Swiss Cities
It usually makes my toes crawl, a travelblogger who claims (s)he’s an ‘expert’ of a certain destination. What makes you an expert? If you lived there? For how long? And how intensely, as some of us sure as hell know how to live life harder than others. I have visited Switzerland 6 times now, and I spent no less than 7 months of 2020 inside of the Swiss borders. To work, to enjoy the mountains covered under snow and glistering in the sun, and also because an invisible virus locked me in and refused to let me out. Does that make me a Switzerland-expert? Don’t ask me. But I do know I had the chance to have a proper peek around, hidden behind the ‘new-normal-item’ called a face-mask.
I never made it a secret that I’m a sucker for the mountains, and within Europe-context it simply doesn’t get better than the Alps (and yes, I crossed the Pyrenees - solo on foot - as well as the Carpathians, but I keep backing up my statement). I also never denied that I’m definitely not a fan of the Swiss cities. I mean, they’re not terrible, but they’re… cities. Why spend time in cities if you can literally travel for max an hour and stand in the most sublime nature of the entire continent? Why else go to Switzerland?
Anyway, you clicked this article, so let’s ignore my raised eyebrows and dive a bit deeper into the Swiss offer on city trips. Because they definitely can be enjoyable.
I never made it a secret that I’m a sucker for the mountains, and within Europe-context it simply doesn’t get better than the Alps (and yes, I crossed the Pyrenees - solo on foot - as well as the Carpathians, but I keep backing up my statement). I also never denied that I’m definitely not a fan of the Swiss cities. I mean, they’re not terrible, but they’re… cities. Why spend time in cities if you can literally travel for max an hour and stand in the most sublime nature of the entire continent? Why else go to Switzerland?
Anyway, you clicked this article, so let’s ignore my raised eyebrows and dive a bit deeper into the Swiss offer on city trips. Because they definitely can be enjoyable.
Bern
Who would have thought? The city I assumed to like the least (as it’s the capital which is immediately cognitively connected to traffic jams, exhaust fumes and stressful lifestyles) actually represented my personal urban highlight in Swiss context. It checks all the boxes: Culture and interesting museums (which are free to enter with a Raiffeisen plus bank card – the paid membership), cute beer hangouts and cosy coffee shops, a village vibe with village distances, countless patches of green… in fact, at times it feels more like a city inside of a park - instead of some parks in the city. Historical architecture goes hand in hand with this kind of leftish, vegan tree-hug vibe and second-hand book shops (especially in the Rathausgasse, my favourite street), and in fact, it doesn’t feel like a capital at all.
I had passed Bern by car and train on several occasions and a priori decided I didn’t like it, but thank heavens I am self-aware of my sometimes faulty conclusions and forced myself back on a very pleasant Couchsurfing-stay to get more thoroughly to the bottom of this city’s essence. And I think you should too.
Who would have thought? The city I assumed to like the least (as it’s the capital which is immediately cognitively connected to traffic jams, exhaust fumes and stressful lifestyles) actually represented my personal urban highlight in Swiss context. It checks all the boxes: Culture and interesting museums (which are free to enter with a Raiffeisen plus bank card – the paid membership), cute beer hangouts and cosy coffee shops, a village vibe with village distances, countless patches of green… in fact, at times it feels more like a city inside of a park - instead of some parks in the city. Historical architecture goes hand in hand with this kind of leftish, vegan tree-hug vibe and second-hand book shops (especially in the Rathausgasse, my favourite street), and in fact, it doesn’t feel like a capital at all.
I had passed Bern by car and train on several occasions and a priori decided I didn’t like it, but thank heavens I am self-aware of my sometimes faulty conclusions and forced myself back on a very pleasant Couchsurfing-stay to get more thoroughly to the bottom of this city’s essence. And I think you should too.
| Raiffeisen Museum List |
Zürich
I wish I could say the same about Zürich, especially as I have visited this city on a handful of occasions as one of my friends selected this spot as his final residence. Let’s just say he found something here that I didn’t. Many people falsely believe it’s the capital, which isn’t the case, but it does bear the title of Switzerland’s biggest city in terms of population. I guess it somehow saved Bern from all these earlier formulated fears and disadvantages usually sticking to a capital hub. Where Bern (and Basel) have a more intimate, borough-kinda-feel, Zürich is everything modern and millennial, catering to the needs of the sophisticated labourer.
That said, it does offer a pleasant proximity to nature in the form of the Uetliberg as well as Lake Zurich, and the water is so clean that in summer people refresh en masse in the city’s rivers. I mean, unless you’re hot for some nasty infection or two, don’t try that in Rome or Amsterdam.
Check out the full article on Zürich.
I wish I could say the same about Zürich, especially as I have visited this city on a handful of occasions as one of my friends selected this spot as his final residence. Let’s just say he found something here that I didn’t. Many people falsely believe it’s the capital, which isn’t the case, but it does bear the title of Switzerland’s biggest city in terms of population. I guess it somehow saved Bern from all these earlier formulated fears and disadvantages usually sticking to a capital hub. Where Bern (and Basel) have a more intimate, borough-kinda-feel, Zürich is everything modern and millennial, catering to the needs of the sophisticated labourer.
That said, it does offer a pleasant proximity to nature in the form of the Uetliberg as well as Lake Zurich, and the water is so clean that in summer people refresh en masse in the city’s rivers. I mean, unless you’re hot for some nasty infection or two, don’t try that in Rome or Amsterdam.
Check out the full article on Zürich.
Basel
I didn’t even plan on going to Basel, I was invited here by a lovely Couchsurfer that somehow caught up on my hosting request for the more southern regions, but in retrospect I must conclude I would definitely have missed out. And FoMO is my driving life force, so take that from me (an expert?).
I can go into the details of all there is to see and do in this lovely border town (my phone literally went nuts continuously hysterically spamming me with Covid-updates of then France, then Switzerland and then Germany), like its jaw-dropping historical centre (area around the Basel Munster: a must-see), picturesque bridges over the Rhine, fine museums, laid-back parks and the Birskopf Beach… but we’re good there. Holding up my score board: 10/10. What really made the end-cut is its carnival, something my local host tried to capture in a passionate speech taking up a significant chunk of the wine-drenched evening. Fasnacht, Switzerland’s biggest, contains the country’s three most beautiful days of the year (“die drey scheenschte Dääg”) qualifying it as one of UNESCO’s intangible cultural heritage. From the Schnitzelbank singers to the Schyssdräggziigili and the Morgestraich, I listened breathless to all empirical memories, understanding as a fervid carnival-celebrator (Bergen op Zoom, or during carnival-times, ‘Krabbegat’ in the Netherlands) the seriousness of letting go of all life’s seriousness.
Fact that made me smile: According to local narrative, confetti is a Basel invention, also called “Räppli”. Only single-coloured confetti can be purchased though. It’s available in all colors of the rainbow, but never mixed. This was an official decision of the regional confetti commission (not kidding) to prevent the re-use of confetti, as it’s considered an unhygienic practice. Oh, how very Swiss of them.
I didn’t even plan on going to Basel, I was invited here by a lovely Couchsurfer that somehow caught up on my hosting request for the more southern regions, but in retrospect I must conclude I would definitely have missed out. And FoMO is my driving life force, so take that from me (an expert?).
I can go into the details of all there is to see and do in this lovely border town (my phone literally went nuts continuously hysterically spamming me with Covid-updates of then France, then Switzerland and then Germany), like its jaw-dropping historical centre (area around the Basel Munster: a must-see), picturesque bridges over the Rhine, fine museums, laid-back parks and the Birskopf Beach… but we’re good there. Holding up my score board: 10/10. What really made the end-cut is its carnival, something my local host tried to capture in a passionate speech taking up a significant chunk of the wine-drenched evening. Fasnacht, Switzerland’s biggest, contains the country’s three most beautiful days of the year (“die drey scheenschte Dääg”) qualifying it as one of UNESCO’s intangible cultural heritage. From the Schnitzelbank singers to the Schyssdräggziigili and the Morgestraich, I listened breathless to all empirical memories, understanding as a fervid carnival-celebrator (Bergen op Zoom, or during carnival-times, ‘Krabbegat’ in the Netherlands) the seriousness of letting go of all life’s seriousness.
Fact that made me smile: According to local narrative, confetti is a Basel invention, also called “Räppli”. Only single-coloured confetti can be purchased though. It’s available in all colors of the rainbow, but never mixed. This was an official decision of the regional confetti commission (not kidding) to prevent the re-use of confetti, as it’s considered an unhygienic practice. Oh, how very Swiss of them.
Luzern
Another interesting stop on your Swiss urban itinerary could come in the form of Luzern, Lucerne for the western Swissies. What I liked most about this place is the pleasant balance between compact city life - with its art collections, churches and fancy historical buildings embracing the surprisingly blue Reuss river – as well as its natural delights. No surprises here, as Luzern serves as a gateway to the Alps, providing an enticing preview. Lake Lucerne, Mount Rigi (fantastic panoramas) and the Entlebuch are top attractions for a reason. Definitely worth a pit-stop (on the way to the Alps, of course).
Another interesting stop on your Swiss urban itinerary could come in the form of Luzern, Lucerne for the western Swissies. What I liked most about this place is the pleasant balance between compact city life - with its art collections, churches and fancy historical buildings embracing the surprisingly blue Reuss river – as well as its natural delights. No surprises here, as Luzern serves as a gateway to the Alps, providing an enticing preview. Lake Lucerne, Mount Rigi (fantastic panoramas) and the Entlebuch are top attractions for a reason. Definitely worth a pit-stop (on the way to the Alps, of course).
Interlaken / Grindelwald / Lauterbrunnen
Probably the most hyped Swiss places on Instagram of all, especially serving as ultimate Asian magnets. What can I say… I didn’t feel it as much. I was hosted by a lovely Couchsurfing family (imagine growing up with parents who participate in Couchsurfing, what a childhood!) and spend a few lovely days here sleigh riding and admiring the Jungfrau Joch in Interlaken, so I definitely left fond memories. Also, the location right in between two scenic lakes (Brienersee and Thunersee) is quite epic… But Interlaken as a village? Not much there. The same can be said about Grindelwald and the valley of Lauterbrunnen. It makes a nice 1-hour photostop, but then you’ve kind of seen it all. Not the best skiing here either, it’s better to go a tad deeper into the Alps in the directions of Adelboden-Lenk, Gstaad or Zermatt.
The prettiest ‘typical Swiss’ Instagram-worthy destinations in my humble opinion are both Brienz and Adelboden.
Probably the most hyped Swiss places on Instagram of all, especially serving as ultimate Asian magnets. What can I say… I didn’t feel it as much. I was hosted by a lovely Couchsurfing family (imagine growing up with parents who participate in Couchsurfing, what a childhood!) and spend a few lovely days here sleigh riding and admiring the Jungfrau Joch in Interlaken, so I definitely left fond memories. Also, the location right in between two scenic lakes (Brienersee and Thunersee) is quite epic… But Interlaken as a village? Not much there. The same can be said about Grindelwald and the valley of Lauterbrunnen. It makes a nice 1-hour photostop, but then you’ve kind of seen it all. Not the best skiing here either, it’s better to go a tad deeper into the Alps in the directions of Adelboden-Lenk, Gstaad or Zermatt.
The prettiest ‘typical Swiss’ Instagram-worthy destinations in my humble opinion are both Brienz and Adelboden.
Interlaken
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Grindelwald
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Lauterbrunnen
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Brienz
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Adelboden
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Spiez / Thun
The main attraction of these two towns basically embracing one another, is its proximity to the Thunersee, nature once again determining its overall attractiveness. But as said, if it’s nature you’re after, dig a bit deeper… travel half an hour / hour more south and be truly rewarded. When focusing on the metropolitan side of both Thun and Spiez, castle-hopping is serious business here: I name a Schloss Thun, an Oberhofen Castle, and a Spiez Castle to serve your needs. Alternatively, a laidback stroll along the Obere Hauptgasse and clock tower is rather rewarding, but then you’ve kind of seen it all.
The main attraction of these two towns basically embracing one another, is its proximity to the Thunersee, nature once again determining its overall attractiveness. But as said, if it’s nature you’re after, dig a bit deeper… travel half an hour / hour more south and be truly rewarded. When focusing on the metropolitan side of both Thun and Spiez, castle-hopping is serious business here: I name a Schloss Thun, an Oberhofen Castle, and a Spiez Castle to serve your needs. Alternatively, a laidback stroll along the Obere Hauptgasse and clock tower is rather rewarding, but then you’ve kind of seen it all.
Bulle (Fribourg)
Another place I randomly ended up in due to a Couchsurfing invitation, but ended up looking back on with fond memories: Bulle, right under Fribourg (not the German Freiburg, this one belongs to ‘ze’ French of Switzerland). As interesting as it is that within a few minutes of driving within Berner Oberland the language makes a complete 180 and people don’t even know how to speak German anymore (which is of course a snobby Francophone-characteristic, the German-speaking Swissies all speak fluent French), also the architecture gives off a more French vibe than Swiss. It’s quite fun in corona-times that even within the country-borders you can simulate a tiny tour of Europe. Bulle, besides the Gruyeres Castle and Chateau de Bulle (more castle-hopping yeah), doesn’t invite for much more besides absorbing this ambiance and therefore won’t require much of you time… but if time is on your side, why not give it a modest go.
Another place I randomly ended up in due to a Couchsurfing invitation, but ended up looking back on with fond memories: Bulle, right under Fribourg (not the German Freiburg, this one belongs to ‘ze’ French of Switzerland). As interesting as it is that within a few minutes of driving within Berner Oberland the language makes a complete 180 and people don’t even know how to speak German anymore (which is of course a snobby Francophone-characteristic, the German-speaking Swissies all speak fluent French), also the architecture gives off a more French vibe than Swiss. It’s quite fun in corona-times that even within the country-borders you can simulate a tiny tour of Europe. Bulle, besides the Gruyeres Castle and Chateau de Bulle (more castle-hopping yeah), doesn’t invite for much more besides absorbing this ambiance and therefore won’t require much of you time… but if time is on your side, why not give it a modest go.
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So tell me, what’s your favourite Swiss city?
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