Peloponnese
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The Peloponnese is almost too good to be true. It’s an enchanting conglomeration of untamed nature, sparkling white beaches, challenging mountain peaks and villages breathing the pure DNA of Greek culture. It’s dotted with UNESCO World Heritage Sites and comprises the renowned locations of mythological narratives, biblical scenes and the Ancient Greek heroic past. It frankly blows my mind that within one roadtrip you can visit places such as Sparta, Olympia, Corinth, Argos and Mycenae… places I studied for years in highschool during my Ancient Greek and Antique History classes, places I know from epic Hollywood movies. Its grounds walked on by Apostle St. Paul, King Leonidas and Helena of Sparta/Troy… presumably even by Hercules, Perseus and Medusa, the skies dotted with the ancient gods. Grounds that just lay there in southern Greece begging to be explored by you!
[Note: All archaeological sites mentioned in this article have 50% discounts on the ticket prices during off-season]
Loutraki
The very first stop on my 2,5-week Peleponnesos road trip was the appealing little beach town Loutraki, located just close enough to Athens to make for a swift beach getaway for the urbanites. Situated on the iconic Isthmus of Corinth and surrounded by natural spa’s, it sure has a lot to offer… However, it’s the Vouliagmeni Lagoon about 15km outside of town that left me breathless. Driving through a dreamscape of bright greenery climbing up the sheer cliffs, you eventually arrive at the lake... its crystal-clear surface reflecting the simmering winter sun. Tucked into an embrace of nature, the road allows you to continue to the end of the lagoon, onwards onto the peninsula surreptitiously stretching into the Gulf of Corinth. The road is promptly halted at the Melagavi Lighthouse. The beauty of this location seems almost unrealistically pristine, not belonging to Earth but derived from some religious narrative or folk myth… And it is: Let your gaze wonder down the cliffs onto the peninsula’s end and suddenly glimpse upon the Heraion of Perachora, the sanctuary of the goddess Hera. And not just any goddess: The guardian of women, marriage and family, daughter of the Titans Cronus and Rhea, as well as the wife and sister of the highest deity Zeus.
[Note: All archaeological sites mentioned in this article have 50% discounts on the ticket prices during off-season]
Loutraki
The very first stop on my 2,5-week Peleponnesos road trip was the appealing little beach town Loutraki, located just close enough to Athens to make for a swift beach getaway for the urbanites. Situated on the iconic Isthmus of Corinth and surrounded by natural spa’s, it sure has a lot to offer… However, it’s the Vouliagmeni Lagoon about 15km outside of town that left me breathless. Driving through a dreamscape of bright greenery climbing up the sheer cliffs, you eventually arrive at the lake... its crystal-clear surface reflecting the simmering winter sun. Tucked into an embrace of nature, the road allows you to continue to the end of the lagoon, onwards onto the peninsula surreptitiously stretching into the Gulf of Corinth. The road is promptly halted at the Melagavi Lighthouse. The beauty of this location seems almost unrealistically pristine, not belonging to Earth but derived from some religious narrative or folk myth… And it is: Let your gaze wonder down the cliffs onto the peninsula’s end and suddenly glimpse upon the Heraion of Perachora, the sanctuary of the goddess Hera. And not just any goddess: The guardian of women, marriage and family, daughter of the Titans Cronus and Rhea, as well as the wife and sister of the highest deity Zeus.
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Photo by Miles Watson Photography
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Corinth
Talking about places from folk tales and religious narratives… To me it’s such a surreal thing that you can visit a place like Corinth. Yes, from the Bible, that Corinth. Known from the New Testament’s First and Second Corinthians of St. Paul who resided here for 18 months, as well as from the Acts of the Apostles and Pausanias’ Description of Greece. It’s therefore quite hilarious to me that in classical times Corinth was famous for very different reasons… The Temple of Aphrodite, the goddess of love, employed over a thousand “hetairas” (which is a nice word for 'temple prostitutes') serving the wealthy merchants and powerful politicians of the city. At a later stage Corinth formed a city-state, its government allying with Sparta in both the Persian and Peloponnesian Wars. After the Macedonian Conquest of Greece, Acrocorinth (Upper Corinth) formed the seat of the Macedonian Garrison, taking advantage of its geographically easily defendable position, to be later liberated by the Achaean League. A century later, in 146BC, the Romans captured Corinth and demolished it entirely, rebuilding a new city in its place at 44BC, heavily fortifying it during the rise of the Eastern-Roman Byzantine Empire. Later the Franks, Venetians and Ottomans took a hold of it. Acrocorinth can nowadays still be visited, entirely free of charge… but don’t trust the opening times of Google Maps on this one: it closes at 3:30PM already.
The modern city of Corinth right next to it has a hard time matching up with its historical glory. However, as a more recent “wonder” one can sneak a peek at the 6.4 km long Canal of Corinth, connecting the Gulf of Corinth (Ionian Sea) with the Saronic Gulf (Aegean Sea). Oh, and when you run into the fountain of Pegasus, you might shortly contemplate Corinth’s mythological value: Pegasus, the winged divine horse, allegedly sprang from the blood of Medusa (snake-head-lady) when Perseus beheaded her. Everywhere he struck his hoof to the earth, a water spring spontaneously emerged.
Talking about places from folk tales and religious narratives… To me it’s such a surreal thing that you can visit a place like Corinth. Yes, from the Bible, that Corinth. Known from the New Testament’s First and Second Corinthians of St. Paul who resided here for 18 months, as well as from the Acts of the Apostles and Pausanias’ Description of Greece. It’s therefore quite hilarious to me that in classical times Corinth was famous for very different reasons… The Temple of Aphrodite, the goddess of love, employed over a thousand “hetairas” (which is a nice word for 'temple prostitutes') serving the wealthy merchants and powerful politicians of the city. At a later stage Corinth formed a city-state, its government allying with Sparta in both the Persian and Peloponnesian Wars. After the Macedonian Conquest of Greece, Acrocorinth (Upper Corinth) formed the seat of the Macedonian Garrison, taking advantage of its geographically easily defendable position, to be later liberated by the Achaean League. A century later, in 146BC, the Romans captured Corinth and demolished it entirely, rebuilding a new city in its place at 44BC, heavily fortifying it during the rise of the Eastern-Roman Byzantine Empire. Later the Franks, Venetians and Ottomans took a hold of it. Acrocorinth can nowadays still be visited, entirely free of charge… but don’t trust the opening times of Google Maps on this one: it closes at 3:30PM already.
The modern city of Corinth right next to it has a hard time matching up with its historical glory. However, as a more recent “wonder” one can sneak a peek at the 6.4 km long Canal of Corinth, connecting the Gulf of Corinth (Ionian Sea) with the Saronic Gulf (Aegean Sea). Oh, and when you run into the fountain of Pegasus, you might shortly contemplate Corinth’s mythological value: Pegasus, the winged divine horse, allegedly sprang from the blood of Medusa (snake-head-lady) when Perseus beheaded her. Everywhere he struck his hoof to the earth, a water spring spontaneously emerged.
Photo by Miles Watson Photography
Nemea
Nemea is historically famous from the Greek myth of the Nemean Lion who was killed by Hercules (Herakles), the Nemean Games and the Battle of the Nemea River in the Corinthian War (Sparta against a coalition of Athens, Argos, Corinth and Thebes). Nowadays, it contains an archaeological site referring to those times. I wish I could tell you more about Nemea, as that would mean I drank a whole lot of sublime Greek wine. However, there are unfortunately no accommodation options in Peloponnese’s prime wine region, which makes for a rather risky adventure if you still have to drive afterwards. Not the ideal road trip location, it pains me to say!
Mycenae & Argos
After six long high school years of studying Ancient Greek and Roman / Hellenistic Antique History, it’s not surprising that Mycenae was on my direct short-list when visiting the Peloponnese. As a teenager you learn about places like this in dusty school books, as an adult you just grab a car and drive to it… the fact that this is a thing I can just do remains hard to fathom, never extinguishing that ardent travel fire sparking inside of me.
The archaeological site of Mycenae, located in north-eastern Peloponnese, has been continuously inhabited from the Early Neolithic era on (5000-4000BC). However, its glory days were obtained in the second millennium BC, when Mycenae was one of the major centres of Greek civilization. As a military stronghold, it politically influenced the majority of southern Greece, including the Cyclades, Crete, Thebes, Athens and southwestern Anatolia. No wonder the period of 1600-1100BC is in Greek History referred to as “Mycenaean”. The ancient acropolis was built on a 274m high hill, ensuring a strategical defensive position… and can still be visited today, a big chunk of it miraculously intact. It’s an uncanny feeling to walk through that famous Lion Gate and gaze upon the palaces, grave circles and fortifications thought to be built by the one-eyed Cyclopean giants… as how else did they manage to move such gigantic blocks around?
More myths surrounded Mycenae, a place naturally appealing to the imagination. Tales tell about Perseus, the legendary founder. His mother Danaë was the daughter of Argos’ King Acrisius, who was warned by the Oracle of Delphi that one day he would be killed by his grandson. To prevent his daughter from getting pregnant, he imprisoned her in a bronze chamber with an open roof. That didn’t stop head god Zeus from getting in though, and in the form of a golden shower (ehm yeah) he knocked her up anyway. Once Perseus was born, King Acrisius locked mother and son up in a wooden chest, which he tossed into the sea. They washed ashore on the island of Seriphos, where fisherman Dictys raised Perseus to manhood. Dictys’ brother, King Polydectes, fell in love with Danaë, to the great discontent of Perseus. In an attempt to embarrass Perseus, Polydectes requested the head of snake-head Medusa, a banquet gift he thought could be never arranged… The rest is (mythological) history: With the help of the gods and a whole lot of courage, Perseus did slay Medusa… on the way back home stopping in Ethiopia to side-slay the sea serpent Cetus and claiming Princess Andromeda’s hand in marriage. Oh, and King Acrisius? Once Perseus returned to Argos, he went into voluntary exile in Thessaly, where King Teutamides from Larissa had organized some funeral games for his father. Obviously, Perseus was a participant, and accidentally killed his grandpa during an unfortunate (?) game of discus throw.
Talking about Argos, who by the way captured Mycenae in 468BC: It’s the oldest city in Europe, and one of the oldest worldwide. The city is crowned by the Byzantine-Venetian Larisa Castle, providing extraordinary views over the surrounding Argos Plains and even the Aegean Sea. Other interesting sights include the Panagia Katakekrymeni-Portokalousa Monastery (*takes a sip of water*) and the Monastery of Agia Marina.
Nemea
Nemea is historically famous from the Greek myth of the Nemean Lion who was killed by Hercules (Herakles), the Nemean Games and the Battle of the Nemea River in the Corinthian War (Sparta against a coalition of Athens, Argos, Corinth and Thebes). Nowadays, it contains an archaeological site referring to those times. I wish I could tell you more about Nemea, as that would mean I drank a whole lot of sublime Greek wine. However, there are unfortunately no accommodation options in Peloponnese’s prime wine region, which makes for a rather risky adventure if you still have to drive afterwards. Not the ideal road trip location, it pains me to say!
Mycenae & Argos
After six long high school years of studying Ancient Greek and Roman / Hellenistic Antique History, it’s not surprising that Mycenae was on my direct short-list when visiting the Peloponnese. As a teenager you learn about places like this in dusty school books, as an adult you just grab a car and drive to it… the fact that this is a thing I can just do remains hard to fathom, never extinguishing that ardent travel fire sparking inside of me.
The archaeological site of Mycenae, located in north-eastern Peloponnese, has been continuously inhabited from the Early Neolithic era on (5000-4000BC). However, its glory days were obtained in the second millennium BC, when Mycenae was one of the major centres of Greek civilization. As a military stronghold, it politically influenced the majority of southern Greece, including the Cyclades, Crete, Thebes, Athens and southwestern Anatolia. No wonder the period of 1600-1100BC is in Greek History referred to as “Mycenaean”. The ancient acropolis was built on a 274m high hill, ensuring a strategical defensive position… and can still be visited today, a big chunk of it miraculously intact. It’s an uncanny feeling to walk through that famous Lion Gate and gaze upon the palaces, grave circles and fortifications thought to be built by the one-eyed Cyclopean giants… as how else did they manage to move such gigantic blocks around?
More myths surrounded Mycenae, a place naturally appealing to the imagination. Tales tell about Perseus, the legendary founder. His mother Danaë was the daughter of Argos’ King Acrisius, who was warned by the Oracle of Delphi that one day he would be killed by his grandson. To prevent his daughter from getting pregnant, he imprisoned her in a bronze chamber with an open roof. That didn’t stop head god Zeus from getting in though, and in the form of a golden shower (ehm yeah) he knocked her up anyway. Once Perseus was born, King Acrisius locked mother and son up in a wooden chest, which he tossed into the sea. They washed ashore on the island of Seriphos, where fisherman Dictys raised Perseus to manhood. Dictys’ brother, King Polydectes, fell in love with Danaë, to the great discontent of Perseus. In an attempt to embarrass Perseus, Polydectes requested the head of snake-head Medusa, a banquet gift he thought could be never arranged… The rest is (mythological) history: With the help of the gods and a whole lot of courage, Perseus did slay Medusa… on the way back home stopping in Ethiopia to side-slay the sea serpent Cetus and claiming Princess Andromeda’s hand in marriage. Oh, and King Acrisius? Once Perseus returned to Argos, he went into voluntary exile in Thessaly, where King Teutamides from Larissa had organized some funeral games for his father. Obviously, Perseus was a participant, and accidentally killed his grandpa during an unfortunate (?) game of discus throw.
Talking about Argos, who by the way captured Mycenae in 468BC: It’s the oldest city in Europe, and one of the oldest worldwide. The city is crowned by the Byzantine-Venetian Larisa Castle, providing extraordinary views over the surrounding Argos Plains and even the Aegean Sea. Other interesting sights include the Panagia Katakekrymeni-Portokalousa Monastery (*takes a sip of water*) and the Monastery of Agia Marina.
All the good photos by Miles Watson Photography
Nafplio
Everyone told me to go to Nafplio. So for once, I listened. Turns out, that can work in your favor sometimes: This place is precious, its mass tourism aside. Just like literally every destination in Greece, also Nafplio has an intriguing history: Inhabited since ancient times, it was mainly known as the port of Argos (back then called “Nauplia”, after Poseidon’s son Nauplius). One of the world’s first travelbloggers, Pausanias, reported that its citizens were in fact Egyptians. In the centuries that followed, the area changed hands to the Argives, Byzantines, Franks, Venetians and Ottomans, who all amended it a bit to their liking and built the impressive fortifications which can still be seen today. During the Greek War of Independence (against the Ottomans), Nafplio was besieged for over a year due to its role as an Ottoman stronghold. Only forced starvation led the Ottomans to surrender, after which Nafplio became the seat of the provisional government due to its strong fortifications. In recent decades, tourism has become the main focus, visitors flocking to Nafplio to admire its idyllic architecture and make little boat trips to the Venetian Bourtzi Castle.
Another inevitable sight in Nafplio’s surroundings is the Epidauros Theatre… one of the best-preserved ones of Ancient Greece, and famous for its superb acoustics. The Sanctuary of Asklepios it forms a part of, is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
Nafplio
Everyone told me to go to Nafplio. So for once, I listened. Turns out, that can work in your favor sometimes: This place is precious, its mass tourism aside. Just like literally every destination in Greece, also Nafplio has an intriguing history: Inhabited since ancient times, it was mainly known as the port of Argos (back then called “Nauplia”, after Poseidon’s son Nauplius). One of the world’s first travelbloggers, Pausanias, reported that its citizens were in fact Egyptians. In the centuries that followed, the area changed hands to the Argives, Byzantines, Franks, Venetians and Ottomans, who all amended it a bit to their liking and built the impressive fortifications which can still be seen today. During the Greek War of Independence (against the Ottomans), Nafplio was besieged for over a year due to its role as an Ottoman stronghold. Only forced starvation led the Ottomans to surrender, after which Nafplio became the seat of the provisional government due to its strong fortifications. In recent decades, tourism has become the main focus, visitors flocking to Nafplio to admire its idyllic architecture and make little boat trips to the Venetian Bourtzi Castle.
Another inevitable sight in Nafplio’s surroundings is the Epidauros Theatre… one of the best-preserved ones of Ancient Greece, and famous for its superb acoustics. The Sanctuary of Asklepios it forms a part of, is listed as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
All the good photos by Miles Watson Photography
Monemvasia
You drive down the soothing landscapes of the Cape Melea Peninsula and suddenly your eye catches a rather odd spectacle… an island, with a small strip of land connected to the mainland, strenuously rising upwards in the very middle, like a mountain somehow drifting off the coast. What the hell is this? It sounds like you reached Monemvasia, an antique Minoan trading post turned into a strategic fortress (initially against the Slavic and Avaric invasions). Merely looking at its intimidating, yet simultaneously alluring appearance, makes it easy to understand the attraction it had on subsequently the Byzantines, Ottomans and even the Pope. By 1464 however, the local inhabitants were about done with the frail pope failing to defend their island, so they voluntarily admitted to the Venetian garrison, leading to moderate prosperity. Since then it alternated ownership between the Venetians and Ottomans, until the Greek War of Independence finally set the island free. Nowadays, the island’s unusual geography, as well as the fortress and the restored Byzantine / Ottoman remains on its upper plateau, attract tourists from all over the world. With reason!
Monemvasia
You drive down the soothing landscapes of the Cape Melea Peninsula and suddenly your eye catches a rather odd spectacle… an island, with a small strip of land connected to the mainland, strenuously rising upwards in the very middle, like a mountain somehow drifting off the coast. What the hell is this? It sounds like you reached Monemvasia, an antique Minoan trading post turned into a strategic fortress (initially against the Slavic and Avaric invasions). Merely looking at its intimidating, yet simultaneously alluring appearance, makes it easy to understand the attraction it had on subsequently the Byzantines, Ottomans and even the Pope. By 1464 however, the local inhabitants were about done with the frail pope failing to defend their island, so they voluntarily admitted to the Venetian garrison, leading to moderate prosperity. Since then it alternated ownership between the Venetians and Ottomans, until the Greek War of Independence finally set the island free. Nowadays, the island’s unusual geography, as well as the fortress and the restored Byzantine / Ottoman remains on its upper plateau, attract tourists from all over the world. With reason!
Mani Peninsula
Every expectation of the promised magic of the Peloponnese will be irrefutably met when exploring the Mani Peninsula. People had told me about the rugged nature of the Peleponnesos, its remote feeling, isolated from humanity. If I’m being honest with you, up until now I didn’t quite experience that yet. In fact, it’s the ancient civilizations and archaeological remains thereof that had made the Peloponnese such an attractive destination so far, mixed with the vibrant towns of contemporary times. Sure, the natural aspect had been “fine” all along, but not in the overwhelming manner as I experienced in Mani. There is, hands down, not one single spot along the entire coastline that isn’t over-the-top scenic. It’s simply a parade of highlight after highlight after highlight.
Every village you’ll pass along the way will generate a blissful smile on your face, but there’s one town that truly stands out: Vathia, home of the towerhouses. This location acquired a reputation for its fierce defence of their lands against the Ottoman invasion. They really took that task seriously, turning their houses into actual towers, allowing them to spot the enemy from a distance and bombard them with the canons peeking through the loopholes of the battlements. With success, as when the rest of Greece tumbled under the Ottoman pressure, Mani maintained a degree of autonomy not experienced elsewhere in the country. As such, the peninsula sharply contrasts with the rest of Greece, as it was able to preserve its own culture and architecture, fenced off from external influences.
You can spend at least a week in the Mani Peninsula alone… and if you have the time available, I strongly recommend doing so!
Every expectation of the promised magic of the Peloponnese will be irrefutably met when exploring the Mani Peninsula. People had told me about the rugged nature of the Peleponnesos, its remote feeling, isolated from humanity. If I’m being honest with you, up until now I didn’t quite experience that yet. In fact, it’s the ancient civilizations and archaeological remains thereof that had made the Peloponnese such an attractive destination so far, mixed with the vibrant towns of contemporary times. Sure, the natural aspect had been “fine” all along, but not in the overwhelming manner as I experienced in Mani. There is, hands down, not one single spot along the entire coastline that isn’t over-the-top scenic. It’s simply a parade of highlight after highlight after highlight.
Every village you’ll pass along the way will generate a blissful smile on your face, but there’s one town that truly stands out: Vathia, home of the towerhouses. This location acquired a reputation for its fierce defence of their lands against the Ottoman invasion. They really took that task seriously, turning their houses into actual towers, allowing them to spot the enemy from a distance and bombard them with the canons peeking through the loopholes of the battlements. With success, as when the rest of Greece tumbled under the Ottoman pressure, Mani maintained a degree of autonomy not experienced elsewhere in the country. As such, the peninsula sharply contrasts with the rest of Greece, as it was able to preserve its own culture and architecture, fenced off from external influences.
You can spend at least a week in the Mani Peninsula alone… and if you have the time available, I strongly recommend doing so!
Sparta
A place like Sparta obviously doesn’t need an introduction. But as you’re reading a travelblog covering this destination, I’ll bloody do it anyway. Even though the first evidence of human settlement dates all the way back to the Middle Neolithic Period, it’s the Second Messenian War that truly put Sparta on the map as the main power of both the Peloponnesos and the rest of Greece. Living up to their self-proclaimed aim to function as the “Defenders of Hellenism”, the upcoming centuries they fought a long series of epic wars. The most famous one is perhaps the Battle of Thermopylae, led by King Leonidas in 480BC against the massive Persian army under Xerxes. Due to an advance warning from their dethroned King Demaratus they consulted the Oracle of Delphi, where the priestess warned that either a Spartan King had to die or Sparta would be destroyed. The prophecy was fulfilled when Leonidas died in battle. Familiar storyline? Yup, it’s covered in the Hollywood movie “300”, referring to the mere 300 Spartans participating in the battle (together with 400 Thebans and 700 Thespians). Another renowned event is the Battle of Plataea, when Sparta led a Greek alliance against the Persians… their victory ending the Greco-Persian War. Not to mention the Spartan force during the Peloponnesian War, when the traditional land power Sparta acquired a navy and overpowered Athens… putting an end to the dominant Athenian Empire. Tough little bastards, renowned for their brutal strength and supreme warfare!
Where most Greece / Peloponnese destinations are surrounded by ancient Greek mythology, Sparta is subject to modern narratives of bravery and heroism. From tv shows, video games and movies such as The 300 Spartans, Troy and Meet the Spartans… to modern-day expressions (in the Dutch language we say something is “Spartan” if it’s deprived of any comfort or luxury, used in a context when someone has to merciless work their ass off to obtain his/her goals). The archaeological site of Ancient Sparta can still be visited today, which is needless to say a must on your itinerary.
A place like Sparta obviously doesn’t need an introduction. But as you’re reading a travelblog covering this destination, I’ll bloody do it anyway. Even though the first evidence of human settlement dates all the way back to the Middle Neolithic Period, it’s the Second Messenian War that truly put Sparta on the map as the main power of both the Peloponnesos and the rest of Greece. Living up to their self-proclaimed aim to function as the “Defenders of Hellenism”, the upcoming centuries they fought a long series of epic wars. The most famous one is perhaps the Battle of Thermopylae, led by King Leonidas in 480BC against the massive Persian army under Xerxes. Due to an advance warning from their dethroned King Demaratus they consulted the Oracle of Delphi, where the priestess warned that either a Spartan King had to die or Sparta would be destroyed. The prophecy was fulfilled when Leonidas died in battle. Familiar storyline? Yup, it’s covered in the Hollywood movie “300”, referring to the mere 300 Spartans participating in the battle (together with 400 Thebans and 700 Thespians). Another renowned event is the Battle of Plataea, when Sparta led a Greek alliance against the Persians… their victory ending the Greco-Persian War. Not to mention the Spartan force during the Peloponnesian War, when the traditional land power Sparta acquired a navy and overpowered Athens… putting an end to the dominant Athenian Empire. Tough little bastards, renowned for their brutal strength and supreme warfare!
Where most Greece / Peloponnese destinations are surrounded by ancient Greek mythology, Sparta is subject to modern narratives of bravery and heroism. From tv shows, video games and movies such as The 300 Spartans, Troy and Meet the Spartans… to modern-day expressions (in the Dutch language we say something is “Spartan” if it’s deprived of any comfort or luxury, used in a context when someone has to merciless work their ass off to obtain his/her goals). The archaeological site of Ancient Sparta can still be visited today, which is needless to say a must on your itinerary.
Kalamata
Welcome in the Peloponnese’s second most populous city (after Patras). Unlike its many Peloponnese counterparts, it didn’t play such an important role in Greek antiquity and stayed pretty much in obscurity until well into the Byzantine era. After being conquered by the Franks, it was subject to a similar powerplay between the Venetians and Ottomans just like in the rest of Greece. However, once liberated, Kalamata grew out to be one of the most crucial ports in the Mediterranean Sea. Its main export products? Raisins, olives and olive oil. So what you’re gonna do when visiting Kalamata? That’s right, visit an olive oil factory! Ben Olive Oil is a family-owned estate situated just north of the city, specialized in the PDO-protected Kalamata olives, the high quality of the region’s product serving as a brand name and product category on its own… I tried a few hands full of those delicious bastards: Proper mouthgasm, hands down the best olives I’ve ever eaten! Besides olive plantations, they also grow a different type of olives dedicated to produce extra virgin olive oil: The healthiest type made from pure, cold-pressed olives (opposed to a blend), in which Greece excels on a global level. During the engaging, interactive tour you are led through the process of picking the olives (by the means of shaking the trees out on a net), the cleaning with air and water, the smashing of the olives (incl. seeds!) into a yummy smelling dough, the centrifugation into pulp and the final filtration into the freshest-of-fresh olive oil. So that’s how that goes! Educational, captivating… and delicious!*
* You can book an olive oil tour here. Keep in mind that you need a vehicle to reach the estate, which is located on the route from Nafplio to Olympia (that said, I suggest to absolutely not miss out on the Mani Peninsula, which you will if this is the route you drive).
Other sights in Kalamata include the Benakeion Archaeological Museum, the Folk Art Museum, the Villehadouin Castle, the Kalograion Monastery and of course the illustrious Port of Kalamata.
Welcome in the Peloponnese’s second most populous city (after Patras). Unlike its many Peloponnese counterparts, it didn’t play such an important role in Greek antiquity and stayed pretty much in obscurity until well into the Byzantine era. After being conquered by the Franks, it was subject to a similar powerplay between the Venetians and Ottomans just like in the rest of Greece. However, once liberated, Kalamata grew out to be one of the most crucial ports in the Mediterranean Sea. Its main export products? Raisins, olives and olive oil. So what you’re gonna do when visiting Kalamata? That’s right, visit an olive oil factory! Ben Olive Oil is a family-owned estate situated just north of the city, specialized in the PDO-protected Kalamata olives, the high quality of the region’s product serving as a brand name and product category on its own… I tried a few hands full of those delicious bastards: Proper mouthgasm, hands down the best olives I’ve ever eaten! Besides olive plantations, they also grow a different type of olives dedicated to produce extra virgin olive oil: The healthiest type made from pure, cold-pressed olives (opposed to a blend), in which Greece excels on a global level. During the engaging, interactive tour you are led through the process of picking the olives (by the means of shaking the trees out on a net), the cleaning with air and water, the smashing of the olives (incl. seeds!) into a yummy smelling dough, the centrifugation into pulp and the final filtration into the freshest-of-fresh olive oil. So that’s how that goes! Educational, captivating… and delicious!*
* You can book an olive oil tour here. Keep in mind that you need a vehicle to reach the estate, which is located on the route from Nafplio to Olympia (that said, I suggest to absolutely not miss out on the Mani Peninsula, which you will if this is the route you drive).
Other sights in Kalamata include the Benakeion Archaeological Museum, the Folk Art Museum, the Villehadouin Castle, the Kalograion Monastery and of course the illustrious Port of Kalamata.
Messenian Peninsula
Looking at the shape of the Peloponnese, you can almost detect some kind of claw grabbing southwards into the Mediterranean… it’s first finger formed by the Messenian Peninsula. Compared to the Mani or Cape Melea Peninsula you’re in for an entirely different experience. Less savage untamed nature, more immaculate beaches… alternated with sights such as the Polilimnio / Neda Waterfall and the Temple of Apollo Epikourios. I’m not much of a beach-goer (I get bored too quickly), so to me undoubtedly the most interesting sight is the Methoni Castle, which played a significant role in the Byzantine, Venetian and Ottoman history. Its fortunate, naturally protected location on rocky surface right at the sea, separated from the mainland by an artificial moat, provided numerous strategic advantages when it comes to battle and warfare. Not to mention the commercial and navigational benefits. The prison tower surrounded by the rough sea speaks to the imagination (I had a proper Game of Thrones moment inside those walls, and no one’s gonna take that away from me). It’s a location that knew victories and tragedies, for example when the Ottomans under Sultan Bayezid II decapitated all local men and sold all women and children into slavery. It’s already an immensely interesting place to visit as it is, but now imagine ancient artefacts, pottery and bones (!) just lying around the castle walls… because that’s exactly what’s happening. Madness.
Another interesting stop on the Messenian stretch is the Giolova Lagoon along the perfectly round Voidokilia Beach: a nesting ground for the loggerhead sea turtle (caretta caretta), a birding area for flamingo’s (somehow they have ‘em here) and an archaeological site of ancient tombs.
Looking at the shape of the Peloponnese, you can almost detect some kind of claw grabbing southwards into the Mediterranean… it’s first finger formed by the Messenian Peninsula. Compared to the Mani or Cape Melea Peninsula you’re in for an entirely different experience. Less savage untamed nature, more immaculate beaches… alternated with sights such as the Polilimnio / Neda Waterfall and the Temple of Apollo Epikourios. I’m not much of a beach-goer (I get bored too quickly), so to me undoubtedly the most interesting sight is the Methoni Castle, which played a significant role in the Byzantine, Venetian and Ottoman history. Its fortunate, naturally protected location on rocky surface right at the sea, separated from the mainland by an artificial moat, provided numerous strategic advantages when it comes to battle and warfare. Not to mention the commercial and navigational benefits. The prison tower surrounded by the rough sea speaks to the imagination (I had a proper Game of Thrones moment inside those walls, and no one’s gonna take that away from me). It’s a location that knew victories and tragedies, for example when the Ottomans under Sultan Bayezid II decapitated all local men and sold all women and children into slavery. It’s already an immensely interesting place to visit as it is, but now imagine ancient artefacts, pottery and bones (!) just lying around the castle walls… because that’s exactly what’s happening. Madness.
Another interesting stop on the Messenian stretch is the Giolova Lagoon along the perfectly round Voidokilia Beach: a nesting ground for the loggerhead sea turtle (caretta caretta), a birding area for flamingo’s (somehow they have ‘em here) and an archaeological site of ancient tombs.
Olympia
You can actually visit Ancient Olympia. If you’re not entirely freaking out by reading these mere words I don’t even want to hang out with you. The area of Olympia, which was only uncovered in 1766, was already inhabited during Mycenaean times, settlements evolving gradually on the southern slopes of Mount Kronos. However, the Olympic Games were only established at 776BC, slowly acquiring fame as its reputation rapidly spread throughout the ancient world (a second reason being the renowned oracle located on the same grounds). The sanctuary, primarily dedicated to Zeus, was separated by a wall enclosing the temples and cult-related buildings, leaving the facilities for the athletes and visitors outside the premises.
When visiting Ancient Olympia (I still can’t believe I f*cking did that!), a selection of main constructions will undoubtedly catch your eye. First of all, the Gymnasium: a training area for discus- and javelin throwing as well as sprinting. A bit further down the road you’ll pass the remains of the Prytaneion, the seat of the dignitaries of the sanctuary who were responsible for the sacrifices carried out at the altars. The interior of the building housed the hearth of goddess Hestia, where the sacred eternal flame was lit. Since the Modern Olympics, this is the spot of the Ceremony of the Lighting of the Olympic Flame, carried on to the Olympic Torch to be carried to the hosting city. This is however not nestled in any ancient tradition. I of course had to go for a sprint in the ancient Stadium, providing space to no less than 45,000 spectators. The Palaestra was used as a practice area for boxing, wrestling and jumping, as well as for the undressing, lubricating and powdering of the bodies of the athletes. Because oh yeah, in cause you didn’t know: The athletes used to be butt naked (gymno = naked), covered in oil: One big flippedy-flap galore!
[…]
Sorry, my mind shortly drifted off there.
Where were we? Buildings, right! Did you know one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World was actually located here? Was, as the 12 meter high gold- and ivory statue of Zeus unfortunately collapsed with the rest of the Temple during the earthquakes of 522 and 551AD. Its pediments remained relatively intact and can be admired in the adjacent Archaeological Museum (included in the ticket price).* The museum contains an interesting collection of extremely well-preserved artefacts, including the bronze votive offerings and figurines of pilgrims.
* The two pediments were decorated with marble sculptures depicting mythological scenes: On the eastern side the contest between Pelops and Oinomaos; on the western side the fight between Lapiths and the Centaurs. The labours of Hercules were depicted on the twelve interior stabs.
Another interesting museum, going deeper into the origins and rituals (in English), is the Museum of the History of the Olympic Games. The first contemporary Olympic Games were hosted in 1896 at the ancient Panathenaic stadium of Athens. Read more about that sight in this article.
You can actually visit Ancient Olympia. If you’re not entirely freaking out by reading these mere words I don’t even want to hang out with you. The area of Olympia, which was only uncovered in 1766, was already inhabited during Mycenaean times, settlements evolving gradually on the southern slopes of Mount Kronos. However, the Olympic Games were only established at 776BC, slowly acquiring fame as its reputation rapidly spread throughout the ancient world (a second reason being the renowned oracle located on the same grounds). The sanctuary, primarily dedicated to Zeus, was separated by a wall enclosing the temples and cult-related buildings, leaving the facilities for the athletes and visitors outside the premises.
When visiting Ancient Olympia (I still can’t believe I f*cking did that!), a selection of main constructions will undoubtedly catch your eye. First of all, the Gymnasium: a training area for discus- and javelin throwing as well as sprinting. A bit further down the road you’ll pass the remains of the Prytaneion, the seat of the dignitaries of the sanctuary who were responsible for the sacrifices carried out at the altars. The interior of the building housed the hearth of goddess Hestia, where the sacred eternal flame was lit. Since the Modern Olympics, this is the spot of the Ceremony of the Lighting of the Olympic Flame, carried on to the Olympic Torch to be carried to the hosting city. This is however not nestled in any ancient tradition. I of course had to go for a sprint in the ancient Stadium, providing space to no less than 45,000 spectators. The Palaestra was used as a practice area for boxing, wrestling and jumping, as well as for the undressing, lubricating and powdering of the bodies of the athletes. Because oh yeah, in cause you didn’t know: The athletes used to be butt naked (gymno = naked), covered in oil: One big flippedy-flap galore!
[…]
Sorry, my mind shortly drifted off there.
Where were we? Buildings, right! Did you know one of the Seven Wonders of the Ancient World was actually located here? Was, as the 12 meter high gold- and ivory statue of Zeus unfortunately collapsed with the rest of the Temple during the earthquakes of 522 and 551AD. Its pediments remained relatively intact and can be admired in the adjacent Archaeological Museum (included in the ticket price).* The museum contains an interesting collection of extremely well-preserved artefacts, including the bronze votive offerings and figurines of pilgrims.
* The two pediments were decorated with marble sculptures depicting mythological scenes: On the eastern side the contest between Pelops and Oinomaos; on the western side the fight between Lapiths and the Centaurs. The labours of Hercules were depicted on the twelve interior stabs.
Another interesting museum, going deeper into the origins and rituals (in English), is the Museum of the History of the Olympic Games. The first contemporary Olympic Games were hosted in 1896 at the ancient Panathenaic stadium of Athens. Read more about that sight in this article.
* Hiking idea: The athletes had to travel to Elis, the headquarters of the organising city, one month before the beginning of the games. This time was used to check the origins and physical condition of the athletes, so that they could exclude those who were incapable of matching up to the fierce competition. They not only assessed their ability and talent, but also their ethics and character. From Elis, the athletes walked to Olympia to start competing. So can you!
** An entirely unrelated sight: the free of charge Archimedes Museum, dedicated to the greatest mathematician, geometer and astronomer of all times, inspiring Da Vinci, Galileo and Newton. The privately funded museum contains fun games and experiments to easily explain the genius findings of Archimedes.
Strofylia National Park
The Peloponnese has one national park. It’s located on the north-western edge rather close to Patras, right next to an airport. Out of all the awe-inspiring natural treasures in the southern Peloponnese, this is perhaps the most unlikely location. Up until the last moment, when you have to deviate from a dull highway, it seems like you made a mistake… But no, there it suddenly is: a heavenly coastal oak/pine forest, spreading out over approximately 2200 hectares, ending in a pleasant white sand beach bordering the Ionian Sea. Strofylia is the largest forest of its kind in Greece and one of Europe’s biggest, together with its wetlands forming an ecosystem attracting approximately 270 different bird species. Other animals to be found include turtles, weasels and foxes.
Find the hiking trails here. Accommodation and campsites can be found here.
Just south of Strofylia you will find the harbour town of Kyllini, which provides ferry connections to the Ionian Islands Poros and Zakynthos. I spent a few weeks in the latter during a family holiday, and thoroughly enjoyed this nature- and beach getaway. The island is the base of yet another national park: the Zakynthos Marine Park, established to protect the loggerhead sea turtles. I recommend the remarkably user-friendly Ferry Scanner to easily plan you ferry connections for island-hopping. (Kefalonia and Corfu can be reached from Patras).
Patras
Yeah, not a fan. I don’t know who’s in the committee of selecting the “European Capital of Culture” each year, as somehow they also pushed industrial hub Thessaloniki forward on another occasion, but somehow commercial port town Patras grabbed that title in 2006. I guess it’s just a way of somehow gaining a chunk of the tourist masses that are all over literally everywhere else in Greece (because ‘literally everywhere else in Greece’ is worth visiting, and Patras and Thessaloniki aren’t). Sure, you have some nice-looking church, the Ekklisía Tou Agíou Andréa… and there’s this tiny, rather underwhelming Castle right next to the Rio-Antirio Bridge (connecting the Peloponnese with the mainland, for a rather pricy fare). But these are so-so sights you can see everywhere else in the country... better-preserved and historically more significant versions. Skip!
** An entirely unrelated sight: the free of charge Archimedes Museum, dedicated to the greatest mathematician, geometer and astronomer of all times, inspiring Da Vinci, Galileo and Newton. The privately funded museum contains fun games and experiments to easily explain the genius findings of Archimedes.
Strofylia National Park
The Peloponnese has one national park. It’s located on the north-western edge rather close to Patras, right next to an airport. Out of all the awe-inspiring natural treasures in the southern Peloponnese, this is perhaps the most unlikely location. Up until the last moment, when you have to deviate from a dull highway, it seems like you made a mistake… But no, there it suddenly is: a heavenly coastal oak/pine forest, spreading out over approximately 2200 hectares, ending in a pleasant white sand beach bordering the Ionian Sea. Strofylia is the largest forest of its kind in Greece and one of Europe’s biggest, together with its wetlands forming an ecosystem attracting approximately 270 different bird species. Other animals to be found include turtles, weasels and foxes.
Find the hiking trails here. Accommodation and campsites can be found here.
Just south of Strofylia you will find the harbour town of Kyllini, which provides ferry connections to the Ionian Islands Poros and Zakynthos. I spent a few weeks in the latter during a family holiday, and thoroughly enjoyed this nature- and beach getaway. The island is the base of yet another national park: the Zakynthos Marine Park, established to protect the loggerhead sea turtles. I recommend the remarkably user-friendly Ferry Scanner to easily plan you ferry connections for island-hopping. (Kefalonia and Corfu can be reached from Patras).
Patras
Yeah, not a fan. I don’t know who’s in the committee of selecting the “European Capital of Culture” each year, as somehow they also pushed industrial hub Thessaloniki forward on another occasion, but somehow commercial port town Patras grabbed that title in 2006. I guess it’s just a way of somehow gaining a chunk of the tourist masses that are all over literally everywhere else in Greece (because ‘literally everywhere else in Greece’ is worth visiting, and Patras and Thessaloniki aren’t). Sure, you have some nice-looking church, the Ekklisía Tou Agíou Andréa… and there’s this tiny, rather underwhelming Castle right next to the Rio-Antirio Bridge (connecting the Peloponnese with the mainland, for a rather pricy fare). But these are so-so sights you can see everywhere else in the country... better-preserved and historically more significant versions. Skip!
Kalavryta
The unremarkable appearance of Patras spreads out like a cancer towards Peloponnese’s north-eastern coast. The entire coastal drive down to Diakopto is one long eyesore, impossibly matching up with all the splendours of the south. Diakopto could also be qualified as a destination to be ignored, if it weren’t for the scenic train ride towards the mountain village Kalavryta, cutting straight through the Vouraikos Gorge. This section can also be driven by car, representing one of the quaintest stretches of the Peloponnese roadtrip. Kalavryta itself is everything you expect from a mountain town, including adorable wooden houses, friendly villagers and marvellous natural backdrops*. Needless to say, this provides for inviting hikes in the sunny seasons, whereas a small ski resort opens its doors during winter. More natural treasures dotting its pleasant surroundings include the unusually shaped Planitero Forest** and the captivating Cave of Lakes. The latter is one of the most important caves of Greece, famous for its rich speleothems, gours and curtain-shaped stalactites, but especially for its 13 underground lakes.
* A cute little place with a very gloomy history. On 13 December 1943 (WWII), the entire male population of Kalavryta was executed by Nazi soldiers, as an act of revenge against the Greek national resistance. A monument marks this place of tragedy, whereas a museum and several statues in the town commemorate the sadness and desperation of the villagers.
** The shapes of the tree branches growing into odd directions reminded me of the Hocia Bacu Forest in Cluj Napoca (Romania)… a place suspected of alien and supernatural activity.
The unremarkable appearance of Patras spreads out like a cancer towards Peloponnese’s north-eastern coast. The entire coastal drive down to Diakopto is one long eyesore, impossibly matching up with all the splendours of the south. Diakopto could also be qualified as a destination to be ignored, if it weren’t for the scenic train ride towards the mountain village Kalavryta, cutting straight through the Vouraikos Gorge. This section can also be driven by car, representing one of the quaintest stretches of the Peloponnese roadtrip. Kalavryta itself is everything you expect from a mountain town, including adorable wooden houses, friendly villagers and marvellous natural backdrops*. Needless to say, this provides for inviting hikes in the sunny seasons, whereas a small ski resort opens its doors during winter. More natural treasures dotting its pleasant surroundings include the unusually shaped Planitero Forest** and the captivating Cave of Lakes. The latter is one of the most important caves of Greece, famous for its rich speleothems, gours and curtain-shaped stalactites, but especially for its 13 underground lakes.
* A cute little place with a very gloomy history. On 13 December 1943 (WWII), the entire male population of Kalavryta was executed by Nazi soldiers, as an act of revenge against the Greek national resistance. A monument marks this place of tragedy, whereas a museum and several statues in the town commemorate the sadness and desperation of the villagers.
** The shapes of the tree branches growing into odd directions reminded me of the Hocia Bacu Forest in Cluj Napoca (Romania)… a place suspected of alien and supernatural activity.
Quick Budget Fact Overview
Greece Facts
Short History Recap
3000-1400BC: Cycladic / Early Bronze Age – Cyclades settle in Asia Minor. 2100-1500BC: Minoan culture. 1400BC: Minoan centres destroyed by natural elements and abandoned. 1400-750BC: Mycenaean / Dorian Period – Mycenaeans from Peloponnese rise to prominence. 1150BC: Dorians conquer large areas of Peloponnese. 776BC: First Olympic Games. 750-550BC: Archaic Period – City-states Athens / Sparta / Thebes / Corinth compete for supremacy. 550BC: Sparta forms Peloponnesian League, rivalry with Athens. 500-338BC: Classical Period – Persia’s King Darius attempts to conquer Greece, but is defeated by Athenian army at Marathon. 481-479BC: Darius’ son Xerxes invades – Spartan king Leonidas (small army) finally falls at Battle of Thermopylae. Athens captured, but sinks Persian fleet off Salamis in surprise attack. 431-404BC: Peloponnesian Wars. Sparta controls most of Greece. 338BC: Philip II of Macedonia defeats Athens/Thebes at Battle of Chaeronea and unites all Greek cities except of Sparta. 338BC-395AD: Hellenistic / Roman Period – Philip II assassinated. His son, Alexander the Great, develops Greece into imperial power with Macedonia at governmental centre. 323BC: Diadochi divide empire after Alexander’s death. Centres of power shift to Middle East / Egypt. 320-275BC: Rome emerges as major power. 146BC: Greece province of Roman Empire. 295-1453AD Byzantine Period – Roman Empire divided in East (Byzantine) and West. 1204: Crusaders attack Constantinople. Franks / Venetians divide Greek territory. 1452: Defeat Byzantine Empire by Ottoman Empire: 1453-1821. 1821-’29: Greek War of Independence from Ottomans. ’12-’13: First Balkan War: Greece wins Epirus, Macedonia, Crete and North Aegean Islands from Ottomans / Second Balkan War: Greece wins Thrace from Bulgaria. 1821 onwards: Modern Times. 1917: Start WWI, Greece with Allies. ’19-’22: Greco-Turkish War (Greek failed invasion of Smyrna). ’24: Monarchy abolished, Greek republic. ’35: Monarchy restored. ’36: General Metaxas starts right-winged dictatorship as PM. ’40: Start WWII, Greece initially neutral – Mussolini attacks Greece from Albania, but is repelled. ’41: Nazi Germany - Resistance by communists and royalists. ’44: Collaboration with UK to repel Nazis. ’46-’49: Greek Civil War between US/UK-backed governmental Hellenic Army and communist SU/Bulgaria/Albania/Yugoslavia-backed Democratic Army of Greece (1st won).’52: Parliamentary kingdom. Joins NATO. ’67: Military coup. ’73: Republic again. Coup. ’74: Coup against president of Cyprus. Turkish invasion / occupation Northern Cyprus. ’75: Parliamentary republic. ’81: Joins EU. ’91: Former Yugoslavian Republic of Macedonia declares independence. Greek objects to name and flag due to territorial claims of Greek province Macedonia. ’96: Tension with Turkey over Aegean islet. ’99: Earthquake Athens kills dozens. 2002: Euro replaces drachma. ’04: Athens hosts Olympic Games. Formal warning EC: Greece falsified budget deficit data in run-up to eurozone. ’08: Greece blocks Macedonia’s bid to join NATO over unresolved name-dispute. ’09-‘15: Debt crisis – massive debt caused by Greece. Long series of EU + Eurozone rescue bailouts and loans (hundreds of billions of euros) and debt-cuts in exchange for austerity and spending cuts programs, continuously accompanied by mass protests. ’13: Highest unemployment rate EU (26.8% - ’14: 28%). ’18: Agreement with Macedonia after 27-year-long name dispute (Macedonia vs. North Macedonia).
Budget Bites
Greece Facts
- Capital: Athens
- Language: Greek
- Population: ± 10.72mln
- Sq km: ± 131,957
- Currency: Euro (€)
- Electricity Outlet: C and F / 230V / 50Hz. Check here!
- Country Code Phone: +30
- Emergency Phone: 112 (general), 166 (ambulance), 199 (fire), 100 (police), 171 (tourist police)
- Visa: Check out the visa requirements here.
- Vaccinations: Covid
- Climate Volos: Dry-Summer Subtropical (Csa)
- High season: June-September.
Short History Recap
3000-1400BC: Cycladic / Early Bronze Age – Cyclades settle in Asia Minor. 2100-1500BC: Minoan culture. 1400BC: Minoan centres destroyed by natural elements and abandoned. 1400-750BC: Mycenaean / Dorian Period – Mycenaeans from Peloponnese rise to prominence. 1150BC: Dorians conquer large areas of Peloponnese. 776BC: First Olympic Games. 750-550BC: Archaic Period – City-states Athens / Sparta / Thebes / Corinth compete for supremacy. 550BC: Sparta forms Peloponnesian League, rivalry with Athens. 500-338BC: Classical Period – Persia’s King Darius attempts to conquer Greece, but is defeated by Athenian army at Marathon. 481-479BC: Darius’ son Xerxes invades – Spartan king Leonidas (small army) finally falls at Battle of Thermopylae. Athens captured, but sinks Persian fleet off Salamis in surprise attack. 431-404BC: Peloponnesian Wars. Sparta controls most of Greece. 338BC: Philip II of Macedonia defeats Athens/Thebes at Battle of Chaeronea and unites all Greek cities except of Sparta. 338BC-395AD: Hellenistic / Roman Period – Philip II assassinated. His son, Alexander the Great, develops Greece into imperial power with Macedonia at governmental centre. 323BC: Diadochi divide empire after Alexander’s death. Centres of power shift to Middle East / Egypt. 320-275BC: Rome emerges as major power. 146BC: Greece province of Roman Empire. 295-1453AD Byzantine Period – Roman Empire divided in East (Byzantine) and West. 1204: Crusaders attack Constantinople. Franks / Venetians divide Greek territory. 1452: Defeat Byzantine Empire by Ottoman Empire: 1453-1821. 1821-’29: Greek War of Independence from Ottomans. ’12-’13: First Balkan War: Greece wins Epirus, Macedonia, Crete and North Aegean Islands from Ottomans / Second Balkan War: Greece wins Thrace from Bulgaria. 1821 onwards: Modern Times. 1917: Start WWI, Greece with Allies. ’19-’22: Greco-Turkish War (Greek failed invasion of Smyrna). ’24: Monarchy abolished, Greek republic. ’35: Monarchy restored. ’36: General Metaxas starts right-winged dictatorship as PM. ’40: Start WWII, Greece initially neutral – Mussolini attacks Greece from Albania, but is repelled. ’41: Nazi Germany - Resistance by communists and royalists. ’44: Collaboration with UK to repel Nazis. ’46-’49: Greek Civil War between US/UK-backed governmental Hellenic Army and communist SU/Bulgaria/Albania/Yugoslavia-backed Democratic Army of Greece (1st won).’52: Parliamentary kingdom. Joins NATO. ’67: Military coup. ’73: Republic again. Coup. ’74: Coup against president of Cyprus. Turkish invasion / occupation Northern Cyprus. ’75: Parliamentary republic. ’81: Joins EU. ’91: Former Yugoslavian Republic of Macedonia declares independence. Greek objects to name and flag due to territorial claims of Greek province Macedonia. ’96: Tension with Turkey over Aegean islet. ’99: Earthquake Athens kills dozens. 2002: Euro replaces drachma. ’04: Athens hosts Olympic Games. Formal warning EC: Greece falsified budget deficit data in run-up to eurozone. ’08: Greece blocks Macedonia’s bid to join NATO over unresolved name-dispute. ’09-‘15: Debt crisis – massive debt caused by Greece. Long series of EU + Eurozone rescue bailouts and loans (hundreds of billions of euros) and debt-cuts in exchange for austerity and spending cuts programs, continuously accompanied by mass protests. ’13: Highest unemployment rate EU (26.8% - ’14: 28%). ’18: Agreement with Macedonia after 27-year-long name dispute (Macedonia vs. North Macedonia).
Budget Bites
- Local Dishes: Pita Gyros (meat); Souvlaki (meat skewer); Moussaka (oven dish with minced meat / eggplant / potatoes / bechamel sauce); Pastitsio (macaroni lasagne); Kefthetes (meat balls); Loutza (cured pork tenderloin); Yemista (stuffed tomatoes); Papoutsakia (stuffed eggplants); Stifado (beef stew); Giouvetsi (beef stew with pasta); Kleftiko / Paidakia (lamb); Brizola (pork / beef steak); Mydia (mussels); Sofrito (slow-cooked veal); Xiphias (sword fish); Antzougi (anchovis); Spetzofai (sausage-wine dish); Fasolatha (white bean soup); Dolmadakia (rice-stuffed grape leaves); Koulouri (bread rings); Spanakopita (stuffed pastry); Loukoumades (fried honey-covered dough balls); Greek Salad / Choriatiki; Tzatziki (garlic-yoghurt dip); Taramasalata (fish roe dip); Tirokafteri (cheese dip); Tiropita (cheese pie); Olives; Greek Yoghurt (with honey and walnuts).
- The Veg Situation: Going vegan is rather complicated in Greece outside of the bigger cities, but in the capital there are of course plenty of options. Many local dishes are ‘accidentally’ vegetarian… most however containing cheese, eggs and/or honey. Local veg dishes (some descriptions above): Fasolatha; Vegetarian Moussaka; Yemista; Papoutsakia; Dolmadakia; Koulouri; Spanakopita with Cheese/Spinach; Loukoumades; Greek Salad; Tzatziki; Tirokafteri; Tiropita; Olives; Greek Yoghurt; Kolokitho Keftedes (courgette balls); Tomato Keftedes (tomato fritters); Fava (split peas dip); Melitzanosalata (eggplant dip); Tirokroketes (fried cheese balls); Saganaki (fried cheese); Daklos (crackers with feta and capers); Horta (leafy boiled greens); Briam (roasted vegetables); Gigantes (giant beans); Pissara (feta, sun-dried tomato and pine nuts salad); Salata Koliandrou (collard salad); Pitaroudia (chickpea dumpling); Fasolakia (green beans); Spanakoriza (spinach-rice stew). Local veg-friendly restaurants can be found here.
- National Drink: Tsipouro (spirit), Ouzo (anise spirit) and delicious Greek wine. The standard coffee served in Greece is ice coffee. If you want hot coffee, specify this in your order.
Sleep Cheap
- Hostels / Hotels: are definitely not cheap in Greece. However, if you’re with 2 people or more, a private room or apartment is generally cheaper than a dormitory bed in a hostel. I personally found the best deals on Booking.com, which is generally cheaper than Air BnB listings here. Booking.com also has the biggest selection, is transparent about the final price and had an efficient search engine tailored to your specific needs. If you use it often enough, generous Genius-discounts are applied. Agoda is often not transparent about prices, adding a lot of additional costs in the last booking-step. Opodo is a better alternative. Keep in mind that most municipalities charge a city tax.
- Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost (unless you put a third-world country as homebase), but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate review explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored). Athens has an active Couchsurf community. Since Couchsurfing started charging under the flag of covid, the network became much less active… as such, join Couchsurfing forums on Facebook to get more reactions.
- Housesitting: is an amazing exchange allowing you to stay short- or long-term in somebody’s house, while looking after their house and pets. There are many different websites, most of them paid… but once you landed a sit, the subscription fee pays itself back quickly. I personally landed a housesit in Athens via the main housesitting hostel Trusted Housesitters.
Mama Said
Next?
* As described in the “History Recap,” this name is very controversial and still a topic of political debate. Macedonia is the name of a northern Greek province, North Macedonia the official name of the country. However, if you use “North” before the country-name, you profoundly insult the local population of (North) Macedonia. On the other hand, if you are in Greece and use the word “Macedonia” to refer to the country, you will not make any friends. The solution is to refer to the country as “North Macedonia” while in Greece, and change to “Macedonia” while crossing the border.
- Safety: European tourist destinations are generally safe, but use your common sense like everywhere. Don’t walk alone in remote areas after sunset, don’t take valuables along and follow your instinct when entering certain neighbourhoods further away from the centre.
- Tap Water: is drinkable.
- English is widely spoken, even by the older generation.
- The best credit/debit card for traveling are Wise and Revolut, as they use the live conversion rates without any extra fees. Wise also has the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. Keep in mind that all Greek ATMs charge a fee, the amount always indicated before completing the transaction. Payment by card is generally accepted everywhere.
- Simcard: The cheapest prepaid deals can be found on the street of Athens, generally around the major metro/train stations. Whereas in the shop they might charge €20 per month for limited calls and data, on the street the same simcard but with unlimited data is only €10. Don’t ask me how, just enjoy it.
Next?
- National Destinations Close By: Athens, Marathon, Euboea Peninsula, Saronic Islands, Cyclades Islands, Arachova, Delphi, Mount Parnassus, Volos.
- International Destinations Close By: Albania, (North) Macedonia*, Bulgaria, Turkey, Italy.
* As described in the “History Recap,” this name is very controversial and still a topic of political debate. Macedonia is the name of a northern Greek province, North Macedonia the official name of the country. However, if you use “North” before the country-name, you profoundly insult the local population of (North) Macedonia. On the other hand, if you are in Greece and use the word “Macedonia” to refer to the country, you will not make any friends. The solution is to refer to the country as “North Macedonia” while in Greece, and change to “Macedonia” while crossing the border.
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- German gems: Aachen & Frankfurt am Main
- Europe's best skiing & hiking: Get your ass over to jaw-dropping Switzerland!
- Budget Bucket List hitchhike trip to... Kosovo!
- Unravel the mysteries of Serbia
- Discover the splendours of Turkey: Istanbul on a Budget & Reasons to visit Edirne
- Read about Bosnia & Herzegovina: Mostar, Blagaj, Trebinje, Sarajevo, Jajce, Banja Luka and Sutjeska National Park (incl. Maglic Peak - the country's highest!)
- Get deep into Greece: Athens, Delphi, Arachova, Mount Parnassos NP, Epirus, Meteora, Thessaloniki & Volos
- Explore Cyprus: Check out the Cyprus Nature, Cyprus Top-5 Cities and the North Cyprus Blogs!
- Get your Albania itinerary ready: Berat, Gjirokastër, Korcë / Ohrid Lake, Theth, Shkodër, Tirana, Mount Korab & the coast!
- Check out Budget Bucket List's FAVORITE HIKING DESTINATIONS worldwide!
- Visit Balkan's finest: Montenegro's National Parks Blog, Kotor Bay & Lovcen NP and Cetinje, Podgorica, Prokletije NP and Montenegro's Coastal Towns Blog
- 10 typical Dutch celebrations no traveller should miss out on
- History preserved: Time capsule of Romanian culture Maramures
- The 3 golden rules to travel Sofia on a budget! & Why you shouldn’t miss out on Plovdiv! [Bulgaria]
- Where modern meets classic: Vilnius, Lithuania
- 8 ways to save money in Vienna, Austria
- German gems: Aachen & Frankfurt am Main
- Europe's best skiing & hiking: Get your ass over to jaw-dropping Switzerland!
- Budget Bucket List hitchhike trip to... Kosovo!
- Unravel the mysteries of Serbia
- Discover the splendours of Turkey: Istanbul on a Budget & Reasons to visit Edirne
- Read about Bosnia & Herzegovina: Mostar, Blagaj, Trebinje, Sarajevo, Jajce, Banja Luka and Sutjeska National Park (incl. Maglic Peak - the country's highest!)