San Marino
If San Marino was yet another Italian city, chances are present I would have overseen it. Yet, its status as being an actual separate mini-country made it a noteworthy destination. My most prominent life goal is to slowly but surely check off all countries in the world, as thorough as unlimited travel time allows me… and San Marino was just there on the map taunting me, like a big fat middle finger among countries I had seen a zillion times. Unable to resist any further temptation, I travelled all the way down from Switzerland just to finally knock that bastard out. Well, I must say, my decision-making is on point at times, if I may pat myself on the shoulder. San Marino, what a place! Who would have thought those mere 61,2 km² could overwhelm to such a degree, outshining the entire region?
Best thing of it all? You can explore the entire country on foot. Traveling and hiking, the two most beautiful things in life combined, against a staggering backdrop of a surprisingly lush and heavenly landscape that forms this tiny republic. Entirely free of charge, as is fitting for a proper Budget Bucket List’er. San Marino afoot, are you ready?
Best thing of it all? You can explore the entire country on foot. Traveling and hiking, the two most beautiful things in life combined, against a staggering backdrop of a surprisingly lush and heavenly landscape that forms this tiny republic. Entirely free of charge, as is fitting for a proper Budget Bucket List’er. San Marino afoot, are you ready?
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San Marino on Foot
Important to know is that even though you will find many different San Marino trails and routes on hiking apps and websites, they all sprout from 2 clearly marked key routes: The blue one and the red one. The Blue Trail is named the Cammino del Titano, forming a 43km loop winding around the UNESCO World Heritage Site Mount Titano, which has the old capital of San Marino plunged right on top of it. Trained hikers among us can cover it in a (long and exhausting) day, but the more reasonable option is splitting it in two, as a 1700m incline is included in the equation. Luckily, with legal wild camping and even free provided camping spots along the way, this is an attractive option. The other key route, The Red Trail or the Cammino di San Francesco is less than half the length. Its 20km kicks off at the San Francesco church at the main entrance of San Marino’s historical center, and ends in San Leo, Italy. Expect a diverse journey including countryside trails and cliff paths.
Important to know is that even though you will find many different San Marino trails and routes on hiking apps and websites, they all sprout from 2 clearly marked key routes: The blue one and the red one. The Blue Trail is named the Cammino del Titano, forming a 43km loop winding around the UNESCO World Heritage Site Mount Titano, which has the old capital of San Marino plunged right on top of it. Trained hikers among us can cover it in a (long and exhausting) day, but the more reasonable option is splitting it in two, as a 1700m incline is included in the equation. Luckily, with legal wild camping and even free provided camping spots along the way, this is an attractive option. The other key route, The Red Trail or the Cammino di San Francesco is less than half the length. Its 20km kicks off at the San Francesco church at the main entrance of San Marino’s historical center, and ends in San Leo, Italy. Expect a diverse journey including countryside trails and cliff paths.
Besides San Marino’s head trails, there are several side trails you can connect to or complete as separate units:
Maps of the side-trails can be found here.
Mixing and matching is all the more fun. Considering the time at hand, I ended up completing this varied loop. It allowed me to see both the UNESCO Old Town and Mount Titano, as well as the less-visited countryside area which truly adds that extra layer to San Marino’s charm. The distance is rather reasonable (only 16km), but the elevation gain (865m) adds a tad of extra difficulty… nothing too crazy though, you’ve got this:
- Sentiero della Rupe del Monte Titano: 4km / 210m elevation gain.
- I Mulini e La Forra di Canepa: 4km / 220m elevation gain.
- I Gessi di Montegiardino: 3km / 120m elevation gain.
- Parco Ausa, Lajala e l’Antica Ferrovia: 7.3km / 260m elevation gain.
- Gorgascura, Pietraminuta e I Gessi di Acquaviva: 5.6km / 180m elevation gain.
- Il Castellaccio di Fiorentino: 4km / 200m elevation gain.
- Il Parco di Monte Cerreto: 2km / 70m elevation gain.
- Il Calanco di Ca’Rigo: 4.7km / 250m elevation gain.
- Sentiero de la Genga: 2.5km / 100m elevation gain. White-orange trail marks.
Maps of the side-trails can be found here.
Mixing and matching is all the more fun. Considering the time at hand, I ended up completing this varied loop. It allowed me to see both the UNESCO Old Town and Mount Titano, as well as the less-visited countryside area which truly adds that extra layer to San Marino’s charm. The distance is rather reasonable (only 16km), but the elevation gain (865m) adds a tad of extra difficulty… nothing too crazy though, you’ve got this:
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Thirsty? Why not visit some wineries such as Cantina di San Marino or Consorzio Vini Tipici di San Marino along the way for a refreshing tasting. Just like in Italy, San Marino has the perfect conditions for a thriving wine production. I was lucky enough to Couchsurf right at a vineyard… I sometimes feel like life has a plan for me.
Not-To-Be-Missed Sights Along The Way
The already-mentioned UNESCO-crowned Old Town on Mount Titano provide the context of your go-to San Marino sightseeing itinerary. Pleasant city wanderings will lead you to Passo delle Streghe and the Piazza della Libertà, revealing sights such as the Palazzo Pubblico, the seat of San Marino’s main governmental bodies, and the Monumento a Giuseppe Garibaldi. The latter represents an homage to the Italian revolutionary and one of the ‘fathers of the fatherland’, who at some point in the local history timeline was lend refuge by San Marino. Other sights include the three towered peaks overlooking the city (Montale, Guaita and Cesta), as well as the Porta San Francesco and Basilica del Santo Marino, the city’s main churches.
Saint Marinus, the obvious name giver of the country, was a Dalmatian stonemason who took refuge in this area after being prosecuted for his Christianity, dedicating the lion share of his time to prayer and announcing the gospel. The exact spot where he did that, the cave or ‘Sacellum’ of Saint Marinus, can be visited just outside of the city… just like in the good (?) old days when pilgrims climbed up to his lil’ cavern to hear God’s assumed words. The Christian community he gathered around him was a forebearer of what grew out to be the Republic of San Marino. He baptised the pre-Sammarinese people at Acquaviva.
Not-To-Be-Missed Sights Along The Way
The already-mentioned UNESCO-crowned Old Town on Mount Titano provide the context of your go-to San Marino sightseeing itinerary. Pleasant city wanderings will lead you to Passo delle Streghe and the Piazza della Libertà, revealing sights such as the Palazzo Pubblico, the seat of San Marino’s main governmental bodies, and the Monumento a Giuseppe Garibaldi. The latter represents an homage to the Italian revolutionary and one of the ‘fathers of the fatherland’, who at some point in the local history timeline was lend refuge by San Marino. Other sights include the three towered peaks overlooking the city (Montale, Guaita and Cesta), as well as the Porta San Francesco and Basilica del Santo Marino, the city’s main churches.
Saint Marinus, the obvious name giver of the country, was a Dalmatian stonemason who took refuge in this area after being prosecuted for his Christianity, dedicating the lion share of his time to prayer and announcing the gospel. The exact spot where he did that, the cave or ‘Sacellum’ of Saint Marinus, can be visited just outside of the city… just like in the good (?) old days when pilgrims climbed up to his lil’ cavern to hear God’s assumed words. The Christian community he gathered around him was a forebearer of what grew out to be the Republic of San Marino. He baptised the pre-Sammarinese people at Acquaviva.
The Forget the Stories Park is a more recent attraction added to the mix, offering a public art-nouveau sculpture garden. With a small budget to spend, a variety of museums become part of the options. A cheap multi-museum ticket grants a visit to the First Tower, Second Tower, St. Francis Museum, State Museum and National Gallery of Modern and Contemporary Art, as well as the Palazzo Pubblico. With a free-of-charge Tutto San Marino Card, to be acquired at local hotels, the ticket is even cheaper. Other museums to be considered include Museo di Stato, Museo della Tortura, Museo della Curiosità, Museo delle Armi Moderne, Titanus Museum, Il Mondo di Leonardo, Museo dell’Emigrante, Museo Pinacoteca San Francesco, Maranello Rosso Musei and the Museo del Francobollo e della Moneta. Yeah… I don’t think one day in San Marino will do the trick (I stayed 3 nights).
Day Trips
Rimini
Unless you arrive with your own vehicle, a Rimini pass-through is pretty much unavoidable. If I must be entirely honest with you, my first impression was one of… disappointment. However thoroughly I enjoyed the warm welcome of my local host Fabio, complete with aperitivo and bubbles, the beach strip this city is so famous for reflects a sad glimpse of forlorn glory. It could have been my timing off-season, but I don’t believe the quirky collection of 50’s-fashion hotels and endless series of solely privatized beach plots disappearing into the horizon is ever an appealing sight. That said, once you make the effort to visit Rimini’s Old Town, you’ll be faintly transported back to that Italian authentic charm. It’s not the most memorable city centre you’ll see on your Italy trip, but sights like the Arco d'Augusto, the Piazza Tre Martiri and the Bridge of Tiberius are nevertheless pleasing to the eye.
Day Trips
Rimini
Unless you arrive with your own vehicle, a Rimini pass-through is pretty much unavoidable. If I must be entirely honest with you, my first impression was one of… disappointment. However thoroughly I enjoyed the warm welcome of my local host Fabio, complete with aperitivo and bubbles, the beach strip this city is so famous for reflects a sad glimpse of forlorn glory. It could have been my timing off-season, but I don’t believe the quirky collection of 50’s-fashion hotels and endless series of solely privatized beach plots disappearing into the horizon is ever an appealing sight. That said, once you make the effort to visit Rimini’s Old Town, you’ll be faintly transported back to that Italian authentic charm. It’s not the most memorable city centre you’ll see on your Italy trip, but sights like the Arco d'Augusto, the Piazza Tre Martiri and the Bridge of Tiberius are nevertheless pleasing to the eye.
Santarcangelo di Romagna
A less obvious - and for me therefore all the more attractive - destination is Santarcangelo di Romagna. A name so dramatic you almost automatically make the heated Italian hand gestures while pronouncing it. That said, the town itself couldn’t be more laidback. With only a few random sights at hand, it is in fact the froing and toing of daily life unfolding itself forming the main draw to an unsuspecting traveler. My luck brought me there during the Friday morning farmer’s market, representing a perfect chaos of Italian chants and the freshest of foods right from the source. With a hump of absolutely perfect Italian cheese in one hand, and a bag of alici fritte in the other, life didn’t seem to get much better than this, if only for a moment.
A less obvious - and for me therefore all the more attractive - destination is Santarcangelo di Romagna. A name so dramatic you almost automatically make the heated Italian hand gestures while pronouncing it. That said, the town itself couldn’t be more laidback. With only a few random sights at hand, it is in fact the froing and toing of daily life unfolding itself forming the main draw to an unsuspecting traveler. My luck brought me there during the Friday morning farmer’s market, representing a perfect chaos of Italian chants and the freshest of foods right from the source. With a hump of absolutely perfect Italian cheese in one hand, and a bag of alici fritte in the other, life didn’t seem to get much better than this, if only for a moment.
Quick Budget Fact Overview
San Marino Facts
Short History Recap
AD 301: Allegedly, San Marino is founded by Christian stonemason Marinus seeking refuge from religious persecution. 1243: First captains regent (joint heads of state) appointed. 1463: Pope gives towns of Fiorentino, Montegiardino and Serravalle. Faetano joins in 1464. 1503: Cesare Borgia occupies San Marino for several months until he dies. ’99: Constitution laid out. 1631: Papacy recognises independence. 1739: Cardinal Alberoni occupies → civil disobedience campaign & appeals to Vatican → independence restored. 1797: Napoleon invades Italy, but respects rights of San Marino. 1815: Congress of Vienna recognises San Marino's independence. ’49: Gives refuge to Italian soldier / nationalist Garibaldi. ’62: Customs union & treaty of friendship and cooperation with Italy. 1940: Italy enters WWII, San Marino remains neutral. ’44: Briefly occupied by Nazis → defeated by the Allies in the Battle of San Marino. ‘45-57: Democratically elected communist government. ’57: Rovereta Affair = constitutional crisis. Competing governments, armed militias, US and Italian intervention and an Italian blockade of San Marino. Communists eventually step down and Christian Democrats take over. ’88: Joins Council of Europe. ’92: Joins UN. 2002: Treaty with OECD to avoid ‘tax haven’ status. ’08: San Marino's historic centre & Mount Titano UNESCO. ’13: Narrow majority votes to join EU, but not enough voters. ’22: Abortion legalized, as one of the last in Europe.
San Marino Facts
- Capital: San Marino
- Language: Italian
- Population: ± 33,800
- Sq km: ± 61,2 km²
- Currency: Euro (€ - EUR)
- Electricity Outlet: F & L (C & E) / 230 V / 50 Hz. Check here.
- Country Code Phone: +378
- Emergency Phone: 112 (general), 15 (ambulance), 18 (fire), 17 (police)
- Visa: San Marino is a part of the EU and Schengen Area. Find more info about Schengen visas here. Easy applications can be arranged via here.
- Vaccinations: None
- Climate: Humid Subtropical Climate (Cfa)
- High season: Summer
Short History Recap
AD 301: Allegedly, San Marino is founded by Christian stonemason Marinus seeking refuge from religious persecution. 1243: First captains regent (joint heads of state) appointed. 1463: Pope gives towns of Fiorentino, Montegiardino and Serravalle. Faetano joins in 1464. 1503: Cesare Borgia occupies San Marino for several months until he dies. ’99: Constitution laid out. 1631: Papacy recognises independence. 1739: Cardinal Alberoni occupies → civil disobedience campaign & appeals to Vatican → independence restored. 1797: Napoleon invades Italy, but respects rights of San Marino. 1815: Congress of Vienna recognises San Marino's independence. ’49: Gives refuge to Italian soldier / nationalist Garibaldi. ’62: Customs union & treaty of friendship and cooperation with Italy. 1940: Italy enters WWII, San Marino remains neutral. ’44: Briefly occupied by Nazis → defeated by the Allies in the Battle of San Marino. ‘45-57: Democratically elected communist government. ’57: Rovereta Affair = constitutional crisis. Competing governments, armed militias, US and Italian intervention and an Italian blockade of San Marino. Communists eventually step down and Christian Democrats take over. ’88: Joins Council of Europe. ’92: Joins UN. 2002: Treaty with OECD to avoid ‘tax haven’ status. ’08: San Marino's historic centre & Mount Titano UNESCO. ’13: Narrow majority votes to join EU, but not enough voters. ’22: Abortion legalized, as one of the last in Europe.
FREE Sights / Activities San Marino
PAID Sights / Activities San Marino
Evening Entertainment
Local Festivals
- Sights: Old Town (Centro Storico) San Marino, Passo delle Streghe, 3 Towers, Piazza della Libertà, Porta San Francesco, Palazzo Pubblico, Monumento a Giuseppe Garibaldi, Forget the Stories Park, Orti Borghesi Park, Basilica del Santo Marino.
- Hikes / Nature: Mount Titan, San Marino Nature Park.
- Day trips: Rimini, Santarcangelo di Romagna.
PAID Sights / Activities San Marino
- Museums: Museo di Stato, Museo della Tortura, Museo della Curiosità, Museo delle Armi Moderne, Titanus Museum, Il Mondo di Leonardo, Museo dell’Emigrante, Museo Pinacoteca San Francesco, Maranello Rosso Musei, Galleria d’Arte Moderna e Contemporanea di San Marino, Museo del Francobollo e della Moneta. The Multi-Museum ticket offers affordable access to most museums, and it can be purchases even cheaper with a Tutto San Marino Card (given out free of charge by hotels).
- Other: San Marino Adventures.
- Wine: Cantina di San Marino, Consorzio Vini Tipici di San Marino.
Evening Entertainment
- Nightlife Areas: Old Town.
- Theatres: Teatro Titano, Teatro Nuovo.
Local Festivals
- Investiture of the New Captains Regent - April & September
- San Marino World Motorcycle Championship – June
- Medieval Days – July
- San Marino Jazz Festival – July
- Adriatic Music Festival – July
- Music Festival San Marino – September
- San Marino’s Day – September 3rd
Budget Bites
Sleep Cheap
- Supermarkets: La Sociale, Cooperativa Titancoop, Chiaruzzi, Conad, Coal. Groceries are cheaper in Italy, compared to San Marino.
- Local Dishes: Ragú (traditional pasta sauce), Passatelli (pasta with breadcrumbs, nutmeg, eggs and cheese), Coniglio con Finocchio (fennel rabbit), Costolette di Vitello (veal), Nidi di Rondine (baked pasta with ham, beef and cheese), Erbazzone (cheese spinach dish), Scaloppine di Vitello (escalopes), Pasta e Ceci (chickpea noodle soup), Fagiolo con le Cotiche (bean and bacon soup), Piada (bread), Torta Tre Monti (layered cake), Cacciatello (dessert).
- The Veg Situation: Going veg is not so complicated in San Marino and Italy, as the local kitchen has quite some ‘accidentally’ plant-based dishes. A veg restaurant guide can be found here. Local veg(etarian) dishes: Passatelli, Erbazzone, Pasta e Cecim Piada & the desserts.
- National Drink: Wine, Moscato, Mistra (aniseed liquor), Tilus (truffle liquor).
Sleep Cheap
- Hostels / Hotels: San Marino is definitely not a cheap country, accommodation-wise. To keep inside a limited budget, you’ll have to focus on hostels or Couchsurfing. Without being paid to say so, I love Booking.com: They have the biggest selection, are transparent about the final price and have an efficient search engine tailored to your specific needs (cheapest first!). If you use it often enough, Genius-discounts are applied. Agoda is often not transparent about prices, adding a lot of additional costs in the last booking-step. Opodo is another decent option. Air BnB is not what it used to be, price-wise, and seem to focus on the more upscale boutique stays nowadays. Writer’s choice: I Couchsurfed.
- Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost (unless you put a third-world country as homebase), but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate review explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored). There is a Couchsurfing community in San Marino.
- Housesitting: is an amazing exchange allowing you to stay short- or long-term in somebody’s house, while looking after their house and pets. There are many different websites, most of them paid… but once you landed a sit, the subscription fee pays itself back quickly. The main housesitting site is Trusted Housesitters.
- Wild Camping: is exceptionally well organized in San Marino. Hardly ever I have seen a country catered so well to campervans, incl. many places to stay. You can of course choose to ‘wild’ camp I the traditional sense of the word, a bit outside the city, but you will find also various organized camping spots which are free of charge. I marked various on my trail recording.
Mama Said
Transport
Next?
- Safety: San Marino has a relatively low crime rate, besides pick-pocketing. Be cautious in crowded areas.
- Tap Water: is drinkable.
- Ethics: Boycott zoos like Agri Zoo San Marino where animals are held in captivity out of their natural habitat.
- The best credit/debit card for traveling is Wise, as they use the live conversion rates with minimal exchange fees. Wise also has the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. Revolut is comparable, but they have higher exchange fees in the weekend and less wallet-options. Also, you can only wire money to Revolut in the currency you opened the account with, whereas Wise has IBAN’s from a wide variety of currencies, so you don’t have to pay a double exchange fee.
- Simcard: The only operator is TIM San Marino. EU Roaming is integrated with the Italian networks. Another option is an eSim, to be bought online.
Transport
- Walking: With San Marino’s modest size, you can easily explore the entire country on foot.
- Cycling: San Marino is very cyclist friendly.
- City Buses / Tram / Metro: Buses are available to get around the country, operated by Azienda Autonoma dei Servizi di Stato. The bus departing from Rimini also stops at 20 different locations. If you’re lazy, you can take the ‘Funivia’ or cable car up to the Old Town of San Marino from the car park.
- Taxi / Uber: There are a few licensed taxi companies available in San Marino.
- Intercity Buses: To travel to San Marino by public transport, you’ll have to reach Rimini first by bus or train. From the Rimini Station, cross the street to the Burger King and buy a bus ticket from Bonelli Bus at the Tabaccheria (they do not sell it at the bus station). The bus goes infrequently, timetable here. The bus stop is close to the Napoleon Hotel. The bus back to Italy leaves from Piazzale Calcigni.
- Train: San Marino has no railway connection. The closest and most well-connected destination to get by train is Rimini, from where you can travel onward by bus. The Italian trains are operated by Trenitalia, and the earlier you book the cheaper your ticket. Trainline is an app known to give good deals as well. It is necessary to validate your paper ticket in advance in one of the machines.
- Car Rental: is available in San Marino, but not necessarily cheap. Italian rentals can also be driven within San Marino. Considering the narrow streets, a small vehicle is recommended.
- Airport: Rimini Federico Fellini International Airport (RMI).
- Hitchhiking: is relatively safe yet rather uncommon. That said, it is a good option.
Next?
- National Destinations Close By: Rimini, Pesaro, Santarcangelo di Romagna, Cesena, Bologna, Florence, Arezzo, Perugia, Modena, Ravenna.
- International Destinations Close By: Italy.
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