Andong / Taebaek
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I watched my train being devoured by the mountain pass and let me thoughts slither toward my envisioned destination. Mild foresights of a traditional Korean village tucked in between the rice fields, sun weathered workers curiously looking up from their bend position to shyly nod to this estranged foreigner...
Expectations are deceiving.
Modern revolution fiercely caught up with Andong, pushing folklore aside to make space for endless high-rises embellished with the in the meantime new tradition of brightly flashing neon lights.
Expectations are deceiving.
Modern revolution fiercely caught up with Andong, pushing folklore aside to make space for endless high-rises embellished with the in the meantime new tradition of brightly flashing neon lights.
Mildly skeptical I accepted my urban welcome, to hastily drop off my luggage and follow my instinct right out of the congested city... guiding me to exactly what I was looking for.
Andong Folk Village (free)
The Andong that once was and had unconsciously triggered my initial interest is frenetically preserved on this remarkably lush piece of land, making you wish the clock had ceased its brutal ticking. The sloshing of the watermill, historic houses forcing you to bend forward to enable entering and the organically emerged blueprint of the settlement makes you doubt the intrinsic meaning of the concept of ‘progress’. This is Korea, this is the core. Please leave your marks forever.
Tip: the most scenic and sporty way to reach this highlight from downtown Andong is by the wooden trail on the right side of the river. There are also high-quality bicycle lanes leading you to this highlight.
Paid alternatives: Hahoe Folk Village, Andong Gunja Village.
Andong Folk Village (free)
The Andong that once was and had unconsciously triggered my initial interest is frenetically preserved on this remarkably lush piece of land, making you wish the clock had ceased its brutal ticking. The sloshing of the watermill, historic houses forcing you to bend forward to enable entering and the organically emerged blueprint of the settlement makes you doubt the intrinsic meaning of the concept of ‘progress’. This is Korea, this is the core. Please leave your marks forever.
Tip: the most scenic and sporty way to reach this highlight from downtown Andong is by the wooden trail on the right side of the river. There are also high-quality bicycle lanes leading you to this highlight.
Paid alternatives: Hahoe Folk Village, Andong Gunja Village.
Andong Folk Museum (KRW 1,000)
To clarify what you’ve just seen at the Andong Folk Village a visit to the Andong Folk Museum is highly recommendable, shedding a light on traditional practices exercised in these historic settings. During my visit I found this was the only museum open, as establishments such as the Traditional Cultural Contents Museum and the Water Museum had their doors shut even during high season.
More expensive alternatives: Confucian Cultural Museum, Hahoe World Mask Museum, Andong National University Museum.
To clarify what you’ve just seen at the Andong Folk Village a visit to the Andong Folk Museum is highly recommendable, shedding a light on traditional practices exercised in these historic settings. During my visit I found this was the only museum open, as establishments such as the Traditional Cultural Contents Museum and the Water Museum had their doors shut even during high season.
More expensive alternatives: Confucian Cultural Museum, Hahoe World Mask Museum, Andong National University Museum.
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Andong Mask Dance Festival (free)
Talking about Andong’s customs and folklore, there’s not one occasion during which this comes more vividly to life than during the Mask Dance Festival. Since ancient times the so-called ‘Hahoe Masks’ have played a crucial role in local cultural history, people attributing spiritual powers to them which where needed in shamanist exorcism rituals (Hahoe Pyolsin-Gut). On top of that, the masks were inherent to dramatic displays related to ritual prayers for welfare and bountiful harvest, as well as social satire. Grudgingly I have to admit I missed this colourful event by a day, as South Korea seems to plan all its national festivals during the same weekends (I was attending the Gyeongju Cultural Festival which was taking place simultaneously). A bummer for me, but worth planning around for when it comes to your personal itinerary.
Talking about Andong’s customs and folklore, there’s not one occasion during which this comes more vividly to life than during the Mask Dance Festival. Since ancient times the so-called ‘Hahoe Masks’ have played a crucial role in local cultural history, people attributing spiritual powers to them which where needed in shamanist exorcism rituals (Hahoe Pyolsin-Gut). On top of that, the masks were inherent to dramatic displays related to ritual prayers for welfare and bountiful harvest, as well as social satire. Grudgingly I have to admit I missed this colourful event by a day, as South Korea seems to plan all its national festivals during the same weekends (I was attending the Gyeongju Cultural Festival which was taking place simultaneously). A bummer for me, but worth planning around for when it comes to your personal itinerary.
Hiking
Besides Andong’s close proximity to national parks such as Sobaeksan, Woraksan, Songnisan and Juwangsan (personal transport is recommended for easy access), the suburban hiking possibilities are rather limited. However, where there is a will, there is a way. I simply installed the Maps.me app which proofed very useful in my previous journeys and zoomed in to trace down any walking trails.
Jackpot:
Besides Andong’s close proximity to national parks such as Sobaeksan, Woraksan, Songnisan and Juwangsan (personal transport is recommended for easy access), the suburban hiking possibilities are rather limited. However, where there is a will, there is a way. I simply installed the Maps.me app which proofed very useful in my previous journeys and zoomed in to trace down any walking trails.
Jackpot:
Zigzagging through rice fields, forests and farmland full of chilli peppers and spring onions I got my initial hopes and expectations for Andong fulfilled after all. Walk that trail!
I had a pleasant day in Andong but a day is more than enough, so next morning I continued my journey to Taebaek. The Korean mountains were calling. And not only mountains: The lure of that typical Korean hospitality that had shyly surfaced on several earlier occasions was one of the promises strongly dominating the course of the needle of my internal compass.
Couchsurfing
Mister Kwonsik Kim, or Mister Tom for foreigners, and his wife represented everything and more Couchsurfing is standing for, proofing age is indeed just a number and not forming any roadblock on the passage of friendship.
I had a pleasant day in Andong but a day is more than enough, so next morning I continued my journey to Taebaek. The Korean mountains were calling. And not only mountains: The lure of that typical Korean hospitality that had shyly surfaced on several earlier occasions was one of the promises strongly dominating the course of the needle of my internal compass.
Couchsurfing
Mister Kwonsik Kim, or Mister Tom for foreigners, and his wife represented everything and more Couchsurfing is standing for, proofing age is indeed just a number and not forming any roadblock on the passage of friendship.
I joined Mr. Tom on his outings to church, the local ping-pong club and his a capella rehearsals, met his friends and got invited for dinner every single night (the ‘dead-drunk vegetables’ – according to Google Translate – being my personal favourite)... on top of that, I temporarily resided in a beautiful styled private apartment adjacent to his house.
Hiking: Taebaeksan National Park (free)
Besides the pure beauty of the Korean people, I was also lucky enough to explore to treasure of their landscapes during its golden autumn, when the forest’s color spectrum swifts into an entire new dimension. Bright red and yellow lit up by the strong sunrays flawlessly cutting through fierce wind.
Hiking: Taebaeksan National Park (free)
Besides the pure beauty of the Korean people, I was also lucky enough to explore to treasure of their landscapes during its golden autumn, when the forest’s color spectrum swifts into an entire new dimension. Bright red and yellow lit up by the strong sunrays flawlessly cutting through fierce wind.
Taebaeksan is only declared a national park since 2016, but boy, does it deserve it! While jaunting over its extensive trail network I couldn’t help but stop every ten steps to silently look around me in awe, needing some time to process the intense beauty nature was firing at me at every turn. Besides the overwhelming level of splendour, also an acceptable grade of difficulty was taken care of, something that I personally see as a needed challenge. You see, Koreans loooove to hike, but they also like to do so on perfectly flat trails, any ascend made ridiculously easy by means of comfortable wooden stairs... But that’s not what I’m in nature for! If I want to climb stairs I’ll travel linea recta to to Seoul / Busan to run up and down their multistoried buildings. Luckily, in Taebaeksan NP they found an exciting balance.
Three peaks I climbed that day. From the easily reachable Donggol Valley I followed the highly scenic trail to the freezing cold Cheonjedan Peak, passing the Manggyeongsa Temple. I continued over the ridge to the Busoebong Peak, which basically serves as a helicopter platform. From there I continued down and up again to the Munsubong Peak and descended back to Danggol via an alternative trail, from where I hitchhiked back. All of this I could complete in several hours, leaving after lunch time and returning far before sunset.
Bus- and trail info (click on the image to enlarge):
Bus- and trail info (click on the image to enlarge):
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Take bus 7, which leaves from the bus terminal and stops everywhere along its route downtown. Find your nearest stop on the Kakao Maps or Naver app. Get off at Danggol Valley, which is where two trails start. They didn’t charge me to get into the park, but some visitors have reported to have paid KRW 2,000. If this is too damn complicated, I recommend this company for cheap car hire!
Alternative bush-bush experience: Mureunggyegok Valley (free), Taebaek Highland Natural Recreation Forest (paid - cheap camping available). In winter, Taebaek’s mountains are excellent for skiing.
Caves (paid)
Taebaeksan National Park should be the main reason of your visit, but if you find yourself some extra days in this pleasant mountain town please also include some caves on your itinerary. The most prominent one is the Yongyeon Cave a short ride out of town, but you could also opt for the Hwanseongul, Hwaam or Cheongok Caves.
Cheoram Coal Mine History Town
As I decided to use the local train system (the cheap ‘n slow ones) as my mode of transport, I automatically ended up in the small village of Cheoram. Hidden in a secluded mountain range, this spot might have easily faded from memory if it wasn’t strongly remembered for its memoirs of an eminent aspect of Korea’s labour history: the strenuous work of tireless coal miners. A captivating stroll through the historical streets that are now turned into place-specific exhibitions teaching you all about the life that once was and didn’t entirely vanish until the day of today.
Alternative bush-bush experience: Mureunggyegok Valley (free), Taebaek Highland Natural Recreation Forest (paid - cheap camping available). In winter, Taebaek’s mountains are excellent for skiing.
Caves (paid)
Taebaeksan National Park should be the main reason of your visit, but if you find yourself some extra days in this pleasant mountain town please also include some caves on your itinerary. The most prominent one is the Yongyeon Cave a short ride out of town, but you could also opt for the Hwanseongul, Hwaam or Cheongok Caves.
Cheoram Coal Mine History Town
As I decided to use the local train system (the cheap ‘n slow ones) as my mode of transport, I automatically ended up in the small village of Cheoram. Hidden in a secluded mountain range, this spot might have easily faded from memory if it wasn’t strongly remembered for its memoirs of an eminent aspect of Korea’s labour history: the strenuous work of tireless coal miners. A captivating stroll through the historical streets that are now turned into place-specific exhibitions teaching you all about the life that once was and didn’t entirely vanish until the day of today.
Nowadays the lion’s share of Taebaek’s mining affairs has been modernized and strongly diminished in proportion, turning the focus of business towards the newly introduced casino’s and gambling facilities that are luring in the crowds. As a flipside of the story my compassionate host Mr. Tom spends every afternoon preparing meals for the people who turned homeless and penniless due to their gambling addictions...
Human intervention for human inventions. Mother Nature frowns and shudders her sassy leaves, glowing in the autumn light.
Human intervention for human inventions. Mother Nature frowns and shudders her sassy leaves, glowing in the autumn light.
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