Córdoba (Province)
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One essential travel tip: FIRST Google a place, then go.
If not, you might miss out big time. That happened to me when I visited Córdoba the first time (of which you can find the blog here). I spent a wonderful week in the city, did a day hike to the splendid Playa de los Hippies… and left.
If not, you might miss out big time. That happened to me when I visited Córdoba the first time (of which you can find the blog here). I spent a wonderful week in the city, did a day hike to the splendid Playa de los Hippies… and left.
Playa de los Hippies in 2014… I’m still on the same trip haha.
However, what I didn’t realize back then is how amazing the whole province is, with many daytrips and overnight do-it-yourself-excursions within hitch-hike’s reach. So I went back… for 3 full weeks: no unfinished business this time!
Cheap as I am I refused to pay the 850 ARS$ bus ride, so I went to the peaje Lima (toll road stop) in Zarate instead, just outside Buenos Aires. Within 3 minutes I had 2 different hitch-hikes to choose from, it’s really that easy. Adrian the trucker turned out to be great company taking me straight to Córdoba in his reggeaton-disco on wheels, a 10-hour ride full of mates and stroopwafels (a Dutch delicacy).
However, what I didn’t realize back then is how amazing the whole province is, with many daytrips and overnight do-it-yourself-excursions within hitch-hike’s reach. So I went back… for 3 full weeks: no unfinished business this time!
Cheap as I am I refused to pay the 850 ARS$ bus ride, so I went to the peaje Lima (toll road stop) in Zarate instead, just outside Buenos Aires. Within 3 minutes I had 2 different hitch-hikes to choose from, it’s really that easy. Adrian the trucker turned out to be great company taking me straight to Córdoba in his reggeaton-disco on wheels, a 10-hour ride full of mates and stroopwafels (a Dutch delicacy).
Hitchhiking with my soon-to-be-trucker-friend Adrian... if hitchhiking is too hardcore for you: I found the cheapest car rentals of Argentina here
As expected, the city of Córdoba was one big deja-vu with its unquestionable highlights and old friends. I met up with former tango-partner Martín and took the opportunity to check out if Museo Emilio Caraffa, Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes and Museo Antropologia changed their collection. This time I noticed the subtle details that make this city interesting, like the residential lanes scattered with orange trees (free fruit for everyone!) and the typical regional zzzzzzj-accent. [F.e.: “Calle” is in Latin-America generally pronounced as ‘Kà-jè’, in Buenos Aires as ‘Kà-shè’ and in Córdoba as ´Ká-zzzzjè´… I didn’t hear the difference the first time as I didn’t speak Spanish back then to begin with].
As expected, the city of Córdoba was one big deja-vu with its unquestionable highlights and old friends. I met up with former tango-partner Martín and took the opportunity to check out if Museo Emilio Caraffa, Museo Municipal de Bellas Artes and Museo Antropologia changed their collection. This time I noticed the subtle details that make this city interesting, like the residential lanes scattered with orange trees (free fruit for everyone!) and the typical regional zzzzzzj-accent. [F.e.: “Calle” is in Latin-America generally pronounced as ‘Kà-jè’, in Buenos Aires as ‘Kà-shè’ and in Córdoba as ´Ká-zzzzjè´… I didn’t hear the difference the first time as I didn’t speak Spanish back then to begin with].
But as said, I didn’t come for the city, the province was all mine to discover!
Villa General Carlos Paz
I was warned this easy microbus-daytrip would lead me to a slick polished tourist trap mainly catering to rich national holiday-makers. After visiting this place I have to confirm that this is indeed correct, but it’s pretty nevertheless. And that’s where we do it for right, prettiness? I took my time for a relaxed picnic on the lakeside and initiated the (free) steep climb to the top of Cerro de la Cruz, which rewards you with magnificent views over this sunny municipality.
Villa General Carlos Paz
I was warned this easy microbus-daytrip would lead me to a slick polished tourist trap mainly catering to rich national holiday-makers. After visiting this place I have to confirm that this is indeed correct, but it’s pretty nevertheless. And that’s where we do it for right, prettiness? I took my time for a relaxed picnic on the lakeside and initiated the (free) steep climb to the top of Cerro de la Cruz, which rewards you with magnificent views over this sunny municipality.
Later on I learned this hill is notorious for separate cases of disappearances and murders… and even recently a teenage girl got killed here, after which the assassin presumably posted ‘selfies’ of his dead victim on her social media. Sinister! However, if it comforts you: recent crimes have brought a well-organized park registration into existence, which tracks the whereabouts of the climbers. Another tourist attraction is a giant cuckoo-clock jingling every half hour… Don’t ask me if it’s worth it though, as I didn’t have the patience to wait for it.
Tren de las Sierras / Cosquin
A local tip led me to the northern train station, where you can buy a ridiculously cheap ticket for a super-slow/super-scenic train ride from Córdoba to Cosquin, straight through the lush hills and mountains decorating the province. As the train-tracks cut straight through the slums, the windows are covered to prevent rocks being tossed in (a robbery technique)… but don’t let that pull you off. The polluted rivers full of plastic and human waste beautifully slowly turn into the purest of nature the Earth has to offer, which is usually the case when humankind is at a safe distance. Cosquin is much bigger then it feels and offers gorgeous walks along the river, treating you with satisfying look-out points. Definitely recommended!
A local tip led me to the northern train station, where you can buy a ridiculously cheap ticket for a super-slow/super-scenic train ride from Córdoba to Cosquin, straight through the lush hills and mountains decorating the province. As the train-tracks cut straight through the slums, the windows are covered to prevent rocks being tossed in (a robbery technique)… but don’t let that pull you off. The polluted rivers full of plastic and human waste beautifully slowly turn into the purest of nature the Earth has to offer, which is usually the case when humankind is at a safe distance. Cosquin is much bigger then it feels and offers gorgeous walks along the river, treating you with satisfying look-out points. Definitely recommended!
Villa General Belgrano
Have you always wanted to go to Germany, but never had the time/money/other excuse? Well, here’s your chance. Villa General Belgrano is more German than Germany was or ever will be, which is mildly unsettling. This small mountain village was founded in 1930 by some Germans with agricultural motives and in 1940s accompanied by 130 surviving German sailors of the sunken battleship of Admiral Graf Spee. They might have slightly overdone it…
Have you always wanted to go to Germany, but never had the time/money/other excuse? Well, here’s your chance. Villa General Belgrano is more German than Germany was or ever will be, which is mildly unsettling. This small mountain village was founded in 1930 by some Germans with agricultural motives and in 1940s accompanied by 130 surviving German sailors of the sunken battleship of Admiral Graf Spee. They might have slightly overdone it…
There was literally no space being spared from Pretzels, Apfelstrüdeln and Leberwürst and every street corner and every shop had some Lederhosen-beer-mascot-statue inviting for some over-the-top-tourist-snapshots. Also, VGB turns into a Latino version of Münich during their yearly abundantly celebrated Oktoberfest. They must have really missed their home, turning this place into one big fiesta of stereotypes. Go and have a look, it’s wirklich ganz geil.
La Cumbrecita
*Tingeling* This place immediately made its entrance into my personal Argentina top-3! The drive alone through the copper-colored slopes and endless panoramas of heavenly nothingness are worth every investment in time and money. Argentina is so foolishly beautiful, it’s hard to grasp sometimes. La Cumbrecita is comprised of landscapes even my most vivid dreams can’t put together. This idyllic predominantly Swiss village is lying small and pretty in the mountains, connected with dirt road only. How I could have missed this the first time is beyond my comprehension, but this time it was an unmistakable case of love at first sight.
*Tingeling* This place immediately made its entrance into my personal Argentina top-3! The drive alone through the copper-colored slopes and endless panoramas of heavenly nothingness are worth every investment in time and money. Argentina is so foolishly beautiful, it’s hard to grasp sometimes. La Cumbrecita is comprised of landscapes even my most vivid dreams can’t put together. This idyllic predominantly Swiss village is lying small and pretty in the mountains, connected with dirt road only. How I could have missed this the first time is beyond my comprehension, but this time it was an unmistakable case of love at first sight.
Well, what are the odds? This must be destiny.
After I checked in at Hostel Planeta, the only one in town, I immediately put on my hiking boots to make it down to Lago de la Trucha (trout lake)… If paradise only slightly resembles this I might consider religion after all. Sun-kissed eroded rocks are only separated by crystal clear reviving streams leading into an aquamarine lake full of fish, not eaten away by humanity. No pollution, no sounds except of the water flowing… just a unique get-together of everything that makes this world worth living on.
After I checked in at Hostel Planeta, the only one in town, I immediately put on my hiking boots to make it down to Lago de la Trucha (trout lake)… If paradise only slightly resembles this I might consider religion after all. Sun-kissed eroded rocks are only separated by crystal clear reviving streams leading into an aquamarine lake full of fish, not eaten away by humanity. No pollution, no sounds except of the water flowing… just a unique get-together of everything that makes this world worth living on.
I continued my stroll to Cerro Wank. It might not be the most gracious name, but I’m sure this spot indeed brought satisfaction to many. Stretch up, as this is quite a demanding climb… but, as the locals say it, vale la pena (it’s worth the pain). Views? Stunning. Silence? Overwhelming. After the city sounds of Buenos Aires and Córdoba, this is all I needed.
I demonstrate to you: the cold-pasta-in-plastic-back-without-cutlery-lunch. A backpackers’ classic.
Beware: even though the local tourist desk holds the opinion that all routes are very well-indicated, I managed to get lost dramatically to the point I had to re-enter the village from the other side (detour hello!). However, that allowed me some necessary sight-seeing past the Confluencia river junction and the (unfortunately closed) Museo de Minerales, all the way back to Cerro Cumbrecita and the La Olla Waterfall. I returned to the hostel via Camino del Bosque, wooden forest nymphs and timber gnomes guiding the way. Today was a good day.
The next day an early alarm woke me up for the short hike to Cascada Grande, the so-called ‘big waterfall´. Don’t expect a second Iguazú here, but it’s a nice sight. I walked back to ascend to the Mirador El Indio, from where I supposedly could make a loop to the El Peñal look-out. However, there are no roads and zero signs, so I ended up clueless maneuvering myself through the bushes… winding up at some cemetery in the middle of a dense forest on top of a mountain… without entrances. That’s just plain bizarre and slightly creepy, if I might conclude. However, I always embrace the weirdness, so this is exactly where I consumed my travel-snack in the delightful company of a mellow cow.
It took me yet another hour to find my way out of the wilderness, after which I hitch-hiked out of town with a shop-owner recognizing me as ‘the funny Dutch vegan’. I subsequently scored another two rides leaving me in the village of Altagracia…
Altagracia
As the trucker I happened to be hitch-hiking with lived in the tranquil hamlet of Altagracia, the opportunity to discover Che Guevarra’s former home base presented itself to me just like that. My visit to the local tourist desk taught me I had the option to check out some parks, a Jesuit settlement or a small selection of museums.
As I’m not entirely interested in the oppressive history made possible by Christianity, Museo Casa Che seems the most suitable choice. Swiftly I scanned the entrance price sign [ARS$ 85 for foreigners, 45 for students and 15 for locals] and decided I would be Argentinean that day. Luck had it I kind of mastered the sh-sh-porteño-accent and overheated Italian-style-hand-gestures, and sunglasses were covering my blue eyes, so I miraculously passed the test. Self-high-five! Good for me, as even though I thoroughly enjoyed Che’s former house filled with (Spanish) information-boards and artifacts, US$ 5,50 is slightly exaggerated.
As the trucker I happened to be hitch-hiking with lived in the tranquil hamlet of Altagracia, the opportunity to discover Che Guevarra’s former home base presented itself to me just like that. My visit to the local tourist desk taught me I had the option to check out some parks, a Jesuit settlement or a small selection of museums.
As I’m not entirely interested in the oppressive history made possible by Christianity, Museo Casa Che seems the most suitable choice. Swiftly I scanned the entrance price sign [ARS$ 85 for foreigners, 45 for students and 15 for locals] and decided I would be Argentinean that day. Luck had it I kind of mastered the sh-sh-porteño-accent and overheated Italian-style-hand-gestures, and sunglasses were covering my blue eyes, so I miraculously passed the test. Self-high-five! Good for me, as even though I thoroughly enjoyed Che’s former house filled with (Spanish) information-boards and artifacts, US$ 5,50 is slightly exaggerated.
Capilla del Monte
Another undeniable must-see, Capilla del Monte was worth the four hitch-hikes (1-way), freezing cold and the massive piece of glass cutting its way through both my shoe and foot (because that’s what mankind does, throwing shattered glass in nature… fun!). Even though my fresh wound didn’t allow any demanding hikes, I had the grandiose opportunity to admire the natural grace of places like Dique el Cajón, Complejo El Zapato and the lower base of Cerro Uriturco. The perfect spots to make a few of those Facebook-photos that instantly fulfill your online friendbase with jealous hatred and repulsion of their own office-routine-based-daily-life (and god, that feels good sometimes!).
Another undeniable must-see, Capilla del Monte was worth the four hitch-hikes (1-way), freezing cold and the massive piece of glass cutting its way through both my shoe and foot (because that’s what mankind does, throwing shattered glass in nature… fun!). Even though my fresh wound didn’t allow any demanding hikes, I had the grandiose opportunity to admire the natural grace of places like Dique el Cajón, Complejo El Zapato and the lower base of Cerro Uriturco. The perfect spots to make a few of those Facebook-photos that instantly fulfill your online friendbase with jealous hatred and repulsion of their own office-routine-based-daily-life (and god, that feels good sometimes!).
Combined with the excellent welcome of Couchsurfing host Alberto and his son, as well as the abundant vegan food supply, this was an absolute smasher!
And oh, if you’re into aliens and shit, don’t hesitate any longer. The place is supposedly swarming with extraterrestrial activity and the entire local citymarketing-strategy depends on it: E.T. ahoy! [Yeah… pretty sure that’s not the movie slogan… but I never managed to watch any movie slightly related to science-fiction longer than 3 minutes].
Parque Nacional Quebrada del Condorito
If there’s one thing that endlessly fascinates me in this country it’s the abrupt changes in temperature. You can easily start the day in your tanktop and shorts to end up in your ski-jacket an hour later. Yes, I said SKI-JACKET. Via the Couchsurfing platform I was in touch with veterinarian Ale(jandro) who invited us to watch the condors in one of Argentina’s many national parks. Even though it wasn’t condor season, the 2 spotted condors and snowy (!) hike through the sensation pastel-colored landscape created priceless memories.
If there’s one thing that endlessly fascinates me in this country it’s the abrupt changes in temperature. You can easily start the day in your tanktop and shorts to end up in your ski-jacket an hour later. Yes, I said SKI-JACKET. Via the Couchsurfing platform I was in touch with veterinarian Ale(jandro) who invited us to watch the condors in one of Argentina’s many national parks. Even though it wasn’t condor season, the 2 spotted condors and snowy (!) hike through the sensation pastel-colored landscape created priceless memories.
With a full collection of pink- and purple colored stones and an endless supply in excited anecdotes I returned to our new temporary home in Córdoba City: the residence of Nico, probably the most kind-hearted and good-natured chap on the entire Couchsurfing network.
P.S. There is no entrance price for this NP, woohoo!
P.S. There is no entrance price for this NP, woohoo!
Tantí
Last stop: Tantí. The idea was to visit the praised mountain range of Los Gigantes, but you know… always when I plan to get out of bed early, it just never happens. The moment we reached Tantí the only bus up already left and there was zero traffic to hitch-hike with. So downtown Tantí it was! You could be stranded in worse spots, I must say… This tiny village is home of the Diquecito Waterfall, after which you can discover a delightful walking track into sunny landscapes marked by lavish streams and tranquil greenery.
A wonderful finishing point of three weeks of awe-inspiring Córdoba, which goes far beyond the city madness of its capital.
Last stop: Tantí. The idea was to visit the praised mountain range of Los Gigantes, but you know… always when I plan to get out of bed early, it just never happens. The moment we reached Tantí the only bus up already left and there was zero traffic to hitch-hike with. So downtown Tantí it was! You could be stranded in worse spots, I must say… This tiny village is home of the Diquecito Waterfall, after which you can discover a delightful walking track into sunny landscapes marked by lavish streams and tranquil greenery.
A wonderful finishing point of three weeks of awe-inspiring Córdoba, which goes far beyond the city madness of its capital.
Thank you, Argentina.
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- A 3-day trek through the remotest parts of Bolivia
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- Green in Colombia: Minca, Salento & Tayrona National Park
- An overnight forest hike in the hottest part of Paraguay
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- Nature at its finest: Monteverde, Costa Rica
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