Mount Korab
Not in the story-mood? Scroll down for the Quick Budget Fact Overview: an itemized information summary of Mnt. Korab & Radomirë! ↓
I can get pretty neurotic about certain travel traditions. At some point along the years-long journey, I started climbing every highest peak of every country I visited, and from that point on I considered it my duty. No one asked me to, nothing would happen if I let it slide for once… except of me feeling like I have to return one day to do it, in order to regain inner peace... so I might as well get it over with straight away. When it comes to Albania, that means you’re doing yourself a huge favour. Climbing Mount Korab (2764m) was the indisputable highlight of my month-long trip through Albania… a country where every day blossomed into a celebration on its own.
With Mount Korab, you’re double-winning. Not only will you be summiting the highest peak of Albania, but also the highest one of Macedonia (it’s even pictured in their national emblem). The rugged peak is part of the 555.5 km2 Korab-Koritnik Nature Park, which is renowned for its outstanding alpine terrain encompassing glacial lakes, canyons, caves, rivers and dense coniferous forests. Local fauna includes the brown bear, grey wolf, Balkan lynx and weasel, as well as some precious birdlife. Korab, which is both the name of its highest peak and the entire mountain range it belongs to (and the Slavic Sea God it’s named after), includes a long series of remarkably high summits compared to the rest of the Balkan. The entire mountain range stretches 40km all the way from Kosovo towards the southern Desha Mountains, along the Albanian-Macedonian border and Dibër Valley. And you are going to be a tiny element of all this grandness.
With Mount Korab, you’re double-winning. Not only will you be summiting the highest peak of Albania, but also the highest one of Macedonia (it’s even pictured in their national emblem). The rugged peak is part of the 555.5 km2 Korab-Koritnik Nature Park, which is renowned for its outstanding alpine terrain encompassing glacial lakes, canyons, caves, rivers and dense coniferous forests. Local fauna includes the brown bear, grey wolf, Balkan lynx and weasel, as well as some precious birdlife. Korab, which is both the name of its highest peak and the entire mountain range it belongs to (and the Slavic Sea God it’s named after), includes a long series of remarkably high summits compared to the rest of the Balkan. The entire mountain range stretches 40km all the way from Kosovo towards the southern Desha Mountains, along the Albanian-Macedonian border and Dibër Valley. And you are going to be a tiny element of all this grandness.
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Base
As the peak is located right on the border, you can climb Mount Korab both from the Albanian and Macedonian side. Honestly, Albania is your best bet, as on the Macedonian side there isn’t any village or mountain hut nearby where you can spend the night before and after: You will have to set up camp at the Strezimir Watch Tower in the Mavrovo National Park. In Albania, however, you can stay in Radomirë, which has several accommodation options.* Besides that, this small village is an experience on its own: It undeniably breathes the spirit of true Albanian countryside… Wooden rickety sheds, branch-loaded donkeys, and men smoking a cig while riding a horse sideways. Keep in mind that there are no supermarkets or ATM’s here, so it’s recommended to arrange your cash-outs and groceries before you leave either Kukës if you travel southwards, or Peshkopi when heading northwards.
* I stayed in Hotel Radomira, which charges €10 p.p.p.n. anno 2021/2022. The rooms are small but comfortable, and the extremely friendly owners helped us any way they could and let us use the kitchen. You can call +355693582090 (the brother of the owner) to make a reservation in English.
As the peak is located right on the border, you can climb Mount Korab both from the Albanian and Macedonian side. Honestly, Albania is your best bet, as on the Macedonian side there isn’t any village or mountain hut nearby where you can spend the night before and after: You will have to set up camp at the Strezimir Watch Tower in the Mavrovo National Park. In Albania, however, you can stay in Radomirë, which has several accommodation options.* Besides that, this small village is an experience on its own: It undeniably breathes the spirit of true Albanian countryside… Wooden rickety sheds, branch-loaded donkeys, and men smoking a cig while riding a horse sideways. Keep in mind that there are no supermarkets or ATM’s here, so it’s recommended to arrange your cash-outs and groceries before you leave either Kukës if you travel southwards, or Peshkopi when heading northwards.
* I stayed in Hotel Radomira, which charges €10 p.p.p.n. anno 2021/2022. The rooms are small but comfortable, and the extremely friendly owners helped us any way they could and let us use the kitchen. You can call +355693582090 (the brother of the owner) to make a reservation in English.
The infrastructure is very basic in certain parts of eastern Albania, and some stretches consist of bumpy dirt roads. At the time of writing there weren’t any fixed public transportation options, besides the very occasional minibus connecting Kukës, Peshkopi and the surrounding villages (time schedules non-existent). This narrows down your options to either hitchhiking or renting a car. For the sake of convenience and saving precious travel time, I strongly recommend renting a car, which is easy and budget-friendly in Albania. I have an amazing experience with Rental Shkodra, who provided me with a reliable vehicle and around the clock customer service during my entire roadtrip. With offices in Shkodër and pick-up possibilities Tirana, I could conveniently pick up the car upon entry via Montenegro, and drop it off in Tirana before heading out again.
All photos so far by Miles Watson Photography.
The Hike
Conveniently, the trail starts right next to Hotel Radomira. There is an alternative way, from slightly higher up in the village, next to where the short Black Lake trail starts (instead of left onto the Black Lake trail you continue straight). However, this trail-stretch is rather notorious for its aggressive dogs protecting the herds at all costs, so I won’t necessarily recommend it. The advisable trail starts off rather confusing in the very beginning, but becomes more obvious along the way. In any case of doubt, you can download the GPS-tracks in advance, as along the way phone signal can be limited. By any means, for this specific trail described within the hiking season you do not need a guide, even though the locals will try to convince you otherwise (that’s a source of income, so can we blame them?). If you attempt it to do it in winter or very snowy conditions, of course a guide will be recommended for safety reasons.
The Hike
Conveniently, the trail starts right next to Hotel Radomira. There is an alternative way, from slightly higher up in the village, next to where the short Black Lake trail starts (instead of left onto the Black Lake trail you continue straight). However, this trail-stretch is rather notorious for its aggressive dogs protecting the herds at all costs, so I won’t necessarily recommend it. The advisable trail starts off rather confusing in the very beginning, but becomes more obvious along the way. In any case of doubt, you can download the GPS-tracks in advance, as along the way phone signal can be limited. By any means, for this specific trail described within the hiking season you do not need a guide, even though the locals will try to convince you otherwise (that’s a source of income, so can we blame them?). If you attempt it to do it in winter or very snowy conditions, of course a guide will be recommended for safety reasons.
Click for GPS Coordinates! - return-trip!
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Click for GPS Coordinates! - 1-way!
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I walked the left (upper) trail, but you can also choose to walk the right (lower) trail... If I knew about this second route before heading out on the hike, I would have undoubtedly combined them into an exciting loop, as depicted on the map below (to be found next to Hotel Radimorë). You are now informed, so go for it:
Check this route for climbing Mount Korab from the Macedonian side. Officially you need a special permit from the Ministry of Internal Affairs of Macedonia to do this hike at the Macedonian border… but it’s not that someone sits on top of a mountain all day to check that sole hiker that passes by every few days. In Albania, none of such paperwork is required.
The Mount Korab Track is every hiker’s wet dream. Deep colors, dramatic peaks, invigorating micro-climates, panoramic vistas the entire way through and the correct balance between a fair challenge and accessibility. Plus, the feeling of standing on the highest top of the country adds to the overall exhilaration and satisfaction – you did it!
If you loved Theth National Park, boy, be prepared for what Mount Korab has in store for you… it even tops (figuratively and literally) the glory to be found in Albania’s most beloved nature getaway. The relative remoteness and absence of thick tourist crowds allow for an even more meaningful and undisturbed interaction with nature: It’s between you and the mountains now.
The Mount Korab Track is every hiker’s wet dream. Deep colors, dramatic peaks, invigorating micro-climates, panoramic vistas the entire way through and the correct balance between a fair challenge and accessibility. Plus, the feeling of standing on the highest top of the country adds to the overall exhilaration and satisfaction – you did it!
If you loved Theth National Park, boy, be prepared for what Mount Korab has in store for you… it even tops (figuratively and literally) the glory to be found in Albania’s most beloved nature getaway. The relative remoteness and absence of thick tourist crowds allow for an even more meaningful and undisturbed interaction with nature: It’s between you and the mountains now.
Mind you, you need to be rather fit to do this. You don’t have to be an extensively trained mountaineer, but don’t take the kids and gran along either. I recommend only starting this endeavour when you have a decent amount of experience with mountain hiking (steep conditions), navigation and have been working out lately. That said, you don’t need any special climbing tools either, besides a solid pair of hiking boots with good profile, hiking poles and quality clothing for potentially all weather conditions: heat/sweating, cold, wind, rain, snow. In the mountains you can experience 4 seasons in a day, and the weather at the foot of the mountain isn’t representative for what is happening up there.
My day-hike packing list (no camping):
* 112 is the national emergency number, 129 is specifically for the police, 127 for an ambulance and 128 for fire. Save these numbers in your phone. Also save the phone number of the accommodation where you are staying.
My day-hike packing list (no camping):
- Footwear: Goretex / Waterproof hiking boots – solid, good profile, ankle support, preferably with custom-made orthopaedic insoles.
- Clothing: It depends on the season obviously, but wear comfortable and breathable pants and a shirt - never cotton: this soaks up the sweat and keeps you wet, which causes friction and damage of the skin, or cools you down in frigid conditions. If needed, on top of that a wind- and waterproof layer, potentially with a warm layer in the middle (thermal underwear and a fleece top). Even in summer I recommend taking it along in case the weather turns on you (keep in mind you are at a 2764m height – temperatures change) or in case of emergency (imaging having to wait on evacuation when the night falls, you’ll want to stay warm). Wear hiking socks, preferably patted on the pressure points. Take an extra pair of dry socks in case you accidentally step in a puddle: Wet socks will ruin your day and cause blisters.
- Hiking poles for balance, speed and saving the knees.
- Bug spray (in spring-summer) and sunscreen (any season).
- A hat or scarf, to protect against cold or heat. A scarf is multi-functional, as you can use it for warmth around the throat in winter, as a water-soaked head cover in summer, or to cover sun-burnt patches from further burning.
- A working phone with GPS-tracks downloaded in advance, a working simcard for calling emergency services*, and an emergency-lamp. Bring a powerbank too. Advise someone about your route and expected return time incl. a buffer, so help can be arranged in case you have no phone signal. This is especially crucial if you are hiking solo.
- A small emergency kit including an emergency blanket, headlamp, reflecting bands, whistle, thick pen, lighter, matches, rope, compass, tweezers, some duct tape and of course a pocketknife.
- Small basic medical kit: Bandaids in varying shapes, special blister-bandaids, tape, talc powder for sweaty friction-parts (you know where), disinfectant tissues, some aspirin, loperamide / anti-diarrhoea, stomach medication, water-purifying tablets and vaseline. Tape in your toes and pressure points in advance to avoid blisters and broken skin: Prevention is better than cure. After taping, I rub the exposed skin of my feet in with vaseline, which works best for me against blisters after a lengthy process of trial and error.
- More food and water than you think you need. You’ll burn more calories on a hiking day than on a regular day, and you always have to be prepared for emergencies. Probably nothing will happen, but if it does, the mountains won’t have mercy on you. In case you run out: Water is available en-route in the lower mountain area where there are many streams, but this has to be purified due to the sheer amount of sheep and cattle being herded here (poop!).
* 112 is the national emergency number, 129 is specifically for the police, 127 for an ambulance and 128 for fire. Save these numbers in your phone. Also save the phone number of the accommodation where you are staying.
Vibes of Radomirë
The Surroundings
To be frank with you, nothing will beat the breathtaking surroundings of the Korab-Koritnik Nature Park in this eastern stretch of central Albania. That said, if you happen to drive along Kukës, you might want to get out for a quirky little stop. There’s not a whole lot to do here and tourism is definitely an unknown phenomenon (be prepared for some open-mouth staring), but the Ethnographic Museum and the Memorial Tower next door are worth a short visit… if only for the enthusiastic guide (I felt like we made his day by simply dropping in). When I checked this museum out, I witnessed a confronting photo exhibition covering the dire conditions of Kosovaran fugitives, housed in refugee camps here in Kukës during the Kosovo War. Another stop should be Hotel Amerika (where I spent the night): The peculiar design choices and unlikely color combinations are an attraction on its own. Taste is a personal matter, but we’ll all agree on this one.
The Surroundings
To be frank with you, nothing will beat the breathtaking surroundings of the Korab-Koritnik Nature Park in this eastern stretch of central Albania. That said, if you happen to drive along Kukës, you might want to get out for a quirky little stop. There’s not a whole lot to do here and tourism is definitely an unknown phenomenon (be prepared for some open-mouth staring), but the Ethnographic Museum and the Memorial Tower next door are worth a short visit… if only for the enthusiastic guide (I felt like we made his day by simply dropping in). When I checked this museum out, I witnessed a confronting photo exhibition covering the dire conditions of Kosovaran fugitives, housed in refugee camps here in Kukës during the Kosovo War. Another stop should be Hotel Amerika (where I spent the night): The peculiar design choices and unlikely color combinations are an attraction on its own. Taste is a personal matter, but we’ll all agree on this one.
Quick Budget Fact Overview
Albania Facts
History Recap
1000BC: Illyrians (Indo-European tribesmen). Country name from an Illyrian tribe: Arber / Albanoi. 165BC: Illyria under control Romans. 44BC: Caesar began building a colony at Butrint. 1-100: Christianity. 300-700: Goths, Huns, Avars, Serbs, Croats, and Bulgars successively invade Illyrian lands. 395: Division of Roman Empire à present-day Albania under Eastern Byzantine Empire. 700-800: Slav tribes settle. 1054: Roman and Orthodox Churches split (Orthodox don’t accept papal authority Rome). 1100-1200: Serbs occupied parts of Albania. 1204: Venice won control over most of Albania, but Byzantines regained control of south. 1385: Albanian ruler invited Ottoman forces to intervene against a rival in Battle of Savra. Start of slow expansion Ottoman Rule. 1403: Gjergj Kastrioti born: Albanian hero known as Skanderbeg who organized resistance to Ottomans in Krujë (repulsed 12 invasions) and kept Albania independent for 20+ years. ’68: Skanderbeg died and the Turks absorbed Albania into the Ottoman Empire. Conversion to Islam. 1614: Ottoman general Sulayman Pasha named Tehran (later Tirana) as the capital, after Iran’s. 1822: Albanian leader Ali Pasha was assassinated by Ottomans for promoting autonomy. ’61: First school known to use Albanian language opened in Shkodër. ‘78: Treaty of San Stefano / Treaty of Berlin: Ending Russo-Turkish War (Ottoman Empire lost numerous territories) & Divided Balkans among European powers. 1910: Mother Teresa born to an ethnic Albanian family in Skopje, Macedonia. ’12: First Balkan War (Balkan countries against Ottomans). Nov 28: Independence of Albania declared. ‘13: End First Balkan War with Treaty of London, beginning of Second Balkan War. Albania recognized as independent state: Demographics were ignored, half Albanian inhabited territories divided among Montenegro, Serbia and Greece. 1914-’18: WWI - Italian occupation. ’28: Albania kingdom under Zogu / parliament dissolved.’37: Italian occupation. ’39: WWII: Italian invasion and annexation (King Zogu fled to Greece). ‘41: Enver Hoxha becomes head of new Communist Party. ’43: German forces invade à ’44: withdraw after Communist resistance. Hoxha new leader: Brutal Stalinist rule for 40 years, mass murders, people being unable to enter or exit Albania. SU and China ties broken over ideologist ideas.’67: Limitation religious activity; Albania declared world's first atheist state. ’85: Hoxha dies. ’89: Communist rule in Eastern Europe collapses. ’90: Albanians granted right to travel abroad. Many flee. ’98: Kosovaran refugee exodus into Albania. ’03: First talks towards EU membership. ’09: Joins NATO and formally applies for EU membership --> rejected in ’10.
Albania Facts
- Capital: Tirana (Tiranë)
- Population: ± 2.8 mln
- Language: Albanian
- Sq km: ± 28.748
- Currency: Lek (ALL - L)
- Electricity Outlet: C /F /E, 230v, 50Hz (standard European – check here)
- Country Code Phone: +355
- Emergency Phone: 112 (general), 127 (ambulance), 128 (fire), 112 (police)
- Visa: Check out the visa requirements here
- Vaccinations: Covid / Hep-A / Hep-B / Routine Vaccines
- Climate Korab: Temperate Oceanic (Cfb)
- High season: Late spring – summer – early autumn (snowy in other seasons)
History Recap
1000BC: Illyrians (Indo-European tribesmen). Country name from an Illyrian tribe: Arber / Albanoi. 165BC: Illyria under control Romans. 44BC: Caesar began building a colony at Butrint. 1-100: Christianity. 300-700: Goths, Huns, Avars, Serbs, Croats, and Bulgars successively invade Illyrian lands. 395: Division of Roman Empire à present-day Albania under Eastern Byzantine Empire. 700-800: Slav tribes settle. 1054: Roman and Orthodox Churches split (Orthodox don’t accept papal authority Rome). 1100-1200: Serbs occupied parts of Albania. 1204: Venice won control over most of Albania, but Byzantines regained control of south. 1385: Albanian ruler invited Ottoman forces to intervene against a rival in Battle of Savra. Start of slow expansion Ottoman Rule. 1403: Gjergj Kastrioti born: Albanian hero known as Skanderbeg who organized resistance to Ottomans in Krujë (repulsed 12 invasions) and kept Albania independent for 20+ years. ’68: Skanderbeg died and the Turks absorbed Albania into the Ottoman Empire. Conversion to Islam. 1614: Ottoman general Sulayman Pasha named Tehran (later Tirana) as the capital, after Iran’s. 1822: Albanian leader Ali Pasha was assassinated by Ottomans for promoting autonomy. ’61: First school known to use Albanian language opened in Shkodër. ‘78: Treaty of San Stefano / Treaty of Berlin: Ending Russo-Turkish War (Ottoman Empire lost numerous territories) & Divided Balkans among European powers. 1910: Mother Teresa born to an ethnic Albanian family in Skopje, Macedonia. ’12: First Balkan War (Balkan countries against Ottomans). Nov 28: Independence of Albania declared. ‘13: End First Balkan War with Treaty of London, beginning of Second Balkan War. Albania recognized as independent state: Demographics were ignored, half Albanian inhabited territories divided among Montenegro, Serbia and Greece. 1914-’18: WWI - Italian occupation. ’28: Albania kingdom under Zogu / parliament dissolved.’37: Italian occupation. ’39: WWII: Italian invasion and annexation (King Zogu fled to Greece). ‘41: Enver Hoxha becomes head of new Communist Party. ’43: German forces invade à ’44: withdraw after Communist resistance. Hoxha new leader: Brutal Stalinist rule for 40 years, mass murders, people being unable to enter or exit Albania. SU and China ties broken over ideologist ideas.’67: Limitation religious activity; Albania declared world's first atheist state. ’85: Hoxha dies. ’89: Communist rule in Eastern Europe collapses. ’90: Albanians granted right to travel abroad. Many flee. ’98: Kosovaran refugee exodus into Albania. ’03: First talks towards EU membership. ’09: Joins NATO and formally applies for EU membership --> rejected in ’10.
FREE Recommended Sights / Activities
Budget Bites
- Hikes / Nature: It is entirely free to hike Mount Korab. The Korab-Koritnik Nature Park doesn’t charge an entry fee and no guide is needed.
Budget Bites
- Bigger Supermarkets: There are no supermarkets in Radomirë. Some local accommodations offer home-cooked meals, but check this in advance. Buy lunch and snack supplies in Kukës or Peshkopi.
- Markets: None.
- Local Dishes: Fërgesë (stew); Byrek (stuffed pastry); Tavë Kosi (baked lamb/chicken in yoghurt); Kackavall Në Furrë Me Domate (baked cheese with tomatoes); Speca Me Gjize (cheese-stuffed bell peppers); Speca te Mbushur me Oriz (stuffed bellpeppers with rice); Gjel Deti me Përshesh (baked turkey with bread mash); Peshk Dhe Pherime Ne Tave (fish and veg); Flija (baked crepes); Jani Me Fasule (white bean soup); Qofte (lamb meat balls); Tave Mishi (mixed grill); Sarme (cabbage rolls stuffed with rice and meat); Qifqi (fried rice balls); Pispili (cornbread with leek); Trilece (cake); Ashure (dessert); Petulla (fried dough).
- The Veg Situation: Going vegetarian is rather easy in Albania, but going vegan is next to impossible as milk / egg is in all that remains. There are luckily quite some local vegetarian dishes, some already explained above. Local veg dishes: Fërgesë Verorë (summer version); Byrek (choose cheese or spinach); Kackavall Në Furrë Me Domate; Speca Me Gjize; Speca te Mbushur me Oriz; Flija; Jani Me Fasule; Tave Mishi (vegan); Jufka (pasta cooked in butter); Ima lam Bajalldi (eggplant cooked in oven - vegan); Turli (vegetables stew - vegan); Tarator (cold soup); Salce Kosi (yoghurt sauce); Qifqi; Pispili; Trilece; Ashure; Petulla.
- National Drink: Rakia. Some local beer brands include Birra Korca, Birra Tirana and Birra Stela. Albania has wine production, but not as prominent as in Montenegro or Macedonia.
Sleep Cheap
Mama Said
- Hostels / Hotels: are relatively cheap in Albania compared to the rest of Europe, although more expensive than in other Balkan countries such as Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzegovina and Serbia. If you’re with 2 people or more, usually a private room is cheaper than a dormitory bed in a hostel. I personally found the best deals on Booking.com, which is generally cheaper than Air BnB listings here. If you use it often enough, Genius-discounts are applied. A nuisance in Albania is that once you booked, that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s actually confirmed: In my case, about half of the time the booking was immediately denied by the owner (or you’re not informed at all and show up in front of a closed door): Always call/email to confirm 100%. Payment generally happens on-site in cash. Writer’s choice: Hotel Radomira, right next to the trail start. Find contact info in the article.
Mama Said
- Safety: Don’t believe the gossip of people who never actually been here: Albania is safe! Crime rates are low and the level of hospitality is overwhelming. People go out of their way to make you feel welcome and assist you in any way they can. Of course, like everywhere in the world, use your common sense: Don’t walk alone in remote areas after sunset, don’t take valuables along etc.
- Tap Water: is drinkable.
- There are no ATM’s and supermarkets in Radomirë and paying by card isn’t generally accepted. Cash out and shop in Kukës or Peshkopi.
- Don’t speak Albanian? Your Italian language skills might help! Due to long, recent occupation periods by Italians (check the History Recap) many Albanians speak some basic Italian.
Transport
Next?
- Walking: Radomirë is very small and everything can be reached on foot.
- Cycling: Cycling is possible in this part of Albania. However, as this is not a common method of transport, don’t expect consideration of other traffic users: Be very careful!
- City Buses / Tram / Metro: Non-existent.
- Taxi / Uber: Non-existent.
- Intercity Buses: Non-existent.
- Train: Non-existent.
- Car Rental: A rental car is the best way to get around in Albania, especially on the remote eastern part. I recommend Rental Shkodra.
- Airport: Kukës International Airport Zayed (KFZ); Tirana International Airport (TIA).
- Hitchhiking: is relatively safe in Albania, and especially in the countryside you can see even locals doing it. However, it’s common practice to offer payment, so verify this before getting into the car to avoid awkward situations. Take into account that English is not widely spoken (Italian is!), so chit-chat might be complicated.
Next?
- National Destinations Close By: Kukës, Peshkopi, Pogradec, Korcë.
- International Destinations Close By: Macedonia, Kosovo, Montenegro, Greece, Italy.
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