Amman
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Let me get entirely straight with you, from one friend to another: I’m not here trying to convince you to get your ass to Amman a.s.a.p., throwing overrated terms like “once-in-a-lifetime-experience” or “must-visit destination” in your face. It simply isn’t. I’m just here telling you that if you decide to visit Jordan, and I think you should as these terms do apply to the country as a whole, you probably can’t avoid passing through the capital Amman, whether you like it or not… so you might as well make the most of it while you’re there.
Let me get you started with that one, giving you some pointers on how to visit Amman:
Let me get you started with that one, giving you some pointers on how to visit Amman:
- Cheap
- Deep
- And, Culinary
Amman on the Cheap
Get Yourself a Jordan Pass (in advance)
A confession: I made a big mistake with regards to the budget-side of the trip. I guess when you receive a phone call that your young sister has been diagnosed with cancer (and you immediately need to travel back home – via Jordan), that kind of blurs the focus… but that’s great news for you, as you can learn from my mistakes. First of all, you’re reading a travelblog in advance, which I didn’t, so you’re already one step ahead of me. Because if I would have done so, I would have saved myself a shit-ton of money by buying the Jordan Pass. You see, Jordan is a travel destination on the rise and its tourism board is really glad to have you over… so glad they constructed this sweet little deal for you: A travel package including a 1-, 2-, or 3-day visit to Petra (I recommend 2 days), entry to over 40 normally paid attractions AND the entry visa, for a pack-price of 70-75-80JD. I paid a screaming 41JD (€52,50) for a 1-entry visa-on arrival, plus 55JD (€70) to enter Petra for 2 days, plus all other entry fees. I’m an idiot, don’t be like me.
Golden tip: If you enter and leave via Aqaba and stay less than 1 month, no visa fees apply (which makes the Jordan Pass unnecessary). Low-budget airline Ryanair flies on Aqaba.
Oh, and you know what doesn’t work: Trying to photoshop a fake Jordan Pass on your name to enter Petra (Yup, I’m totally that kind of person – if you have the balls to charge such ridiculous rates for something you didn’t even build in the first place, I sure as hell have the balls to return the rip-off-favor). But Petra is their cash cow and they know it, so they won’t let you get away without paying (so I did in the end, but A for effort).
Get Yourself a Jordan Pass (in advance)
A confession: I made a big mistake with regards to the budget-side of the trip. I guess when you receive a phone call that your young sister has been diagnosed with cancer (and you immediately need to travel back home – via Jordan), that kind of blurs the focus… but that’s great news for you, as you can learn from my mistakes. First of all, you’re reading a travelblog in advance, which I didn’t, so you’re already one step ahead of me. Because if I would have done so, I would have saved myself a shit-ton of money by buying the Jordan Pass. You see, Jordan is a travel destination on the rise and its tourism board is really glad to have you over… so glad they constructed this sweet little deal for you: A travel package including a 1-, 2-, or 3-day visit to Petra (I recommend 2 days), entry to over 40 normally paid attractions AND the entry visa, for a pack-price of 70-75-80JD. I paid a screaming 41JD (€52,50) for a 1-entry visa-on arrival, plus 55JD (€70) to enter Petra for 2 days, plus all other entry fees. I’m an idiot, don’t be like me.
Golden tip: If you enter and leave via Aqaba and stay less than 1 month, no visa fees apply (which makes the Jordan Pass unnecessary). Low-budget airline Ryanair flies on Aqaba.
Oh, and you know what doesn’t work: Trying to photoshop a fake Jordan Pass on your name to enter Petra (Yup, I’m totally that kind of person – if you have the balls to charge such ridiculous rates for something you didn’t even build in the first place, I sure as hell have the balls to return the rip-off-favor). But Petra is their cash cow and they know it, so they won’t let you get away without paying (so I did in the end, but A for effort).
Avoid Airport Hassle
I flew into Jordan from Malaysia. Needless to say, I carried a truckload of fake brand clothing with me. Yeahh… don’t, or wear them – all at once if you need to. Once I spotted my backpack on the luggage belt, I noticed it was wide open and all of those fake-brand-sweatpants (which I bought for the hospital visits of a cancer patient) were taken out.
Also, once I exchanged my cash money at the airport, I lost about half of it in exchange rates. Cash out, better idea.
Get Your Head Around Public Transport & Save!
Well, the best advice would be to just learn Arabic… as everywhere, public buses are the most economical option to get around, but all destinations are displayed on the front of the bus in the Arab language. Duolingo-a-go-go! If that’s one bridge too far for you, the only option left is to talk with locals, as apps such as Google Maps and Moovit don’t properly work here, as the translation of Arabic into the Latin alphabet don't always goes smoothly and street names generally aren't used. Don’t worry, the locals are incredibly friendly and keen to connect with foreigners, and even though English isn’t widely spoken, they will go out of their way to help you out to guide you into the right direction. The offline Maps.me app is useful to at least monitor if you're going into the right direction.
For intercity transport: Amman has several local bus terminals to get in and out of the city, the biggest ones being the Whidat South Bus Station and the Tabardour North Bus Station, depending on the destination you have in mind. Local buses generally only leave when they’re ‘full enough’ and stop in every god-forgotten village and settlement. Another, slightly more expensive, option to travel in and out of Amman is by the more touristy Jett Bus, leaving once or twice a day at set hours and driving without stopping everywhere along the way… or a shared taxi, leaving from both the northern and southern bus terminal whenever it’s full (this might take a while). The cheapest option to travel in between Amman and Queen Alia International Airport is the Sariyah Express, leaving every half hour from the North Bus Station (which is weird as the airport is south) and taking an hour or so. There is also an airport bus stopping at the Housing Bank Complex at the 4th, 5th, 6th and 7th circle (every 30 min. from 6:30AM - 6PM; hourly 6PM-midnight). Don’t expect anything fancy or well-organized in this local-way-of-traveling, there’s a lot of yelling and pushing going on and I personally witnessed the driver going out of the vehicle once to take a dump at the roadside (I wish I was kidding).
Hitchhiking is possible (I did it), but not common practice.
I flew into Jordan from Malaysia. Needless to say, I carried a truckload of fake brand clothing with me. Yeahh… don’t, or wear them – all at once if you need to. Once I spotted my backpack on the luggage belt, I noticed it was wide open and all of those fake-brand-sweatpants (which I bought for the hospital visits of a cancer patient) were taken out.
Also, once I exchanged my cash money at the airport, I lost about half of it in exchange rates. Cash out, better idea.
Get Your Head Around Public Transport & Save!
Well, the best advice would be to just learn Arabic… as everywhere, public buses are the most economical option to get around, but all destinations are displayed on the front of the bus in the Arab language. Duolingo-a-go-go! If that’s one bridge too far for you, the only option left is to talk with locals, as apps such as Google Maps and Moovit don’t properly work here, as the translation of Arabic into the Latin alphabet don't always goes smoothly and street names generally aren't used. Don’t worry, the locals are incredibly friendly and keen to connect with foreigners, and even though English isn’t widely spoken, they will go out of their way to help you out to guide you into the right direction. The offline Maps.me app is useful to at least monitor if you're going into the right direction.
For intercity transport: Amman has several local bus terminals to get in and out of the city, the biggest ones being the Whidat South Bus Station and the Tabardour North Bus Station, depending on the destination you have in mind. Local buses generally only leave when they’re ‘full enough’ and stop in every god-forgotten village and settlement. Another, slightly more expensive, option to travel in and out of Amman is by the more touristy Jett Bus, leaving once or twice a day at set hours and driving without stopping everywhere along the way… or a shared taxi, leaving from both the northern and southern bus terminal whenever it’s full (this might take a while). The cheapest option to travel in between Amman and Queen Alia International Airport is the Sariyah Express, leaving every half hour from the North Bus Station (which is weird as the airport is south) and taking an hour or so. There is also an airport bus stopping at the Housing Bank Complex at the 4th, 5th, 6th and 7th circle (every 30 min. from 6:30AM - 6PM; hourly 6PM-midnight). Don’t expect anything fancy or well-organized in this local-way-of-traveling, there’s a lot of yelling and pushing going on and I personally witnessed the driver going out of the vehicle once to take a dump at the roadside (I wish I was kidding).
Hitchhiking is possible (I did it), but not common practice.
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Ignore Cabs, Embrace Qareem
It’s almost a golden rule in every single country: No matter how heart-warmingly welcoming and hospitable the local population can be, about 95% of the the cab-driver-supply can be classified as pure dickheads. Jordan is no exception. It doesn’t matter what a kick-ass negotiator you are, you will be ripped off as an obvious outsider… don’t take it personally. Instead, download Qareem, the local version of Uber that cuts right through the fraud-circus and reversed racism. Uber works too, but Qareem is slightly cheaper as it’s local.
Sleep for Next-To-Nothing
If there’s one thing that’s ridiculously affordable in Jordan, then it’s a bed. If you’re ready to put luxury aside, that is. For 5 meagre bucks I stayed in a private room (because I was the only female in the house, and that’s what the friendly owner felt was the right thing to do), with free coffee, occasional complimentary evening meals, and free luggage storage… all smack-bam in Amman’s city centre, facing the Roman Theatre. It was a true back-to-basics experience which might not be for everyone, but if you’re a budget traveller like me that makes it all the more interesting. Recommended: Haroon Hotel.
It’s almost a golden rule in every single country: No matter how heart-warmingly welcoming and hospitable the local population can be, about 95% of the the cab-driver-supply can be classified as pure dickheads. Jordan is no exception. It doesn’t matter what a kick-ass negotiator you are, you will be ripped off as an obvious outsider… don’t take it personally. Instead, download Qareem, the local version of Uber that cuts right through the fraud-circus and reversed racism. Uber works too, but Qareem is slightly cheaper as it’s local.
Sleep for Next-To-Nothing
If there’s one thing that’s ridiculously affordable in Jordan, then it’s a bed. If you’re ready to put luxury aside, that is. For 5 meagre bucks I stayed in a private room (because I was the only female in the house, and that’s what the friendly owner felt was the right thing to do), with free coffee, occasional complimentary evening meals, and free luggage storage… all smack-bam in Amman’s city centre, facing the Roman Theatre. It was a true back-to-basics experience which might not be for everyone, but if you’re a budget traveller like me that makes it all the more interesting. Recommended: Haroon Hotel.
Don’t Pay For Attractions
If you’re truly following my advice, you got yourself that phenomenal little Jordan pass, which includes literally every attraction you could possibly want to visit… but if you’re a fool like me, there’s still a chance… Keep reading:
If you’re truly following my advice, you got yourself that phenomenal little Jordan pass, which includes literally every attraction you could possibly want to visit… but if you’re a fool like me, there’s still a chance… Keep reading:
Culture Vultures
Mosques & Fortresses
Dry. Dusty. Hot, copper-coloured landscapes. My first impressions of Jordan ticked all the boxes of what I think of when I hear the word ‘Middle East’. It’s all just very… Arabic. Like you woke up right inside of the Aladdin movie. So if there’s one type of landmark you can’t (and certainly don’t want to) avoid, then it’s the ample supply of mosques (highlights: King Abdullah, Abu Darwish, Grand Husseini – no entrance fees). Dazzling tilework brought up to a whole new level! Disclaimer: Besides the King Abdullah Mosque, others can only be admired from the outside, unless you're a Muslim... If you look down and don’t see a penis dangling there, you won’t have full access either. Sure, there are special ‘female sections’, as obviously the Islam doesn’t limit itself to the male kind, but the main halls are pure bro-code. (That said – unlike in other "Middle Eastern destinations" I visited, such as conservative parts of Morocco, off-the-grid Tunisia and certain sections of Dubai and Abu Dhabi, I didn’t find Jordan what westerners would consider ‘female-unfriendly’. Quite the contrary! It’s also a very common sight to see women smoking shisha and cigarettes from under their hijab, I even spotted stiletto heels sticking out under a burqa).
For an alternative 1001-night experience, head to the notable fortresses bursting out of the seems with history and tales of legend. The Ahl Al Khaf, Qasr Al-Kharanna or the castle of Qasr Al-Abad are a few of the prominent attractions scattered around Amman.
Mosques & Fortresses
Dry. Dusty. Hot, copper-coloured landscapes. My first impressions of Jordan ticked all the boxes of what I think of when I hear the word ‘Middle East’. It’s all just very… Arabic. Like you woke up right inside of the Aladdin movie. So if there’s one type of landmark you can’t (and certainly don’t want to) avoid, then it’s the ample supply of mosques (highlights: King Abdullah, Abu Darwish, Grand Husseini – no entrance fees). Dazzling tilework brought up to a whole new level! Disclaimer: Besides the King Abdullah Mosque, others can only be admired from the outside, unless you're a Muslim... If you look down and don’t see a penis dangling there, you won’t have full access either. Sure, there are special ‘female sections’, as obviously the Islam doesn’t limit itself to the male kind, but the main halls are pure bro-code. (That said – unlike in other "Middle Eastern destinations" I visited, such as conservative parts of Morocco, off-the-grid Tunisia and certain sections of Dubai and Abu Dhabi, I didn’t find Jordan what westerners would consider ‘female-unfriendly’. Quite the contrary! It’s also a very common sight to see women smoking shisha and cigarettes from under their hijab, I even spotted stiletto heels sticking out under a burqa).
For an alternative 1001-night experience, head to the notable fortresses bursting out of the seems with history and tales of legend. The Ahl Al Khaf, Qasr Al-Kharanna or the castle of Qasr Al-Abad are a few of the prominent attractions scattered around Amman.
Go Roman
Besides Islamic influence, I really enjoyed the presence of Roman heritage smack-bam in the centre of this busy ‘n buzzling capital. The Roman Theatre is hard to oversee, located along Amman’s lifeline. And the great thing is: The best view of it is entirely free… as it’s hard to properly appreciate its full magnificence standing right on top of it, is it now? Like Karl Pilkington (from ‘An Idiot Abroad’) said when visiting Petra: “You don’t want to be living in the fancy building and look out over the shitty caves, you want to live in the cave and have that fantastic view other people paid for."
[That said, the entrance is only 2JD]
Besides Islamic influence, I really enjoyed the presence of Roman heritage smack-bam in the centre of this busy ‘n buzzling capital. The Roman Theatre is hard to oversee, located along Amman’s lifeline. And the great thing is: The best view of it is entirely free… as it’s hard to properly appreciate its full magnificence standing right on top of it, is it now? Like Karl Pilkington (from ‘An Idiot Abroad’) said when visiting Petra: “You don’t want to be living in the fancy building and look out over the shitty caves, you want to live in the cave and have that fantastic view other people paid for."
[That said, the entrance is only 2JD]
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Pretty Dead
It’s salty, it’s refreshing and it’s 100% dead! Come on, admit, you’ve seen the images of people floating on the surface of the Dead Sea and you want to be one of them. Well, good news keeps coming your way, as with only a 50KM-distance from Amman it makes for a perfect daytrip! Be prepared: Most of its shore is privatized by luxurious hotel chains, and day entry prices are almost as high as when you spend the night altogether… But public spots, which are free, include the Herodus Spring, the Zara Hot Springs and the coastal stretch passed the police checkpoint a few kilometres north of the Wadi Mujib (type ‘dead sea access free’ on the Maps.me app to find locations). Don’t forget to bring plenty of fresh water to rinse off!
It’s salty, it’s refreshing and it’s 100% dead! Come on, admit, you’ve seen the images of people floating on the surface of the Dead Sea and you want to be one of them. Well, good news keeps coming your way, as with only a 50KM-distance from Amman it makes for a perfect daytrip! Be prepared: Most of its shore is privatized by luxurious hotel chains, and day entry prices are almost as high as when you spend the night altogether… But public spots, which are free, include the Herodus Spring, the Zara Hot Springs and the coastal stretch passed the police checkpoint a few kilometres north of the Wadi Mujib (type ‘dead sea access free’ on the Maps.me app to find locations). Don’t forget to bring plenty of fresh water to rinse off!
Tip From A Local: Hike Amman's Surroundings
What else to see apart from the obvious highlights in Jordan? Well, you will be surprised, but there are many beautiful hikes you can do, especially in the northern part of Jordan or the Dead Sea Valleys. In the north you can discover Wadi Al-Rayan, which features a wonderful walk in a valley where you are surrounded by ancient olive trees. The way will take you along a small creek and probably you will get wet feet, depending on the season... while left and right you have the chance to see plenty of green and huge, old olive trees that date back hundreds or even more than a thousand years. Best time to go is March to June.
Even further north, close to the Syrian border near the Yarmouk Nature Reserve, you can discover the Valley of Pomegranates. Starting near the small town of Kufr Sawm, you will walk through a valley full with trees of the red fruit. You might also see some farmers who harvest fruits or are working on getting the seeds out of the shell in order to prepare the tasty pomegranate juice, used in many Levantine dishes. Best time to go is November, which is the season for this sweet fruit.
What else to see apart from the obvious highlights in Jordan? Well, you will be surprised, but there are many beautiful hikes you can do, especially in the northern part of Jordan or the Dead Sea Valleys. In the north you can discover Wadi Al-Rayan, which features a wonderful walk in a valley where you are surrounded by ancient olive trees. The way will take you along a small creek and probably you will get wet feet, depending on the season... while left and right you have the chance to see plenty of green and huge, old olive trees that date back hundreds or even more than a thousand years. Best time to go is March to June.
Even further north, close to the Syrian border near the Yarmouk Nature Reserve, you can discover the Valley of Pomegranates. Starting near the small town of Kufr Sawm, you will walk through a valley full with trees of the red fruit. You might also see some farmers who harvest fruits or are working on getting the seeds out of the shell in order to prepare the tasty pomegranate juice, used in many Levantine dishes. Best time to go is November, which is the season for this sweet fruit.
Since you are already here, why not check out some of the Wadis (Valleys) that go inland from the Dead Sea. Apart from the most famous and pricey Wadi Mujib, there are plenty of other choices further south the Dead Sea. You can either opt for Wadi Numeira, Wadi Himara, Wadi Muhkereis, Wadi Kerak or Wadi Hasa which is far south. Basically, you access these valleys somewhere from the Dead Sea Road and make your way east. Some of them you go until you cannot go further and reach a waterfall l (Wadi Himara) or you can take longer paths and decide to return (Wadi Kerak) or if you have the time even make a full 2-day tour with camping (Wadi Hasa).
Please keep in mind that there are no marked trails, no security on site, it is usually around 6-9 degrees warmer than in Amman and also mobile reception might not work. So come prepared, don't go alone, and inform other people. Especially in winter you should mind these Wadis and inform yourself about the local weather conditions, as flash floods can be dangerous or even deadly.
Given these precautions, you can access all these valleys for free, and make your way as far as you wish, experience beautiful landscapes and walk through knee deep water (Wadi Numeira) or even higher water levels (Wadi Hasa). This is a welcome change to the well-known desert climate and rather dry sites such as Petra and Wadi Rum. Given that Jordan is one of the driest countries in the world, it is nice to see these natural water springs right at the source. The only drawback is that they are not so accessible, so you might wanna share a rental car with some people or be very patient regarding your transport options. But they are a wonderful contrast to desert or the green north and you can visit them even in the hotter months as you have a welcoming refreshment.
Please keep in mind that there are no marked trails, no security on site, it is usually around 6-9 degrees warmer than in Amman and also mobile reception might not work. So come prepared, don't go alone, and inform other people. Especially in winter you should mind these Wadis and inform yourself about the local weather conditions, as flash floods can be dangerous or even deadly.
Given these precautions, you can access all these valleys for free, and make your way as far as you wish, experience beautiful landscapes and walk through knee deep water (Wadi Numeira) or even higher water levels (Wadi Hasa). This is a welcome change to the well-known desert climate and rather dry sites such as Petra and Wadi Rum. Given that Jordan is one of the driest countries in the world, it is nice to see these natural water springs right at the source. The only drawback is that they are not so accessible, so you might wanna share a rental car with some people or be very patient regarding your transport options. But they are a wonderful contrast to desert or the green north and you can visit them even in the hotter months as you have a welcoming refreshment.
Yum Yum Amman
I’m vegan. Not one of those annoying ones rubbing it in any random face, just the one that mentions it in certain contexts. Jordan-contexts. I find it worth noting I actually really enjoyed my food here, without going all fancy-eco-hipster-with-extra-kale-and-quinoa. Lots of Jordanian local food is ‘accidentally vegan’, and these are my fav’s:
I’m vegan. Not one of those annoying ones rubbing it in any random face, just the one that mentions it in certain contexts. Jordan-contexts. I find it worth noting I actually really enjoyed my food here, without going all fancy-eco-hipster-with-extra-kale-and-quinoa. Lots of Jordanian local food is ‘accidentally vegan’, and these are my fav’s:
- I’m a chickpea-chick. Well, self-high-five I’m in Jordan then, as that makes up a significant part of its cuisine. I think I ate enough Hummus-Falafel-pitas for the rest of the year here… when in doubt, just hummus! (or mix it up with nuts-and-red-pepper-based muhammara)
- Can’t go wrong with roasted eggplants either: I’m still having wet dreams about Jordan’s Moutabel, not even trying to deny it. And no, it’s not the same as Baba Ghanoush (which you can order in Jordan too): Yoghurt is added to moutabel, so make sure that’s a plant-based one.
- Tomatoes or Tomah-toes? Doesn’t matter, as long as they’re sautéed! And they will be, if you order Galayet Bandora. Zero animal products, 100% local. Alternative: Bamia, okra cooked in tomato and olive oil (YUM).
- “So where do you get your protein from?” Bitch, lentils. Digestible protein-and-iron-bombs right at ya! In Jordan to be found in Shorbat (soup) and Mujadara (rice-lentil-dishes) or Koshary (with macaroni - ??? – added to the equation).
- Beans, another winner. Ful, Jordan’s local breakfast dish, contains fava beans, garlic, lemon juice, olive oil and… drumroll… chili! Spicy food for breakfast, I start to like Jordanians more by the minute!
- Tabbouleh, is made of parsley, tomatoes and lemon (but watch out, it sometimes contains coriander which according to my taste buds entails no essential difference from biting a chunk straight out of a soap bar).
- Can't go wrong with Freekeh either, as this sun-dried wheat is in fact trendily labeled 'superfood'. Quinoa 2.0!
- Last but definitely not least: Manaqeesh might be one of the prime reasons to return to Jordan. It's so simple, dough topped with olive oil and thyme, yet downright mindblowing (watch out - there are non-vegan versions with cheese and meat too).
Tip From A Local: Non-Vegan Food Options
Besides vegan or vegetarian food options there are plenty of meat-based dishes, also on the budget side. Because Budget Bucket List tries to respect everyone's personal eating choices, local expat Bastian from Living in Jordan as an Expat gives his budget favorites:
For more insight on some typical Arabic Restaurants in and around Amman, see this article.
Besides vegan or vegetarian food options there are plenty of meat-based dishes, also on the budget side. Because Budget Bucket List tries to respect everyone's personal eating choices, local expat Bastian from Living in Jordan as an Expat gives his budget favorites:
- Across Amman, you will find many Shawerma places, Shawarma Reem at 2nd circle being the most famous. You can get a Shawerma sandwich either with chicken for less than 1 JD.
- Lamb meat will be around 1 JD. These sandwiches are usually filled with meat, tahine (sesame paste) sauce and tomatoes.
- You can also get Arayes, which are small pita breads filled with minced meat and spices. Depending on the place, they will not cost you more than 1.5 JD.
- Slightly going up on the spending scale, you can get very cheap burgers or Dejaj Fahm (grilled chicken): a whole piece is around 4-5 JD, so half chicken will cost you about 2.5 JD.
- Mashawi Mshakl (mixed grill) is very popular in many places and often that includes Shish Tawwuk (chicken skewer), Shish Tikka (Skewer with Lamb cubes) and Kebab (Skewer with minced meat). A kilo of Mashawi Mshakl usually costs around 7 JD on the lower end. If you only opt for chicken that might be even less.
For more insight on some typical Arabic Restaurants in and around Amman, see this article.
Local tips and accompanying photos were made possible by:
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