Upolu Island & Savai'i Island
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While the stewardess provided my cup with an aromatic refill I rolled my eyes to the windows where the sky had just painted a rainbow.
In disbelief I watched the color pallet stretching out over the Pacific, marking the beginning of two bright patches of green land sticking fiercely out of the endless blue.
Never in my life had I be on top of a rainbow. Never, until now in the skies crowning Samoa. This must be a sign. A magnificent one.
In disbelief I watched the color pallet stretching out over the Pacific, marking the beginning of two bright patches of green land sticking fiercely out of the endless blue.
Never in my life had I be on top of a rainbow. Never, until now in the skies crowning Samoa. This must be a sign. A magnificent one.
Just like every other foreigner my first contact with this Pacific island was the Faleolo Airport, the main gateway to this piece of remoteness. I was the only non-local in that entire plane though, embracing the perks of low season. While I gaped at the explosion of colors and flower patterns in the clothing around me a band started playing the ‘fala’ and ‘nafa'*, completing the friendly smiles and words of welcome from people that I had never met before. In between the chaos of recaptured luggage and moving bodies I peeked outside, where I saw a smiling couple holding up a sign with my name.
* A rolled up mat beaten with sticks / indigenous Samoan drum made of wood.
* A rolled up mat beaten with sticks / indigenous Samoan drum made of wood.
Samoa is an exotic getaway for Aussies and Kiwis alike, pumping up the prices of anything with the slightest connotation to tourism. But it can be as cheap as you want it to be, without necessarily having to make any concessions on comfort. You just have to look a tad further than Booking.com or Hostelworld. As usual, I had joined local Facebook-groups and travel pages prior to my arrival in order to obtain the best local advice beyond the standard tourist guides, as well as the most beneficial contacts. As such I had run into Justine and Rocky from Asotas Le Property Host, specialized in short- and long-term rentals, and let me break it to you: They kick ass. And they don’t pay me to say so. It’s okay, you don’t have to believe me, you can go ahead and pay 100-150 bucks a night for a tiny hotel room in a so-called ‘resort’... but just so you know, I had this entire house to myself for about 25 euros a night.
Yeah, let that sink in.
Yeah, let that sink in.
My castle was located just outside Apia, the rather unattractive capital that nevertheless is the starting point for all things you might need to buy, book or arrange. Apia is located on the right-side island, Upolu, being the most developed and populated one of the two. Decide where your priorities lie, but personally I preferred the availability of internet and some (super)markets around the corner over complete remoteness. Not to mention vegan food options. Not kidding.
Krush is a 100% vegan restaurant serving Buddha Bowls straight from heaven.
Besides its nuisance of ever-existent traffic jams, honking cars and air pollution, Apia does house the lion share of local museums plus the Samoa Cultural Village. Sounds terribly touristy right, the latter? It is, and usually I’m the first one to take a piss on such attractions, but this one... well, it’s actually pretty damn good. And 100% free, so why not give it a go? An enthusiastic group of Samoans dressed up in traditional attire go out of their way to explain and demonstrate all local habits, practices and traditions in extensive detail.
From the hand-painting of lava-lava’s (sarongs) to the traditional nail-and-hammer-tattooing that forms the cradle of modern body art as we know it (the word tattoo comes from the Samoan word ‘tatau’), not one mystery of Samoan culture remains unrevealed.
Besides its nuisance of ever-existent traffic jams, honking cars and air pollution, Apia does house the lion share of local museums plus the Samoa Cultural Village. Sounds terribly touristy right, the latter? It is, and usually I’m the first one to take a piss on such attractions, but this one... well, it’s actually pretty damn good. And 100% free, so why not give it a go? An enthusiastic group of Samoans dressed up in traditional attire go out of their way to explain and demonstrate all local habits, practices and traditions in extensive detail.
From the hand-painting of lava-lava’s (sarongs) to the traditional nail-and-hammer-tattooing that forms the cradle of modern body art as we know it (the word tattoo comes from the Samoan word ‘tatau’), not one mystery of Samoan culture remains unrevealed.
I left the three-hour tour with a freshly acquired addiction to taro, potatoes but better, served with taro-leaves in coconut cream, which is like spinach... but better. It’s like letting your teeth sink into a piece of fresh marzipan, the mere memory of it already giving me goose bumps.
For the days to come I’d trace down the vendors along the street selling stuff in aluminium foil, almost in every case containing this divinity turned into food.
However, the true highlights of Upolu are scattered out all over the island. And let me crush the idea for you: It isn’t small. Even within Apia stuff isn’t walkable and even if it would be, the suffocating humid heat drains all physical activity out of you like a boiling sponge. Yes, there are taxi’s, but unless you saved up an entire year for this one holiday (which makes me a bit sad in a way), you wouldn’t want to spend that amount of money on it. Local transport is an option, definitely, but be prepared for a little adventure.
However, the true highlights of Upolu are scattered out all over the island. And let me crush the idea for you: It isn’t small. Even within Apia stuff isn’t walkable and even if it would be, the suffocating humid heat drains all physical activity out of you like a boiling sponge. Yes, there are taxi’s, but unless you saved up an entire year for this one holiday (which makes me a bit sad in a way), you wouldn’t want to spend that amount of money on it. Local transport is an option, definitely, but be prepared for a little adventure.
These colourful disco-wagons embellished with catchy biblical slogans can be hailed down basically everywhere. The vehicle has no windows, no regards of safety regulations and seating comes in the shape of little wooden benches which you probably will share with about five to eight others (including someone else’s baby on your lap)... which is still better than hanging out of the door India-style, according to my own observations not uncommon. They drive at their own easy pace and there’s no schedule, they come when they come... which sometimes means ‘not at all’. This makes it an adventurous, yet rather unreliable mode of exploration. But I got a better idea...
What about renting a motorbike?
What about renting a motorbike?
I had a great experience with Surf ‘n Turf, renting out brand new high quality motorbikes incl. snorkel gear for about 12 euros a day. With 5 euros worth of gasoline I drove an entire day from dusk till dawn.
Unlike what you might expect based on your recent backpacking trip in South East Asia, motors are not common in Samoa. You won’t see one local racing around on this vehicle, as it was simply never imported on an island this far away. Yet, some fresh immigrants grabbed the opportunity to introduce this business idea aimed on the few adventure-hungry tourists flying over. Ergo: me.
It’s an absolutely fantastic way of getting around, driving you from A to B faster and cheaper than a car ever could. Because right, in Europe a scooter is lawfully allowed to go up to 45/50 km/h right? Well, this one goes up to 130 km/h... ahum, a-uhhh, friend said. Only later I found out the local speed limit is about 50/80, depending on location. Not that the cops care, they were all smiles and waves when I cruised by. Everyone was. Because man, do Samoans love their visitors!
Unlike what you might expect based on your recent backpacking trip in South East Asia, motors are not common in Samoa. You won’t see one local racing around on this vehicle, as it was simply never imported on an island this far away. Yet, some fresh immigrants grabbed the opportunity to introduce this business idea aimed on the few adventure-hungry tourists flying over. Ergo: me.
It’s an absolutely fantastic way of getting around, driving you from A to B faster and cheaper than a car ever could. Because right, in Europe a scooter is lawfully allowed to go up to 45/50 km/h right? Well, this one goes up to 130 km/h... ahum, a-uhhh, friend said. Only later I found out the local speed limit is about 50/80, depending on location. Not that the cops care, they were all smiles and waves when I cruised by. Everyone was. Because man, do Samoans love their visitors!
True, you’ll have to get used to the constant staring, gaping and giggling in whatever direction you go and even the occasional marriage proposal (true story), but it comes from a good place. Never in my life did I feel closer to being a rockstar, everyone honking, screaming, waving or running out of the house to have a closer look at the crazy white lady racing by. And I? I just went with it, honking and waving back at every friendly face. I was having one hell of a time!
The first place I raced to was the oddly shaped Baha’i Temple, decorated with extensive well-kept gardens. Not much more to add to that observation than this, five minutes and you’ve seen it.
The first place I raced to was the oddly shaped Baha’i Temple, decorated with extensive well-kept gardens. Not much more to add to that observation than this, five minutes and you’ve seen it.
Further down the road you’ll pass by the Papapapatai Fall, which is worth a visit just so you can write that name down for once. If you see the cascade or not is highly dependent on the weather conditions. Whereas at the coast it’s mostly bright and sunny, the centre of the island can be washed away in a cloudburst at the exact same moment. I made the mistake to seek shelter in a deserted coconut stall, waiting until it’s over. Newsflash: These showers don’t easily pass, you just have to keep on driving for a mile more to be out of it... you’ll absolutely soak to the bone in five nano-seconds, but you’ll dry as quickly in the roasting sunrays just at the end of the road.
If, like me, you missed the sight of – let’s say it one more time – The Papapapapapapatai Fall, there are a big handful left to make up for it. I’m calling a Sapoaga Fall, Togitogiga Fall and Falefa Fall to name a few.
However, more impressive than all those waterfalls together are the variety of cave pools offering rejuvenating fresh-water dives to rinse of the warm sea water from the beaches. A good one to start with is the Piula Cave Pool, containing a body of water of an almost unrealistic shade of blue. Directly bordering a rather oily stretch of ocean water, you can float in the coolness while little fish pick your feet (free fish-spa experience!).
However, more impressive than all those waterfalls together are the variety of cave pools offering rejuvenating fresh-water dives to rinse of the warm sea water from the beaches. A good one to start with is the Piula Cave Pool, containing a body of water of an almost unrealistic shade of blue. Directly bordering a rather oily stretch of ocean water, you can float in the coolness while little fish pick your feet (free fish-spa experience!).
On top of that, it must be said, the best toilet of Samoa is to be found here. Shitting in serenity, worth a detour.
The most fun you’re undoubtedly gonna have is at the Papase’ea Sliding Rocks. It’s more bad-ass than it looks, as man, these rocks are high! I found myself among big groups of adults all slightly trembling by the mere idea, which meant that I had to do it. Come on, I’m a Leo after all, this is an opportunity to shine. Someone has to take the lead and demonstrate the level of enjoyment to be experienced. And I didn’t have to fake it for a bit, adrenaline is served in its purest form. Worth the blue butt cheeks!
But then... yes, I’m building it up, the mother of all cave pools! The Samoan answer to the Mexican ‘cenotes’ (sinkholes)! The one and only To-Sua Ocean Trench. The unchallenged highlight of Samoa, at least for me. You have to dig a bit in the wallet for this one, but wow, does it deliver.
The immaculate stretch of land of lush greenery and waving palm trees is abruptly cracked open by the force of nature, revealing deep intimidating gaps reaching straight to the core of the Earth.
Right here humankind came in, building a wooden ladder down the crystal clear waters deep down the sink holes. It’s perfect. Absolutely perfect. A gift from the world.
The immaculate stretch of land of lush greenery and waving palm trees is abruptly cracked open by the force of nature, revealing deep intimidating gaps reaching straight to the core of the Earth.
Right here humankind came in, building a wooden ladder down the crystal clear waters deep down the sink holes. It’s perfect. Absolutely perfect. A gift from the world.
I recommend to spend an entire day here, relaxing in the shades of the wooden ‘chill-houses’ the Samoans like to build at every scenic place that simply demands it. The Ocean Trench stretches far out, from well-kept gardens to panoramic vistas over the untamed coast line bringing the essence of the island alive. What a place. Sure, Samoa has its fair share of beaches, I visited most of them.
But do you prefer this
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... over this?
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In my humble opinion, the hills win it from the beaches on this Pacific Island. If you want to get to the green heart of Samoa with the minimal interruption from human-beings, the northern stretch of the island is the way to go. Make sure you make it all the way up to Lalomanu and loop back via the spectacular Richardson Road, a shot of overwhelming scenery and calm seclusion.
However, if this divine desolation is the overall theme you’re going for during your Samoa-visit, maybe Savai’i Island is the way to go. It’s almost 1,5x as big, but has only a tiny fraction of the population. You can drive for hours up north without hardly seeing any signs of civilization.
At 6AM my alarm drilled me out of bed. I wanted to catch the early ferry and explore Savai’i on a self-designed day trip. For a moderate fee I could take my motorbike along, allowing me to sightsee at a faster rate. Not fast enough, however, as Savai’i truly is bigger than you might expect from an island and five to six hours for sure isn’t enough to make the entire loop. Nevertheless, I managed to check off the highlight, the Alofaaga Blowholes next to the tiny village Taga. The name doesn’t promise much... the more the reality blows you off your feet (haha – blows – get it? – ahum, I was saying...). I found myself screaming (all alone) every time the massive force of the ocean pumps out a brutal fountain into the sky, causing an explosion of sounds and water. Forty minutes later my screams didn’t lower in volume, you just never get used to it.
Another possible stop along the way is the Afu Aau Fall. It’s funny they call it that, because once I paid the entrance price and wobbled my way into the forest I discovered the waterfall was nowhere to be found. That almost-photoshopped-blue-water-thing though? Yeah, ever present.
The boat brought me back to a place that already felt like home. I had a dinner to catch. A Samoan family had invited me over for their traditional Sunday meal of home-made taro and you simply don’t say ‘no’ to such unique invites. The preparation takes hours, the results are worth even some hours more.
Taro step-to-step:
1) Go to the local market to buy fresher than fresh produce..
2) Go to the "cooking hut" outside of the house, part of any Samoan home. Rasp the coconuts on some kind of chair specifically made to do so.
3) Squeeze the rasped coconut out with tauaga, some soft wood, until it gets the structure of a cream. The rasp is for the chickens..
4) Put the cream into banana leaves and fold into packages together with taro leaves, which taste like an upgrade of spinach.
5) Build a giant fire.
6) Put the coconut packages and taro in aluminium foil into the fire..
7) Cover fire with giant leaves.
8) Start weaving bags and buckets of palm leaves in the meantime.
9) When you're done, the meal is about ready.
10) Die out of pure happiness!
Taro step-to-step:
1) Go to the local market to buy fresher than fresh produce..
2) Go to the "cooking hut" outside of the house, part of any Samoan home. Rasp the coconuts on some kind of chair specifically made to do so.
3) Squeeze the rasped coconut out with tauaga, some soft wood, until it gets the structure of a cream. The rasp is for the chickens..
4) Put the cream into banana leaves and fold into packages together with taro leaves, which taste like an upgrade of spinach.
5) Build a giant fire.
6) Put the coconut packages and taro in aluminium foil into the fire..
7) Cover fire with giant leaves.
8) Start weaving bags and buckets of palm leaves in the meantime.
9) When you're done, the meal is about ready.
10) Die out of pure happiness!
I closed my eyes and let the true flavour of Samoa reach my senses.
My stay wasn’t long enough, it wouldn’t ever be, but I got a true taste. Of the country, of its landscapes, of its culture, of its people. A concretized dreamscape, from longing to memory.
My stay wasn’t long enough, it wouldn’t ever be, but I got a true taste. Of the country, of its landscapes, of its culture, of its people. A concretized dreamscape, from longing to memory.
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- Brazil's tropical island: Ilha Grande
- Off the coast of Mexico: Cozumel
- Caribbean adventures on the scenic San Blas islands, Panamá
- Volcanic endeavours at Isla de Ometepe, Nicaragua
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