Busan
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It takes a bit to get used to. But when you do, you don’t want to leave.
Busan is with its 3.5 million inhabitants a proper city indeed, skyscraper after skyscraper stretching far beyond the horizon... but it somehow managed to escape the state of madhouse and hysterical chaos that taunts Seoul. Like its more decent, introverted sister.
But still waters run deep.
[No time to read today? Scroll down for the video!]
Busan is with its 3.5 million inhabitants a proper city indeed, skyscraper after skyscraper stretching far beyond the horizon... but it somehow managed to escape the state of madhouse and hysterical chaos that taunts Seoul. Like its more decent, introverted sister.
But still waters run deep.
[No time to read today? Scroll down for the video!]
Like any other metropolis it has its fair share of traffic clutter, air contamination and other urban disturbances, but hidden within that grey labyrinth of high-rising structures a little treasure hunt can easily be accomplished.
And – good for us – being a tourist here won’t break the bank. The size of this city promises days filled with sightseeing, museum-visits and even venturesome hikes... activities that are in most cases entirely free. Don’t worry, I did the work for you:
Free sights
Gamcheon Cultural Village
If you have one day in Busan, this is where you’re going to spend it. Spread out like a collection of colourful presents, snugly hugging the rolling hills soaring above the bustling city lights, this surely is Busan’s gift to anyone who cares to pay a visit. Lazily vanish in the swirling alleyways forming a messy rainbows of colors, every little corner and unexpected turn revealing another piece of art. Or a cat. That’s right, Gamcheon counts about as many inhabitants as cats, like the place wasn’t already perfect. Cinque Terre goes Korean – and gave it a cultural update as we speak.
And – good for us – being a tourist here won’t break the bank. The size of this city promises days filled with sightseeing, museum-visits and even venturesome hikes... activities that are in most cases entirely free. Don’t worry, I did the work for you:
Free sights
Gamcheon Cultural Village
If you have one day in Busan, this is where you’re going to spend it. Spread out like a collection of colourful presents, snugly hugging the rolling hills soaring above the bustling city lights, this surely is Busan’s gift to anyone who cares to pay a visit. Lazily vanish in the swirling alleyways forming a messy rainbows of colors, every little corner and unexpected turn revealing another piece of art. Or a cat. That’s right, Gamcheon counts about as many inhabitants as cats, like the place wasn’t already perfect. Cinque Terre goes Korean – and gave it a cultural update as we speak.
168 Stairs
Forget about the lousy 40 Steps Tourist Street. The 168-one does it better, faster, harder! ... Or something. Even though it’s quite a detour for a tiny highlight so easily checked off, the little city-trail full of recycle-art, ateliers and cuddly coffee shops are a welcome variation to the modern high-rises and ever-present claxon cacophony. There’s even a small one-cabin tourist train sliding uphill if you can’t be arsed to walk those five minutes. Scenic-cityviews-guarantee!
Forget about the lousy 40 Steps Tourist Street. The 168-one does it better, faster, harder! ... Or something. Even though it’s quite a detour for a tiny highlight so easily checked off, the little city-trail full of recycle-art, ateliers and cuddly coffee shops are a welcome variation to the modern high-rises and ever-present claxon cacophony. There’s even a small one-cabin tourist train sliding uphill if you can’t be arsed to walk those five minutes. Scenic-cityviews-guarantee!
Bosudong Book Alley
Culture vultures flock together! This is the place to pimp your Instagram. Meters and meters of books, stall after stall, swallowing up the walls, coloring in the passageways... Not that you will be able to read a single word of it, unless your Korean Duolingo course really took off, but that doesn’t matter anymore in our current shallow social-media-society, does it? (yes millenials, looking at you)
Culture vultures flock together! This is the place to pimp your Instagram. Meters and meters of books, stall after stall, swallowing up the walls, coloring in the passageways... Not that you will be able to read a single word of it, unless your Korean Duolingo course really took off, but that doesn’t matter anymore in our current shallow social-media-society, does it? (yes millenials, looking at you)
Giant-Anus-Statue
Ladies and gentlemen, we have a winner. First observed behind the anonymity of a bus window, I personally returned to immortalize this quality piece in image (call me an enthusiast). Smack-bam in the middle of a busy business street stands the homage to the arsehole, the pooper, our beloved chocolate starfish! I don’t want to anal-yze this too much or get too anal about the matter, but the fact that it was positioned in front of the local Trump Tower does add symbolic value.
Ladies and gentlemen, we have a winner. First observed behind the anonymity of a bus window, I personally returned to immortalize this quality piece in image (call me an enthusiast). Smack-bam in the middle of a busy business street stands the homage to the arsehole, the pooper, our beloved chocolate starfish! I don’t want to anal-yze this too much or get too anal about the matter, but the fact that it was positioned in front of the local Trump Tower does add symbolic value.
Ehm... nahhhh...
I get it, you’re busy. Travelling is almost a job in itself sometimes, cramped schedules working around countless highlights to beat the persistent FoMo (fear of missing out). Sometimes you come home more tired than you left.
Let me make it easier for you, as Busan might have a sequence of climaxes, many TripAdvisor/Lonely Planet listings are genuinely hardly worth the effort. For example, that Lee-Jeongsup-story-whatever-street you might have read about: 100% shit – some rundown park with lots of rusty sports equipment and some deserted temple. The Daeyongdong Cultural Alley? Drinks on me if you can find it! The concept of a “hidden gem” surely can be taken too far. And fair enough, that 168-stairs-idea turned out quite well... but do we really need a 40 Steps and a 148 Stairs as well? I was hardly impressed (and done walking within 20 seconds sharp). Irrelevant.
I get it, you’re busy. Travelling is almost a job in itself sometimes, cramped schedules working around countless highlights to beat the persistent FoMo (fear of missing out). Sometimes you come home more tired than you left.
Let me make it easier for you, as Busan might have a sequence of climaxes, many TripAdvisor/Lonely Planet listings are genuinely hardly worth the effort. For example, that Lee-Jeongsup-story-whatever-street you might have read about: 100% shit – some rundown park with lots of rusty sports equipment and some deserted temple. The Daeyongdong Cultural Alley? Drinks on me if you can find it! The concept of a “hidden gem” surely can be taken too far. And fair enough, that 168-stairs-idea turned out quite well... but do we really need a 40 Steps and a 148 Stairs as well? I was hardly impressed (and done walking within 20 seconds sharp). Irrelevant.
Free Museums
Busan Modern History Museum
If you’re the tiniest bit like me and prefer to have a thorough feel of local history before even bothering to look around and filter observations with historical meaning... well, than this is your place. Abundant in text and image, this exposition clarifies last century’s events of Korea and, more specifically, Busan’s role in all of that.
Busan Museum
Want to know why the Japanese are (more correctly: were) a bunch of knob heads? This museum richly explains all the facets of this – for Koreans – strongly evidenced statement, precisely as the Modern History Museum doesn’t fail to highlight this painful part of the local annals. That, and the country’s history from Stone Age until America’s fuck-up (smoothly disguised, as the museum is sponsored by the UN... ahum-objectivity-ahum). Come and see, come and see!
Busan Modern History Museum
If you’re the tiniest bit like me and prefer to have a thorough feel of local history before even bothering to look around and filter observations with historical meaning... well, than this is your place. Abundant in text and image, this exposition clarifies last century’s events of Korea and, more specifically, Busan’s role in all of that.
Busan Museum
Want to know why the Japanese are (more correctly: were) a bunch of knob heads? This museum richly explains all the facets of this – for Koreans – strongly evidenced statement, precisely as the Modern History Museum doesn’t fail to highlight this painful part of the local annals. That, and the country’s history from Stone Age until America’s fuck-up (smoothly disguised, as the museum is sponsored by the UN... ahum-objectivity-ahum). Come and see, come and see!
Goeung Museum of Photography
I think I saw a collection of magnificent strong works of highly gifted artists, but I could be mistaken as I had to admire the exhibition in the dark. Despite my fierce shouts of “안녕하세요” / “annyeonghaseyo!” no one cared to even turn the lights on for me, let alone notice they had a visitor. Typical case of “it could have been much worse but it should’ve been better” [Five Finger Death Punch, 2013].
I think I saw a collection of magnificent strong works of highly gifted artists, but I could be mistaken as I had to admire the exhibition in the dark. Despite my fierce shouts of “안녕하세요” / “annyeonghaseyo!” no one cared to even turn the lights on for me, let alone notice they had a visitor. Typical case of “it could have been much worse but it should’ve been better” [Five Finger Death Punch, 2013].
Museum of Art
I came, and I came again. Leg-wise I mean. First it was closed because: because. But the exterior looked so spectacular I returned a second time to check out what’s behind the surface. A lot of space mainly, I had to conclude. And some selected works of strongly varying quality. Let me put it this way: Some artistries were so poor it almost served as a direct insult to the high-quality works hanging next to it.
I came, and I came again. Leg-wise I mean. First it was closed because: because. But the exterior looked so spectacular I returned a second time to check out what’s behind the surface. A lot of space mainly, I had to conclude. And some selected works of strongly varying quality. Let me put it this way: Some artistries were so poor it almost served as a direct insult to the high-quality works hanging next to it.
More: National Maritime Museum, Marine Natural History Museum.
Beaches
It’s not the first thing you think of when hearing the description ‘3,5 million megapolis’, but Busan is actually a fantastic spot for a (shallow) dive. Even though most Koreans generally put beaches to use to satisfy their unquenchable selfie-thirst, the mild waves and clean shores makes for a safe sunny get-together.
From popular to pretty-much-deserted (but never entirely in this overpopulated country):
Keep into account: No swimming is allowed beyond the buoys (chest-deep during high tide – waist-deep during low tide) and as with anything else in Korea, rules are strictly enforced. It is prohibited to enter the water after 6PM.
Beaches
It’s not the first thing you think of when hearing the description ‘3,5 million megapolis’, but Busan is actually a fantastic spot for a (shallow) dive. Even though most Koreans generally put beaches to use to satisfy their unquenchable selfie-thirst, the mild waves and clean shores makes for a safe sunny get-together.
From popular to pretty-much-deserted (but never entirely in this overpopulated country):
- Haeundae Beach: Yes, from that car brand (Hyundai)... It’s a long, clean strip bordering a developed and modern boulevard, constantly packed and the famous hotspot for a wide variety of festivals.
- Gwangalli Beach: A bright strip of white, conveniently downtown and with scenic view on the Diamond Bridge.
- Songdo Beach: If you’re travelling with kids, this man-made city centre beach will be the front-runner due to its short but scenic cable car ride. Moreover, the Songdo Cloud Trails and waterfalls make this an interesting walk for any nature-enthusiast.
- Dadeopo Beach: At the western side of the city, a favourite place to plunge in the suburbs.
- Songjeong Beach: Known as a surfer’s beach, you might expect some higher waves here... but they’re absent. Nevertheless, this is a more quiet getaway for a tad more privacy.
Keep into account: No swimming is allowed beyond the buoys (chest-deep during high tide – waist-deep during low tide) and as with anything else in Korea, rules are strictly enforced. It is prohibited to enter the water after 6PM.
Parks
Koreans love nature almost as much as they love rules, order and authority... so the love-child of these two comes in the shape of parks. Personally I’m not a fan, why would you indulge in anything so man-made , especially if the city is dotted with actual mountains? But even I must admit that a spot like the giant Busan Citizen Park isn’t the worst place to relax.
Other options: Yongdusan Park, Children’s Grand Park, APEC Naru Park, Geumgang Park, Democracy Park, Busan Olympic Park, Jungang Park, Haeundae Songnim Park, Samrak Ecological Park, Dongbaek Park, Daejeo Ecological Park, Suyeong Historical Park, UN Memorial Cemetery and Park, Minrak Subyeon Gongweon, Jaseongdae Park, Onchonchon’s Citizen Park, Sasang Neighbourhood Park, Macdo Saengtae Park.
Koreans love nature almost as much as they love rules, order and authority... so the love-child of these two comes in the shape of parks. Personally I’m not a fan, why would you indulge in anything so man-made , especially if the city is dotted with actual mountains? But even I must admit that a spot like the giant Busan Citizen Park isn’t the worst place to relax.
Other options: Yongdusan Park, Children’s Grand Park, APEC Naru Park, Geumgang Park, Democracy Park, Busan Olympic Park, Jungang Park, Haeundae Songnim Park, Samrak Ecological Park, Dongbaek Park, Daejeo Ecological Park, Suyeong Historical Park, UN Memorial Cemetery and Park, Minrak Subyeon Gongweon, Jaseongdae Park, Onchonchon’s Citizen Park, Sasang Neighbourhood Park, Macdo Saengtae Park.
Hikes
Igidae Coast walk
I repeat: what’s the need of a park if you have so many actual hikes? That’s right, the fact that you’re on a citytrip doesn’t wipe trailblazing off the table... in fact, you don’t even have to leave downtown for it. It’s a magical thing how swiftly the soundcloud of cries, honks and rumble dies away when following the lopsided path stretching along Busan’s brisk shore. Igidae consist of a proper network of trails and you can expect locals to entirely dress up for the occasion: no disguising safari outfits here... fluorescent purple, pink and yellow is the look to go for when you’re a middle-aged Korean, including them hiking poles, armpit-high reaching gloves and the ever-present see-through sun-cap. Don’t expect anything too strenuous here, I did the entire coastal walk from beginning to end in about an hour... on flip-flops. But it’s a nice little distraction from city life.
Tip: On one end of the trail you’ll find the Oryokdu Skywalk, stretching out like a large glass tongue hovering above the pointy rocks. It’s free and won’t take more than 5 minutes of your time, so why wouldn’t you.
Igidae Coast walk
I repeat: what’s the need of a park if you have so many actual hikes? That’s right, the fact that you’re on a citytrip doesn’t wipe trailblazing off the table... in fact, you don’t even have to leave downtown for it. It’s a magical thing how swiftly the soundcloud of cries, honks and rumble dies away when following the lopsided path stretching along Busan’s brisk shore. Igidae consist of a proper network of trails and you can expect locals to entirely dress up for the occasion: no disguising safari outfits here... fluorescent purple, pink and yellow is the look to go for when you’re a middle-aged Korean, including them hiking poles, armpit-high reaching gloves and the ever-present see-through sun-cap. Don’t expect anything too strenuous here, I did the entire coastal walk from beginning to end in about an hour... on flip-flops. But it’s a nice little distraction from city life.
Tip: On one end of the trail you’ll find the Oryokdu Skywalk, stretching out like a large glass tongue hovering above the pointy rocks. It’s free and won’t take more than 5 minutes of your time, so why wouldn’t you.
Dongbaekseom Island
Not really an island anymore, this natural freebie is easily accessible from the mainland for those ready to disconnect (starting at the Westin Hotel – next to Haeundae Beach). Inhale the scent of fresh pine trees and follow the easier-than-easy boardwalks allowing far-reaching views over the South Sea... especially recommended around sunset!
Similar: Amnam Park, Oryukdu Island.
Hallyeohaesang National Park
In search of more eco-activities I stared at the map... and what spies my little eye? An actual national park! Technically outside of Busan, this green space however takes the crown. Easily and cheaply reached by red bus 2000 (the journey will take about 2 hours from downtown though, end station Okpo / 40 minutes by car), this outstanding natural park promises an endless sequence of untamed adventures. Stretched out over several islands, compromising no less than 545.63 km² of which 72.3% sea, this area is a thrilling combination of both a unique marine ecosystem as well as a forest trail network. Don’t expect any of those pussy wooden boardwalks and steps the Koreans adore so much: some proper die-hard trails are awaiting you, guaranteeing fair steepness.
Wild-camping officially isn’t allowed within the national parks, but the area surrounding it (such as the Okpo forests) offer plenty of opportunity. You can spend days here, so give it a burl!
Not really an island anymore, this natural freebie is easily accessible from the mainland for those ready to disconnect (starting at the Westin Hotel – next to Haeundae Beach). Inhale the scent of fresh pine trees and follow the easier-than-easy boardwalks allowing far-reaching views over the South Sea... especially recommended around sunset!
Similar: Amnam Park, Oryukdu Island.
Hallyeohaesang National Park
In search of more eco-activities I stared at the map... and what spies my little eye? An actual national park! Technically outside of Busan, this green space however takes the crown. Easily and cheaply reached by red bus 2000 (the journey will take about 2 hours from downtown though, end station Okpo / 40 minutes by car), this outstanding natural park promises an endless sequence of untamed adventures. Stretched out over several islands, compromising no less than 545.63 km² of which 72.3% sea, this area is a thrilling combination of both a unique marine ecosystem as well as a forest trail network. Don’t expect any of those pussy wooden boardwalks and steps the Koreans adore so much: some proper die-hard trails are awaiting you, guaranteeing fair steepness.
Wild-camping officially isn’t allowed within the national parks, but the area surrounding it (such as the Okpo forests) offer plenty of opportunity. You can spend days here, so give it a burl!
Other options: You’ll only have to quickly glare at an aerial photo of Busan to notice this city is built around and even against mountains. And basically all can be climbed via one trail or the other. I wouldn’t necessarily recommend one over the other, as all offer similar experiences and views... so just choose the one closest to your accommodation and burn those calories!
Cheap food
Quite truthfully, if you don’t speak Korean you’re in for a challenge. All menus as well as ingredient-overviews are written in hangul and you shouldn’t expect anyone to speak a word English (you might be lucky and find that one Korean that does, but don’t count on it). BUT, if even a veggo like me can survive, so can you. A general rule-of-thumb is avoiding going out for dinner, and if you do: Gimbap (the Korean version of sushi) is probably the cheapest option to trace down. Install a translate-app on the phone (Google Translate will do) to avoid any ordering mistakes. The Seomyeon Food Alley has some economical street food deals.
Cheap food
Quite truthfully, if you don’t speak Korean you’re in for a challenge. All menus as well as ingredient-overviews are written in hangul and you shouldn’t expect anyone to speak a word English (you might be lucky and find that one Korean that does, but don’t count on it). BUT, if even a veggo like me can survive, so can you. A general rule-of-thumb is avoiding going out for dinner, and if you do: Gimbap (the Korean version of sushi) is probably the cheapest option to trace down. Install a translate-app on the phone (Google Translate will do) to avoid any ordering mistakes. The Seomyeon Food Alley has some economical street food deals.
For self-catering it’s recommended to stick with bigger supermarkets such as Lotte, Emart and Traders (wholesale version of Emart) and focus on their house brands. Markets are surprisingly expensive and more a cultural experience than the place for a bargain, but street sellers scattered out over town seem to have cheaper deals. A (wo)man gotta eat, but why not safe a quid while you’re at it?
Cheap accommodation
Well, the cheapest option is not spending any dough at all, which can be realised by either Couchsurfing, Housesitting or (wild-)camping on the more remote beaches and mountains. Very doable, but possibly too hardcore to some. The good news is that affordable deals can be easily found on websites such as Air BnB, generally every kilometre you’re willing to deviate from the inner-city circle offering you a few square meters extra living space.
As I chose Busan as my temporary home for a month I went for the latter, and spent an extremely comfortable time in this 3-bedroom apartment which was surprisingly affordable (long-term rates apply):
Cheap accommodation
Well, the cheapest option is not spending any dough at all, which can be realised by either Couchsurfing, Housesitting or (wild-)camping on the more remote beaches and mountains. Very doable, but possibly too hardcore to some. The good news is that affordable deals can be easily found on websites such as Air BnB, generally every kilometre you’re willing to deviate from the inner-city circle offering you a few square meters extra living space.
As I chose Busan as my temporary home for a month I went for the latter, and spent an extremely comfortable time in this 3-bedroom apartment which was surprisingly affordable (long-term rates apply):
My personal experience taught me it’s extremely hard to find long-term rent as a foreigner in Korea outside of websites such as Air BnB. Rental contracts are generally on a yearly basis, all written in hangul and extremely complicated, often requiring a lawyer. Also, most Koreans won’t rent long-term to foreigners on a tourist visa. Air BnB provides communication in English and generally assists when complications arise, often providing full refunds. And no, they don’t pay me to say this ;)
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