Tusheti
Not in the story-mood? Scroll down for the Quick Budget Fact Overview: an itemized information summary of Tusheti ↓
To me, the Caucasus is a name I know from dusty, yellowed schoolbooks… something you know is out there somewhere, but somehow is too magical, too holy to ever consider a place you could actually visit. If only I could travel back in time to tell that little schoolgirl that one day she would be there, in one of the most remote locations of northern Georgia between two parallel ravines, after having travelled a never-ending “death road” of sliding gravel and crashing debris. Tusheti National Park, despite its steadily growing popularity among tourists, truly is an adventure to get to… if you can even reach it to begin with! The road, which is considered one of the riskiest in the world, is barricaded by a wall of snow for most of the year, blocking out even the locals. Only in May/June, when the snow slowly melts an accessway into the wilderness, life returns to Tusheti. When the shepherds return their flocks to their ancient homelands, they’re followed by a steady flow of outdoor enthusiasts, eager to explore this hidden paradise that then finally reveals its unspoilt beauty.
Prior to my visit I was fully aware that remote destinations like this represent difficulties from a budget perspective. However, where’s a will there’s a way: challenge accepted!
Prior to my visit I was fully aware that remote destinations like this represent difficulties from a budget perspective. However, where’s a will there’s a way: challenge accepted!
Photo by Miles Watson Photography.
Hiking
Okay, dear hiking friends… before I get deeper into this topic, there’s one very important thing I need to disclose: Tusheti is NOT a day-hike destination! The main complication is formed by trailheads being located far away from the villages, requiring alternative transport to reach them. However, as hardly any of ‘em are loop hikes, this is rather complicated to intend with your own vehicle as the beginning and end points are far apart. There is no local public transport available. Of course, hitchhiking is an alternative, but the local traffic flow is very minimal and you have to deal with potentially very long waiting times (or not getting a ride at all and wasting a day; or walking back and adding a long distance to an already lengthy and challenging hike). As a result, the best options are organizing local transport, which is very expensive… or traveling with an organized tour package, which usually only allows for very short up-and-down walks suitable for the ‘average tourist’, opposed to the actually interesting and demanding day treks you might have travelled all the way to the Caucasus for. This issue is solved by opting for a multi-day trek, as you will have several days on your hands to complete a lengthy loop and can incorporate the stretches towards the trail heads within the total circuit (although these will be less fascinating parts, needless to say).
Given you have your transport sorted, it’s necessary to mention that the full-day treks are very tough and suitable for experienced hikers only. As a weathered hiker I don’t mind a challenge, but I generally either choose the difficulty level to depend on a considerable distance (30+ km) OR a strenuous elevation gain… never both… however, in Tusheti, every time I got both wrapped into a single hike, demanding the absolute max of my energy and capabilities. I noticed most visitors intend these treks by horse, as indeed some proper horsepower is needed to complete these expeditions. This issue can also be solved by electing a multi-day trek (especially if you go with a tent), as you don’t have the need to return back to your guesthouse: As a result, you can stop whenever you’re tired.
A last concern, affecting both dayhikes and multi-day trips anywhere in Georgia, but especially in shepherd’s paradise Tusheti: the shepherd dogs. They are absolutely terrifying. Size-wise I’m pretty certain one of those beasts can fit 3-4 golden retrievers, and they are drilled to f-u-c-k you up beyond mercy. To make it worse, they are trained to operate in teams, smartly cornering you in from all sides to eliminate all escape routes. I know because I was the target once, which months later still causes me to revert to instant PTSS by the mere sound of any innocent little puppy bark. Locals will grin it away with a certain flair of nonchalance, suggesting you simply “stay at a distance” or “take an alternative trail”. That’s however easier said than done: The shepherds follow the exact same trails that tourists take and as such block the entire accessway, and when you’re on a ridge or in a dense forest there’s no side path available. Especially when you take into account that these dogs consider a solid square kilometre “their terrain” and will come sprinting towards (or after) you from a far distance. As such, I have not completed a single hike in Tusheti without an ongoing lurking tension of paranoia… The best approach is trying to get to an open area where you can spot the shepherd from a distance and have a way of gaining his attention without making too much noise (otherwise the dogs will come for you within seconds). Whenever he confirmed to have seen you, make sure to wait for him to act, to ensure your safe passing. He will be the only person these dogs listen to, so getting him involved is crucial.
Hiking
Okay, dear hiking friends… before I get deeper into this topic, there’s one very important thing I need to disclose: Tusheti is NOT a day-hike destination! The main complication is formed by trailheads being located far away from the villages, requiring alternative transport to reach them. However, as hardly any of ‘em are loop hikes, this is rather complicated to intend with your own vehicle as the beginning and end points are far apart. There is no local public transport available. Of course, hitchhiking is an alternative, but the local traffic flow is very minimal and you have to deal with potentially very long waiting times (or not getting a ride at all and wasting a day; or walking back and adding a long distance to an already lengthy and challenging hike). As a result, the best options are organizing local transport, which is very expensive… or traveling with an organized tour package, which usually only allows for very short up-and-down walks suitable for the ‘average tourist’, opposed to the actually interesting and demanding day treks you might have travelled all the way to the Caucasus for. This issue is solved by opting for a multi-day trek, as you will have several days on your hands to complete a lengthy loop and can incorporate the stretches towards the trail heads within the total circuit (although these will be less fascinating parts, needless to say).
Given you have your transport sorted, it’s necessary to mention that the full-day treks are very tough and suitable for experienced hikers only. As a weathered hiker I don’t mind a challenge, but I generally either choose the difficulty level to depend on a considerable distance (30+ km) OR a strenuous elevation gain… never both… however, in Tusheti, every time I got both wrapped into a single hike, demanding the absolute max of my energy and capabilities. I noticed most visitors intend these treks by horse, as indeed some proper horsepower is needed to complete these expeditions. This issue can also be solved by electing a multi-day trek (especially if you go with a tent), as you don’t have the need to return back to your guesthouse: As a result, you can stop whenever you’re tired.
A last concern, affecting both dayhikes and multi-day trips anywhere in Georgia, but especially in shepherd’s paradise Tusheti: the shepherd dogs. They are absolutely terrifying. Size-wise I’m pretty certain one of those beasts can fit 3-4 golden retrievers, and they are drilled to f-u-c-k you up beyond mercy. To make it worse, they are trained to operate in teams, smartly cornering you in from all sides to eliminate all escape routes. I know because I was the target once, which months later still causes me to revert to instant PTSS by the mere sound of any innocent little puppy bark. Locals will grin it away with a certain flair of nonchalance, suggesting you simply “stay at a distance” or “take an alternative trail”. That’s however easier said than done: The shepherds follow the exact same trails that tourists take and as such block the entire accessway, and when you’re on a ridge or in a dense forest there’s no side path available. Especially when you take into account that these dogs consider a solid square kilometre “their terrain” and will come sprinting towards (or after) you from a far distance. As such, I have not completed a single hike in Tusheti without an ongoing lurking tension of paranoia… The best approach is trying to get to an open area where you can spot the shepherd from a distance and have a way of gaining his attention without making too much noise (otherwise the dogs will come for you within seconds). Whenever he confirmed to have seen you, make sure to wait for him to act, to ensure your safe passing. He will be the only person these dogs listen to, so getting him involved is crucial.
If you’re still full of positive hiking energy (it’s difficult not to be tempted while in such a stunning location), let me list your options:
Tusheti Day Hikes
[Keep in mind that levels of difficulty are very personal. What is difficult for the standard tourist who hardly ever hikes, is a “walk in the park” for a seasoned trekker. I’m a trained and regular hiker, acquainted with mountainous conditions, and as such I qualify relatively flat hikes with pleasant, even trails as “easy”. Every person in decent health should be able to do these, and to fervent hikers they don’t represent a challenge. “Intermediate” hikes include some more demanding and steep stretches and are generally of a decent distance, making it suitable for relatively fit people who hike regularly, with a pleasant challenge here and there. Untrained hikers might regard these intermediate hikes as demanding. “Difficult” hikes involve technical ascends and descends, potential uneven and challenging trail surfaces requiring upper concentration (incl. potential off-trail sections), as well as considerable distances (25-40km for a day trip). “Advanced” hikes require excellent mountaineering and navigation skills, special equipment and potentially a mountain guide.]
Oreti Lake Trek
Starting point: Omalo (few km south). Cross through the countryside fields and ascend down the swirling hairpin curves until you reach the river (the same road you drove upon entering Tusheti). There’s also a trail alongside the road to cut off the hairpin curves, and as such: some distance. Go left after the bridge and follow the dirt road shortly until you see a marked trail going up on the right side.
Distance: 26.7 km.
Elevation gain: 1464m (highest point 2656m).
Level of difficulty: Difficult.
Water sources: Only at the beginning of the hike at the river crossing, and at the Oreti Lake.
Description: The Oreti Lake is potentially one of the most scenic spots of Tusheti. However, it requires a lot of effort. It’s in fact so incredibly steep and demanding that most people decide to complete it on horseback. If you deem yourself fit enough to get yourself up there on your own power, be ready to deal with a long distance, extremely steep ascends/descends and a trail that’s trampled to mush by the horse hoofs. Oh, and an ample supply of shepherd dogs ready to tear you apart. Their presence also makes camping around the lake less desirable than it potentially could be. As an extra nuisance: You will pass a shepherd hut along the way… besides this hut being protected by dogs (who often aren’t tied up), this hut is also notorious for its frisky shepherds likely to make a move on solo female hikers. As I fitted that category, I also had this questionable honor, which combined with the earlier described shepherd dog attack (it happened during this hike) made me feel even more nervous… Especially because I knew I had to pass both dangers again on the way down as there’s no loop trail available. Incredible scenery, but not an ideal hike!
Tusheti Day Hikes
[Keep in mind that levels of difficulty are very personal. What is difficult for the standard tourist who hardly ever hikes, is a “walk in the park” for a seasoned trekker. I’m a trained and regular hiker, acquainted with mountainous conditions, and as such I qualify relatively flat hikes with pleasant, even trails as “easy”. Every person in decent health should be able to do these, and to fervent hikers they don’t represent a challenge. “Intermediate” hikes include some more demanding and steep stretches and are generally of a decent distance, making it suitable for relatively fit people who hike regularly, with a pleasant challenge here and there. Untrained hikers might regard these intermediate hikes as demanding. “Difficult” hikes involve technical ascends and descends, potential uneven and challenging trail surfaces requiring upper concentration (incl. potential off-trail sections), as well as considerable distances (25-40km for a day trip). “Advanced” hikes require excellent mountaineering and navigation skills, special equipment and potentially a mountain guide.]
Oreti Lake Trek
Starting point: Omalo (few km south). Cross through the countryside fields and ascend down the swirling hairpin curves until you reach the river (the same road you drove upon entering Tusheti). There’s also a trail alongside the road to cut off the hairpin curves, and as such: some distance. Go left after the bridge and follow the dirt road shortly until you see a marked trail going up on the right side.
Distance: 26.7 km.
Elevation gain: 1464m (highest point 2656m).
Level of difficulty: Difficult.
Water sources: Only at the beginning of the hike at the river crossing, and at the Oreti Lake.
Description: The Oreti Lake is potentially one of the most scenic spots of Tusheti. However, it requires a lot of effort. It’s in fact so incredibly steep and demanding that most people decide to complete it on horseback. If you deem yourself fit enough to get yourself up there on your own power, be ready to deal with a long distance, extremely steep ascends/descends and a trail that’s trampled to mush by the horse hoofs. Oh, and an ample supply of shepherd dogs ready to tear you apart. Their presence also makes camping around the lake less desirable than it potentially could be. As an extra nuisance: You will pass a shepherd hut along the way… besides this hut being protected by dogs (who often aren’t tied up), this hut is also notorious for its frisky shepherds likely to make a move on solo female hikers. As I fitted that category, I also had this questionable honor, which combined with the earlier described shepherd dog attack (it happened during this hike) made me feel even more nervous… Especially because I knew I had to pass both dangers again on the way down as there’s no loop trail available. Incredible scenery, but not an ideal hike!
Ridge Loop
Starting point: Omalo. If you leave from Lower Omalo, you have to walk via Higher Omalo and get down again. If you can somehow manage to hitchhike to/from the Dartlo/Bochorno split-up (an open field with a B&B / restaurant on the hill) or park your own vehicle there, you will shave off a rather uninteresting 8km stretch on a dirt road and focus your energy on the more interesting, yet demanding ridge ascend.
Distance: 35.6 km.
Elevation gain: 1762m (highest point 3016m).
Level of difficulty: Difficult.
Water sources: There are only some water sources around Bochorno, so bring plenty. You can’t buy any food or supplies in Bochorno. All water sources are marked on my Wikiloc GPS Recording.
Description: I love me a good ridge hike. And certainly, Tusheti doesn’t disappoint in that regard. This long trail-stretch graciously expands towards the clouds, effectively hiding the brutal incline to the naked eye, while providing 360-degrees views pretty much the entire way through. Quite thankfully we had to catch our breath quite often, as any quiet moment to take in these astounding panoramas is a downright gift to the senses. Yet, this trail is marked with some difficulties: Besides the length and the significant elevation gain, you’ll also be taunted by the presence of (you guessed it) territorial shepherd dogs as well as a constant cloud of relentlessly buzzing flies around your head. Seriously, what is up with this place? Did I really smell that bad, or did I randomly teleport into some biblical apocalyptic scene? It slowly drove me to madness (and I’m already pretty nutty by default, so that might’ve been a scene). As an extra lil’ bonus, you’ll pass Bochorna, self-proclaimed “highest inhabited settlement of Europe.”*
* I know most Georgians will be slightly (or very) offended by my statement: but I think it’s bold to assume that Georgia is Europe. How, if the continental border between Europe and Asia literally crosses through Istanbul? I know borders are constantly changing by time and history, and currently the Georgian population strongly identifies with Europe and allegedly adopted “its mindset”… but it simply doesn’t match with the current geographical reality.
Starting point: Omalo. If you leave from Lower Omalo, you have to walk via Higher Omalo and get down again. If you can somehow manage to hitchhike to/from the Dartlo/Bochorno split-up (an open field with a B&B / restaurant on the hill) or park your own vehicle there, you will shave off a rather uninteresting 8km stretch on a dirt road and focus your energy on the more interesting, yet demanding ridge ascend.
Distance: 35.6 km.
Elevation gain: 1762m (highest point 3016m).
Level of difficulty: Difficult.
Water sources: There are only some water sources around Bochorno, so bring plenty. You can’t buy any food or supplies in Bochorno. All water sources are marked on my Wikiloc GPS Recording.
Description: I love me a good ridge hike. And certainly, Tusheti doesn’t disappoint in that regard. This long trail-stretch graciously expands towards the clouds, effectively hiding the brutal incline to the naked eye, while providing 360-degrees views pretty much the entire way through. Quite thankfully we had to catch our breath quite often, as any quiet moment to take in these astounding panoramas is a downright gift to the senses. Yet, this trail is marked with some difficulties: Besides the length and the significant elevation gain, you’ll also be taunted by the presence of (you guessed it) territorial shepherd dogs as well as a constant cloud of relentlessly buzzing flies around your head. Seriously, what is up with this place? Did I really smell that bad, or did I randomly teleport into some biblical apocalyptic scene? It slowly drove me to madness (and I’m already pretty nutty by default, so that might’ve been a scene). As an extra lil’ bonus, you’ll pass Bochorna, self-proclaimed “highest inhabited settlement of Europe.”*
* I know most Georgians will be slightly (or very) offended by my statement: but I think it’s bold to assume that Georgia is Europe. How, if the continental border between Europe and Asia literally crosses through Istanbul? I know borders are constantly changing by time and history, and currently the Georgian population strongly identifies with Europe and allegedly adopted “its mindset”… but it simply doesn’t match with the current geographical reality.
Diklo Fort Hike
Starting point: Omalo, passing through Shenako. Follow the (black/yellow) marked path to the Castle of Love, starting at the Visitors Centre in Lower Omalo. You have to eventually cross a bridge which used to be in poor shape, but has recently been repaired. In the stretch from Shenako to Diklo shepherd dogs are present.
Distance: 11.2km 1-way.
Elevation gain: 659m (highest point 2206m).
Level of difficulty: Easy.
Water sources: There are only some water sources around Bochorna, so bring plenty. You can’t buy any food or supplies in Bochorna.
Description: I haven’t personally done this trail… but I have read good things about Shenako’s balconies and stone roofs, and its “Caste of Love” is surrounded by mystic legends. Like a Georgian version of Romeo and Juliette, also 18th-century Shenako housed a young pair desperately in love, yet strongly opposed by both of their families… even leading to their expulsion. Nobody was allowed to offer a helping hand, but they still managed to build a tower on a hardly accessible bluff above the Pirikiti Alazani Valley. They grew crops and the man hunted for animals, and they eventually raised four sons. One day, the Dagestani tribe plundered and burnt the towns of Diklo and Shenako down, while killing all the men in it. Only the brothers from the Castle of Love survived, who allegedly chased out the army of thousands and returned to the village. There they established their new clans and today's inhabitants consider themselves descendants of these folk heroes.
Starting point: Omalo, passing through Shenako. Follow the (black/yellow) marked path to the Castle of Love, starting at the Visitors Centre in Lower Omalo. You have to eventually cross a bridge which used to be in poor shape, but has recently been repaired. In the stretch from Shenako to Diklo shepherd dogs are present.
Distance: 11.2km 1-way.
Elevation gain: 659m (highest point 2206m).
Level of difficulty: Easy.
Water sources: There are only some water sources around Bochorna, so bring plenty. You can’t buy any food or supplies in Bochorna.
Description: I haven’t personally done this trail… but I have read good things about Shenako’s balconies and stone roofs, and its “Caste of Love” is surrounded by mystic legends. Like a Georgian version of Romeo and Juliette, also 18th-century Shenako housed a young pair desperately in love, yet strongly opposed by both of their families… even leading to their expulsion. Nobody was allowed to offer a helping hand, but they still managed to build a tower on a hardly accessible bluff above the Pirikiti Alazani Valley. They grew crops and the man hunted for animals, and they eventually raised four sons. One day, the Dagestani tribe plundered and burnt the towns of Diklo and Shenako down, while killing all the men in it. Only the brothers from the Castle of Love survived, who allegedly chased out the army of thousands and returned to the village. There they established their new clans and today's inhabitants consider themselves descendants of these folk heroes.
Photo by Miles Watson Photography.
Tusheti Multi-Day Hikes
It’s true that Tusheti isn’t as much of a day-hike-destination such as its national ‘competitors’ Kazbegi and Svaneti… but it certainly has more to offer in terms of multi-day-hikes, as that simply removes the necessity to return before the night falls. Unfortunately I wasn’t lucky enough to experience the perfect weather conditions for this wild-camping-endeavour* (intense rain and thunderstorms all night through for a week straight), but I did the research for you.
* It’s also possible to book accommodation on fixed stopping points, but this is A) not a budget activity as locations outside Lower Omalo quote high nightly rates, and B) it limits your flexibility (I always prefer having the option to stop when I’m tired, or power through when I stumble upon a sudden energy peak). That said, the shepherd-dog-situation might make camping an unpleasant endeavour.
Omalo – Shatili Trek
Starting point: Omalo. You’ll end in Shatili, where you can take a mashrutka (minibus) back to Tbilisi (Thu/Sun at 12pm). It is possible to continue towards Juta / Kazbegi with the extraordinary Chaukhi Pass hike.
Distance: 75km. 3-5 days 1-way. You can sleep in the villages of Chigo, Dartlo, Parsma, Verkhovani or Jvarboseli, although wild camping along the way is common. A potential itinerary is described at the Caucasus Trekking website.
Elevation gain: 2948m (Asunta Pass: 3400m).
Level of difficulty: Moderate-Difficult (harder early or late in season).
Description: This is the most famous multi-day-hike, due to its thrilling mix of architectural and cultural delights combined with breath-taking landscapes and panoramas. Keep in mind that you need permission of the border police (at Girivi) to cross the Asunta Pass, for which a passport is needed. During my visit (end of June) it wasn’t granted to anyone because of the still present snow and ongoing landslides. This obligated several unfortunate hikers to unwillingly turn around and walk the entire way back. The Tusheti Park Office didn’t seem to be too well-informed about the matter, so I recommend always verifying the current state on the Hikers of Georgia Facebook Group.
Tusheti Multi-Day Hikes
It’s true that Tusheti isn’t as much of a day-hike-destination such as its national ‘competitors’ Kazbegi and Svaneti… but it certainly has more to offer in terms of multi-day-hikes, as that simply removes the necessity to return before the night falls. Unfortunately I wasn’t lucky enough to experience the perfect weather conditions for this wild-camping-endeavour* (intense rain and thunderstorms all night through for a week straight), but I did the research for you.
* It’s also possible to book accommodation on fixed stopping points, but this is A) not a budget activity as locations outside Lower Omalo quote high nightly rates, and B) it limits your flexibility (I always prefer having the option to stop when I’m tired, or power through when I stumble upon a sudden energy peak). That said, the shepherd-dog-situation might make camping an unpleasant endeavour.
Omalo – Shatili Trek
Starting point: Omalo. You’ll end in Shatili, where you can take a mashrutka (minibus) back to Tbilisi (Thu/Sun at 12pm). It is possible to continue towards Juta / Kazbegi with the extraordinary Chaukhi Pass hike.
Distance: 75km. 3-5 days 1-way. You can sleep in the villages of Chigo, Dartlo, Parsma, Verkhovani or Jvarboseli, although wild camping along the way is common. A potential itinerary is described at the Caucasus Trekking website.
Elevation gain: 2948m (Asunta Pass: 3400m).
Level of difficulty: Moderate-Difficult (harder early or late in season).
Description: This is the most famous multi-day-hike, due to its thrilling mix of architectural and cultural delights combined with breath-taking landscapes and panoramas. Keep in mind that you need permission of the border police (at Girivi) to cross the Asunta Pass, for which a passport is needed. During my visit (end of June) it wasn’t granted to anyone because of the still present snow and ongoing landslides. This obligated several unfortunate hikers to unwillingly turn around and walk the entire way back. The Tusheti Park Office didn’t seem to be too well-informed about the matter, so I recommend always verifying the current state on the Hikers of Georgia Facebook Group.
Pankisi Valley towards Tusheti Trek
Starting point: Jokolo / Omalo in Pankisi Valley (this is a different Omalo than Tusheti!)
Distance: 87km. 5-6 days 1-way. It’s of course also possible to hike out of Tusheti in the opposite direction, such as the crew from Going the Whole Hogg did. They posted a very detailed trail description here.
Elevation gain: 5256m (3016m highest point).
Level of difficulty: Difficult.
Description: This trail is a great (budget) option if you want to get to Tusheti without a car. It is quite demanding, both in orientation as in the level of physical difficulty, as you have to traverse several saddles. The trail kicks off in Jokolo or Omalo in Pankisi Valley (do not confuse it with Omalo in Tusheti) leading you through the woods, meadows and on upon a ridge. It continues along multiple peaks, with limited drinking water and supplies available. Therefore, the trail requires good preparation and orientation skills. GPS tools are recommended.
Nakaicho Pass Loop
Starting point: Omalo.
Distance: 3-5 days, loop. I unfortunately don’t have exact information on the total distance.
Elevation gain: 5256m (3016m highest point).
Level of difficulty: Difficult.
Description: This trail passes through the lesser known parts of Tusheti, with amazing views on the Gometsari Valley and parts of the Pirikiti Valley. The route starts in Omalo, leads up the Pirikiti Alazani valley towards Dartlo, Chesho and Parsma, and then makes you cross the steep 2900m Nakaicho Pass and on to Verkhovani, returning to Omalo down the Gomtsari Alazani valley. Unfortunately, it involves quite a bit of road walking, which makes it less attractive. Non-road alternatives include approaching Dartlo from Diklo via Chigho, and then taking the panoramic Gonta Ridge route between the Nakaicho Pass and Ghele, instead of taking either of the two valley roads. Keep in mind that you need to bring plenty of water, as on the ridges there isn’t any!
Renting gear: Although I emailed the Tusheti National Park Office in advance and received a written confirmation that sleeping bags could be rented here, this turned out to be not the case. Therefore make sure to arrange your rentals in advance in Tbilisi (for example, in Mplus). Alternatively, the Sagrila Guesthouse where I stayed at provided (rather expensive) rentals, but I’m unaware of the quality these sleeping bags are in.
Starting point: Jokolo / Omalo in Pankisi Valley (this is a different Omalo than Tusheti!)
Distance: 87km. 5-6 days 1-way. It’s of course also possible to hike out of Tusheti in the opposite direction, such as the crew from Going the Whole Hogg did. They posted a very detailed trail description here.
Elevation gain: 5256m (3016m highest point).
Level of difficulty: Difficult.
Description: This trail is a great (budget) option if you want to get to Tusheti without a car. It is quite demanding, both in orientation as in the level of physical difficulty, as you have to traverse several saddles. The trail kicks off in Jokolo or Omalo in Pankisi Valley (do not confuse it with Omalo in Tusheti) leading you through the woods, meadows and on upon a ridge. It continues along multiple peaks, with limited drinking water and supplies available. Therefore, the trail requires good preparation and orientation skills. GPS tools are recommended.
Nakaicho Pass Loop
Starting point: Omalo.
Distance: 3-5 days, loop. I unfortunately don’t have exact information on the total distance.
Elevation gain: 5256m (3016m highest point).
Level of difficulty: Difficult.
Description: This trail passes through the lesser known parts of Tusheti, with amazing views on the Gometsari Valley and parts of the Pirikiti Valley. The route starts in Omalo, leads up the Pirikiti Alazani valley towards Dartlo, Chesho and Parsma, and then makes you cross the steep 2900m Nakaicho Pass and on to Verkhovani, returning to Omalo down the Gomtsari Alazani valley. Unfortunately, it involves quite a bit of road walking, which makes it less attractive. Non-road alternatives include approaching Dartlo from Diklo via Chigho, and then taking the panoramic Gonta Ridge route between the Nakaicho Pass and Ghele, instead of taking either of the two valley roads. Keep in mind that you need to bring plenty of water, as on the ridges there isn’t any!
Renting gear: Although I emailed the Tusheti National Park Office in advance and received a written confirmation that sleeping bags could be rented here, this turned out to be not the case. Therefore make sure to arrange your rentals in advance in Tbilisi (for example, in Mplus). Alternatively, the Sagrila Guesthouse where I stayed at provided (rather expensive) rentals, but I’m unaware of the quality these sleeping bags are in.
Photo by Miles Watson Photography.
How to get there?
The prime aspect to take into account is the time of the year you intend to visit Tusheti: The access road to this entirely remote location is blocked off by snow from about October until May/June, depending on the year. In this timeframe, even locals have evacuated this area, and access is only possible by helicopter. To verify accessibility I recommend calling or emailing the Tusheti National Park Visitor Centre: +995 577101892 / [email protected].
Free: Hitchhiking
Let me break it to you… getting to Tusheti is ex-pen-sive! Where Georgia is post-covid and post-Russian-war far from a cheap travel destination, the costs of reaching Tusheti are breaking all records. Unless you have a sea of time on your hands and you don’t mind getting your ass to Pshaveli to give hitchhiking a go. I must warn you though, it isn’t going to be easy! Most vehicles are transporting paying passengers, and the last thing they’ll do is pick up a freeloader. Even locals have discovered this little gold mine of tourism, and will likely quote you a rate comparable to a seat in the 4x4 jeeps and delica’s. However, you might get lucky! Especially if you have a golden patience and don’t mind even camping along the roadside to try the next day (after all, by getting 1 ride you save the cost of 2 nights accommodation… 4 nights if you travel in a pair!)
I tried it and failed, whereas I have successfully hitchhiked many-many miles in the 2 months I spent in Georgia… but then again, I wasn’t patient enough. We took the 8AM bus from Telavi to Pshaveli, and managed to quickly fix a ride to Lechura, the last village before the Abano Pass. There, after about an hour wait, a man stopped to offer us a ride all te way to Omalo, be it uncomfortably in the back of his trunk… he just had to grab some gas. Even though we confirmed and re-confirmed we were hitchhiking and he even wrote down in a translator that it would be a cost-free ride, he drove us all the way back to Kvemo Alvani and eventually asked us to pay 2-3 TANKS worth of gasoline, approaching the price of 2 seats in an actual comfortable 4x4 jeep. As he wasted 45 minutes of our time by then, and took us away from the perfect hitchhike spot, we irritably just agreed to pay for one of those damn jeep-rides to get it over with, as we weren’t willing to camp along the road for a day. On the way out it was pouring rain, which also didn’t trigger much enthusiasm for the hitchhike option… but we however had managed to negotiate a 50% discount on the ride out.
How to get there?
The prime aspect to take into account is the time of the year you intend to visit Tusheti: The access road to this entirely remote location is blocked off by snow from about October until May/June, depending on the year. In this timeframe, even locals have evacuated this area, and access is only possible by helicopter. To verify accessibility I recommend calling or emailing the Tusheti National Park Visitor Centre: +995 577101892 / [email protected].
Free: Hitchhiking
Let me break it to you… getting to Tusheti is ex-pen-sive! Where Georgia is post-covid and post-Russian-war far from a cheap travel destination, the costs of reaching Tusheti are breaking all records. Unless you have a sea of time on your hands and you don’t mind getting your ass to Pshaveli to give hitchhiking a go. I must warn you though, it isn’t going to be easy! Most vehicles are transporting paying passengers, and the last thing they’ll do is pick up a freeloader. Even locals have discovered this little gold mine of tourism, and will likely quote you a rate comparable to a seat in the 4x4 jeeps and delica’s. However, you might get lucky! Especially if you have a golden patience and don’t mind even camping along the roadside to try the next day (after all, by getting 1 ride you save the cost of 2 nights accommodation… 4 nights if you travel in a pair!)
I tried it and failed, whereas I have successfully hitchhiked many-many miles in the 2 months I spent in Georgia… but then again, I wasn’t patient enough. We took the 8AM bus from Telavi to Pshaveli, and managed to quickly fix a ride to Lechura, the last village before the Abano Pass. There, after about an hour wait, a man stopped to offer us a ride all te way to Omalo, be it uncomfortably in the back of his trunk… he just had to grab some gas. Even though we confirmed and re-confirmed we were hitchhiking and he even wrote down in a translator that it would be a cost-free ride, he drove us all the way back to Kvemo Alvani and eventually asked us to pay 2-3 TANKS worth of gasoline, approaching the price of 2 seats in an actual comfortable 4x4 jeep. As he wasted 45 minutes of our time by then, and took us away from the perfect hitchhike spot, we irritably just agreed to pay for one of those damn jeep-rides to get it over with, as we weren’t willing to camp along the road for a day. On the way out it was pouring rain, which also didn’t trigger much enthusiasm for the hitchhike option… but we however had managed to negotiate a 50% discount on the ride out.
Budget-aware: Rental Car
A cheaper option is completing the journey with a rental car. Even though the rental prices aren’t too low in Georgia, you can split the costs between 4-5 people and you’ll secure transportation in Tusheti… which is highly valuable, as the villages and trail heads are very spread out and there aren’t any public transport options available. That said, you must only attempt this if you are an extremely capable and confident driver who is familiar with a 4x4 and tricky mountainous off-roads. The entire route is dotted with memorials of people who did not survive this journey, which tells you the story about the condition of this road.
Keep in mind that there aren’t any petrol stations in Omalo (the last one is located in Kvemo Alvani), so make sure to bring some extra tanks of gas to avoid unpleasant situations.
Expensive: 4x4 Jeep
The limited access options create splendid opportunities to gloriously milk this situation... and that’s exactly what's happening. Whereas the jeep drivers used to charge 50 lari per person to bring passengers from Kvemo Alvani to Tusheti, the prices have swiftly doubled to 100 (they might be higher again by the time you read this)… and there’s nothing we can do about it.
To get to Kvemo Alvani from Tbilisi, you can take a mashrutka from either the Ortachala (9AM / 4:20PM) or Navtlugi (3:20PM) bus station. Alternatively, you can take a shared taxi from the Isano metro station (they leave when they’re full). This ride will take about 2 hours and goes straight through the Gombori Pass. It’s recommended to take the earliest option, as the shared jeeps stop driving at around midday. Mashrutkas from Telavi to Kvemo Alvani operate more frequently, and the first one leaves the bus station at 8AM.
Car sickness? Bring your pills, you’re in for a wild ride! I almost got a whiplash from the 3-hour sequence of constant shaking!
A cheaper option is completing the journey with a rental car. Even though the rental prices aren’t too low in Georgia, you can split the costs between 4-5 people and you’ll secure transportation in Tusheti… which is highly valuable, as the villages and trail heads are very spread out and there aren’t any public transport options available. That said, you must only attempt this if you are an extremely capable and confident driver who is familiar with a 4x4 and tricky mountainous off-roads. The entire route is dotted with memorials of people who did not survive this journey, which tells you the story about the condition of this road.
Keep in mind that there aren’t any petrol stations in Omalo (the last one is located in Kvemo Alvani), so make sure to bring some extra tanks of gas to avoid unpleasant situations.
Expensive: 4x4 Jeep
The limited access options create splendid opportunities to gloriously milk this situation... and that’s exactly what's happening. Whereas the jeep drivers used to charge 50 lari per person to bring passengers from Kvemo Alvani to Tusheti, the prices have swiftly doubled to 100 (they might be higher again by the time you read this)… and there’s nothing we can do about it.
To get to Kvemo Alvani from Tbilisi, you can take a mashrutka from either the Ortachala (9AM / 4:20PM) or Navtlugi (3:20PM) bus station. Alternatively, you can take a shared taxi from the Isano metro station (they leave when they’re full). This ride will take about 2 hours and goes straight through the Gombori Pass. It’s recommended to take the earliest option, as the shared jeeps stop driving at around midday. Mashrutkas from Telavi to Kvemo Alvani operate more frequently, and the first one leaves the bus station at 8AM.
Car sickness? Bring your pills, you’re in for a wild ride! I almost got a whiplash from the 3-hour sequence of constant shaking!
Photo by Miles Watson Photography.
Budgeting in Tusheti
Accommodation
The Tusheti region consists of approximately 48 villages, of which a big chunk offers accommodation options in the form of homestays. This is a great way to be introduced to the local population, who still strongly connect to Tusheti’s regional identity and local customs. The Couchsurfing community is very limited in this region. The most strategic location to choose as a base of exploration, both in terms to hiking and tourism infrastructure, is the village of Omalo, located on the slope between the Gometsari and Pirikiti Alazani valleys. Omalo is in its turn divided into Lower and Upper Omalo (next to the Keselo Fortress), separated by a short but surprisingly strenuous hike. I noticed that budget accommodation is mainly located in the more rural Lower Omalo, whereas Upper Omalo strongly caters to tourism which is reflected in higher prices. Even though Omalo is the “capital” of the region, expect limited services: No ATM’s, supermarkets or restaurants.
!!! Electricity supply is limited in Tusheti, and as such you won’t be allowed to charge appliances such as laptops, hairdryers etc. Charging your camera and phone is generally allowed. As water scarcity is another local concern, it generally isn’t possible to do your laundry in Tusheti. As a common courtesy, it’s recommended to take short showers only. !!!
Free wild camping is possible everywhere, as there are currently no regulations in place (although the ranger mentioned this might be applied in the foreseeable future!). I recommend camping around the Tusheti National Park Office, as it offers picnic facilities and shady spots with a lovely valley view. Keep in mind that although rarely spotted, bears and other wildlife is present, which makes a bear cannister a useful camping tool!
Budgeting in Tusheti
Accommodation
The Tusheti region consists of approximately 48 villages, of which a big chunk offers accommodation options in the form of homestays. This is a great way to be introduced to the local population, who still strongly connect to Tusheti’s regional identity and local customs. The Couchsurfing community is very limited in this region. The most strategic location to choose as a base of exploration, both in terms to hiking and tourism infrastructure, is the village of Omalo, located on the slope between the Gometsari and Pirikiti Alazani valleys. Omalo is in its turn divided into Lower and Upper Omalo (next to the Keselo Fortress), separated by a short but surprisingly strenuous hike. I noticed that budget accommodation is mainly located in the more rural Lower Omalo, whereas Upper Omalo strongly caters to tourism which is reflected in higher prices. Even though Omalo is the “capital” of the region, expect limited services: No ATM’s, supermarkets or restaurants.
!!! Electricity supply is limited in Tusheti, and as such you won’t be allowed to charge appliances such as laptops, hairdryers etc. Charging your camera and phone is generally allowed. As water scarcity is another local concern, it generally isn’t possible to do your laundry in Tusheti. As a common courtesy, it’s recommended to take short showers only. !!!
Free wild camping is possible everywhere, as there are currently no regulations in place (although the ranger mentioned this might be applied in the foreseeable future!). I recommend camping around the Tusheti National Park Office, as it offers picnic facilities and shady spots with a lovely valley view. Keep in mind that although rarely spotted, bears and other wildlife is present, which makes a bear cannister a useful camping tool!
Food
Keep in mind that due to the limited accessibility, food prices are approximately 3x higher in Tusheti than in the rest of Georgia… and now we’re talking about the products that are in fact available, which is a severely limited selection (there are no supermarkets in Tusheti, just some locals selling some items out of their homes). Most tourists opt for dining at the guesthouses, which is a hearty and convenient option… yet, also a very expensive choice, as the locals are faced with similar high costs when it comes to obtaining their ingredients. Don’t get me wrong, I love sampling local cuisine, especially in a country with such a mouth-watering one… BUT, you can eat this food everywhere else in the country for a much lower price. For a budget approach, I recommend bringing all your food supplies from Tbilisi / Telavi. We decided to store half of our luggage in Tbilisi to create space in our backpacks and literally brought all breakfasts, lunches, dinners and snacks for almost an entire week along into the national park. Make sure to verify if you can use the kitchen and gas supplies of your guesthouse, as this isn’t always the case due to local scarcity… or bring your own cooking gear!
!!! Pork is considered impure. Even though locals might eat pork outside of Tusheti, it’s considered “not done” to bring any pork products into this sacred mountain area. !!!
Keep in mind that due to the limited accessibility, food prices are approximately 3x higher in Tusheti than in the rest of Georgia… and now we’re talking about the products that are in fact available, which is a severely limited selection (there are no supermarkets in Tusheti, just some locals selling some items out of their homes). Most tourists opt for dining at the guesthouses, which is a hearty and convenient option… yet, also a very expensive choice, as the locals are faced with similar high costs when it comes to obtaining their ingredients. Don’t get me wrong, I love sampling local cuisine, especially in a country with such a mouth-watering one… BUT, you can eat this food everywhere else in the country for a much lower price. For a budget approach, I recommend bringing all your food supplies from Tbilisi / Telavi. We decided to store half of our luggage in Tbilisi to create space in our backpacks and literally brought all breakfasts, lunches, dinners and snacks for almost an entire week along into the national park. Make sure to verify if you can use the kitchen and gas supplies of your guesthouse, as this isn’t always the case due to local scarcity… or bring your own cooking gear!
!!! Pork is considered impure. Even though locals might eat pork outside of Tusheti, it’s considered “not done” to bring any pork products into this sacred mountain area. !!!
We ended up surviving 6 days on this, with 2 people. We planned on 3 days.
Quick Budget Fact Overview
Georgia Facts
- Capital: Tbilisi
- Language: Georgian (separate alphabet)
- Population: ± 3.7 mln (Omalo: ± 40, in season)
- Sq km: ± 69,700 (Tusheti: ± 825)
- Currency: Lari (ლ )
- Electricity Outlet: C & F / 220 V / 50 Hz. Check here.
- Country Code Phone: +995 (331)
- Emergency Phone: 113 (ambulance), 111 (fire), 122 (police)
- Visa: Check out the visa requirements here.
- Climate: Subarctic (Dfc)
- High season: ± May/Jun – Sep (varying per year, depending on road opening)
Short History Recap
6200BC - 4000BC: Shulaveri (late Neolithic/Eneolithic culture). 4000BC – 2200BC: Trialeti culture. 3400BC - 2000BC: Kura-Araxes culture. 2500BC - 760BC: Diauehi: Coalition of tribes in north-eastern Anatolia. 1200BC - 600BC: Colchian culture (late Bronze / Iron Age). 700BC: Cimmerians & Scythians invade Georgia + Caucasus. Ancient Greek / Byzantine colonization of Black Sea. 600 BC: Kingdom of Colchis appears (west): Earliest Georgian formation. 302BC: Kingdom of Iberia founded (east). 284BC: Georgian alphabet created. 90BC: Artaxiad Dynasty. 65 BC: Pompey the Great makes Kingdom of Colchis a Roman province. 270: Anti-Roman uprising. 284: Chosroid Dynasty. Around 319: King Mirian III of Iberia declares Christianity as official religion. 5th Century: Fighting against Persian domination. 526-532: Iberian War. 541-562: Lazic War. 627: Perso-Turkic War: Tbilisi sacked by Turks and Byzantines. 654: Arabs enter. 1000: Bagrat III of Georgia founds Kingdom of Georgia. 1040: Seljuk Turks invade --> in 1121 defeated at Battle of Didgori. 1204: Queen Tamar (1184-1213 – 1st female ruler) conquers Black Coast of Byzantine Empire --> Empire of Trebizond created. 1400: Conqueros Timur (Turco-Mongol) invades / destroys / takes 60,000 as slaves to Timurid Empire. 1783: Treaty of Georgievsk --> Katli-Kakheti protectorate of Russia. ’95: Iranian invasion. 1801-04: Most of current Georgia part of the Russian Empire. ’79: Stalin born in Gori. 1918: Independent Georgian state. ’21: Red Army invades (Bolsheviks) à Georgia absorbed into Soviet Union (SU). Independence activists suppressed / killed. ’89: Demands for more autonomy in South Ossetia (SO) --> violent clashes. ‘ 91: Independence from SU declared. Georgian Civil War. SO votes in favour of independence. War in Abkhazia between Georgian government troops and separatist forces --> ’93: Abkhazian drives Georgian troops out. ’94: Ceasefire agreement --> Russian peacekeeping force in region. New currency (lari) introduced. 2001: (Russian) fighters from northern Caucasus back Abkhaz forces fighting against Georgian paramilitaries --> US special forces arrive to train and equip Georgian forces. ’03: Bloodless "Rose Revolution" removes President Shevardnadze (election issues). ’04: Tension in autonomous region Adjara. ’05: Russia starts to withdraw troops. ’06: Explosions on Russian side of border disrupts gas / electricity supplies (suspected sabotage) & suspends imports of Georgian wine. Georgia seizes control of Abkhazia's Kodori Gorge & announces plan for pro-Tbilisi government --> Abkhazia breaks off peace talks. SO vote in favour of independence, again. ’08: Start Russia-Georgia War. Russia strengthens ties with Abkhazia and SO à Georgia accuses them of planning de facto annexation. ’08: Georgia tries to retake SO --> military conflict with Russia: Russia ejects Georgian troops out of SO & Abkhazia. After 5 days: French-brokered peace agreement, but Russia recognizes territories as independent states & keeps military presence. NATO military exercises in Georgia. ’14: EU trade partnership deal. ‘15 August: Russian forces in SO move internal border 1.5 km further into Georgia, threatening main road linking west and east of country.
FREE Sights / Activities
PAID Sights / Activities
Local Festivals
The recent updates about the festival can be found on this Facebook page.
- Sights: Clan Towers; Keselo Fortress; Dartlo; Diklo; Bochorno; Kvavlo; Shenako; Keselo.
- Hikes / Nature: Tusheti National Park. Hikes as described in the article.
PAID Sights / Activities
- Other: Horesriding; Mountainbiking; Off-roading.
Local Festivals
- Atnigenoba, traditional / religious folk events – Jul, Aug (100 days after Easter)
- Tushetian Cheese Festival – May (Akhmeta)
- Zezvaoba – May (Alvani)
The recent updates about the festival can be found on this Facebook page.
Photo by Miles Watson Photography.
Budget Bites
Sleep Cheap
Budget Bites
- Supermarkets: None. You’ll have to “import” everything.
- Markets: None.
- Local Dishes: Typical for Tusheti: Guda Cheese; Khavitsi (fondue); Kotori (Tushetian khachapuri); Khmeli Kalti (sundried cottage cheese dumpling); Kaurma (mutton stew boiled in its own fat). Overall Georgian dishes: Khinkali (dumplings); Acharuli (cheese bread); Khachapuri (cheese bread in different versions); Nigvziani Badrijani (eggplant and walnut paste dish); Lobio (bean stew); Lobiani (bean-stuffed bread); Jonjoli (pickled bladdernut flowers); Tkemali (sour plum sauce); Adjika (spicy tomato sauce); Phkali (vegetable balls); Tolma (meat and rice stuffed in grape or cabbage leaves); Ajapsandali (eggplant ratatouille); Bazhe / Satsizi (walnut sauce); Mchadi / Chishvdari (corn bread with cheese); Gomi / Elarji (cheese corn flour porridge); Gebzhalia (cheese / mint soup); Borano (cheese with boiled butter); Sinori (dough bread with cheese); Gogris Gupta (squash in a ball shape / vegetarian kefta); Qnashi (boiled minced pumpkin seeds); Qababi (kebab); Chakapuli (herbed lamb stew); Mtsvadi (meat skewers); Satsivi (poultry with walnut paste); Bozbashi (soup with lamb / peas / chestnuts / tomatoes); Chehkmeruli (chicken in a cream-based sauce); Puri / Tonis Puri (flatbread); Churchkhela (Georgian snickers). Keep in mind: While accommodation is rather affordable in Georgia, grabbing a bite in a restaurant is not... even more so in Tusheti. Due to the scarcity of supplies in Tusheti, expect to also be charged quite a high price for your meals at the guesthouses. For saving I recommend bringing your own supplies – verify with the guesthouse in advance if you are allowed to use the kitchen and gas (this isn’t always the case in Tusheti).
- The Veg Situation: Going veg is rather complicated in Georgia, as meat is the main ingredient in most meals. However, where there’s a will there’s a way and there are plenty ‘accidentally vegan / vegetarian’ typical Georgian dishes. Find all veg-friendly in this destination here. Local veg dishes (descriptions above): Mushroom / Potato Khinkali; Acharuli; Khachapura; Nigvziani Badrijani (vegan); Lobio (vegan – verify no meat is added); Lobiani (vegan if not prepared in butter); Jonjoli (vegan); Tkemali (vegan); Adjika (vegan); Phkali (vegan); Ajapsandali (vegan); Bazhe / Satsizi (vegan); Mchadi / Chishvdari; Gomi / Elarji; Gebzhalia; Borano; Sinori; Gogris Gupta; Qnashi (vegan); Puri / Tonis Puri (vegan); Churchkhela (vegan); Tarkhunis Ghvezeli (tarragon stuffed bread).
- National Drink: Wine; Chacha. Aludi is the Tushetian beer. Nikhi is the local strong alcoholic beverage.
- The local food delivery app is called Glovo, which isn’t available in Tusheti.
- Georgia is known for its hospitality, sometimes to an almost pushy level. It’s very common to have alcohol (especially chacha) offered to you and a refusal can be deemed offensive. Vegans / vegetarians might encounter the same issue when having food offered to them, typically containing meat and dairy.
Sleep Cheap
- Hostels / Hotels: are relatively cheap in Georgia. If you’re with 2 people or more, a private room or apartment is similar priced as a dormitory bed in a hostel. I personally found the best deals on Booking.com. They also have the biggest selection, are transparent about the final price and have an efficient search engine tailored to your specific needs. If you use it often enough, generous Genius-discounts are applied. I heard some tourists claim that a phone call to the accommodation shaves some extra cash off the Booking.com price, but I don’t have the same experience. A problem with Air BnB is that they’re not only more expensive, but many listings that you can book aren’t actually available. After you paid you’ll receive some message in Georgian or Russian that they’re closed for whatever reason, after which you’ll have to attempt to let them officially cancel so you get your money back (generally, if you cancel as a customer there’s only a partial refund). Very annoying! As such: Always email them first to verify if they’re in fact open. Agoda is often not transparent about prices, adding a lot of additional costs in the last booking-step. Opodo is a better alternative. Generally, you are expected to pay in cash. Writer’s choice: I stayed at the rather affordable Sagrila Guesthouse in Lower Omalo. The friendly and welcoming family offered spacious rooms with a pleasant, shared patio and warm showers. We were also allowed to use the kitchen, which is a big plus.
- Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost (unless you put a third-world country as homebase), but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate request explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored). Kutaisi has a decent Couchsurfing community. Alternatives are Trust Roots, Be Welcome, Host A Sister and Warm Showers (for cyclists).
- Housesitting: is an amazing exchange allowing you to stay short- or long-term in somebody’s house, while looking after their house and pets. There are many different websites, most of them paid… but once you landed a sit, the subscription fee is pays itself back quickly. The main housesitting site is Trusted Housesitters.
- Wild Camping: is entirely legal in Georgia! Read more about recommended spots for wild camping in Tusheti in the article above.
Photo by Miles Watson Photography.
Mama Said
Mama Said
- Safety: Georgia is a very safe country, but use your common sense like everywhere. Don’t walk alone in remote areas after sunset, don’t take valuables along and follow your instincts. As a woman alone you might receive unwanted attention from the shepherds, especially around the shepherd hut on the way up to Oreti. It's better to hike in pairs here. Keep also in mind that there are no hospitals or medical services in Tusheti.
- Steer clear of shepherd dogs! This is a hard task, as they’re often right on the hiking trails and they consider a large area their domain. However, if you have the opportunity to signal to the shepherd in silence, do so in advance so he can ensure your safe passing. Tusheti is the most shepherd-dog-loaded area of the country and these bear-sized animals are truly terrifying. They’re trained to be aggressive and ruthless when it comes to protecting their flocks, and you won’t be an exception to them. I had quite a traumatizing experience here.
- There are no ATM’s in Tusheti! And card payments generally aren’t accepted. Make sure to cash out in advance, and take a bit more than you think you need. The closest ATM is in Kvemo Alvani.
- The best credit/debit card for traveling is Wise, as they use the live conversion rates without any extra fees and you can create a Georgian wallet. Wise also has the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. Keep in mind that some ATMs charge a fee, the amount always indicated before completing the transaction. Payment by card is generally accepted in bigger supermarkets, but smaller shops always require cash. Accommodation is generally paid in cash.
- Tap Water: is drinkable.
- Internet situation: Some guesthouses in Tusheti have Wi-Fi, but certainly not all. Therefore, It’s recommended to arrange a simcard in advance, as this isn’t sold in Tusheti itself. Acquiring a sim card is pretty straightforward and very affordable (avoid the pricy EU roaming charges by getting a local sim). Don’t get a tourist package, which is more expensive than a regular package. You can go to any phone shop in the cities with your passport and buy the sim and package that interests you, and they’ll help you to set it up. Magti is said to have the best coverage in Georgia, and they sell both 7-days and 30-days packages. After the first installation, you can simply extend and pay with their app, which is also available in English. Alternatives are Geocell (poor coverage) and Beeline (cheaper but said to have worse service).
- Georgia’s insane inflation: Almost all prices I found online (even in quite recent articles) have doubled or tripled. I was told that both Covid and the Russian War have caused an incredible inflation, so everything is unfortunately much more expensive than it used to be. I still didn’t consider Georgia an expensive country, but I found food, entry prices to attractions and museums as well as public transport not as cheap as I expected it to be.
- Tusheti behavioral codes: Women aren’t allowed to approach shrines or sacred areas. Pork isn’t allowed into Tusheti, as it’s considered impure. Dismount your horse when entering a village. Dress conservatively.
Transport
Next?
- Walking: The villages in Tusheti are very small and everything within the villages will be at walking distance. However, the climb from Lower to Upper Omalo is more challenging than it might seem on the map. The distances between the different villages and towards the head of hiking trails is considerable, and can be a day hike on its own. Therefore, I recommend hitchhiking or paid transportation for this.
- Cycling: Cycling is a feasible option for those trained to get around in mountainous conditions. You will have to bring your own bicycle.
- City Buses / Tram / Metro: Not available.
- Taxi / Uber: Not available.
- Intercity Buses: Not available. The only way in is per 4x4, for which you have to pay per seat. This is very expensive, and the prices had doubled in a year’s time. (anno 2022 the price was 100 lari per seat 1-way).
- Train: Not available.
- Car Rental: Car rental is rather pricy in Georgia and only suitable for very confident drivers. The road to Tusheti is notoriously dangerous, nicknamed the “death road” of Georgia. It’s an extremely challenging dirt road with loose gravel, occasional floods as well as debris and rocks tumbling down. Every corner is embellished with memorials of those who lost their lives there. In short: Unless you’re an extremely confident and capable driver and have a reliable 4x4 vehicle at your disposal, it isn’t recommended to attempt this road.
- Airport: Tbilisi International Airport (TBS); David the Builder Kutaisi International Airport (KUT).
- Hitchhiking: is not easy here, as there’s simply too much money to be made on this road. Most cars that will pass by are the paid vans, and they definitely won’t pull over for a non-paying passenger. Also locals heading that way will ask you to contribute an amount which will equal the seat-cost (this happened to us). It’s not impossible, but expect potential hours of waiting time. Once in Tusheti, I had more luck hitchhiking around from village to village, although waiting times can still be quite long due to a limited traffic flow. More info at Hitchwiki.
Next?
- National Destinations Close By: Telavi; Kvareli; Sighnaghi; Tbilisi.
- International Destinations: Armenia; Azerbaijan; Turkey; Russia.
In order to support the travelers’ community, I spend many hours per week to adequately document all information and advices for prospective visitors, accompanied by a (hopefully) entertaining insight into my personal observations and experiences. This service is and will remain free. However, if you voluntarily want to make a contribution and support my travels and thus the creation of new stories and information supply, here is the button you’re looking for:
Related:
- Continue your journey in Armenia: Visit Yerevan, Khor Virap, Lake Sevan, Garni, Gyumri, Dilijan, Berdavan, Areni, Goris and Tatev
- The best hiking destinations of Armenia: Mount Aragats, Dilijan and the southern Legend's (Transcaucasian) Trail
- Europe's best skiing & hiking: Get your ass over to jaw-dropping Switzerland!
- The 3 golden rules to travel Sofia on a budget! & Why you shouldn’t miss out on Plovdiv! [Bulgaria]
- Check out Budget Bucket List's FAVORITE HIKING DESTINATIONS worldwide!
- Visit Balkan's finest: Montenegro's National Parks Blog, Kotor Bay & Lovcen NP and Cetinje, Podgorica, Prokletije NP and Montenegro's Coastal Towns Blog
- 10 typical Dutch celebrations no traveller should miss out on
- History preserved: Time capsule of Romanian culture Maramures
- Get your Albania itinerary ready: Berat, Gjirokastër, Korcë / Ohrid Lake, Theth, Shkodër, Tirana, Mount Korab & the coast!
- The 3 golden rules to travel Sofia on a budget! & Why you shouldn’t miss out on Plovdiv! [Bulgaria]
- Where modern meets classic: Vilnius, Lithuania
- 8 ways to save money in Vienna, Austria
- German gems: Aachen & Frankfurt am Main
- Europe's best skiing & hiking: Get your ass over to jaw-dropping Switzerland!
- Budget Bucket List hitchhike trip to... Kosovo!
- Unravel the mysteries of Serbia
- Discover the splendours of Turkey: Istanbul on a Budget & Reasons to visit Edirne
- Continue your journey in Armenia: Visit Yerevan, Khor Virap, Lake Sevan, Garni, Gyumri, Dilijan, Berdavan, Areni, Goris and Tatev
- The best hiking destinations of Armenia: Mount Aragats, Dilijan and the southern Legend's (Transcaucasian) Trail
- Europe's best skiing & hiking: Get your ass over to jaw-dropping Switzerland!
- The 3 golden rules to travel Sofia on a budget! & Why you shouldn’t miss out on Plovdiv! [Bulgaria]
- Check out Budget Bucket List's FAVORITE HIKING DESTINATIONS worldwide!
- Visit Balkan's finest: Montenegro's National Parks Blog, Kotor Bay & Lovcen NP and Cetinje, Podgorica, Prokletije NP and Montenegro's Coastal Towns Blog
- 10 typical Dutch celebrations no traveller should miss out on
- History preserved: Time capsule of Romanian culture Maramures
- Get your Albania itinerary ready: Berat, Gjirokastër, Korcë / Ohrid Lake, Theth, Shkodër, Tirana, Mount Korab & the coast!
- The 3 golden rules to travel Sofia on a budget! & Why you shouldn’t miss out on Plovdiv! [Bulgaria]
- Where modern meets classic: Vilnius, Lithuania
- 8 ways to save money in Vienna, Austria
- German gems: Aachen & Frankfurt am Main
- Europe's best skiing & hiking: Get your ass over to jaw-dropping Switzerland!
- Budget Bucket List hitchhike trip to... Kosovo!
- Unravel the mysteries of Serbia
- Discover the splendours of Turkey: Istanbul on a Budget & Reasons to visit Edirne