Tartu

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If a country has two cities with the stature of Tallinn and Tartu, typically a comparison-article is in place. A classic, who wins, the fancy-pants cosmopolitan capital or the student’esque bohemian underdog? However, when it comes to Estonia, this is highly unnecessary. We’re facing a win-win-situation, as both cities deserve equal appraisal, forming two unmissable elements of any visit to the Baltics. None replaces the other, even though both possess a similar charm.

I loved Tartu. I loved everything about it. It’s one of those cities that gets the ultimate recipe down, deliciously combing all the right ingredients that create a close to irresistible flavor: High-class aesthetics with an easy-going elegance, effortlessly combining neoclassical architecture with satirical street art and kooky statues… The streets are filled with an unpretentious atmosphere, while getting away with simultaneously going way overboard on the culture and arts. A student character with all its budget advantages, but without ever feeling sloppy or rundown. Tartu comes without pressure, but you’ll experience a considerable difficulty to peel yourself away from it.

A love story:

Tartu’s Freebies

You clicked a blog called “Budget Bucket List”, so let’s assume this wasn’t entirely at random. Luckily, in Tartu, budget travel is an achievable goal, whereas in Tallinn this can come with certain challenges. First of all, because Tartu is a student town, which means local businesses and restaurants cater to meals and night’s out which are affordable to the city’s biggest target group. Walking around the downtown area, I was pleasantly surprised to see the rather affordable menu’s advertised to lure in any thirsty or hungry graduate, generally with big brains but slim wallets. Of course, the university itself, the oldest one of the country (1632), is a sight that can’t possibly be skipped. Not only does it determine the city’s character and local population statistics, it quite literally shaped the face of the city by letting its own architects build its estates and student housing, giving the Old Town its Neoclassical appearance. You don’t need to be a student to go inside of the University of Tartu buildings, anyone can just pop in and have a look at the architecture and ongoing temporary exhibitions. Also the Botanical Garden of the university is open to anyone. The different museums, however, require an entrance ticket.

Another playful connotation to Tartu’s student flair stands on the central square in front of the Town Hall (the most iconic building in the Old Town area): The Kissing Students Fountain. Unfortunately, during the time of my visit, it was under construction in the prelude of Tartu’s year as the European Capital of Culture, elected to be so by the European Union. A worthy title!

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Of course, the Old Town is the sparkling highlight of the city… but I can always appreciate the antipode as well. The slums, shanty town, where life gets more and more real as it approaches the pure basics. In Tartu this is… or used to be Supilinn, literally translated as “Soup Town”, derived from the streets named after ingredients (like Kartuli - Potato, Herne - Pea, Oa - Bean). The barrio sprouted up around the area of the A Le Coq Brewery (still in operation and open to visitors), with its houses built in the swamps of the Emajogi River Bank to accommodate the impoverished factory workers. Over the years, its muddy streets grew in popularity among the students, who besides cheap housing also could appreciate the area “where booze was more plentiful than drinking water.” Understandably, this lead to an effective cultural gentrification. The characteristic wooden houses still stand, but the bad sanitation and below-average living conditions made space for bohemian eateries and fashionable residents.

Another street that caught my positive attention is Kartani, where a new-age creative hub of co-working spaces, street art murals and organic vegan bistros is hiding behind a facade of historical architectonics and heritage (on the crossing with Riia street).

Less hip, but definitely organic is the Tartu Market Hall right next to the recognizable Rahu Sild Pedestrian Bridge. In the increasingly expensive country of Estonia, this is a welcome exception where dirt-cheap veg, bread and meat are on offer, and coffees can be sipped away for a buck instead of 3.50 (anno 2023).

Another unmissable element of the Tartu identity is formed by the dense collection of monuments and statues, which can fill a day if you wish to visit all of them. My interest was drawn by the statue of one of my favorite writers, Oscar Wilde. I was therefore quite disappointed to learn that he had absolutely zero connection with the city, besides the Irish fanboy who decided to name his pub (and now also an apartment complex) after the artist. Lame. Another one which I initially thought was incredibly lame as well is the Memorial to the First Estonian Song Festival, which I assumed referred to this cheesy European television competition of absolutely unlistenable pop songs, which somehow is incredibly popular in the Baltics. But no, luckily it refers to a national event, of which the lameness remains yet to be judged. I recommend to check out a bunch of other odd ones, such as the Bronze Pig Sculpture, or the extremely uncomfortable representation of a man and a same-sized baby: the Father and Son Sculpture. The Karl Ernst von Baer Statue, honoring one of Estonia’s most important scientists, is yearly showered with champagne on Walpurgis Night (30-April). Yeah, I know, Tartu is fucking weird… which increases my respect for the city to an even higher level.

Consider yourself an influencer? Well first of all, then I already don’t like you before even meeting you, but second of all, you should then probably go to the Tartu Cathedral. Or the ruins of it, situated in Toome Hill Park.* It’s a pretty photogenic leftover of a building, which has been in decayed state since the mid-1520s, the years of Reformation. The Estonians aren’t particularly religious and I love them for it. Therefore, other churches, such as the St. John’s, St. Peter’s and the Roman Catholic Church of the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary will probably “welcome” you with closed doors, but the architecture can be appreciated from the outside. Additionally, museums are all paid outings in Tartu, with the exception of exhibitions in the Noora National Archives, which demands a visit for its building alone.

* Other free natural escapes: Maksa Manor Park, Emajoe-Suurso Hiking Trails, Laaniste Hiking Trail, Jarvselja Hiking Trail, Ahunapalu-Virvissaare Hiking Trail, Selgise Biking Trail.

Paid Attractions - Yay!

Where were we? Alright, I just told you that most museums were paid endeavours. That said, it’s the museums that make Tartu, the sheer collections of them elevating the city to a Capital-of-Culture-worthy level! So I recommend visiting at least some of them, focusing on those that can be considered unique to the city. The most prominent, inescapable one being of course the Estonian National Museum. I’s in fact Tartu, not Tallinn, that hosts the country’s biggest museum! With no less than 6000 square meters of exhibition space it has the most comprehensive collection of artefacts representing and capturing the essence of Estonian tradition, history and culture. You need at least half a day for a visit, and you will want to dedicate that time to it in order to make it worth the considerable entrance price.

(on the side of it you can find the Tagurpidi Maja (upside down house)… which just seems one of those gimmicky tourist attraction that can easily be skipped.)

Another compelling one is the Tartu Art Museum, home of Tartu’s undeniable talent, like Vardi, Vabbe, Kits, Raud, Saal, Simson, Vallimae-Mark and Tegova.* Yes, a long list, I paid attention. I am an art lover as well as an art cynic. I can get incredibly excited when seeing gifted pieces, but my annoyance is unlevelled if I witness anything resembling a concretization of an uninspired brainfart. There’s no pretending from my side that works resembling children hobby projects are in fact valued pieces that the simpler folks just don’t recognize. That’s just good marketing at the cost of the rich and feebleminded, for which chapeau, but they don’t fool me. Anyway, a completely unnecessary rant to show my appreciation for the pieces in this museum. I guess that’s a sign that you should go, if it triggers this many emotions in me. Here’s a quote I found in the museum, to shut me up:

"Why can't we admit that we have two schools in our art life: one in Tartu and one in Tallinn? That understanding would allow us to comprehend and explain more clearly phenomena and their connections in Estonian art. [...] It seems that artists from Tallinn are characterised by rationality and reason. They are dominated by stringent, maybe even grim and tragic moods. When it comes to artists from Tartu, we could, instead, talk about warmth and joyfulness. Their painterly approach seems to be more intuitive and intimate."

* And in lesser degree: Muks, Kongo, Sepp, Volmere, Aiki, Puttsepp, Suuman, Anni, Pudersell, Uiga, Karner and Malin.

Did you know that Estonia (currently) has two UNESCO World Heritage Sites subscribed to the list? One is the Old Town of Tallinn, and the other is the Geodetic Arc in Tartu.* The geo-what? Right, sorry: So there was this guy called Friedrich Georg Wilhelm von Struve who figured that a series of survey triangulations (measure points) could facilitate the accurate measuring of the Earth’s meridian. So he went ahead and rolled with it: In between 1816 and 1855 he created a stretch of 258 main triangles and 265 geodetic points over the length of 2820 kilometers, from the tip of Norway all the way through the Baltics and into Belarus and Ukraine. A massive scientific undertaking changing the fields of geography, geodetic measurements and cartography forever. In short, we are able to determine the exact size and shape of Earth because of this. And if you don’t think that’s pretty fucking cool, go out of my face right now. Anyway, it was at the Observatory of the University of Tartu that Struve conceived this brilliant idea, and where one of the geodetic arcs can be found as well. A must-visit! Honestly, you can see it for free, as the point of the arc is situated right in the main hall before the ticket booth. That said, if you feel like checking out some ancient telescopes or want to explore the other three astronomic discoveries of Estonia, then a visit is suggested (spoiler: the distance measurements towards the stars, the neighbouring Andromeda Nebula galaxy, and the structure of the Universe). Oh, and they have a bunch of meteors too. Did you know that 90mln meteors fall towards our planet every day?? No? Yet another reason to visit.

* …and in two other locations, incl. Voivere and Simuna. I also visited the latter.

More museums? Yes, the supply is seemingly endless in Tartu. But you can wrap it up with one extra to the list of recommendations: The University of Tartu History Museum. Unlike the “normal” Tartu City Museum, which is just a waste of time and space, this one is extremely elaborate and well done. It’s just a beautiful museum, with gorgeously laid out exhibitions, a thrilling variety and a replica of the former university library making you wonder if you accidentally entered Hogwarts. If you’ve got some extra time on your hands, I recommend walking to the main university building to also visit the Student Lock-Up. This “university prison” was used until the early 20th century for detentions from a day up to three weeks. Students serving a long punishent were provided only bread and water on the first and last day. Many locked-up students entertained themselves by drawing, or by writing verses or their initials on the walls of the lock-up. There used to be five of them, but only one survived after the fire in 1965. It has been restored and offers a glimpse into the university's fascinating history. The following acts were punishable by lock-up: Unpaid debt (1-2 days); Hiding one's name and social class (2 days); Disorderly conduct in the theatre (1-8 days); Failure to return library books (2 days); Smoking inside university buildings (2-3 days); Breaking a window (3 days); Breaking and entering (3-10 days); Offending a lady (4 days); Offending the main building's porter 5 days; Riding on Toome Hill (5 days); Participation in a fight (5 days to 3 weeks); Swearing (6-8 days); Cheating a shopkeeper (6-8 days); Duelling (3 weeks). Duelling! Like an absolute boss! Three weeks seems a small price to pay for a story of a lifetime.

You did well, four museums, look at you all culturally defined and well-educated. Time to get shitfaced while listening to live music. No, just joking… or am I? By all means, Möku is your spot. I went for a local black folk metal night, but I understand you might want to go for something more easily digestible. Find their program here (just turn automatic translate on). https://moku.ee/

Paid Attractions – Nay!

Unless you live here, nobody has unlimited time on their hands. So you want to weed out your options. Now, I already told you about my favorites. Then there is a whole sequence of museums* that I have no strong opinions about, as I didn’t care to visit… but then there are a few that definitely didn’t make any memorable experiences. Such as the Tartu City Museum. What a wet fart of a museum is that! I got in for free (round of applause for the journalist pass) and I felt cheated… I cannot imagine paying for this half-arsed incomplete collection and downright sleep-inducing presentation. I felt like I aimlessly got thrown different fractions of Tartu’s history at me, supported by random objects, without having the slightest idea of some sort of timeline or relevance. Just read the Wikipedia page, man, time better spent.

I also didn’t have a swell time at the Estonian Sports and Olympic Museum**. The museum an sich was fine, balancing an informational element with an interactive sport experience… but that was simultaneously the problem. The place has got the presentation of some kind of “educational playground”, causing all the modern urbanites to drag their 1001 kids inside. With the risk of sounding like a grumpy 30-something-year-old that very purposefully chose not to have kids: How are you supposed to read an information display with little brats running around you and screaming in hundred tones and intervals. I don’t need this in my life. So I decided to not go to the AHHAA Science Center, for great fear of a similar situation (but I can neither confirm or deny it). It does have the world’s largest Hoberman sphere, but I’m not going to pretend to know what that is.***

I thought the University of Tartu History Museum was a great joy to visit. However, the University of Tartu Art Museum was rather underwhelming. The biggest chunk was a collection of bright white replicas for educational purposes. I’m sorry, but if I visit a museum, I want original stuff… that’s why they are in a museum… to safely exhibit unique artefacts to the public, am I correct? That said, there are two children mummies on display, which pleasantly spiked my adrenaline.

* Other museums of Tartu: Typa Papermaking Museum, Tartu Toy Museum, University of Tartu Natural History Museum, Le Coq Beer Museum, Ice Age Centre, KGB Cells Museum, 19th Century Citizen Museum, Kolkja Museum of Old Believers, Estonian Folk Museum, Estonian Literary Museum, Postmuseum, Oskar Luts House Museum, Baer House Museum, Song Festival Museum, Tarty Nature House, Museum-Room of the Finnish Boys. If you intend to visit may museums, you can buy an Estonian Museum Card here https://muuseumikaart.ee/en/buy-museum-card (valid for a full year).

** Fun fact: Wrestler Martin Klein set a Guinness World Record in 1912 at the Stockholm Olympics (when Estonia belonged to the Russian Empire). With 11:40 hours he played and won the longest wrestling match in Olympic history. The first Olympic gold was won in 1992… when subsequently the Estonian flag was hoisted upside down during the ceremony.

*** Quick Googling: A Hoberman sphere is an isokinetic structure that resembles a geodesic dome, but with the capability of folding down into a fraction of its normal size by the scissor-like action of its joints. Like those kid’s toys!

Quick Budget Fact Overview

Estonia Facts

Capital: Tallinn
Language: Estonian
Population: ± 1.3 mln
Sq km: ± 45,339
Currency: Euro (€ - EUR)
Electricity Outlet: C + F / 230 V / 50 Hz. Check here.
Country Code Phone: +372
Emergency Phone: 112
Visa: Schengen visa (Estonia is part of the EU). Easy visa application here.
Vaccinations: None, although it’s recommended to get vaccinated against tick-borne encephalitis and Lyme disease if you plan to spend a lot of time in the forests, as this is rather common in the Baltics (I personally caught Lyme disease in Estonia but detected it early, so I could get it treated with antibiotics)
Climate: Cold Winter Humid Continental Climate (Dfb)
High season: July-August

Short History Recap

11000-9000BC: End Glacial Era → Pulli settlement, on the banks of the Pärnu River. 6500BC: Kunda culture establishes fishing and hunting communities in north. 5300-1750BC: Narva culture → mainly fishers, hunters & gatherers. 500BC: Iron works start. 100: Roman senator Tacitus uses the name Estonia for the 1st time to describe region. 100-600: Coastal settlements. Wind worshipping religion. 750: Battle of Bråvalla → Estonians & Swedes battle against Danes. 790: Viking Era (most Estonian Vikings are Oeselians). 1206: Start Danish Era → in response to frequent raids by Oeselian Vikings, the Danes strike back → King Valdemar II conquers Saaremaa & expands on Estonian territory. ’08: Baltic Crusades by Germans, converting Estonia to Christianity. ’20: Control divided between Danes in the north & (Germanic) Livonian Brothers of the Sword in south. 1343: St. George’s Night Uprising → unsuccessful attempt to overthrow Danes. ’46: Estonia (and Latvia) sold to German Teutonic Order, defeated in 1410. 1410-1558: Livionian Wars over territory. Local population declines to 120,000. 1558: Swedish protection. Estonian land privatised, Baltic Germans arrive. 1700: Battle of Narva on Estonian ground between Sweden & Russia. ’10: Sweden’s defeat → Estonia incorporated into Russian Empire. 1850: Estonian Age of Awakening = nationalist movement. ’90: Russification policy, only strengthens nationalism. 1918: Independence from Russia. ’20: Peace treaty with Russia. ’34: Prime Minister Pats’ bloodless coup establishes authoritarian rule. ’38: Pats president. ’39: Soviet Union (SU) military bases in Estonia. ’40: SU troops arrive. Estonia incorporated into SU (Estonia was neutral in WWII, but SU is not). ’41: German Nazi troops invade. ’44: Estonia reannexed by SU when German forces retreat. 10,000s Estonians deported to Siberia and Central Asia. ‘60s: Some deported Estonians allowed to return. ’88: Democratic vibes. ’87-’91: Singing Revolution in all Baltic states: demonstrations of spontaneous singing of banned hymns and songs. ’91: Communist rule collapses. Soviet government recognizes independence of the Baltic Republics. ’94: Partnership for Peace → limited military cooperation with Nato. ’97: EU negotiations. ’98: Changes in citizen laws to encourage Russian-speaking minority to become Estonian. 2002: EU invites Estonia. Overwhelming referendum votes in favor of joining. ’04: Nato. Officially joins EU. ’05: Estonia & Russia sign treaty delineating border. Russia withdraws in response to dispute over treatment of Soviet past. ’07: Law prohibiting display of monuments glorifying Soviet rule. ’11: Euro as currency. ’14: Estonia & Russia sign a new treaty ending border dispute. Nato presence rises in Baltics. ’21: Kaja Kallas 1st female prime minister. ’22: Estonia gives military and political support to Ukraine after Russian invasion.

FREE Sights / Activities

Sights: Old Town, Tartu Town Hall Square, Tartu University, Supilinn / Soup Town Area, Noora National Archives Building, The Kissing Students Sculpture and Fountain, Sculpture Bronze Pig, Father and Son Sculpture, Monument to Eduard Tubin, Oscar Wilde Sculpture, Oskar Luts Statue, Karl Ernst von Baer Statue (yearly sprinkled with champagne by students), Memorial to First Estonian Song Festival, Cornflower Monument to the Victims of Stalinism, Model of Kivisild, Devil’s Bridge (Kuradisild), Angel’s Bridge (Inglisild), Freedom Bridge, Ropka Manor, Tahtvere Manor, Karlova Manor, Luke Manor, Kukulinna Manor, Tammistu Manor, Tartu Cathedral, St. John’s Church, St. Peter’s Church, Roman Catholic Church of the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin Mary & more churches.
Museums: Kogo Galerii.
Hikes / Nature: Tartu University Botanical Garden, Maksa Manor Park, Toome Hill Park (Toomemägi), Emajoe-Suurso Hiking Trails, Laaniste Hiking Trail, Jarvselja Hiking Trail, Ahunapalu-Virvissaare Hiking Trail, Selgise Biking Trail

PAID Sights / Activities

Museums: Science Center AHHAA (& World’s Largest Hoberman Sphere), Typa Papermaking Museum, Estonian National Museum, Tartu Toy Museum, University of Tartu Museum, University of Tartu Art Museum, Tartu Student Lock-Up, University of Tartu Natural History Museum, Estonian Sports and Olympic Museum, Estonian Aviation Museum, Le Coq Beer Museum, Ice Age Centre, Struve Geodetic Arch & Observatory, KGB Cells Museum, Tartu Art Museum, 19th Century Citizen Museum, Kolkja Museum of Old Believers, Estonian Folk Museum, Tartu City Museum, Estonian Literary Museum, Postmuseum, Oskar Luts House Museum, Baer House Museum, Song Festival Museum, Tarty Nature House, Museum-Room of the Finnish Boys. If you intend to visit may museums, you can buy an Estonian Museum Card here https://muuseumikaart.ee/en/buy-museum-card (valid for a full year).
Other: Tagurpidi Maja (upside down house), Puhaste Brewery, Tartu Seiklus (Adventure) Park

Evening Entertainment Tel Aviv

Nightlife Areas: City Centre on Ruutli Street.
Theatres: Vanemuine Theatre, Tartu New Theatre, Tartu Elektriteater, Harbour Theatre, Karlova Teater, Vanemuise Small House, Black Box Theater, Kohvriteater.

Local Festivals

Tartu Internartional Literary Festival – May.
Estonian Theatre Festival Draama – Sept.
Festival Crazy Tartu (writing / poetry / music) – Nov.
Festival Tarty Folk – Nov.

Events: Visit Tartu or Facebook

Budget Bites

Main Supermarket Chains Estonia: Coop, Maxima, Selver, Rimi, Prisma, Grossi and Lidl. Maxima, Grossi and Lidl are the more budget-sensitive ones. On the Estonian Camino you will run into a supermarket almost every day, with a max. of 2 days in between them. As such, you won’t have to carry much weight in food. Sometimes it will be a local over-the-counter-shop with limited choice, but it’s better than nothing.
Local Dishes: Kartulisalat (potato salad), Rosolje (beetroot salad with herring and pickles), Mulgikapsad (pork-cabbage dish), Rämm (herring), Mulgipuder (meat porridge), Kama (porridge), Kiluvõileib (meatball soup), Hernesupp (pea soup), Leivasupp (sweet soup with apples and whipped cream), Verivorst (blood sausage), Sült (head cheese), Rukkileib (rye bread), Kiluvõileib (rye bread sandwich with fish), Pirukas (stuffed dough pastry), Kringel (sweet or savoury pastry), Kohupiimakreem (curd cheese dessert), Vastlakukkel (cardamom bread roll), Kohuke (cold dairy curd snack), Mannavaht (semolina cream), Kompott (compote), Kirju Koer / Kass Artur / Küpsisetort (cookie cakes).
The Veg Situation: Going veg is not so complicated in Estonia, as vegetarianism and veganism is widely accepted. Most supermarkets contain veg products, be it very processed at times. Veg restaurants can be found here. That said, these are concentrated in the bigger cities, you won’t pass many of them hiking. Local vegetarian dishes: Leivasupp, Rukkileib, Kohupiimakreem , Vastlakukkel, Kohuke, Mannavah, Kompott, Kirju Koer / Kass Artur / Küpsisetort. Local vegan dishes: Porgandi-Oakotletid (carrot and bean fritters), Nogese Kartuli Kotetid (potato fritters), Hapukapsa-Peedisalat (sauerkraut and beetroot salad), Seenesupp (wild mushrooms soup), Lillkapsa Ja Läätsesupp Seentega (cauliflower, lentil and mushroom soup), Porgandi Ja Kruubivorm (barley and carrot pudding).

National Drink: Vana Tallinn (liquor) and Vodka, Kali (alcohol-free fermented drink), Beer, Sweet Fruit Wines.

Sleep Cheap

Hostels / Hotels / Guesthouses: Of all Baltic countries, Estonia is the most expensive one. Expect Western European prices for food and accommodation. Without being paid to say so, I love Booking.com: They have the biggest selection, are transparent about the final price and have an efficient search engine tailored to your specific needs (cheapest first!). If you use it often enough, Genius-discounts are applied. Agoda is often not transparent about prices, adding a lot of additional costs in the last booking-step. Opodo is another decent option. Air BnB is not what it used to be, price-wise, and seem to focus on the more upscale boutique stays nowadays. Writer’s pick: I couchsurfed in Tartu.
Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost (unless you put a third-world country as homebase), but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate review explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored). The Couchsurfing community in Estonia is rather big and active. I Couchsurfed on many occasions and also used Warm Showers, which is in principal a bikepacking community focussing on 1-night stays. That said, long-distance hikers fit well with these type of travellers and are warmly welcomed.
Wild Camping: is entirely legal in Estonia, with the exception of private land. You can literally spend the night anywhere you want, as long as you don’t leave a mess and treat nature with respect. Estonia really goes above and beyond, as their local nature conservation institution, the RMK, provides a great number of free campsites, easily traceable via their app. Most contain sheltered picnic tables, a fireplace with free fire wood, a dry toilet, water access and sometimes even a tent shelter for rainy weather. Truly phenomenal!

Mama Said

Safety: Estonia is a very safe country. Besides bears there aren’t any dangerous animals, and even the bears are unlikely to interact with humans. Similar to the Estonians themselves: they really keep to themselves and won’t talk to you unless you talk to them. No one will bother you.
Tap Water: is safe to drink. Estonians also love their natural water sources for water provision, but you’ll generally need a local to point those out to you as they’re not clearly signposted. I drank straight from the streams in the forest without any issues, but I used a lifestraw/filter for the water from the bigger rivers or when close to a town or farmland. However, when cooking a filter wasn’t needed, as the act of boiling already kills the bacteria.
The best credit/debit card for traveling is Wise, as they use the live conversion rates with minimal exchange fees. Wise also has the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. Revolut is comparable, but they have higher exchange fees in the weekend and less wallet-options. Also, you can only wire money to Revolut in the currency you opened the account with, whereas Wise has IBAN’s from a wide variety of currencies, so you don’t have to pay a double exchange fee. Most Estonian ATMs charge a fee for cash outs, but card payments are generally accepted everywhere, even in the countryside.
Simcard: Buying a local simcard is by all means cheaper than using your international roaming option. The main providers are Telia, Tele2 and Elisa. Telia has the biggest network coverage and the fastest connection, which makes it most attractive for a hike in the countryside. You can cheaply buy their simcard, confusingly called ‘Super’, in any gas station or supermarket and then download the app to top it up. As usual, never buy a sim at the airport, where you’ll be ripped off with expensive tourist packages. Tip: instead of paying straight away for a calling or data package, first top up via the app and then pay with that money. Like this, you get free bonus data and minutes, while still having the full amount of money available for payments. In order to use your sim outside of Estonia, you must not only allow roaming on your phone, but also in the app (very odd and unusual, I didn’t know this and got stuck in the Latvian forest without reception… and all my Estonian data had already expired once I found out). Elisa has the cheapest deals, but a rather bad reputation. Tele2 is decent, but their connection is not as fast and widespread as Telia’s.

Transport

Walking: Tartu has a rather compact and walking-friendly city.
Cycling: Tartu is pretty bicycle-friendly with mild and considerate traffic, and even the occasional bicycle lane.
Public Transport: Tartu has 13 bus routes, incl. 2 night routes. You can buy a ticket directly from the bus driver, but this is much more expensive than buying an hourly or multi-day ticket at the ticket machines or kiosk, or buying a plastic bus card to load money onto (also available in R-kiosks and shopping centre). Other Estonian cards, such as the Tallinn, Go Bus and Ridango card, work here as well. You can also buy tickets online here.
Taxi / Uber: Estonia has taxi apps such as Uber and Bolt. However, the cheaper local app is called Forus.
Intercity Buses: As Estonia’s second biggest city, Tartu is well-serviced by bus lines. The bus station is called “Bussijaam” and is located at Turu 2 in the city centre. Google Maps is unreliable for bus times, as it’s not always up-to-date. Instead, use the local Tpilet app. You can buy tickets on this app as well, or pay in cash or with the Ridango, Go Bus, Tartu or Tallinn Card. Card payments are usually not accepted! Golden budget tip: In the south of the country, if on the Tpilet app it says “no bus tickets available” this generally means the ride is FREE with the Ridango card (which I bought for EUR 2 from the bus driver). That’s right! I have of course tested this theory, and with one exception in Viljandi, this was indeed true. It includes lines connecting from and to Tartu.
Train: Estonia’s train network connects certain parts of the country in a rather efficient and budget-friendly manner. The operating company is called Elron, and buying tickets online gives you a 15% discount. Alternatively, you can buy tickets at the train station or in the train itself (they check 100% of the times). Tartu’s train station is slightly outside of the center, at Vaksali Street.
Car Rental: This is not a cheap endeavour in Estonia. However, the best deals can generally be found when the car is picked up from the airport.
Airport: Tallinn Airport (TLL). If you’re on a budget, Riga Airport in Latvia generally has much cheaper connections. Affordable buses connect Riga with Tallinn in just a few hours.
Hitchhiking: is relatively safe in Estonia, but definitively not common. The shy and introverted nature of the Estonians makes them a bit less likely to invite a stranger into their car, so waiting times might be slightly longer compared to other countries. That said, I hitchhiked on plenty occasions in Estonia and I always managed with relative ease (as a woman alone). More info on hitchhiking in and out of Tartu can be found on Hitchwiki.

Next?

In Estonia: Karula National Park, Rakvere, Viljandi, Otepaa, Voru.
International Destinations Close By: Russia, Latvia, Finland, Belarus.

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