Cappadocia
Not in the story-mood? Scroll down for the Quick Budget Fact Overview: an itemized information summary of Cappadocia!
I travel an excessive amount and have seen so many places in the world… but for some reason it keeps feeling rather unsettling to pay a visit to the planet’s most well-known places. You feel like you've already been there because you've seen it so often, but you haven't. You're suddenly inside that photo you’ve seen a million times. The concretization of a media-imposed dream.
It was my 8th time in Turkey, but finally I decided I should give in and give tourist-ridden Cappadocia a go. Yeah, that hot-air-balloon-place… full of cringy influencers in rented satin gala-dresses forcing their poor boyfriends into 2-hour long sunrise photoshoots, while they ‘spontaneously’ hop along the cliffs dramatically reaching out to the balloon-dotted-horizon. Be that unfortunately as it may, my initial fear was swiftly replaced with joy. There are in fact ways to beat these toe-crawling crowds. How? Keep reading.
It was my 8th time in Turkey, but finally I decided I should give in and give tourist-ridden Cappadocia a go. Yeah, that hot-air-balloon-place… full of cringy influencers in rented satin gala-dresses forcing their poor boyfriends into 2-hour long sunrise photoshoots, while they ‘spontaneously’ hop along the cliffs dramatically reaching out to the balloon-dotted-horizon. Be that unfortunately as it may, my initial fear was swiftly replaced with joy. There are in fact ways to beat these toe-crawling crowds. How? Keep reading.
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Logistics
First things first: How do you get there to begin with? If you have more money than time, a plane is potentially the fastest way. There are two airports in the region, the Nevsehir Kapadokya Airport (NAV) and the Kayseri Erkilet Airport (ASR). If you have more time than money, grab a bus. I’m more of a wing-it-and-whatever-happens-kinda-traveler, but based on my experience with traveling Turkey in high season, I in this case strongly recommend to book as soon as you know your travel dates. Buses sell out quickly and prices rise as the date comes nearer. Prices to Cappadocia are more expensive than to any other Turkish destination (from Kars it was the same price as to get to Istanbul, which is twice the distance). The website Obilet is the official Turkish site giving insight to the ‘real’ prices, but unfortunately they don’t accept foreign credit cards so you’ll have to make some Turkish friends to buy it for you, or buy the ticket at Busbud or the bus station. Another option I often warm-heartedly promote on Budget Bucket List is of course hitchhiking… but the truth forces me to warn solo female travelers against doing so in Turkey, unless you don’t mind being continuously asked how much you charge for sexual services (once again, speaking from experience). Turkish people are a true bliss, but their Islamic culture unfortunately doesn’t have much understanding of independent women going out there in the world without a father, brother or husband holding their hand.
And where should I stay, as Cappadocia is not a city but the area name? Göreme is the main town, creeping up and steadily expanding from the valley, with the iconic pinnacles that gave this region fame all around you. As most attractions are at a walking distance from here, this makes for a great base of exploration. An even more scenic option would be Uchisar, located on the hill overlooking the entire valley. Nevsehir is much cheaper, but this is a big city far away from the Cappadocian dream (you need to take a dolmus/minibus from the Ali B Mosque) and without the emblematic views you want to wake up to. That doesn’t mean Göreme and Uchisar are overpriced: if you are not too picky, you can find hostels for 8 euro, even in high season, some inside of the cave-homes if you dig that full experience. Besides that, there is also a thriving Couchsurf-community and the place is just bristling with free wild camping spots (many marked on Maps.me).
Keep in mind that Booking.com doesn’t exist in Turkey and the local website, Odamax, is not working very well, so it is a bit of a pain in the butt to organize accommodation. I personally used Air BnB, even though I am not a huge fan of this once-quirky-and-cheap-now-boutique-and-pricey-booking-engine.
You won’t starve in Cappadocia either, as the place lives from tourism. Every building is either a tourist accommodation or a restaurant. However, if you want to save and self-cater, supermarkets are available: The Bim is basically the Lidl of Turkey, offering rock-bottom prices.
First things first: How do you get there to begin with? If you have more money than time, a plane is potentially the fastest way. There are two airports in the region, the Nevsehir Kapadokya Airport (NAV) and the Kayseri Erkilet Airport (ASR). If you have more time than money, grab a bus. I’m more of a wing-it-and-whatever-happens-kinda-traveler, but based on my experience with traveling Turkey in high season, I in this case strongly recommend to book as soon as you know your travel dates. Buses sell out quickly and prices rise as the date comes nearer. Prices to Cappadocia are more expensive than to any other Turkish destination (from Kars it was the same price as to get to Istanbul, which is twice the distance). The website Obilet is the official Turkish site giving insight to the ‘real’ prices, but unfortunately they don’t accept foreign credit cards so you’ll have to make some Turkish friends to buy it for you, or buy the ticket at Busbud or the bus station. Another option I often warm-heartedly promote on Budget Bucket List is of course hitchhiking… but the truth forces me to warn solo female travelers against doing so in Turkey, unless you don’t mind being continuously asked how much you charge for sexual services (once again, speaking from experience). Turkish people are a true bliss, but their Islamic culture unfortunately doesn’t have much understanding of independent women going out there in the world without a father, brother or husband holding their hand.
And where should I stay, as Cappadocia is not a city but the area name? Göreme is the main town, creeping up and steadily expanding from the valley, with the iconic pinnacles that gave this region fame all around you. As most attractions are at a walking distance from here, this makes for a great base of exploration. An even more scenic option would be Uchisar, located on the hill overlooking the entire valley. Nevsehir is much cheaper, but this is a big city far away from the Cappadocian dream (you need to take a dolmus/minibus from the Ali B Mosque) and without the emblematic views you want to wake up to. That doesn’t mean Göreme and Uchisar are overpriced: if you are not too picky, you can find hostels for 8 euro, even in high season, some inside of the cave-homes if you dig that full experience. Besides that, there is also a thriving Couchsurf-community and the place is just bristling with free wild camping spots (many marked on Maps.me).
Keep in mind that Booking.com doesn’t exist in Turkey and the local website, Odamax, is not working very well, so it is a bit of a pain in the butt to organize accommodation. I personally used Air BnB, even though I am not a huge fan of this once-quirky-and-cheap-now-boutique-and-pricey-booking-engine.
You won’t starve in Cappadocia either, as the place lives from tourism. Every building is either a tourist accommodation or a restaurant. However, if you want to save and self-cater, supermarkets are available: The Bim is basically the Lidl of Turkey, offering rock-bottom prices.
Photo by Miles Watson Photography
Sightseeing in Cappadocia
So, why we’re here? Balloons, right! Even though I was daft enough to visit this destination one bloody day after the yearly Balloon Festival had ended*, because I simply don’t want to spoil my own surprise by pre-reading into it… that doesn’t mean you cannot enjoy this spectacle every single morning. You just have to get up unreasonably early, depending on the time of year you intend to visit. The balloons go up just before sunrise, which means you have to hike your ass up on a sunrise viewing spot before that starts. Painful. Yet, the good news is that (in summer season) the day gets so unreasonably hot, that the only way to get some good hikes and sightseeing in, is right after the balloon parade has ended (they fly around for about an hour or so)… You’ll then have about 5 good hours left before the heat just slams all energy straight out of you (11AM’ish), which means it’s nap-time until 4-5PM, when the temperature finally just calmed the fuck down again. Another great thing of following this weird-rhythm-strategy? You’ll have Cappadocia, land of absolute blasting mass tourism, to yourself. It’s yours, the hiking trails are deserted on these fresh hours of the morning! Your private holiday getaway, while the old, the fat and the lazy are in their beds or waiting for their tour buses.
* Luckily, you won’t make that mistake: its July-Aug, google in advance, as dates vary yearly.
Sightseeing in Cappadocia
So, why we’re here? Balloons, right! Even though I was daft enough to visit this destination one bloody day after the yearly Balloon Festival had ended*, because I simply don’t want to spoil my own surprise by pre-reading into it… that doesn’t mean you cannot enjoy this spectacle every single morning. You just have to get up unreasonably early, depending on the time of year you intend to visit. The balloons go up just before sunrise, which means you have to hike your ass up on a sunrise viewing spot before that starts. Painful. Yet, the good news is that (in summer season) the day gets so unreasonably hot, that the only way to get some good hikes and sightseeing in, is right after the balloon parade has ended (they fly around for about an hour or so)… You’ll then have about 5 good hours left before the heat just slams all energy straight out of you (11AM’ish), which means it’s nap-time until 4-5PM, when the temperature finally just calmed the fuck down again. Another great thing of following this weird-rhythm-strategy? You’ll have Cappadocia, land of absolute blasting mass tourism, to yourself. It’s yours, the hiking trails are deserted on these fresh hours of the morning! Your private holiday getaway, while the old, the fat and the lazy are in their beds or waiting for their tour buses.
* Luckily, you won’t make that mistake: its July-Aug, google in advance, as dates vary yearly.
Balloon Viewpoints & Subsequent Hikes
So about, those balloon viewpoints. Let me list a couple of good ones for you! Please be reminded that all of these are at an easy walk from Göreme, even with a limited physical condition. You don’t need to throw money away on a tour or book a cab, and (god forbid) if you even think about renting one of those cadillacs or floppy dresses to make up for that model career you never had, I will not allow you to continue reading this blog. Click it away, be gone. You’ll ruin all these viewpoints for everyone else with your desperate need for likes, thumbs and external validation of complete strangers.
Did they leave? Okay good, here we go:
Love Valley
My favorite one of all is the naughty lil’ Love Valley. An appropriate name for a canyon stuffed with dick-shaped pinnacles sticking out of smooth, whipped-cream-like rocks. Obviously, the best views are achieved from the upper cliffs, from where you can see the balloons rise above it and at times graciously dip in between them (it is a landing area for the balloons). Try to avoid anything pinned on Maps.me, as that’s where the crowds and wannabe-influencers hang out. Explore the more desolate corners on the higher ridges, where you might have the place to yourself without compromising the tiniest bit on the views. In fact, this is the only spot where the balloons where all around and above us, to the point we had conversations with the lucky bastards in the basket.
Once the balloon-extravaganza is over, simply descend down into the valley for an interesting hiking route through the Land of the Dong. There are various beaten paths to follow, all slithering deeper into the valley. Loop back via the upper area for an alternative perspective as the sun slowly bleaches the landscape. We did a 20km return-trip here, but you can make it as long as your physical fitness desires.
So about, those balloon viewpoints. Let me list a couple of good ones for you! Please be reminded that all of these are at an easy walk from Göreme, even with a limited physical condition. You don’t need to throw money away on a tour or book a cab, and (god forbid) if you even think about renting one of those cadillacs or floppy dresses to make up for that model career you never had, I will not allow you to continue reading this blog. Click it away, be gone. You’ll ruin all these viewpoints for everyone else with your desperate need for likes, thumbs and external validation of complete strangers.
Did they leave? Okay good, here we go:
Love Valley
My favorite one of all is the naughty lil’ Love Valley. An appropriate name for a canyon stuffed with dick-shaped pinnacles sticking out of smooth, whipped-cream-like rocks. Obviously, the best views are achieved from the upper cliffs, from where you can see the balloons rise above it and at times graciously dip in between them (it is a landing area for the balloons). Try to avoid anything pinned on Maps.me, as that’s where the crowds and wannabe-influencers hang out. Explore the more desolate corners on the higher ridges, where you might have the place to yourself without compromising the tiniest bit on the views. In fact, this is the only spot where the balloons where all around and above us, to the point we had conversations with the lucky bastards in the basket.
Once the balloon-extravaganza is over, simply descend down into the valley for an interesting hiking route through the Land of the Dong. There are various beaten paths to follow, all slithering deeper into the valley. Loop back via the upper area for an alternative perspective as the sun slowly bleaches the landscape. We did a 20km return-trip here, but you can make it as long as your physical fitness desires.
Lovers Hill
Not to be confused with Love Valley, this is the hill closest to Göreme. It’s the whoops-I-almost-overslept-solution, being only a 5 minute ascend from the town’s center… and as such, jammed with tourists. This spot allows you to photograph the balloons hovering over the city, if that’s the angle you’re aiming for. They charge an entrance if you walk up the road from the city, but you can literally climb up from every other side of the hill free of charge. You’ll be shouted at when eating your own food.
After-balloon hikes mainly lead you into the hill’s backcountry. Less scenic when it comes to the sought-after spires (it’s more flattened out), but definitely intriguing due to its moonscape atmosphere.
Red Valley & Rose Valley (used interchangeably, but indicating the same area)
Quite a popular hangout both during sunrise and sunset, and for rather obvious reasons. The entire gorge just bathes in a pink hue once the first glimpses of sunrise shed their magical light. Try to not go all the way up to where the parking lot is, as you’ll just ruin it for yourself (plus you’ll have to pay to get in via this way)… stay on one of the ridges in the inner valley. It’s a lousy 30 minutes walking from Göreme, you’ve got this.
Once the balloons are out of sight, the fun is just about to start. Watch the tourist mobs vanish while this place turns into your private red-pink playground. Balance over the ridges, descend into the shady cracks and stare over the smooth shapes reflecting those natural colors in all its glory. There is not one best way to walk: trails crawl into all directions. Follow your gut, discover what is behind that next curve, and before you know it you’ve got about 15-25k behind those hiking boots. A return-loop can be made via the Pigeon Valley, scenically stretching out between Göreme and Uchisar.
That said: Pigeon Valley is not a recommended balloon-hunting site, unless you packed a tele-lens. The balloons are likely to be far away and can only be seen at a considerable distance.
Hotel-owned roof terraces to view the balloons, include: Sultan Cave Suites, Mithra Cave Hotel, Koza Cave Hotel, Museum Hotel and frankly almost any hotel slightly higher up the cliffs. Most of these either charge a fee or you have to be a guest.
Keep in mind that the direction the balloons are flying, or if they are allowed to fly at all depends on the wind, and it changes daily. The same goes for the take-off spots. There is a wide variety of take-off spots in and around Göreme and it is impossible to know in advance which one it’s going to be. Verify the latest information with your hotel or accommodation reception or call a travel agent specialised in balloon flights to avoid any disappointments.
* The official website indicating if the balloons take off or not can be found here (hit the translate function, as the English version of the website is not functional)
** Find all hikes I did and recorded here.
Not to be confused with Love Valley, this is the hill closest to Göreme. It’s the whoops-I-almost-overslept-solution, being only a 5 minute ascend from the town’s center… and as such, jammed with tourists. This spot allows you to photograph the balloons hovering over the city, if that’s the angle you’re aiming for. They charge an entrance if you walk up the road from the city, but you can literally climb up from every other side of the hill free of charge. You’ll be shouted at when eating your own food.
After-balloon hikes mainly lead you into the hill’s backcountry. Less scenic when it comes to the sought-after spires (it’s more flattened out), but definitely intriguing due to its moonscape atmosphere.
Red Valley & Rose Valley (used interchangeably, but indicating the same area)
Quite a popular hangout both during sunrise and sunset, and for rather obvious reasons. The entire gorge just bathes in a pink hue once the first glimpses of sunrise shed their magical light. Try to not go all the way up to where the parking lot is, as you’ll just ruin it for yourself (plus you’ll have to pay to get in via this way)… stay on one of the ridges in the inner valley. It’s a lousy 30 minutes walking from Göreme, you’ve got this.
Once the balloons are out of sight, the fun is just about to start. Watch the tourist mobs vanish while this place turns into your private red-pink playground. Balance over the ridges, descend into the shady cracks and stare over the smooth shapes reflecting those natural colors in all its glory. There is not one best way to walk: trails crawl into all directions. Follow your gut, discover what is behind that next curve, and before you know it you’ve got about 15-25k behind those hiking boots. A return-loop can be made via the Pigeon Valley, scenically stretching out between Göreme and Uchisar.
That said: Pigeon Valley is not a recommended balloon-hunting site, unless you packed a tele-lens. The balloons are likely to be far away and can only be seen at a considerable distance.
Hotel-owned roof terraces to view the balloons, include: Sultan Cave Suites, Mithra Cave Hotel, Koza Cave Hotel, Museum Hotel and frankly almost any hotel slightly higher up the cliffs. Most of these either charge a fee or you have to be a guest.
Keep in mind that the direction the balloons are flying, or if they are allowed to fly at all depends on the wind, and it changes daily. The same goes for the take-off spots. There is a wide variety of take-off spots in and around Göreme and it is impossible to know in advance which one it’s going to be. Verify the latest information with your hotel or accommodation reception or call a travel agent specialised in balloon flights to avoid any disappointments.
* The official website indicating if the balloons take off or not can be found here (hit the translate function, as the English version of the website is not functional)
** Find all hikes I did and recorded here.
The Actual Balloon Flight
You’re reading a blog called Budget Bucket List, so obviously I listed the freebies first. It is indeed possible to have a memorable time in Cappadocia without taking a balloon ride. But something will be gnawing at you, slowly but persistently. While you’re there, but more so while the time passes and you keep being haunted with a never-lessened stream of Cappadocia social media updates of laughing people in hot air balloons just living their best fucking life while you decided to keep a tight grip on the purse for once. Trust me, I’ve been there all too often. I have admired the view from the Patagonian coast onto the peninsula of Antarctica, deciding to turn around and come back when I’ve won the lottery… even though that would’ve been the last continent I had yet to set foot on. I have shrugged my shoulders walking passed the entrance of the frigging Wonder of The World Chichen Itza, like an IDIOT, because I’ve had seen “enough temples for a while.” I have googled flights to the Galapagos, while already in bloody Ecuador, and closed my laptop as the prices didn’t fit my extremely-low-monthly-budget. It still bothers me, while years have gone by, and it will only stop once I go back to do it still. Yes, those things cost money, and by default more than I’d like to spend (if I had a say in it I’d prefer everything in the whole wide world to be free, but that’s not reality), but I should have just let it go for once. I almost made this mistake again in world famous Cappadocia, if my hero of a travel companion hadn’t decided that this would be the perfect surprise for my upcoming birthday.
There’s no way around it. This is why you’re here:
You’re reading a blog called Budget Bucket List, so obviously I listed the freebies first. It is indeed possible to have a memorable time in Cappadocia without taking a balloon ride. But something will be gnawing at you, slowly but persistently. While you’re there, but more so while the time passes and you keep being haunted with a never-lessened stream of Cappadocia social media updates of laughing people in hot air balloons just living their best fucking life while you decided to keep a tight grip on the purse for once. Trust me, I’ve been there all too often. I have admired the view from the Patagonian coast onto the peninsula of Antarctica, deciding to turn around and come back when I’ve won the lottery… even though that would’ve been the last continent I had yet to set foot on. I have shrugged my shoulders walking passed the entrance of the frigging Wonder of The World Chichen Itza, like an IDIOT, because I’ve had seen “enough temples for a while.” I have googled flights to the Galapagos, while already in bloody Ecuador, and closed my laptop as the prices didn’t fit my extremely-low-monthly-budget. It still bothers me, while years have gone by, and it will only stop once I go back to do it still. Yes, those things cost money, and by default more than I’d like to spend (if I had a say in it I’d prefer everything in the whole wide world to be free, but that’s not reality), but I should have just let it go for once. I almost made this mistake again in world famous Cappadocia, if my hero of a travel companion hadn’t decided that this would be the perfect surprise for my upcoming birthday.
There’s no way around it. This is why you’re here:
LEGENDARY
Other sights
Monk’s Valley (a.k.a. Passabag Valley) & Fairy Chimneys
Not necessarily a prime balloon-spotting point, but mainly interesting due to the homes a bunch of 4th century hermitage monks carved out of the pinnacles. The shelters can still be visited today, if you pay the entrance fee. Otherwise, don’t worry, you’ll see these phallus-houses all around the Love Valley and Goreme.
Underground Cave Towns
There are several underground cities to choose from… and with several I mean around 200 different ones. Derinkuyu is the biggest, deepest and the most famous one. Kaymakli has the same amount of levels as Derinkuyu (8), but only 4 are open to the public. Other, less visited ones in the region include Ozkonak, Mazi, Tatlarin and Ozluce. For convenience of public transport, I visited Derinkuyu, easily reached by a dolmus (minibus) from neighbouring Nevsehir. Whereas most cities were carved out the soft tuff rock during the 8th and 7th century BC as a means of protecting inhabitants from foreign invasions, Derinkuyu was built by the Byzantine Christians to shield themselves from Muslim Arabs during the wars of 780 and 1180 AD. It’s madness to realize this underground structure could house up to 20,000 individuals, together with all their livestock and food.
Take a bus from Goreme to Nevsehir and get out at the dolmus bus stop (ask driver). From here you can find other dolmuses in the direction of both Derinkuyu and Kaymakli, which is written on the signs in the front window. Entrance fee required.
Other sights
Monk’s Valley (a.k.a. Passabag Valley) & Fairy Chimneys
Not necessarily a prime balloon-spotting point, but mainly interesting due to the homes a bunch of 4th century hermitage monks carved out of the pinnacles. The shelters can still be visited today, if you pay the entrance fee. Otherwise, don’t worry, you’ll see these phallus-houses all around the Love Valley and Goreme.
Underground Cave Towns
There are several underground cities to choose from… and with several I mean around 200 different ones. Derinkuyu is the biggest, deepest and the most famous one. Kaymakli has the same amount of levels as Derinkuyu (8), but only 4 are open to the public. Other, less visited ones in the region include Ozkonak, Mazi, Tatlarin and Ozluce. For convenience of public transport, I visited Derinkuyu, easily reached by a dolmus (minibus) from neighbouring Nevsehir. Whereas most cities were carved out the soft tuff rock during the 8th and 7th century BC as a means of protecting inhabitants from foreign invasions, Derinkuyu was built by the Byzantine Christians to shield themselves from Muslim Arabs during the wars of 780 and 1180 AD. It’s madness to realize this underground structure could house up to 20,000 individuals, together with all their livestock and food.
Take a bus from Goreme to Nevsehir and get out at the dolmus bus stop (ask driver). From here you can find other dolmuses in the direction of both Derinkuyu and Kaymakli, which is written on the signs in the front window. Entrance fee required.
Goreme Open Air Museum
I’m just listing this one to let you know it’s there, but I will then immediately tell you to skip it. This is what prime tourist-milking looks like. It’s the most expensive sight in town, and once you’re in you’ll be requested to pay extra separate fees for the actual interesting attractions. You’ll find the exact same carved out churches and houses you will find everywhere else in the area for free, but then clogged with a hardly-moving line of people pushing themselves in on narrow stairs. To make it worse, the ancient paintings inside are vandalised without the slightest attempt to restore it… Christian heritage ruined inside an Islamic country, until they realised they could put a gate around it and hold their hand up for money. And what’s with the plastering of the sights “for protection,” making it look entirely fake and frankly ruining any view that’s left. How this one got listed as #1 on Trip Advisor either makes me question the value of that website or just humanity as whole.
Uchisar Castle
One of the prominent sights in town, literally with its 1350 meters above sea level (and 95 meters above Goreme), is the Uçhisar Castle. Cappadocian-style dug out of a volcanic rock, miraculously shaped by wind, rain and erosion, this is where nature and culture meet. The castle is the place where the social life has taken its first forms in the city. In this respect, the castle is the centre of the city. Are you ready for the 275 steps to reach the peak? Entrance fee required.
Ihlara Valley
The advertised “green tour” you’ll bump into when in Cappadocia is mainly focused on the Ihlara Valley, lushly created from the volcanic ashes of Mount Hasan (combined with a visit to Derinkuyu). Besides flourishing nature, you can appreciate the dug-out houses and churches created by the Byzantine monks who settled in the valley during the 7th century BC. To avoid being stuck with slow and short-distance hikers of a tour group, I recommend to organize your own transport (or hitchhike) to explore this interesting side-destination on your own power and in its full 15-k-length.
You can grab a bus from Goreme to Aksaray and transfer to one headed for the Ihlara Valley. You’ll have to either turn around the same route, loop back via the top, or hitchhike back from the other end
I’m just listing this one to let you know it’s there, but I will then immediately tell you to skip it. This is what prime tourist-milking looks like. It’s the most expensive sight in town, and once you’re in you’ll be requested to pay extra separate fees for the actual interesting attractions. You’ll find the exact same carved out churches and houses you will find everywhere else in the area for free, but then clogged with a hardly-moving line of people pushing themselves in on narrow stairs. To make it worse, the ancient paintings inside are vandalised without the slightest attempt to restore it… Christian heritage ruined inside an Islamic country, until they realised they could put a gate around it and hold their hand up for money. And what’s with the plastering of the sights “for protection,” making it look entirely fake and frankly ruining any view that’s left. How this one got listed as #1 on Trip Advisor either makes me question the value of that website or just humanity as whole.
Uchisar Castle
One of the prominent sights in town, literally with its 1350 meters above sea level (and 95 meters above Goreme), is the Uçhisar Castle. Cappadocian-style dug out of a volcanic rock, miraculously shaped by wind, rain and erosion, this is where nature and culture meet. The castle is the place where the social life has taken its first forms in the city. In this respect, the castle is the centre of the city. Are you ready for the 275 steps to reach the peak? Entrance fee required.
Ihlara Valley
The advertised “green tour” you’ll bump into when in Cappadocia is mainly focused on the Ihlara Valley, lushly created from the volcanic ashes of Mount Hasan (combined with a visit to Derinkuyu). Besides flourishing nature, you can appreciate the dug-out houses and churches created by the Byzantine monks who settled in the valley during the 7th century BC. To avoid being stuck with slow and short-distance hikers of a tour group, I recommend to organize your own transport (or hitchhike) to explore this interesting side-destination on your own power and in its full 15-k-length.
You can grab a bus from Goreme to Aksaray and transfer to one headed for the Ihlara Valley. You’ll have to either turn around the same route, loop back via the top, or hitchhike back from the other end
Quick Budget Fact Overview
Turkey Facts
Short History Recap
Byzantine Empire --> Ottoman Empire: 1683: Ottoman advance into Europe halted by Battle of Vienna. 1908: Young Turk Revolution --> constitutional rule (degenerates into military dictatorship during WWI - Ottoman Empire alliance with Germany / Austria-Hungary). ’15-’16: Turkey commits Armenian genocide, killing an estimated 1.5mln. It is still denied by Turkey. ‘18-’22: Partition of defeated Ottoman Empire --> triumph of Turkish National Movement in war of independence against foreign occupation and rule of Sultan. National Movement in War of Independence against foreign occupation and rule of Sultan. ‘23: Turkey Republic, president: Kemal Ataturk. ‘28: Secular, Islam removed from constitution. ‘45: Neutral most of WWII - Turkey declares war on Germany/Japan. Joins UN. ‘50: First free elections: Democratic Party. ‘52: Joins NATO (abandoning Ataturk’s neutralist policy). ‘60: Armed coup. ‘63: Association agreement EEC. ‘74: Turkish troops invade Cyprus: US trade embargo (lifted in ‘78). ‘80: Military coup. Martial law. ‘84: Kurdish War: Kurdistan Worker’s Party launches separatist guerrilla war. ‘90: Turkey allows US-led coalition against Iraq: air strikes from Turkish bases. ‘92: 20,000 Turkish troops enter Kurdish safe havens in Iraq in anti-PKK operation. ‘93: Ciller 1st female prime minister. ‘95: EU customs union. 2002: Family equality men-women. Death sentence abolished. ‘03: Istanbul attacks. ‘11: Syrian refugees. ‘15: Against Islamic State (suicide bomb attacks). ‘16: Kurdistan Freedom Hawks bomb attacks in Ankara. ‘16/’17: More Islamic State killing attacks.
Free Activities
Paid Activities
Turkey Facts
- Capital: Ankara
- Language: Turkish
- Population: ± 2000 (Göreme)
- Sq km: ± 100 (Göreme)
- Currency: Turkish Lira (₺ - TL)
- Country code: +90 (474)
- Visa: Many nationalities need an e-visa, info on exceptions and application here.
- Emergency phone: 112 (medical), 110 (fire), 155 (police), 158 (coastguard)
- Recommended Vaccinations: Hep-A & Hep-B / potentially Rabies & Tetanus
- High Season: Summer
- Climate: Warm-Summer Humid Continental (Dfb)
Short History Recap
Byzantine Empire --> Ottoman Empire: 1683: Ottoman advance into Europe halted by Battle of Vienna. 1908: Young Turk Revolution --> constitutional rule (degenerates into military dictatorship during WWI - Ottoman Empire alliance with Germany / Austria-Hungary). ’15-’16: Turkey commits Armenian genocide, killing an estimated 1.5mln. It is still denied by Turkey. ‘18-’22: Partition of defeated Ottoman Empire --> triumph of Turkish National Movement in war of independence against foreign occupation and rule of Sultan. National Movement in War of Independence against foreign occupation and rule of Sultan. ‘23: Turkey Republic, president: Kemal Ataturk. ‘28: Secular, Islam removed from constitution. ‘45: Neutral most of WWII - Turkey declares war on Germany/Japan. Joins UN. ‘50: First free elections: Democratic Party. ‘52: Joins NATO (abandoning Ataturk’s neutralist policy). ‘60: Armed coup. ‘63: Association agreement EEC. ‘74: Turkish troops invade Cyprus: US trade embargo (lifted in ‘78). ‘80: Military coup. Martial law. ‘84: Kurdish War: Kurdistan Worker’s Party launches separatist guerrilla war. ‘90: Turkey allows US-led coalition against Iraq: air strikes from Turkish bases. ‘92: 20,000 Turkish troops enter Kurdish safe havens in Iraq in anti-PKK operation. ‘93: Ciller 1st female prime minister. ‘95: EU customs union. 2002: Family equality men-women. Death sentence abolished. ‘03: Istanbul attacks. ‘11: Syrian refugees. ‘15: Against Islamic State (suicide bomb attacks). ‘16: Kurdistan Freedom Hawks bomb attacks in Ankara. ‘16/’17: More Islamic State killing attacks.
Free Activities
- Nature: Monk’s Valley (a.k.a. Passabag Valley) & Fairy Chimneys, Ihlara Valley (green tour, but can be done without tour), Pigeon Valley.
- Balloon Viewpoints & Subsequent Hikes: Love Valley, Lovers Hill, Red Valley & Rose Valley (used interchangeably, but indicating the same area).
Paid Activities
- Activity: Balloon flight.
- Sights: Underground Cave Towns (Derinkuyu; Kaymakli; Ozkonak; Mazi; Tatlarin; Ozluce).
- Museums: Goreme Open Air Museum (not recommended), Uchisar Castle.
Photo by Miles Watson Photography
Evening Entertainment
Local Festivals
Budget Bites
Evening Entertainment
- Nightlife Areas: Low-key bars and restaurants in downtown tourist areas.
Local Festivals
- Cappodocia Cherry Festival – June
- Cappadox Festival - June
- Balloon Fest – July
- Cappadocia Tent Festival – July
- International Cappadocia World Dance Festival – August
- Ürgüp Vineyard Festivities - September
Budget Bites
- Supermarkets: Bim, Ilhan.
- Markets: Saturday – Ürgüp; Sunday + Monday – Nevşehir; Wednesday – Göreme; Fridays – Avanos.
- Local Dishes: Sis Kebab (meat skewer), Iskender Kebab (kebab with rice / tomato sauce), Durum (wrap), Çig Köfte (spicy sticky bulgur), Köfte (meat), Sarma / Dolma (rice in wine leaves), Kebab (meat in wrap), Baklava (sweet pastries), Muhammara (pepper-and-walnut-dip), Gozleme (salty pancakes), Pilav (rice), Kumpir (stuffed potato), Simit (sesame bagel), Islak Burgers (wet hamburgers), Pide (Turkish pizza), Mezze (fingerfood), Mercimek Corbasi (lentil soup), Borek (stuffed crispy bread), Su Boregi (borek-lasagne-crossover), Menemen (scrambled egg), Manti (kind-of-ravioli), Lahmacun (crispy bread topped with meat/salad), Balik Ekmek (fish sandwich), Lokum (Turkish Delight).
- The Veg Situation: Being vegan is pretty easy in this part of the world. Many local dishes are vegan on their own, such as: Çig Köfte, Sarma / Dolma, Potato or Spinach Gozleme, Simit, Kumpir (without meat and mayonnaise), Kisir, Bakla (bean appetizer), Ispanak Kavurma (roasted spinach), Patlican Ezmesi (eggplant puree), Acile Ezme and Fava (bean puree). Besides Çig Köfte food take-outs, there are many vegan/ vegetarian restaurants: check them on Happy Cow.
- National Drink: Raki… and non-alcoholic: Turkish Coffee, Ayran, Boza, Tea, Salgam Suyu.
Photo by Miles Watson Photography
Sleep Cheap
Mama Said
Sleep Cheap
- Hostels / Hotels: are relatively cheap in Turkey, but much pricier in their main tourist destination Cappadocia. Keep in mind that Booking.com doesn’t exist in Turkey and the local website, Odamax, is not working very well, so it is a bit of a pain in the butt to organize accommodation. I personally used Air BnB, even though I am not a huge fan of this once-quirky-and-cheap-now-boutique-and-pricey-booking-engine. Writer’s pick: I stayed in a downtown Air BnB property which was comfortable enough to allow for rest in this strange Cappadocia rhythm (getting up incredibly early and sleeping during the day).
- Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost (unless you put a third-world country as homebase), but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate review explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored).
- Housesitting: is an amazing exchange allowing you to stay short- or long-term in somebody’s house, while looking after their house and pets. There are many different websites, most of them paid… but once you landed a sit, the subscription fee is pays itself back quickly. The main housesitting site is Trusted Housesitters.
- Wild Camping: is technically forbidden, but not enforced. Especially in the landscapes of Cappadocia, wild camping is very common.
Mama Said
- Safety: Turkey is pretty safe, and assaults are uncommon. But like everywhere, use common sense, pickpocketing happens in busy areas and on public transport.
- Drugs are illegal, and sentences are high.
- Even though Turkey is Islamic, Turkey is quite liberal and all types of dress are common. Be respectful of course, but don’t worry about covering up unless it is in a mosque.
- Haggling is common and expected.
- The ‘okay’-sign means ‘homosexual’. Just saying.
- Tap Water: is drinkable, but however contains lots of chlorine. You don’t often see locals drinking the tap water, but during my 7 visits I never I always did and never had any issues.
- The best credit/debit card for traveling is Wise, as they use the live conversion rates with minimal exchange fees. Wise also has the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. You can simply create a Forint-wallet and all expenses in Hungary will be paid directly out of that wallet. Revolut is comparable, but they have higher exchange fees in the weekend and less wallet-options. Also, you can only wire money to Revolut in the currency you opened the account with, whereas Wise has IBAN’s from a wide variety of currencies, so you don’t have to pay a double exchange fee.
- Simcard: The tourist simcards at the airport are, as always, the most expensive packages. Instead, go to a phone shop in the city, preferably accompanied by a local, to make sure they give you a local package. Vodafone and Turkcell are the main brands. Prices vary from store to store, so shopping around is recommended if you have some time on your hands.
Photo by Miles Watson Photography
Transport
Next?
Transport
- Walking: is an easy option in the towns of Cappadocia. To get from one town to another, alternative transport is recommended.
- Cycling: is a possible way to get around. Be aware that the summers are incredibly dry and hot. Traffic doesn’t pay much attention to cyclists and roads aren’t great for bicycles.
- City Buses / Tram / Metro: Buses form the main and only public transport in Cappadocia. Every town has a main central bus stop from where all transport departs, and up to date schedules can be acquired on the spot. Affordable and straightforward! Privately owned dolmuses (minibuses) operate the outer areas. Payment is in cash to the driver.
- Taxi / Uber: Taxis are available, but notoriously overcharge in this touristy destination.
- Intercity Buses: Buses sell out quickly and prices rise as the date comes nearer. Prices to Cappadocia are more expensive than to any other Turkish destination. The website Obilet is the official Turkish site giving insight to the ‘real’ prices, but unfortunately they don’t accept foreign credit cards so you’ll have to make some Turkish friends to buy it for you, or buy the ticket at Busbud or the bus station.
- Train: Cappadocia is not served by train.
- Car rental: Car rental is generally not very cheap in this area. You are more likely to get affordable deals from the bigger airports. Be aware that the minimum rental age is 21, with at least 2 years of driving experience.
- Airport: Nevsehir Kapadokya Airport (NAV), Kayseri Erkilet Airport (ASR).
- Hitchhiking: Hitch-hiking is not too common nor safe in Turkey (speaking from experience). It’s better to use apps like Blablacar to get a cheap(er) ride.
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