Cyprus Cities
Not in the story-mood? Scroll down for the Quick Budget Fact Overview: an itemized information summary of Cyprus! ↓
However relaxing a holiday can and should be, the prior planning process is often paired with a healthy dose of stress. Especially when one has a limited time frame and needs to choose a “base of operations” for further exploration of the vacation destination at hand. No matter how small Cyprus might seem, it is an actual country on its own of 9251km² tall, containing about 6 major cities (of over 85 cities in total)… so where the hell should you book your accommodation if you know nothing about the island to begin with?!
I was in the exact same position, granted that Cyprus wasn’t a quick and pleasant summer break for me, but part of my already 8-year journey across the planet. As such, I had the luxury to stay on the island as long as my wallet would allow it (Southern Cyprus is ex-pen-sive) and hop from city to city. About a month later, I had spent 3-7 days in the cities of Paphos, Limassol, Larnaca, Ayia Napa, Nicosia, Famagusta and Kyrenia… long enough to get an overall grasp of each location and form a fixed set of favorites. Speaking of which…
Cyprus Cities – Budget Bucket List’s Top-5
I was in the exact same position, granted that Cyprus wasn’t a quick and pleasant summer break for me, but part of my already 8-year journey across the planet. As such, I had the luxury to stay on the island as long as my wallet would allow it (Southern Cyprus is ex-pen-sive) and hop from city to city. About a month later, I had spent 3-7 days in the cities of Paphos, Limassol, Larnaca, Ayia Napa, Nicosia, Famagusta and Kyrenia… long enough to get an overall grasp of each location and form a fixed set of favorites. Speaking of which…
Cyprus Cities – Budget Bucket List’s Top-5
[The island of Cyprus has been separated since 1974 into the southern Greek “Republic of Cyprus” and the northern occupied “Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus.” As such, in daily life you’ll hear both the Greek and Turkish names of each city, which can be confusing in the beginning. In this article I will therefore mention first the Greek and then the Turkish name of each city covered.]
1. Nicosia / Lefkoşa
I’m aware that many locals disagree with me, given the pleasantly situated coastal towns at hand, but I just couldn’t get enough of the charm and pleasant chaos of Cyprus’ bustling capital. The mere fact that it’s the last divided capital in the world, brutally split in two with a border scarring the very heart of its alluring Old Town, endlessly fascinates me. You in fact need your passport to hop from one side to the other, and a proper culture shock is included in the experience. On the southern side you find yourself strolling through modern, perfectly aligned streets. Even the historical sandstone housing and monuments are immaculately groomed for the eye of the public, without losing the connection with its traditional Greek Cypriot cultural essence. However, the second you reach the other side of the frontier, your eye is instantly met with the delightful commotion of knock-off brands street merchants, the traditional pranking icecream-vendors and shop windows gloriously displaying sweet dripping baklava. Two different worlds cropped within those ancient city walls.
1. Nicosia / Lefkoşa
I’m aware that many locals disagree with me, given the pleasantly situated coastal towns at hand, but I just couldn’t get enough of the charm and pleasant chaos of Cyprus’ bustling capital. The mere fact that it’s the last divided capital in the world, brutally split in two with a border scarring the very heart of its alluring Old Town, endlessly fascinates me. You in fact need your passport to hop from one side to the other, and a proper culture shock is included in the experience. On the southern side you find yourself strolling through modern, perfectly aligned streets. Even the historical sandstone housing and monuments are immaculately groomed for the eye of the public, without losing the connection with its traditional Greek Cypriot cultural essence. However, the second you reach the other side of the frontier, your eye is instantly met with the delightful commotion of knock-off brands street merchants, the traditional pranking icecream-vendors and shop windows gloriously displaying sweet dripping baklava. Two different worlds cropped within those ancient city walls.
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Personally, I had the great pleasure to be hosted in the northern part by one of the kindest and generous humans I met in the past few years. The Turkish Mutlu personified the hospitality his homeland hold a reputation for, while sharing his appreciation for his new homebase Cyprus and the culinary traditions of the island. I learned that a “mezze” isn’t just an insane amount of mouth-watering food to be consumed over the course of a couple of hours… it also represents a keystone of local culture and the social fibre. The mezze is served in both the Greek and Turkish areas of Cyprus, but prices are much lower on the northern side. Actually, everything is cheaper on the Turkish side, which makes this part of Nicosia/Lefkoşa your best bet for shopping as well as partying. When here, also make sure to check out the Büyük Han, the traditional Ottoman “inn” constructed in 1572 to cater to the swarming crowds of international traders and vendors hawking their wares on the island. I found however the Greek side much more organized when it comes to their offer in museums, of which there are enough to fill an entire weekend with. I visited the Municipal Gallery, elaborating on the tumultuous history of the town, as well as the Centre of Visual Arts and Research, which quite randomly exhibited a collection of kid’s toys over the years. Both museums were free of charge.
A blue line guides every visitor passed the most interesting sights of the capital’s Old Town. Unfortunately, the line is damaged on many sections and entirely disappears at times, leaving you hanging.
FREE Recommended Sights / Activities
PAID Recommended Sights / Activities
Nicosia/Lefkoşa is the country’s main transport hub. On the Greek side one can use the intercity buses to reach any location, whereas on the Turkish side minibuses/dolmuses connect the capital to the other main cities.
Evening Entertainment
[Scroll down for further items of the Budget Fact Overview: Cyprus Facts; Short History Recap; Budget Bites; Sleep Cheap; Mama Said; Transport; Where To Next.]
A blue line guides every visitor passed the most interesting sights of the capital’s Old Town. Unfortunately, the line is damaged on many sections and entirely disappears at times, leaving you hanging.
FREE Recommended Sights / Activities
- Sights: Old Town (North/South); Medieval Venetian City Walls & Gates (North/South); Büyük Han (North); Kumarcilar Han (North); Turkish Flag on Five Fingers Mountains (North); Liberty Monument (South); Tomb of Makraros III (South); Many Churches & Mosques.
- Museums: Municipal Gallery (South); Centre of Visual Arts and Research (South); Museum of Cyprus (South); Postal Museum (South); Struggle Museum (South).
- Hikes / Nature: Athalassa National Park (North/South).
PAID Recommended Sights / Activities
- Sights: Shacolas Tower Museum & Observatory (South).
- Museums: Museum of Barbarism (North); Mevlevi Tekke Museum (North); Leventis Gallery (South); Cyprus Classic Motorcycle Museum (South); Byzantine Museum (South); Cyprus Folk Art Museum (South); Ethnological Museum House of Hadjigeorgakis (South); Printmaking Museum.
Nicosia/Lefkoşa is the country’s main transport hub. On the Greek side one can use the intercity buses to reach any location, whereas on the Turkish side minibuses/dolmuses connect the capital to the other main cities.
Evening Entertainment
- Nightlife Areas: Both the Turkish and Greek side of the Old Town have many bars, terraces and restaurants. Most nightclubs are just outside of the city walls, predominantly on the Greek side. Some clubs are clustered around Eleftheria Square (South).
- Theatres: Flea Theatre; Theatro Dentro; Pantheon Theatre; Strovolos Municipal Theatre; Satiriko; Theatro Leukosias; Pallas Theatre; Konstantia Open Air Cinema; Theatro Anemona; Agios Dometios Theatre; Red Stage Theatre; Theatro Eva. (All in the South).
[Scroll down for further items of the Budget Fact Overview: Cyprus Facts; Short History Recap; Budget Bites; Sleep Cheap; Mama Said; Transport; Where To Next.]
2. Larnaca / Larnaka
I found Larnaca to be one of the most pleasant cities of Southern Cyprus. Even though it’s the third-largest city in the country, the centre has the snug feel of a village due to its comfortable compactness. Yet, it has all the elements Cyprus is loved for… The town is concentrated along an ample supply of white, stretched out beaches, easily connected to one another by a vivid and breezy boulevard. Add to that the typical Cypriot Old Town area, comprising rustic yet elegantly preserved architecture and delightful swirling alleys to get lost in. As an extra bonus, the Larnaca Salt Lake provides for some satisfactory hiking, including the opportunity to spot flamingos (Nov-Dec until Mar-Apr). The most interesting trail departs from the Roman Kamares Aqueduct, which is still in excellent shape, and leads you along the lake’s waterfront passed the Hala Sultan Tekke (mosque) and back to town right over the downtown beaches. Even though I believe this mosque to look much more intriguing from the outside, blending in with its environment as if it were an element of 1001 Nights, I recommend a quick visit on the inside as well if only for its historical value as Cyprus’ main Muslim pilgrimage site. The Hala Sultan Tekke is built over the tomb said to belong to Umm Haram, the foster-mother of Prophet Mohammed. Religion enthusiasts can also visit the Agios Lazaros church, which was allegedly erected above Lazarus’ tomb. Besides that, Larnaca offers a handful of free museums, as well as the Archeaological site of Kition (Ancient Larnaca, established in the 13th century BC as a Greek city-kingdom after the Trojan War).
Find below my recording of the Kamares-Salt Lake Trail (left). I also included a recording (right) of a countryside-roadtrip I was invited to join by my Couchsurfing host Nicolas. Especially in spring this is an interesting route along fields of wildflowers, deserted churches and small villages. Click the links to go the GPS-recordings on Wikiloc.
I found Larnaca to be one of the most pleasant cities of Southern Cyprus. Even though it’s the third-largest city in the country, the centre has the snug feel of a village due to its comfortable compactness. Yet, it has all the elements Cyprus is loved for… The town is concentrated along an ample supply of white, stretched out beaches, easily connected to one another by a vivid and breezy boulevard. Add to that the typical Cypriot Old Town area, comprising rustic yet elegantly preserved architecture and delightful swirling alleys to get lost in. As an extra bonus, the Larnaca Salt Lake provides for some satisfactory hiking, including the opportunity to spot flamingos (Nov-Dec until Mar-Apr). The most interesting trail departs from the Roman Kamares Aqueduct, which is still in excellent shape, and leads you along the lake’s waterfront passed the Hala Sultan Tekke (mosque) and back to town right over the downtown beaches. Even though I believe this mosque to look much more intriguing from the outside, blending in with its environment as if it were an element of 1001 Nights, I recommend a quick visit on the inside as well if only for its historical value as Cyprus’ main Muslim pilgrimage site. The Hala Sultan Tekke is built over the tomb said to belong to Umm Haram, the foster-mother of Prophet Mohammed. Religion enthusiasts can also visit the Agios Lazaros church, which was allegedly erected above Lazarus’ tomb. Besides that, Larnaca offers a handful of free museums, as well as the Archeaological site of Kition (Ancient Larnaca, established in the 13th century BC as a Greek city-kingdom after the Trojan War).
Find below my recording of the Kamares-Salt Lake Trail (left). I also included a recording (right) of a countryside-roadtrip I was invited to join by my Couchsurfing host Nicolas. Especially in spring this is an interesting route along fields of wildflowers, deserted churches and small villages. Click the links to go the GPS-recordings on Wikiloc.
FREE Recommended Sights / Activities
PAID Recommended Sights / Activities
Evening Entertainment
[Scroll down for further items of the Budget Fact Overview: Cyprus Facts; Short History Recap; Budget Bites; Sleep Cheap; Mama Said; Transport; Where To Next.]
- Sights: Old Town; Kamares Aqueduct; Hala Sultan Tekke Mosque; Agios Lazaros (church); Turkish Quarter / Skala; Larnaca Marina.
- Museums: Larnaca Municipal Art Gallery; Kyriazis Medical Museum; Municipal Museum of Natural History.
- Hikes / Nature: Larnaca Salt Lake; Mackenzie Beach; Kastella Beach; Finikoudes Beach; Yiannades Beach.
PAID Recommended Sights / Activities
- Sights: Larnaca Castle.
- Museums: Pierides Museum; Larnaca District Archeaological Museum; St. Lazaros Byzantine Museum; Kallinikeio Municipal Museum of Athienou; Kition Archeaological Site.
- Other: Ktima Christoudia Winery; Emira Pottery; Scubadiving (Zenobia Wreck); Boat Trips.
Evening Entertainment
- Nightlife Areas: Most of Larnaca’s bars, restaurants and clubs are located along the coastline. Overall, it’s quite pricy here!
- Theatres: Theatre Skala; Antidote; Kinematotheatro Simena Kalithea.
[Scroll down for further items of the Budget Fact Overview: Cyprus Facts; Short History Recap; Budget Bites; Sleep Cheap; Mama Said; Transport; Where To Next.]
3. Kyrenia / Girne
This same cosy, village feel I obtained in Kyrenia… but with a strong Turkish feel to it (be it in a lesser degree than in Famagusta / Gazimagusa). This town is easily the tourist favourite of Northern Cyprus. Partly because of its easy accessibility from the capital Nicosia / Lefkoşa, partly because its winding alleys and the ancient horseshoe-shaped harbour effortlessly capture its traditional character without feeling artificially preserved. Add to that the sublime location embraced by the incredibly blue Mediterranean Sea on one side, and the imposing Five Finger Mountains on the other, and you got yourself the ideal holiday destination. It is believed that Kyrenia’s history traces back to the Achaeans, who founded the city under the name “Corineum”, after which it continued to take a crucial role in Byzantine, Lusignan and Venetian times. To further explore the various traces of this place-specific history, a visit to the Girne Castle (also containing the Shipwreck Museum) is recommended. Other castles in the area include the Buffavento Castle, “hikeable” in the months of February to May, as well as the truly awe-inspiring St. Hilarion Castle. During my times in Cyprus, I experienced a severe case of castle- and fortress-tiredness after having travelled the Balkans for 9 months non-stop… but the St. Hilarion didn’t fail to fully capture my attention.
Fore more information on the Five Fingers Mountains, check te Cyprus Nature article.
If you’re lucky enough to visit Kyrenia in July-September, you can witness the loggerhead (caretta caretta) and green turtle hatch at Alagadi Beach.
FREE Recommended Sights / Activities
PAID Recommended Sights / Activities
Evening Entertainment
[Scroll down for further items of the Budget Fact Overview: Cyprus Facts; Short History Recap; Budget Bites; Sleep Cheap; Mama Said; Transport; Where To Next.]
This same cosy, village feel I obtained in Kyrenia… but with a strong Turkish feel to it (be it in a lesser degree than in Famagusta / Gazimagusa). This town is easily the tourist favourite of Northern Cyprus. Partly because of its easy accessibility from the capital Nicosia / Lefkoşa, partly because its winding alleys and the ancient horseshoe-shaped harbour effortlessly capture its traditional character without feeling artificially preserved. Add to that the sublime location embraced by the incredibly blue Mediterranean Sea on one side, and the imposing Five Finger Mountains on the other, and you got yourself the ideal holiday destination. It is believed that Kyrenia’s history traces back to the Achaeans, who founded the city under the name “Corineum”, after which it continued to take a crucial role in Byzantine, Lusignan and Venetian times. To further explore the various traces of this place-specific history, a visit to the Girne Castle (also containing the Shipwreck Museum) is recommended. Other castles in the area include the Buffavento Castle, “hikeable” in the months of February to May, as well as the truly awe-inspiring St. Hilarion Castle. During my times in Cyprus, I experienced a severe case of castle- and fortress-tiredness after having travelled the Balkans for 9 months non-stop… but the St. Hilarion didn’t fail to fully capture my attention.
Fore more information on the Five Fingers Mountains, check te Cyprus Nature article.
If you’re lucky enough to visit Kyrenia in July-September, you can witness the loggerhead (caretta caretta) and green turtle hatch at Alagadi Beach.
FREE Recommended Sights / Activities
- Sights: Harbour; City Walls and Towers; Buffavento Castle; Bellapais Abbey (can be freely seen from the outside); Agha Cafar Pasha Mosque.
- Museums: Art Gallery.
- Hikes / Nature: Five Fingers Mountains; Alagadi Turtle Beach; Diana Beach.
PAID Recommended Sights / Activities
- Sights: St. Hilarion Castle; Girne Castle.
- Museums: Ancient Shipwreck Museum.
- Other: Etel Winery; Scuba Diving; Boat Tours; Casinos (free food included).
Evening Entertainment
- Nightlife Areas: Harbour; Coastal Promenade.
- Theatres: Amphitheatre.
[Scroll down for further items of the Budget Fact Overview: Cyprus Facts; Short History Recap; Budget Bites; Sleep Cheap; Mama Said; Transport; Where To Next.]
4. Paphos / Baf
Paphos was my first interaction with Cyprus… and it was not what I expected. Having lived on the island of Malta for 7 months, I naively anticipated something similar. However, instead of colorful, traditional architecture breathing the essence of century-long histories, I found myself amidst utterly modern boulevards and apartment blocks housing a full-on British expat enclave (even the “Old Town” looked freshly pumped out of the ground). Also: Instead of Malta’s slightly awkward, rocky coastline, Cyprus suddenly offered me blissful white, crisp sand beaches. I guess what I want to point out is that you should always arrive with an open mind and let the unique features of a country win you over. Cyprus truly did, in a very different way than I previously imagined.
I might have been slightly disappointed in Paphos’ contemporary urban layout, but the town’s no less than 2 Unesco World Heritage Sites didn’t fail to impress me. Apparently, a turbulent history hides under this fresh modern layer! It is estimated that the habitation of Paphos started as early as the Neolithic period. The ancient city (Palaipaphos) was settled by the Mycenaeans at what is now Pírgos and contained a temple honoring the mythological birthplace of the goddess Aphrodite (sight: Aphrodite’s rock). The newer town (Nea Paphos), which is located where modern Paphos is situated today, grew out to be the administrative center of the island during Ptolemaic and Roman times until it was destroyed by Muslim raiders in 960AD. The remnants of this era, including the Theatre, Agora, Odeon and well-preserved mosaic floors, can still be visited today at the Archeaological Site of Nea Paphos. Conveniently, a secret free entrance into this visitor’s highlight is marked on Maps.me. Another UNESCO-marked archaeological site is the Tombs of Kings, which comprises an underground necropolis of monumental tombs, skilfully carved out of the bedrock. Interestingly, despite the name they have never actually served as the final resting place of royals, but merely to the rich elite of the Hellenistic / Ptolemaic society. To my great surprise, visitors are allowed to enter and walk through all burial chambers, even though this causes it to visually erode. A free alternative to the Tomb of Kings is the Fabrica Hill, which includes an amphitheatre, and the Agia Solomoni Catacombs. However, I witnessed construction work being carried out to connect this site to the Tomb of Kings visitor area. Unfortunately, the background information provided on these sites is fairly limited, which is why I recommend a visit to the elaborate Paphos Archaeological Museum, which is entirely free of charge.*
For more information on the natural getaway from Paphos to the Avakas Gorge in Akamas National Park, check out the Cyprus Nature article!
* During my time of visit (off-season / spring), this was unfortunately the only museum in Paphos which was opened. I tried to visit the Ethnographical Museum, the Byzantine Museum and the Municipal Gallery, but stood in front of locked doors.
Paphos was my first interaction with Cyprus… and it was not what I expected. Having lived on the island of Malta for 7 months, I naively anticipated something similar. However, instead of colorful, traditional architecture breathing the essence of century-long histories, I found myself amidst utterly modern boulevards and apartment blocks housing a full-on British expat enclave (even the “Old Town” looked freshly pumped out of the ground). Also: Instead of Malta’s slightly awkward, rocky coastline, Cyprus suddenly offered me blissful white, crisp sand beaches. I guess what I want to point out is that you should always arrive with an open mind and let the unique features of a country win you over. Cyprus truly did, in a very different way than I previously imagined.
I might have been slightly disappointed in Paphos’ contemporary urban layout, but the town’s no less than 2 Unesco World Heritage Sites didn’t fail to impress me. Apparently, a turbulent history hides under this fresh modern layer! It is estimated that the habitation of Paphos started as early as the Neolithic period. The ancient city (Palaipaphos) was settled by the Mycenaeans at what is now Pírgos and contained a temple honoring the mythological birthplace of the goddess Aphrodite (sight: Aphrodite’s rock). The newer town (Nea Paphos), which is located where modern Paphos is situated today, grew out to be the administrative center of the island during Ptolemaic and Roman times until it was destroyed by Muslim raiders in 960AD. The remnants of this era, including the Theatre, Agora, Odeon and well-preserved mosaic floors, can still be visited today at the Archeaological Site of Nea Paphos. Conveniently, a secret free entrance into this visitor’s highlight is marked on Maps.me. Another UNESCO-marked archaeological site is the Tombs of Kings, which comprises an underground necropolis of monumental tombs, skilfully carved out of the bedrock. Interestingly, despite the name they have never actually served as the final resting place of royals, but merely to the rich elite of the Hellenistic / Ptolemaic society. To my great surprise, visitors are allowed to enter and walk through all burial chambers, even though this causes it to visually erode. A free alternative to the Tomb of Kings is the Fabrica Hill, which includes an amphitheatre, and the Agia Solomoni Catacombs. However, I witnessed construction work being carried out to connect this site to the Tomb of Kings visitor area. Unfortunately, the background information provided on these sites is fairly limited, which is why I recommend a visit to the elaborate Paphos Archaeological Museum, which is entirely free of charge.*
For more information on the natural getaway from Paphos to the Avakas Gorge in Akamas National Park, check out the Cyprus Nature article!
* During my time of visit (off-season / spring), this was unfortunately the only museum in Paphos which was opened. I tried to visit the Ethnographical Museum, the Byzantine Museum and the Municipal Gallery, but stood in front of locked doors.
Photo by Miles Watson Photography.
FREE Recommended Sights / Activities
PAID Recommended Sights / Activities
Evening Entertainment
FREE Recommended Sights / Activities
- Sights: Archeaological Site of Nea Paphos / Kato Paphos (via secret free entrance on Maps.me); Fabrica Hill; Agia Solomoni Catacombs; “Old Town” area (not so old); Harbour Area; St. Paul’s Pillar.
- Museums: Paphos Archaeological Museum; Steni Museum of Village Life.
- Hikes / Nature: Avakas Gorge / Akamas National Park; Aphrodite’s Rock; Lara Bay Turtle Beach; Sea Caves (around Coral Bay); Kelefos Bridge area; Paphos Municipal Beach; Vardas Beach; Vrisoudia Beach.
PAID Recommended Sights / Activities
- Sights: Tombs of Kings; Archeaological Site of Nea Paphos (via main entrance); Paphos Castle.
- Other: Aphrodite’s Rock Microbrewery; Tsangarides Winery; Fikardos Winery; Kalamos Winery; Lazarou Winery; Sodap / Kamantarena Winery; Aphrodite Waterpark.
Evening Entertainment
- Nightlife Areas: Kato Paphos (lower Paphos) – seaside boulevard area; “Bar Street” Ayiou Antoniou, which however has a bad reputation.
- Theatres: Markideio Theatre; Attikon Multicultural Space.
5. Limassol / Limasol
Limassol forms Cyprus’ second biggest city, after the capital Nicosia. Its focus on tourism only strengthened after 1974, when the island’s prime tourist resorts Famagusta (Varosha) and Kyrenia came under Turkish occupation (until today). Quite successfully so, according to TripAdvisor which ranked it the world’s 3d “up and coming” destination in 2014… but I’m personally not so sure about this bold statement, hence my ranking as only the 5th favorite. Sure, Limassol has quite a large strip of beaches catering to Cyprus’ ample amount of sunseekers. Yet, a hectic, honking highway right alongside it robs it from its sought-after serenity. Quite frankly, Limassol’s tumultuous traffic situation deprives the entire town overall of any sliver of tranquillity. When booking a stay in Limassol, keep in mind you’ll find yourself in an actual city, not much different from a small-scale Frankfurt or Rotterdam, instead of in a typical Mediterranean island-getaway-destination.
You can fill your days with some museum-hopping*, blowing your money in the fancy-pants marina**, or stroll around the swirling alleys of the “Old” Town. Old within quotation marks, as this area is renovated to such an extent that there are very few traditional elements left… expect dandy coffeeshops, vanguard street art and a marketplace serving mainly organic, vegan and gluten-free. Therefore, my favorite attraction dates back to times far before modernity engulfed Limassol. The Archaeological Site of Kourion contains this well-preserved ancient Hellenistic city-state preceding Limassol, believed to be founded by Greek settlers from Argos (the ‘Argives’).*** The site was subsequently colonized by the Mycenaeans and Romans, until the abolishment of all city-states during the incorporation of Cyprus into the Macedonian State under Alexander the Great. The theatre, stoa, mosaics and especially the view make it a recommended daytrip.
* I recommend the Limassol Art Museum exhibiting the works of various talented Cypriot artists.
** The majority of the beaches and areas are gated off and only accessible to the rich and famous.
*** What later become known as Limassol was tucked in between two ancient Hellenistic city-states: Kourion and Amathus. However, the latter was entirely destroyed, so only Kourion can still be visited.
Limassol forms Cyprus’ second biggest city, after the capital Nicosia. Its focus on tourism only strengthened after 1974, when the island’s prime tourist resorts Famagusta (Varosha) and Kyrenia came under Turkish occupation (until today). Quite successfully so, according to TripAdvisor which ranked it the world’s 3d “up and coming” destination in 2014… but I’m personally not so sure about this bold statement, hence my ranking as only the 5th favorite. Sure, Limassol has quite a large strip of beaches catering to Cyprus’ ample amount of sunseekers. Yet, a hectic, honking highway right alongside it robs it from its sought-after serenity. Quite frankly, Limassol’s tumultuous traffic situation deprives the entire town overall of any sliver of tranquillity. When booking a stay in Limassol, keep in mind you’ll find yourself in an actual city, not much different from a small-scale Frankfurt or Rotterdam, instead of in a typical Mediterranean island-getaway-destination.
You can fill your days with some museum-hopping*, blowing your money in the fancy-pants marina**, or stroll around the swirling alleys of the “Old” Town. Old within quotation marks, as this area is renovated to such an extent that there are very few traditional elements left… expect dandy coffeeshops, vanguard street art and a marketplace serving mainly organic, vegan and gluten-free. Therefore, my favorite attraction dates back to times far before modernity engulfed Limassol. The Archaeological Site of Kourion contains this well-preserved ancient Hellenistic city-state preceding Limassol, believed to be founded by Greek settlers from Argos (the ‘Argives’).*** The site was subsequently colonized by the Mycenaeans and Romans, until the abolishment of all city-states during the incorporation of Cyprus into the Macedonian State under Alexander the Great. The theatre, stoa, mosaics and especially the view make it a recommended daytrip.
* I recommend the Limassol Art Museum exhibiting the works of various talented Cypriot artists.
** The majority of the beaches and areas are gated off and only accessible to the rich and famous.
*** What later become known as Limassol was tucked in between two ancient Hellenistic city-states: Kourion and Amathus. However, the latter was entirely destroyed, so only Kourion can still be visited.
FREE Recommended Sights / Activities
PAID Recommended Sights / Activities
Evening Entertainment
- Sights: Old Town / Street Art; Promenade; Holy Monastery of St. Nicholas of the Cats (not a super interesting monastery, just a whole lotta cats); Marina; Churches.
- Hikes / Nature: Limassol Salt Lake (in my opinion less impressive than the Larnaca Salt Lake); Beaches.
PAID Recommended Sights / Activities
- Sights: Kourion. (Limassol Castle has quite a steep entry price for what it is)
- Museums: Limassol Art Museum; Historic Classic Motor Museum; Water Museum; Carob Mill Museum; Archeaological Museum; Municipal Museum of Folk Art; Theatre Museum.
- Other: Limassol serves as a good daytrip-base for wine-tours in the Troodos region. I recommend Cyprus Taste Tours; Fasouri Watermania Waterpark; Scubadiving; TrueAle Cyprus Brewery.
Evening Entertainment
- Nightlife Areas: Old Town; Boulevard.
- Theatres: Rialto Theatre; Theatre Ena; Aiora Theatre; Patticheo Demotiko Theatro; Sinergio Theatre; Municipal Theatre Agios Athanasios.
Excluded from the top-5 list, but a special mention:
- Ayia Napa: There’s a reason I didn’t include Ayia Napa, even though I made a few of my most pleasant Cypriot travel memories there: The surrounding coastal stretch of nature is absolutely incredible, but the town is really not. As this an article about the towns, it wouldn’t be fair to direct you to Ayia Napa, as it’s a purely functional settlement, designed to effectively cater to all tourist needs but lacking any sense of authentic personality of its own. However, if you’d like to learn more about the hiking-adventures to be experienced in this area, I gladly redirect you to the Cyprus Nature blog.
Photo by Miles Watson Photography.
Read more about Famagusta in the North Cyprus article.
- Famagusta: Even though this area used to function as the main tourism hub of Cyprus, it lost that function after the Turkish occupation, whereas Kyrenia managed to maintain it. Not in the least because Varosha was turned into a proper ghost town (currently serving as a “dark tourism” attraction of its own). Nowadays, the town serves as a foreign student epicentre. It still has an attractive Old Town (just with the main churches turned into mosques), and even in the modern main street the lack of eye-pleasing architecture is satisfyingly compensated with a high-speed hustle and bustle of life and low-key day-to-day adventures… However, to me, it seemed more like a city to live in than to experience as a tourist.
Read more about Famagusta in the North Cyprus article.
Unless you Couchsurf and live the life of a local for a few days…
Quick Budget Fact Overview
Cyprus Facts
Short History Recap
5800-3000 BC: Stone Age --> Farmers, herdsmen and hunters. 3000-2300 BC: Bronze Age. 1225: Achaeans (came at end of the Trojan War, establishing kingdoms). 1100 BC: Phoenicians in Kition (now Larnaca). 709 BC: Assyrians. 560 BC: Egyptians. 522-486 BC: Persians. 332 BC: Allegiance with Alexander the Great / Kingdom of Macedonia. 294 – 58 BC: Ptolemies (Egypt). 58 BC: Romans. Apostle Paul and Barnabas introduced Christianity to Cyprus. 395: Eastern Roman / Byzantine Times. 1192-1489: Franks. Introduction of feudalism: Local wealth for knights, the nobility and the merchants – Common people suffering. 1489-1571: Venetians --> reinforcement of infrastructure / creation of new forts. 1570-1878: Ottoman rule. 1878 – 1960: British, gained after Ottomans lost war with Russia --> built roads and organised government. ’55: Greek Cypriots begin guerrilla war against British for unification with Greece, led by Archbishop Makarios --> ’56 deported, ’59: returns and is elected president. ’60: Independence --> Greek and Turkish Cypriots communities reach agreement on a constitution. Treaty of Guarantee: Britain, Greece and Turkey have right to intervene. ’63: Makarios proposes constitutional changes endangering power-sharing = Inter-communal violence, Turkish Cypriots withdraw from power-sharing. ’64: UN peacekeeping force. Turkish Cypriots withdraw into defended enclaves. ’74: Greek Military junta \ backs coup against President Makarios --> flees. Turkish troops land in north, occupy 1/3 of Cyprus. Greek Cypriots flee: population exchange. "Green Line" = ’63 UN ceasefire line. UN Security Council calls upon Turkey to withdraw troops from Cyrpus, but up until now they refused. ’75: Turkish Cypriots establish independent administration: Denktash president. ’83: Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus proclaimed, recognised only by Turkey. ’98: EU lists Cyprus as potential member. 2002: UN presents a peace plan: 2 constituent parts / rotating presidency. EU summit in Copenhagen invites Cyprus to join in 2004 if agreed to UN plan --> Otherwise only South Cyprus. Referendums: Plan is endorsed by Turkish Cypriots but rejected by Greek Cypriots. ’08: South €. Ledra Street crossing in Nicosia reopened. ’15: Resume talks on reunification, which end inconclusively in July ' 17. ’20: Anti-reunification nationalist Tatar president north.
Cyprus Facts
- Capital: Nicosia / Lefkoşa
- Language: Greek / Turkish
- Population: ± 1.2 mln
- Sq km: ± 9,251
- Currency: Euro (€) / Turkish Lira (₺)
- Electricity Outlet: Type G / 240 V / 50 Hz (the English one) – check!
- Country Code Phone: + 357
- Emergency Phone: 112
- Visa: Cyprus is EU, but not part of Schengen. Check out the visa requirements here.
- Vaccinations: Covid.
- Climate: Subtropical Mediterranean (Csa / BSh)
- High season: Summer
Short History Recap
5800-3000 BC: Stone Age --> Farmers, herdsmen and hunters. 3000-2300 BC: Bronze Age. 1225: Achaeans (came at end of the Trojan War, establishing kingdoms). 1100 BC: Phoenicians in Kition (now Larnaca). 709 BC: Assyrians. 560 BC: Egyptians. 522-486 BC: Persians. 332 BC: Allegiance with Alexander the Great / Kingdom of Macedonia. 294 – 58 BC: Ptolemies (Egypt). 58 BC: Romans. Apostle Paul and Barnabas introduced Christianity to Cyprus. 395: Eastern Roman / Byzantine Times. 1192-1489: Franks. Introduction of feudalism: Local wealth for knights, the nobility and the merchants – Common people suffering. 1489-1571: Venetians --> reinforcement of infrastructure / creation of new forts. 1570-1878: Ottoman rule. 1878 – 1960: British, gained after Ottomans lost war with Russia --> built roads and organised government. ’55: Greek Cypriots begin guerrilla war against British for unification with Greece, led by Archbishop Makarios --> ’56 deported, ’59: returns and is elected president. ’60: Independence --> Greek and Turkish Cypriots communities reach agreement on a constitution. Treaty of Guarantee: Britain, Greece and Turkey have right to intervene. ’63: Makarios proposes constitutional changes endangering power-sharing = Inter-communal violence, Turkish Cypriots withdraw from power-sharing. ’64: UN peacekeeping force. Turkish Cypriots withdraw into defended enclaves. ’74: Greek Military junta \ backs coup against President Makarios --> flees. Turkish troops land in north, occupy 1/3 of Cyprus. Greek Cypriots flee: population exchange. "Green Line" = ’63 UN ceasefire line. UN Security Council calls upon Turkey to withdraw troops from Cyrpus, but up until now they refused. ’75: Turkish Cypriots establish independent administration: Denktash president. ’83: Turkish Republic of Northern Cyprus proclaimed, recognised only by Turkey. ’98: EU lists Cyprus as potential member. 2002: UN presents a peace plan: 2 constituent parts / rotating presidency. EU summit in Copenhagen invites Cyprus to join in 2004 if agreed to UN plan --> Otherwise only South Cyprus. Referendums: Plan is endorsed by Turkish Cypriots but rejected by Greek Cypriots. ’08: South €. Ledra Street crossing in Nicosia reopened. ’15: Resume talks on reunification, which end inconclusively in July ' 17. ’20: Anti-reunification nationalist Tatar president north.
Local Festivals
Budget Bites
- Street Art Festival [Limassol] - May
- Beer Festival [Nicosia] – Jun
- Wine Festival [Limassol] - Aug
Budget Bites
- Budget Supermarkets: Lidl; Plus Discount; Athienitis; Sklavenitis; Metro; AlphaMega.
- Markets: Every city has its own market, usually housed in a separate building. Take note that in Southern Cyprus markets are actually more expensive than supermarkets. In Northern Cyprus markets are definitely cheaper than the supermarkets.
- Local Dishes: Mezze (tapas); Şeftali Kebab (sausages); Kleftiko (roasted lamb meat); Souvlaki (BBQ meat); Moussaka (Greek lasagne); Koupepia / Dolma (rice/meat in wine leaves); Louvi (bean dish); Pilafi Pourgouri (bulgur); Makaoronia Tou Fournou (macaroni lasagne); Stifado (stew); Kotopoulo me Kolokassi (chicken with taro potatoes); Ttavas (claypot dish); Molehiya (dried leaves); Pirohu (cheese / mint pastry); Böreği (pastry); Zeytinli (olive bread); Çörek (sweet bread), Tahinli (tahini bread); Ekmek Kadayıfı (bread pudding); Tarhana (dried wheat / yoghurt); Baf Chewing Gum (natural chewing gum); Ceviz Macunu (walnuts in syrup); Loukomades (deepfried dough balls with honey); Halloumi Cheese.
- The Veg Situation: Going veg is rather complicated in Cyprus, as they love their meat and fish in both the Greek and Turkish side. However, where there’s a will there’s a way. Find all veg-friendly restaurants in this destination here. Local veg dishes: Certain Mezze; Koupepia / Dolma with just rice (vegan); Louvi (vegan); Molehiya (vegan); Pirohu / Böreği with cheese or spinach; Zeytinli; Çörek; Tahinli; Ekmek Kadayıfı; Tarhana; Baf Chewing Gum; Ceviz Macunu; Loukomades; Halloumi Cheese.
- National Drink: Cypriot Wine (commandaria is the most famous); Keo Beer; Zivaniya (pomace brandy); Ouzo (anice-tasting alcoholic beverage); Filfar (liquor); Brandy Sour (cocktail); Ayran (yoghurt drink). Traditional coffee is prepared Turkish style: very strong with the grains still in the cup.
Photo by Miles Watson Photography.
Sleep Cheap
Mama Said
Sleep Cheap
- Hostels / Hotels: Accommodation is incredibly expensive in Southern Cyprus (comparable to Greece), but relatively affordable in the North (although definitely not as cheap as in Turkey). If you’re with 2 people or more, a private room or apartment is already cheaper than a dormitory bed in a hostel. I personally found the best deals on Booking.com, which is much cheaper than Air BnB listings here. Booking.com also has the biggest selection, is transparent about the final price and had an efficient search engine tailored to your specific needs. If you use it often enough, generous Genius-discounts are applied. Agoda is often not transparent about prices, adding a lot of additional costs in the last booking-step. Opodo is a better alternative. Writer's choice: I stayed in Nicosia, Larnaca, Limassol, Famagusta and Kyrenia by the means of Couchsurfing.
- Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost (unless you put a third-world country as homebase), but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate review explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored). In order to avoid the high accommodation costs of Cyprus and meet locals, I made great use of the Couchsurfing communities in both the north and south of Cyprus.
- Housesitting: is an amazing exchange allowing you to stay short- or long-term in somebody’s house, while looking after their house and pets. There are many different websites, most of them paid… but once you landed a sit, the subscription fee is pays itself back quickly. The main housesitting site is Trusted Housesitters.
- Wild Camping: is illegal in Cyprus. However, in the northern side it’s not strongly enforced. If you avoid beaches and protected areas, you are unlikely to run into problems.
Mama Said
- Safety: European countries like Cyprus are generally safe, both the north and south, but use your common sense like everywhere. Don’t walk alone in remote areas after sunset, don’t take valuables along and follow your instinct when entering certain neighbourhoods further away from the centre.
- Tap Water: is drinkable.
- Ethics: Boycott zoos like where animals are held in captivity.
- The best credit/debit card for traveling is Wise, as they use the live conversion rates without any extra fees. Wise also has the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. Keep in mind that many ATMs charge a fee, the amount always indicated before completing the transaction. Payment by card is generally accepted everywhere.
- Simcard: Keep in mind that a simcard bought in the south doesn’t work in the north, and the other way around. In the South, Epic, Vodafone and Primetel are most used and data prices are amongst the highest in Europe. In the North, Turkcell and Tellsim are the main prepaid networks, and rates are much lower. Whereas Turkey applies restrictions and taxes to foreign mobile phones, this isn’t the case in North Cyprus. EU laws for roaming don’t apply in North Cyprus. In the North you have to register your simcard, whereas in the South you can just buy a sim at any kiosk without registration.
- Some cities have the exact same street name twice, and the same street names are also shared between different cities. Very confusing. Always double-check the address twice before blindly navigating to it (speaking out of experience).
Photo by Miles Watson Photography.
Transport
Next?
Transport
- Walking: Within the cities, most distances can be reached on foot. To reach the suburbs of bigger cities such as Nicosia or Limassol, alternative transport is recommended.
- Cycling: Cycling is an easy option, although traffic can be inconsiderate for cyclists. The bike-share system in the South is called Nextbike (only available in Nicosia and Limassol), in the North it’s Velespeed (available in Nicosia and Famagusta).
- City Buses / Tram / Metro: Cyprus is connected by a bus system. In the South it’s rather organized, with buses leaving on set times advertised online. However, I have experiences of buses not showing up at all. The prices are quite high, but local student discounts apply for intercity buses. Greek Cypriot bus drivers are notoriously grumpy. In the North the bus system is far less organized and rather hectic, operating on a they-come-when-they-come-basis and stopping everywhere along the road. That said, it’s much cheaper. Public transport only connects the main cities… for more remote nature destinations you either need to hitchhike or rent a car.
- Taxi / Uber: The local Uber in Cyprus is Bolt, which operates in the main cities (incl. the northern Famagusta). You can also hail down a taxi on the street, but always negotiate the price before getting in. As expected, it’s more expensive in the South.
- Train: Not available in Cyprus.
- Car Rental: Keep in mind that you often need to pay a fee and/or insurance to move the car from the North to the South. Prices are overall rather high, compared to the rest of Europe.
- Airport: Paphos International Airport (PFO); Larnaca International Airport (LCA); Ercan Arport (ECN) in the North. Cheap city buses run to the neighboring towns, so you can avoid taking a taxi. Keep in mind that if you enter via the South you have to leave via the South, and if you enter in the North you have to leave via the North, otherwise you miss a passport stamp. You can move in between the North and South during your stay without problems, as long as you leave on the side you came from. The North is only recognized by Turkey and their port and airport are internationally recognized as illegal entry/exit points into Cyprus.
- Hitchhiking: is relatively safe in North Cyprus, but noy very common in te South.
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