Berat & Surroundings
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I consider myself a UNESCO-World-Heritage-fetishist. As such, Berat was an unavoidable stop on my 1-month Albania itinerary. One simple glance at this “City of a Thousand Windows” makes it clear why the entire historical centre is included in this prestigious list. The unique architectural style and multi-layered influences dating back to a variety of timelines characterize this extraordinary town, whilst inviting for an extensive and thorough stroll. Even though former communist leader Enver Hoxha didn’t do Albania any favors, he didn’t fail to notice Berat’s exceptional charm and importance by proclaiming it Albania’s “Museum City.” Indeed, you should go.
Kala
The Kala, also referred to as the Citadel, Old Town or Castle Quarter, is possibly the most prominent area of Berat, proudly towering above the city… providing hands down the best views in town. The Berat Castle, which has an extensive Roman and Byzantine history*, is remarkably well-preserved and contains an interesting conglomeration of ancient architecture, nowadays protected as cultural monuments. It’s quite interesting that people actually still live inside of the city walls. As this fortress-population was predominately Christian, it doesn’t come as a surprise that the interiors of the fortified walls contained 20 churches opposed to only 1 mosque (the Red Mosque for the Ottoman garrison - only the ruins are left). Entirely in theme, it also houses the Onufri Iconography Museum, in case religious icons excite you.
Fun Fact #1: The Berat Castle is depicted on the 1996 / 2000 / 2013 10-lek-coins. Fun Fact #2: You are charged an entry fee if you walk in from the main north-side entrance… but there are also three smaller unguarded entrances all around, where you can simply walk in for free (one is marked on Maps.me).
* To fully dive into this historical era, I recommend visiting the archaeological site of Dimal, down the banks of the Osumi River. This ancient city, which dates back to 200BC, played a vital role in the Illyrian-Roman War.
Kala
The Kala, also referred to as the Citadel, Old Town or Castle Quarter, is possibly the most prominent area of Berat, proudly towering above the city… providing hands down the best views in town. The Berat Castle, which has an extensive Roman and Byzantine history*, is remarkably well-preserved and contains an interesting conglomeration of ancient architecture, nowadays protected as cultural monuments. It’s quite interesting that people actually still live inside of the city walls. As this fortress-population was predominately Christian, it doesn’t come as a surprise that the interiors of the fortified walls contained 20 churches opposed to only 1 mosque (the Red Mosque for the Ottoman garrison - only the ruins are left). Entirely in theme, it also houses the Onufri Iconography Museum, in case religious icons excite you.
Fun Fact #1: The Berat Castle is depicted on the 1996 / 2000 / 2013 10-lek-coins. Fun Fact #2: You are charged an entry fee if you walk in from the main north-side entrance… but there are also three smaller unguarded entrances all around, where you can simply walk in for free (one is marked on Maps.me).
* To fully dive into this historical era, I recommend visiting the archaeological site of Dimal, down the banks of the Osumi River. This ancient city, which dates back to 200BC, played a vital role in the Illyrian-Roman War.
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Mangalem
The Kala area is tucked in between two historic neighbourhoods at the foot of the hill, sitting on opposite sides of the Osumi River and connected by the Gorica Bridge. On the northern side you’ll find the Mangalem area, which is traditionally Muslim. This section of the town could be considered the most distinctive of Berat, portrayed as one of its main images in travel guides and promotion materials alike. Expect to find traditional scenes of white stone houses bordering swirling alleys, the sun glimmering in early sunrise over the terracotta rooftops. Berat’s most significant mosques - the Sultan’s, Lead and Bachelor’s Mosque - are all situated within the Mangalem borders, as well as the Helveti Teqe. The what?! A “teqe / tekke” is a building complex where mystical religious rituals and teachings are performed in a secluded fashion, in order to eliminate external disturbances and allowing for internal growth and spiritual realization. The Helveti form an Islamic brotherhood of the Sufi order. The Helveti Teqe includes some delicate tilework as well as chambers with detailed carved wooden ceilings. There’s a second Teqe (Rüfai) in the Castle Quarter.
On the border of the Mangalem, on the way up to the castle, you can halt for a quick stop at the Ethnographic Museum. I’d say it’s optional. Sure, it provides a rapid insight in Albanian customs and traditional practices… but if you have already visited one of the many ethnographic museums elsewhere in the country, it adds very little to it, especially for the rather steep entry price they charge.
The Kala area is tucked in between two historic neighbourhoods at the foot of the hill, sitting on opposite sides of the Osumi River and connected by the Gorica Bridge. On the northern side you’ll find the Mangalem area, which is traditionally Muslim. This section of the town could be considered the most distinctive of Berat, portrayed as one of its main images in travel guides and promotion materials alike. Expect to find traditional scenes of white stone houses bordering swirling alleys, the sun glimmering in early sunrise over the terracotta rooftops. Berat’s most significant mosques - the Sultan’s, Lead and Bachelor’s Mosque - are all situated within the Mangalem borders, as well as the Helveti Teqe. The what?! A “teqe / tekke” is a building complex where mystical religious rituals and teachings are performed in a secluded fashion, in order to eliminate external disturbances and allowing for internal growth and spiritual realization. The Helveti form an Islamic brotherhood of the Sufi order. The Helveti Teqe includes some delicate tilework as well as chambers with detailed carved wooden ceilings. There’s a second Teqe (Rüfai) in the Castle Quarter.
On the border of the Mangalem, on the way up to the castle, you can halt for a quick stop at the Ethnographic Museum. I’d say it’s optional. Sure, it provides a rapid insight in Albanian customs and traditional practices… but if you have already visited one of the many ethnographic museums elsewhere in the country, it adds very little to it, especially for the rather steep entry price they charge.
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Gorica
From the Mangalem quarter you can easily cross the river to the Gorica-side of town, which has a similar appearance, but unfortunately less sunlight. This neighbourhood is entirely Christian, and as such includes sights like the St. Spiridon Basilica and Church of St. Thomas. It must be mentioned that Berat is one of the many cities in Albania where, surprisingly enough, Islam and Christianity have been coexisting in a more or less peaceful manner. The Gorica area underwent a thorough reconstruction after it was almost wiped off the face of the Earth by a severe earthquake in 1851. Since then, the lower area is defined by freely placed buildings, whereas the dwellings get tucked closer to one another the more you ascend up the hill.
Quick note on the bridge: According to legend, the foundations contain the remains of a young woman… who was buried alive inside to appease whatever cruel god supposedly ensured the construction’s strength over the centuries. That didn’t work though: It was knocked down numerous times by floods of the Osumi River, and subsequently severely damaged by explosions during WWI.
New Town
At last, you can obtain an entirely distinct experience by visiting the contemporary New Town, covering the recently built stretches as Berat further expanded (the town is surprisingly large and spread out)! If you’re keen on plunging into the local nightlife scene, you’ll find your kick on and around the vibrant Bulevardi Republika.
From the Mangalem quarter you can easily cross the river to the Gorica-side of town, which has a similar appearance, but unfortunately less sunlight. This neighbourhood is entirely Christian, and as such includes sights like the St. Spiridon Basilica and Church of St. Thomas. It must be mentioned that Berat is one of the many cities in Albania where, surprisingly enough, Islam and Christianity have been coexisting in a more or less peaceful manner. The Gorica area underwent a thorough reconstruction after it was almost wiped off the face of the Earth by a severe earthquake in 1851. Since then, the lower area is defined by freely placed buildings, whereas the dwellings get tucked closer to one another the more you ascend up the hill.
Quick note on the bridge: According to legend, the foundations contain the remains of a young woman… who was buried alive inside to appease whatever cruel god supposedly ensured the construction’s strength over the centuries. That didn’t work though: It was knocked down numerous times by floods of the Osumi River, and subsequently severely damaged by explosions during WWI.
New Town
At last, you can obtain an entirely distinct experience by visiting the contemporary New Town, covering the recently built stretches as Berat further expanded (the town is surprisingly large and spread out)! If you’re keen on plunging into the local nightlife scene, you’ll find your kick on and around the vibrant Bulevardi Republika.
Day Trips From Berat
Discovering Berat will demand at least 2 days of your travel time… but why stop there? If you truly planned your trip well, you made sure to rent a car to uncover the more hidden secrets of Albania. There are plenty of interesting sights scattered around Berat that are extremely complicated to visit by means of public transport. Personally, I strongly recommend hiring a vehicle at Rental Car Shokdra, with whom I have an excellent experience. They provided me with a reliable car, as well as readily available customer service matching the overall high level of friendliness and hospitality the Albanians are famous for.
Discovering Berat will demand at least 2 days of your travel time… but why stop there? If you truly planned your trip well, you made sure to rent a car to uncover the more hidden secrets of Albania. There are plenty of interesting sights scattered around Berat that are extremely complicated to visit by means of public transport. Personally, I strongly recommend hiring a vehicle at Rental Car Shokdra, with whom I have an excellent experience. They provided me with a reliable car, as well as readily available customer service matching the overall high level of friendliness and hospitality the Albanians are famous for.
Tomorr National Park
The #1 suggested daytrip is definitely the one towards Mount Tomorr. More than just another mountain to hike on, Tomorr has a strong symbolical and mythological meaning in Albanian folklore as well as in the Pagan, Christian and Islamic religions. Thousands of pilgrims flock around the mighty, rugged peak each year, ready to take on the strenuous hike up to the 2416m elevation. With its positioning in the centre of a flat plain, granting undisturbed views in all directions, ascending Mount Tomorr indeed provides for a true “Holy-Shit!-experience.” Be ready for a hike through dense deciduous and coniferous forests, along the habitats of endangered bears, wolves and birds of prey. Apparently, the area is also well-known for its frequent storms… which I experienced first-hand: During my visit I was tormented by a horizontal hailstorm slapping me right in the face and blocking all views… A real party-pooper for any hiking plans!
The logistics: It’s a good 1,5hr-drive from Berat, following the staggering Osumi Canyon (which continues until Çorovodë). When I visited, a comfy asphalt road was just finished, starting just before the village of Poliçan. I recommend backtracking on this road upon your return, as when you continue you’ll eventually end up on a very rough dirt road which isn’t too great to drive on. I'm talking out of experience, as we had to turn around.
Trails can be found here.
The #1 suggested daytrip is definitely the one towards Mount Tomorr. More than just another mountain to hike on, Tomorr has a strong symbolical and mythological meaning in Albanian folklore as well as in the Pagan, Christian and Islamic religions. Thousands of pilgrims flock around the mighty, rugged peak each year, ready to take on the strenuous hike up to the 2416m elevation. With its positioning in the centre of a flat plain, granting undisturbed views in all directions, ascending Mount Tomorr indeed provides for a true “Holy-Shit!-experience.” Be ready for a hike through dense deciduous and coniferous forests, along the habitats of endangered bears, wolves and birds of prey. Apparently, the area is also well-known for its frequent storms… which I experienced first-hand: During my visit I was tormented by a horizontal hailstorm slapping me right in the face and blocking all views… A real party-pooper for any hiking plans!
The logistics: It’s a good 1,5hr-drive from Berat, following the staggering Osumi Canyon (which continues until Çorovodë). When I visited, a comfy asphalt road was just finished, starting just before the village of Poliçan. I recommend backtracking on this road upon your return, as when you continue you’ll eventually end up on a very rough dirt road which isn’t too great to drive on. I'm talking out of experience, as we had to turn around.
Trails can be found here.
If you have more luck than me... this is what it could look like. Photo credits: Chasing the Donkey.
While on this Tomorr-roadtrip, you can return to Poliçan and potentially continue to the Bogovë Waterfall.
Wineries
The downside of visiting wineries is that they’re generally outside of the city center, and as such require a vehicle... which is a liability after some unavoidable drinking. The upside is that, well… they serve wine! In case you were able to arrange a designated driver, or are willing to get a cab/hitchhike, there are two main wineries at your disposal: Cabo and Nurellari.
[Whatever you do, avoid Kantina Luani – it’s merely a pub at a gas station, not a wine bar as we were led to believe]
Apollonia
Another intriguing stop is Apollonia, the archaeological remains of an ancient Greek trade colony which was founded by colonists from Corinth around 600 BC (upon invitation by the Illyrians). Over time, Apollonia gradually gained political independence from Corinth and was eventually organized as a city operating under an oligarchic system. When the Romans took over, the town turned into a crucial military staging ground, as well as a cultural center gaining fame for its prestigious school of philosophy… one of its students being Augustus, the fist Roman Emperor. The relevance of Apollonia began to decline in the 3d Century AD, when its harbor silted up due to an earthquake… and it was eventually fully abandoned in the 4th Century AD.
It's good to know that the site is very widespread, demanding a full hiking day for a complete exploration. The part that requires a 600 lek entry fee (discounts only available for Albanian citizens), is only 5% of entire Apollonia. This area does contain the most dense collection of archaeological restored remains, incl. a small museum. You don’t have to pay for this if you don’t want to… you can also simply drive to the village of Pojan, and walk up the hill from the other side, which isn't gated. With my background of 6 years studying Greek and Roman civilization I quite enjoyed this daytrip, but I must add that I didn’t think the restorations were done in a very pleasing manner: The missing parts were simply filled up with red bricks and cement, completely out of line with the original colors and materials and as such, failing to recreate the foregone appearance. The information signs are written in such flawed English that it is impossible to follow any storyline or explanation, and the provided location-maps are actually mirrored, which is thoroughly confusing. In short: It’s an interesting spot, with lots of room for improvement.
Another part of the site, not mentioned anywhere on-site or online, is an obsolete communist Cold War Tunnel forming a gigantic underground labyrinth. I randomly stumbled upon it and couldn’t believe my eyes! If you want to have a gander, just search for the hill on the left side from the main entrance… It’s actually that entire hill which forms the tunnel complex, not giving anything away from the outside. From the hilltop also stare at the opposite mountain range. The observing eye can trace down some openings, which were in fact the ammunition storages, even hiding tanks. What an awesome find!
While on this Tomorr-roadtrip, you can return to Poliçan and potentially continue to the Bogovë Waterfall.
Wineries
The downside of visiting wineries is that they’re generally outside of the city center, and as such require a vehicle... which is a liability after some unavoidable drinking. The upside is that, well… they serve wine! In case you were able to arrange a designated driver, or are willing to get a cab/hitchhike, there are two main wineries at your disposal: Cabo and Nurellari.
[Whatever you do, avoid Kantina Luani – it’s merely a pub at a gas station, not a wine bar as we were led to believe]
Apollonia
Another intriguing stop is Apollonia, the archaeological remains of an ancient Greek trade colony which was founded by colonists from Corinth around 600 BC (upon invitation by the Illyrians). Over time, Apollonia gradually gained political independence from Corinth and was eventually organized as a city operating under an oligarchic system. When the Romans took over, the town turned into a crucial military staging ground, as well as a cultural center gaining fame for its prestigious school of philosophy… one of its students being Augustus, the fist Roman Emperor. The relevance of Apollonia began to decline in the 3d Century AD, when its harbor silted up due to an earthquake… and it was eventually fully abandoned in the 4th Century AD.
It's good to know that the site is very widespread, demanding a full hiking day for a complete exploration. The part that requires a 600 lek entry fee (discounts only available for Albanian citizens), is only 5% of entire Apollonia. This area does contain the most dense collection of archaeological restored remains, incl. a small museum. You don’t have to pay for this if you don’t want to… you can also simply drive to the village of Pojan, and walk up the hill from the other side, which isn't gated. With my background of 6 years studying Greek and Roman civilization I quite enjoyed this daytrip, but I must add that I didn’t think the restorations were done in a very pleasing manner: The missing parts were simply filled up with red bricks and cement, completely out of line with the original colors and materials and as such, failing to recreate the foregone appearance. The information signs are written in such flawed English that it is impossible to follow any storyline or explanation, and the provided location-maps are actually mirrored, which is thoroughly confusing. In short: It’s an interesting spot, with lots of room for improvement.
Another part of the site, not mentioned anywhere on-site or online, is an obsolete communist Cold War Tunnel forming a gigantic underground labyrinth. I randomly stumbled upon it and couldn’t believe my eyes! If you want to have a gander, just search for the hill on the left side from the main entrance… It’s actually that entire hill which forms the tunnel complex, not giving anything away from the outside. From the hilltop also stare at the opposite mountain range. The observing eye can trace down some openings, which were in fact the ammunition storages, even hiding tanks. What an awesome find!
Quick Budget Fact Overview
Albania Facts
History Recap
1000BC: Illyrians (Indo-European tribesmen). Country name from an Illyrian tribe: Arber / Albanoi. 165BC: Illyria under control Romans. 44BC: Caesar began building a colony at Butrint. 1-100: Christianity. 300-700: Goths, Huns, Avars, Serbs, Croats, and Bulgars successively invade Illyrian lands. 395: Division of Roman Empire à present-day Albania under Eastern Byzantine Empire. 700-800: Slav tribes settle. 1054: Roman and Orthodox Churches split (Orthodox don’t accept papal authority Rome). 1100-1200: Serbs occupied parts of Albania. 1204: Venice won control over most of Albania, but Byzantines regained control of south. 1385: Albanian ruler invited Ottoman forces to intervene against a rival in Battle of Savra. Start of slow expansion Ottoman Rule. 1403: Gjergj Kastrioti born: Albanian hero known as Skanderbeg who organized resistance to Ottomans in Krujë (repulsed 12 invasions) and kept Albania independent for 20+ years. ’68: Skanderbeg died and the Turks absorbed Albania into the Ottoman Empire. Conversion to Islam. 1614: Ottoman general Sulayman Pasha named Tehran (later Tirana) as the capital, after Iran’s. 1822: Albanian leader Ali Pasha was assassinated by Ottomans for promoting autonomy. ’61: First school known to use Albanian language opened in Shkodër. ‘78: Treaty of San Stefano / Treaty of Berlin: Ending Russo-Turkish War (Ottoman Empire lost numerous territories) & Divided Balkans among European powers. 1910: Mother Teresa born to an ethnic Albanian family in Skopje, Macedonia. ’12: First Balkan War (Balkan countries against Ottomans). Nov 28: Independence of Albania declared. ‘13: End First Balkan War with Treaty of London, beginning of Second Balkan War. Albania recognized as independent state: Demographics were ignored, half Albanian inhabited territories divided among Montenegro, Serbia and Greece. 1914-’18: WWI - Italian occupation. ’28: Albania kingdom under Zogu / parliament dissolved.’37: Italian occupation. ’39: WWII: Italian invasion and annexation (King Zogu fled to Greece). ‘41: Enver Hoxha becomes head of new Communist Party. ’43: German forces invade à ’44: withdraw after Communist resistance. Hoxha new leader: Brutal Stalinist rule for 40 years, mass murders, people being unable to enter or exit Albania. SU and China ties broken over ideologist ideas.’67: Limitation religious activity; Albania declared world's first atheist state. ’85: Hoxha dies. ’89: Communist rule in Eastern Europe collapses. ’90: Albanians granted right to travel abroad. Many flee. ’98: Kosovaran refugee exodus into Albania. ’03: First talks towards EU membership. ’09: Joins NATO and formally applies for EU membership --> rejected in ’10.
Albania Facts
- Capital: Tirana (Tiranë)
- Population: ± 2.8 mln (Berat: ± 60,000)
- Language: Albanian
- Sq km: ± 28.748 (Berat: 6.3)
- Currency: Lek (ALL - L)
- Electricity Outlet: C /F /E, 230v, 50Hz (standard European – check here)
- Country Code Phone: +355 84
- Emergency Phone: 112 (general), 127 (ambulance), 128 (fire), 112 (police)
- Visa: Check out the visa requirements here
- Vaccinations: Covid / Hep-A / Hep-B / Routine Vaccines
- Climate: Hot-Summer Mediterranean (Csa)
- High season: June-September.
History Recap
1000BC: Illyrians (Indo-European tribesmen). Country name from an Illyrian tribe: Arber / Albanoi. 165BC: Illyria under control Romans. 44BC: Caesar began building a colony at Butrint. 1-100: Christianity. 300-700: Goths, Huns, Avars, Serbs, Croats, and Bulgars successively invade Illyrian lands. 395: Division of Roman Empire à present-day Albania under Eastern Byzantine Empire. 700-800: Slav tribes settle. 1054: Roman and Orthodox Churches split (Orthodox don’t accept papal authority Rome). 1100-1200: Serbs occupied parts of Albania. 1204: Venice won control over most of Albania, but Byzantines regained control of south. 1385: Albanian ruler invited Ottoman forces to intervene against a rival in Battle of Savra. Start of slow expansion Ottoman Rule. 1403: Gjergj Kastrioti born: Albanian hero known as Skanderbeg who organized resistance to Ottomans in Krujë (repulsed 12 invasions) and kept Albania independent for 20+ years. ’68: Skanderbeg died and the Turks absorbed Albania into the Ottoman Empire. Conversion to Islam. 1614: Ottoman general Sulayman Pasha named Tehran (later Tirana) as the capital, after Iran’s. 1822: Albanian leader Ali Pasha was assassinated by Ottomans for promoting autonomy. ’61: First school known to use Albanian language opened in Shkodër. ‘78: Treaty of San Stefano / Treaty of Berlin: Ending Russo-Turkish War (Ottoman Empire lost numerous territories) & Divided Balkans among European powers. 1910: Mother Teresa born to an ethnic Albanian family in Skopje, Macedonia. ’12: First Balkan War (Balkan countries against Ottomans). Nov 28: Independence of Albania declared. ‘13: End First Balkan War with Treaty of London, beginning of Second Balkan War. Albania recognized as independent state: Demographics were ignored, half Albanian inhabited territories divided among Montenegro, Serbia and Greece. 1914-’18: WWI - Italian occupation. ’28: Albania kingdom under Zogu / parliament dissolved.’37: Italian occupation. ’39: WWII: Italian invasion and annexation (King Zogu fled to Greece). ‘41: Enver Hoxha becomes head of new Communist Party. ’43: German forces invade à ’44: withdraw after Communist resistance. Hoxha new leader: Brutal Stalinist rule for 40 years, mass murders, people being unable to enter or exit Albania. SU and China ties broken over ideologist ideas.’67: Limitation religious activity; Albania declared world's first atheist state. ’85: Hoxha dies. ’89: Communist rule in Eastern Europe collapses. ’90: Albanians granted right to travel abroad. Many flee. ’98: Kosovaran refugee exodus into Albania. ’03: First talks towards EU membership. ’09: Joins NATO and formally applies for EU membership --> rejected in ’10.
Photo by Miles Watson Photography.
FREE Recommended Sights / Activities*
PAID Recommended Sights / Activities*
Evening Entertainment
Local Festivals
FREE Recommended Sights / Activities*
- Sights: Mangalem Quarter; Gorica Quarter; Church of the Holy Trinity; Church of St. Mary of Vllaherna; Church of St Mitri; Lead / Izgurli Mosque; Sultan / King Mosque; Bachelor Mosque; Red Mosque Ruins; Bulevardi Republika; Sufi Teques: Rüfai & Helveti.
- Hikes / Nature: Tomorr Mountain National Park; Osumi Canyon (until Çorovodë); Gorica Hill; Bogove Waterfall.
PAID Recommended Sights / Activities*
- Sights: Berat Castle (Kala) and Citadel / Old Town (can be entered for free from all sights but the main entrance); Church of St. Spiridon; Dimal Antic City.
- Museums: National Ethnographic Museum of Berat; Onufri Iconography Museum.
- Other: Cobo Winery; Apollonia (1hr)
Evening Entertainment
- Nightlife Areas: Bulevardi Republika.
Local Festivals
- Multicultural Festival of Berat (Festivali Multikulturor) – July.
- Roshniku Festival (folklore) – September.
- Vesta e Veres (wine) – September.
Photo by Miles Watson Photography.
Budget Bites
Sleep Cheap
Budget Bites
- Bigger Supermarkets: Conad, Big.
- Local Dishes: Fërgesë (stew); Byrek (stuffed pastry); Tavë Kosi (baked lamb/chicken in yoghurt); Kackavall Në Furrë Me Domate (baked cheese with tomatoes); Speca Me Gjize (cheese-stuffed bell peppers); Speca te Mbushur me Oriz (stuffed bellpeppers with rice); Gjel Deti me Përshesh (baked turkey with bread mash); Peshk Dhe Pherime Ne Tave (fish and veg); Flija (baked crepes); Jani Me Fasule (white bean soup); Qofte (lamb meat balls); Tave Mishi (mixed grill); Sarme (cabbage rolls stuffed with rice and meat); Qifqi (fried rice balls); Pispili (cornbread with leek); Trilece (cake); Ashure (dessert); Petulla (fried dough).
- The Veg Situation: Going vegetarian is rather easy in Albania, but going vegan is next to impossible as milk / egg is in all that remains. There are luckily quite some local vegetarian dishes, some already explained above. Local veg dishes: Fërgesë verorë (summer version); Byrek (choose cheese or spinach); Kackavall Në Furrë Me Domate; Speca Me Gjize; Speca te Mbushur me Oriz; Flija; Jani Me Fasule; Tave Mishi (vegan); Jufka (pasta cooked in butter); Ima lam Bajalldi (eggplant cooked in oven - vegan); Turli (vegetables stew - vegan); Tarator (cold soup); Salce Kosi (yoghurt sauce); Qifqi; Pispili; Trilece; Ashure; Petulla. You can find the vegetarian restaurants of Berat here.
- National Drink: Rakia. Some local beer brands include Birra Korca, Bira Tirana and Birra Stela. Albania has wine production, but not as prominent as in Montenegro or Macedonia.
Sleep Cheap
- Hostels / Hotels: are relatively cheap in Albania compared to the rest of Europe, although more expensive than in other Balkan countries such as Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzegovina and Serbia. I personally found the best deals on Booking.com, which is generally cheaper than Air BnB listings here. If you use it often enough, Genius-discounts are applied. A nuisance in Albania is that once you booked, that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s actually confirmed: In my case, often the booking was immediately denied by the owner (or you’re not informed at all and show up in front of a closed door): Always call/email to confirm 100%. Payment generally happens on-site in cash. Writer’s choice: Guesthouse Emiljano, which was budget-friendly, had an incredible location right next to the Berat Castle, a friendly hostess and mouth-watering breakfast.
- Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost (unless you put a third-world country as homebase), but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate review explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your potential host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored).
- Housesitting: is an amazing exchange allowing you to stay short- or long-term in somebody’s house, while looking after their property and pets. There are many different websites, most of them paid, the main one being Trusted Housesitters… but once you landed a sit, the subscription fee pays itself back quickly. ‘
Mama Said
Transport
Next?
- Safety: Don’t believe the gossip of people who never actually been here: Albania is safe! Crime rates are low and the level of hospitality is heart-warming. People go out of their way to make you feel welcome and assist you in any way they can. Of course, like everywhere in the world, use your common sense: Don’t walk alone in remote areas after sunset, don’t take valuables along etc.
- Tap Water: is drinkable.
- Don’t speak Albanian? Your Italian language skills might help! Due to long, recent occupation periods by Italians (check the History Recap) many Albanians speak some basic Italian.
- The only bank that doesn’t charge an ATM fee is Credins Bank.
Transport
- Walking: The centre of Berat is rather compact, and most sights can be reached on foot. However, the area around the castle requires a steep hike up.
- Cycling: Cycling is possible around this area. Keep in mind though that Albanian drivers aren’t as used to cyclists as elsewhere in Europe and dangerous situations might arise.
- City Buses / Tram / Metro: Berat has some local bus lines, but apps such as Google Maps and Moovit don’t work here, so you will have to ask around. From the intercity bus station you can catch the blue bus #1 to the city center.
- Taxi / Uber: Taxis can be hailed down on the street and are affordable. Negotiate the price in advance, or asked to have the meter turned on.
- Intercity Buses: Bus schedules vary constantly and online info is unreliable, so I recommend buying bus tickets a day in advance at the bus station to be certain of the available departure times. Berat’s main bus station, the Terminali i Autobusave, is located 2km outside of town.
- Train: Not available.
- Car Rental: Rental Shkodra is strongly recommended for full flexibility and the ability to visit Berat’s beautiful surroundings. Cars can be picked up and dropped off in both Tirana and Shkodër.
- Airport: Tirana International Airport (TIA).
- Hitchhiking: is relatively safe in Albania, and especially in the countryside you can see even locals doing it. As Berat is small, it’s no too difficult to walk to the correct road to hitchhike on. Find more info on Hitchwiki. Take into account that English is not widely spoken (Italian is!), so chit-chat might be complicated.
Next?
- National Destinations Close By: Çorovodë, Vlorë, Apollonia, Tirana, Durrës, Gjirokastër, Pogradec.
- International Destinations Close By: Macedonia, Kosovo, Montenegro, Greece, Italy.
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- Get your Albania itinerary ready: Berat, Gjirokastër, Korcë / Ohrid Lake, Theth, Shkodër, Tirana, Mount Korab & the coast!
- Check out Budget Bucket List's FAVORITE HIKING DESTINATIONS worldwide!
- Visit Balkan's finest: Montenegro's National Parks Blog, Kotor Bay & Lovcen NP and Cetinje, Podgorica, Prokletije NP and Montenegro's Coastal Towns Blog
- Destinations of Hungary: Balaton Lake, Budapest and Szekesfehervar
- 10 typical Dutch celebrations no traveller should miss out on
- Get deep into Greece: Athens, Delphi, Arachova, Mount Parnassos NP, Epirus, Meteora, Thessaloniki & Volos
- Archeological treasures, UNESCO sights and Greece's roughest nature: Explore the Peloponnese!
- History preserved: Time capsule of Romanian culture Maramures
- Be about Bulgaria: Check off Bansko, Belogradchik, Plovdiv, Sofia and of course Veliko Tarnovo!
- Where modern meets classic: Vilnius, Lithuania
- 8 ways to save money in Vienna, Austria
- German gems: Aachen & Frankfurt am Main
- Europe's best skiing & hiking: Get your ass over to jaw-dropping Switzerland!
- Budget Bucket List hitchhike trip to... Kosovo!
- Unravel the mysteries of Serbia
- Discover the splendours of Turkey: Istanbul on a Budget & Reasons to visit Edirne
- Get your Albania itinerary ready: Berat, Gjirokastër, Korcë / Ohrid Lake, Theth, Shkodër, Tirana, Mount Korab & the coast!
- Check out Budget Bucket List's FAVORITE HIKING DESTINATIONS worldwide!
- Visit Balkan's finest: Montenegro's National Parks Blog, Kotor Bay & Lovcen NP and Cetinje, Podgorica, Prokletije NP and Montenegro's Coastal Towns Blog
- Destinations of Hungary: Balaton Lake, Budapest and Szekesfehervar
- 10 typical Dutch celebrations no traveller should miss out on
- Get deep into Greece: Athens, Delphi, Arachova, Mount Parnassos NP, Epirus, Meteora, Thessaloniki & Volos
- Archeological treasures, UNESCO sights and Greece's roughest nature: Explore the Peloponnese!
- History preserved: Time capsule of Romanian culture Maramures
- Be about Bulgaria: Check off Bansko, Belogradchik, Plovdiv, Sofia and of course Veliko Tarnovo!
- Where modern meets classic: Vilnius, Lithuania
- 8 ways to save money in Vienna, Austria
- German gems: Aachen & Frankfurt am Main
- Europe's best skiing & hiking: Get your ass over to jaw-dropping Switzerland!
- Budget Bucket List hitchhike trip to... Kosovo!
- Unravel the mysteries of Serbia
- Discover the splendours of Turkey: Istanbul on a Budget & Reasons to visit Edirne