Perakula-Aegviidu-Ahijarve Trail

Peraküla-Aegviidu-Ähijärve Trail

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I had no idea what was awaiting me. Life is by default better that way. Anticipation of something good upon your way has the luring danger of potential disappointment, due to a disproportionate buildup… whereas the power of the unsuspected creates an even bigger euphoria when luck suddenly strikes you. Anticipation of something bad to happen only unnecessarily sheds a dark cloud of fear and depression upon the prior period, as such expanding the misery… whereas an unexpected misfortune can easily be handled with on-the-spot strength and improvisation, shortening the experienced discomfort. Therefore, I was in the lucky mindset of not having a damn clue what adventure was ahead of me when booking a flight to the Baltics with the vague idea to walk Estonia’s longest trail.

It was a trail I couldn’t even pronounce: Peraküla Aegviidu Ahijarve. I would’ve named it something catchier, like the Estoni-PAA or the Pera Path, but alas. What worried and as such simultaneously excited me more tough: It was also a highly obscure and off-the-grid trail I could hardly find any information about. Besides some short introduction on the Visit Estonia website and a handful of scattered paragraphs written in the native language by some occasion-bloggers, Google gave me nothing really practical. The most useful was the Loodusegakoos website, as that one at least provided me with the GPS-files and a distance table… but what about the most crucial piece of information: the water situation? Or where to replenish food and how often? The level of safety? The ease of finding a sleeping spot? The not-knowing is a glorious state of being, but some information is crucial for survival.

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My calls into the voids of Facebook, failed attempts to trace down the apparently non-existent PAA hiking “community”, remained initially unanswered… And when I emailed the only two online resources I could find, the answers were so far apart that I had no answer at all:

→ The Visit Estonia office replied they had no information for me and forwarded me to local tourist offices, who in their turn didn’t get any further than “Estonia is very safe, don’t worry” and “take mosquito repellent.”

→ Then the RMK, the Estonian hiking and outdoor authority, told me the following, and I’m quoting: “The possibility of replenishing food supplies is not regular: you should consider at least a 2 weeks' (2 WEEKS!!!) supply. Most water is non-potable, there are many days without (that’s not really an option!). Camping is allowed only in designated campsites. There are only 7 huts and just a few accommodation options. Our nature is home to wild animals, including predators and vipers.” Signed by the communication manager.

As it turned out, basically everything that RMK-person said was false information: You can get food every 1-3 days; almost all water is potable and it’s all around you; and Estonian law legalizes wild camping literally everywhere, except on private land. Still, it had the power to make me doubt, as only in retrospect I could know the actual accurate state of affairs. Luckily, eventually one female hiker reached out, who completed the trail 8 years ago. The self-explanatory hiking companionship caused us to meet up in Tallinn, where she personally provided me with all information I needed. Information I can hand to you now as well, as we hikers form a fellowship, we look out for one another.

Loodusegakoos provides the GPS-files and distance table. To save the effort to click through their entire website, you cand download the same files here:

Distances
File Size:	37 kb
File Type:	xls

Download File

GPX
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File Type:	gpx

Download File

I recommend using my GPS-files for the first few days, as I marked all water sources, campsites, food replenishment options and warnings on there. This information you cannot find on the GPX-files above.

The RMK published a Google Maps file (in Estonian) incl. all campsites and huts. Click here.

The hiking map per section in a PDF file can be downloaded here. The map is also available in paper at the RMK (forest department) offices.

My Estonian hiking contact made a very useful water table overview, which you are welcome to download here:

Water
File Size:	232 kb
File Type:	pdf

Download File

Now we got that out of the way, let’s rewind to the kick-off:

Day 0: Peraküla

(Getting to the starting point from Tallinn)

Recorded distance: 0km to walk (1.2km to the beach) / approx. 85km by road. Take Bus #146 from Tallinn to Nõva (stop “Laimi”), from there you’ll have to walk or hitchhike.
Terrain: Asphalt, dirt road.
Views: City, countryside.
Natural areas: Nõva Landscape Protection Area.
Water situation: The Nõva visitor Centre has a water tap. The Allikjärve Campsite where I started the hike is located next to a lake, which can be used for cooking. Drinking requires filtering.
Food situation: Nõva has a small shop with a limited offer. It’s therefore best to bring your supplies from wherever you’re traveling from.
Free RMK Campsites: Allikajärve Campsite, which is a free RMK-campsite (called “lokkekoht” in Estonian). There is also a campsite at the beach, in Google called RMK Camping Peraküla. However, in the weekends it can be busy and rather loud here.
Accommodation: Nõva Hostel, Nõva Külalistemaja, Rannapera, Veskijõe Puhkemaja, Metskonna Forest House, Samblamaa Guesthouse Puhkemaja, Roosi Camping Houses, Ranniku Holiday House. All very expensive, as this coastal area is very popular among local tourists.
GPS: This is the GPS of hiking day 1, you can use it to navigate to the campsite and starting point, as Wikiloc will have a Google Maps popup to guide you to trail start if you happen to be too far away.

The blissful unknown. That was my current state of mind indeed. Sure, I was left a tad unsettled by RMK’s faulty advice, but I was full of energy and willpower to face whatever would come on my way. To a certain point, of course. Good on me, as the first challenge presented itself immediately. The incapability of Estonian tourism and outdoor authorities wasn’t limited to hiking advice: they also managed to give me incorrect information on bus connections, which resulted in me suddenly being thrown out in Haju-Risti instead of Nõva, 25km and about 5hrs of walking too early. Splendid! Luckily it’s a manageable challenge for me, someone who has been hitchhiking the planet for 9.5 years straight. An activity that immediately introduced me to the collective personality of the Estonian nation, which I would get to know more thoroughly during the 2 months I ended up staying in this country. A national identity of introversion, shyness and a strong sense of “minding your own business.” As such, I waited longer than I remember ever waiting anywhere with a decent traffic flow, until finally a couple of German holidaymakers picked me up. Geil.

As I got a ride straight to the campsite, I decided to skip on the EUR10 hiking passport, which is only available in the Nõva Visitor Centre (they didn’t even have it in Tallinn). This turned out to be the right choice. I was expecting it to be a document similar to the pilgrim passport you find on for example the Camino de Santiago, offering discounts and access to special low-cost accommodation… but I was in zero situations where this RMK-thing would have provided me any advantages. I sometimes noticed a code you could text to some phone number as a replacement for a stamp, which still doesn’t explain to me why you should carry the paper version around. Every gram counts on a long-distance-trail!

The Allikjärve Campsite turned out to be a scenic, yet not entirely desolated one. I arrived after a young couple had just set up camp, and they made sure I felt rather guilty about my mere presence. My bad, I had come on the popular Saturday night, which also turned out to be the national Night of Ancient Bonfires, celebrated on the last Saturday of August. Traditionally these coastal pyres served to show the seafarers a save route to shore. Nowadays, the tradition is kept alive to remind the nation of the importance of protecting the Baltic Sea. Couldn’t agree more, Estonia!

Day 1: Peraküla – Vihterpalu

Recorded distance: 27.8km (official distances: Allikajärve – Lepaaugu, 10.5km; Lepaaugu – Keibu I, 3km; Keibu I – Vihterpalu, 13km)
Terrain: Trail, asphalt, dirt road, beach.
Views: Forest, seashore.
Natural areas: Nõva Landscape Protection Area.
Water situation: Water at the starting point and end point, but it needs filtering before drinking. In the middle there’s only one dirty lake at Lepaaugu Campsite, which isn’t recommended, and the rest is salt sea water. There are some houses along the way, where you could ask for water.
Food situation: No options. (Only a small shop at Nõva, but this is a few km before the trail starts).
Well-marked? In the beginning there’s a mark at every change of direction. The last 1/3 it gets a bit sloppy, so GPS is recommended.
Free RMK Campsites: Lepaaugu Campsite (only dirty water), two different Keibu Campsites (no drinking water) and the Vihterpalu Campsite (next to river, sheltered picnic table, fireplace, dry toilet).
Accommodation: Meretuule Holiday Home, Puuna B&B Lodgings (with detour), Pedase Hotell Oü.
GPS: Check it out! I marked all water sources, shelters, supermarkets, picnic areas and campsites on the GPS for better planning and orientation.

I slept relatively well, even though I had to listen to the flirty couple giggling through the night (somehow people tend to forget that tent canvases are not walls – if I can’t see ya that doesn’t mean I can’t hear ya). The predicted thunderstorms decided to not pay me a visit, and I noticed how a cloudy sky slowly turned blue. I felt the incredible excitement that comes with starting such a long outdoor endeavour. We’re on, Peraküla-Aegviidu.Ahijarve, we’re bloody on!

To warmly welcome me on the trail I was presented with what could in retrospect be considered the best trail-day on this entire adventure. Did the PAA play its cards to quickly? It was the perfect harmony of swirling yet accessible forest trails, captivating coastline and endless vistas on the Baltic Sea. I passed through wildlife zones and birding areas, and let the sea breeze distract me from the painful feet and physical discomfort that accompanies the first few trail days (especially when wearing a 17kg camping pack). When noticing the trail heading land inwards, it suddenly hit me this would be my last chance to dive into the Baltic Sea… So I got utterly butt naked and plunged right in. For the very first time in my life! I had seen this sea before during my previous visits to Denmark, Sweden, Latvia and Lithuania… but those were always in autumn or winter time, for some inexplicable reason. I think I managed to stay in the water for 3 minutes, when I suddenly realised I was surrounded by an entire family of jellyfish. That must’ve been a funny-looking hysterical naked run.

Tired and satisfied I reached the Vihterpalu Campsite. First day, big fat check!

Day 2: Vihterpalu - Padise

Recorded distance: 25.9km (official distances: Vihterpalu – Padise, 26km).
Terrain: Trail, loose sand, lots of dirt road, as well as some dangerous stretches along a highway. Certain stretches of the trail have arm-pit high vegetation and have become close to invisible and are hardly accessible.
Views: Forest, village.
Water situation: Water at the starting point. Along the way you can buy water in Harju-Riste, or ask for a refill at the houses of this village. The next option is Padise’s river, but you have to collect it a few hundred meter before you reach the campsite. There are also shops and houses in Padise.
Food situation: There’s a small supermarket in Harju-Risti. Padise also has supermarkets.
Well-marked? Mostly, but some crucial splits weren't marked or they were even wrongly marked, so the use of GPS is necessary.
Free RMK Campsites: Padise Campsite. You can also continue to the Rummy Quarry, where you’ll find plenty of good wildcamp spots.
Accommodation: Padise Moisa Spaa Hotell, Kallsaste Talu Turismitalu & Holiday Resort.
GPS: Here! I marked all water sources, shelters, supermarkets, picnic areas and campsites on the GPS for better planning and orientation. One part recorded is a detour to avoid the inaccessible, armpit-high overgrown trail section, which was not doable in the pouring rain (this detour is marked).

I’m honestly impressed with how well Estonia caters to hikers. The RMK might be horrible at giving advice or maintaining the accessibility of its trails, they are absolute superstars when it comes to the provision of 100% free camping facilities. There are literally hundreds of them scattered out all over the country, almost all containing sheltered picnic tables, firepits with free firewood, dry toilets, water access and sometimes even a useful wooden tent shelter to keep dry. To facilitate your convenience even further, they listed all free campsite spots neatly in their app, so you can always check which one is closest to you. What a delight, high five Estonia!

Well… I tried to hold that positive feeling as long as I could. I woke up to pissing rain. I knew this trail moment would inevitably come, I just hoped it wouldn’t be so soon. When it comes to hiking or life: Rain ruins e-v-e-r-y-t-h-i-n-g.

When camping, I already have a never-ending morning ritual as is… there are just so many steps: Wake up – contact lenses in – pack sleeping bag – pack pillow – deinflate and pack mattress – gather all items in tent – get dressed – tend to beaten feet - put on shoes – get out of tent – take all loose items out and put aside (as tent needs to be packed first) – break down tent – hang up to dry if necessary – ah, toilet, finally – fetch water – get breakfast started – eat – clean dishes – brush teeth - freshen up – tent dry? – wait longer – stretching – packing – GO! Jesus H. Christ. As you can imagine, doing all this in the absolute pouring rain does not help in making it a pleasant process. Especially when you’re forced to pack your tent soaking wet.

I would be hiking through this absolute monsoon for the entire day, without a single second of relief. The trail at hand didn’t make it any better either, as when I wasn’t facing long boring stretches of dirt road, I had to fight my way through trails that were so overgrown they seemed to have vanished entirely. The few forest trails that were easy to follow were full of fallen trees, which are definitely no joy to climb when all wet and slippery.

I blasted through to Harju-Risti, where I was thrown out of the bus two days earlier. As there was absolutely zero shelter until now, I rushed to the church hoping to experience a few minutes of dryness. I had also read that the 13-14th century church contained Estonia’s oldest tower bell, as well as original limestone floors which are unique in the country, which made me interested to visit. Unfortunately, I wasn’t going to see any of it, as the doors were firmly closed and the adjoining restaurant was not open at their advertised hours. So I ate my lunch on the floor of the firewood shelter, marinating in absolute misery.

Could this torture of a day get any worse? Yes, but it didn’t. When I finally arrived in Padise, with soaking shoes and not a single fibre dry, I had to conclude I had no opportunity to dry my tent today as it simply never stopped raining. Trying to avoid the dreadful scenery of setting up an already-wet tent in the rainstorm and spending the night inside of it entirely cold and wet, I knocked on the door of the first house I saw. I noticed they had a shed, and was hopeful they would allow me to dry my tent. Not a problem! And while at it, why won’t I come inside for a warm dinner… and a bed?

Wow. This was the best not-even-imaginable scenario. The very moment the Estonians started to collectively steal my heart. Yes, they’re shy and won’t talk unless talked to. But hey, this keeps their social network nice and compact, which creates more space for you in their lives. if you approach them and make the first effort, you’re basically family.

Day 3: Padise - Keila

Recorded distance: 30.2km (official distances: Padise - Ohtu, 19.5km; Ohtu – Metsanurme, 26km).
Terrain: Trail, dirt road (mainly), asphalt.
Views: Forest, village, countryside.
Water situation: Water at the starting point in Padise. During the day you follow the Rummu Lake, which could be consumed when filtered. There’s also a shop in Vasalemma. A few km before the Ohtu Campsite, there are houses where you can ask for water, so you don’t have to carry it all the way from Vasalemma.
Food situation: Supermarket in Vasalemma, reached with a small detour from the trail.
Well-marked? Not really. I often walked, wrong as some splits didn't have a marking. The marking gets specifically spotty in the villages.
Free RMK Campsites: Ohtu Campsite, no water! On the GPS I also marked some suitable wildcamp spots along the Rummu Quarry Lake, which might be a scenic location to spend the night. You can stay here the night before as well, instead of in Padise, as it’s not far from there.
Accommodation: Paekalda Holiday Center, Central Park Residence Keila
GPS: Click right here. I marked all water sources, shelters, supermarkets, picnic areas and campsites on the GPS for better planning and orientation. The detour to the Vasalemma supermarket is included (and marked).

I woke up absolutely well-rested. I had shared the bedroom with the couple’s three children, but I was nevertheless so tired that I fell into an instant coma after what turned out to be an evening full of entertainment and laughter. The persistent language barrier was bridged with the tunes of an accordion, the communal language of music. Grateful I bade my spontaneous hosts goodbye and stepped into a sunny day, which felt well-deserved. I enjoyed the scenery of the tiny borough that is called Padise, centred around the 14th century Padis Monastery that took 200 years to build.

However, the highlight of today was going to be the Rummu Quarry, a half-natural half-manmade site marked by the mining practices of limestone and Vasalemma marble (a limestone type resembling marble). During Soviet times, this excavation was performed by the prisoners of the nearby Murru and Rummu Prisons, which in 2004 got merged with the Harku Women’s Prison and in 2012 closed permanently. When the continuous pumping of water discontinued, the quarry swiftly filled up with groundwater, forming a lake that drowned several of the utility buildings and machinery. Nowadays, it’s possible to explore this underwater historical sight by the means of scuba diving (something I wish I knew in advance!). Other activities to be enjoyed here include rafting, SUP-boarding, swimming, disc golfing and of course hiking. The latter you will enjoy for several hours on end today, as the trail stretches out along the entire south end of the lake, passing by many beaches, swimming spots and lookout points.

Enjoy this stretch as long as it lasts, as from there on you’ll have to endure an absolutely brain-numbing section to the next campsite. You could break up the monotony with a quick visit to the Vasalemma Manor, a knight’s manor which serves as one the most prominent examples of the Estonian Neo-Gothic Style. This boring section might be a good moment to figure out where you would like to spend the night… As the Ohtu Campsite is only 19.5km from the Padise one, which might be rather short… But the next one up, the Metsanurme Campsite, is an additional 26km, which is needless to say quite the endeavour. Personally, I decided to use the Ohtu picnic facilities for my dinner preparation, but then continued onwards to Keila, where I hoped to find a suitable wildcamp spot. I did not. As I was facing endless stretches of farmland and I noticed how it got darker and darker while my feet started protesting, I decided to just plunge down my tent quasi-illegally at the side of some farmland (obviously not on any crops), hidden behind a few bushes and the thick mist. Far from ideal, but at least I got a decent distance in.

Day 4: Keila - Metsanurme

Recorded distance: 23.4km (official distances: Ohtu – Metsanurme, 26km).
Terrain: Dirt road, asphalt road (a lot), nature trail. The nature trails are very inaccessible, and you’ll spend a significant amount of the day bushwacking. They in fact get so ridiculously overgrown at some point that I had to turn around and somehow try to find a way around it.
Views: Countryside, park, forest.
Water situation: Water tap at the museum in Keila. You pass a few access points to the river along the trail (marked on GPS), as well as houses where you could ask for water. Camping spot at the end is next to a river.
Food situation: Supermarkets in Keila, but you have to go off the trail for it.
Well-marked? No, today was marked remarkably bad. Many intersections or turn-offs have no indications at all.
Free RMK Campsites: Metsanurme Campsites (2x).
Accommodation: Sambliku Treehouse Koppelmaa, Home Sweet Home Saku, Loghouse Väike Tee Maja Saku, Hotel Getliin Saku (Saku is about 5km north of Metsanurme).
GPS: Here you go! I marked all water sources, shelters, supermarkets, picnic areas and campsites on the GPS for better planning and orientation.

My tent reached a level of dampness causing my eyes to be so puffy I could hardly open them. Some farm animal had woken me up numerous times with a type of screaming that resembled a donkey with a cow’s voice. My agricultural knowledge is too limited to know what taunted me. It turned out that it would have been a better choice to continue to Keila, where I found plenty of hidden wild camping spots in the pleasant park area the trail leads through. I was interested in visiting the Harju County Museum at the edge of town, but unfortunately it didn’t open for another two hours (11AM). That said, the water tap outside came as a welcome surprise, enabling us PAA-hikers to not have to make a detour into downtown Keila to get our hands on some water.

Today’s trail section was not my favorite. After the city you have to endure about 15km of dirt and asphalt road, which is pretty numbing for the mind. The opposite, which presented itself after this uninspiring section and 2 hours in the cow stables to shelter for the non-stop rainshowers, is not too great either: Once again the trail seemed to have been swallowed entirely by the forest, forcing you to aggressively bushwack your way through. I am truly appreciative of the natural trail parts and I love blending in with nature, but to a certain limit. If I have to walk the trail backwards to slam my way through the bush-bush, using my backpack as a shield, while being scratched open and whipped by the nettles and branches… I can easily conclude that I am not enjoying myself. And now I’m not even mentioning the speed in which every piece of clothing you own is drenched to the very last fibre, including your GoreTex shoes (they can only fight this incredible level of wetness up to a certain degree). Some parts were so ridiculously overgrown that you just face a thick wall of forest… there’s absolutely no way a human can get through. I had to walk back to somehow find a way around it. I felt like the fellow hiker I met in Tallinn must have been the last one to complete this trail, 8 years ago… since then, no maintenance seemed to have been done, allowing the forest to claim back what is hers.

After only 23.4km I was absolutely done. I was grumpy and soaked, and had a night ahead of me full of heavy thunderstorms that would make my tent tremble on its very foundations. I decided to set up camp at the Metsanurme facility, where a small shelter could hopefully offer some slight protection from what’s ahead. I tried to lift my spirits with a river-float, washing myself in what was later going to be my cooking water. The outdoor life.

Day 5: Metsanurme – Saarte Raba

Recorded distance: 26.6km (official distances: Metsanurme – Saarte Raba, 29km).
Terrain: Nature trail, dirt road, asphalt.
Views: Villages, forest, countryside.
Natural areas: Nabaha-Tuhala Nature Reserve.
Water situation: River at the start. Shop at Todva. Some streams (marked).
Food situation: Supermarket in Todva.
Well-marked? No. At some stretches they're overdoing it, then on crucial points there's nothing.
Free RMK Campsites: Saarte Raba Campsite. This site also contains a free hut.
Accommodation: Nothing.
GPS: Check it out. I marked all water sources, shelters, supermarkets, picnic areas and campsites on the GPS for better planning and orientation.

As you can see, the speed and moving time are far from being correct.

The rainstorm was so intense, that the tent shelter hardly made any difference. The main issue is that on days like this, there is no sun nor wind to dry your tent in the morning or later in the day… and if there finally is, you end up wasting valuable dry-time waiting around, instead of killing kilometres. You can’t get a win with this weather.

Luckily, my host-family had given me some newspaper to semi-dry my shoes with at night, and I had acquired a strip of trash bags to wrap around my feet and legs, as the last thing you want is start the day with wet feet. They never last too long, but with these kind of horrendous conditions they proofed to be more effective than pricy rain covers.

Even though the weather was once again sheite, I tried to gain some enthusiasm for the Nabala-Tuhala Nature Reserve I’d be crossing today. Unfortunately, it was nothing to be excited about. Of course, the environment is beautiful, absolutely zero criticism about that… but as a hiker (not a survivalist or special forces soldier) you need to be able to actually get from A to B. And that’s where it gets tricky! The entire day, I just felt like I was at war with the forest. It had taken the Peraküla-Aegviidu-Ahijarve hostage and if you wanted to get to it, you’d better take a machete. I consider myself to be quite the weathered hiker, I had faced more serious conditions than flat and mild Estonia… Yet, I felt like I was not participating in the activity of hiking anymore, this was downright Bear-Grylls-kinda-stuff.

What didn’t help is that I got introduced to the lipoptena cervi, the Baltic Deer Fly… or, excrescence of Satan, if you will. I had never heard of this downright horrendous insect, and my life would have been better if it stayed that way. So what’s the deal with them? Somehow, they rise up out of the vortex of hell and then search for a host, as they’re dirty little parasites that have no right of existence on their own. That host should be a deer or elk, but as these flies are mildly retarded they will also land on humans, whom's blood they can’t even process. Once they settle on your skin or clothing they hold on for dear life (you can’t just slap them off) and drop their wings, and subsequently start walking into your hair line, where they’ll suck themselves into your scalp. During the epidemic of these winged cunts that I had to endure, with tens at a time. Okay… take a second to imagine how that feels… insects crawling through your hair and nestling themselves into your flesh, while your whole body is covered in loose wings. That’s right, you become close to suicidal.

As such, after yet another day of horror, I needed a win. And I got it in the form of the Saarte Raba Hut. I had read about the existence of a shelter at this location and I was more or less expecting the rundown rickety-rackety structures I’d encountered before… still something I’m very grateful about in these wet conditions, of course! But what I got was better than I could have ever imagined. It was basically a modern apartment without furniture. There even were some washing lines to dry your clothing! A true trail luxury, I felt like a little campsite princess arriving at her forest palace and I was downright extactic. Cooking I had to do outside among the deer flies, as the second I opened my tupperware I heard the mice crawling… you need to wake up only once with mice crawling over your face (unfortunately not kidding) to have that sound forever carved into your brain. But what was ahead was a peaceful night full of rest and zen, if only for a short moment.

I needed this. This is why I came to walk this Estonian trail: peace and quiet. Not to be in a constant state of distress, which currently has been the case. This night boosted my spirits for at least one more day of hiking…

Day 6: Saarte Raba – Alavere Bog

Recorded distance: 34.2km (official distances: Saarte Raba – Saula, 10km; Saula – Alavere, 22.5km).
Terrain: Dirt road, asphalt, nature trail and complete wilderness.
Views: Villages, forest, countryside.
Water situation: A few small streams along the trail. The Saula Campsite is close to the Pirita River. Then shops / restaurants in Viikingite Küla (some kind of amusement park) and a shop in Kose-Uuemoisa.
Food situation: Restaurant in Viikingite Küla. Shop in Kose-Uuemoisa.
Well-marked? No. As usual, some stretches are marked, some are not at all.
Free RMK Campsites: Saula Campsite and Alavare Campsite (I couldn’t reach it today). Both don’t have water.
Accommodation: Oxcafe Hostel Kose-Uuemõisa. Oxforell Recreation Center Kose-Uuemõisa. Voose Päikesekodu (after Alavere).
GPS: Have a look! In some cases I needed to follow the bicycle trail, as the RMK had reported certain trail stretches to be inaccessible (“The hiking trail at Pikavere-Viskla Road is muddy and difficult to pass, as well the section between Piissoo and Sõmeru”). That said, lots of today’s trail is also inaccessible, marked as such or not.

I really didn’t want to leave the hut. It was raining once again, and I was just too comfy and toasty. I wasn’t mentally ready to face the harsh trail reality.

Today the GPS was going to circumvent certain areas that the RMK marked as “muddy and difficult to pass.” So what the hell was I doing the last days then, I wondered, was that supposed to be easy-breezy and accessible? Anyway, it did not take a lot of effort to convince me. If I can have a bloody break from all the bushwacking, I take that opportunity with both hands. Unfortunately, I couldn’t have a break, as some areas simply cannot be avoided: there’s no other path and you have to just suck it up. This stretch of the Peraküla-Aegviidu-Ahijarve just keeps handing out punches, and it was just a matter of being able to take them or finally collapse under the pressure.

The intensity turned down a notch when I reached the area of the Viking Village, some gimmicky amusement-park kind of establishment. I quickly peeked in, but did not have the patience to deal with screaming children right now. So I popped into a restaurant, to consume a meal while being stared at like the circus attraction I was. I must indeed have looked pretty wild at this point, after being flogged down by the forest for days in a row. Yet, I was endlessly grateful to receive a little treat in the shape of sunshine, which had been a unique occurrence on this trail. Somehow though, the rain keeps biting you in the ass even if it disappeared… puddles had formed that were knee deep by now, and without a way to get around it you have to go through it barefoot, unsure of what you’re exposing your open blisters to. I could feel the tape-like parasite worms moving under my bare skin. Not a great sensation, I must say.

The dirt road bent off into the woods again… into the bog, which is the Estonian swamp, the local wetlands. An impressive environment, when experienced from a boardwalk. It’s less pleasant when you’re standing right in it. It’s not like you have a choice though: The trail entirely vanishes again and the GPS keeps sending you straight into the absolute wilderness. I just couldn’t believe it. I kept checking and re-checking the coordinates, as this couldn’t be right. I looked up from my phone and stared straight into a thick wall of impenetrable jungle. How was I supposed to get through this, what the hell does the PAA want from me? What was supposed to be an hour of hiking took me three hours, and still I wasn’t where I was meant to be. Three hours of beating my unlucky body through the marshland, clattering over fallen trees and slipping passed bear claw imprints. Three hours of experiencing a downright apocalypse of the parasite-flies, literally with 20-30 at a time crawling over my scalp and into my eyelids. I was wearing a headscarf, tucked into my fleece to unsuccessfully try to keep them out… over that a poncho, as the hibernation soaked me to the bone and the thorns ripped my pants… but it was also 20 degrees, so I was sweating like a pig. I just had no way of protecting myself from this forest. I was under constant attack by both the flora and fauna and I couldn’t get through.

Day 7: Alavere Bog – Aegviidu area

I didn’t sleep. Insects were marching over my skull all night and a torrential rain slammed on my tent all night through. Everything was wet.

I packed my tent in the pouring rain, while everything I owned drowned in the rainstorm. I skipped breakfast, as there was no shelter where I could sit down to prepare or consume it, without it drenching in my hands while holding it.

I just wanted out.

I had nothing to proof to anyone, I wasn’t tied to this trail or obliged to finish it. Still, I felt my tears mixing with the rain while trying to escape this environment. It was a major disappointment, yes. My expectations were high and they weren’t met, not even close. That’s just life in its brutal honesty sometimes. Simultaneously, I also knew this was not the end, this was just a comma… I just needed to brush myself off and make a Plan B. But first, I needed to rely on the only person who can save me and get me back on my feet: me. Only me can get me out of here.

Quick Budget Fact Overview

Estonia Facts

Capital: Tallinn
Language: Estonian
Population: ± 1.3 mln
Sq km: ± 45,339
Currency: Euro (€ - EUR)
Electricity Outlet: C + F / 230 V / 50 Hz. Check here.
Country Code Phone: +372
Emergency Phone: 112
Visa: Schengen visa (Estonia is part of the EU). Easy visa application here.
Vaccinations: None, although it’s recommended to get vaccinated against tick-borne encephalitis and Lyme disease if you plan to spend a lot of time in the forests, as this is rather common in the Baltics (I personally caught Lyme disease in Estonia but detected it early, so I could get it treated with antibiotics)
Climate: Cold Winter Humid Continental Climate (Dfb)
High season: July-August

Short History Recap

11000-9000BC: End Glacial Era → Pulli settlement, on the banks of the Pärnu River. 6500BC: Kunda culture establishes fishing and hunting communities in north. 5300-1750BC: Narva culture → mainly fishers, hunters & gatherers. 500BC: Iron works start. 100: Roman senator Tacitus uses the name Estonia for the 1st time to describe region. 100-600: Coastal settlements. Wind worshipping religion. 750: Battle of Bråvalla → Estonians & Swedes battle against Danes. 790: Viking Era (most Estonian Vikings are Oeselians). 1206: Start Danish Era → in response to frequent raids by Oeselian Vikings, the Danes strike back → King Valdemar II conquers Saaremaa & expands on Estonian territory. ’08: Baltic Crusades by Germans, converting Estonia to Christianity. ’20: Control divided between Danes in the north & (Germanic) Livonian Brothers of the Sword in south. 1343: St. George’s Night Uprising → unsuccessful attempt to overthrow Danes. ’46: Estonia (and Latvia) sold to German Teutonic Order, defeated in 1410. 1410-1558: Livionian Wars over territory. Local population declines to 120,000. 1558: Swedish protection. Estonian land privatised, Baltic Germans arrive. 1700: Battle of Narva on Estonian ground between Sweden & Russia. ’10: Sweden’s defeat → Estonia incorporated into Russian Empire. 1850: Estonian Age of Awakening = nationalist movement. ’90: Russification policy, only strengthens nationalism. 1918: Independence from Russia. ’20: Peace treaty with Russia. ’34: Prime Minister Pats’ bloodless coup establishes authoritarian rule. ’38: Pats president. ’39: Soviet Union (SU) military bases in Estonia. ’40: SU troops arrive. Estonia incorporated into SU (Estonia was neutral in WWII, but SU is not). ’41: German Nazi troops invade. ’44: Estonia reannexed by SU when German forces retreat. 10,000s Estonians deported to Siberia and Central Asia. ‘60s: Some deported Estonians allowed to return. ’88: Democratic vibes. ’87-’91: Singing Revolution in all Baltic states: demonstrations of spontaneous singing of banned hymns and songs. ’91: Communist rule collapses. Soviet government recognizes independence of the Baltic Republics. ’94: Partnership for Peace → limited military cooperation with Nato. ’97: EU negotiations. ’98: Changes in citizen laws to encourage Russian-speaking minority to become Estonian. 2002: EU invites Estonia. Overwhelming referendum votes in favor of joining. ’04: Nato. Officially joins EU. ’05: Estonia & Russia sign treaty delineating border. Russia withdraws in response to dispute over treatment of Soviet past. ’07: Law prohibiting display of monuments glorifying Soviet rule. ’11: Euro as currency. ’14: Estonia & Russia sign a new treaty ending border dispute. Nato presence rises in Baltics. ’21: Kaja Kallas 1st female prime minister. ’22: Estonia gives military and political support to Ukraine after Russian invasion.

Camino Packing List

(Cursive items are only necessary when you decide to camp, like I did):

Hiking boots
Flip-flops to air the feet at night, and for hygienic reasons when showering
Socks: 3 pairs
Underwear: at least 3 pairs, depending on own levels of hygiene. Sports bra for ladies.
Pants: 2 pairs, preferably covering the top of the shoes to prevent rocks from getting in.
Quick-dry tanktops or t-shirts: 3 pieces, depending on own levels of hygiene.
Fleece layer
Lightweight padded jacket
Hat or cap
Swimming suit
Poncho or rain suit
Rain covers for legs and shoes. The Baltics are incredibly damp, so also without rain you’re likely to get soaked in the morning when walking through overgrown nature trails.
Gloves
Scarf, can be used to cover throat, the head or for picnicking and cleaning.
Microfibre towel
Emergency blanket
Hiking poles
Sunglasses
Reflectors
Headlamp
Phone & chargers (make sure you download the GPS tracks for offline use)
Headphones (I take 2 pairs)
Local simcard: Telia has the best coverage (scroll down for more info on simcards)
Powerbank (when camping: 2 powerbanks or a sun-energy powered one)
E-reader & charger, optional
Pen and paper
Toiletries: Toothbrush, toothpaste, wet wipes, ear buds, lip balm, deodorant, soap, shampoo bar. Optional: hair brush, hair ties, tampons, little mirror, contact lenses and/or glasses, razor.
Sunscreen
Mosquito repellent
Ear plugs and sleeping mask, optional
First aid kit: bandaids, bandages, betadine, aspirin, anti-diarrhoea pills, other needed medication… and very important: a tick pen, there are plenty of those here and they need to be removed asap as Lyme disease and encephalitis are common here.
Feet care kit: Tape, Vaseline, blister bandaids, foot patches, talc powder.
Disinfectant gel
Electrolytes for fast hydration
Camel bag and/or water bottle (when camping: with the potential to hold at least 3 litres).
Lifestraw or water filter
Tent
Sleeping bag
Sleeping mat
Ziploc bags
Pocket knife
Food for up to 2 days. On the Camino you’ll find a shop almost every day, depending on how fast you walk. You burn more energy than on a regular days, so bring more food than you usually eat.
Camping gas, cooking kit, fire (both a lighter and matches)
Titanium pan, cutlery, potentially a plastic plate and cup.
Rope, strong bag & tupperware for strong-smelling food. Repeat after me: Never EVER leave food inside of your tent… if not for bears, then for rats who can eat their way through your tent to reach it. Believe me, I am talking out of experience, I once in Patagonia woke up from rats walking over my face... Always cook far away from your tent and hang the food up in a tree by attaching a stone to a rope and throwing it over a high branch to lift the bag up.
Pepper spray
Passport
Cash money and 2 different credit cards

Budget Bites

Main Supermarket Chains Estonia: Coop, Maxima, Selver, Rimi, Prisma, Grossi and Lidl. Maxima, Grossi and Lidl are the more budget-sensitive ones. On the Estonian Camino you will run into a supermarket almost every day, with a max. of 2 days in between them. As such, you won’t have to carry much weight in food. Sometimes it will be a local over-the-counter-shop with limited choice, but it’s better than nothing.
Local Dishes: Kartulisalat (potato salad), Rosolje (beetroot salad with herring and pickles), Mulgikapsad (pork-cabbage dish), Rämm (herring), Mulgipuder (meat porridge), Kama (porridge), Kiluvõileib (meatball soup), Hernesupp (pea soup), Leivasupp (sweet soup with apples and whipped cream), Verivorst (blood sausage), Sült (head cheese), Rukkileib (rye bread), Kiluvõileib (rye bread sandwich with fish), Pirukas (stuffed dough pastry), Kringel (sweet or savoury pastry), Kohupiimakreem (curd cheese dessert), Vastlakukkel (cardamom bread roll), Kohuke (cold dairy curd snack), Mannavaht (semolina cream), Kompott (compote), Kirju Koer / Kass Artur / Küpsisetort (cookie cakes).
The Veg Situation: Going veg is not so complicated in Estonia, as vegetarianism and veganism is widely accepted. Most supermarkets contain veg products, be it very processed at times. Veg restaurants can be found here. That said, these are concentrated in the bigger cities, you won’t pass many of them hiking. Local vegetarian dishes: Leivasupp, Rukkileib, Kohupiimakreem , Vastlakukkel, Kohuke, Mannavah, Kompott, Kirju Koer / Kass Artur / Küpsisetort. Local vegan dishes: Porgandi-Oakotletid (carrot and bean fritters), Nogese Kartuli Kotetid (potato fritters), Hapukapsa-Peedisalat (sauerkraut and beetroot salad), Seenesupp (wild mushrooms soup), Lillkapsa Ja Läätsesupp Seentega (cauliflower, lentil and mushroom soup), Porgandi Ja Kruubivorm (barley and carrot pudding).

National Drink: Vana Tallinn (liquor) and Vodka, Kali (alcohol-free fermented drink), Beer, Sweet Fruit Wines.
Hiking food: You want to go high-energy and low-weight. For breakfast I swear by oatmeal, which I make with milk in powder-form. I usually add nuts, seeds or any fruits I can find along the trail. This gives me energy for hours and it’s easy to carry. For lunch I generally make simple sandwiches, which are very filling with the Baltic rye bread. Dinner has to fit in one pot, so I generally make pasta, rice or fastest of all: couscous. I carry low-weight vegetables like mushrooms or salad and generally cut some dried sausage on top. For flavor I carry basic spices (as well as loooots of chili) and sauces in powder form… liquids are too heavy! For snacks I focus on nuts, dried fruits, muesli bars and berries I find along the trail.

→ A great solution for tasty trail meals offering a bit of variation are freeze-dried foods. The technique of freeze-drying refers to a low-temp dehydration process, which preserves the food’s original healthy nutrients. The great advantage for us hikers is the low weight of these products… a more-than-enough portion weighs as little as 100-140 grams! The local Estonian company Hiking Baltic North offers an impressively big collection of freeze-dried meals, varying from paella to Indian curries to mashed potatoes. They even provide the service of sending them directly to you on the trail, via the Omniva post boxes that can be found all over the Baltics next to almost every supermarket. Like this, you can restock easily and you won’t have to carry too much weight.

Conveniently, this company also provides all type of outdoor equipment as well as rentals that can be sent directly to you on the trail.

Sleep Cheap

Hostels / Hotels / Guesthouses: Of all Baltic countries, Estonia is the most expensive one. Expect Western European prices for food and accommodation. However, you are walking the Camino, and that comes with certain perks: On every section affordable accommodation is made available to pilgrims, usually in the pastor houses of churches. I listed the options in the articles per hiking section. Most are donation-based, but a tip of minimum EUR 10 is expected. Unlike Spain, France and Portugal, you will most likely be the only pilgrim visiting, so a prior reservation is necessary to guarantee someone can open the door for you. Emails are generally not replied to, and English is not widely spoken outside of the bigger cities (most people just hung up on me if I called in English). Therefore, it’s useful to make some Estonian contacts in advance to make the phone calls on your behalf.
Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost (unless you put a third-world country as homebase), but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate review explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored). The Couchsurfing community in Estonia is rather big and active, and many of the hosts live on or close to the Estonian Camino. In the Estonian section, I Couchsurfed on 5 occasions (and another 3 times at a later stage outside of the Camino route). I also used Warm Showers, which is in principal a bikepacking community focussing on 1-night stays. That said, long-distance hikers fit well with these type of travellers and are warmly welcomed.
Wild Camping: is entirely legal in Estonia, with the exception of private land. You can literally spend the night anywhere you want, as long as you don’t leave a mess and treat nature with respect. Estonia really goes above and beyond, as their local nature conservation institution, the RMK, provides a great number of free campsites, easily traceable via their app. Most contain sheltered picnic tables, a fireplace with free fire wood, a dry toilet, water access and sometimes even a tent shelter for rainy weather. Truly phenomenal!

Useful Estonian Trail Words (at least, they were to me)

Greetings

Tere = Hello
Tere hommikust = Good morning
Tere päevast = Good afternoon
Tere õhtust = Good evening
Head ööd= Good night, sleep well
Päeval = Day
Hüvasti = Farewell
Head aega = See you
Lähme = Let’s go
Aitäh = Thank you
Vabandust = Sorry
Ma ei räägi eesti keelt = I don’t speak Estonian
Olen… (hollandlane) = I am… (Dutch)
Minu nimi on… = My name is….

Hiking

Matkamine = Hiking
Telk / Telkimine = Tent / Camping
Seiklus = Adventure
Vihma = Rain
Päike = Sun
Kiire = Fast
Väsinud = Tired
Eravaldus = Private land

Food & Drinks

Piim = Milk
Kohvi = Coffee
Vein = Wine
Veepudel = Waterbottle (vesi = water)
Janu = Thirst
Näljane = Hunger
Head isu = Enjoy your meal
Poodi = Shop

Traveling

Autoga peale võtmine / Hääletamine = Hitchhiking
Hotel / hostel = hotel / hostel (yihaa, an easy one)
Reisija = Traveler
Reis = Trip
Muusika = Music

Mama Said

Safety: Estonia is a very safe country. Besides bears there aren’t any dangerous animals, and even the bears are unlikely to interact with humans. Similar to the Estonians themselves: they really keep to themselves and won’t talk to you unless you talk to them. No one will bother you.
Tap Water: is safe to drink. Estonians also love their natural water sources for water provision, but you’ll generally need a local to point those out to you as they’re not clearly signposted. I drank straight from the streams in the forest without any issues, but I used a lifestraw/filter for the water from the bigger rivers or when close to a town or farmland. However, when cooking a filter wasn’t needed, as the act of boiling already kills the bacteria.
The best credit/debit card for traveling is Wise, as they use the live conversion rates with minimal exchange fees. Wise also has the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. Revolut is comparable, but they have higher exchange fees in the weekend and less wallet-options. Also, you can only wire money to Revolut in the currency you opened the account with, whereas Wise has IBAN’s from a wide variety of currencies, so you don’t have to pay a double exchange fee. Most Estonian ATMs charge a fee for cash outs, but card payments are generally accepted everywhere, even in the countryside.
Simcard: Buying a local simcard is by all means cheaper than using your international roaming option. The main providers are Telia, Tele2 and Elisa. Telia has the biggest network coverage and the fastest connection, which makes it most attractive for a hike in the countryside. You can cheaply buy their simcard, confusingly called ‘Super’, in any gas station or supermarket and then download the app to top it up. As usual, never buy a sim at the airport, where you’ll be ripped off with expensive tourist packages. Tip: instead of paying straight away for a calling or data package, first top up via the app and then pay with that money. Like this, you get free bonus data and minutes, while still having the full amount of money available for payments. In order to use your sim outside of Estonia, you must not only allow roaming on your phone, but also in the app (very odd and unusual, I didn’t know this and got stuck in the Latvian forest without reception… and all my Estonian data had already expired once I found out). Elisa has the cheapest deals, but a rather bad reputation. Tele2 is decent, but their connection is not as fast and widespread as Telia’s.

Transport

Walking: This is the main purpose of this journey, of course. On the PAA, expect a combination of nature trails, dirt roads and asphalt roads... definitely not all easily accessible.
Cycling: The PAA is also advertised as being a cycle route... but honestly, I wouldn't recommend. There were sections I have to slam myself through walking, I can't imagine trying to get a bicycle through there.
Public Transport: Tallinn has a combination of city buses, trolleybuses and trams. However, outside of the capital you can only find buses to get around in town. You can either buy a Ridango card from the bus driver and charge it at the bus stations or pay the bus driver in cash. In most buses, you can’t pay by card. During 2 months in Estonia, I have never been checked though.
Taxi / Uber: Estonia has taxi apps such as Uber and Bolt. However, the cheaper local app is called Forus.
Intercity Buses: are very frequent in the bigger cities, but generally only go once or a few times a day in the countryside. Therefore, prior planning is key. Google Maps is unreliable for bus times, as it’s not always up-to-date. Instead, use the local Tpilet app. You can buy tickets on this app as well, or pay in cash or with the Ridango card. Card payments are usually not accepted! Golden budget tip: In the south of the country, if on the Tpilet app it says “no bus tickets available” this generally means the ride is FREE with the Ridango card (which you can buy for EUR 2 from the bus driver). That’s right! I have of course tested this theory, and with one exception, this was indeed true. It includes lines connecting from and to Tartu.
Train: Estonia’s train network connects certain parts of the country in a rather efficient and budget-friendly manner. The operating company is called Elron, and buying tickets online gives you a 15% discount. Alternatively, you can buy tickets at the train station or in the train itself (they check 100% of the times).
Car Rental: This is not a cheap endeavour in Estonia. However, the best deals can generally be found when the car is picked up from the airport.
Airport: Tallinn Airport (TLL). If you’re on a budget, Riga Airport in Latvia generally has much cheaper connections. Affordable buses connect Riga with Tallinn in just a few hours.
Hitchhiking: is relatively safe in Estonia, but definitively not common. The shy and introverted nature of the Estonians makes them a bit less likely to invite a stranger into their car, so waiting times might be slightly longer compared to other countries. That said, I hitchhiked on plenty occasions in Estonia and I always managed with relative ease (as a woman alone).

Next?

International Destinations Close By: Russia, Latvia, Finland, Belarus.

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