Brasov & Region
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While trying to orientate on the “to-do’s” in Brasov I felt exactly like how the average high school teacher must feel during exam period. Remember those times when you secretly copied the answers of that nerdy kid in class, but rephrased the text a tiny bit so the exact content looks like your own work? (I do remember, except I was the geek in that story). Well, that’s how I felt when scrolling through existing travel blogs covering the Brasov area. Bravo, you managed to exactly copy-paste both text and experiences!
It’s a nice concept, travel blogs, but sometimes creativity seems to drown in a saturated market.
An attitude of sarcasm I obviously can only afford if I present you something different. While doing so, I’m not claiming you should entirely skip on the standard sightseeing tour. No no, you should absolutely go for a long stroll through this gem of a historical town enclosed in between those classical, medieval city walls. Visit the Black Church (biserica neagra) and Yekatarina Gate, visit the art galleries and theatres and yes, visit even the tourist-raided, selfie-sensitive Rope Street (which is, other than locally claimed, not the narrowest street in Europe… those are actually the Spreuerhofstraße in Germany and Parliament Street in England – yet, with its width between 1.11-1.35m it’s still pretty damn narrow!). Yes, go and check this off your own little tourist-checklist… just don’t spend more than 2 hours doing so.
If you’re lazy, you can even blindly follow those ‘free’ (tip-based) walking tours… or more fun: discover Brasov downtown by Geocaching.
But once you get all this mainstream stuff over with, that’s when the real fun starts!
7 Different Experiences in Brasov
1. Discover the Local Metal Scene
Romania is anything but short in nightlife. Even more so in student towns such as Brasov and Cluj Napoca. But why not go out of your comfort zone for once (and straight into mine)? Cold soil generally is the ultimate breeding ground for the darkest of all music, and Romania is no exception. This territory in the freezing core of the frosty East spits out a varied supply of locally brewed metal bands, such as Dirty Shirt, Carpatica and Negura Bunget (& more!), but also hosts an impressive number of internationally renowned heavy festivals only attracting the global crème de la crème of darkness. The most prominent of all? Rockstadt Extreme Fest! And yes, you guessed it right: its wild, black roots originate in the town you’re currently visiting. The Rockstadt metal bar underwent a full-on metamorphosis from smoky-hole-in-the-wall to the town’s biggest heavy music venue, and the result is definitely worth checking out. Cheap drinks and live gigs!
Update: I returned to Romania (2 months non-stop traveling in this gem of a country wasn't enough apparently), only to attend Rockstadt Extreme Fest. I don't know if it was the impressive line-up, the overall rowdy awesomeness of Romanian metalheads or the breath-taking location right in the core of Transylvania... but this festival is spot on! A MUST if you visit Romania in summer. Read more about Rockstadt Extreme Fest & other Romanian festivals in the blog "10 Romanian Festivals Worth Planning Your Trip Around".
Get your tickets for next edition here!
But once you get all this mainstream stuff over with, that’s when the real fun starts!
7 Different Experiences in Brasov
1. Discover the Local Metal Scene
Romania is anything but short in nightlife. Even more so in student towns such as Brasov and Cluj Napoca. But why not go out of your comfort zone for once (and straight into mine)? Cold soil generally is the ultimate breeding ground for the darkest of all music, and Romania is no exception. This territory in the freezing core of the frosty East spits out a varied supply of locally brewed metal bands, such as Dirty Shirt, Carpatica and Negura Bunget (& more!), but also hosts an impressive number of internationally renowned heavy festivals only attracting the global crème de la crème of darkness. The most prominent of all? Rockstadt Extreme Fest! And yes, you guessed it right: its wild, black roots originate in the town you’re currently visiting. The Rockstadt metal bar underwent a full-on metamorphosis from smoky-hole-in-the-wall to the town’s biggest heavy music venue, and the result is definitely worth checking out. Cheap drinks and live gigs!
Update: I returned to Romania (2 months non-stop traveling in this gem of a country wasn't enough apparently), only to attend Rockstadt Extreme Fest. I don't know if it was the impressive line-up, the overall rowdy awesomeness of Romanian metalheads or the breath-taking location right in the core of Transylvania... but this festival is spot on! A MUST if you visit Romania in summer. Read more about Rockstadt Extreme Fest & other Romanian festivals in the blog "10 Romanian Festivals Worth Planning Your Trip Around".
Get your tickets for next edition here!
Paintings on the outdoor area of Rockstadt. Wow, those album covers mark some prime moments in my life! Nostalgia!
2. Sample “Mancare Depost”
After your Rockstadt visit you might have noticed how open-minded and generous the metal crowd generally is, however ‘scary’ they might look to outsiders. I wish I could say the same about the average Christian here. Instead, when Club Colectiv in Bucharest burnt down during a metal concert (check the story here), absorbing 64 lives in the flames, these innocent victims didn’t receive the usual (entirely futile) ‘good thoughts and prayers’ of the local reli-masses… Nope. I felt my heart shrink when Alexandra told me about her friends she lots that night, who - according to the local Orthodox purists – ‘deserved to die’ as apparently everyone who likes guitars in their music is immediately a Satanist. Yup… be my guest to believe anything you want, I won’t judge, but if you limit your entire modern world view to some ancient writings and let it shield off any actual facts or easily verified reality-checks, outrageous nonsense like this is likely to be uttered.
But them Orthodox Christians got one thing right though. Fasting, an average 100 days a year (40 days before Easter and Christmas, on Orthodox holidays and every Wednesday and Friday on any given week – in theory, that is). And… Fasting food = 100% vegan food! Now, I don’t believe in the concept of fasting at all, in case you’re using it to achieve anything ethical. Either you go all the way and decide not to murder any of “God’s “ creatures whatsoever, no matter the month or day it happens to be, or you’re basically shooting passed the goal here [same as my opinion about the Ramadan – I think it only serves some kind of noble purpose if you actually give the food you would have eaten during daylight hours to the hungry and homeless who don’t have any… how’s starving yourself during the day and stuffing your face at night actually saving any lives here? – hate mail: incoming]. But the upside is that plant-based food is widely available. Any local restaurant or supermarket you enter, no matter how small, has a selection with a depost-label… the perfect cultural basis for the local food scene to further experiment and develop. Brasov is one delicious destination!
Go green and visit Ma Cocotte for a hearty, green meal:
Go green and visit Ma Cocotte for a hearty, green meal:
3. Get Some Mountain Air
I know, you’re on a city trip. But take your eyes off the pretty buildings for a second and look around you! Brasov is literally surrounded by the finest national parks of Transylvania. For a refreshing inhaling of some tree-filtered oxygen you don’t have to go far: You can literally walk up the trails of Mount Tampa right from the city centre (passing the Brasov-Hollywood-sign) or explore the trails of Poiana Brasov. Besides that, an incomprehensibly extensive network of trails and mountain huts is meandering through all the hills surrounding you, ready to serve your outdoor-needs!
I inquired some local hiking enthusiasts about interesting trails, and these are their favourites:
I know, you’re on a city trip. But take your eyes off the pretty buildings for a second and look around you! Brasov is literally surrounded by the finest national parks of Transylvania. For a refreshing inhaling of some tree-filtered oxygen you don’t have to go far: You can literally walk up the trails of Mount Tampa right from the city centre (passing the Brasov-Hollywood-sign) or explore the trails of Poiana Brasov. Besides that, an incomprehensibly extensive network of trails and mountain huts is meandering through all the hills surrounding you, ready to serve your outdoor-needs!
I inquired some local hiking enthusiasts about interesting trails, and these are their favourites:
- Piatra Craiului – wide variety of trails, most beautiful hut: Curmatura.
- Piatra Mare – Seven Ladders Canyon.
- Bucegi NP – Trail up to Babele, the extraterrestrial site of the Mountain Sphinx (also close to Sinaia).
- Ciucas Mountains – several trails.
- Santa Ana Lake - several trails.
4. Powder to the People!
Hiking is excellent in almost all seasons, although the avalanche risk and slippery conditions can impose some unwanted challenges in winter. However, this is the best time of the year to visit Transylvania! Romania might not be commonly known for it, but skiing, snowboarding and a wide variety of snow sports are widely practiced here! And when visiting Brasov you’re in for a real treat: The biggest ski resort of the entire country, Poiana Brasov, is only a stone’s throw away from the well-serviced historical centre (bus line 20 drops you off directly at the gondola entrance). With a total of 10 ski lifts and 7 well-prepared and maintained slopes, catering to all levels of expertise, there’s certainly enough to satisfy any lucky powder hound who found their way to this snow-covered utopia.
Personally, I was impressed with the variety on offer, its diversity keeping you simultaneously challenged and entertained for hours in a row. Relaxed mild forest routes are alternated with swift red descends, and off-slope powder zigzags are completed with adrenaline-loaded black drops. And when your legs are sore from too many 180s and flat spins, raise your glass at one of the two panoramic mountain bars or make your way to the elaborate entertainment center offering recreation such as bowling, minigolf and indoor sports. Getting bored just simply isn't an option.
Hiking is excellent in almost all seasons, although the avalanche risk and slippery conditions can impose some unwanted challenges in winter. However, this is the best time of the year to visit Transylvania! Romania might not be commonly known for it, but skiing, snowboarding and a wide variety of snow sports are widely practiced here! And when visiting Brasov you’re in for a real treat: The biggest ski resort of the entire country, Poiana Brasov, is only a stone’s throw away from the well-serviced historical centre (bus line 20 drops you off directly at the gondola entrance). With a total of 10 ski lifts and 7 well-prepared and maintained slopes, catering to all levels of expertise, there’s certainly enough to satisfy any lucky powder hound who found their way to this snow-covered utopia.
Personally, I was impressed with the variety on offer, its diversity keeping you simultaneously challenged and entertained for hours in a row. Relaxed mild forest routes are alternated with swift red descends, and off-slope powder zigzags are completed with adrenaline-loaded black drops. And when your legs are sore from too many 180s and flat spins, raise your glass at one of the two panoramic mountain bars or make your way to the elaborate entertainment center offering recreation such as bowling, minigolf and indoor sports. Getting bored just simply isn't an option.
Extra plus: your snow adventure definitely won’t break the bank in Romania! For 25 lei per ascend and day passes from 65-150 (13-31 euro – per 2019) this truly classifies as skiing on a budget. Check current lift prices here.
Combine all of this adventure with the most scenic background imaginable, and you will easily want to hibernate the entire winter season in the hills of Poiana Brasov. Here Transylvania shimmers in its purest form!
Slope info
Before hitting the slopes, make sure you visit the Poiana Brasov Tourist Info Centre, whose friendly employees can provide you with useful maps and information leaflets, as well as important advice and guidance.
Combine all of this adventure with the most scenic background imaginable, and you will easily want to hibernate the entire winter season in the hills of Poiana Brasov. Here Transylvania shimmers in its purest form!
Slope info
- Blue slopes: Drumul Rosu (3 – longest slope in Romania), Bradul (6), Stadion (7).
- Red slope: Sulinar (2).
- Black slopes: Lupului (1), Subteleferic (4), Kanzel (5).
Before hitting the slopes, make sure you visit the Poiana Brasov Tourist Info Centre, whose friendly employees can provide you with useful maps and information leaflets, as well as important advice and guidance.
5. Oppan Gypsy Style!
To many uninformed foreigners, Romania equals gypsies (the name ‘Roma’ might have something to do with this general confusion). A label not every inhabitant is equally satisfied with, to express it carefully. The truth is, even though the borderless gypsy community did prominently find their way to Romanian grounds, they’re an entirely different population group not generally mixing all that smoothly with the Romanian nationals, nor sharing the same history. That’s not a good or a bad thing, it simply offers extra unsuspected discoveries to the curious traveller. Brasov’s surroundings are dotted with gypsy-inhabited areas (Sacele / Sambata / Maierus), which are simply reached by public transport. However, in order to get the most out of your gypsy encounter (as safe as possible), organizations such as the Tzigania Project can help you to properly infiltrate this to outsiders rather closed society.
Stanki nashti chi arakenpe manushen shai.
[Mountains do not meet, but people do.]
To many uninformed foreigners, Romania equals gypsies (the name ‘Roma’ might have something to do with this general confusion). A label not every inhabitant is equally satisfied with, to express it carefully. The truth is, even though the borderless gypsy community did prominently find their way to Romanian grounds, they’re an entirely different population group not generally mixing all that smoothly with the Romanian nationals, nor sharing the same history. That’s not a good or a bad thing, it simply offers extra unsuspected discoveries to the curious traveller. Brasov’s surroundings are dotted with gypsy-inhabited areas (Sacele / Sambata / Maierus), which are simply reached by public transport. However, in order to get the most out of your gypsy encounter (as safe as possible), organizations such as the Tzigania Project can help you to properly infiltrate this to outsiders rather closed society.
Stanki nashti chi arakenpe manushen shai.
[Mountains do not meet, but people do.]
6. Go Off-Track!
So you hiked the national parks, you completed all descends of the Poiana Brasov area… but I dare to bet with you that there’s still a treasure of undiscovered terrain that you haven’t yet explored! And what’s more efficient when uncovering Transylvania’s off-the-grid gems than to race directly towards it by 4x4?! Exactly my point. For these pioneering off-trail racers among us there are two options.
A) Rent a car and DYI. I roamed the web for you and found some rather affordable (and fully-insured) deals for your right here.
So you hiked the national parks, you completed all descends of the Poiana Brasov area… but I dare to bet with you that there’s still a treasure of undiscovered terrain that you haven’t yet explored! And what’s more efficient when uncovering Transylvania’s off-the-grid gems than to race directly towards it by 4x4?! Exactly my point. For these pioneering off-trail racers among us there are two options.
A) Rent a car and DYI. I roamed the web for you and found some rather affordable (and fully-insured) deals for your right here.
B) Board the Land Rover of a local. I was lucky enough to hitch along with local tour guide and adventure specialist Marcus Taylor (yes – a Scot, you can skip on a Duolingo-course Romanian for this one) and discovered territory that would have remained entirely unrevealed if it wasn’t for his expertise…
And lucky for you, he’s your via-via-friend if you mention Budget Bucket List. Get your discount today!
7. Bloody (awesome) Day Trips!
No matter how much of an off-the-radar-purist you are, you simply can’t leave Brasov without having made the obligated side-trip to the Bran Castle (with a recommended stop at the Rasnov fortress). Yes, this is a touristy listing in this overview… but there’s a thin line between popularity and the significance of an attraction. Some well-visited tourist draws have exploited their peak position in such a way it tumbled down into the commercial bedrock of mass consumerism, but in my opinion the international fame of Bram Stoker’s creation of Dracula only worked in Bran Castle’s favour in terms of local story-telling and infrastructure. True, the castle is quite the eye-catcher on its own, fiercely erecting out of eroded rocks like it simply sprouted out of it, but the interwoven theme of this best-selling horror novel does give it that extra mystic touch
7. Bloody (awesome) Day Trips!
No matter how much of an off-the-radar-purist you are, you simply can’t leave Brasov without having made the obligated side-trip to the Bran Castle (with a recommended stop at the Rasnov fortress). Yes, this is a touristy listing in this overview… but there’s a thin line between popularity and the significance of an attraction. Some well-visited tourist draws have exploited their peak position in such a way it tumbled down into the commercial bedrock of mass consumerism, but in my opinion the international fame of Bram Stoker’s creation of Dracula only worked in Bran Castle’s favour in terms of local story-telling and infrastructure. True, the castle is quite the eye-catcher on its own, fiercely erecting out of eroded rocks like it simply sprouted out of it, but the interwoven theme of this best-selling horror novel does give it that extra mystic touch
Upside of touristic facilities: you can score a pair of Dracula teeth and put ‘em to good use.
Even here you can slightly deviate from the flattened tourist trails, by simply continuing the route right up in the hills or passed the castle toward the odd little Schaeffler Park. Probably the weirdest and darkest statues of Romania can be found at this very spot! (and if you need a bit of a challenge: one contains a well-hidden Geocache!).
Do NOT take those overpriced tourist-shuttles to visit this highlight. Bran can be reached by local transport (bus or minivan from Autogara 2). Hitchhiking is also an easy and rather safe option. I recommend putting your thumb up right here:
Even here you can slightly deviate from the flattened tourist trails, by simply continuing the route right up in the hills or passed the castle toward the odd little Schaeffler Park. Probably the weirdest and darkest statues of Romania can be found at this very spot! (and if you need a bit of a challenge: one contains a well-hidden Geocache!).
Do NOT take those overpriced tourist-shuttles to visit this highlight. Bran can be reached by local transport (bus or minivan from Autogara 2). Hitchhiking is also an easy and rather safe option. I recommend putting your thumb up right here:
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