National Parks: Estonia
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I flew to Estonia for the forests. And the solitude those provide.
With that thought in mind, I definitely wasn’t disappointed with a territory that is literally made up 52.3% out of forest.* I started my life in a country that is about the same size as Estonia (even a little smaller: 45,339 vs. 41,850 sq.km. of Dutch territory) but instead of 1,3mln inhabitants, I had to share this space with 17,5mln countrymen. Growing up, I was basically always in someone’s aura. The concept of personal space isn’t really personal there whatsoever… It’s close to impossible to walk in public without seeing, hearing, almost bumping into a fellow human being. It’s close to unattainable to hide, or seek refuge in the woods without anyone knowing (or caring) that you are there. That’s why I needed to be in Estonia. To get lost in the wilderness, to seek refuge under the trees, to simultaneously organize and lose my thoughts under the shooting stars shared with no one.
So I did it, I came to this country hidden somewhere in the deep cold north and walked 1000km (fair enough, a distance shared with the other Baltic beauties) and stayed for over 2 months. As part of my adventures I encountered the nation’s national parks, of which there are six in total. Each with its distinct character and even their own micro-climates. Six parks that offer anything from primeval forests, wooded meadows, islands and inlets, to Estonia’s loud and proud special: its bogs, the spongy freshwater peat wetlands the locals cherish deeply.
* Territory out of which 18% of land and 30% of sea is protected.
With that thought in mind, I definitely wasn’t disappointed with a territory that is literally made up 52.3% out of forest.* I started my life in a country that is about the same size as Estonia (even a little smaller: 45,339 vs. 41,850 sq.km. of Dutch territory) but instead of 1,3mln inhabitants, I had to share this space with 17,5mln countrymen. Growing up, I was basically always in someone’s aura. The concept of personal space isn’t really personal there whatsoever… It’s close to impossible to walk in public without seeing, hearing, almost bumping into a fellow human being. It’s close to unattainable to hide, or seek refuge in the woods without anyone knowing (or caring) that you are there. That’s why I needed to be in Estonia. To get lost in the wilderness, to seek refuge under the trees, to simultaneously organize and lose my thoughts under the shooting stars shared with no one.
So I did it, I came to this country hidden somewhere in the deep cold north and walked 1000km (fair enough, a distance shared with the other Baltic beauties) and stayed for over 2 months. As part of my adventures I encountered the nation’s national parks, of which there are six in total. Each with its distinct character and even their own micro-climates. Six parks that offer anything from primeval forests, wooded meadows, islands and inlets, to Estonia’s loud and proud special: its bogs, the spongy freshwater peat wetlands the locals cherish deeply.
* Territory out of which 18% of land and 30% of sea is protected.
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Six different national parks, six inspiring outdoor experiences. Are you ready?
Karula National Park
The kick-off with Karula isn’t incidental. No, even though this is Estonia’s smallest national park, it’s the one that carries the most significant meaning to me. First of all, it includes Ahijarve, the definite end point of the longest trail of the country: the 820-km Peraküla-Aegviidu-Ahijarve. One I came to, saw and did not conquer (I did suffer through the first week though, you can read all about that soon). It’s also only a stone’s throw away from Kobela, a place neither you nor any Estonian I ever met (unless they live there) has heard of… a deep-down countryside-place in the middle of bumfuck-nowhere where I settled down for a month to focus on my writing and undistracted mental peace.
Karula is the type of location where songs along the lines of “ohhh heaven is a place on Earth” are written about. Probably. At least, I do hope heaven slightly resembles this national park... a divine little spot containing meadows, marshland and no less than 38 lakes, with the largest Lake Ähijärv at its heart. Lakes that came into existence at the end of the Ice Age, give or take 10,000 years ago, when meltwater carried sand and gravel into the gaps between the glaciers, creating not only bodies of water, but also typical small, rounded hills that cannot be find anywhere else in Estonia. Between these mellow elevations dense groves and forests of spruce, birch and pine trees sprouted up, forming a natural habitat for elks, roe deer, lynxes, wolves and wild boars. The observant visitor might even spot protected species, such as sand lizards, spadefoot toads, black storks and eagles. Besides that, it’s not only all natural galore in Karula: A rewarding hike-or bike ride will also lead you passed ancient burial sites, century-old farms and even the iconic smoke saunas, a regional tradition recently adopted into the UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage.
→ The highest peak in Karula National Park is Hill Tornimägi in Rebasemõisa (76m). That said, you’re also not too far away from the country’s highest peak, Suur Munamagi, close to the village of Haanja. A fun one to check off the list of course, but keep in mind it’s still the flatter-than-a-pancake-country Estonia, so we’re looking at a modest 318m.
Karula National Park
The kick-off with Karula isn’t incidental. No, even though this is Estonia’s smallest national park, it’s the one that carries the most significant meaning to me. First of all, it includes Ahijarve, the definite end point of the longest trail of the country: the 820-km Peraküla-Aegviidu-Ahijarve. One I came to, saw and did not conquer (I did suffer through the first week though, you can read all about that soon). It’s also only a stone’s throw away from Kobela, a place neither you nor any Estonian I ever met (unless they live there) has heard of… a deep-down countryside-place in the middle of bumfuck-nowhere where I settled down for a month to focus on my writing and undistracted mental peace.
Karula is the type of location where songs along the lines of “ohhh heaven is a place on Earth” are written about. Probably. At least, I do hope heaven slightly resembles this national park... a divine little spot containing meadows, marshland and no less than 38 lakes, with the largest Lake Ähijärv at its heart. Lakes that came into existence at the end of the Ice Age, give or take 10,000 years ago, when meltwater carried sand and gravel into the gaps between the glaciers, creating not only bodies of water, but also typical small, rounded hills that cannot be find anywhere else in Estonia. Between these mellow elevations dense groves and forests of spruce, birch and pine trees sprouted up, forming a natural habitat for elks, roe deer, lynxes, wolves and wild boars. The observant visitor might even spot protected species, such as sand lizards, spadefoot toads, black storks and eagles. Besides that, it’s not only all natural galore in Karula: A rewarding hike-or bike ride will also lead you passed ancient burial sites, century-old farms and even the iconic smoke saunas, a regional tradition recently adopted into the UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage.
→ The highest peak in Karula National Park is Hill Tornimägi in Rebasemõisa (76m). That said, you’re also not too far away from the country’s highest peak, Suur Munamagi, close to the village of Haanja. A fun one to check off the list of course, but keep in mind it’s still the flatter-than-a-pancake-country Estonia, so we’re looking at a modest 318m.
- Counties: Võru & Valga.
- Free Campsites: Suuremäe Campsite, Lake Ähijärv Campfire Site, Plaagi Campfire Site, Alakonnu Campfire Site, Õdri I Campfire Site, Õdri II Campfire Site, Rebasemõisa Campfire Site, Mäekonnu Campfire Site, Peräjärve Campfire Site, Ubajärve Campfire Site, Veski Campfire Site & Kivi Forest Hut (free of charge, no heating).
- Trails: End part of the Peraküla-Aegviidu-Ahijarve Trail (820km), Karula Long Hiking and Cycling Trail (36km), Karula Short Cycling Trail (15km), Rebäse Landscape Trail (7km), Ähijärve Trail (4km), Peräjärve Forest Trail (4km), Children Nature Trail (0.4 km).
- Observation Towers: Mäekonnu, Rebasemõisa (latter currently closed).
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Laahema National Park
Alright, we covered Estonia’s smallest (123km²), let’s follow up with the country’s biggest (747km²)! Laahema National Park is not only the largest, but also the oldest one of the nation. On top of that, one could say that with the short distance from Tallinn, it is also the most well-visited one of the bunch. Not only due to pure convenience, but also thanks to multiple must-see sights, including the former submarine base in Hara Harbou and the Purekkari Cape, Estonia’s northernmost mainland point. The northern location allows at the same time for a huge variety in landscapes, as it incorporates both mainland (roughly two-third) and sea, including some islands. When we’re describing Laahema’s landscapes we must therefore think about wetlands and native forests separated by rivers, as well as coastal strips, peninsula’s and rugged bays embracing the Baltic Sea. One of the most distinctive sights is formed by a huge deposit of erratic boulders, the largest group in Europe, which were transported all the way from Scandinavia to Estonia by glacier movement during the last Ice Age. Of course, an Estonian national park also wouldn’t be complete without a bog, which generally is complicated to get through without special equipment… but luckily, Laahema’s Viru Bog is made easily accessible for exploration by means of visitor-friendly boardwalks as well as an observation tower to chase that bird eye view.
When it comes to wild animals, all the Estonian standard ones can be expected, including bears, lynxes, moose, and wild boars. The valley between Oandu and Altja is beavers area, although they are generally tough to spot. The northern coast yearly attracts a large number of migratory birds as well, easily converting this park into a birder’s promised land. It is exactly that focus on local flora and fauna combined with the limited human activity that forms Laahema’s main attraction: You can come across quaint fishing villages and a handful of historic manors, offering a sneak preview into the rich cultural heritage… but even at the peak of high season, you may easily find yourself completely alone on a deserted beach. The pure essence of a natural escape from the hectic hurry-scurry of modern daily life.
Alright, we covered Estonia’s smallest (123km²), let’s follow up with the country’s biggest (747km²)! Laahema National Park is not only the largest, but also the oldest one of the nation. On top of that, one could say that with the short distance from Tallinn, it is also the most well-visited one of the bunch. Not only due to pure convenience, but also thanks to multiple must-see sights, including the former submarine base in Hara Harbou and the Purekkari Cape, Estonia’s northernmost mainland point. The northern location allows at the same time for a huge variety in landscapes, as it incorporates both mainland (roughly two-third) and sea, including some islands. When we’re describing Laahema’s landscapes we must therefore think about wetlands and native forests separated by rivers, as well as coastal strips, peninsula’s and rugged bays embracing the Baltic Sea. One of the most distinctive sights is formed by a huge deposit of erratic boulders, the largest group in Europe, which were transported all the way from Scandinavia to Estonia by glacier movement during the last Ice Age. Of course, an Estonian national park also wouldn’t be complete without a bog, which generally is complicated to get through without special equipment… but luckily, Laahema’s Viru Bog is made easily accessible for exploration by means of visitor-friendly boardwalks as well as an observation tower to chase that bird eye view.
When it comes to wild animals, all the Estonian standard ones can be expected, including bears, lynxes, moose, and wild boars. The valley between Oandu and Altja is beavers area, although they are generally tough to spot. The northern coast yearly attracts a large number of migratory birds as well, easily converting this park into a birder’s promised land. It is exactly that focus on local flora and fauna combined with the limited human activity that forms Laahema’s main attraction: You can come across quaint fishing villages and a handful of historic manors, offering a sneak preview into the rich cultural heritage… but even at the peak of high season, you may easily find yourself completely alone on a deserted beach. The pure essence of a natural escape from the hectic hurry-scurry of modern daily life.
- Counties: Harju & Lääne-Viru.
- Free Campsites: Oandu Campsite, Purekkari Campsite, Juminda Campsite, Võsu Campsite, Tsitre Campsite, Nõmmeveski Campfire Site, Mustoja Campfire Site, Kalmeoja Campfire Site, Campfire Site, Koljaku Rest Stop, Esku Rest Stop, Kuueristi Rest Stop.
- Trails: RMK Hiking Route Oandu-Aegviidu-Ikla / Oandu–Kalmeoja (40km), Võsu–Nõmmeveski Trail (19km), Nõmmeveski–Liiapeksi Trail (16km), Käsmu trail (15km), Oandu–Võsu Trail (9.5km), Majakivi–Pikanõmme Nature Trail (7km), Sagadi-Oandu Forest Fairy Tales Trail (5.6km), Ojakivi Trail (5km), Oandu Old-Growth Forest Nature Trail (4.7km), Käsmu Nature and Culture Historical Trail (4.2km), Viru Bog Nature Trail (3.5km), Ojaäärse Forest Trail (3.5km), Oandu Heritage Trail (3.4km), Altja Nature and Culture Historical Trail (3km), Beaver Trail (1km), Tsitre Trail of Trees (1km), Oandu Plant Trail (1km).
- Observation Towers: Majakivi-Pikanõmme, Viru Bog, Tsitre.
Source
Soomaa National Park
If Estonia is considered to be the Kingdom of Bogs, then Soomaa wears the shiny crown. In fact, the name “Soomaa” can actually be translated as “land of bogs”, and the park indeed is home to several of ‘em… including the country’s largest: Kuseroo. At the same time, if Soomaa’s bogs can be considered the nation’s royalty, then the forest groves, ravines and wooded meadows form their breathtaking palaces, which also welcome moose, roe deer, lynxes, wild boars and a wide variety of bird species as their valued guests.
I crossed Sooma National Park in Estonia’s extended summer, on my way to completing the Baltic section of the Camino de Santiago. Truth being told, I was rather bored following the endless monotonous road cutting through the entire park, only every now and then offering a little side-quest onto a bog-boardwalk or carefully crafted “educational trail.” It had the feels of a campervan-destination with only short loop-hikes scattered out over a large area, requiring a vehicle for thorough exploration. Little did I know I was actually visiting during the wrong season. You see, Soomaa is quite unique. And I don’t mean it in the superficial blogger-type-of-expression like “oh my god dear followers, it is so friggin’ u-n-i-q-u-e over here, I can’t even!”… No, it actually is unique. I mean, if it isn’t, then tell me what the Fifth Season is? Right, let me spill the beans as I’m quite excited about it: Every year, after periods of heavy rainfall and snowmelt, the rivers within Soomaa are unable to contain all the water mass flowing down from the Sakala Uplands. As a result, it floods out of the river beds and covers the meadows, forests and roads in their entirety. The primary way the locals get around during these unusual times is by wooden dugout canoes, called “haabjas” in Estonian, which were recently added to the UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage. Needless to say, this is a splendid opportunity for any visitor to not only follow the footsteps of ancient traditions, but also to explore the different types of habitat during this season, such as beavers and otters who suddenly come out to play… as should you!
In winter, when the flooded water freezes, this creates what could be considered the country’s largest ice-skating rink! Other fun ways to explore include snowshoeing or cross-country skiing. Soomaa, could it be the only national park that’s actually more fun during the off-season?
Soomaa National Park
If Estonia is considered to be the Kingdom of Bogs, then Soomaa wears the shiny crown. In fact, the name “Soomaa” can actually be translated as “land of bogs”, and the park indeed is home to several of ‘em… including the country’s largest: Kuseroo. At the same time, if Soomaa’s bogs can be considered the nation’s royalty, then the forest groves, ravines and wooded meadows form their breathtaking palaces, which also welcome moose, roe deer, lynxes, wild boars and a wide variety of bird species as their valued guests.
I crossed Sooma National Park in Estonia’s extended summer, on my way to completing the Baltic section of the Camino de Santiago. Truth being told, I was rather bored following the endless monotonous road cutting through the entire park, only every now and then offering a little side-quest onto a bog-boardwalk or carefully crafted “educational trail.” It had the feels of a campervan-destination with only short loop-hikes scattered out over a large area, requiring a vehicle for thorough exploration. Little did I know I was actually visiting during the wrong season. You see, Soomaa is quite unique. And I don’t mean it in the superficial blogger-type-of-expression like “oh my god dear followers, it is so friggin’ u-n-i-q-u-e over here, I can’t even!”… No, it actually is unique. I mean, if it isn’t, then tell me what the Fifth Season is? Right, let me spill the beans as I’m quite excited about it: Every year, after periods of heavy rainfall and snowmelt, the rivers within Soomaa are unable to contain all the water mass flowing down from the Sakala Uplands. As a result, it floods out of the river beds and covers the meadows, forests and roads in their entirety. The primary way the locals get around during these unusual times is by wooden dugout canoes, called “haabjas” in Estonian, which were recently added to the UNESCO List of Intangible Cultural Heritage. Needless to say, this is a splendid opportunity for any visitor to not only follow the footsteps of ancient traditions, but also to explore the different types of habitat during this season, such as beavers and otters who suddenly come out to play… as should you!
In winter, when the flooded water freezes, this creates what could be considered the country’s largest ice-skating rink! Other fun ways to explore include snowshoeing or cross-country skiing. Soomaa, could it be the only national park that’s actually more fun during the off-season?
- Counties: Pärnu & Viljandi.
- Free Campsites & Huts: Tõramaa Campfire Site, Läti Campfire Site, Mulgi Campfire Site, Oksa Campfire Site, Hüpassaare Campfire Site, Meiekose Saarte Campfire Site, Ruunaraipe Campfire Site, Pertlimetsa Campfire Site, Kõrtsi-Tõramaa Campfire Site, Muinasküla Campfire Site, Meiekose Oak Forest Hut, Lake Öördi Forest Hut, Oksa Hay Barn Forest Hut, Oksa Granary Forest Hut, Karuskose Rental Hut.
- Trails: Camino de Santiago (250km in Estonia), RMK Hiking Route Oandu-Aegviidu-Ikla / Hüpassaare - Kopra (56km), Lemmjõe Forest Study Trail (5.8km), Meiekose Study Trail (5.6km), Riisa Study Trail (4.8km), Hüpassaare Study Trail (4.4km), Ingatsi Study Trail (4.3km), Lake Öördi Study Trail (2.4km), Kuuraniidu Study Trail (1.8km), Beaver Trail Study Trail (1.8km).
- Observation Towers: Läti, Tõramaa, Ingatsi.
Matsalu National Park
If Soomaa can be nominated the Bog King, than Matsalu takes home the price for Estonia’s Most Prominent Birding Area. In fact, it even scores incredibly high on European level, as it’s one of the continent’s most important wetland areas for birds to cross along their East Atlantic Flyway when migrating from north to south. Large numbers of birds use this protected reserve as a resting and feeding area, while others stay to nest. What makes it all the more interesting, even for the less die-hard birding aficionados, is that many of these are on the Red List of Threatened Species, allowing for some potential once-in-a-lifetime-sightings.
Matsalu’s location on the western coast gives it a similar broad landscape variety as its seaside competitor, Laahema National Park. Expect to find reedbeds, woodlands, floodplains, marshlands, bogs… but also a specifically high concentration of meadows. The area also includes over 50 islands, which all form part of Estonian territory. This diverse landscape and high biodiversity shaped by both sea, land and the Kasari River Delta attracts, besides birds, also large populations of butterflies and dragonflies. From a flora-point-of-view, it forms fertile ground for a special selection of orchid species. However, where Laahema is known for its limited human intervention, in Matsalu man and nature both complement and safeguard each other. This means that besides some nature-fueled getaway, it’s also possible to further examine the region’s cultural heritage. Visit some local fisherman’s cafes or stroll passed the old fishing huts with the typical thatched roofs, many of them which have been recently restored to exhibit the life of an Estonia that once was. If you happen to visit in autumn, you can further witness that human-nature balance during the Matsalu International Nature Film Festival… an event that received national recognition from the Estonian Ministry of Environment in the form of the Environmental Award for popularizing nature protection and contributing to environmental awareness.
If Soomaa can be nominated the Bog King, than Matsalu takes home the price for Estonia’s Most Prominent Birding Area. In fact, it even scores incredibly high on European level, as it’s one of the continent’s most important wetland areas for birds to cross along their East Atlantic Flyway when migrating from north to south. Large numbers of birds use this protected reserve as a resting and feeding area, while others stay to nest. What makes it all the more interesting, even for the less die-hard birding aficionados, is that many of these are on the Red List of Threatened Species, allowing for some potential once-in-a-lifetime-sightings.
Matsalu’s location on the western coast gives it a similar broad landscape variety as its seaside competitor, Laahema National Park. Expect to find reedbeds, woodlands, floodplains, marshlands, bogs… but also a specifically high concentration of meadows. The area also includes over 50 islands, which all form part of Estonian territory. This diverse landscape and high biodiversity shaped by both sea, land and the Kasari River Delta attracts, besides birds, also large populations of butterflies and dragonflies. From a flora-point-of-view, it forms fertile ground for a special selection of orchid species. However, where Laahema is known for its limited human intervention, in Matsalu man and nature both complement and safeguard each other. This means that besides some nature-fueled getaway, it’s also possible to further examine the region’s cultural heritage. Visit some local fisherman’s cafes or stroll passed the old fishing huts with the typical thatched roofs, many of them which have been recently restored to exhibit the life of an Estonia that once was. If you happen to visit in autumn, you can further witness that human-nature balance during the Matsalu International Nature Film Festival… an event that received national recognition from the Estonian Ministry of Environment in the form of the Environmental Award for popularizing nature protection and contributing to environmental awareness.
- Counties: Pärnu & Lääne.
- Free Campsites & Huts: Penijõe Campfire Site, Hirvepargi Campfire Site, Rumba Campfire Site, Keemu rest stop, Karusselja Rest Stop, Suitsu Rest Stop, Nurga Rest Stop & Suitsu Forest Hut.
- Trails: RMK Penijõe-Aegviidu-Kauksi Hiking Route (84km), Penijõe Hiking Trail (3.2–7km), Salevere Hiking Trail (1.5km), Suitsu Hiking Trail (1.3km).
- Observation Towers: Keemu, Suitsu, Penijõe, Kloostri, Rannajõe.
Source
Alutaguse National Park
So we’ve had the smallest, the largest and the oldest… I hereby present the youngest of Estonia’s national parks. Yet, at the same time, the largest coniferous forest and marshland of the country. Located in northeastern Estonia, hugging the Russian border, the national park was established only in 2018 to gather the River Narva and 11 former protected areas (Puhatu, Muraka, Agusalu, Selisoo, Kurtna, Jõuga, Smolnitsa, Iisaku, Mäetaguse and Struuga, to be exact). A collection of areas worthy to protect, I must indeed admit: With more than half of the park consisting of bog-land and no less than 42% of forest, the area forms a sanctuary for wild birds and mammals, including brown bears, lynxes, elk, wild boars, roe deer, wolves and even flying squirrels! To facilitate the bear-spotting and to protect your safety, special bear-watching huts have been provided to observe them from a pleasant distance.
Besides the mentioned ancient forests and bogs Estonia is so famous for, Alataguse also offers its lucky visitors a 30km-long beach with 18m-high dunes. Rather unique in this part of the world! What makes it even more special is that this park is not even located at the Baltic Sea. Instead, the dunes can be traced down on the shores of Lake Peipsi, one of Europe’s largest fresh water lakes, which is shared with Russia. The lake makes this area not only suitable for coastal hikes, but also creates opportunities for boating and fishing trips.
While in the area, I would like to bring another natural highlight to your attention: the Endla Nature Reserve, a protection area containing pine forests, reed beds, bogs and natural springs. Especially the latter was a truly special sight to me, seeing the crystal clear and bright blue water bubbling up out of the lake bottom in the otherwise gloomy, shadowy forest. It almost feels like a supernatural phenomenon. Locals cherish a higher degree of trust for these springs than from their own tap water! The area has some well-prepared hiking trails, balancing on well-organised and adventurous, as well as information signs pointing out the spots of threatened bird and orchid species.
Alutaguse National Park
So we’ve had the smallest, the largest and the oldest… I hereby present the youngest of Estonia’s national parks. Yet, at the same time, the largest coniferous forest and marshland of the country. Located in northeastern Estonia, hugging the Russian border, the national park was established only in 2018 to gather the River Narva and 11 former protected areas (Puhatu, Muraka, Agusalu, Selisoo, Kurtna, Jõuga, Smolnitsa, Iisaku, Mäetaguse and Struuga, to be exact). A collection of areas worthy to protect, I must indeed admit: With more than half of the park consisting of bog-land and no less than 42% of forest, the area forms a sanctuary for wild birds and mammals, including brown bears, lynxes, elk, wild boars, roe deer, wolves and even flying squirrels! To facilitate the bear-spotting and to protect your safety, special bear-watching huts have been provided to observe them from a pleasant distance.
Besides the mentioned ancient forests and bogs Estonia is so famous for, Alataguse also offers its lucky visitors a 30km-long beach with 18m-high dunes. Rather unique in this part of the world! What makes it even more special is that this park is not even located at the Baltic Sea. Instead, the dunes can be traced down on the shores of Lake Peipsi, one of Europe’s largest fresh water lakes, which is shared with Russia. The lake makes this area not only suitable for coastal hikes, but also creates opportunities for boating and fishing trips.
While in the area, I would like to bring another natural highlight to your attention: the Endla Nature Reserve, a protection area containing pine forests, reed beds, bogs and natural springs. Especially the latter was a truly special sight to me, seeing the crystal clear and bright blue water bubbling up out of the lake bottom in the otherwise gloomy, shadowy forest. It almost feels like a supernatural phenomenon. Locals cherish a higher degree of trust for these springs than from their own tap water! The area has some well-prepared hiking trails, balancing on well-organised and adventurous, as well as information signs pointing out the spots of threatened bird and orchid species.
- Counties: Ida-Viru & Lüganuse, Jõhvi, Toila and Alutaguse Municipalities
- Free Campsites & Huts: Agusalu Campfire Site, Selisoo Campfire Site, Jõuga Lakes Campfire Site, Rüütli Campfire Site, Iisaku Hill Campfire Site, Jõuga Lakes Campfire Site, Rääkjärve Campfire Site, Nõmmejärve Campfire Site, Liivjärve Campfire Site, Martiska Campfire Site, Ovintse Campfire Site, Narva Jõe Campfire Site, Seljandiku Forest Hut, Varessaare Forest Hut (huts also free of charge).
- Trails: RMK Penijõe-Kotka Hiking Trail (6.7km), Selisoo Hiking Trail (4km), Kurtna Hiking Trail (9km) RMK Penijõe-Aegviidu-Kauksi Hiking Route (158km), RMK Penijõe-Aegviidu-Kauksi Hiking Route (133km), Poruni Hiking Trail (5km) & Agusalu Cycling Trail.
- Observation Towers: Iisaku, Rüütli.
Vilsandi National Park
The last one of the Estonian National Park collection is potentially also the most special one. First of all, because it’s not located on the mainland, but on the west coast of Saaremaa Island (popular among both tourists and locals). Second of all, because you can explore it by wading through the shallow sea… Imagine that, walking through the Kihelkonna, Atla and Kuusnõmme Bays and visiting as many of the 100+ islands as time allows! Definitely an unusual way to explore Estonia’s natural riches. Of course, you can also venture around the park by boat or even better, by kayak.
With a park which has two-thirds of it formed by the Baltic Sea and the rest consisting of islands, inlets and peninsulas, the wildlife is rather different than the “standard” moose, bears and boars you can spot in the other Estonian national parks. Of course it’s a popular birding destination, but here in Vilsandi it’s in fact the seal colony that draws in the crowds. Boat tours are organized to guarantee the best up-close views possible. Landscape-wise, you can expect rugged coastline, limestone terraces, and even pristine coral reefs! Besides that, Vilsandi National Park also has got a few tourist attractions up on its sleeve, including the Hairlaiu Peninsula, shaped by the play of wind and waves; the leaning lighthouse of Kiipsaare; and Nootamaa Island, Estonia’s westernmost point.
The last one of the Estonian National Park collection is potentially also the most special one. First of all, because it’s not located on the mainland, but on the west coast of Saaremaa Island (popular among both tourists and locals). Second of all, because you can explore it by wading through the shallow sea… Imagine that, walking through the Kihelkonna, Atla and Kuusnõmme Bays and visiting as many of the 100+ islands as time allows! Definitely an unusual way to explore Estonia’s natural riches. Of course, you can also venture around the park by boat or even better, by kayak.
With a park which has two-thirds of it formed by the Baltic Sea and the rest consisting of islands, inlets and peninsulas, the wildlife is rather different than the “standard” moose, bears and boars you can spot in the other Estonian national parks. Of course it’s a popular birding destination, but here in Vilsandi it’s in fact the seal colony that draws in the crowds. Boat tours are organized to guarantee the best up-close views possible. Landscape-wise, you can expect rugged coastline, limestone terraces, and even pristine coral reefs! Besides that, Vilsandi National Park also has got a few tourist attractions up on its sleeve, including the Hairlaiu Peninsula, shaped by the play of wind and waves; the leaning lighthouse of Kiipsaare; and Nootamaa Island, Estonia’s westernmost point.
- Counties: Saare (Saarema Island)
- Free Campsites & Huts: Harilaiu Campsite, Käkisilma Campsite, Elda Campsite, Kulpri Campsite, Vikati Information Hut and Campfire Site, Harilaiu Rest Stop, Väike-Vilsandi Rest Stop.
- Trails: Harilaiu Hiking Trail (6km/11km), Vilsandi Hiking Trail (6km/8km). Käkisilma - Vilsandi hiking trail (5km) is not existing anymore.
- Observation Towers: Vilsandi (900m from Vikati Harbour)
Source
Is 6 national parks not enough for your personal taste? Don’t panic, my adventurous friend! Estonia has another 167 nature reserves as well as 152 landscape conservation areas at your very beck and call, comprising an area taking up over 18% of the entire country. Will that be enough for you?
A full list, including the GPS coordinates, can be found here.
Is 6 national parks not enough for your personal taste? Don’t panic, my adventurous friend! Estonia has another 167 nature reserves as well as 152 landscape conservation areas at your very beck and call, comprising an area taking up over 18% of the entire country. Will that be enough for you?
A full list, including the GPS coordinates, can be found here.
Quick Budget Fact Overview
Estonia Facts
Short History Recap
11000-9000BC: End Glacial Era → Pulli settlement, on the banks of the Pärnu River. 6500BC: Kunda culture establishes fishing and hunting communities in north. 5300-1750BC: Narva culture → mainly fishers, hunters & gatherers. 500BC: Iron works start. 100: Roman senator Tacitus uses the name Estonia for the 1st time to describe region. 100-600: Coastal settlements. Wind worshipping religion. 750: Battle of Bråvalla → Estonians & Swedes battle against Danes. 790: Viking Era (most Estonian Vikings are Oeselians). 1206: Start Danish Era → in response to frequent raids by Oeselian Vikings, the Danes strike back → King Valdemar II conquers Saaremaa & expands on Estonian territory. ’08: Baltic Crusades by Germans, converting Estonia to Christianity. ’20: Control divided between Danes in the north & (Germanic) Livonian Brothers of the Sword in south. 1343: St. George’s Night Uprising → unsuccessful attempt to overthrow Danes. ’46: Estonia (and Latvia) sold to German Teutonic Order, defeated in 1410. 1410-1558: Livionian Wars over territory. Local population declines to 120,000. 1558: Swedish protection. Estonian land privatised, Baltic Germans arrive. 1700: Battle of Narva on Estonian ground between Sweden & Russia. ’10: Sweden’s defeat → Estonia incorporated into Russian Empire. 1850: Estonian Age of Awakening = nationalist movement. ’90: Russification policy, only strengthens nationalism. 1918: Independence from Russia. ’20: Peace treaty with Russia. ’34: Prime Minister Pats’ bloodless coup establishes authoritarian rule. ’38: Pats president. ’39: Soviet Union (SU) military bases in Estonia. ’40: SU troops arrive. Estonia incorporated into SU (Estonia was neutral in WWII, but SU is not). ’41: German Nazi troops invade. ’44: Estonia reannexed by SU when German forces retreat. 10,000s Estonians deported to Siberia and Central Asia. ‘60s: Some deported Estonians allowed to return. ’88: Democratic vibes. ’87-’91: Singing Revolution in all Baltic states: demonstrations of spontaneous singing of banned hymns and songs. ’91: Communist rule collapses. Soviet government recognizes independence of the Baltic Republics. ’94: Partnership for Peace → limited military cooperation with Nato. ’97: EU negotiations. ’98: Changes in citizen laws to encourage Russian-speaking minority to become Estonian. 2002: EU invites Estonia. Overwhelming referendum votes in favor of joining. ’04: Nato. Officially joins EU. ’05: Estonia & Russia sign treaty delineating border. Russia withdraws in response to dispute over treatment of Soviet past. ’07: Law prohibiting display of monuments glorifying Soviet rule. ’11: Euro as currency. ’14: Estonia & Russia sign a new treaty ending border dispute. Nato presence rises in Baltics. ’21: Kaja Kallas 1st female prime minister. ’22: Estonia gives military and political support to Ukraine after Russian invasion.
Estonia Facts
- Capital: Tallinn
- Language: Estonian
- Population: ± 1.3 mln
- Sq km: ± 45,339
- Currency: Euro (€ - EUR)
- Electricity Outlet: C + F / 230 V / 50 Hz. Check here.
- Country Code Phone: +372
- Emergency Phone: 112
- Visa: Schengen visa (Estonia is part of the EU). Easy visa application here.
- Vaccinations: None, although it’s recommended to get vaccinated against tick-borne encephalitis and Lyme disease if you plan to spend a lot of time in the forests, as this is rather common in the Baltics (I personally caught Lyme disease in Estonia but detected it early, so I could get it treated with antibiotics)
- Climate: Cold Winter Humid Continental Climate (Dfb)
- High season: July-August
Short History Recap
11000-9000BC: End Glacial Era → Pulli settlement, on the banks of the Pärnu River. 6500BC: Kunda culture establishes fishing and hunting communities in north. 5300-1750BC: Narva culture → mainly fishers, hunters & gatherers. 500BC: Iron works start. 100: Roman senator Tacitus uses the name Estonia for the 1st time to describe region. 100-600: Coastal settlements. Wind worshipping religion. 750: Battle of Bråvalla → Estonians & Swedes battle against Danes. 790: Viking Era (most Estonian Vikings are Oeselians). 1206: Start Danish Era → in response to frequent raids by Oeselian Vikings, the Danes strike back → King Valdemar II conquers Saaremaa & expands on Estonian territory. ’08: Baltic Crusades by Germans, converting Estonia to Christianity. ’20: Control divided between Danes in the north & (Germanic) Livonian Brothers of the Sword in south. 1343: St. George’s Night Uprising → unsuccessful attempt to overthrow Danes. ’46: Estonia (and Latvia) sold to German Teutonic Order, defeated in 1410. 1410-1558: Livionian Wars over territory. Local population declines to 120,000. 1558: Swedish protection. Estonian land privatised, Baltic Germans arrive. 1700: Battle of Narva on Estonian ground between Sweden & Russia. ’10: Sweden’s defeat → Estonia incorporated into Russian Empire. 1850: Estonian Age of Awakening = nationalist movement. ’90: Russification policy, only strengthens nationalism. 1918: Independence from Russia. ’20: Peace treaty with Russia. ’34: Prime Minister Pats’ bloodless coup establishes authoritarian rule. ’38: Pats president. ’39: Soviet Union (SU) military bases in Estonia. ’40: SU troops arrive. Estonia incorporated into SU (Estonia was neutral in WWII, but SU is not). ’41: German Nazi troops invade. ’44: Estonia reannexed by SU when German forces retreat. 10,000s Estonians deported to Siberia and Central Asia. ‘60s: Some deported Estonians allowed to return. ’88: Democratic vibes. ’87-’91: Singing Revolution in all Baltic states: demonstrations of spontaneous singing of banned hymns and songs. ’91: Communist rule collapses. Soviet government recognizes independence of the Baltic Republics. ’94: Partnership for Peace → limited military cooperation with Nato. ’97: EU negotiations. ’98: Changes in citizen laws to encourage Russian-speaking minority to become Estonian. 2002: EU invites Estonia. Overwhelming referendum votes in favor of joining. ’04: Nato. Officially joins EU. ’05: Estonia & Russia sign treaty delineating border. Russia withdraws in response to dispute over treatment of Soviet past. ’07: Law prohibiting display of monuments glorifying Soviet rule. ’11: Euro as currency. ’14: Estonia & Russia sign a new treaty ending border dispute. Nato presence rises in Baltics. ’21: Kaja Kallas 1st female prime minister. ’22: Estonia gives military and political support to Ukraine after Russian invasion.
Budget Bites
→ A great solution for tasty trail meals offering a bit of variation are freeze-dried foods. The technique of freeze-drying refers to a low-temp dehydration process, which preserves the food’s original healthy nutrients. The great advantage for us hikers is the low weight of these products… a more-than-enough portion weighs as little as 100-140 grams! The local Estonian company Hiking Baltic North offers an impressively big collection of freeze-dried meals, varying from paella to Indian curries to mashed potatoes. They even provide the service of sending them directly to you on the trail, via the Omniva post boxes that can be found all over the Baltics next to almost every supermarket. Like this, you can restock easily and you won’t have to carry too much weight.
- Main Supermarket Chains Estonia: Coop, Maxima, Selver, Rimi, Prisma, Grossi and Lidl. Maxima, Grossi and Lidl are the more budget-sensitive ones. On the Estonian Camino you will run into a supermarket almost every day, with a max. of 2 days in between them. As such, you won’t have to carry much weight in food. Sometimes it will be a local over-the-counter-shop with limited choice, but it’s better than nothing.
- Local Dishes: Kartulisalat (potato salad), Rosolje (beetroot salad with herring and pickles), Mulgikapsad (pork-cabbage dish), Rämm (herring), Mulgipuder (meat porridge), Kama (porridge), Kiluvõileib (meatball soup), Hernesupp (pea soup), Leivasupp (sweet soup with apples and whipped cream), Verivorst (blood sausage), Sült (head cheese), Rukkileib (rye bread), Kiluvõileib (rye bread sandwich with fish), Pirukas (stuffed dough pastry), Kringel (sweet or savoury pastry), Kohupiimakreem (curd cheese dessert), Vastlakukkel (cardamom bread roll), Kohuke (cold dairy curd snack), Mannavaht (semolina cream), Kompott (compote), Kirju Koer / Kass Artur / Küpsisetort (cookie cakes).
- The Veg Situation: Going veg is not so complicated in Estonia, as vegetarianism and veganism is widely accepted. Most supermarkets contain veg products, be it very processed at times. Veg restaurants can be found here. That said, these are concentrated in the bigger cities, you won’t pass many of them hiking. Local vegetarian dishes: Leivasupp, Rukkileib, Kohupiimakreem , Vastlakukkel, Kohuke, Mannavah, Kompott, Kirju Koer / Kass Artur / Küpsisetort. Local vegan dishes: Porgandi-Oakotletid (carrot and bean fritters), Nogese Kartuli Kotetid (potato fritters), Hapukapsa-Peedisalat (sauerkraut and beetroot salad), Seenesupp (wild mushrooms soup), Lillkapsa Ja Läätsesupp Seentega (cauliflower, lentil and mushroom soup), Porgandi Ja Kruubivorm (barley and carrot pudding).
- National Drink: Vana Tallinn (liquor) and Vodka, Kali (alcohol-free fermented drink), Beer, Sweet Fruit Wines.
- Hiking food: You want to go high-energy and low-weight. For breakfast I swear by oatmeal, which I make with milk in powder-form. I usually add nuts, seeds or any fruits I can find along the trail. This gives me energy for hours and it’s easy to carry. For lunch I generally make simple sandwiches, which are very filling with the Baltic rye bread. Dinner has to fit in one pot, so I generally make pasta, rice or fastest of all: couscous. I carry low-weight vegetables like mushrooms or salad and generally cut some dried sausage on top. For flavor I carry basic spices (as well as loooots of chili) and sauces in powder form… liquids are too heavy! For snacks I focus on nuts, dried fruits, muesli bars and berries I find along the trail.
→ A great solution for tasty trail meals offering a bit of variation are freeze-dried foods. The technique of freeze-drying refers to a low-temp dehydration process, which preserves the food’s original healthy nutrients. The great advantage for us hikers is the low weight of these products… a more-than-enough portion weighs as little as 100-140 grams! The local Estonian company Hiking Baltic North offers an impressively big collection of freeze-dried meals, varying from paella to Indian curries to mashed potatoes. They even provide the service of sending them directly to you on the trail, via the Omniva post boxes that can be found all over the Baltics next to almost every supermarket. Like this, you can restock easily and you won’t have to carry too much weight.
Conveniently, this company also provides all type of outdoor equipment as well as rentals that can be sent directly to you on the trail.
Sleep Cheap
Mama Said
Sleep Cheap
- Hostels / Hotels / Guesthouses: Of all Baltic countries, Estonia is the most expensive one. Expect Western European prices for food and accommodation.
- Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost (unless you put a third-world country as homebase), but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate review explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored). The Couchsurfing community in Estonia is rather big and active and I used in several locations.
- Wild Camping: is entirely legal in Estonia, with the exception of private land. You can literally spend the night anywhere you want, as long as you don’t leave a mess and treat nature with respect. Estonia really goes above and beyond, as their local nature conservation institution, the RMK, provides a great number of free campsites, easily traceable via their app. Most contain sheltered picnic tables, a fireplace with free fire wood, a dry toilet, water access and sometimes even a tent shelter for rainy weather. Truly phenomenal!
Mama Said
- Safety: Estonia is a very safe country. Besides bears there aren’t any dangerous animals, and even the bears are unlikely to interact with humans. Similar to the Estonians themselves: they really keep to themselves and won’t talk to you unless you talk to them. No one will bother you.
- Tap Water: is safe to drink. Estonians also love their natural water sources for water provision, but you’ll generally need a local to point those out to you as they’re not clearly signposted. I drank straight from the streams in the forest without any issues, but I used a lifestraw/filter for the water from the bigger rivers or when close to a town or farmland. However, when cooking a filter wasn’t needed, as the act of boiling already kills the bacteria.
- The best credit/debit card for traveling is Wise, as they use the live conversion rates with minimal exchange fees. Wise also has the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. Revolut is comparable, but they have higher exchange fees in the weekend and less wallet-options. Also, you can only wire money to Revolut in the currency you opened the account with, whereas Wise has IBAN’s from a wide variety of currencies, so you don’t have to pay a double exchange fee. Most Estonian ATMs charge a fee for cash outs, but card payments are generally accepted everywhere, even in the countryside.
- Simcard: Buying a local simcard is by all means cheaper than using your international roaming option. The main providers are Telia, Tele2 and Elisa. Telia has the biggest network coverage and the fastest connection, which makes it most attractive for a hike in the countryside. You can cheaply buy their simcard, confusingly called ‘Super’, in any gas station or supermarket and then download the app to top it up. As usual, never buy a sim at the airport, where you’ll be ripped off with expensive tourist packages. Tip: instead of paying straight away for a calling or data package, first top up via the app and then pay with that money. Like this, you get free bonus data and minutes, while still having the full amount of money available for payments. In order to use your sim outside of Estonia, you must not only allow roaming on your phone, but also in the app (very odd and unusual, I didn’t know this and got stuck in the Latvian forest without reception… and all my Estonian data had already expired once I found out). Elisa has the cheapest deals, but a rather bad reputation. Tele2 is decent, but their connection is not as fast and widespread as Telia’s.
Transport
Next?
- Walking: This is the main purpose of this journey, of course. In the national parks, generally accessible hiking trails are provided.
- Cycling: Estonia is pretty bicycle-friendly with mild and considerate traffic, and even the occasional bicycle lane. Some of the national parks even have specific bicycle tracks, which is in that case indicated in the article.
- Public Transport: Tallinn has a combination of city buses, trolleybuses and trams. However, outside of the capital you can only find buses to get around in town. You can either buy a Ridango card from the bus driver and charge it at the bus stations or pay the bus driver in cash. In most buses, you can’t pay by card. During 2 months in Estonia, I have never been checked though.
- Taxi / Uber: Estonia has taxi apps such as Uber and Bolt. However, the cheaper local app is called Forus.
- Intercity Buses: are very frequent in the bigger cities, but generally only go once or a few times a day in the countryside. Therefore, prior planning is key. Google Maps is unreliable for bus times, as it’s not always up-to-date. Instead, use the local Tpilet app. You can buy tickets on this app as well, or pay in cash or with the Ridango card. Card payments are usually not accepted! Golden budget tip: In the south of the country, if on the Tpilet app it says “no bus tickets available” this generally means the ride is FREE with the Ridango card (which you can buy for EUR 2 from the bus driver). That’s right! I have of course tested this theory, and with one exception, this was indeed true. It includes lines connecting from and to Tartu.
- Train: Estonia’s train network connects certain parts of the country in a rather efficient and budget-friendly manner. The operating company is called Elron, and buying tickets online gives you a 15% discount. Alternatively, you can buy tickets at the train station or in the train itself (they check 100% of the times).
- Car Rental: This is not a cheap endeavour in Estonia. However, the best deals can generally be found when the car is picked up from the airport.
- Airport: Tallinn Airport (TLL). If you’re on a budget, Riga Airport in Latvia generally has much cheaper connections. Affordable buses connect Riga with Tallinn in just a few hours.
- Hitchhiking: is relatively safe in Estonia, but definitively not common. The shy and introverted nature of the Estonians makes them a bit less likely to invite a stranger into their car, so waiting times might be slightly longer compared to other countries. That said, I hitchhiked on plenty occasions in Estonia and I always managed with relative ease (as a woman alone). Keep in mind that when visiting the national parks, hitchhiking might be your best bet due to very limited public transportation options.
Next?
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