San Miguel de Tucumán
For budget tips & compact place-specific travel info... Download my FREE Budget Fact Sheets. You're welcome.
| Download Steph's TUCUMAN Quick Budget Fact Sheet |
When you know you have about a day or 1,5 of hitchhiking ahead full of talking and verbally entertaining truckers you want to be sure you leave with a rested mind. Argentinean nightlife doesn’t help with that, I can tell ya. You see, unlike everywhere else in the world, or at least the 48 countries I have visited, you hit the clubs here at 2AM… the time you’d be normally balancing on the edge of the bar or dancing a bit more sexy (in your head) or retarded (to the outside world) than intended. Anywhere in between 7AM and midday will be the time you return homeward, or, if you have pure Argentinean blood pumping through your veins: take a shower and go straight to work… to repeat it all again the night that comes. In case that blood is pure European, it just entirely screws up your rhythm. Ergo: I found myself staring at the ceiling until 6AM, contemplating my life from childhood on, while my plan was to start my journey to Tucumán at 7AM. Yeah… that wasn’t gonna happen.
Next night I didn’t take half measurements: I dug up the sleeping pill my mum once gave me… at the beginning of my trip 2,5 years ago.
If you ever want to try drugs but just don’t have the funds, try expired medication.
Within 10 minutes I was transmitted into a creative bubble full of elves, stars and pink rivers in which I maniacally attacked the photo editing function on my phone as a way to translate my surrounding energy to some higher forces. When I woke up it was still going on, making the bus ride out of Buenos Aires to Peaje Lima a tad more adventurous than necessary… but I had to act normal, someone had to give me a ride across the entire northern part of the country still.
If you ever want to try drugs but just don’t have the funds, try expired medication.
Within 10 minutes I was transmitted into a creative bubble full of elves, stars and pink rivers in which I maniacally attacked the photo editing function on my phone as a way to translate my surrounding energy to some higher forces. When I woke up it was still going on, making the bus ride out of Buenos Aires to Peaje Lima a tad more adventurous than necessary… but I had to act normal, someone had to give me a ride across the entire northern part of the country still.
The piece of ‘art’ I fabricated during the sleeping-pills-high
That was easily arranged. Within five minutes a trucker nicknamed Toto picked me up. He was driving to Ceres, a tiny hole in between Rosario and San Miguel de Tucumán along the Ruta 34 scoffing the Tucumán province. I don’t know why people who pick up hitchhikers think it’s necessary, but many of them developed a habit to tell stories about solo backpackers being murdered or hassled for prostitution as a way of passing time. Enter Toto, who was convinced he even picked up the two French girls that disappeared in Salta recently. Well, as long as he didn’t have anything to do with that I’m good.
That was easily arranged. Within five minutes a trucker nicknamed Toto picked me up. He was driving to Ceres, a tiny hole in between Rosario and San Miguel de Tucumán along the Ruta 34 scoffing the Tucumán province. I don’t know why people who pick up hitchhikers think it’s necessary, but many of them developed a habit to tell stories about solo backpackers being murdered or hassled for prostitution as a way of passing time. Enter Toto, who was convinced he even picked up the two French girls that disappeared in Salta recently. Well, as long as he didn’t have anything to do with that I’m good.
The Ruta 34 certainly isn’t as nice as the Ruta 40 I did recently, but to dump all available trash out to underline its ugliness like Toto did wasn’t all that necessary either. A quite common Latin American habit I can’t empathize with and never understood.
And honestly, it isn’t that bad… you just get easily spoiled in Argentina.
However, besides that awkward tendency he was a sweet man that talked in a softened mumbling accent about the beauty of his children and grandchildren and was exited to share a lunch with me in the cushy Shell station full of truckers… where I was the only woman and everyone thought I was a prostitute. But well, I can live with that.
As the night already fell and a downpour streamed out of the clouded heaven I accepted a spot horizontally on two chairs in the truckers cabin, with the motor under my ass and the shift gear in between my legs.
Nothing I haven’t done before, but not quite the definition of comfortable so to say. After two hours of sleep I woke up with a body glowing of mosquito bites, which are besides being plain annoying a real threat as this region is swarming with dengue. If you ever wondered if vegans kill mosquitoes, let me tell you this: if I ever end up on Arabic soil again and happen to find that poltergeist in a lamp, my first wish (over world peace and being able to transfer any random object into peanut butter) would be that every mosquito within a five-meter radius around me dies a slow, agonizing death. I’m not entirely sure if those little hijos de putas (swearing in another language doesn’t count right?) can feel pain, but if so I hope they go through to the fires of hell and back.
However, besides that awkward tendency he was a sweet man that talked in a softened mumbling accent about the beauty of his children and grandchildren and was exited to share a lunch with me in the cushy Shell station full of truckers… where I was the only woman and everyone thought I was a prostitute. But well, I can live with that.
As the night already fell and a downpour streamed out of the clouded heaven I accepted a spot horizontally on two chairs in the truckers cabin, with the motor under my ass and the shift gear in between my legs.
Nothing I haven’t done before, but not quite the definition of comfortable so to say. After two hours of sleep I woke up with a body glowing of mosquito bites, which are besides being plain annoying a real threat as this region is swarming with dengue. If you ever wondered if vegans kill mosquitoes, let me tell you this: if I ever end up on Arabic soil again and happen to find that poltergeist in a lamp, my first wish (over world peace and being able to transfer any random object into peanut butter) would be that every mosquito within a five-meter radius around me dies a slow, agonizing death. I’m not entirely sure if those little hijos de putas (swearing in another language doesn’t count right?) can feel pain, but if so I hope they go through to the fires of hell and back.
While scratching and slamming my nails into my swollen skin I followed Toto’s friend to another truck, heading to Pozo Hondo next to Santiago de Estero. There I arranged my final ride to the centre of Tucumán in the vehicle of a missionary who had mastered the skill of reading out loud from a bible, slamming furiously on the book after every sentence, while maneuvering passed the potholes.
San Miguel de Tucumán. I made it. The city that every Argentinean that’s not from Tucumán seems to be scared of. Its slums, its pollution and traffic congestion are indeed maybe not the first signs of paradise, but you’d be surprised what you can find under its dirty disguise.
It always helps if there are people coloring in the grey colors of a city with their own beauty. In my case that was perfectly taken care of: Juan and Nico awaited me with doors and arms wide open in their downtown apartment right beside the giant Parque 9 de Julio. I immediately fell in love with these charming, warm-hearted men… which doesn’t make any sense, as they were in love with each other.
San Miguel de Tucumán. I made it. The city that every Argentinean that’s not from Tucumán seems to be scared of. Its slums, its pollution and traffic congestion are indeed maybe not the first signs of paradise, but you’d be surprised what you can find under its dirty disguise.
It always helps if there are people coloring in the grey colors of a city with their own beauty. In my case that was perfectly taken care of: Juan and Nico awaited me with doors and arms wide open in their downtown apartment right beside the giant Parque 9 de Julio. I immediately fell in love with these charming, warm-hearted men… which doesn’t make any sense, as they were in love with each other.
While they told me about their recent Christmas get-togethers [an event they had to celebrate separate because in a country where gay marriage is legalized since 2010 it’s apparently still not accepted to bring a same-sex partner home], I took note of their pet: a very sarcastic cat. I kid you not, that animal had the facial expression that made me feel like an absolute failure begging for his affection. On top of that, he had more clothes than me and, according to my hosts, was also gay.
While all my attempts to play with him, Chicho, were turned down I listened to Nico’s local sh-sh-accent (the shhh with lots of air and coming from under the tongue) and inhaled the delicious smells of the food Juan was preparing. That would happen a lot the days that would follow: foodies alert! Nothing better than eating the holidays away.
Besides that, there was obviously also still a city to be explored. I had read into it and the amounts of museums for sure sounded promising. What I however didn’t realize is that in high season also the museum employees are on vacation, so everything is closed… but what if visiting museums is my favorite holiday activity? The only option left was Museo Histórico, focused on the independence of Argentina in general and Tucumán more specifically. You can even enter the room were the independence of the United Provinces of South America was declared, so it’s definitely worth going.
The rest of the day I purposelessly jaunted around on basically all streets Tucumán has, being stared at with open mouth. I noticed its multiculturality was indeed limited to its neighbouring countries Bolivia, Paraguay and Peru, whose immigrants were doing the jobs Argentineans don’t want to do and being openly looked down on. The difference between the poor and well-off is striking. Another observation: panchuques. Pancakes with a hot dog sausage inside… Sometimes I feel really disconnected with the world I live in.
And what the hell is this? Argentina decided to bring Spice-girls-shoes back into fashion or what?
After I expressed my gratefulness with food again (that’s what I do), we talked away the night to wake up quite late for our planned excursion. That didn’t stop us from going though: Cadillal has a lake and a dam, which is apparently reason enough for a wave of national tourism.
After I expressed my gratefulness with food again (that’s what I do), we talked away the night to wake up quite late for our planned excursion. That didn’t stop us from going though: Cadillal has a lake and a dam, which is apparently reason enough for a wave of national tourism.
And how to handle a lake and a dam when your Argentinean? Drink mate next to it. Or slam glass bottles to pieces and dump all your trash in this precious public space so others can’t enjoy it anymore, that always seems the way to go here too. The face of self-punishment.
Yerba Buena, the posh well-taken-care-of neighbourhood just outside of town seemed a more clean and peaceful location for a mate-affair. As was Villa Nougues, the town where I hitch-hiked to the day after, as public transport to there is non-existent (not that I need a reason for hitch-hiking). Even though the humidity of Tucumáns soppy climate forced me to embrace the Edward-Scissorhands-look, my exploded hair making me frantically avoid mirrors, I got picked up in the blink of an eye. A lovely couple driving around their Canadian family-members touring through the country where there roots lay adopted me with the warm cloak that’s called instant friendship.
After the necessary drinks and endless chats they drove me back downtown where I had yet another wonderful encounter to fulfill. Couchsurfer Melina: a pretty vegetarian girl with a strong desire to travel, ready to leave her organized, civilized life behind… sounds familiar, doesn’t it? Right, we had a lot to talk about.
In vegan restaurant Muña Muña of course. Traveling vegan? No problem in Argentina!
And a lot of time to talk too, as because of an instant rainstorm and blizzard we couldn’t leave the restaurant. You see, cloudbursts are so intense here that within mere minutes the whole inner city gets instantly flooded, making it dangerous for vehicles as the streams are so strong they can drag entire cars away. It also didn’t seem the brightest idea to walk with bare feet into the water with lightening in the sky, unless you enjoy being electrocuted. So I waited until the thunderstorm waved over and swam back home.
And a lot of time to talk too, as because of an instant rainstorm and blizzard we couldn’t leave the restaurant. You see, cloudbursts are so intense here that within mere minutes the whole inner city gets instantly flooded, making it dangerous for vehicles as the streams are so strong they can drag entire cars away. It also didn’t seem the brightest idea to walk with bare feet into the water with lightening in the sky, unless you enjoy being electrocuted. So I waited until the thunderstorm waved over and swam back home.
We went to bed early to rise and shine freshly to climb a mountain with a friend of theirs. However, that friend appeared to have taken a pill overdose after her boyfriend dumped her. She balanced on the edge of death and hang around on the emergency sector now while here stomach was being pumped empty. Hm… I guess that might be a reason to cancel a hiking trip. As Nico and Juan instantly transformed into flesh-made moral support I had to ascend Sierra San Javier alone… in a blistering heat which even made wearing shoes a torture.
I waited a full hour for Tucumán’s irregular public transport (bus 100) that dropped me off a few kilometers from the entrance of some hiking paths (15 pesos entrance), where I had the choice to go for the easy or challenging route.
You guessed it, I opted for some self-inflicted self-castigation, being discouraged by everyone I ran into (including park rangers) saying it’s basically impossible. And you know what happens in my mind then: it HAS to be done.
So I gave them the look I learned from Juan & Nico’s cat and off I went, the amount of sweat flowing out of my body capable of quenching the thirst of an entire village. With my mouth constantly pressed to the end of the bottle and with an ice cold soaked scarf on my head I initiated the climb… which wasn’t that difficult at all. It’s just the body-drenching heat and the unstoppable nerve-wrecking high zoom of mosquitoes in my ear that made it unbearable.
You guessed it, I opted for some self-inflicted self-castigation, being discouraged by everyone I ran into (including park rangers) saying it’s basically impossible. And you know what happens in my mind then: it HAS to be done.
So I gave them the look I learned from Juan & Nico’s cat and off I went, the amount of sweat flowing out of my body capable of quenching the thirst of an entire village. With my mouth constantly pressed to the end of the bottle and with an ice cold soaked scarf on my head I initiated the climb… which wasn’t that difficult at all. It’s just the body-drenching heat and the unstoppable nerve-wrecking high zoom of mosquitoes in my ear that made it unbearable.
As you can see, I also converted to the Islam during this climb
I also didn’t enjoy being stung in the ass by some black wasp (or whatever the hell that freak of nature was) while peeing. But that said, how often you have the chance to run into a giant snake? I did, and I was absolutely blown away by its beauty. No photos, provoking possibly venomous animals by unexpected movements isn’t entirely my thing…
I also didn’t enjoy being stung in the ass by some black wasp (or whatever the hell that freak of nature was) while peeing. But that said, how often you have the chance to run into a giant snake? I did, and I was absolutely blown away by its beauty. No photos, provoking possibly venomous animals by unexpected movements isn’t entirely my thing…
When I finally made it up there the wind welcomed me as a hidden trophy, which I received so loudly you’d think I experienced an instant orgasm. I enjoyed the excellent views while the breeze wiped away my sweat, while trying to ignore the disturbance of the always present human littering. I realized that doing the hike the other way around would have been easier and would have prevented paying the entrance price, so I pass that info on to you now: go for it!
I expected this hike to end at the Jesus statue, but surpriiiiise: still 5km to go without shades! Grmpff, alright then, let’s go for it, marble Christs always seem to have good views. A certainty that was in this case indeed correct and the entire population of Tucuman seemed to be aware of that. It was slammed with people eating, drinking, chatting (, littering) and admiring their city which was indeed slightly prettier from a distance than when standing right into it.
I expected this hike to end at the Jesus statue, but surpriiiiise: still 5km to go without shades! Grmpff, alright then, let’s go for it, marble Christs always seem to have good views. A certainty that was in this case indeed correct and the entire population of Tucuman seemed to be aware of that. It was slammed with people eating, drinking, chatting (, littering) and admiring their city which was indeed slightly prettier from a distance than when standing right into it.
I looked at my phone and saw a message from Juan: “Go to Loma Bola to watch the paragliders!”
What do you mean ‘watch’? I wasn’t born a spectator, I’m not going to look at others having all the fun.
I did it once in the mountains of Slovenia and from what I remember it was quite the success. So I walked another 6km to the place mentioned and without a second to lose started asking around who wanted to fly with me. Luck was on my side, normally you have to reserve these things, but one guide had to cancel a flight as the overweight woman didn’t fit in the gear… enter Steph. My backpack was loaded into the back, so instead of taking the bus I returned home paragliding.
What do you mean ‘watch’? I wasn’t born a spectator, I’m not going to look at others having all the fun.
I did it once in the mountains of Slovenia and from what I remember it was quite the success. So I walked another 6km to the place mentioned and without a second to lose started asking around who wanted to fly with me. Luck was on my side, normally you have to reserve these things, but one guide had to cancel a flight as the overweight woman didn’t fit in the gear… enter Steph. My backpack was loaded into the back, so instead of taking the bus I returned home paragliding.
The feeling of running off a mountain without fear, dropping yourself into eternity to oversee life and discover what’s beyond… that’s what life is about. That’s what my life is about.
Useful maps and tourist information:
In order to support the travelers’ community, I spend many hours per week to adequately document all information and advices for prospective visitors, accompanied by a (hopefully) entertaining insight into my personal observations and experiences. This service is and will remain free. However, if you voluntarily want to make a contribution and support my travels and thus the creation of new stories and information supply, here is the button you’re looking for:
Related:
- Go to the Argentina Page for more blogs and hitchhike adventures!
- Check out Budget Bucket List's FAVORITE HIKING DESTINATIONS worldwide!
- Paragliding in Brazil
- Skydiving in Brazil
- Adventure sports in Ecuador
- The 4-day Adventure Sports Jungle Trek to Machu Picchu, Peru
- Rope-jumping in Lithuania
- Hiking walhallas of Argentina: Bariloche, Cafayate, Córdoba, El Chaltén, Esquel and Tafí del Valle
- A 3-day trek through the remotest parts of Bolivia
- Outdoor lover? Head down to Ecuador and don't miss Banos
- A rainy outdoor adventure in Cajas National Park, Ecuador
- Off the beaten path in Peru: trekking in the northern Andes
- Chilean greenery at its best: Isla de Chiloe
- Getting lost in the undiscovered forests of Brazil: Itatiaia National Park, Cambará do Sul and Ilha Grande
- Green in Colombia: Minca, Salento & Tayrona National Park
- An overnight forest hike in the hottest part of Paraguay
- The green heart of Uruguay: Minas
- The green treasures of Costa Rica: Monteverde, Tapantí National Park & Tortuguero National Park
- Visiting the national parks of Belize: Belmopan & Sarteneja
- Hiding in the woods: the non-touristy Mols Bjerge National Park, Denmark
- Hiking the Highlands: Glencoe (West Highland Way) and Isle of Skye, Scotland
- Nature in Lithuania, the best of the Baltics
- Malaysia's hottest hiking spots: visit Taman Negara, Cameron Highlands, Penang, Miri and Kuching!
- Europe's best skiing & hiking: Get your ass over to jaw-dropping Switzerland!
- Go to the Argentina Page for more blogs and hitchhike adventures!
- Check out Budget Bucket List's FAVORITE HIKING DESTINATIONS worldwide!
- Paragliding in Brazil
- Skydiving in Brazil
- Adventure sports in Ecuador
- The 4-day Adventure Sports Jungle Trek to Machu Picchu, Peru
- Rope-jumping in Lithuania
- Hiking walhallas of Argentina: Bariloche, Cafayate, Córdoba, El Chaltén, Esquel and Tafí del Valle
- A 3-day trek through the remotest parts of Bolivia
- Outdoor lover? Head down to Ecuador and don't miss Banos
- A rainy outdoor adventure in Cajas National Park, Ecuador
- Off the beaten path in Peru: trekking in the northern Andes
- Chilean greenery at its best: Isla de Chiloe
- Getting lost in the undiscovered forests of Brazil: Itatiaia National Park, Cambará do Sul and Ilha Grande
- Green in Colombia: Minca, Salento & Tayrona National Park
- An overnight forest hike in the hottest part of Paraguay
- The green heart of Uruguay: Minas
- The green treasures of Costa Rica: Monteverde, Tapantí National Park & Tortuguero National Park
- Visiting the national parks of Belize: Belmopan & Sarteneja
- Hiding in the woods: the non-touristy Mols Bjerge National Park, Denmark
- Hiking the Highlands: Glencoe (West Highland Way) and Isle of Skye, Scotland
- Nature in Lithuania, the best of the Baltics
- Malaysia's hottest hiking spots: visit Taman Negara, Cameron Highlands, Penang, Miri and Kuching!
- Europe's best skiing & hiking: Get your ass over to jaw-dropping Switzerland!