Matagalpa
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I sat in a bus, studying my National Geographic Traveler. I dreamt away by the most incredible destinations, some of them I had already seen, but even more were still on my budget bucket list. Suddenly I looked up and realized that what was happening on the other side of my window was at least as interesting: caramel coloured mountains and pastel vegetation slid by my vision. I closed my magazine and looked at Matagalpa.
I had zero to no expectations of this place. It was just there on the map and buses went there, so why not. I quickly opened my Triposo travel app on my phone to get the slightest idea of what was awaiting me: National parks, some waterfalls and basically everything related to coffee. Good. As usual I didn’t make a hotel booking, a thing highly unnecessary in Nicaragua anyway as this country is quite behind on the path of digital development. Hotel-websites and Booking.com are privileges for the high-end or gringo-owned properties. The basic, cheap, local-owned hospedajes just have a ‘hotel’ sign hanging out and the owner simply subscribes the (phonetical) names of his guests in a big, wrinkled notebook. Matagalpa, although not a seriously touristic destination, has no lack of hotels. In the first three streets I walked on I saw about five. I settled with the cheapo, 200 cordobas (like $8) per night. What do you get for this nominal investment? Four walls, an iron roof, a double bed, a fan, a freezing cold shower and a leaking sink. And privacy. That means: People won’t see what you’re doing, like in the hostel dorms, they would however hear every fart you quietly let slide out.
I let myself fall on the dinosaurs bedcover, next to the chewing gum on the wall, and told myself out loud: “Yeah, that’ll do.” To not waste the rest of this ‘travel day’ I dropped off our luggage and went out to explore Matagalpa. The lovely centre of Matagalpa. That last sentence must be read in a sarcastic voice. I basically ended up zigzagging in between inconsiderate drivers and drunks, and ended the day unwillingly hanging out with two homeless trying to get me on the boat of a romantic escapade.
Apparently you need to get just outside of Matagalpa to have a good time. So I hunted down a useful map and discovered I was surrounded by national parks. Sweet.
The look-out point (mirador) El Calvario seemed like a good start, and as I learned it was too far and dangerous to walk up there alone I took a cab. Standing in front of a closed gate (renovations, hurray) I learned this was a useless investment. I paid the cab driver again to take me up to another look-out on another mountain, located in the Apante Reserve (30 cordobas entrance). To get up there I had to commit to a 2-hour steep walk along rivers, rugged nature and apparently existent wildlife. This wasn’t a punishment, especially if you consider the amazing views you are rewarded with at the top.
The look-out point (mirador) El Calvario seemed like a good start, and as I learned it was too far and dangerous to walk up there alone I took a cab. Standing in front of a closed gate (renovations, hurray) I learned this was a useless investment. I paid the cab driver again to take me up to another look-out on another mountain, located in the Apante Reserve (30 cordobas entrance). To get up there I had to commit to a 2-hour steep walk along rivers, rugged nature and apparently existent wildlife. This wasn’t a punishment, especially if you consider the amazing views you are rewarded with at the top.
Yes, Matagalpa is for sure more beautiful from a distance. Nevertheless, I had to go back there so after my steep descent I jumped into one of those resonating minivans rocking on reggeaton, heading back to the centre.
When I woke up with my head next to the toilet (no drunken lullabies here, just the classy interior of my hotel room), I quickly packed my daypack for another hiking adventure: Selva Negra, recommended by three different locals.
When I woke up with my head next to the toilet (no drunken lullabies here, just the classy interior of my hotel room), I quickly packed my daypack for another hiking adventure: Selva Negra, recommended by three different locals.
Again, I had no idea what this ‘black jungle’ had in store for me, but it was close to the El Arenal Reserve and some coffee plantations, so I expected something outdoorsy. I got a Nicaraguan upgrade of Center Parcs instead. Is that a bad thing? No, absolutely not. This natural bunglowpark was incredible. Even though it had a high midweek-with-the-family-vibe, it had a lot to offer for every age group. Instead of some plastic ‘tropical experience’ this place actually covered a true natural reserve, accommodated with well-indicated trails with no lack of adventure.
Because yeah, I did expect some non-challenging wheelchair-accessible paths so also grandma can come along on the ‘hike’… but no: nothing of that kind. In fact, on the ‘fountain of youth’ trail I found myself swearing and screaming while falling and sliding down the slippery, muddy non-path that requires you to be more of an acrobat than a hiker (Typing this 1.5 week later I’m still sitting on a blue-coloured bottom… fountain of youth… yeah… I turned 20 years older on that trail). Nevertheless, it was great fun. I hiked about 85% of the trails, looked up at monkey tribes, listened to the songs of the quetzals, washed the mud off in the rivers and got hypnotized by the sound of my footsteps while my mind merged with nature.
... and for some inexplicable reason I found a sign with the little Dutch town where I grow up... that's just plain weird.
That evening, while waiting on the rare blood moon, I realized even though I'm always living in the moment, I sometimes hope these moments can last forever.
That evening, while waiting on the rare blood moon, I realized even though I'm always living in the moment, I sometimes hope these moments can last forever.
Another day in Matagalpa (I took my time: 5 days) I wanted to check off another hotspot on the map: The Cascada Blanca Waterfall next to Santa Emilia. Along the way I decided I did not want to pay, so instead I headed to some free one further down the road. There was supposed to be a sign, but apparently not anymore so I just knocked on the door of the first house I saw. Some kid informed me she owned the waterfall and I should pay her some money. Honestly doubting that information I verified it with some locals who confirmed this was indeed correct, but pointed at some free entrance somewhere through the cornfields. I followed a guy with a machete (because fuck safety right?) who brought me down to a route passed barbed wire.
And suddenly, out of nothing, the majestic overwhelming view of a cascade thundering through thick tropics met my eyes.
Looking through the lens of my camera a little voice repeated it to me once again: “This is why you travel".
And suddenly, out of nothing, the majestic overwhelming view of a cascade thundering through thick tropics met my eyes.
Looking through the lens of my camera a little voice repeated it to me once again: “This is why you travel".
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- Volcano-hopping in Nicaragua: Isla de Ometepe, Mombacho, Masaya & Hervidores de San Jacinto
- Nicaraguan hiking adventures: San Sebastián de Yali, Mombacho & Laguna Apoyo
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- The most authentic beach place in Nicaragua: Playa Gigante
- Places to avoid in Nicaragua: San Juan del Sur & Managua
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- Visiting the national parks of Belize: Belmopan & Sarteneja
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