Theth National Park & Shkodër
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I knew nothing about Albania… but I knew about Theth. In an abundant sea of national parks and natural surplus, somehow Theth National Park managed to rise above all of its equals in terms of publicity and subsequent popularity. No tourist is taken seriously has (s)he not included this destination in the Albanian itinerary, even if this is the only stop the timeframe allows for. Indeed, the tale precedes the actual experience… but does the experience match the tale?
If Theth is indeed the undisputed winner of Albania’s generous total of 15 national parks can only be determined after a thorough exploration of every single one of them, and it then still relies on personal taste and preference… But Theth, including both the Albanian Alps* (as part of the larger Dinaric Alps range) and the thick forested Shala Valley, is likely to rank high in your favorites. The park was established in 1966 in order to protect its precious ecosystems, including virgin valleys, waterfalls, mountains as well as limestone and dolomite rock formations. The lavish flora of this region shapes the home of mammal species such as deer, brown bears, lynxes, grey wolves and chamoises, some of them alarmingly endangered. It is exactly this encounter with the unique biodiversity, flawlessly combined with the well-preserved heritage of everything Albanian culture and history stands for, that makes this visit a memorable one I won’t allow you to miss out on.
* Locally known as “Prokletije,” which can be freely translated as “Accursed Mountains” referring to its rough and rugged nature. On the Montenegrin side of the border, one can visit the impressive Prokletije National Park, which is my personal Montenegro favorite.
If Theth is indeed the undisputed winner of Albania’s generous total of 15 national parks can only be determined after a thorough exploration of every single one of them, and it then still relies on personal taste and preference… But Theth, including both the Albanian Alps* (as part of the larger Dinaric Alps range) and the thick forested Shala Valley, is likely to rank high in your favorites. The park was established in 1966 in order to protect its precious ecosystems, including virgin valleys, waterfalls, mountains as well as limestone and dolomite rock formations. The lavish flora of this region shapes the home of mammal species such as deer, brown bears, lynxes, grey wolves and chamoises, some of them alarmingly endangered. It is exactly this encounter with the unique biodiversity, flawlessly combined with the well-preserved heritage of everything Albanian culture and history stands for, that makes this visit a memorable one I won’t allow you to miss out on.
* Locally known as “Prokletije,” which can be freely translated as “Accursed Mountains” referring to its rough and rugged nature. On the Montenegrin side of the border, one can visit the impressive Prokletije National Park, which is my personal Montenegro favorite.
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Preparations and Journey
As Theth National Park is basically a dead end, the means of traveling are limited. There are 2 roads to get there, of which only one is recommendable: the one stretching into the valley from a small town called Koplik, which is the last place with ATM’s and properly-sized supermarkets. This area has some hiking and caving opportunities of its own. The other road leaves from Prekal, which takes almost twice the time. If you travel from Montenegro, Koplik is an easy 45-minute drive from its capital Podgorica passing the Hani i Hotit – Bozhaj border crossing. However, it’s more likely you are already in Albania, which means your journey leads through the pleasant city of Shkodër / Shkodra, which is a recommendable destination to visit in its own right (scroll down for more information and travel tips). Due to its rising peak in tourism, the road has been recently converted into a well-maintained asphalt road, facilitating an easy and worry-free journey.
When electing the means of transport, it is important to determine in advance which hikes you intend to do. The most popular and well-traversed trail is the one from Theth to Valbonë / Valbona… In case this one also triggers your interest, be aware that quite some preparation is needed: You can take a minibus or jeep ride from Shkodër to Theth (approx. 3 hours), then hike to Valbonë (5-8 hours depending on your fitness level) and take a ferry-bus combination back to Shkodër (approx. 6 hours). Looking at the estimated time frames, you can conclude that an overnight stay is necessary in either Theth, Valbonë or both, which I recommend to pre-book due to high demand. Additionally, you will either need to arrange a luggage storage in Shkodër, or otherwise carry everything with you on the hike. Also keep in mind that in off-season (everything outside of summer), the jeep/minibus service is limited or non-existent on some days, which means you will have to arrange a private shuttle or taxi. Prices vary, but expect to pay a high amount ranging from €40-60. Alternatively you can try hitchhiking, but with limited traffic to this “dead end,” success rates aren’t always promising, especially in off-season and outside of the weekend.
Therefore, I recommend doing this hike up and down to Theth in 2 days or only go half-way and back, so you can rent a car in Shkodër for more freedom and flexibility. A car isn’t only convenient in order to easily reach the famous Theth, but also to explore the more remote and lesser-known destinations allowing for a more thorough and meaningful grasp of Albania. You now know the hassle of reaching the country’s most popular destination with public transport… try to imagine getting off the beaten track. Just saying! Personally, I have an excellent experience with Rental Shkodra, who offered the convenient option to pick up the vehicle in Shkodër and return it in the capital Tirana, just before leaving the country – awesome! Their friendly customer service and reachability during this unforgettable roadtrip allowed for a stress- and hassle-free budget adventure.
As Theth National Park is basically a dead end, the means of traveling are limited. There are 2 roads to get there, of which only one is recommendable: the one stretching into the valley from a small town called Koplik, which is the last place with ATM’s and properly-sized supermarkets. This area has some hiking and caving opportunities of its own. The other road leaves from Prekal, which takes almost twice the time. If you travel from Montenegro, Koplik is an easy 45-minute drive from its capital Podgorica passing the Hani i Hotit – Bozhaj border crossing. However, it’s more likely you are already in Albania, which means your journey leads through the pleasant city of Shkodër / Shkodra, which is a recommendable destination to visit in its own right (scroll down for more information and travel tips). Due to its rising peak in tourism, the road has been recently converted into a well-maintained asphalt road, facilitating an easy and worry-free journey.
When electing the means of transport, it is important to determine in advance which hikes you intend to do. The most popular and well-traversed trail is the one from Theth to Valbonë / Valbona… In case this one also triggers your interest, be aware that quite some preparation is needed: You can take a minibus or jeep ride from Shkodër to Theth (approx. 3 hours), then hike to Valbonë (5-8 hours depending on your fitness level) and take a ferry-bus combination back to Shkodër (approx. 6 hours). Looking at the estimated time frames, you can conclude that an overnight stay is necessary in either Theth, Valbonë or both, which I recommend to pre-book due to high demand. Additionally, you will either need to arrange a luggage storage in Shkodër, or otherwise carry everything with you on the hike. Also keep in mind that in off-season (everything outside of summer), the jeep/minibus service is limited or non-existent on some days, which means you will have to arrange a private shuttle or taxi. Prices vary, but expect to pay a high amount ranging from €40-60. Alternatively you can try hitchhiking, but with limited traffic to this “dead end,” success rates aren’t always promising, especially in off-season and outside of the weekend.
Therefore, I recommend doing this hike up and down to Theth in 2 days or only go half-way and back, so you can rent a car in Shkodër for more freedom and flexibility. A car isn’t only convenient in order to easily reach the famous Theth, but also to explore the more remote and lesser-known destinations allowing for a more thorough and meaningful grasp of Albania. You now know the hassle of reaching the country’s most popular destination with public transport… try to imagine getting off the beaten track. Just saying! Personally, I have an excellent experience with Rental Shkodra, who offered the convenient option to pick up the vehicle in Shkodër and return it in the capital Tirana, just before leaving the country – awesome! Their friendly customer service and reachability during this unforgettable roadtrip allowed for a stress- and hassle-free budget adventure.
The two previous photos by Miles Watson Photography
Keep in mind that tourism has made a very noticeable entry in Theth, which is clearly reflected in the accommodation prices… even in low season. Against all expectations, I literally paid twice the room rate compared to other Balkan-countries such as Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzegovina and Serbia. Plus, where I paid an average €15-20 in mentioned countries for an actual 1- or 2-bedroom apartment with kitchen, here I received for €35-40 an absolute Spartan back-to-basics room (without heating in very frigid conditions). Another issue with famous booking engines such as Booking.com is that once your booking is confirmed in the app, that doesn’t always mean it’s confirmed in reality. About 40% of the times I received an email afterwards, written in Albanian, that the hosts were unavailable or outside of the country and couldn’t accommodate me. In the case of Theth, I didn’t receive an email at all and stood in front of closed doors… upon which I had no Wi-Fi signal to book alternative accommodation during nightfall. Not ideal! Lesson learned: Always re-confirm per phone or email.
During my visit, there was only one overpriced mini-market in Theth. Koplik is the last town for shopping. That said, take into account that most accommodations don’t have a (communal) kitchen available. In Theth, most accommodations provide a breakfast and dinner option, for which at the more low-range accommodations €7-15 is charged per meal.
During my visit, there was only one overpriced mini-market in Theth. Koplik is the last town for shopping. That said, take into account that most accommodations don’t have a (communal) kitchen available. In Theth, most accommodations provide a breakfast and dinner option, for which at the more low-range accommodations €7-15 is charged per meal.
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The Hikes of Theth
Theth and hiking are basically synonyms of one another. Besides just sitting on a wooden bench to drink in the astonishing views over the valley, there’s honestly not much else to do than hike the hell out of the surroundings. And that’s a good thing, as this is the best way to truly take in all that beauty Theth has to offer. The most popular track spans from Theth to Valbonë National Park, allowing you to cover two impressive national parks in a single day… but the most interesting hike in terms of unique scenery is in my opinion the equally famous Blue Eye valley track.
Theth-Valbonë Hike
Starting point: Either Theth or Valbonë.
Distance: 12-16km, depending on detours to viewpoints.
Elevation gain: 961m (highest point 1888m).
Level of difficulty: Moderate without snow, difficult with snow.
Notes: Check the section under “Preparations and Journey” in order to get a full idea of what needs to be arranged in order to complete this hike the traditional way. To make your life a tad easier, I recommend either allocating 2 days to complete it, walking back the same route the next day (or on the same day if you’re fit enough and have sufficient daylight hours)… or to turn around half-way at the Valbonë Valley viewpoint, as indicated here. I don’t recommend doing this trail on bicycle, as half of the way you will be carrying the bike up the cliffs. This trail can be dangerous in winter and/or with snowy conditions, when special equipment is needed. There is no alpine first aid point available in this area. Full Trail GPS-details here.
Note that this route is a part of the famous long-distance trails Peak of the Balkans (also traversing the stunning Prokletije National Park in Montenegro), as well as the Via Dinarica mega-trail.
Theth and hiking are basically synonyms of one another. Besides just sitting on a wooden bench to drink in the astonishing views over the valley, there’s honestly not much else to do than hike the hell out of the surroundings. And that’s a good thing, as this is the best way to truly take in all that beauty Theth has to offer. The most popular track spans from Theth to Valbonë National Park, allowing you to cover two impressive national parks in a single day… but the most interesting hike in terms of unique scenery is in my opinion the equally famous Blue Eye valley track.
Theth-Valbonë Hike
Starting point: Either Theth or Valbonë.
Distance: 12-16km, depending on detours to viewpoints.
Elevation gain: 961m (highest point 1888m).
Level of difficulty: Moderate without snow, difficult with snow.
Notes: Check the section under “Preparations and Journey” in order to get a full idea of what needs to be arranged in order to complete this hike the traditional way. To make your life a tad easier, I recommend either allocating 2 days to complete it, walking back the same route the next day (or on the same day if you’re fit enough and have sufficient daylight hours)… or to turn around half-way at the Valbonë Valley viewpoint, as indicated here. I don’t recommend doing this trail on bicycle, as half of the way you will be carrying the bike up the cliffs. This trail can be dangerous in winter and/or with snowy conditions, when special equipment is needed. There is no alpine first aid point available in this area. Full Trail GPS-details here.
Note that this route is a part of the famous long-distance trails Peak of the Balkans (also traversing the stunning Prokletije National Park in Montenegro), as well as the Via Dinarica mega-trail.
Blue Eye Hike (Syri i Kalter)
Starting point: Theth. In case of limited time or a low level of fitness you can also drive or arrange a ride to Nderlysaj / Vaskat Canyon, from where it’s a short up-and-down stretch.
Distance: Approx. 25km from Theth (up and down).
Elevation gain: 393m (highest point 877m).
Level of difficulty: Easy.
Notes: There is a trail and a road leading to Nderlysaj. I full-heartedly recommend the trail, which is incredibly scenic and allows you to make a short detour to the Grunas Waterfall. The road, on the other hand, lacks all of the mentioned vistas, and cars racing by and leaving big clouds of dust will ruin the overall experience. In case you’re tired, this is however the easiest (and only) route to hitch a ride back. Full Trail GPS-details here.
Starting point: Theth. In case of limited time or a low level of fitness you can also drive or arrange a ride to Nderlysaj / Vaskat Canyon, from where it’s a short up-and-down stretch.
Distance: Approx. 25km from Theth (up and down).
Elevation gain: 393m (highest point 877m).
Level of difficulty: Easy.
Notes: There is a trail and a road leading to Nderlysaj. I full-heartedly recommend the trail, which is incredibly scenic and allows you to make a short detour to the Grunas Waterfall. The road, on the other hand, lacks all of the mentioned vistas, and cars racing by and leaving big clouds of dust will ruin the overall experience. In case you’re tired, this is however the easiest (and only) route to hitch a ride back. Full Trail GPS-details here.
Swimming in the Blue Eye is possible… but be aware: It’s freezing cold in all seasons!
Maja e Arapit Hike
Starting point: Theth.
Distance: Approx. 22km from Theth (up and down).
Elevation gain: 1600m (highest point 2218m).
Level of difficulty: Moderate.
Notes: The trail goes up across the river Shale. There are two main routes in order to reach the peak: The western route is rated most difficult as locals discontinued using it, and as such it is now harder to trace down – The eastern route is however well-marked. Above 2000m elevation the hike continues on the left through a beautiful rocky landscape, granting fantastic views onto the Arapi peak. It is possible to shortly continue to the Pejës peak. Full Trail GPS-details here.
Maja e Arapit Hike
Starting point: Theth.
Distance: Approx. 22km from Theth (up and down).
Elevation gain: 1600m (highest point 2218m).
Level of difficulty: Moderate.
Notes: The trail goes up across the river Shale. There are two main routes in order to reach the peak: The western route is rated most difficult as locals discontinued using it, and as such it is now harder to trace down – The eastern route is however well-marked. Above 2000m elevation the hike continues on the left through a beautiful rocky landscape, granting fantastic views onto the Arapi peak. It is possible to shortly continue to the Pejës peak. Full Trail GPS-details here.
Shkodër
When visiting Theth National Park, it is unavoidable to cross Shkodër on your way in and out. Even though these destinations are a world apart, this city undoubtedly demands a fraction of your undivided attention as it has quite a bit to offer… and not only as Albania’s lively hotspot for cyclists (yes, really – maybe that’s why I instantly felt a connection, as a Dutchie). The most prominent attraction is needless to say the lake the town was named after: Lake Shkodër, the largest one in the entire Balkan and home to some of Europe’s last pelicans. As the Montenegrin-Albanian border* crosses right through it, you can indulge in its pleasing panoramas from both countries.
* In Montenegro it’s declared 1 of their national parks (Skadar Lake National Park), in Albania it is not… as with 15 in total they might already have their hands full.
Possibly the best views over this natural wonder and its meanders can be obtained from the Rozafa Castle, a former Illyrian stronghold rising 130m above sea level. Now I must admit, after already 3 full months in the Balkan I got a bit castle’d out at the point I reached Shkodër… but this one is a true jewel in the crown. Hands down the most impressive castle ruins I had seen that season, both in terms of preservation and slap-in-the-face panoramas. Strolling over the walls one can only imagine the full splendour of the “good old days”, when it was still fully functional… However, the lady Rozafa whom the castle was named after, might disagree: According to local legend, she was sacrificed and walled in alive to ensure the success of the foundation, leaving half of her body out to breastfeed her son:
“I have but one request to make. When you wall me in, leave a hole for my right eye, for my right hand, for my right foot and for my right breast. I have a small son. When he starts to cry, I will cheer him up with my right eye, I will comfort him with my right hand, I will put him to sleep with my right foot and wean him with my right breast."
When visiting Theth National Park, it is unavoidable to cross Shkodër on your way in and out. Even though these destinations are a world apart, this city undoubtedly demands a fraction of your undivided attention as it has quite a bit to offer… and not only as Albania’s lively hotspot for cyclists (yes, really – maybe that’s why I instantly felt a connection, as a Dutchie). The most prominent attraction is needless to say the lake the town was named after: Lake Shkodër, the largest one in the entire Balkan and home to some of Europe’s last pelicans. As the Montenegrin-Albanian border* crosses right through it, you can indulge in its pleasing panoramas from both countries.
* In Montenegro it’s declared 1 of their national parks (Skadar Lake National Park), in Albania it is not… as with 15 in total they might already have their hands full.
Possibly the best views over this natural wonder and its meanders can be obtained from the Rozafa Castle, a former Illyrian stronghold rising 130m above sea level. Now I must admit, after already 3 full months in the Balkan I got a bit castle’d out at the point I reached Shkodër… but this one is a true jewel in the crown. Hands down the most impressive castle ruins I had seen that season, both in terms of preservation and slap-in-the-face panoramas. Strolling over the walls one can only imagine the full splendour of the “good old days”, when it was still fully functional… However, the lady Rozafa whom the castle was named after, might disagree: According to local legend, she was sacrificed and walled in alive to ensure the success of the foundation, leaving half of her body out to breastfeed her son:
“I have but one request to make. When you wall me in, leave a hole for my right eye, for my right hand, for my right foot and for my right breast. I have a small son. When he starts to cry, I will cheer him up with my right eye, I will comfort him with my right hand, I will put him to sleep with my right foot and wean him with my right breast."
A modest entry fee is charged. However, it’s easy to freely enter the castle from basically all sides, in case your budget is drained for the day.
Another intriguing, yet grim pitstop is the Site of Witness and Memory. This museum introduces you to the dark pages of Albanian history, when the country was tormented by communist genocide (5548 shot - 14563 imprisoned - 987 died in prison). For 4 decades and until as late as 1991, the Socialist People’s Republic of Albania under Enver Hoxha was still entirely cut off from the world, without anyone being allowed in or out. It was in fact in Shkodër that the first revolts fired up, igniting the flame of liberation into the rest of the nation. This site of memorial of what was once the reality of the warm-hearted people you will meet during this journey, is a necessary stop in order to understand the historical layers of the very grounds you are standing on.
Another intriguing, yet grim pitstop is the Site of Witness and Memory. This museum introduces you to the dark pages of Albanian history, when the country was tormented by communist genocide (5548 shot - 14563 imprisoned - 987 died in prison). For 4 decades and until as late as 1991, the Socialist People’s Republic of Albania under Enver Hoxha was still entirely cut off from the world, without anyone being allowed in or out. It was in fact in Shkodër that the first revolts fired up, igniting the flame of liberation into the rest of the nation. This site of memorial of what was once the reality of the warm-hearted people you will meet during this journey, is a necessary stop in order to understand the historical layers of the very grounds you are standing on.
Mother Teresa is a true V.I.B: Very Important Albanian.
On a more positive note, Shkodër also keeps its history alive through the art of filigree. This ancient craft consists of incredibly detailed open metalwork to construct precious gold and silver jewellery, arranged and twisted in artistic forms and motifs. Stemming from the ancient Greeks and spreading during Roman times, it seeped through into the regions of Albania which was back then part of the Byzantine Empire. The Margjelo Filigran workshop is an excellent spot in Shkodër to learn, engage and obtain Albania’s finest filigree.
On a more positive note, Shkodër also keeps its history alive through the art of filigree. This ancient craft consists of incredibly detailed open metalwork to construct precious gold and silver jewellery, arranged and twisted in artistic forms and motifs. Stemming from the ancient Greeks and spreading during Roman times, it seeped through into the regions of Albania which was back then part of the Byzantine Empire. The Margjelo Filigran workshop is an excellent spot in Shkodër to learn, engage and obtain Albania’s finest filigree.
Quick Budget Fact Overview
Albania Facts
History Recap
1000BC: Illyrians (Indo-European tribesmen). Country name from an Illyrian tribe: Arber / Albanoi. 165BC: Illyria under control Romans. 44BC: Caesar began building a colony at Butrint. 1-100: Christianity. 300-700: Goths, Huns, Avars, Serbs, Croats, and Bulgars successively invade Illyrian lands. 395: Division of Roman Empire à present-day Albania under Eastern Byzantine Empire. 700-800: Slav tribes settle. 1054: Roman and Orthodox Churches split (Orthodox don’t accept papal authority Rome). 1100-1200: Serbs occupied parts of Albania. 1204: Venice won control over most of Albania, but Byzantines regained control of south. 1385: Albanian ruler invited Ottoman forces to intervene against a rival in Battle of Savra. Start of slow expansion Ottoman Rule. 1403: Gjergj Kastrioti born: Albanian hero known as Skanderbeg who organized resistance to Ottomans in Krujë (repulsed 12 invasions) and kept Albania independent for 20+ years. ’68: Skanderbeg died and the Turks absorbed Albania into the Ottoman Empire. Conversion to Islam. 1614: Ottoman general Sulayman Pasha named Tehran (later Tirana) as the capital, after Iran’s. 1822: Albanian leader Ali Pasha was assassinated by Ottomans for promoting autonomy. ’61: First school known to use Albanian language opened in Shkodër. ‘78: Treaty of San Stefano / Treaty of Berlin: Ending Russo-Turkish War (Ottoman Empire lost numerous territories) & Divided Balkans among European powers. 1910: Mother Teresa born to an ethnic Albanian family in Skopje, Macedonia. ’12: First Balkan War (Balkan countries against Ottomans). Nov 28: Independence of Albania declared. ‘13: End First Balkan War with Treaty of London, beginning of Second Balkan War. Albania recognized as independent state: Demographics were ignored, half Albanian inhabited territories divided among Montenegro, Serbia and Greece. 1914-’18: WWI - Italian occupation. ’28: Albania kingdom under Zogu / parliament dissolved.’37: Italian occupation. ’39: WWII: Italian invasion and annexation (King Zogu fled to Greece). ‘41: Enver Hoxha becomes head of new Communist Party. ’43: German forces invade à ’44: withdraw after Communist resistance. Hoxha new leader: Brutal Stalinist rule for 40 years, mass murders, people being unable to enter or exit Albania. SU and China ties broken over ideologist ideas.’67: Limitation religious activity; Albania declared world's first atheist state. ’85: Hoxha dies. ’89: Communist rule in Eastern Europe collapses. ’90: Albanians granted right to travel abroad. Many flee. ’98: Kosovaran refugee exodus into Albania. ’03: First talks towards EU membership. ’09: Joins NATO and formally applies for EU membership à rejected in ’10.
Albania Facts
- Capital: Tirana (Tiranë)
- Population: ± 2.8 mln (Theth: 370 – Shkodër: 200,000)
- Language: Albanian
- Sq km: ± 28.748
- Currency: Lek (ALL - L)
- Electricity Outlet: C /F /E, 230v, 50Hz (standard European – check here)
- Country Code Phone: +355
- Emergency Phone: 112 (general), 127 (ambulance), 128 (fire), 112 (police)
- Visa: Check out the visa requirements here
- Vaccinations: Covid / Hep-A / Hep-B / Routine Vaccines
- Climate Shkodër: Hot Mediterranean (Csa)
- High season: Late spring – summer – early autumn (snowy in other seasons)
History Recap
1000BC: Illyrians (Indo-European tribesmen). Country name from an Illyrian tribe: Arber / Albanoi. 165BC: Illyria under control Romans. 44BC: Caesar began building a colony at Butrint. 1-100: Christianity. 300-700: Goths, Huns, Avars, Serbs, Croats, and Bulgars successively invade Illyrian lands. 395: Division of Roman Empire à present-day Albania under Eastern Byzantine Empire. 700-800: Slav tribes settle. 1054: Roman and Orthodox Churches split (Orthodox don’t accept papal authority Rome). 1100-1200: Serbs occupied parts of Albania. 1204: Venice won control over most of Albania, but Byzantines regained control of south. 1385: Albanian ruler invited Ottoman forces to intervene against a rival in Battle of Savra. Start of slow expansion Ottoman Rule. 1403: Gjergj Kastrioti born: Albanian hero known as Skanderbeg who organized resistance to Ottomans in Krujë (repulsed 12 invasions) and kept Albania independent for 20+ years. ’68: Skanderbeg died and the Turks absorbed Albania into the Ottoman Empire. Conversion to Islam. 1614: Ottoman general Sulayman Pasha named Tehran (later Tirana) as the capital, after Iran’s. 1822: Albanian leader Ali Pasha was assassinated by Ottomans for promoting autonomy. ’61: First school known to use Albanian language opened in Shkodër. ‘78: Treaty of San Stefano / Treaty of Berlin: Ending Russo-Turkish War (Ottoman Empire lost numerous territories) & Divided Balkans among European powers. 1910: Mother Teresa born to an ethnic Albanian family in Skopje, Macedonia. ’12: First Balkan War (Balkan countries against Ottomans). Nov 28: Independence of Albania declared. ‘13: End First Balkan War with Treaty of London, beginning of Second Balkan War. Albania recognized as independent state: Demographics were ignored, half Albanian inhabited territories divided among Montenegro, Serbia and Greece. 1914-’18: WWI - Italian occupation. ’28: Albania kingdom under Zogu / parliament dissolved.’37: Italian occupation. ’39: WWII: Italian invasion and annexation (King Zogu fled to Greece). ‘41: Enver Hoxha becomes head of new Communist Party. ’43: German forces invade à ’44: withdraw after Communist resistance. Hoxha new leader: Brutal Stalinist rule for 40 years, mass murders, people being unable to enter or exit Albania. SU and China ties broken over ideologist ideas.’67: Limitation religious activity; Albania declared world's first atheist state. ’85: Hoxha dies. ’89: Communist rule in Eastern Europe collapses. ’90: Albanians granted right to travel abroad. Many flee. ’98: Kosovaran refugee exodus into Albania. ’03: First talks towards EU membership. ’09: Joins NATO and formally applies for EU membership à rejected in ’10.
FREE Recommended Sights / Activities*
PAID Recommended Sights / Activities*
* A relatively complete overview of all sights and activities can be found on TripAdvisor… these lists include the ones I personally recommend.
Evening Entertainment
Local Festivals
- Sights Shkodër: Skadar/Shkodër Lake; Mesi Bridge; Rruga Kole Idromeno Street; Ebu Bekr Mosque; Shkodra Cathedral; Monument to Mother Teresa.
- Hikes / Nature Theth, Albanian Alps: Theth-Valbonë Hike; Blue Eye Hike (passing Grunasi Waterfall); Maja e Arapit Hike; Multi-Day Peak of the Balkans Track; International Megatrail Via Dinarica. Info and GPS in article. No guides needed.
PAID Recommended Sights / Activities*
- Sights Shkodër: Rozafa Castle (although you can walk in for free from the sides); Restorant Tradita Gegë & Toskë (folklore and live music).
- Museums Shkodër: Site of Witness and Memory; Shkodër Historical Museum.
* A relatively complete overview of all sights and activities can be found on TripAdvisor… these lists include the ones I personally recommend.
Evening Entertainment
- Nightlife Areas: Historic City Centre Shkodër. Theth doesn’t have a nightlife.
- Theatres: Teatri Migjeni Shkodër.
Local Festivals
- Carnaval (Venetian-style) - Shkodër, February.
- Flower Festival - Shkodër, May.
- Lake of Shkodra Day – Shkodër, June 3d.
- Za Fest – Theth, July.
- Shkodra Jazz Festival – Shkodër, August.
- Giffoni Film Festival - Shkodër, November.
Budget Bites
Sleep Cheap
- Bigger Supermarkets: In Shkodër Spar, BIG, Euro. There are no supermarkets in Theth, besides a tiny overpriced mini-market.
- Local Dishes: Fërgesë (stew); Byrek (stuffed pastry); Tavë Kosi (baked lamb/chicken in yoghurt); Kackavall Në Furrë Me Domate (baked cheese with tomatoes); Speca Me Gjize (cheese-stuffed bell peppers); Speca te Mbushur me Oriz (stuffed bellpeppers with rice); Gjel Deti me Përshesh (baked turkey with bread mash); Peshk Dhe Pherime Ne Tave (fish and veg); Flija (baked crepes); Jani Me Fasule (white bean soup); Qofte (lamb meat balls); Tave Mishi (mixed grill); Sarme (cabbage rolls stuffed with rice and meat); Qifqi (fried rice balls); Pispili (cornbread with leek); Trilece (cake); Ashure (dessert); Petulla (fried dough).
- The Veg Situation: Going vegetarian is rather easy in Albania, but going vegan is next to impossible as milk / egg is in all that remains. There are luckily quite some local vegetarian dishes, some already explained above. Local veg dishes: Fërgesë verorë (summer version); Byrek (choose cheese or spinach); Kackavall Në Furrë Me Domate; Speca Me Gjize; Speca te Mbushur me Oriz; Flija; Jani Me Fasule; Tave Mishi (vegan); Jufka (pasta cooked in butter); Ima lam Bajalldi (eggplant cooked in oven - vegan); Turli (vegetables stew - vegan); Tarator (cold soup); Salce Kosi (yoghurt sauce); Qifqi; Pispili; Trilece; Ashure; Petulla.
- National Drink: Rakia. Some local beer brands include Birra Korca, Bira Tirana and Birra Stela. Albania has wine production, but not as prominent as in Montenegro or Macedonia.
Sleep Cheap
- Hostels / Hotels: are relatively cheap in Albania compared to the rest of Europe, although more expensive than in other Balkan countries such as Montenegro, Bosnia and Herzegovina and Serbia. Theth is even more expensive, due to its popularity. I personally found the best deals on Booking.com, which is generally cheaper than Air BnB listings here. If you use it often enough, Genius-discounts are applied. An alternative is Opodo. A nuisance in Albania is that once you booked, that doesn’t necessarily mean it’s actually confirmed: In my case, often the booking was immediately denied by the owner (or you’re not informed at all and show up in front of a closed door): Always call/email to confirm 100%. Payment generally happens on-site in cash. Writer’s choice: In Shkodër I stayed at a cheap wooden hut in Windmill Guesthouse, and had a pleasant stay. In Theth I initially booked Thethi Paradise, where we arrived only to find out they closed for the season (arrival at night, with no wifi signal to book something else – thanks assholes, for keeping your listing open on Booking.com and not advising people who booked). We ended up staying at Bujtina Terthorja, which was incredibly basic and had no heating in the freezing rooms, but the hospitality received was overwhelming and the home-made food mouth-watering delicious.
- Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost (unless you put a third-world country as homebase), but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate review explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your potential host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored).
- Housesitting: is an amazing exchange allowing you to stay short- or long-term in somebody’s house, while looking after their property and pets. There are many different websites, most of them paid, the main one being Trusted Housesitters… but once you landed a sit, the subscription fee pays itself back quickly. ‘
Photo by Miles Watson Photography.
Mama Said
Transport
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Mama Said
- Safety: Don’t believe the gossip of people who never actually been here: Albania is safe! Crime rates are low and the level of hospitality is heart-warming. People go out of their way to make you feel welcome and assist you in any way they can. Of course, like everywhere in the world, use your common sense: Don’t walk alone in remote areas after sunset, don’t take valuables along etc.
- Tap Water: is drinkable.
- There are no ATM’s and supermarkets in Theth (besides a tiny overpriced mini-market) and paying by card isn’t generally accepted. Cash out and shop in Koplik or Shkodër. I recommend opening a Wise account and obtaining their free debit card in order to cash out and pay in Albanian lek for the accurate, live exchange rate.
- The only bank that doesn’t charge an ATM fee is Credins Bank.
- Don’t speak Albanian? Your Italian language skills might help! Due to long, recent occupation periods by Italians (check the History Recap) many Albanians speak some basic Italian.
Transport
- Walking: Shkodër has a compact, walkable city centre. Keep in mind that all roads in Shkodër have been renamed, and the old and new names are both used: very confusing! Theth is a tiny, and walking is the main attraction by all means.
- Cycling: Cycling is possible in this part of Albania and Shkodër is the most bicycle-friendly city in the entire country. The road from Shkodër to Theth is made of comfortable asphalt, but is however quite narrow. The Blue Eye Hike can be done mostly on bicycle, but the other described trails are very steep and don’t provide trails easy to navigate by bicycle.
- City Buses / Tram / Metro: There are some city buses, but navigation tools such as Google Maps and Moovit don’t work here. For schedules (as far as there are some) and directions you’ll have to ask around at the spot where you are standing.
- Taxi / Uber: Taxi’s can be hailed down on the street and are affordable. Negotiate the price in advance, or asked to have the meter turned on.
- Intercity Buses: When I visited in off-season (autumn), there were no buses from Montenegro to Albania, nor any public transport options from Shkodër to Theth. The only way was taking a taxi, hitchhiking or renting a car. In high season, these services are available (international buses + minibuses between Shkodër and Theth), with varying schedules. Check in the bus station the day before to have the latest information. The Shkodër bus station is located at Rruga Karl Gega… the minibus-station is located at Bulevardi Bujar Bishanaku, with hotel-pickups from Theth or Valbonë (you buy a return).
- Train: There is an old, slow, communist train network connecting Shkodër and Kashar, 10km outside of Tirana. There are only a few daily connections. As there are often last-minute time-table amendments and cancellations, I recommend buying your ticket one day in advance and double-checking again on the same day. The train station is located at Rruga Revolucioni Antikomunist Hungarez. Read more about European railway passes at Eurorail and Interrail.
- Car Rental: Rental Shkodra is your recommended car rental company. You can pick up your rental car here and return it in Tirana, convenient!
- Airport: Tirana International Airport (TIA); Podgorica Airport (TGD – Montenegro).
- Hitchhiking: is relatively safe in Albania, and especially in the countryside you can see even locals doing it. However, it’s common practice to offer payment, so verify this before getting into the car to avoid awkward situations. Take into account that English is not widely spoken (Italian is!), so chit-chat might be complicated.
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- National Destinations Close By: Shëngjin, Tirana, Durrës, Krujë, Mount Korab.
- International Destinations Close By: Macedonia, Kosovo, Montenegro, Greece, Italy.
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