticket office in the train station. More info on Eurail and Interrrail tickets here.
- Car Rental: I only recommend car rental to stress-free and confident drivers. The local traffic situation might not be what you’re used to at home. Budapest Airport is one of the cheapest pick-up places with online deals as low as EUR 10 a day.
- Airport: Heviz-Balaton Airport (SOB), Budapest Airport (BUD).
- Hitchhiking: is relatively safe in Hungary and people are very willing to help out a stranger. Keep into account that English is mainly spoken by the younger generation, and German is more common than English.
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