Svaneti | Budget Bucket List

Svaneti (Mestia)

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It’s unlikely one can bring up the topic “hiking in Georgia” whilst ignoring Svaneti National Park as an option. This corner of the country, with Mestia as its thriving tourist hub, forms the unanimous sweetheart of the southern Caucasus. Its rugged ridges, mighty glaciers and authentic villages are embellished by iconic, medieval defensive towers and forts, which are understandably adopted in the UNESCO World Heritage List. Preserved by its century long isolation, a visit to Svaneti introduces any lucky visitor not only to a sublime slice of one of the world’s most renowned mountain chains, but also to a traditional culture that defines the very core of Georgia.

The postcard-perfect outlay of the villages, as well as the national park these are wrapped into, provides the ideal backdrop of a hike. Outdoor enthusiasts can find a true challenge in the region, considering 4 of the 10 highest peaks of the Caucasus are located right here… including Mount Shkhara, Georgia’s highest! Due to its sheer variety, walks for all levels of fitness sprout from its main hubs, which makes this an attractive outdoor destination for any traveler.

Opening photo and this photo by Miles Watson Photography.

Day Hikes

Keep in mind that Svaneti’s hiking season flourishes in summer, with July to September being the most suitable period. In other times of the year, the high amount of snow may block the access to the trails, and also avalanches can be a severe concern. In these periods, only well-experienced hikers with special equipment (potentially accompanied by mountain guides) will be able to complete the mentioned routes.

Koruldi Lakes

Start & End Point: Mestia (it’s possible to take a taxi up until the cross) – Mazeri, in either direction. It’s easiest to take a cab or hitchhike to Mazeri in the morning and hike back to Mestia.
Length: 20km return/ difficult (6-9hrs return).
Elevation Gain: 1500m.
GPS: Here!

The most popular day hike of Mestia is undoubtedly the one leading to the alpine lakes of Koruldi. This hike balances the right amount of scenic panoramas with a challenge, offering a clear reward to look forward to: stellar views over Mount Ushba (Svaneti’s highest) and the surrounding Caucasus chain. That said, this trail also has some clear downsides: it follows a road most of the time and the lakes themselves are remarkably underwhelming. In case you’re going through an off-day, fitness-wise: it is possible to only walk half-way until the Mestia Cross on the Tshakazagari Mountain… or to take a cab to this point and only complete the second half of the hike. Likewise, for trained hikers it’s tempting to continue passed the lakes, onto the northern Koruldi Ridge, to reach even more impressive viewpoints at a 3328m height.

--> This hike almost completely overlaps with the Guli Pass Trail, which is much harder… but offers better views!

Chkhuti Ridge

Start & End Point: Mestia.
Length: 23km roundtrip (up and down) / difficult.
Elevation Gain: 1900m.
GPS: here!

I knew this was not going to be an easy hike, if only for the sheer elevation gain, but I was ensured that it was by all means going to top the hyped Koruldi Lakes hike: No roads, no cow shit and no people! Fair enough, in order to reach the trail from downtown Mestia you do have to hike 3km on dirt road, but once you get passed that the expectations are definitely met. It kicks off rather mellow, which is highly necessary as you need to spare your strengths for an ongoing circus of ridiculously steep and never-ever-ending ascends… but once you get to the narrow ridge (the second one – they first present you a very doable pre-ridge to make you feel like it’s going to be easy, to subsequently destroy you with the actual ridge), reality seems to make way for your wildest dreams. A wide open 360-view above the clouds, crisp silent tranquillity and a colorful carpet of wildflowers stretching out all around you to embellish your very presence. It’s a dream you still have to properly work for to keep it going though, as until the three stone cairns, built at a 3100m height by hunters from the Lakhiri village, it’s a continuous climb up without much relief. This trail has absolutely no chill, but it keeps rewarding you the entire way through…

…as long as you stay faithful to it. Listen to me: DO NOT follow the Maps.me trail down towards Lakhiri village, unlike several popular hiking blogs suggest. The people who wrote that didn’t actually attempt it. They didn’t roll down this quickly vanishing “trail” twisting their ankles, unable to walk up again due to the high hibernation and crumbling stones disappearing under their feet. They didn’t have to follow the streams and climb down actual slippery waterfalls hoping to get back to civilization, only to get stranded above high cliffs and dangerous drop-offs instead. They didn’t scramble on the side of a mountain for 5 extra hours (after already having walked 4,5) holding on for dear life, after sending their loved ones the location where they might have to send the rescue team to (to find me or my body). I’m an experienced hiker and at that point I was fulltime traveling for 8 years straight. I’ve been through shit. Sure, due to my knowledge of the mountains and basic survival skills I managed to get myself out of this situation, eventually… but I realize many won’t be able to. This was a highly troublesome experience to me, from which I physically and mentally needed to recover. Let this please be a warning to anyone playing with the thought to “make a nice loop of it.”

--> It overlaps for a large chunk with the Adishi Village Trail. A trail that didn't quite grab my interest due to the large chunk on a car-road.

Adishi Village Trail

Start & End Point: Mestia – Adishi (either direction).
Length: 17km / difficult.

This trail is fairly similar to the Chkhuti Ridge Trail, but stays in lower elevation and focuses on the villages of the Mulakhi community instead of the natural surroundings per se. By following this route, you have the opportunity to explore the municipalities of Zardlashi, Murshkeli, Ghvebra, Artskheli, Lakhiri, Zhamushi, Tcholashi, Majvdieri, Chvabiani, Tsaldashi and Zhabeshi. A clear downside, however, is the big chunks of dirt and asphalt road this route entails.

--> This hike is very similar to the first days of the multi-day Mestia-Ushguli trek.

Chalaadi Glacier

Start & End Point: Mestia or (much better) the parking lot next to the glacier. Hitchhiking is most doable in the early morning, when many tourists head into that direction for a short half-day trip.
Length: 24km return from Mestia / easy.
Elevation Gain: 679m.
GPS: here!

It’s one of the most crowded walks around Mestia and it really shouldn’t be. Not only does it force broke backpackers to walk about 80% of the 24km up-and-down on a mind-numbing road along a hydropower dam in the making, the glacier itself doesn’t even qualify as Georgia’s best of the sort. The incredible number of visitors clogging the trail, attracted by its low level of difficulty, takes away the rest of the fun. Sure, there are some interesting forest stretches and it’s never a punishment to see a glacier, in whatever shape… but there’s so much else to see in Mestia, that this one is hardly worth your time and effort.

Zuruldi Ridge / Mentashi Transmitter Hike

Start & End Point: Mestia or at the last stop of the Hatsvali Cable Car at the Zuruldi Ridge (it doesn’t work on rainy or foggy weather – you have to change lines at the middle station).
Length: 6km roundtrip (when taken the cable car – otherwise it’s another 9km up 1-way) / easy.
Elevation Gain: 390m.
GPS: Here!

A hike to a… transmitter. It doesn’t sound scenic and it indeed is quite the eyesore. That said, this endeavour offers fairly epic views on the Zuruldi Massif, the Enguri River Valley and Mount Ushba. Add to that the relative easiness of the stretch (especially if you hop on the Hatsvali Cable Car) and it makes for a pretty nice “snack” in between. However, if you’re up for it, it’s possible to continue down towards the Tsvirmi village, as described below.

Enguri Valley

Start & End Point: Mestia – Tsvirmi. If you continue 2km to the main road you can score a taxi or hitchhike from traffic coming back from Ushguli (usually before 4PM).
Length: 16.5km / easy.
Elevation Gain: 1174m.
GPS: Here!

This hike is very similar to the above described Zuruldi Ridge Hike, with the variation being the Enguri Valley crossing along the river. It’s arguable less attractive, as it follows a concrete road towards Heskhili village as well as some dirt roads towards the Ieli and Tsvirmi villages… but it allows you to discover some new areas of Svaneti.

Latpari Pass

Start & End Point: Mestia – Chvelpi (from there, a morning-mashrutka leaves for Kutaisi).
Length: 22.5km / difficult. Some people split it up in 2 days.
Elevation Gain: 1264m up, 2204m down.

This trek offers a beautiful opportunity to move from Upper to Lower Svaneti (instead of driving down the road) while covering the ridge, Gorvashi Pass and Latpari Pass. On clear days, there are pleasant views all around, with proximity to Mount Gvibari. A downside is the dirt-track descent towards Chvelpi, which is rather uninspired and quite taxing on the legs and knees. I haven’t done this hike myself, but this blog provides a detailed description of two weathered travelers who did.

Guli Pass Hike

Start & End Point: Mazeri - Mestia or the other way around. There’s no public transport to/from Mazeri (the closest mashrutka stops 7km away from the trailhead), so most hikers take a taxi in the morning and hike back to Mestia.
Length: 21km / difficult.
Elevation Gain: 1579m up, 1819m down.
GPS: Here!

Another rather demanding hike, including a heavy ascent (1400m over 8km) but an even more devastating descent. Nevertheless, many trekkers gladly make the effort for the fantastic views from the Guli Pass and the overall rewarding challenge. More detailed info here.

--> Alternatively, it’s possible to turn this hike into a loop and continue towards the high Laskhkvid pastures to ultimately climb up to Mount Gul (2926m), which offers open views on Mount Ushba.

--> This hike entails Day 4-5 of the below described Chuberi-Mestia multi-day trek. It also forms a part of the multi-country Transcaucasian Trail.

Shdugra Waterfall & Ushba Glacier

Start & End Point: Mazeri. You’ll pass the Russian border area, so it’s recommended to bring a passport.
Length: 17km roundtrip to the waterfall, 22km incl. the glacier / easy to waterfall, hard to glacier. The section towards the glacier has very complicated terrain and accidents due to falling rocks have happened here.
Elevation Gain: 1123m.
GPS: Here!

Yes, I hear you: You have seen enough waterfalls during your time in Georgia… but what about the country’s largest? That must be worth something, especially when it includes the eye-pleasing Dolra Valley, a glacier and views on mountains such as the Ushba, Shelda and Mazeri. The hike towards the waterfall itself is of low difficulty, but reaching the Ushba Glacier (600m higher) adds some extra challenge to the mix.

Latali – Mkheri Church Trek

Start & End Point: Lenashi (hiking signpost). There is no public transportation into this direction, so your options are a taxi or hitchhiking. Keep in mind that Latali is a community name for several places combined, and many maps won’t represent it. Search for Lenashi instead. It’s possible to walk back to Mestia.
Length: 17.2km roundtrip / moderate.
Elevation Gain: 1471m.

This attractive forest walk kicks off in Latali and leads you right above the treeline. From there, the trail continues through attractive alpine pastures, granting panoramas reaching as far as Mount Laila and Gvadarashi. The church is an extra bonus, but not an end-goal in itself.

Multi-Day Hikes

Are you blessed with pleasant weather, a couple of days on your hands and a fresh burst of energy? Why not immerge in the high heights of the Caucasus and stay on the trail for a couple of days?! Svaneti National Park offers several multi-day trails, most of them forming a part of the famous multi-country megatrail: The Transcaucasian Trail.

Mestia – Ushguli Trek

Start & End Point: Mestia – Ushguli.
Length: 55-60km / easy (2-4 days).
Elevation Gain: 3400m up, 2700m down.
GPS: Here!

If the Koruldi Lakes route forms the most well-traversed day hike of the region, the Mestia-Ushguli trek definitely takes the crown of the multi-day trails. Why? For the same reason: It’s not that hard, so basically anyone can do it. Plus, the ample supply of guesthouses creates the opportunity of leaving your tent and heavy camping gear at home. For me, these are all factors making a hike less attractive… I like a challenge, I love camping when in the outdoors and I certainly do not want to be anywhere near the crowds this attracts… BUT it might be exactly what some are looking for.

The most common itinerary, which is very easy-paced, is as follows:

Day 1: Mestia – Chvabiani or Zhabeshi (15-16km).
Day 2: Chvabiani – Adishi (12.5km, biggest climb) – you can choose the higher, or less scenic but easier lower route towards Adishi.
Day 3: Adishi – Iprali (17-19km), incl. the Adishi Glacier and Chkhunderi Pass. There’s a river crossing at the Adishchala River.
Day 4: Iprali – Ushguli (12.5km). Instead of the road, it’s possible to follow the forested hillside trail high above the valley, which eventually connects back to the road at the end.

-> If you’re fit enough: Day 1&2 can be morphed into 1 day, and the same goes for day 3&4.

--> Alternative route: via Tsvirmi Village.

Chuberi – Mestia Trek

Start & End Point: Chuberi – Mestia.
Length: 80-90km / difficult (4-5 days).
Elevation Gain: 6550m up, 5900m down.
GPS: Here! (Chuberi to Ushguli)

The Transcaucasian Trail stretch preceding the hyped Mestia-Ushguli-stretch is considerably less trafficked… and therefore more popular among those weathered hikers seeking that true, remote outdoor experience. Not only to steer clear from the masses, but also to find a challenge entirely absent in the Ushguli endeavour. It surpasses no less than three mountain passes with an elevation gain almost double the other one, as well as a longer distance.

Suggested itinerary, keeping the high difficulty into account:

Day 1: Chuberi – Utviri Pass (17km)
Day 2: Utviri Pas – Nakra (12 km).
Day 3: Nakra – Etseri (21km).
Day 4: Etseri – Mazeri (14.5km) or straight on to Mestia (an extra 21km).

Matskhvarishi - Lentekhi Trek

Start & End Point: Matskhvarishi – Lentekhi.
Length: 43.5km / intermediate to difficult (2-3 days).
Elevation Gain: 3842m up / 4426m down.
GPS: Here!

Beautiful, challenging and diverse are all words describing this multi-day trek. On this adventure you’ll pass churches, lookout points and you’ll mount the snowy Chkeeru Peak (3587). It sounds like a lot, but when broken into short chapters, it’s doable for also the not-too-fit among us.

Suggested itinerary:

Day 1: Matskhvarishi – Campsite 4km after St Michael Church (11.5km). You can continue, but the next camping territory is located after the Mount Chkeeru Peak (3587m), namely in the Laskadura Gorge. So make sure you have enough time and energy to reach this.
Day 2: Campsite – Laskadura Gorge / Shepherd’s Hut (11km).
Day 3: Laskaduri Gorge – Lentekhi (21km).

How to get to Mestia?

The journey to Mestia is a pretty straightforward one: You have to get to the pleasant town of Zugdidi (and preferably allow for a few hours for further exploration here) and from there grab a “mashrutka” to Mestia. Unfortunately, the popularity of this destination has driven the prices rather steeply up… unlike, for example, transport to Kazbegi, which remained surprisingly cheap (for now!). From personal experience I can confirm that hitchhiking is however pretty straightforward on this stretch and you’re likely to promptly get a ride as all traffic has to follow one and the same road. There’s no need to bring supplies to Mestia, as (unlike Tusheti) it’s a well-serviced town with plenty of supermarkets and even outdoor shops, be it a tad more expensive than elsewhere in Georgia.

Quick Budget Fact Overview

Georgia Facts

Capital: Tbilisi
Language: Georgian (separate alphabet)
Population: ± 3.7 mln (Omalo: ± 40, in season)
Sq km: ± 69,700 (Tusheti: ± 825)
Currency: Lari (ლ )
Electricity Outlet: C & F / 220 V / 50 Hz. Check here.
Country Code Phone: +995 (331)
Emergency Phone: 113 (ambulance), 111 (fire), 122 (police)
Visa: Check out the visa requirements here.
Climate: Subarctic (Dfc)
High season: ± May/Jun – Sep (varying per year, depending on road opening)

Short History Recap

6200BC - 4000BC: Shulaveri (late Neolithic/Eneolithic culture). 4000BC – 2200BC: Trialeti culture. 3400BC - 2000BC: Kura-Araxes culture. 2500BC - 760BC: Diauehi: Coalition of tribes in north-eastern Anatolia. 1200BC - 600BC: Colchian culture (late Bronze / Iron Age). 700BC: Cimmerians & Scythians invade Georgia + Caucasus. Ancient Greek / Byzantine colonization of Black Sea. 600 BC: Kingdom of Colchis appears (west): Earliest Georgian formation. 302BC: Kingdom of Iberia founded (east). 284BC: Georgian alphabet created. 90BC: Artaxiad Dynasty. 65 BC: Pompey the Great makes Kingdom of Colchis a Roman province. 270: Anti-Roman uprising. 284: Chosroid Dynasty. Around 319: King Mirian III of Iberia declares Christianity as official religion. 5th Century: Fighting against Persian domination. 526-532: Iberian War. 541-562: Lazic War. 627: Perso-Turkic War: Tbilisi sacked by Turks and Byzantines. 654: Arabs enter. 1000: Bagrat III of Georgia founds Kingdom of Georgia. 1040: Seljuk Turks invade --> in 1121 defeated at Battle of Didgori. 1204: Queen Tamar (1184-1213 – 1st female ruler) conquers Black Coast of Byzantine Empire --> Empire of Trebizond created. 1400: Conqueros Timur (Turco-Mongol) invades / destroys / takes 60,000 as slaves to Timurid Empire. 1783: Treaty of Georgievsk --> Katli-Kakheti protectorate of Russia. ’95: Iranian invasion. 1801-04: Most of current Georgia part of the Russian Empire. ’79: Stalin born in Gori. 1918: Independent Georgian state. ’21: Red Army invades (Bolsheviks) à Georgia absorbed into Soviet Union (SU). Independence activists suppressed / killed. ’89: Demands for more autonomy in South Ossetia (SO) --> violent clashes. ‘ 91: Independence from SU declared. Georgian Civil War. SO votes in favour of independence. War in Abkhazia between Georgian government troops and separatist forces --> ’93: Abkhazian drives Georgian troops out. ’94: Ceasefire agreement --> Russian peacekeeping force in region. New currency (lari) introduced. 2001: (Russian) fighters from northern Caucasus back Abkhaz forces fighting against Georgian paramilitaries --> US special forces arrive to train and equip Georgian forces. ’03: Bloodless "Rose Revolution" removes President Shevardnadze (election issues). ’04: Tension in autonomous region Adjara. ’05: Russia starts to withdraw troops. ’06: Explosions on Russian side of border disrupts gas / electricity supplies (suspected sabotage) & suspends imports of Georgian wine. Georgia seizes control of Abkhazia's Kodori Gorge & announces plan for pro-Tbilisi government --> Abkhazia breaks off peace talks. SO vote in favour of independence, again. ’08: Start Russia-Georgia War. Russia strengthens ties with Abkhazia and SO à Georgia accuses them of planning de facto annexation. ’08: Georgia tries to retake SO --> military conflict with Russia: Russia ejects Georgian troops out of SO & Abkhazia. After 5 days: French-brokered peace agreement, but Russia recognizes territories as independent states & keeps military presence. NATO military exercises in Georgia. ’14: EU trade partnership deal. ‘15 August: Russian forces in SO move internal border 1.5 km further into Georgia, threatening main road linking west and east of country.

Photo by Miles Watson Photography.

FREE Sights / Activities

Sights: Svan Towers; St. Nicholas Church.
Hikes / Nature: Svaneti National Park. Hikes as described in the article.

PAID Sights / Activities

Museums: Svaneti Museum of History and Ethnography; Mikheili Khegiani House Museum; Margiani’s House Museum.
Other: Hatsvali Cable Car; Ushguli; Khatsvali Ski Resort; Tetnuldi Ski Resort; Paragliding

Evening Entertainment

Nightlife Areas: None. Mestia has a few bars / restaurants on the main street. Seti Square has a few bars featuring live music.
Theatres: None. You can watch the film Dede at Pub & Cinema Dede. This movie was filmed in Ushguli and depicts the life and traditions of the Svaneti region.

Photo by Miles Watson Photography.

Budget Bites

Supermarkets: Spar; Nikora (most expensive); Tanya (cheapest).
Local Dishes: Khinkali (dumplings); Acharuli (cheese bread); Khachapuri (cheese bread in different versions); Nigvziani Badrijani (eggplant and walnut paste dish); Lobio (bean stew); Lobiani (bean-stuffed bread); Jonjoli (pickled bladdernut flowers); Tkemali (sour plum sauce); Adjika (spicy tomato sauce); Phkali (vegetable balls); Tolma (meat and rice stuffed in grape or cabbage leaves); Ajapsandali (eggplant ratatouille); Bazhe / Satsizi (walnut sauce); Mchadi / Chishvdari (corn bread with cheese); Gomi / Elarji (cheese corn flour porridge); Gebzhalia (cheese / mint soup); Borano (cheese with boiled butter); Sinori (dough bread with cheese); Gogris Gupta (squash in a ball shape / vegetarian kefta); Qnashi (boiled minced pumpkin seeds); Qababi (kebab); Chakapuli (herbed lamb stew); Mtsvadi (meat skewers); Satsivi (poultry with walnut paste); Bozbashi (soup with lamb / peas / chestnuts / tomatoes); Chehkmeruli (chicken in a cream-based sauce); Puri / Tonis Puri (flatbread); Churchkhela (Georgian snickers). Keep in mind: While accommodation is rather affordable in Georgia, grabbing a bite in a restaurant is not… especially not in a touristy place like Stepantsminda.
The Veg Situation: Going veg is rather complicated in Georgia, as meat is the main ingredient in most meals. However, where there’s a will there’s a way and there are plenty ‘accidentally vegan / vegetarian’ typical Georgian dishes. Find all veg-friendly in this destination here. Local veg dishes (descriptions above): Mushroom / Potato Khinkali; Acharuli; Khachapuri; Nigvziani Badrijani (vegan); Lobio (vegan – verify no meat is added); Lobiani (vegan if not prepared in butter); Jonjoli (vegan); Tkemali (vegan); Adjika (vegan); Phkali (vegan); Ajapsandali (vegan); Bazhe / Satsizi (vegan); Mchadi / Chishvdari; Gomi / Elarji; Gebzhalia; Borano; Sinori; Gogris Gupta; Qnashi (vegan); Puri / Tonis Puri (vegan); Churchkhela (vegan); Tarkhunis Ghvezeli (tarragon stuffed bread).
National Drink: Wine; Chacha.
The local food delivery app is called Glovo. However, it’s pretty user-unfriendly and the customer service is a joke. I by all means advise against using it.
Georgia is known for its hospitality, sometimes to an almost pushy level. It’s very common to have alcohol (especially chacha) offered to you and a refusal can be deemed offensive. Vegans / vegetarians might encounter the same issue when having food offered to them, typically containing meat and dairy.

Sleep Cheap

Hostels / Hotels: are relatively cheap in Georgia. If you’re with 2 people or more, a private room or apartment is similar priced as a dormitory bed in a hostel. I personally found the best deals on Booking.com. They also have the biggest selection, are transparent about the final price and have an efficient search engine tailored to your specific needs. If you use it often enough, generous Genius-discounts are applied. I heard some tourists claim that a phone call to the accommodation shaves some extra cash off the Booking.com price, but I don’t have the same experience. A problem with Air BnB is that they’re not only more expensive, but many listings that you can book aren’t actually available. After you paid you’ll receive some message in Georgian or Russian that they’re closed for whatever reason, after which you’ll have to attempt to let them officially cancel so you get your money back (generally, if you cancel as a customer there’s only a partial refund). Very annoying! As such: Always email them first to verify if they’re in fact open. Agoda is often not transparent about prices, adding a lot of additional costs in the last booking-step. Opodo is a better alternative. Generally, you are expected to pay in cash. Writer’s choice: I was lucky enough to stay in Inga Jafaridze Guesthouse Pele. They offer clean rooms, an incredibly well-equipped shared kitchen and beautiful shared spaces for hanging out. The hostess was incredible.
Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost (unless you put a third-world country as homebase), but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate request explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored). Kutaisi has a decent Couchsurfing community. Alternatives are Trust Roots, Be Welcome, Host A Sister and Warm Showers (for cyclists).
Housesitting: is an amazing exchange allowing you to stay short- or long-term in somebody’s house, while looking after their house and pets. There are many different websites, most of them paid… but once you landed a sit, the subscription fee pays itself back quickly. The main housesitting site is Trusted Housesitters.
Wild Camping: is entirely legal in Georgia! I recommend keeping a distance from the cities and avoiding camping close to shepherd’s territory, as the bear-sized guard dogs can get quite aggressive if you accidentally get too close.

Mama Said

Safety: Georgia is a very safe country, but use your common sense like everywhere. Don’t walk alone in remote areas after sunset, don’t take valuables along and follow your instincts when entering certain neighbourhoods further away from the centre.
Steer clear of shepherd dogs! This is a hard task, as they’re often right on the hiking trails and they consider a large area their domain. However, if you have the opportunity to signal to the shepherd, do so in advance so he can ensure your safe passing. Tusheti is the most shepherd-dog-loaded area of the country and these bear-sized animals are truly terrifying. They’re trained to be aggressive and ruthless when it comes to protecting their flock, and you won’t be an exception to them. I had quite a traumatizing experience here.
The best credit/debit card for traveling is Wise or Revolut, as they use the live conversion rates without any extra fees and you can create a Georgian wallet. Wise also has the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. Keep in mind that some ATMs charge a fee, the amount always indicated before completing the transaction. Payment by card is generally accepted in bigger supermarkets, but smaller shops always require cash. Accommodation is generally paid in cash.
Tap Water: is drinkable.
Simcard: Acquiring a sim card is pretty straightforward and very affordable (avoid the pricy EU roaming charges by getting a local sim). Don’t get a tourist package, which is more expensive than a regular package. You can go to any phone shop in the cities with your passport and buy the sim and package that interests you, and they’ll help you to set it up. Magti is said to have the best coverage in Georgia, and they sell both 7-days and 30-days packages. After the first installation, you can simply extend and pay with their app, which is also available in English. Alternatives are Geocell (poor coverage) and Beeline (cheaper but said to have worse service).
Georgia’s insane inflation: Almost all prices I found online (even in quite recent articles) have doubled or tripled. I was told that both Covid and the Russian War have caused an incredible inflation, so everything is unfortunately much more expensive than it used to be. I still didn’t consider Georgia an expensive country, but I found food, entry prices to attractions and museums as well as public transport not as cheap as I expected it to be.

Transport

Walking: Mestia is tiny, and all sights are within walking distance. Hiking is the main reason you’re here anyway.
Cycling: If you’re skilled with cycling on steep inclines and declines, then Mestia can offer some interesting challenges. Be careful on the main roads, as local traffic is generally not considerate for cyclists.
City Buses / Tram / Metro: There is no public transport available, besides some mashrutkas heading up to Ushghuli and back into the direction of Zugdidi.
Taxi / Uber: Taxis profit gloriously from the lack of public transport and request outrageous prices. If you want to travel on a budget, avoid them by all means. Also, keep in mind: It’s quite common for taxi drivers around the bus stations to tell you a certain bus has been cancelled and your only option is taking a taxi… This is in 99% of the cases a lie.
Intercity Buses: The main way of city-to-city transport in Georgia is by minibus / “mashrutka,” which is also the case for Mestia. Most destinations are labelled on the front window, but generally only in the Georgian alphabet… However, because Mestia is such a popular attraction, you’ll find it likely to be written in the alphabet as well. A downside of the mashrutkas is that traveling with a big backpack / suitcase can be rather complicated (sometimes an extra fee is charged), as there’s hardly any storage space. Especially considering the sheer amount of people that are crammed in during the ride, eventually standing crouched over in the pathway and sitting on each other’s laps. Another nuisance is that mashrutkas get cancelled if not enough people get in, which can considerably prolong your anticipated travel time. The prices are almost 4x as high as a few years ago, as the mashrutka drivers have organised themselves in some sort of cartel to systematically pump up the rates of rides towards this popular attraction.
Train: Svaneti isn’t served by a train station. Trains go as far as Zugdidi… however, during my visit, these weren’t operational. Trains in Georgia are served by Georgian Railway. (purchasing a ticket online doesn’t work quite well – it’s much easier to just buy it at the station). Taking a train here is something you’d do for the experience only, as not only are the trains leaving less frequent than the mashrutkas, they’re also slower, serve less destinations and cost more.
Car Rental: Car rental is rather pricy in Georgia and only suitable for very confident drivers. The local traffic situation is a complete mayhem and might not resemble what you’re used to at home. I recommend taking the most extensive insurance package, as damage is easily made when looking at the road behaviour of most drivers.
Airport: Queen Tamar Airport (UGMS); Tbilisi International Airport (TBS).
Hitchhiking: is rather common in Georgia and frankly your best bet in the Svaneti area, due to the hardly-existent public transport situation and the local taxi mafia charging outrageous prices. I always managed to get a ride in Georgia, yet, my experience is that not everyone is keen to stop and at times you might have to wait a bit (although for a woman / couple it will always be much faster than for a man, as a rule of thumb anywhere in the world). Some spots, such as Juta, have hardly any traffic flow (besides the touring campervans that only take paying customers), so you must mentally prepare for long waiting times. You don’t have to trace down a convenient pull-over strip, as drivers will stop anywhere, even if it blocks all other traffic. Take into account that English (or any other language but Georgian and Russian) is not widely spoken, so chit-chat might be complicated. More info here!

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National Destinations Close By: Zugdidi; Anaklia; Kutaisi; Martvili; Batumi.
International Destinations: Russia; Turkey; Armenia; Azerbaijan.

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