Athens
Not in the story-mood? Scroll down for the Quick Budget Fact Overview: an itemized information summary of Athens! ↓
For some reason, visiting a capital city immediately sounds expensive to me. It’s generally these popular commercial urban hubs where you can find elevated prices with regards to housing, food and nightlife. This doesn’t only affect the elevated number of residents, but also the many visitors drawn to it. Especially in Greece, one of Europe’s prime tourist destinations for both local and intercontinental travellers. However, in the case of Athens, it’s exactly the sheer size of the city and its numerous sights competing for your attention, which opens up some budget-travel opportunities… and that’s exactly what we’re diving into in this article.
Free Archaeological Sites
Of all ancient history existent in Europe, the ancient Greek and Roman ones are undoubtedly the most renowned, inspiring even modern-day idealisation and story-telling. Greece, with Athens at its center, has visible remnants of both! The city is known to be inhabited since Neolithic times, but truly flourished in 1412BC as an important hub within the Mycenaean civilization.* By 900BC, Athens had developed as one of the leading trade centres of the region, its secure stronghold on the high Acropolis combined with the easy sea access providing a natural advantage over inland rivals (such as Thebes and Sparta**). Around 500BC, Athens was at its influential peak, due to the victories against the Persian Empire… A period of prosperity and cultural supremacy lasting until the mid-4th Century BC, when Philip II and later his son Alexander the Great of the Kingdom of Macedon defeated the alliance of several Greek city-states. Athens remained a wealthy cultural hub, but lost its position as a leading power. A revival took place when the Romans asserted their hegemony, especially during the rule of Emperor Hadrian (117-138AD).
* Where we can find the Acropolis today, a major Mycenaean fortress was once standing, its remains still visible in certain sections of the Cyclopean Walls.
``** Mycenaae, as well as Sparta, can still be visited on the Peloponnese.
Free Archaeological Sites
Of all ancient history existent in Europe, the ancient Greek and Roman ones are undoubtedly the most renowned, inspiring even modern-day idealisation and story-telling. Greece, with Athens at its center, has visible remnants of both! The city is known to be inhabited since Neolithic times, but truly flourished in 1412BC as an important hub within the Mycenaean civilization.* By 900BC, Athens had developed as one of the leading trade centres of the region, its secure stronghold on the high Acropolis combined with the easy sea access providing a natural advantage over inland rivals (such as Thebes and Sparta**). Around 500BC, Athens was at its influential peak, due to the victories against the Persian Empire… A period of prosperity and cultural supremacy lasting until the mid-4th Century BC, when Philip II and later his son Alexander the Great of the Kingdom of Macedon defeated the alliance of several Greek city-states. Athens remained a wealthy cultural hub, but lost its position as a leading power. A revival took place when the Romans asserted their hegemony, especially during the rule of Emperor Hadrian (117-138AD).
* Where we can find the Acropolis today, a major Mycenaean fortress was once standing, its remains still visible in certain sections of the Cyclopean Walls.
``** Mycenaae, as well as Sparta, can still be visited on the Peloponnese.
And now comes the good news: Did you know that on the first Sunday of every month in between November - March all archaeological sites of Athens are free to visit? Yes, including the Acropolis and the impressive Archaeological Museum! Planning your visit on these dates can save you no less than €30 (price of a combo-ticket anno 2022). Other lucky free dates include 6-mar, 18-apr, 18-may, 05-jun, 28-oct and the last weekend of September. On all other days of the month between November and March, a 50% reduced rate applies.
If your travel itinerary unfortunately doesn’t work out that way, know that some sights can almost entirely be seen from the outside:
The ancient citadel, the Acropolis with its Parthenon, can be seen from every point in downtown Athens. However, as the undisputed highlight and main landmark of the city, a visit is by all means recommended.
* Also in the rest of Greece there’s a 50% discount on the entry fees of archaeological sites during this period, incl. Delphi, Mycenae and Ancient Olympia.
If your travel itinerary unfortunately doesn’t work out that way, know that some sights can almost entirely be seen from the outside:
- Kerameikos: This is the former pottery quarter of Athens, which led to the modern word “ceramics.” The site can be seen in its entirety when peeking through the gates, this higher position actually allowing the best bird’s eye view.
- Lykeion: The period in between the end of the Persian Wars up until the Macedonian conquest mark the glory days of Athens as a center of arts, literature and philosophy. This was the time of great minds forever shaping the world’s cultural and intellectual heritage, including Hippocrates, Sophocles, Socrates and Aristotle. The latter founded the Peripatetic School of Philosophy in 334BC. Aristotle fled Athens in 323BC, but the university continued to be used until the Roman General Sulla destroyed it in 86BC. The remains, consisting of little more than the ground plan, can be seen through the gates.
- Olympieio: The construction of the Temple of Zeus was already initiated in the 6th century BC when Athenian tyrants ran the city. However, it eas only completed in the 2nd Century AD under the reign of the Roman Emperor Hadrian. It was pillaged during Barbarian invasions in 246AD and decomposed for building materials afterwards, but big chunks are still standing… for us to witness today (without having to enter the premises).
- Roman Agora: This ancient public square was constructed during the Roman occupation of Athens. It can be seen entirely through the gates when walking down the surrounding Plaka neighbourhood. Not to be confused with the preceding Ancient Agora, which comprises a much larger site as well as a museum, which would justify an actual visit. The Temple of Hephaestus alone is already worth your time.
- Hadrian’s Library: Situated right next to the Roman Agora sits this building, created by Emperor Hadrian anno 132AD. It can simply be seen from the streets… paying for a ticket doesn’t add to the experience, as you can’t enter it anyway. Other structures referring to the reign of Hadrian include the gymnasium, an aqueduct and the Arch of Hadrian still prominently standing tall in the Athenian streets.
The ancient citadel, the Acropolis with its Parthenon, can be seen from every point in downtown Athens. However, as the undisputed highlight and main landmark of the city, a visit is by all means recommended.
* Also in the rest of Greece there’s a 50% discount on the entry fees of archaeological sites during this period, incl. Delphi, Mycenae and Ancient Olympia.
Free Museums
Benaki Museum
Did you know that the word “museum” comes from the Greek term “mouseion,” meaning “Seat of the Muses”? You do now. Needless to say, a visit to Greece’s capital isn’t complete without a visit to at least a few of them, the Benaki Museum (named after the founder Antonis Benakis) ranking among one of my personal favourites. The exhibition entails a very complete collection of artworks leading visitors through all ages of Greek art, culture and history. Expect to find ancient pottery, figurines, jewellery, canvases and black-figure style vase paintings depicting the first establishments of the renowned Greek democratic politics. Also a Greek word, by the way: “Demokratia” is a fusion of “demos” (the people) and “kratia” (power). Hm, and I almost thought those years of studying ancient Greek served no purpose. Silly me!
The Benaki collection further spreads out in some satellite museums focused on different themes: the Museum of Islamic Art, the Ghika Gallery and the Yannis Pappas Studio.
Free entry: Every Thursday.
Archaeological Museum
Honestly, there can’t be a better place to visit an archaeological museum then in mother*cking Greece. And needless to say, it’s massive – in fact, the biggest museum of the entire country! The Mother of all Archaeological Museums houses some of the most significant artifacts from a wide variety of famous locations around Greece, dating from the prehistory to late antiquity. Sights to marvel at include the Death Mask of Agamemnon, the Bronze Statue of Zeus and Nestor’s Cup. I roamed through this museum during both of my visits to Athens and I still feel there is plenty to discover here.
Free entry: The same days as listed above on the archaeological sites.
Acropolis Museum
There have been documented habitations on the Acropolis as early as the Neolithic times (6th millennium BC), after which it truly prospered during the Mycenaean era. Where the renowned Parthenon stands today, once stood a Mycenaean castle, the “Hekatompedon” temple to Athena, the Arkhaios Neos temple, and the “Old Parthenon” (built with bricks of the Olympeion). Some were purposely dismantled to make place for the newer versions, but most were destroyed and sacked by the (Persian) enemies. The final version of the Parthenon as we know it today was rebuilt by the order of Pericles during the reputed Golden Age of Athens, dating 460-430BC. Under the reign of the Byzantines it shortly transmuted into a church, and under the Ottomans it even housed a mosque… but after the Greek War of Independence this national landmark was “cleansed” of all influences and reduced to its original form. That form you can witness during a visit to Athens' most famous sight, whereas the artefacts found over time are exhibited in the adjacent Acropolis Museum.
Free entry: The same days as listed above on the archaeological sites.
Benaki Museum
Did you know that the word “museum” comes from the Greek term “mouseion,” meaning “Seat of the Muses”? You do now. Needless to say, a visit to Greece’s capital isn’t complete without a visit to at least a few of them, the Benaki Museum (named after the founder Antonis Benakis) ranking among one of my personal favourites. The exhibition entails a very complete collection of artworks leading visitors through all ages of Greek art, culture and history. Expect to find ancient pottery, figurines, jewellery, canvases and black-figure style vase paintings depicting the first establishments of the renowned Greek democratic politics. Also a Greek word, by the way: “Demokratia” is a fusion of “demos” (the people) and “kratia” (power). Hm, and I almost thought those years of studying ancient Greek served no purpose. Silly me!
The Benaki collection further spreads out in some satellite museums focused on different themes: the Museum of Islamic Art, the Ghika Gallery and the Yannis Pappas Studio.
Free entry: Every Thursday.
Archaeological Museum
Honestly, there can’t be a better place to visit an archaeological museum then in mother*cking Greece. And needless to say, it’s massive – in fact, the biggest museum of the entire country! The Mother of all Archaeological Museums houses some of the most significant artifacts from a wide variety of famous locations around Greece, dating from the prehistory to late antiquity. Sights to marvel at include the Death Mask of Agamemnon, the Bronze Statue of Zeus and Nestor’s Cup. I roamed through this museum during both of my visits to Athens and I still feel there is plenty to discover here.
Free entry: The same days as listed above on the archaeological sites.
Acropolis Museum
There have been documented habitations on the Acropolis as early as the Neolithic times (6th millennium BC), after which it truly prospered during the Mycenaean era. Where the renowned Parthenon stands today, once stood a Mycenaean castle, the “Hekatompedon” temple to Athena, the Arkhaios Neos temple, and the “Old Parthenon” (built with bricks of the Olympeion). Some were purposely dismantled to make place for the newer versions, but most were destroyed and sacked by the (Persian) enemies. The final version of the Parthenon as we know it today was rebuilt by the order of Pericles during the reputed Golden Age of Athens, dating 460-430BC. Under the reign of the Byzantines it shortly transmuted into a church, and under the Ottomans it even housed a mosque… but after the Greek War of Independence this national landmark was “cleansed” of all influences and reduced to its original form. That form you can witness during a visit to Athens' most famous sight, whereas the artefacts found over time are exhibited in the adjacent Acropolis Museum.
Free entry: The same days as listed above on the archaeological sites.
National Historical and Ethnological Museum
To me, the most interesting part of this museum is that it’s housed in the country’s former parliament building. However, it’s collection is also worth a shot: It’s mainly focussed on the history from the Ottoman domination until the Second World War, with special attention to the Greek Revolution and the formation of the modern Greek state. Visitors are treated on exhibitions of old weaponry, manuscripts, costumes and historical paintings.
Free entry: Every Sunday.
Museum of Greek Folk Instruments
Laghoutas, flogheras, toubelekias… If you know what I’m talking about, you should probably allocate some time to visiting the Museum of Greek Folk Instruments, as clearly you’re an enthusiast. If these are entirely new terms to you, this is the place to broaden your horizon. The museum houses over 1200 typical Greek musical instruments, housed within the previous mansion of Greek Independence War hero Yiorgos Lassanis.
Free entry: Always.
Museum of Folk Art and Tradition / Museum of Modern Greek Culture
An easy drop-in when walking around the Monastiraki area: This tiny exhibition highlighting Greek folklore and tradition. Mind you, there are several exhibition areas: The Tzisdarakis Mosque, the Bathhouse of the Winds, 22 Panos Street and the Museum of Greek Folk Music Instruments which is now renamed Museum of Modern Greek Culture. A tad confusing, but Google Maps will bring you there and all is free of charge!
Free entry: Always.
To me, the most interesting part of this museum is that it’s housed in the country’s former parliament building. However, it’s collection is also worth a shot: It’s mainly focussed on the history from the Ottoman domination until the Second World War, with special attention to the Greek Revolution and the formation of the modern Greek state. Visitors are treated on exhibitions of old weaponry, manuscripts, costumes and historical paintings.
Free entry: Every Sunday.
Museum of Greek Folk Instruments
Laghoutas, flogheras, toubelekias… If you know what I’m talking about, you should probably allocate some time to visiting the Museum of Greek Folk Instruments, as clearly you’re an enthusiast. If these are entirely new terms to you, this is the place to broaden your horizon. The museum houses over 1200 typical Greek musical instruments, housed within the previous mansion of Greek Independence War hero Yiorgos Lassanis.
Free entry: Always.
Museum of Folk Art and Tradition / Museum of Modern Greek Culture
An easy drop-in when walking around the Monastiraki area: This tiny exhibition highlighting Greek folklore and tradition. Mind you, there are several exhibition areas: The Tzisdarakis Mosque, the Bathhouse of the Winds, 22 Panos Street and the Museum of Greek Folk Music Instruments which is now renamed Museum of Modern Greek Culture. A tad confusing, but Google Maps will bring you there and all is free of charge!
Free entry: Always.
Hellenic Children’s Museum
Specifically designed for children, this museum’s main focus is to broaden overall knowledge and experience through play. By means of interactive exhibitions, young ones can explore the principles of fields such as geometry, marketing and cooking in an entertaining manner. As I am 35 years old and deliberately childless, I can’t write a review from any personal experiences… But by all means, go and have a look, it’s free anyway!
Free entry: Always.
Marousi Local Art Gallery
The area of Marousi is located quite far out of the city center, but its vibrant hustle and bustle and pleasant village-style layout truly justifies an exploration for those lucky enough to spend some more time in Athens. The heart of the neighbourhood houses a small art gallery, exhibiting varying expositions of local artists. During my visit I was subjected to a photo-meets-painting collection symbolizing scenes of Lord Byron’s travels… a forebode of what we now know as a “travelblogger.” While there, you might as well drop into the Natural History Museum of Marousi, hosting a vast collection of mummified specimens of the local Greek fauna.
Free entry: Always.
Municipal Gallery
Allegedly, the Municipal Gallery of Athens hosts nearly 3000 artworks. Not sure what happened to those, as during my visit there were about 30 at best. Not complaining, as I didn’t pay for it and the building was charming enough… but still.
Free entry: Always.
Specifically designed for children, this museum’s main focus is to broaden overall knowledge and experience through play. By means of interactive exhibitions, young ones can explore the principles of fields such as geometry, marketing and cooking in an entertaining manner. As I am 35 years old and deliberately childless, I can’t write a review from any personal experiences… But by all means, go and have a look, it’s free anyway!
Free entry: Always.
Marousi Local Art Gallery
The area of Marousi is located quite far out of the city center, but its vibrant hustle and bustle and pleasant village-style layout truly justifies an exploration for those lucky enough to spend some more time in Athens. The heart of the neighbourhood houses a small art gallery, exhibiting varying expositions of local artists. During my visit I was subjected to a photo-meets-painting collection symbolizing scenes of Lord Byron’s travels… a forebode of what we now know as a “travelblogger.” While there, you might as well drop into the Natural History Museum of Marousi, hosting a vast collection of mummified specimens of the local Greek fauna.
Free entry: Always.
Municipal Gallery
Allegedly, the Municipal Gallery of Athens hosts nearly 3000 artworks. Not sure what happened to those, as during my visit there were about 30 at best. Not complaining, as I didn’t pay for it and the building was charming enough… but still.
Free entry: Always.
Koraï 4
At Koraï 4 stands a building that initially belonged to Ethnike Insurance, but was swiftly snatched away by the Nazi German army in April 1941 the very minute they laid eyes on it. Not only did it serve as a headquarters of the military command, the sound-proof bomb shelters 6m underground deemed useful for interrogations and torture of the “unwanted elements.” Over the course of WWII, over 1000 Greeks passed through this building, prior to be transferred to either a concentration camp, work camp or execution site. Most victims were kept here for only a few days, but the carvings mentioning their names, dates and desperate outcries for water can still be seen today.
Free entry: Always.
Gounaropoulos Museum
Giorgios Gounaropoulos was born to a Greek family at the Black Sea coast of Bulgaria. When during an entirely different timeline the Bulgarian government started pressuring the local Greek population to assimilate and take on the Bulgarian identity, the family promptly moved back to Greece. This is where Giorgios’ artistic career took off, creating a unique style of his own which was later analysed as “poetic painting”. This style focuses on creating an imaginary dreamworld based on the painter's birthplace’s myths and legends, unfolding itself like visual poetry. His son turned his former house and workplace into a museum, which was later expanded with an Art and Culture Center for events and activities.
Free entry: Always.
Athens University History Museum
Founded in my birth year 1987, this museum serves as a means of collecting, preserving, studying and presenting the university’s historical artefacts and memorabilia, sorted by faculty and theme (philosophy, art, law, medicine, theology). Besides that, the building serves as a stage for lectures, cultural events, exhibitions and symposia.
Free entry: Always.
At Koraï 4 stands a building that initially belonged to Ethnike Insurance, but was swiftly snatched away by the Nazi German army in April 1941 the very minute they laid eyes on it. Not only did it serve as a headquarters of the military command, the sound-proof bomb shelters 6m underground deemed useful for interrogations and torture of the “unwanted elements.” Over the course of WWII, over 1000 Greeks passed through this building, prior to be transferred to either a concentration camp, work camp or execution site. Most victims were kept here for only a few days, but the carvings mentioning their names, dates and desperate outcries for water can still be seen today.
Free entry: Always.
Gounaropoulos Museum
Giorgios Gounaropoulos was born to a Greek family at the Black Sea coast of Bulgaria. When during an entirely different timeline the Bulgarian government started pressuring the local Greek population to assimilate and take on the Bulgarian identity, the family promptly moved back to Greece. This is where Giorgios’ artistic career took off, creating a unique style of his own which was later analysed as “poetic painting”. This style focuses on creating an imaginary dreamworld based on the painter's birthplace’s myths and legends, unfolding itself like visual poetry. His son turned his former house and workplace into a museum, which was later expanded with an Art and Culture Center for events and activities.
Free entry: Always.
Athens University History Museum
Founded in my birth year 1987, this museum serves as a means of collecting, preserving, studying and presenting the university’s historical artefacts and memorabilia, sorted by faculty and theme (philosophy, art, law, medicine, theology). Besides that, the building serves as a stage for lectures, cultural events, exhibitions and symposia.
Free entry: Always.
Philatelic and Postal Museum
I used to collect stamps. I don’t anymore… because it bored the shit out of me. As such, I didn’t go to this museum. But you can of course, and dive deep into that postal history of Greece. Freebie!
Free entry: Always.
Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre
The Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre is much more than just the National Library of Greece and the National Opera (like these were small institutions to begin with). Nowadays, the flashy building designed by the Italian architect Renzo Piano serves as a hybrid art centre offering a wide variety of activities and events, including concerts, exhibitions and movie screenings. You can even sign up for free yoga, pilates, cross training and other sports. Truly recommended when you happen to be in the area of Kallithea.
Free entry: Always.
Digital Plato Museum
I randomly stumbled upon this tiny museum when having some time to kill at the bus station (it’s a 15–20-minute walk from there). If you want to brush up on your knowledge of Plato and Socrates, this is your chance. In an entirely digital museum (housed inside a physical museum), you are guided through the life paths of both philosophical giants in a light and entertaining manner. Looking at the rather deprived neighbourhood you wouldn’t immediately guess it, but the location used to be the epicentre of enlightenment when Plato’s Academy was located on these very grounds!
Free entry: Always.
I used to collect stamps. I don’t anymore… because it bored the shit out of me. As such, I didn’t go to this museum. But you can of course, and dive deep into that postal history of Greece. Freebie!
Free entry: Always.
Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre
The Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Centre is much more than just the National Library of Greece and the National Opera (like these were small institutions to begin with). Nowadays, the flashy building designed by the Italian architect Renzo Piano serves as a hybrid art centre offering a wide variety of activities and events, including concerts, exhibitions and movie screenings. You can even sign up for free yoga, pilates, cross training and other sports. Truly recommended when you happen to be in the area of Kallithea.
Free entry: Always.
Digital Plato Museum
I randomly stumbled upon this tiny museum when having some time to kill at the bus station (it’s a 15–20-minute walk from there). If you want to brush up on your knowledge of Plato and Socrates, this is your chance. In an entirely digital museum (housed inside a physical museum), you are guided through the life paths of both philosophical giants in a light and entertaining manner. Looking at the rather deprived neighbourhood you wouldn’t immediately guess it, but the location used to be the epicentre of enlightenment when Plato’s Academy was located on these very grounds!
Free entry: Always.
Underground Museums: The Athens Metro
No time to hop into one of Athens’ many museums? Maybe you can sneak a quick peek into the Acropolis, Syntagma or Evangelismos metro stations while commuting! When the capital’s subway system was expanded, builders stumbled upon a treasure trove of antique artefacts… as is to be expected in a place like this. The municipality generously decided to exhibit them to the public.
Free entry: Always.
Street Art
I’ve heard Athens being dubbed the “Street Art Capital of Europe”… and I strongly disagree. Yes, there is a collection of amazing street art, but don’t you dare insult London, Glasgow or Berlin like that. That said, it surely can fill a pleasant art-centred day. The focal point of your graffiti explorations will be the streets and alleys of Psirri, Keramikos, Metaxorgeio, Exarchia and Gazi. Top street artists of Athens include Stmts, Alexandros Vasmoulakis, WD, Woozy and Sonke. Free art for all!
Free entry: Always.
Several blogs mention the National Museum of Contemporary Art to be freely accessible every Thursday from 5-10PM. This is not the case anymore! I tried this and got confirmed by one employee this was only the last Thursday of the month, whereas another mentioned the first. They work there and don't even know... Honestly, it’s not really worth the hassle anyway. I consider myself a modern/contemporary art enthusiast, but this was even too abstract for me. Where does art end and kid’s scribbling start?
Supposedly free museums which were in fact closed during my latest visit: The Greek Film Archive Foundation; Electric Railway Museum Piraeus; Museum and Study Center of the Greek Theatre.
No time to hop into one of Athens’ many museums? Maybe you can sneak a quick peek into the Acropolis, Syntagma or Evangelismos metro stations while commuting! When the capital’s subway system was expanded, builders stumbled upon a treasure trove of antique artefacts… as is to be expected in a place like this. The municipality generously decided to exhibit them to the public.
Free entry: Always.
Street Art
I’ve heard Athens being dubbed the “Street Art Capital of Europe”… and I strongly disagree. Yes, there is a collection of amazing street art, but don’t you dare insult London, Glasgow or Berlin like that. That said, it surely can fill a pleasant art-centred day. The focal point of your graffiti explorations will be the streets and alleys of Psirri, Keramikos, Metaxorgeio, Exarchia and Gazi. Top street artists of Athens include Stmts, Alexandros Vasmoulakis, WD, Woozy and Sonke. Free art for all!
Free entry: Always.
Several blogs mention the National Museum of Contemporary Art to be freely accessible every Thursday from 5-10PM. This is not the case anymore! I tried this and got confirmed by one employee this was only the last Thursday of the month, whereas another mentioned the first. They work there and don't even know... Honestly, it’s not really worth the hassle anyway. I consider myself a modern/contemporary art enthusiast, but this was even too abstract for me. Where does art end and kid’s scribbling start?
Supposedly free museums which were in fact closed during my latest visit: The Greek Film Archive Foundation; Electric Railway Museum Piraeus; Museum and Study Center of the Greek Theatre.
Free Sights
Panathenaic Stadium
The root of the Olympic Games can be found in Ancient Olympia, a site not too far from Athens, situated on the Peloponnese. The games were both a religious and athletic festival, held between representatives of the city-states of Ancient Greece to honor the primary god Zeus. The event ceased to exist when the Christian party-pooper Theodosius I (a Roman Emperor) eliminated all pagan cults and practices. The famous festival slowly sank into oblivion, until the Greek War of Independence (1821) triggered new national sentiments and with that a renewed interest in the Greek Olympics. The first modern Olympics were organised in 1859, on a square in Athens between Greek and Ottoman athletes. Soon after that, restoration works of the ancient Panathenaic Stadium were initiated in order to host the event there, as was done in 1870 and 1875. That said, the Olympic Games as we know it came into existence in 1890, when the International Olympic Committee was established, aiming to organize 4-yearly Olympic Games rotating in various host cities… Of course, the very first official one in 1896 had to be held in the Panathenaic Stadium of Athens. An iconic place in the global sports history!
* In 2004, Athens hosted the Summer Olympics once again. Several new Olympic sports complexes were built for this event, the main one in Marousi making for an interesting visit (especially for photography).
Panathenaic Stadium
The root of the Olympic Games can be found in Ancient Olympia, a site not too far from Athens, situated on the Peloponnese. The games were both a religious and athletic festival, held between representatives of the city-states of Ancient Greece to honor the primary god Zeus. The event ceased to exist when the Christian party-pooper Theodosius I (a Roman Emperor) eliminated all pagan cults and practices. The famous festival slowly sank into oblivion, until the Greek War of Independence (1821) triggered new national sentiments and with that a renewed interest in the Greek Olympics. The first modern Olympics were organised in 1859, on a square in Athens between Greek and Ottoman athletes. Soon after that, restoration works of the ancient Panathenaic Stadium were initiated in order to host the event there, as was done in 1870 and 1875. That said, the Olympic Games as we know it came into existence in 1890, when the International Olympic Committee was established, aiming to organize 4-yearly Olympic Games rotating in various host cities… Of course, the very first official one in 1896 had to be held in the Panathenaic Stadium of Athens. An iconic place in the global sports history!
* In 2004, Athens hosted the Summer Olympics once again. Several new Olympic sports complexes were built for this event, the main one in Marousi making for an interesting visit (especially for photography).
Changing of the Guard
They look a bit goofy, with those pompoms on their shoes… but don’t be mistaken: The evzones form the absolute elite alliance within the Hellenic Army, representing courage and bravery. The guards, also known as the Tsoliades, are an aggregation of the tallest and fittest men, specifically selected to watch the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier commemorating all soldiers fallen for the Greek nation. The tasks have a ceremonial nature and require every soldier to stand guard, 3 times an hour within 48 hours. During this duty they have to stand perfectly still, even face- and eye movements are not allowed. When the guard is changed, which happens on the hour, the steps are carried out in slow-motion to secure the blood circulation after 60 minutes of absolute inactivity. On Sundays at 11AM an entire troupe of evzones march towards the Tomb, wearing a uniform referring to the Kleftes and Armatoloi warriors who fought the Ottomans during the War of Independence. There are exactly 400 folds in the uniform, representing 400 years of Ottoman occupation.
They look a bit goofy, with those pompoms on their shoes… but don’t be mistaken: The evzones form the absolute elite alliance within the Hellenic Army, representing courage and bravery. The guards, also known as the Tsoliades, are an aggregation of the tallest and fittest men, specifically selected to watch the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier commemorating all soldiers fallen for the Greek nation. The tasks have a ceremonial nature and require every soldier to stand guard, 3 times an hour within 48 hours. During this duty they have to stand perfectly still, even face- and eye movements are not allowed. When the guard is changed, which happens on the hour, the steps are carried out in slow-motion to secure the blood circulation after 60 minutes of absolute inactivity. On Sundays at 11AM an entire troupe of evzones march towards the Tomb, wearing a uniform referring to the Kleftes and Armatoloi warriors who fought the Ottomans during the War of Independence. There are exactly 400 folds in the uniform, representing 400 years of Ottoman occupation.
Viewpoints
Walking through the swirling streets of Athens is an entertaining experience… but seeing the mere size of this metropolis from above, with the far-famed Acropolis rising over that buzzling labyrinth like the Queen of Many Histories: that’s the ticket. There are in fact many spots to obtain this bird’s eye view. The most visited lookout point is the Lycabettus Hill, undoubtedly because the sluggards among us have the opportunity to drag their lazy asses up by cable car (silly insult reserved to those in good physical health). This point provides at 277m a splendid 360-degrees view, reaching as far as the Saronic Gulf! During my first visit to Athens over Easter, I participated in a religious procession commemorating the death of Christ: With lit candles in hand, my classmates and I headed up the Lycabettus Hill towards the St. George Church, following the long parade of candle-lit faces.
Another option is the Philopappou Hill, surrounded by a lovely forest (which at some points also blocks the view). A popular sunset spot is the Areopagus Hill, where the city unfolds itself in front of you while the Acropolis watches over you from the back. Strefi Hill can be reached from the Exarcheia neighbourhood.
Walking through the swirling streets of Athens is an entertaining experience… but seeing the mere size of this metropolis from above, with the far-famed Acropolis rising over that buzzling labyrinth like the Queen of Many Histories: that’s the ticket. There are in fact many spots to obtain this bird’s eye view. The most visited lookout point is the Lycabettus Hill, undoubtedly because the sluggards among us have the opportunity to drag their lazy asses up by cable car (silly insult reserved to those in good physical health). This point provides at 277m a splendid 360-degrees view, reaching as far as the Saronic Gulf! During my first visit to Athens over Easter, I participated in a religious procession commemorating the death of Christ: With lit candles in hand, my classmates and I headed up the Lycabettus Hill towards the St. George Church, following the long parade of candle-lit faces.
Another option is the Philopappou Hill, surrounded by a lovely forest (which at some points also blocks the view). A popular sunset spot is the Areopagus Hill, where the city unfolds itself in front of you while the Acropolis watches over you from the back. Strefi Hill can be reached from the Exarcheia neighbourhood.
Opening photo by Miles Watson Photography.
Nightlife
Not entirely cost-free, I admit… as they truly know how to overcharge you for a drink in Athens, or in Greece in general. But breathing in the nightlife buzz, potentially with a bottle of wine in your backpack, is without charge. The most illustrious area for night entertainment is Plaka, creeping up the Acropolis hill. Other options surrounding the central area are Patsion and Thiseio. Neighbourhoods like Psiri, Exarchia, Gazi, Koukaki, Metaxourgeio and Keramikos provide a more low-key, urban vibe. Choose your scene!
* I specifically loved Karaiskaki Street, Anafiotika and Tsakalof. Goolgle ‘n go!
Nightlife
Not entirely cost-free, I admit… as they truly know how to overcharge you for a drink in Athens, or in Greece in general. But breathing in the nightlife buzz, potentially with a bottle of wine in your backpack, is without charge. The most illustrious area for night entertainment is Plaka, creeping up the Acropolis hill. Other options surrounding the central area are Patsion and Thiseio. Neighbourhoods like Psiri, Exarchia, Gazi, Koukaki, Metaxourgeio and Keramikos provide a more low-key, urban vibe. Choose your scene!
* I specifically loved Karaiskaki Street, Anafiotika and Tsakalof. Goolgle ‘n go!
Free Day Trips
Mount Ymittos
Yes, Athens is an urban jungle. However, in Europe any city is still relatively compact enough to provide a sweet escape. In the case of Athens, this comes in the form of Mount Ymittos / Hymettus. With its height of 1026m this mountain offers a challenging hiking getaway for the cosmopolitans of the capital, who enjoy blazing the barren limestone peaks on their weekends off. The terrain is considerably arid and rocky, with patches of forest on the northern side. The flanks are speckled with caves, the largest one being the Koutouki Cave. A sanctuary to Zeus used to embellish the summit*, but nowadays it’s the collection of Byzantine monasteries adding a puff of culture to this outdoor adventure.
Find Mount Ymittos hikes here.
* The remains of the sanctuary are located on a military base and cannot be visited. The Byzantine Monasteries include the Kaisariani, St. John the Hunter, Kareas and Asteriou Monastery.
Marathon
Prior to the rise of Athens, it was Sparta who led the Greeks. That changed in 499BC, when Athens sent troops to back up the Ionian Greeks of Asia Minor who had started a rebellion against the Persian Empire. Triggered by this action, a Persian War fired up against the Greek nation. In the height of battle, in the year 490BC, Athens came to a glorious victory under the soldier Miltiades, who bravely defeated the Persians under Darius I. This day is still remembered as the Battle of Marathon.
Hm, isn’t that related to..? Yes, it indeed is. After the battle was won, the soldier Pheidippides ran in one non-stop stretch from Marathon to Athens to bring the good news… promptly collapsing on the spot once this task was accomplished. The 42,195m route he took formed the inspiration of the very first Marathon Race, first taking place in 1896 during the revival of the Olympic Games. The first person to ever triumph into this iconic competition was Spyros Louis, which instantly transformed him into a legend and eternal Greek hero. Nowadays, the Marathon is an event copied and successfully implemented all over the globe. As a representation of the ultimate test of the limits of the body, mind and soul, it takes a prominent place in the hearts of passionate sport enthusiasts worldwide. Visiting the town of Marathon (as well as the Panathenaic Stadium where the race ends – described earlier in this article) is a daytrip ranked highest on the list. Besides the Marathon Museum and the official Marathon Race Start, one can explore the Marathon Lake, the Sanctuary of the Egyptian Gods, the Monastery of St. Ephraim and the Monastery of St. Raphael.
* Ktel operates 4-hourly buses from the Attikis Station to Marathon Beach.
Mount Ymittos
Yes, Athens is an urban jungle. However, in Europe any city is still relatively compact enough to provide a sweet escape. In the case of Athens, this comes in the form of Mount Ymittos / Hymettus. With its height of 1026m this mountain offers a challenging hiking getaway for the cosmopolitans of the capital, who enjoy blazing the barren limestone peaks on their weekends off. The terrain is considerably arid and rocky, with patches of forest on the northern side. The flanks are speckled with caves, the largest one being the Koutouki Cave. A sanctuary to Zeus used to embellish the summit*, but nowadays it’s the collection of Byzantine monasteries adding a puff of culture to this outdoor adventure.
Find Mount Ymittos hikes here.
* The remains of the sanctuary are located on a military base and cannot be visited. The Byzantine Monasteries include the Kaisariani, St. John the Hunter, Kareas and Asteriou Monastery.
Marathon
Prior to the rise of Athens, it was Sparta who led the Greeks. That changed in 499BC, when Athens sent troops to back up the Ionian Greeks of Asia Minor who had started a rebellion against the Persian Empire. Triggered by this action, a Persian War fired up against the Greek nation. In the height of battle, in the year 490BC, Athens came to a glorious victory under the soldier Miltiades, who bravely defeated the Persians under Darius I. This day is still remembered as the Battle of Marathon.
Hm, isn’t that related to..? Yes, it indeed is. After the battle was won, the soldier Pheidippides ran in one non-stop stretch from Marathon to Athens to bring the good news… promptly collapsing on the spot once this task was accomplished. The 42,195m route he took formed the inspiration of the very first Marathon Race, first taking place in 1896 during the revival of the Olympic Games. The first person to ever triumph into this iconic competition was Spyros Louis, which instantly transformed him into a legend and eternal Greek hero. Nowadays, the Marathon is an event copied and successfully implemented all over the globe. As a representation of the ultimate test of the limits of the body, mind and soul, it takes a prominent place in the hearts of passionate sport enthusiasts worldwide. Visiting the town of Marathon (as well as the Panathenaic Stadium where the race ends – described earlier in this article) is a daytrip ranked highest on the list. Besides the Marathon Museum and the official Marathon Race Start, one can explore the Marathon Lake, the Sanctuary of the Egyptian Gods, the Monastery of St. Ephraim and the Monastery of St. Raphael.
* Ktel operates 4-hourly buses from the Attikis Station to Marathon Beach.
Cape Sounion
Presumably the best sunset hangout of the region can be found at the southernmost tip of the Attica Peninsula, fiercely dipping into the Aegean Sea. The most noted sight is the Temple of Poseidon, its majestic silhouette contrasting sharply with the orange-pink shades of twilight. The original one was destroyed by Persian troops during Xerxes I’s invasion of Greece… however, this territory would later form the stage of the legendary naval Battle of Salamis, in which this same Xerxes I was gloriously defeated by the Athenians.
* Ktel operates hourly buses from the Attika station to Cape Sounion. The trip can take over 1,5 hours one way.
Presumably the best sunset hangout of the region can be found at the southernmost tip of the Attica Peninsula, fiercely dipping into the Aegean Sea. The most noted sight is the Temple of Poseidon, its majestic silhouette contrasting sharply with the orange-pink shades of twilight. The original one was destroyed by Persian troops during Xerxes I’s invasion of Greece… however, this territory would later form the stage of the legendary naval Battle of Salamis, in which this same Xerxes I was gloriously defeated by the Athenians.
* Ktel operates hourly buses from the Attika station to Cape Sounion. The trip can take over 1,5 hours one way.
Getting around on the Cheap
Forget about taxis or rental cars… the easiest, cheapest and fastest way to get around town is by public transport. There’s definitely no shortage of options in Athens: There are buses, trolleybuses, trams and metros. The great thing is: they operate all on one ticket which is valid for 90 minutes once you first scanned it, with an unlimited amount of transfers. Excluded from this network is the airport service, for which the bastards notoriously overcharge because they can. It’s cheaper to take the X93, X95, X96 or X97 airport buses, that operate more frequently anyway.
Tickets can be bought in the ticket machines at every metro station. It gets slightly cheaper if you buy the 2- or 5-package deals. There are also 24-hour or 5-day tickets available if you plan to do some intense sightseeing without a desire to walk around too much. If you simply fly into Athens for the weekend, the 3-day tourist ticket including an airport roundtrip will be the cheapest option. All updated prices can be found here.
As a random act of kindness, most passengers leave their still usable ticket on top of the ticket machine or entry gates. I recommend always checking for this before buying your ticket, as a friendly stranger might just have given you a free ride! And of course: pass this favor on to others when finishing your journey without having used the full 90 minutes.
I also often witnessed multiple people getting in on 1 ticket, by closely walking behind each other. The entry gates don’t shut as long as there’s a body in the middle of it. I saw this been done in front of inspectors… they really don’t pay sufficient attention, and once in, tickets generally aren’t checked anymore (it does mean that you have to shadow a person on the way out as well). However, if caught, the fee is 60x the ticket price… which basically means that if it goes wrong only once in 60 times, it was all for nothing. It’s honestly not worth the stress, if you ask me.
Forget about taxis or rental cars… the easiest, cheapest and fastest way to get around town is by public transport. There’s definitely no shortage of options in Athens: There are buses, trolleybuses, trams and metros. The great thing is: they operate all on one ticket which is valid for 90 minutes once you first scanned it, with an unlimited amount of transfers. Excluded from this network is the airport service, for which the bastards notoriously overcharge because they can. It’s cheaper to take the X93, X95, X96 or X97 airport buses, that operate more frequently anyway.
Tickets can be bought in the ticket machines at every metro station. It gets slightly cheaper if you buy the 2- or 5-package deals. There are also 24-hour or 5-day tickets available if you plan to do some intense sightseeing without a desire to walk around too much. If you simply fly into Athens for the weekend, the 3-day tourist ticket including an airport roundtrip will be the cheapest option. All updated prices can be found here.
As a random act of kindness, most passengers leave their still usable ticket on top of the ticket machine or entry gates. I recommend always checking for this before buying your ticket, as a friendly stranger might just have given you a free ride! And of course: pass this favor on to others when finishing your journey without having used the full 90 minutes.
I also often witnessed multiple people getting in on 1 ticket, by closely walking behind each other. The entry gates don’t shut as long as there’s a body in the middle of it. I saw this been done in front of inspectors… they really don’t pay sufficient attention, and once in, tickets generally aren’t checked anymore (it does mean that you have to shadow a person on the way out as well). However, if caught, the fee is 60x the ticket price… which basically means that if it goes wrong only once in 60 times, it was all for nothing. It’s honestly not worth the stress, if you ask me.
Free Accommodation
I stayed in Athens free of charge. Wait what, how? I landed a housesit on Trusted Housesitters, and as such, could freely move into a pleasant apartment while taking care of two adorable cats, as an extra bonus. Before that housesit kicked off, I stayed at the couch of a local via the Couchsurfing network… also free of charge, with the opportunity to meet new people, submerge into their culture and share meals, drinks and stories.
Want a free gym with that? In Serafia there’s a 7,2ha sports complex with free access to basketball, football and tennis courts, two swimming pools, as well as an indoor fitness centre. You do need to register with a health certificate in Greek.
I stayed in Athens free of charge. Wait what, how? I landed a housesit on Trusted Housesitters, and as such, could freely move into a pleasant apartment while taking care of two adorable cats, as an extra bonus. Before that housesit kicked off, I stayed at the couch of a local via the Couchsurfing network… also free of charge, with the opportunity to meet new people, submerge into their culture and share meals, drinks and stories.
Want a free gym with that? In Serafia there’s a 7,2ha sports complex with free access to basketball, football and tennis courts, two swimming pools, as well as an indoor fitness centre. You do need to register with a health certificate in Greek.
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Quick Budget Fact Overview
Greece Facts
Short History Recap
3000-1400BC: Cycladic / Early Bronze Age – Cyclades settle in Asia Minor. 2100-1500BC: Minoan culture. 1400BC: Minoan centres destroyed by natural elements and abandoned. 1400-750BC: Mycenaean / Dorian Period – Mycenaeans from Peloponnese rise to prominence. 1150BC: Dorians conquer large areas of Peloponnese. 776BC: First Olympic Games. 750-550BC: Archaic Period – City-states Athens / Sparta / Thebes / Corinth compete for supremacy. 550BC: Sparta forms Peloponnesian League, rivalry with Athens. 500-338BC: Classical Period – Persia’s King Darius attempts to conquer Greece, but is defeated by Athenian army at Marathon. 481-479BC: Darius’ son Xerxes invades – Spartan king Leonidas (small army) finally falls at Battle of Thermopylae. Athens captured, but sinks Persian fleet off Salamis in surprise attack. 431-404BC: Peloponnesian Wars. Sparta controls most of Greece. 338BC: Philip II of Macedonia defeats Athens/Thebes at Battle of Chaeronea and unites all Greek cities except of Sparta. 338BC-395AD: Hellenistic / Roman Period – Philip II assassinated. His son, Alexander the Great, develops Greece into imperial power with Macedonia at governmental centre. 323BC: Diadochi divide empire after Alexander’s death. Centres of power shift to Middle East / Egypt. 320-275BC: Rome emerges as major power. 146BC: Greece province of Roman Empire. 295-1453AD Byzantine Period – Roman Empire divided in East (Byzantine) and West. 1204: Crusaders attack Constantinople. Franks / Venetians divide Greek territory. 1452: Defeat Byzantine Empire by Ottoman Empire: 1453-1821. 1821-’29: Greek War of Independence from Ottomans. ’12-’13: First Balkan War: Greece wins Epirus, Macedonia, Crete and North Aegean Islands from Ottomans / Second Balkan War: Greece wins Thrace from Bulgaria. 1821 onwards: Modern Times. 1917: Start WWI, Greece with Allies. ’19-’22: Greco-Turkish War (Greek failed invasion of Smyrna). ’24: Monarchy abolished, Greek republic. ’35: Monarchy restored. ’36: General Metaxas starts right-winged dictatorship as PM. ’40: Start WWII, Greece initially neutral – Mussolini attacks Greece from Albania, but is repelled. ’41: Nazi Germany - Resistance by communists and royalists. ’44: Collaboration with UK to repel Nazis. ’46-’49: Greek Civil War between US/UK-backed governmental Hellenic Army and communist SU/Bulgaria/Albania/Yugoslavia-backed Democratic Army of Greece (1st won).’52: Parliamentary kingdom. Joins NATO. ’67: Military coup. ’73: Republic again. Coup. ’74: Coup against president of Cyprus. Turkish invasion / occupation Northern Cyprus. ’75: Parliamentary republic. ’81: Joins EU. ’91: Former Yugoslavian Republic of Macedonia declares independence. Greek objects to name and flag due to territorial claims of Greek province Macedonia. ’96: Tension with Turkey over Aegean islet. ’99: Earthquake Athens kills dozens. 2002: Euro replaces drachma. ’04: Athens hosts Olympic Games. Formal warning EC: Greece falsified budget deficit data in run-up to eurozone. ’08: Greece blocks Macedonia’s bid to join NATO over unresolved name-dispute. ’09-‘15: Debt crisis – massive debt caused by Greece. Long series of EU + Eurozone rescue bailouts and loans (hundreds of billions of euros) and debt-cuts in exchange for austerity and spending cuts programs, continuously accompanied by mass protests. ’13: Highest unemployment rate EU (26.8% - ’14: 28%). ’18: Agreement with Macedonia after 27-year-long name dispute (Macedonia vs. North Macedonia).
Greece Facts
- Capital: Athens
- Language: Greek
- Population: ± 10.72mln (Athens: ± 3.17 mln)
- Sq km: ± 131,957 (Athens: ± 38.96)
- Currency: Euro (€)
- Electricity Outlet: C and F / 230V / 50Hz. Check here!
- Country Code Phone: +30
- Emergency Phone: 112 (general), 166 (ambulance), 199 (fire), 100 (police), 171 (tourist police)
- Visa: Check out the visa requirements here.
- Vaccinations: Covid
- Climate Volos: Dry-Summer Subtropical (Csa)
- High season: June-September.
Short History Recap
3000-1400BC: Cycladic / Early Bronze Age – Cyclades settle in Asia Minor. 2100-1500BC: Minoan culture. 1400BC: Minoan centres destroyed by natural elements and abandoned. 1400-750BC: Mycenaean / Dorian Period – Mycenaeans from Peloponnese rise to prominence. 1150BC: Dorians conquer large areas of Peloponnese. 776BC: First Olympic Games. 750-550BC: Archaic Period – City-states Athens / Sparta / Thebes / Corinth compete for supremacy. 550BC: Sparta forms Peloponnesian League, rivalry with Athens. 500-338BC: Classical Period – Persia’s King Darius attempts to conquer Greece, but is defeated by Athenian army at Marathon. 481-479BC: Darius’ son Xerxes invades – Spartan king Leonidas (small army) finally falls at Battle of Thermopylae. Athens captured, but sinks Persian fleet off Salamis in surprise attack. 431-404BC: Peloponnesian Wars. Sparta controls most of Greece. 338BC: Philip II of Macedonia defeats Athens/Thebes at Battle of Chaeronea and unites all Greek cities except of Sparta. 338BC-395AD: Hellenistic / Roman Period – Philip II assassinated. His son, Alexander the Great, develops Greece into imperial power with Macedonia at governmental centre. 323BC: Diadochi divide empire after Alexander’s death. Centres of power shift to Middle East / Egypt. 320-275BC: Rome emerges as major power. 146BC: Greece province of Roman Empire. 295-1453AD Byzantine Period – Roman Empire divided in East (Byzantine) and West. 1204: Crusaders attack Constantinople. Franks / Venetians divide Greek territory. 1452: Defeat Byzantine Empire by Ottoman Empire: 1453-1821. 1821-’29: Greek War of Independence from Ottomans. ’12-’13: First Balkan War: Greece wins Epirus, Macedonia, Crete and North Aegean Islands from Ottomans / Second Balkan War: Greece wins Thrace from Bulgaria. 1821 onwards: Modern Times. 1917: Start WWI, Greece with Allies. ’19-’22: Greco-Turkish War (Greek failed invasion of Smyrna). ’24: Monarchy abolished, Greek republic. ’35: Monarchy restored. ’36: General Metaxas starts right-winged dictatorship as PM. ’40: Start WWII, Greece initially neutral – Mussolini attacks Greece from Albania, but is repelled. ’41: Nazi Germany - Resistance by communists and royalists. ’44: Collaboration with UK to repel Nazis. ’46-’49: Greek Civil War between US/UK-backed governmental Hellenic Army and communist SU/Bulgaria/Albania/Yugoslavia-backed Democratic Army of Greece (1st won).’52: Parliamentary kingdom. Joins NATO. ’67: Military coup. ’73: Republic again. Coup. ’74: Coup against president of Cyprus. Turkish invasion / occupation Northern Cyprus. ’75: Parliamentary republic. ’81: Joins EU. ’91: Former Yugoslavian Republic of Macedonia declares independence. Greek objects to name and flag due to territorial claims of Greek province Macedonia. ’96: Tension with Turkey over Aegean islet. ’99: Earthquake Athens kills dozens. 2002: Euro replaces drachma. ’04: Athens hosts Olympic Games. Formal warning EC: Greece falsified budget deficit data in run-up to eurozone. ’08: Greece blocks Macedonia’s bid to join NATO over unresolved name-dispute. ’09-‘15: Debt crisis – massive debt caused by Greece. Long series of EU + Eurozone rescue bailouts and loans (hundreds of billions of euros) and debt-cuts in exchange for austerity and spending cuts programs, continuously accompanied by mass protests. ’13: Highest unemployment rate EU (26.8% - ’14: 28%). ’18: Agreement with Macedonia after 27-year-long name dispute (Macedonia vs. North Macedonia).
FREE Recommended Sights / Activities*
PAID Recommended Sights / Activities*
* A relatively complete overview of all sights and activities can be found on TripAdvisor… these lists include the ones I personally recommend. You can order your Lonely Planet here.
Evening Entertainment
Local Festivals
More festivals here.
- Sights: 1st sun/month Nov-Mar; last weekend Sep; 06/03; 18/04; 18/05; 05/06; 28/10: All Archaeological Sites free (incl. Acropolis & Archaeological Museum) – 50% off on all other days in Nov-Mar; Change of Guards.
- Museums: Benaki Museum (free thu); National Historical and Ethnological Museum (free sun); Stavros Niarchos Foundation Cultural Center; Museum of Greek Folk Instruments; Hellenic Children’s Museum; Museum of Modern Greek Culture; G. Gounaropoulos Museum; Athens University History Museum; Philatelic and Postal Museum; Museum of the History of Greek Costumes; Koraï 4; Digital Plato Museum; Underground Museums; Street Art in Psirri, Keramikos, Metaxourgeio, Exarchia and Gazi.
- Hikes / Nature: Mount Ymittos; Pnyx Hill; Lycabettus Hill; Philopappou Hill; Areopagus Hill; Strefi Hill; Diomedes Botanical Garden; National Garden of Athens;
- Other: Daytrip to Marathon; Daytrip to Cape Sounion.
PAID Recommended Sights / Activities*
- Museums: Industrial Gas Museum.
- Other: Tip-based Athens Free Walking Tour.
* A relatively complete overview of all sights and activities can be found on TripAdvisor… these lists include the ones I personally recommend. You can order your Lonely Planet here.
Evening Entertainment
- Nightlife Areas: Plaka; Psirri; Thiseio; Exarchia; Gazi; Koukaki; Metaxourgeio; Keramikos; Patsion; Kolonaki.
- Theatres: National Theatre of Greece; Herod Atticus Odeon; Pallas Theatre; Fimonoi Theatre; Olympia Theatre; Piraeus 117 Academy; Kiptheatro Papagou; Kolion Theatre; Theatro Chytirio; Theatro Technis Karolos Koun – Frinichou; Gazi Music Hall; Theater Ilisia; Alhambra Art Theatre; Tzeni Karezi; Theater Katerina Vassilakou; Topos Allou Theatre & more.
Local Festivals
- Athens Photo Festival
- Athens Digital Arts Festival – May.
- Rockwave Festival – June.
- Ejekt Festival – June-July.
- Summer Nostos Festival – July-August.
- August Full Moon Festival – August.
- MIR Festival – October.
- Art-Athina – October-November.
More festivals here.
Budget Bites
Sleep Cheap
- Supermarkets: Bazaar; Sklavenitis; Kleopatra; Masoutis; OK Market.
- Farmers Markets: Monday: Kifissia, Nea Smyrni. Tuesday: Paleo Psychiko, Keramikos, Ambelokipi. Wednesday: Piraeus, Halandri. Thursday: Glyfada. Friday: Koukaki, Kolonaki, Pangrati. Saturday: Exarchia, Ambelokipi, Neos Kosmos.
- Local Dishes: Pita Gyros (meat); Souvlaki (meat skewer); Moussaka (oven dish with minced meat / eggplant / potatoes / bechamel sauce); Pastitsio (macaroni lasagne); Kefthetes (meat balls); Loutza (cured pork tenderloin); Yemista (stuffed tomatoes); Papoutsakia (stuffed eggplants); Stifado (beef stew); Giouvetsi (beef stew with pasta); Kleftiko / Paidakia (lamb); Brizola (pork / beef steak); Mydia (mussels); Sofrito (slow-cooked veal); Xiphias (sword fish); Antzougi (anchovis); Spetzofai (sausage-wine dish); Fasolatha (white bean soup); Dolmadakia (rice-stuffed grape leaves); Koulouri (bread rings); Spanakopita (stuffed pastry); Loukoumades (fried honey-covered dough balls); Greek Salad / Choriatiki; Tzatziki (garlic-yoghurt dip); Taramasalata (fish roe dip); Tirokafteri (cheese dip); Tiropita (cheese pie); Olives; Greek Yoghurt (with honey and walnuts).
- The Veg Situation: Going vegan is rather complicated in Greece outside of the bigger cities, but in the capital there are of course plenty of options. Many local dishes are ‘accidentally’ vegetarian… most however containing cheese, eggs and/or honey. Local veg dishes (some descriptions above): Fasolatha; Vegetarian Moussaka; Yemista; Papoutsakia; Dolmadakia; Koulouri; Spanakopita with Cheese/Spinach; Loukoumades; Greek Salad; Tzatziki; Tirokafteri; Tiropita; Olives; Greek Yoghurt; Kolokitho Keftedes (courgette balls); Tomato Keftedes (tomato fritters); Fava (split peas dip); Melitzanosalata (eggplant dip); Tirokroketes (fried cheese balls); Saganaki (fried cheese); Daklos (crackers with feta and capers); Horta (leafy boiled greens); Briam (roasted vegetables); Gigantes (giant beans); Pissara (feta, sun-dried tomato and pine nuts salad); Salata Koliandrou (collard salad); Pitaroudia (chickpea dumpling); Fasolakia (green beans); Spanakoriza (spinach-rice stew). Local veg-friendly restaurants can be found here.
- National Drink: Tsipouro (spirit), Ouzo (anise spirit) and delicious Greek wine. The standard coffee served in Greece is ice coffee. If you want hot coffee, specify this in your order.
Sleep Cheap
- Hostels / Hotels: are definitely not cheap in Greece. However, if you’re with 2 people or more, a private room or apartment is generally cheaper than a dormitory bed in a hostel. I personally found the best deals on Booking.com, which is generally cheaper than Air BnB listings here. Booking.com also has the biggest selection, is transparent about the final price and had an efficient search engine tailored to your specific needs. If you use it often enough, generous Genius-discounts are applied. Agoda is often not transparent about prices, adding a lot of additional costs in the last booking-step. Opodo is a better alternative. Keep in mind that most municipalities charge a city tax. Writer’s Choice: I stayed in many different places in Athens, including at a housesit, Couchsurfing address, the Zorbas Hostel and Bedway Hostel
- Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost (unless you put a third-world country as homebase), but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate review explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored). Athens has an active Couchsurf community. Since Couchsurfing started charging under the flag of covid, the network became much less active… as such, join Couchsurfing forums on Facebook to get more reactions.
- Housesitting: is an amazing exchange allowing you to stay short- or long-term in somebody’s house, while looking after their house and pets. There are many different websites, most of them paid… but once you landed a sit, the subscription fee pays itself back quickly. I personally landed a housesit in Athens via the main housesitting hostel Trusted Housesitters.
- Wild Camping: is rather complicated in a big city like Athens, as there aren’t too many places to “hide.” Also know that this is illegal in Greece and if caught, you have to go to trial (I personally met someone who had to go through this unpleasant experience). I wouldn’t recommend it here.
Mama Said
Transport
Next?
* As described in the “History Recap,” this name is very controversial and still a topic of political debate. Macedonia is the name of a northern Greek province, North Macedonia the official name of the country. However, if you use “North” before the country-name, you profoundly insult the local population of (North) Macedonia. On the other hand, if you are in Greece and use the word “Macedonia” to refer to the country, you will not make any friends. The solution is to refer to the country as “North Macedonia” while in Greece, and change to “Macedonia” while crossing the border.
- Safety: European tourist destinations are generally safe, but use your common sense like everywhere. Don’t walk alone in remote areas after sunset, don’t take valuables along and follow your instinct when entering certain neighbourhoods further away from the centre.
- Tap Water: is drinkable.
- English is widely spoken, even by the older generation.
- Boycott zoos such as Attica Zoological Park, where animals are held in captivity out of their natural habitat.
- The best credit/debit card for traveling is Wise or Revolut, as they use the live conversion rates without any extra fees. Wise also has the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. Keep in mind that all Greek ATMs charge a fee, the amount always indicated before completing the transaction. Payment by card is generally accepted everywhere.
- Simcard: The cheapest prepaid deals can be found on the street of Athens, generally around the major metro/train stations. Whereas in the shop they might charge €20 per month for limited calls and data, on the street the same simcard but with unlimited data is only €10. Don’t ask me how, just enjoy it.
Transport
- Walking: Athens is the biggest city of Greece. Within the separate areas, everything is within walking distance, but to go from one district to the other alternative transport is required.
- Cycling: Athens has quite a busy traffic situation and drivers don’t always pay attention to cyclists. If you’re very confident on a bicycle, you can explore Athens by bike. There is a bike-share systems, such as AthensBikes, which was however (temporarily?) suspended due to covid.
- City Buses / Tram / Metro: Athens has it all! The fastest and most convenient way to get around is by metro, consisting of 3 lines spreading out to all suburbs of the city. It runs from 5AM to midnight and you can buy a ticket at the vending machines on the stations. The standard ticket is valid for 90 minutes (on all modes of public transport) and people often leave their still usable ones on top of the scanning machines. Line 1 is overground. There’s also a suburban railway from Piraeus to the airport (tickets about 8x more expensive), and connecting Athens to Halkida, Kiato and Corinth from 4:30AM to 11PM. Buses and trolleybuses serve entire Athens from 5AM to midnight, check all routes here. Airport buses operate 24hrs, leaving from Syntagma Square, Piraeus Port and the Intercity Bus Terminal Kifissos. There’s a tram service from Syntagma to coastal destinations Faliro and Voula. Day passes and 5-day passes are available (excl. airport services). Both Moovit and Google Maps work as public transport navigation apps here, unlike in most of the Balkan area.
- Taxi / Uber: Taxis are available and can be ordered or hailed down on the street. This is not a cheap option, so make sure to negotiate the price ahead or ask for the meter to be turned on.
- Intercity Buses: Ktel Kifisou Bust Terminal is Athens’main bus station with the most departures. It’s located at Athens 104 42. The main bus line is Ktel and their tickets are much cheaper when bought online (on the day itself you still have to go to their stand and let them print out the tickets). Due to constantly changing departure times, I recommend to always verify the times at the bus station and buy the tickets in advance as they can sell out. Student tickets available (different discounts for foreign and local students).
- Train: Athens’ main railway station is called Larissa Station (not to be confused with the town of Larissa slightly more northwards, which also has an important train station). Trains in Greece are served by Trainose and this is a rather expensive mode of transport, with tickets prone to sell out. Pre-buy the tickets a few days in advance or book online. Student tickets available. Omio is a useful website for booking discount deals online in a wide variety of countries. For train passes check Eurail.
- Car Rental: is remarkably cheap. In off-season I found a rental car of €4-5 per day (excl. insurance) via Kayak, as long as the pick-up and drop-off point is Athens Airport. The pick-up rates from downtown Athens are much more expensive.
- Airport: Athens International Airport (ATH). Travel between downtown Athens and the airport can either be done by train or shuttle bus (more expensive tickets than the standard ones). Anno 2022, the train was €9 and ran only one an hour, whereas the airport buses X93, X95, X96 and X97 were €6 and leaving all the time. Be aware that prices might inflate over time.
- Hitchhiking: is relatively safe in Greece, but it’s not very common. It’s pretty complicated to get in and out of the bigger cities, so depending on where you’re going, you’ll have to take public transport well out of town. More info here.
Next?
- National Destinations Close By: Marathon, Peloponnese, Euboea Peninsula, Saronic Islands, Cyclades Islands, Arachova, Delphi, Mount Parnassus, Volos.
- International Destinations Close By: Albania, (North) Macedonia*, Bulgaria, Turkey, Italy.
* As described in the “History Recap,” this name is very controversial and still a topic of political debate. Macedonia is the name of a northern Greek province, North Macedonia the official name of the country. However, if you use “North” before the country-name, you profoundly insult the local population of (North) Macedonia. On the other hand, if you are in Greece and use the word “Macedonia” to refer to the country, you will not make any friends. The solution is to refer to the country as “North Macedonia” while in Greece, and change to “Macedonia” while crossing the border.
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