Osorno / Puerto Varas
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My new adventure started on the highway of Bariloche. The highway that Hernan passed with his truck during his 3-day-strike from Punta Arenas to Santiago. He could use some company to chat the long hours away, so of course he could take take me directly to Osorno, hop on!
The Rutas Argentinas
It wasn’t the first time I went to Chile… in fact, I went to northern Chile on this very same trip, with the side-note that trip has been going on for almost 2,5 years now. Where last time I explored the part from the capital and up, this time I intended to take in a bit of the lush and fresh south. Back then I didn’t speak one word of Spanish, but apparently now I did it didn’t seem to make any difference in this country. The good man spoke faster than my mouth could move, cutting off every world in the middle and uttering the words in an accent simulating a state of upmost surprise. I simply decided to friendly interrupt with a confirming nod or “si” every now and then to pretend I could follow his odd-sounding rap.
Welcome to Chile.
It wasn’t the first time I went to Chile… in fact, I went to northern Chile on this very same trip, with the side-note that trip has been going on for almost 2,5 years now. Where last time I explored the part from the capital and up, this time I intended to take in a bit of the lush and fresh south. Back then I didn’t speak one word of Spanish, but apparently now I did it didn’t seem to make any difference in this country. The good man spoke faster than my mouth could move, cutting off every world in the middle and uttering the words in an accent simulating a state of upmost surprise. I simply decided to friendly interrupt with a confirming nod or “si” every now and then to pretend I could follow his odd-sounding rap.
Welcome to Chile.
That’s what the signs said after the breathtakingly beautiful Rutas Argentinas brought us passed the border straight through the Andes. I watched the pastel colored snowy mountain ranges transform into something fertile and green, feeling the humidity clinging to my skin. The Cordilleras del Andes form a natural gate separating two climates, presenting the best of both right next to each other like candies behind a shop-window. I joined Hernan for a lunch at the smoky roadcafe where fleshy women where stirring in soup pots behind red-white-chequered curtains, the lower side of their arms swinging in the opposite direction of their movements. After subsequently being presented a steak (“Sorry, I’ m vegan”), a chicken breast (“Sorry, I’ m vegan”), a seafood platter (“Sorry, I’ m vegan”) and an egg salad (“Sorry, that’s also not vegan”), I settled with a portion of dry sopaipillas, chunks of bread deep-fried to shit… because YOLO, or something, let’s die fat and happy.
After I dropped off my bag at Couchsurfer Ivan’s comfortable down-town apartment, the city of Osorno was all mine to explore.
After I dropped off my bag at Couchsurfer Ivan’s comfortable down-town apartment, the city of Osorno was all mine to explore.
Some compatriots from Puerto Montt had told me this place is the worst Chile has to offer, but I beg to disagree. I started my standard museum quest in the Cooperation Osorno building, where a photo exhibition of the indigenous Mapuche communities brought the local history to life. From there I strolled through the unusual Cathedral, the ground-breaking design even mildly reminding me of Gaudi’s Sagrada Familia of Barcelona (ok, that might be a bit too much credit, but it’s certainly a must-visit for even the most fanatic atheist). Also the free Museo Historico Municipal was a positive surprise. From paleontology to an extensive overview of all existing indigenous societies, after a visit to this intimate museum you’ll be backed up with all local knowledge you could have possibly asked for (if you understand Spanish, that is). Especially the preserved corpse of an indigenous girl and the photo report of the 1960 earthquake caught my full attention.
After this it was hard to be impressed with the relatively amateurish Museo Surazo, exposing the artwork of the local painters club, some more gifted than others (to put it nicely). To finish the full cycle I also checked the Museo Interactivo off the list, which was fun in a certain way, however primitive. The museum-cat was the true eyecatcher, hitch-hiking along on my shoulders while I tried to blow life-size soapbubbles with some iron construction.
Yes, Osorno: I like it. It might not be the most beautiful city I have ever seen or have the tightest highlight-density, but there’s certainly sufficient amusement for a day or two.
Puerto Varas
Also, it’s a great location for daytrips to the many places surrounding this centrally located town like little treasures. For example, the 1-hour bus drive to Puerto Varas is so cheap that it’s hardly worth the hitch-hike in the rain… although that didn’t stop me, why paying for transport if it’s free? This little harbor town is a magnet for mainly national tourists and is therefore designed accordingly. But if you look passed the countless colorful souvenir shops, there’s an alluring bay inviting for a relaxing discovery. Within 10 minutes you can ascend the Cerro Philipi, a wooded viewpoint asking for some inevitable selfies.
Puerto Varas
Also, it’s a great location for daytrips to the many places surrounding this centrally located town like little treasures. For example, the 1-hour bus drive to Puerto Varas is so cheap that it’s hardly worth the hitch-hike in the rain… although that didn’t stop me, why paying for transport if it’s free? This little harbor town is a magnet for mainly national tourists and is therefore designed accordingly. But if you look passed the countless colorful souvenir shops, there’s an alluring bay inviting for a relaxing discovery. Within 10 minutes you can ascend the Cerro Philipi, a wooded viewpoint asking for some inevitable selfies.
On top of that, the cute little center is loaded with an endless supply of exquisite coffee shops, as a welcome variation of the Nescafe-misery in the truckers cafés. I might have overdone it a little bit, as after three hours I found myself basically running towards Museo Pablo Fiery, trembling from caffeine. Oh and just so you know, this museum alone is worth the trip to Puerto Varas… imagine everything that pops into your head when hearing the word ‘museum’ and then drop it to let it shatter in a million pieces: This place is absolutely unique and nothing you have ever seen before, an indispensable gem constructed by the eccentric artist Pablo who personally welcomes you in his residence resurrected from scraps. Which is cooler than it sounds.
Next day: Entre Lagos, as I had read some exciting travel blog about all the splendors of this scenic place in between the lakes. I’m not sure if we were talking about the same Entre Lagos though, as besides a very friendly cat there was literally nothing to see or do. Maybe I was looking passed it somehow… so I entered an (empty) hotel to ask what’s up. Nothing was up and never was, the disillusioned owner confirmed… Right. So I hugged my new cat-friend goodbye and signaled from a distance to another truck, which immediately stopped to give me a ride to Aguas Calientes hidden in the heart of the Puyehue National Park.
From the exit where he left me I hiked 4km up in a state of irrational intense happiness… Ladies and gentleman, I present to you Puyehue, an essential highlight of Central Chile. We are talking about a level of beauty that’s impossible to capture in words. Without even putting my thumb up all five cars passing by on this delightfully remote road stopped asking if I fancied a ride up, but I really needed some time to take this all in. This is what nature in its purest form looks like. Alice in Wonderland meets Jungle Book.
Once in Aguas Calientes, what indeed means ‘hot waters’, I gathered the necessary information from a helpful ranger in the visitor center and kicked off my little exploration on Sendero El Recodo.
The ‘hot springs’
Of course, you can pay 6 dollars and jump in the heated artificial hot springs, but make sure you don’t miss out on these walking opportunities leading you through absolute natural splendor. Like a walking ayahuasca-trip you get simply soaked up in nature, wrappings its endless green glamour all around you. Instantly you envision yourself in a mystical forest, specks of mist circling around the damp tree trunks and humid damp flaring up from the ground (which I observed in the squat-position while watering the plants a bit more). I sat down, overwhelmed, anticipating on the elves and goblins that would show up eventually if you sit still long enough. This place held me captive until the night fell, forcing my departure… facilitated by my thumbs subsequently enticing a Chilean family with a chatty grandma, a farmer and a guy with a daughter called Stephanie.
Of course, you can pay 6 dollars and jump in the heated artificial hot springs, but make sure you don’t miss out on these walking opportunities leading you through absolute natural splendor. Like a walking ayahuasca-trip you get simply soaked up in nature, wrappings its endless green glamour all around you. Instantly you envision yourself in a mystical forest, specks of mist circling around the damp tree trunks and humid damp flaring up from the ground (which I observed in the squat-position while watering the plants a bit more). I sat down, overwhelmed, anticipating on the elves and goblins that would show up eventually if you sit still long enough. This place held me captive until the night fell, forcing my departure… facilitated by my thumbs subsequently enticing a Chilean family with a chatty grandma, a farmer and a guy with a daughter called Stephanie.
I was HAPPY. I was back in Chile.
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- Back in Osorno... in jail!
- Not sure where to travel to next? Go to he Chile Page for some inspiration!
- Check out Budget Bucket List's FAVORITE HIKING DESTINATIONS worldwide!