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Free Healthcare in Argentina

Healthcare is free in Argentina. I decided to force myself into a positive attitude, that’s why I’m emphasizing the only upside.
 
It’s free, FREE, freeeeee.

Good, that said, let’s have a closer look at the day-to-day-reality of a public hospital in Argentina. As I’m freebie numero uno and as an unsubscribed Dutch citizen I won’t get any healthcare covered anyway, I decided to give it a go. After over 1,5 years of traveling a total health check-up didn’t seem like a bad idea. Luck had it that I just arrived in Argentina and I didn’t have a job yet, because the inefficient process of endless lines, non-cooperating departments and brain-numbing bureaucracy all during office hours makes up a part-time job in itself.
Picture
Visit #1

In order to get anything done I needed a doctor’s order. And to get a doctor’s order..? Right, I needed to see a doctor. Now it starts to get tricky. You see, you’re not the only one who wants to see him, every day there are about 300 others with the same idea. And as you can’t simply call to make an appointment, you have to set the alarm at about 4-5AM to join the hours-long-line in time to get a turn (turno), which with a whole lot of luck allows you to see him the same day (with less luck you waited for nothing and can have another try the next day). Wasn’t I lucky: After ONLY 1,5 hours in line I got my appointment for 6 hours later.

Visit #2

As a girl gotta eat I went home for lunch and returned for my appointment, of course to be attended according to the Argentinean perception of time. The doctor did his funny doctor-things with stethoscopes and pinching-techniques and decided I needed 4 things: Get an X-ray and a cardiogram, get my blood tested and see a dermatologist. Good, let’s do it today, get it over with! Hahaha, nooooo Stephanie. In order to see anyone you need a turno, and what a shame: All desks already closed. Come back next day.
Picture
Visit #3

I came back, again at an inhumane hour, and joined the familiar line. One hour later it was my turn to get a turn. But hey, I’m Dutch! My government needs to pay for my healthcare, a woman shouted. I explained that’s not how my country works. They didn’t care, they needed two copies of my passport anyway and whatever happens then would disappear in bureaucracy somehow.

So I left the hospital, got my passport copied... and joined the line again. Right, so now they could stamp my doctor’s orders, but a turn they couldn’t give. Even though this is the main desk, all departments within the hospital operate as separate entities with zero communication: You deal with them separately. It helps if you speak slang Spanish, because no one speaks any other language nor what could basically be defined as ‘standard Spanish’. Without my Argentine partner on my side I would be dramatically lost (something almost unbearable to accept for a person as independent as me). 
​
We tracked down the x-ray department to get a turno: Right... in three days I could be helped. Then we joined the line for the laboratory, two days later I could come back. The cardiogram department had gone home already. The dermatologist wouldn’t accept turns we were told, you just have to show up before sunrise and see whenever they have time for you. It doesn’t matter if that works for you or not, as long as it works for them (but it also doesn’t).
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Visit #4: 

Blood tests. Right, so my turno was quite unspecific about the time: Somewhere between 9-12. I had to get in line where people that had a turn for that morning had to take a turn again to see who came in first. What I didn’t understood from the classic doctor’s handwriting is that I had to go to a pharmacy myself to buy a plastic box to deliver my pee as well... but as the waiting time turned out to be about 1,5 hour I had plenty of time to manage this.
​
It would have been nice though if the toilets had a lock. Or toilet paper. In order to keep my clothes pee-free I took everything below the belt off, except my boots. As ‘the half-naked cowgirl’ I positioned one boot right of the seatless toilet and with the other I kept the door locked in a 90-degree-angle. In the centre of this angle I held the little cup, that way too soon filled up with its yellow liquid. As I’m not equipped with a penis I have no influence on the stream’s direction. As there was no toilet paper nor soap I had nothing to clean my hands with... or the walls. I decided to remain silent. The 4 tubes of blood where taken out of me at factory-speed, during which the nurse snarled at me for not writing my name on the pee-box (she even threatened I should come back another day... which she took back when she saw my face). I could come back in ten working days for the results, in fifteen to see if I had AIDS or not. No, they don't take any phone calls, you have to come in person to get this verbal one-sentence-answer.
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Visit #5: 

In a land where efficiency doesn’t exist I tried to do my best. I came in early to see if the dermatologist would do me the great honor to see me just before getting my X-rays done. I waited... and waited... until the dermatologist said I should get a turno. “But, huh, but THEY said...” – No Stephanie, policies change per day, per hour and per employee, and today you have to get a turno. So I joined the line. Again. Then I waited for the dermatologist. Again. That dermatologist told me I should come back in 10 days with my blood test results, because now she couldn’t really do anything. Yes, of course, why not?! I have nothing to do with my life anyway! Frustrated I let her electrocute that little spot next to my nose, so I got rid of the feeling to have came entirely for nothing. 

The X-ray was done quick. I got my photo right away, inclusive well high-lighted nipple piercing. So... all good inside? No one knew, just keep it for when you see the doctor again. Hey what, again? Yes, again. Could I maybe get my cardiogram now then? No, Stephanie, you cannot. Come back early some day when you’re not waiting on something else you need to come early for.
Picture
Visit #6: 

Blood results done! As my sidekick needed to get a hepatitis shot (which he didn’t get as this week they were only given on Thursdays without any particular reason or prior notice) he took my passport to pick them up. On my request he also lined up to get an appointment for the gynecologist and a mammography, but he was told only gynecologists give the orders for mammographies and gynecologists don’t take turns. Dear reader, this was a lie.
 

Visit #7:
 

5AM, alarm. As they don’t take turns for cardiograms I had to come and just hang around in front of the office as early as possible... to find out I DID need a turn. So I lined up, waited an hour, got 2 different turns, 1 for the cardiogram and 1 for the doctor’s interpretation of the cardiogram, and waited again sitting on the floor in front of the door. 
 
Multitasking: In the meantime, my plus-one joined the 1,5-hour line to try to get me a gynecology- and dermatology-appointment again, as opposed to all prior information, you DID need one. All the while he listened to the stories of people that came there the day before, stood in line for 10 hours, to hear they had to go home and try again next day. He got me a gynecologist-appointment for 11:00 AM that day and next Monday I could see the dermatologist.
 
We waited 1 hour for the gynecologist, to hear it was for next day, not today. Mistake of the main desk, just deal with it. As I had a JOB from next Monday on I couldn’t just hang out in a hospital for hours anymore to see the dermatologist (even though I love it SO much), so we checked if I could sneak in today quickly. I could, the highlight of my day. For those painful boobs I mentioned the dermatologist referred me to the gynecologist, she would know more.
Picture
Visit #8: 

The gynecologist, at last? Yes. Happily I started loosening my pants the moment I closed that door behind me. “Qué pasa?”... a strict-looking lady glanced over her glasses,

“We’re not checking any vaginas today.” 

Wait, we’re not? No: I waited twice in line for a turn, then twice for the appointment, just to meet with a woman who writes down three other orders (a check-up, mammography and pill advice) for which I had to line up again to get appointments again for which I had to come back on three separate days. Oh, and for those painful boobs I should go back to the dermatologist, it's not her field.
​
Fuck. My. Life.

​With steam coming out of my ears I joined the line again, and then another line as it was the wrong bloody line all of sudden, to only get confirmed what I already knew: Appointments only in the middle of the day, working days only. The fact that I had a job now was not their problem. With the devil in my eyes I tore up the three orders I just got and stormed out. I couldn’t take it anymore. My vagina could rot away for all I care, I’ll pay a private hospital when I’ll notice funghi growing out.
Picture
Visit #9: 

As hard as I stormed out I had to storm back in again five hours later. I had my cardiogram, blood test results and x-ray, now I needed a doctor to make sense of it and hand me over a declaration of health. If not, I couldn’t attend my zumba classes: At least a thumbs up for precautionary measures in sport practices, it must be said. Even though I experienced worse hospitals (it is possible, just go to El Salvador) I swore to myself this would be the last time I’ll set foot in this hospital, unless an ambulance has to carry me in there. Good for me: The doctor concluded I was perfectly healthy, had a strong and well-functioning body and more iron and proteins in my blood than any meat-eater he saw that week (I stopped eating animals as they're nicer than most people). The next 2 years I would be sorted. Maybe I would even going to miss the stuttering "Von... Ban, Ban, Van Gggho, gjowe... Estephany, Estefania!" every time they call out my name when it's my turn. Probably not.

So yes, it’s free. Unless time is money, then it becomes the most expensive care you’ll ever receive. 
Picture
“It is as it is, this is what happens with a free system”, my Argentinean said.

Well, A) This is not the definition of a ‘system’: In a system all separate elements cooperate to let the entity function as a whole, B) The presence of an actual efficient-working ‘system’ could save a lot of time, thus work, thus money. Besides preventing the current situation of burn-out doctors working in a chaotic mayhem, the time saved can be turned into shorter waiting times for patients. The money saved can be invested in overall quality (so hospitals aren’t filthy, dusty places with toilet doors that won’t close) and other national priorities like education, which is also free but didn’t produce any organized, English-speaking employees so far. But C) the only way to obtain this ‘utopia’ which is the reality in countless other countries (where it’s not free), is the realization that nothing ‘is as it is’.

Change happens first in the mind, then in separate people's behavior and then in the system.
​
I know, this is too much to ask.

Did I tell you healthcare is free in Argentina?
Picture
* For free public hospitals people are urged to go to Buenos Aires. On the countryside help is insufficient and even worse.
* Healthcare is free for residents, but also for us tourists. If you want to try it out, come ridiculously early (6-7AM),  bring many copies of your passport and immigration stamp and only visit on days on which you have nothing planned. Only go if you speak fluent Argentine Spanish and have an iron nerve system. However, considering the time needed and the amount of follow-up visits you are likely to have, it's only an option for long-term visitors. For travelers, health insurance is recommended as it allows you to get helped quicker and more efficient in a private hospital. 

This is my personal experience in 1 specific hospital (Pirovano in Buenos Aires) and might not represent every situation... although locals confirmed it does.


​
Photo credits: 1 -2 - 3 - 4 - 5 - 6 -7 - 8

In order to support the travelers’ community, I spend many hours per week to adequately document all information and advices for prospective visitors, accompanied by a (hopefully) entertaining insight into my personal observations and experiences. This service is and will remain free. However, if you voluntarily want to make a contribution and support my travels and thus the creation of new stories and information supply, here is the button you’re looking for: 
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Related:
- Private healthcare in Brazil
- Getting hospitalized in El Salvador
- A hospital experience in Tegucigalpa, Honduras
- Food poisoning in Peru
​
- Why it's wise to have your yellow fever shots when travelling in Central America
​
- A genital injury in Mexico. That hurts.
​
- A little sneak-peek into North Korea!
​
​- 13 Strange Observations of South Korea

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