Buenos Aires Museums
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Buenos Aires, we meet again.
Zzzzzzzppt! *2-year-flashback* I just broke up with my ex after a relationship of 5,5 years and booked a 1-way-ticket to South America, starting in Buenos Aires. My female friends: “Oehh Argentinean men are so HOT, you’ll be hooked up in no-time!” Me, once landed: “Where the hell are you girls talking about, all men are small and ugly here! Ugh!” Now, before the whole male population of Argentina will invade my house with burning torches (I know what particular proud folks the porteños are), let me nuance it a bit for you: I didn’t think ALL men were face-in-the-blender-ugly... just a percentage... which might be slightly higher than in countries like, let’s say Australia, Sweden or Uruguay. I just felt like I was surrounded by Al Pacino look-a-likes, and I’m more a Johnny-Depp-kinda-gall (but then again, who isn’t?). Anyway, life always has a way of playing pranks on you. I had to enter Panama for it, but I did fall head over heels in love... with an Argentinean. The good man decided to drop his job the moment we met and to follow me to wherever my restless mind would take me. This lasted for a year, until he opted to return to his hometown, the mighty city of Buenos Aires, to finish up some studies he once started and to scrape together some cash to keep him going. So that’s the story: after almost 2 years of traveling I returned to my starting point... for how long it would last. The answer to that: Not long… but well, I used Buenos Aires as my homebase to explore Patagonia, more of Chile, Bolivia, Paraguay, Brazil, Uruguay and of course the splendid country of Argentina itself. My homebase for love, for sex and to breathe (the exhaust fumes).
Zzzzzzzppt! *2-year-flashback* I just broke up with my ex after a relationship of 5,5 years and booked a 1-way-ticket to South America, starting in Buenos Aires. My female friends: “Oehh Argentinean men are so HOT, you’ll be hooked up in no-time!” Me, once landed: “Where the hell are you girls talking about, all men are small and ugly here! Ugh!” Now, before the whole male population of Argentina will invade my house with burning torches (I know what particular proud folks the porteños are), let me nuance it a bit for you: I didn’t think ALL men were face-in-the-blender-ugly... just a percentage... which might be slightly higher than in countries like, let’s say Australia, Sweden or Uruguay. I just felt like I was surrounded by Al Pacino look-a-likes, and I’m more a Johnny-Depp-kinda-gall (but then again, who isn’t?). Anyway, life always has a way of playing pranks on you. I had to enter Panama for it, but I did fall head over heels in love... with an Argentinean. The good man decided to drop his job the moment we met and to follow me to wherever my restless mind would take me. This lasted for a year, until he opted to return to his hometown, the mighty city of Buenos Aires, to finish up some studies he once started and to scrape together some cash to keep him going. So that’s the story: after almost 2 years of traveling I returned to my starting point... for how long it would last. The answer to that: Not long… but well, I used Buenos Aires as my homebase to explore Patagonia, more of Chile, Bolivia, Paraguay, Brazil, Uruguay and of course the splendid country of Argentina itself. My homebase for love, for sex and to breathe (the exhaust fumes).
I knew my experience with the city was going to be different this time. I dated a bit with Buenos Aires in the past, but now I was moving in. I was going to discover all his faces, all his moods and all his tempers. I walked the streets with a different sense of perception. I noticed the tiny things, like the little dog paws pressed in the cement of every side walk of every street, as no one bothers to fence off the site after minor construction work. I saw the completely closed off balconies, wired from top to bottom (even the 8th floor!), telling the story about how far robbers will go in the city of income disparity. I listened to the nasal female voices that all seemed to sound the same. I admired the high-end museums alternated with cutting-edge street art and felt my life being colored in. I enjoyed how the serious faces of the Argentines break open into a smile once you graciously smirk at them on the street. I watched people dancing tango in the parks, wearing sweatpants and uggs. I saw men kissing each other as a gesture of friendship, something unthinkable in my culture unless they share a bed.
I noticed the contradictions...
I was surprised about the absolute mental chaos and unorganized anarchy of local public transport, but the almost paranoid strictness when it comes to forming lines. I tried to understand how the ‘Capital of Steaks’ could have more vegan restaurants and events than any other place I traveled to. I thought it was odd that so many xenophobian Argentines are prejudiced about basically every country bordering them, but they are an almost exact copy of Italians - including the ‘papedipaaaapi’-accent and overheated hand gestures – and a mix of descendants of a wide variety of cultures. I learned that health care, education, museums and theatres are (almost) all free, but food, clothes and furniture exceeds European prices (even though I made less here than half of my European salary here). I tried to understand. But I couldn’t, so I just embraced it.
I was surprised about the absolute mental chaos and unorganized anarchy of local public transport, but the almost paranoid strictness when it comes to forming lines. I tried to understand how the ‘Capital of Steaks’ could have more vegan restaurants and events than any other place I traveled to. I thought it was odd that so many xenophobian Argentines are prejudiced about basically every country bordering them, but they are an almost exact copy of Italians - including the ‘papedipaaaapi’-accent and overheated hand gestures – and a mix of descendants of a wide variety of cultures. I learned that health care, education, museums and theatres are (almost) all free, but food, clothes and furniture exceeds European prices (even though I made less here than half of my European salary here). I tried to understand. But I couldn’t, so I just embraced it.
I slowly fell in love with Buenos Aires. With its people, its inconsistency, its chaos... but especially with its museums. I never aspired to be a museum-fanatic, but here I am. Once I learned there are over a hundred in this town I set myself a goal: You may not leave this place before you saw all of them. AAAAAaaaLLLLlll!!! Yeah... well, let’s see how far I can get.
Here we go. This is my list so far, accompanied with all details, free days and my personal experiences and devastating / glorifying opinions.
* All prices are in Argentinean pesos ($). Please double-check the website given. Inflation in Argentina is one of the highest in the world, prices literally going up every week.
** As every museum in Buenos Aires has quite some titles I ordered it alphabetically on the recognizable part of the name, then after the comma the rest of the ‘official’ name.
*** For the best tours around the city, covering a wide variety of the museums reviewed in this article, I can recommend Indus Travel Tours. Have a look at their tour Buenos Aires tour offer at this website!
* All prices are in Argentinean pesos ($). Please double-check the website given. Inflation in Argentina is one of the highest in the world, prices literally going up every week.
** As every museum in Buenos Aires has quite some titles I ordered it alphabetically on the recognizable part of the name, then after the comma the rest of the ‘official’ name.
*** For the best tours around the city, covering a wide variety of the museums reviewed in this article, I can recommend Indus Travel Tours. Have a look at their tour Buenos Aires tour offer at this website!
Ana Frank, Centro
Superi 2647, Coghlan.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Sat 14:00-19:00 Closed: Mon & Sun. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $60. Students: $45.
Ana Frank? Yes, Anne Frank. Don’t ask me why, but Latino’s think it’s fun to entirely change names once they go international. Even though Juan would still be Juan and Ricardo still Ricardo in my country (that’d be Jan & Richard in Dutch), in Argentina you get an entirely different alias. So Estefania made her way to Centro Ana Frank to sniff up a little bit of that home-culture she misses every now and then. Because our black page in history is so dark it even reached continents overseas. Why did I go here if we have the original hiding address, the ‘Achterhuis’, in Amsterdam, a place I visited 2 times already? I honestly don’t have a clue, as this is basically the same museum, but then a replica. Does that make it a disappointment? For me maybe, but for Argentineans who don’t have Amsterdam around the corner and are interested in learning more about the Jewish holocaust, Nazism and the Second World War it’s an interesting opportunity.
Superi 2647, Coghlan.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Sat 14:00-19:00 Closed: Mon & Sun. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $60. Students: $45.
Ana Frank? Yes, Anne Frank. Don’t ask me why, but Latino’s think it’s fun to entirely change names once they go international. Even though Juan would still be Juan and Ricardo still Ricardo in my country (that’d be Jan & Richard in Dutch), in Argentina you get an entirely different alias. So Estefania made her way to Centro Ana Frank to sniff up a little bit of that home-culture she misses every now and then. Because our black page in history is so dark it even reached continents overseas. Why did I go here if we have the original hiding address, the ‘Achterhuis’, in Amsterdam, a place I visited 2 times already? I honestly don’t have a clue, as this is basically the same museum, but then a replica. Does that make it a disappointment? For me maybe, but for Argentineans who don’t have Amsterdam around the corner and are interested in learning more about the Jewish holocaust, Nazism and the Second World War it’s an interesting opportunity.
Arte Decorativo, Museo Nacional de
Avenida del Libertador 1902, Retiro.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Sun 14:00-19:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $20. Free days: Tue.
You are invited in the house of Errazuriz Alvear. You won’t find him anymore, but his residence is all yours to admire. Do you remember those boring visits to the apartment of that very old and rich aunt when you were just a child, your parents insisting you can look but absolutely not touch anything? Well, this feels a bit like that. The gothic statues, baroque furniture pieces and neoclassic golden vases are a joy to behold, but I couldn’t let go of the fear to accidentally thrust my backpack against it and knock a $5000 piece into a million fragments. That said, if you’re a fan of brownish paintings displaying tableaus of old Venice, portraits of cocky French with hairpieces and white powdered faces, or western interpretations of antique Chinese furniture, well: this is your new hang-out!
Avenida del Libertador 1902, Retiro.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Sun 14:00-19:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $20. Free days: Tue.
You are invited in the house of Errazuriz Alvear. You won’t find him anymore, but his residence is all yours to admire. Do you remember those boring visits to the apartment of that very old and rich aunt when you were just a child, your parents insisting you can look but absolutely not touch anything? Well, this feels a bit like that. The gothic statues, baroque furniture pieces and neoclassic golden vases are a joy to behold, but I couldn’t let go of the fear to accidentally thrust my backpack against it and knock a $5000 piece into a million fragments. That said, if you’re a fan of brownish paintings displaying tableaus of old Venice, portraits of cocky French with hairpieces and white powdered faces, or western interpretations of antique Chinese furniture, well: this is your new hang-out!
Arte Hispanoamericano Isaac Fernández Blanco, Museo de
Suipacha 1422, Retiro.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Fri 13:00-18:00 / Sat-Sun 11:00-17:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $10. Students: Wed free.
As I went to pay my respects at the monument where the Israeli embassy was attacked in 1992 by the means of a car bomb (29 deaths, 242 injured), I was close to Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano Isaac Fernández Blanco anyway. Quite a mouth full. Does this fancy title do justice to the interior, you ask me? Well, if you’re hot for colonial art, religious icons, furniture, old books and silverware you’re going to be one happy camper. If you’re not (if you’re me), this is going to be a looooong and boring afternoon. Next.
Suipacha 1422, Retiro.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Fri 13:00-18:00 / Sat-Sun 11:00-17:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $10. Students: Wed free.
As I went to pay my respects at the monument where the Israeli embassy was attacked in 1992 by the means of a car bomb (29 deaths, 242 injured), I was close to Museo de Arte Hispanoamericano Isaac Fernández Blanco anyway. Quite a mouth full. Does this fancy title do justice to the interior, you ask me? Well, if you’re hot for colonial art, religious icons, furniture, old books and silverware you’re going to be one happy camper. If you’re not (if you’re me), this is going to be a looooong and boring afternoon. Next.
Badii, Museo Líbero
11 de Setiembre 1990, Belgrano.
Opening times (per 2017): The museum is officially closed since 2011. It only opens its doors on ‘Noche de Museos’.
Entrance: Free.
The map ‘Museos para visitar’ led me to Barrancas de Belgrano, which I visited before to follow the free tango classes in the weekend (5PM; Milonga from 7PM). However, where the Museo Líbero Badii was supposed to be I found a closed gate instead. I rang the doorbell. A man came out, who told me the museum had been closed since 2011 because of a lack of funds. I found this strange, as it’s part of a bank, the ‘Banco Credito Argentino’... but then I thought about the major debt of this country and it indeed made sense. He could open the museum just for me if I wanted? I wanted it. While I spent time admiring the exquisite private art collection, the good man scraped together whatever he could still find in the attic to compose a true ‘museum goodie bag’. “Me siento como una reina”, I feel like a queen, I said. “If your country accepts an ‘Argentina’ as their queen, that’s the least I could do’, he winked. Needless to say, my heart was irreversibly conquered.
11 de Setiembre 1990, Belgrano.
Opening times (per 2017): The museum is officially closed since 2011. It only opens its doors on ‘Noche de Museos’.
Entrance: Free.
The map ‘Museos para visitar’ led me to Barrancas de Belgrano, which I visited before to follow the free tango classes in the weekend (5PM; Milonga from 7PM). However, where the Museo Líbero Badii was supposed to be I found a closed gate instead. I rang the doorbell. A man came out, who told me the museum had been closed since 2011 because of a lack of funds. I found this strange, as it’s part of a bank, the ‘Banco Credito Argentino’... but then I thought about the major debt of this country and it indeed made sense. He could open the museum just for me if I wanted? I wanted it. While I spent time admiring the exquisite private art collection, the good man scraped together whatever he could still find in the attic to compose a true ‘museum goodie bag’. “Me siento como una reina”, I feel like a queen, I said. “If your country accepts an ‘Argentina’ as their queen, that’s the least I could do’, he winked. Needless to say, my heart was irreversibly conquered.
Banco Provincia, Museo
Sarmiento 364, Montserrat.
Opening times (per 207): Mon-Fri 10:30-18:00. Closed: Sat-Sun. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free.
I was a little bit confused, as Museo Banco Provincia is the same as Museo Historico Dr. Arturo Jauretche. I also had some troubles to visit it, as they don’t open in the weekends. So I came back several times until I finally found it open (yes, with my lifestyle I keep forgetting what day of the week it is, my bet). I was kind of hoping this museum would give me a sneak-peek into the disastrous inflation and neck-fracturing bank- and state corruption that drags this country down deeper and deeper into Inferno… but no, none of that. This museum is more of a glorification of one specific bank: You guessed it, Banco Provincia. Did that interest me? No, it did not.
Sarmiento 364, Montserrat.
Opening times (per 207): Mon-Fri 10:30-18:00. Closed: Sat-Sun. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free.
I was a little bit confused, as Museo Banco Provincia is the same as Museo Historico Dr. Arturo Jauretche. I also had some troubles to visit it, as they don’t open in the weekends. So I came back several times until I finally found it open (yes, with my lifestyle I keep forgetting what day of the week it is, my bet). I was kind of hoping this museum would give me a sneak-peek into the disastrous inflation and neck-fracturing bank- and state corruption that drags this country down deeper and deeper into Inferno… but no, none of that. This museum is more of a glorification of one specific bank: You guessed it, Banco Provincia. Did that interest me? No, it did not.
Bellas Artes, Museo Nacional de
Avenida del Libertador 1473, Recoleta.
Opening times (per 2016): Tue-Fri 11:30-19:30 / Sat-Sun 9:30-19:30. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free. Free English tours: Tue, Wed & Fri 13:00.
If you consider yourself an art lover, this is it. Much better than this you won’t find it in Buenos Aires. I guess you can even get away with just visiting this museum during your short visit and nothing else, as it’s hard to be topped (without saying anything negative about all other incredible art collections this capital hosts). Ok, after all these crazy statements I owe you an explanation, don’t you think? Am I not slightly exaggerating? No, ladies and gentlemen, I am not, and I have a whole army of artistic hotshots to back me up: Where else do you find work of Gauguin, Renoir, Manet, Monet, Degas, Toulouse, Cézanne, Rousseau, Chagall, Menard, Sisley, Van Gogh, Rubens, Rembrandt, Kisling, Picasso and Pissarro all under 1 roof. Well, I can think of some places, but it’s nevertheless impressive. The classic is presented next to modern and the impressionist next to the gothic. Of course there are some artistic fungi to be found, like the nauseating work of types like Rothko, Klee and Kandinsky, but as this seems hard to be weeded out on a global level it’s a mistake I can forgive. This was the highlight of my entire week.
Avenida del Libertador 1473, Recoleta.
Opening times (per 2016): Tue-Fri 11:30-19:30 / Sat-Sun 9:30-19:30. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free. Free English tours: Tue, Wed & Fri 13:00.
If you consider yourself an art lover, this is it. Much better than this you won’t find it in Buenos Aires. I guess you can even get away with just visiting this museum during your short visit and nothing else, as it’s hard to be topped (without saying anything negative about all other incredible art collections this capital hosts). Ok, after all these crazy statements I owe you an explanation, don’t you think? Am I not slightly exaggerating? No, ladies and gentlemen, I am not, and I have a whole army of artistic hotshots to back me up: Where else do you find work of Gauguin, Renoir, Manet, Monet, Degas, Toulouse, Cézanne, Rousseau, Chagall, Menard, Sisley, Van Gogh, Rubens, Rembrandt, Kisling, Picasso and Pissarro all under 1 roof. Well, I can think of some places, but it’s nevertheless impressive. The classic is presented next to modern and the impressionist next to the gothic. Of course there are some artistic fungi to be found, like the nauseating work of types like Rothko, Klee and Kandinsky, but as this seems hard to be weeded out on a global level it’s a mistake I can forgive. This was the highlight of my entire week.
Benito Quinquela Martin, Museo
Avenida Pedro de Mendoza 1843-1835, La Boca.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Fri 10:00-18:00 / Sat-Sun 11:15-18:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free (voluntary contribution: $40).
This is not the best museum in the La Boca neighborhood, that’s Fundacion Proa, but now you’re here why won’t you pay a visit anyway? It’s free after all. It focuses on art related to shipping trade, which makes sense as it’s located right in the harbor. Art inspired by the adventures of the sea, is that a good thing? In some cases the answer is a loud and clear ‘yes’, other times I had to conclude they might have been better off sticking to navigating that boat. Benito Quinqué Martin is without doubt the most talented painter exposed in this exhibition area, which explains why the museum is named after him. Make sure you don’t skip the modern art section slapping you in the face with its delightful weirdness. Because weirdness is good.
Avenida Pedro de Mendoza 1843-1835, La Boca.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Fri 10:00-18:00 / Sat-Sun 11:15-18:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free (voluntary contribution: $40).
This is not the best museum in the La Boca neighborhood, that’s Fundacion Proa, but now you’re here why won’t you pay a visit anyway? It’s free after all. It focuses on art related to shipping trade, which makes sense as it’s located right in the harbor. Art inspired by the adventures of the sea, is that a good thing? In some cases the answer is a loud and clear ‘yes’, other times I had to conclude they might have been better off sticking to navigating that boat. Benito Quinqué Martin is without doubt the most talented painter exposed in this exhibition area, which explains why the museum is named after him. Make sure you don’t skip the modern art section slapping you in the face with its delightful weirdness. Because weirdness is good.
Cabildo
Bolivar 65, Montserrat.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue, Wed, Fri 10:30-17:00 / Thu 10:30-20:00 / Sat-Sun 10:30-18:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $15. Free days: Tue. Free Spanish tours: Tue, Wed, Fri 15:30 / Thu 15:30 & 18:30 / Sat-Sun 11:00 & 12:30 & 14:00 & 15:30 & 16:45.
Cabildo is a building at the Plaza de Mayo and is historically known for being used as the seat of the Spanish (post-)colonial council (the ‘ayuntamiento’) and the prior government house of the Viceroyalty of Rio de la Plata. Is that interesting to see in our epoch? You decide. They say they transformed it into a museum of the Cabildo (duh!) and May Revolution, but there’s honestly not much to find back about it. There are a few displays in Spanish with less info than you could find on Wikipedia and a minimal amount of rather unimpressive artifacts. The building itself is not even half as thrilling as for example the Casa Rosada on the other side of the plaza, which opposed to the Cabildo is free to visit. Yet, I found the place slammed with crowds, which took the last bit of fun out of it.
Bolivar 65, Montserrat.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue, Wed, Fri 10:30-17:00 / Thu 10:30-20:00 / Sat-Sun 10:30-18:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $15. Free days: Tue. Free Spanish tours: Tue, Wed, Fri 15:30 / Thu 15:30 & 18:30 / Sat-Sun 11:00 & 12:30 & 14:00 & 15:30 & 16:45.
Cabildo is a building at the Plaza de Mayo and is historically known for being used as the seat of the Spanish (post-)colonial council (the ‘ayuntamiento’) and the prior government house of the Viceroyalty of Rio de la Plata. Is that interesting to see in our epoch? You decide. They say they transformed it into a museum of the Cabildo (duh!) and May Revolution, but there’s honestly not much to find back about it. There are a few displays in Spanish with less info than you could find on Wikipedia and a minimal amount of rather unimpressive artifacts. The building itself is not even half as thrilling as for example the Casa Rosada on the other side of the plaza, which opposed to the Cabildo is free to visit. Yet, I found the place slammed with crowds, which took the last bit of fun out of it.
Calcos y Escultura Ernesto de la Cárcova, Museo de
Avenida España 1701, Puerto Madero.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Fri: 11:00-18:00, Sat-Sun: 11:00-18:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $10. Students: $5.
If you have never been to Florence and Rome, this might be a good alternative. If you did go there, you’re just going to see replicas of the original work you’ve already seen there. On top of that, many copies of works that can be admired in Le Louvre and the British Museum are exposed in this copy-cat museum…. All of those places I checked off my bucket list a long time ago. That said, this exposition offers an interesting variety of Renaissance, Romantic, Gothic, Egyptian, Greek, Roman and Mayan art.
Avenida España 1701, Puerto Madero.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Fri: 11:00-18:00, Sat-Sun: 11:00-18:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $10. Students: $5.
If you have never been to Florence and Rome, this might be a good alternative. If you did go there, you’re just going to see replicas of the original work you’ve already seen there. On top of that, many copies of works that can be admired in Le Louvre and the British Museum are exposed in this copy-cat museum…. All of those places I checked off my bucket list a long time ago. That said, this exposition offers an interesting variety of Renaissance, Romantic, Gothic, Egyptian, Greek, Roman and Mayan art.
Carlos Gardel, Museo Casa
Jean Jaurés 735, Balvanera.
Opening times (per 2016): Mon, Wed- Fri: 11:00-18:00 / Sat-Sun 10:00-19:00. Closed: Tue. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free (voluntary contribution $10).
If there’s one thing I can’t neglect as a beginning tango-dancer and Argentinean temporary resident, it’s Carlos Gardel. The Argentino, the Argentinean pur sang! Hm, not really. The good man is actually from France. And his name is also not Carlos Gardel, it’s Charles Gardes. Besides France and Argentina, also Uruguay claims this vendetta to be theirs. Their family held a Uruguayan passport, which the guide in the museum claimed to be a false one (it makes sense, as he was a war deserter and couldn’t re-enter France with his original name). No legend without myths, right? Because wherever he came from, his legacy lasts. This stylish womanizer is the personification of tango, but besides that also deserved his recognition as a movie star. All of this and more, like his tragic death due to a plane crash in the Colombian Medellín, I learned because I visited this small but intriguing museum, housed in the place he and his mother once called a home. Recommended!
Free tango classes are offered on Saturdays. The museum offers also many other paid courses. Check the website for current schedules.
Jean Jaurés 735, Balvanera.
Opening times (per 2016): Mon, Wed- Fri: 11:00-18:00 / Sat-Sun 10:00-19:00. Closed: Tue. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free (voluntary contribution $10).
If there’s one thing I can’t neglect as a beginning tango-dancer and Argentinean temporary resident, it’s Carlos Gardel. The Argentino, the Argentinean pur sang! Hm, not really. The good man is actually from France. And his name is also not Carlos Gardel, it’s Charles Gardes. Besides France and Argentina, also Uruguay claims this vendetta to be theirs. Their family held a Uruguayan passport, which the guide in the museum claimed to be a false one (it makes sense, as he was a war deserter and couldn’t re-enter France with his original name). No legend without myths, right? Because wherever he came from, his legacy lasts. This stylish womanizer is the personification of tango, but besides that also deserved his recognition as a movie star. All of this and more, like his tragic death due to a plane crash in the Colombian Medellín, I learned because I visited this small but intriguing museum, housed in the place he and his mother once called a home. Recommended!
Free tango classes are offered on Saturdays. The museum offers also many other paid courses. Check the website for current schedules.
Casa de la Cultura, Ex Edificio del Diario La Prensa
Avenida de Mayo 575, Montserrat
Opening times (per 2016): Sat 16:00 & 17:00 / Sun 11:00-16:00. Closed: Mon-Fri. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free.
So I came in here by accident. I was looking for the Palacio de Gobierno where apparently free tours are organized in the weekends (on paper, not in reality), but it was closed. I saw a door on the side half-open and decided to get in to inform about it, upon which a few ladies told me I could come back in an hour for the tour. Still convinced I was waiting on the Palacio de Gobierno tour I came back, waited another half hour after which I got picked up by a friendly man who showed me, the tour group consisting of 1 person, around the building… which wasn’t the Palacio de Gobierno, it was the old building of the La Prensa newspaper, now a government office building called Casa de la Cultura. This was in fact super interesting! I got guided along the devices, the offices, the old entrance for the horse and carriages, the foundations of the building and all its artwork. There was even a room completely covered in gold leaf where people like Albert Einstein held some conferences. From the heavy doors imported to France to the Dionysius and Athena on the façade, I saw fascinating things from a building I passed so many times without even noticing. We, rushed modern people, got so blind for beauty! Go and have a look once you’re there, it’s more fascinating than the heavily visited Cabildo building across the street.
Avenida de Mayo 575, Montserrat
Opening times (per 2016): Sat 16:00 & 17:00 / Sun 11:00-16:00. Closed: Mon-Fri. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free.
So I came in here by accident. I was looking for the Palacio de Gobierno where apparently free tours are organized in the weekends (on paper, not in reality), but it was closed. I saw a door on the side half-open and decided to get in to inform about it, upon which a few ladies told me I could come back in an hour for the tour. Still convinced I was waiting on the Palacio de Gobierno tour I came back, waited another half hour after which I got picked up by a friendly man who showed me, the tour group consisting of 1 person, around the building… which wasn’t the Palacio de Gobierno, it was the old building of the La Prensa newspaper, now a government office building called Casa de la Cultura. This was in fact super interesting! I got guided along the devices, the offices, the old entrance for the horse and carriages, the foundations of the building and all its artwork. There was even a room completely covered in gold leaf where people like Albert Einstein held some conferences. From the heavy doors imported to France to the Dionysius and Athena on the façade, I saw fascinating things from a building I passed so many times without even noticing. We, rushed modern people, got so blind for beauty! Go and have a look once you’re there, it’s more fascinating than the heavily visited Cabildo building across the street.
Casa Rosada, Museo
Plaza de Mayo, Retiro.
Opening times (per 2016): Wed-Sun 10:00-18:00. Closed: Mon-Tue. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free.
Don’t be mistaken. This is Museo del Bicentinario, but after the Bicentinario (200 years of Argentinean independence) the name changed into Museo Casa Rosada. Luck had it that I visited this museum exactly on the day of the Bicentinario, which gave it an extra touch don’t you think? Inside you can find the old walls, pictures from the past and an extensive collection of presidential objects. By the means of video displays you can follow the presidential path of Argentina from the very beginning, supported by artworks and artifacts. Extra points for the honesty of this governmental display: As far as I know nothing is left out, not even the killings and disappearances during the military regime. Interesting!
Don’t forget that you can also visit the Casa Rosada itself with a free guided tour. The English tours are on Saturday and Sunday, staring at 14:30. You have to make a reservation on this website and bring your passport.
Plaza de Mayo, Retiro.
Opening times (per 2016): Wed-Sun 10:00-18:00. Closed: Mon-Tue. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free.
Don’t be mistaken. This is Museo del Bicentinario, but after the Bicentinario (200 years of Argentinean independence) the name changed into Museo Casa Rosada. Luck had it that I visited this museum exactly on the day of the Bicentinario, which gave it an extra touch don’t you think? Inside you can find the old walls, pictures from the past and an extensive collection of presidential objects. By the means of video displays you can follow the presidential path of Argentina from the very beginning, supported by artworks and artifacts. Extra points for the honesty of this governmental display: As far as I know nothing is left out, not even the killings and disappearances during the military regime. Interesting!
Don’t forget that you can also visit the Casa Rosada itself with a free guided tour. The English tours are on Saturday and Sunday, staring at 14:30. You have to make a reservation on this website and bring your passport.
Collection Arte Amalia Lacroze de Fortabat
Olga Cossettini 141, Puerto Madero.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $80. Students $40. Wed: $40 & free for students. Free guided visits: Tue-Sun 15:00-17:00.
You want to hear a girl lose her shit about a cultural institution? Hold my drink. Marvelous! Remarkable! Bewildering! Ok, a tiny investment has to be made, but never lose the price-quality ratio out of sight in this case. In this extraordinary hangout overlooking the fancy Puerto Madero harbor you will make all your artistic desires come true. I name a Van Gogh, a Chagall and a Brueghel to begin with. From landscapes to modern art parodies and the Argentinean artistic crème de la crème like Pueyrredon, Badii and Xul Solar… this museum has it all. Let me tell you something: even the building is worth a visit! Yes, yes, YES, this is it! Why are you still sitting there?
Olga Cossettini 141, Puerto Madero.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $80. Students $40. Wed: $40 & free for students. Free guided visits: Tue-Sun 15:00-17:00.
You want to hear a girl lose her shit about a cultural institution? Hold my drink. Marvelous! Remarkable! Bewildering! Ok, a tiny investment has to be made, but never lose the price-quality ratio out of sight in this case. In this extraordinary hangout overlooking the fancy Puerto Madero harbor you will make all your artistic desires come true. I name a Van Gogh, a Chagall and a Brueghel to begin with. From landscapes to modern art parodies and the Argentinean artistic crème de la crème like Pueyrredon, Badii and Xul Solar… this museum has it all. Let me tell you something: even the building is worth a visit! Yes, yes, YES, this is it! Why are you still sitting there?
Conventillo de Marjan Grum, Museo
Garibaldi 1429e (Caminito), La Boca.
Opening times (per 2017): When the restaurant is open, you can enter. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free.
To speak of a museum might be slightly exaggerated. It’s a small space that used to be one of the rooms in La Boca’s famous brothel street, painted in the bright typical colors that would indicate a quite successful prostitute (as some clients couldn’t pay and therefore painted the whore’s houses instead). Now it’s devoted as a tiny exhibition space for sculptor Marjan Grum. I honestly wouldn’t claim her to be a prominent artist of our time, but if you have some minutes to spare during your visit of the La Boca neighborhood, it’s worth to have a quick look for a nice view over the iconic Caminito and to sniff up the vibe of foregone times.
Garibaldi 1429e (Caminito), La Boca.
Opening times (per 2017): When the restaurant is open, you can enter. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free.
To speak of a museum might be slightly exaggerated. It’s a small space that used to be one of the rooms in La Boca’s famous brothel street, painted in the bright typical colors that would indicate a quite successful prostitute (as some clients couldn’t pay and therefore painted the whore’s houses instead). Now it’s devoted as a tiny exhibition space for sculptor Marjan Grum. I honestly wouldn’t claim her to be a prominent artist of our time, but if you have some minutes to spare during your visit of the La Boca neighborhood, it’s worth to have a quick look for a nice view over the iconic Caminito and to sniff up the vibe of foregone times.
Ciudad, Museo de la
Defensa 219/223, Monserrat.
Opening times (per 2017): Mon-Sun 10:00-19:00. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $5. Free days: Mon & Wed.
Ha, a museum that’s open and even free on Monday! Prepare for the Steph! Well too bad: I exactly arrived in between exhibitions and everything was shut off for the public. Nevertheless, I was shown an essential trait of the city of Buenos Aires: its friendly citizens (some people, especially Chileans and Brazilians, might dispute that). Where else would the supervisor invite you for a private tour through the library and art collection that has never been open to the public even? Well, in any other country where they adore women as much as here perhaps. My rating: 5/5.
Defensa 219/223, Monserrat.
Opening times (per 2017): Mon-Sun 10:00-19:00. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $5. Free days: Mon & Wed.
Ha, a museum that’s open and even free on Monday! Prepare for the Steph! Well too bad: I exactly arrived in between exhibitions and everything was shut off for the public. Nevertheless, I was shown an essential trait of the city of Buenos Aires: its friendly citizens (some people, especially Chileans and Brazilians, might dispute that). Where else would the supervisor invite you for a private tour through the library and art collection that has never been open to the public even? Well, in any other country where they adore women as much as here perhaps. My rating: 5/5.
Colón, Teatro
Cerrito 628, Montserrat.
Guided tours (per 2017): Mon-Sun 9:00-17:00. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Depending on show, guided tours $250 for foreigners (student discounts apply).
Not particularly a museum, but a must for any fanatic of the fine arts. A lust for the eye, the ear and all the senses. Of course, you can pay for an overpriced tourist-tour, but why won’t you enter for free during one of the costless performances they stage each month? Google ‘teatro colon entradas gratuitos’ (yeah, you’ll have to speak a bit of Spanish for the free stuff) or search on the Spanish website for ‘Interprétes Argentinos’. Your free tickets have to be personally picked up at the box office inside the theatre.
Cerrito 628, Montserrat.
Guided tours (per 2017): Mon-Sun 9:00-17:00. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Depending on show, guided tours $250 for foreigners (student discounts apply).
Not particularly a museum, but a must for any fanatic of the fine arts. A lust for the eye, the ear and all the senses. Of course, you can pay for an overpriced tourist-tour, but why won’t you enter for free during one of the costless performances they stage each month? Google ‘teatro colon entradas gratuitos’ (yeah, you’ll have to speak a bit of Spanish for the free stuff) or search on the Spanish website for ‘Interprétes Argentinos’. Your free tickets have to be personally picked up at the box office inside the theatre.
Etnográfico, Museo Juan B. Ambrosetti
Moreno 350, Montserrat.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Fri 13:00-19:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free.
Twice I tried to enter this museum, but Mondays seemed to be a no-go (as is usually the case in BA, I found out later). However, it was worth coming back for, so it seemed. I’m not the typical djembe-rumbling, indigenous-wide-pants-wearing white lady, but it is interesting to go back to the primitive every now and then, if only when it comes to learning. The great thing about this museum, at least for foreigners, it that it has very extensive English exhibition guides, so you actually understand what you’re looking at… which will be Bolivian dancing dresses, artifacts from Oceania, tools from the indigenous hunter-gather societies in North-West Argentina and a whole lot of Inca-stuff, including Ikea-versions of lama’s. I got lost for over an hour in this friendly learning space and ended up tipping more than the entrance price would have been if there was one. Oh, and they have free courses too! If you always wanted to create your own African mask or dance like the Indians, check out their website for the calendar.
Moreno 350, Montserrat.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Fri 13:00-19:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free.
Twice I tried to enter this museum, but Mondays seemed to be a no-go (as is usually the case in BA, I found out later). However, it was worth coming back for, so it seemed. I’m not the typical djembe-rumbling, indigenous-wide-pants-wearing white lady, but it is interesting to go back to the primitive every now and then, if only when it comes to learning. The great thing about this museum, at least for foreigners, it that it has very extensive English exhibition guides, so you actually understand what you’re looking at… which will be Bolivian dancing dresses, artifacts from Oceania, tools from the indigenous hunter-gather societies in North-West Argentina and a whole lot of Inca-stuff, including Ikea-versions of lama’s. I got lost for over an hour in this friendly learning space and ended up tipping more than the entrance price would have been if there was one. Oh, and they have free courses too! If you always wanted to create your own African mask or dance like the Indians, check out their website for the calendar.
Evita, Museo
Lafinur 2988, Palermo.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Sun: 11:00-19:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $90. Students: $35. Mon: $40 & students free.
If you think Buenos Aires, you think Evita. So of course, if even Anne Frank has a museum here, why shouldn’t have this Argentinean icon have one? To complete the experience, tango music decorates your welcome, introducing you to the life of a legend and her historic moments. The Lady Di of Latin America takes you on a journey along her many faces as a social rights activist, fashionista, feminist and president’s wife. Unlike most museums in this country, all signs include an English description as it’s mainly tourists who hold an interest in this royal lady. A must during every visit to the capital, however short.
Lafinur 2988, Palermo.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Sun: 11:00-19:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $90. Students: $35. Mon: $40 & students free.
If you think Buenos Aires, you think Evita. So of course, if even Anne Frank has a museum here, why shouldn’t have this Argentinean icon have one? To complete the experience, tango music decorates your welcome, introducing you to the life of a legend and her historic moments. The Lady Di of Latin America takes you on a journey along her many faces as a social rights activist, fashionista, feminist and president’s wife. Unlike most museums in this country, all signs include an English description as it’s mainly tourists who hold an interest in this royal lady. A must during every visit to the capital, however short.
Faena Arts Centre
Aimé Painé 1169, Puerto Madero.
Opening times: Continuously varying, only open during specific exhibitions and events: Double-check the website!
Entrance: Depending on the event.
In search for this prominent art centre I first stumbled upon the luxurious Faena hotel. After inquiring the bellboy I learned the Faena Arts Centre is only open during organized events. The bellboy was right. Once I arrived at the arts centre to for some reason verify this information it was indeed closed until further notice. I returned one more time, but without luck. So with tickets only I guess!
Aimé Painé 1169, Puerto Madero.
Opening times: Continuously varying, only open during specific exhibitions and events: Double-check the website!
Entrance: Depending on the event.
In search for this prominent art centre I first stumbled upon the luxurious Faena hotel. After inquiring the bellboy I learned the Faena Arts Centre is only open during organized events. The bellboy was right. Once I arrived at the arts centre to for some reason verify this information it was indeed closed until further notice. I returned one more time, but without luck. So with tickets only I guess!
FOLA, Fototeca Latino América
Godoy Cruz 2620/2626, Palermo.
Opening times (per 2017): Mon-Tue, Thu-Sun: 12:00-20:00. Closed: Wed. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $80. Students: $40. Mon: $40 & students free.
Hipster-certified and cultivated, this is a place where you want to be seen. Or rather, where you go to see. From black and white photos questioning and challenging the duality in life, the plot of reflections and visual poetry… FOLA caresses your senses both optically and intellectually. Sign up for a 45-minute journey through the edges of your own mind, made possible by a wide variety of talented local and global artists exhibited in the heart of Palermo.
Godoy Cruz 2620/2626, Palermo.
Opening times (per 2017): Mon-Tue, Thu-Sun: 12:00-20:00. Closed: Wed. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $80. Students: $40. Mon: $40 & students free.
Hipster-certified and cultivated, this is a place where you want to be seen. Or rather, where you go to see. From black and white photos questioning and challenging the duality in life, the plot of reflections and visual poetry… FOLA caresses your senses both optically and intellectually. Sign up for a 45-minute journey through the edges of your own mind, made possible by a wide variety of talented local and global artists exhibited in the heart of Palermo.
Fundación Proa
Avenida Mendoza 1929, La Boca.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Sun: 11:00-19:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $50. Students: $30.
If you’re in La Boca and have only the time to visit one museum, make sure it’s this one. Enter this impressive building for an excellent collection of local historical information in word and image. Only the interior is already worth going. High-quality photographs alternate with old exclusive film material and sublime artwork of painters who found their roots in this iconic neighborhood. One sidenote: It could be a bit bigger considering the entrance price… or let’s reformulate myself: If all museums in the tiny touristy part of La Boca would be merged into one big collection fitted in this building, I would really have nothing left to whine about.
Avenida Mendoza 1929, La Boca.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Sun: 11:00-19:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $50. Students: $30.
If you’re in La Boca and have only the time to visit one museum, make sure it’s this one. Enter this impressive building for an excellent collection of local historical information in word and image. Only the interior is already worth going. High-quality photographs alternate with old exclusive film material and sublime artwork of painters who found their roots in this iconic neighborhood. One sidenote: It could be a bit bigger considering the entrance price… or let’s reformulate myself: If all museums in the tiny touristy part of La Boca would be merged into one big collection fitted in this building, I would really have nothing left to whine about.
Humor, Museo del
Avenida de los Italianos 851, Puerto Madero.
Opening times (per 2017): Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00 / Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $10. Free days: Mon, Tue & Wed.
Of course you will only understand the funny jokes that are awaiting you if you speak Spanish and know something of the Argentinean political history. If you don’t, you have no reason to go here. If you do, you will be rewarded with an all right museum full of comic book fragments exhibited through the entire building. Kids can take a picture with statues of comic strip heroes and the place even hosts its very own micro-cinema (of which you can’t see anything as no one thought of shading off the daylight coming in, but the idea is lovely). With a bit of luck you run into the over-excited security guard who keeps on following you until you allow him to take some tourist-snapshots of you with the museum... a task he takes on him with such dedication it quickly leads to an entire fashion photoshoot in which he urges you to bend and kneel in front of flower pots and painted walls. This sounds kind of creepy actually.
Avenida de los Italianos 851, Puerto Madero.
Opening times (per 2017): Mon-Fri 11:00-18:00 / Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $10. Free days: Mon, Tue & Wed.
Of course you will only understand the funny jokes that are awaiting you if you speak Spanish and know something of the Argentinean political history. If you don’t, you have no reason to go here. If you do, you will be rewarded with an all right museum full of comic book fragments exhibited through the entire building. Kids can take a picture with statues of comic strip heroes and the place even hosts its very own micro-cinema (of which you can’t see anything as no one thought of shading off the daylight coming in, but the idea is lovely). With a bit of luck you run into the over-excited security guard who keeps on following you until you allow him to take some tourist-snapshots of you with the museum... a task he takes on him with such dedication it quickly leads to an entire fashion photoshoot in which he urges you to bend and kneel in front of flower pots and painted walls. This sounds kind of creepy actually.
Inmigración, Museo de la (MUNTREF) & Centro de Arte Contemporaneo
Avenida Antártida Argentina 1355, Retiro (next to harbor Buquebus).
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free. Free tours: Sat & Sun 14:00 & 16:00.
Another one on this list: Museum of Immigration, why not? I walked to the logical location, the harbor where most immigrants entered Argentina, and set foot in this intriguing-looking building for free. What I found inside was a very well-done museum with extensive information (in Spanish), video installations and interactive displays. It takes you for a walk through the history of transmigration and resettlement with the influx from mainly Europe and South America after the country’s independence (so no colonial talks here). As an extra bonus: this exposition shares a building with Centro de Arte Contemporaneo which you can also admire for free. During my visit there was a very intriguing exhibit of the really dark, kind of creepy expressionist artwork of the Spanish Bernardí Roig… which I needless to say loved with all my heart. If you’re in Retiro or have some time to kill waiting on your ferry to Uruguay, do yourself a favor and visit this museum.
* Check their website for an overview of their free courses and workshops.
Avenida Antártida Argentina 1355, Retiro (next to harbor Buquebus).
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free. Free tours: Sat & Sun 14:00 & 16:00.
Another one on this list: Museum of Immigration, why not? I walked to the logical location, the harbor where most immigrants entered Argentina, and set foot in this intriguing-looking building for free. What I found inside was a very well-done museum with extensive information (in Spanish), video installations and interactive displays. It takes you for a walk through the history of transmigration and resettlement with the influx from mainly Europe and South America after the country’s independence (so no colonial talks here). As an extra bonus: this exposition shares a building with Centro de Arte Contemporaneo which you can also admire for free. During my visit there was a very intriguing exhibit of the really dark, kind of creepy expressionist artwork of the Spanish Bernardí Roig… which I needless to say loved with all my heart. If you’re in Retiro or have some time to kill waiting on your ferry to Uruguay, do yourself a favor and visit this museum.
* Check their website for an overview of their free courses and workshops.
Larreta, Museo de Arte Español Enrique
Juramento 2291, Belgrano.
Opening times (per 2017): Mon-Fri 13:00-19:00 / Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $10. Free days: Thu. Free tours: Mon-Fri 14:00 / Sat-Sun 16:00 & 18:00.
Even though it wasn’t a Thursday, they didn’t have change for my $100-bill so I was allowed to enter without charge. And from then on it only got better. It’s a house of a famous Argentinean, again, but what a house it is! I felt like I accidentally walked onto a Game of Thrones filmset. This kind of wooden medieval-looking mansion with its shiny axes and harnesses and brown-golden paintings of the Flemish school flawlessly takes you back in time. Oh, and Larreta was a wealthy writer, if that makes any difference. It’s a small but worthwhile museum.
The museum hosts a library and offers cultural events and mostly free courses. To follow a wide variety of painting and acting courses, calligraphic, textile stamping or to join their lecture club, check out their website.
Juramento 2291, Belgrano.
Opening times (per 2017): Mon-Fri 13:00-19:00 / Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $10. Free days: Thu. Free tours: Mon-Fri 14:00 / Sat-Sun 16:00 & 18:00.
Even though it wasn’t a Thursday, they didn’t have change for my $100-bill so I was allowed to enter without charge. And from then on it only got better. It’s a house of a famous Argentinean, again, but what a house it is! I felt like I accidentally walked onto a Game of Thrones filmset. This kind of wooden medieval-looking mansion with its shiny axes and harnesses and brown-golden paintings of the Flemish school flawlessly takes you back in time. Oh, and Larreta was a wealthy writer, if that makes any difference. It’s a small but worthwhile museum.
The museum hosts a library and offers cultural events and mostly free courses. To follow a wide variety of painting and acting courses, calligraphic, textile stamping or to join their lecture club, check out their website.
MACBA (Museo de Arte Contemporáneo Buenos Aires)
Avenida San Juan 328, San Telmo.
Opening times (per 2016): Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00 / Sat-Sun 11:00-19:30. Closed: Tue. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $60. Students: $40. Wed: $40 & students free.
For Argentinean standards the entrance price of the MACBA is quite high, especially if you take into account that most museums receive strong government aid. This must be something special then, I assumed. It's not. This museum exists of 3 floors with each a small exhibition space. I remember enjoying only 1 of them, ridiculing bullfighting. Within half an hour I was outside again... without money to buy lunch.
Avenida San Juan 328, San Telmo.
Opening times (per 2016): Mon-Fri 11:00-19:00 / Sat-Sun 11:00-19:30. Closed: Tue. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $60. Students: $40. Wed: $40 & students free.
For Argentinean standards the entrance price of the MACBA is quite high, especially if you take into account that most museums receive strong government aid. This must be something special then, I assumed. It's not. This museum exists of 3 floors with each a small exhibition space. I remember enjoying only 1 of them, ridiculing bullfighting. Within half an hour I was outside again... without money to buy lunch.
MALBA (Museo de Arte Latinoamericano de Buenos Aires)
Avenida Figuera Alcorta 3415, Recoleta / Palermo.
Opening times (per 2017): Thu-Mon 12:00-20:00 / Wed 12:00-21:00 Closed: Tue. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $90. Wed: $45.
The first time I visited MALBA was on the first day I visited Buenos Aires and Latin America as a whole (2014). There was an exposition about light and optical illusion, which complemented the permanent collection. I was delighted. The second time I visited MALBA, in 2016, I was excited and full of expectations fueled by my previous positive experience. I was disappointed. There were no exhibitions going on, the top floor was closed even. I witnessed the same permanent collection without noticing any interesting additions. I wondered even what interested me so much the first time... Besides 1 painting of Diego Rivera and 1 of his wife Frida Kahlo, who are Mexican, nothing really stood out. Which is a shame, as in the meantime I visited many other Argentinean art museums all over the country and can confirm Argentina has much to be proud of when it comes to art and talented painters. Even though I paid more here than for every other museum in Buenos Aires, I was out again in 25 minutes.
Not sure what you should do with this review, it’s not much of an advice, is it? Well, if you consider yourself a hipster, for sure: GO! You’ll feel right at home in this place where all youngsters try to be ‘different’ in the exact same way. They also have a rather cheap art-house cinema, might be worth a try.
Avenida Figuera Alcorta 3415, Recoleta / Palermo.
Opening times (per 2017): Thu-Mon 12:00-20:00 / Wed 12:00-21:00 Closed: Tue. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $90. Wed: $45.
The first time I visited MALBA was on the first day I visited Buenos Aires and Latin America as a whole (2014). There was an exposition about light and optical illusion, which complemented the permanent collection. I was delighted. The second time I visited MALBA, in 2016, I was excited and full of expectations fueled by my previous positive experience. I was disappointed. There were no exhibitions going on, the top floor was closed even. I witnessed the same permanent collection without noticing any interesting additions. I wondered even what interested me so much the first time... Besides 1 painting of Diego Rivera and 1 of his wife Frida Kahlo, who are Mexican, nothing really stood out. Which is a shame, as in the meantime I visited many other Argentinean art museums all over the country and can confirm Argentina has much to be proud of when it comes to art and talented painters. Even though I paid more here than for every other museum in Buenos Aires, I was out again in 25 minutes.
Not sure what you should do with this review, it’s not much of an advice, is it? Well, if you consider yourself a hipster, for sure: GO! You’ll feel right at home in this place where all youngsters try to be ‘different’ in the exact same way. They also have a rather cheap art-house cinema, might be worth a try.
MAMBA (Museo de Arte Moderno de Buenos Aires)
Avenida San Juan 350, San Telmo.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Fri 11:00-19:00 / Sat-Sun 11:00-20:00 Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $20. Free day: Tue.
So... you don't only have a MALBA and a MACBA, you can also have some fun in the MAMBA. The 'M' referring to Moderno, modern art. Zero points for name-originality. Last in alphabet, but the best of all. Upon entering this rather surrealistic building you infiltrate a magical world full of unearthly sounds, visions and shapes. Creatures crawl out of paintings and unusual color combinations take you on a free mushroom trip. It's an utterly confusing but exhilarating journey into the mind. I enjoyed every single second I spent in this establishment, every work of art being a mind-blowing journey.
Avenida San Juan 350, San Telmo.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Fri 11:00-19:00 / Sat-Sun 11:00-20:00 Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $20. Free day: Tue.
So... you don't only have a MALBA and a MACBA, you can also have some fun in the MAMBA. The 'M' referring to Moderno, modern art. Zero points for name-originality. Last in alphabet, but the best of all. Upon entering this rather surrealistic building you infiltrate a magical world full of unearthly sounds, visions and shapes. Creatures crawl out of paintings and unusual color combinations take you on a free mushroom trip. It's an utterly confusing but exhilarating journey into the mind. I enjoyed every single second I spent in this establishment, every work of art being a mind-blowing journey.
Manzana de las Luces
Perú 272 (1064), Monserrat.
Opening times (per 2016): Mon-Fri 12:00-20:00 / Sat-Sun 15:00-21:00. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free. Tours (Spanish only): $50, Mon-Fri 15:00 / Sat-Sun 15:00, 16:30, 18:00.
“Manzana de las luces”, apple of the lights? Nah-ah Steph, like every single word in this d#5%!!... lovely language ‘manzana’ has 1001 different meanings. In this case it means as much as the ‘illuminated block’. Sounds promising. I just hope it’s not... Oh yes, yes it is! Jesus all over the place! You just got Jesufied! Ok... The Society of Jesus arrived in the BA in 1608, just after its foundation. A few decades later they had their mission rolling on a giant many-acres lot which also included Plaza de Mayo. In 1767 the suppression of the Society of Jesus led to the mission’s closure, if only temporary, after which the site served a great amount of other purposes... among others the headquarter of the Regiment of Patricians during the Argentine War of Independence, where the regiment staged a failed munity against their commander General Belgrano. A network of five tunnels intersecting under the former mission helped safeguard ammunitions during this war. Those can still be admired today, but only if you pay for a Spanish-only tour... Which I would only recommend to native speakers. After 1,5 year of kind-of-practicing Spanish I can say I’m at the average-maybe-even-advanced level... But the speed and mumbling in which this tour was given made me sneak out (behind a curtain) after 10 mere minutes. What’s left to admire is a building. Just bricks, basically. And a very kind security guard. However, they host a wide range of courses and workshops which are FREE to attend (theatre, tango, art-house movies etc.). Walk in to get your monthly program.
Perú 272 (1064), Monserrat.
Opening times (per 2016): Mon-Fri 12:00-20:00 / Sat-Sun 15:00-21:00. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free. Tours (Spanish only): $50, Mon-Fri 15:00 / Sat-Sun 15:00, 16:30, 18:00.
“Manzana de las luces”, apple of the lights? Nah-ah Steph, like every single word in this d#5%!!... lovely language ‘manzana’ has 1001 different meanings. In this case it means as much as the ‘illuminated block’. Sounds promising. I just hope it’s not... Oh yes, yes it is! Jesus all over the place! You just got Jesufied! Ok... The Society of Jesus arrived in the BA in 1608, just after its foundation. A few decades later they had their mission rolling on a giant many-acres lot which also included Plaza de Mayo. In 1767 the suppression of the Society of Jesus led to the mission’s closure, if only temporary, after which the site served a great amount of other purposes... among others the headquarter of the Regiment of Patricians during the Argentine War of Independence, where the regiment staged a failed munity against their commander General Belgrano. A network of five tunnels intersecting under the former mission helped safeguard ammunitions during this war. Those can still be admired today, but only if you pay for a Spanish-only tour... Which I would only recommend to native speakers. After 1,5 year of kind-of-practicing Spanish I can say I’m at the average-maybe-even-advanced level... But the speed and mumbling in which this tour was given made me sneak out (behind a curtain) after 10 mere minutes. What’s left to admire is a building. Just bricks, basically. And a very kind security guard. However, they host a wide range of courses and workshops which are FREE to attend (theatre, tango, art-house movies etc.). Walk in to get your monthly program.
Palacio de Gobierno
Bolivar 1 & Avenida de Mayo 525, Monserrat.
Opening times (per 2017): Sat: 16:00 & 17:00 / Sun 11:00-17:00. Closed: Mon-Fri. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free. Entrance with (free) guided tours only.
The Buenos Aires City Hall, or in fancy Castellano ‘Palacio de Gobierno’ is a distinguished building on Plaza de Mayo that I passed by often enough to wonder what’s in there. Good for me: apparently there were free guided tours held in the weekend. So 1 Sunday I traveled down there to see if they could enlighten me. They couldn’t, the place was closed. When I asked someone from the Casa de la Cultura next door (tip: there they also do free tours there!), they told me it doesn’t always mean something in Argentina when information is written down and published. Fair enough.
I came back several times to find it, again, closed for public.
Bolivar 1 & Avenida de Mayo 525, Monserrat.
Opening times (per 2017): Sat: 16:00 & 17:00 / Sun 11:00-17:00. Closed: Mon-Fri. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free. Entrance with (free) guided tours only.
The Buenos Aires City Hall, or in fancy Castellano ‘Palacio de Gobierno’ is a distinguished building on Plaza de Mayo that I passed by often enough to wonder what’s in there. Good for me: apparently there were free guided tours held in the weekend. So 1 Sunday I traveled down there to see if they could enlighten me. They couldn’t, the place was closed. When I asked someone from the Casa de la Cultura next door (tip: there they also do free tours there!), they told me it doesn’t always mean something in Argentina when information is written down and published. Fair enough.
I came back several times to find it, again, closed for public.
Palais de Glace
Posadas 1725 / Avenida del Libertador 1248, Recoleta.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free.
I passed by on a Saturday and found the place to be closed, even though the sign said it shouldn’t be. I returned 6 times more after that, to find it closed on all different occasions.
Posadas 1725 / Avenida del Libertador 1248, Recoleta.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Sun 12:00-20:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free.
I passed by on a Saturday and found the place to be closed, even though the sign said it shouldn’t be. I returned 6 times more after that, to find it closed on all different occasions.
Recoleta, Centro Cultural
Junín 1930, Recoleta.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Fri 13:30-20:30 / Sat-Sun 11:30-20:30. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free.
I have been to this cultural center on several occasions. The first and second time was to visit Fuerza Bruta, a Cirque-du-Soleil-kind-of-spectacle that is a must-watch for everyone setting foot in this beautiful capital. The following times were to escort visiting friends to this show, while I took my time absorbing the hustle and bustle of the handicraft market surrounding it, full of free music and street performances. One time I read about an exposition taking place... Aha, they do art too? Yes they do, and it is splendid. While trying to find the exposition (which turned out to be shit), I got lost in a labyrinth full of contemporary artworks and installations. Behind every corner a surprise was luring. This visit made my day. Check their website for a full program on activities, classes and courses (visual arts, bonsai painting, urban gardening, robot building, graffiti art... sounds promising!).
Junín 1930, Recoleta.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Fri 13:30-20:30 / Sat-Sun 11:30-20:30. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free.
I have been to this cultural center on several occasions. The first and second time was to visit Fuerza Bruta, a Cirque-du-Soleil-kind-of-spectacle that is a must-watch for everyone setting foot in this beautiful capital. The following times were to escort visiting friends to this show, while I took my time absorbing the hustle and bustle of the handicraft market surrounding it, full of free music and street performances. One time I read about an exposition taking place... Aha, they do art too? Yes they do, and it is splendid. While trying to find the exposition (which turned out to be shit), I got lost in a labyrinth full of contemporary artworks and installations. Behind every corner a surprise was luring. This visit made my day. Check their website for a full program on activities, classes and courses (visual arts, bonsai painting, urban gardening, robot building, graffiti art... sounds promising!).
Rojas, Museo Casa De Ricardo
Charcas 2837, Recoleta.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Sat 11:00-19:00. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $20. Students: free. Free day: Wed.
Another casa from another Argentino. A thinker and writer this time. Good, I like both thinking and writing. This house doesn’t really add to that though, it just shows the place where the thinking and writing was done. A beautiful house it is, but well, it’s a house. From the Spanish displays I understood he spent some time in Bretagne, on the exact spot where I once spent 3 months of a summer working at the French coast. He also was big buddies with Ruben Darío... of whom I also saw the house, in Nicaragua. I have such an exciting life.
Charcas 2837, Recoleta.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Sat 11:00-19:00. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $20. Students: free. Free day: Wed.
Another casa from another Argentino. A thinker and writer this time. Good, I like both thinking and writing. This house doesn’t really add to that though, it just shows the place where the thinking and writing was done. A beautiful house it is, but well, it’s a house. From the Spanish displays I understood he spent some time in Bretagne, on the exact spot where I once spent 3 months of a summer working at the French coast. He also was big buddies with Ruben Darío... of whom I also saw the house, in Nicaragua. I have such an exciting life.
Saavedra, Museo Histórico de Buenos Aires Cornelio de
Crisólogo Larralde 6309, Saavedra.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Fri 9:00-16:00 / Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $5. Free days: Wed & Fri.
At my moment of visit I lived a mere 2 weeks in Argentina’s capital. As I also live in the Saavedra area I thought I might invite myself to a laidback afternoon stroll to my neighborhood’s museum. As I didn’t know yet that Buenos Aires is about as big as my entire country and every ‘barrio’ is like a city in itself, this became more of a sweaty afternoon hike. “This better be worth it”, I breezed to no one in particular. And, was it? Weeeeeell... it off course depends on what you are looking for in a museum, but basically the general answer remains a ‘no’. I apparently arrived 10 minutes before closing time and the sad part is that that was enough time to see it all. And what then did I see exactly? Antique furniture, some old coins and guns, ancient jewelry and some old maps. I must say I was amused by the old posters encouraging the local population to kill both the conquerors and the English. But to say you should travel all the way to the Saavedra area to pay this gem of a museum a visit: Nope. “You’re being unfair, for us this is an important place conserving all crucial parts of our history”, my Argentinean counterpart exclaimed after this conclusion. Has he ever visited this museum in the 28 years he lived here? The answer is no, which says enough.
Check the website to learn more about the free courses and projects this museum offers.
Crisólogo Larralde 6309, Saavedra.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Fri 9:00-16:00 / Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $5. Free days: Wed & Fri.
At my moment of visit I lived a mere 2 weeks in Argentina’s capital. As I also live in the Saavedra area I thought I might invite myself to a laidback afternoon stroll to my neighborhood’s museum. As I didn’t know yet that Buenos Aires is about as big as my entire country and every ‘barrio’ is like a city in itself, this became more of a sweaty afternoon hike. “This better be worth it”, I breezed to no one in particular. And, was it? Weeeeeell... it off course depends on what you are looking for in a museum, but basically the general answer remains a ‘no’. I apparently arrived 10 minutes before closing time and the sad part is that that was enough time to see it all. And what then did I see exactly? Antique furniture, some old coins and guns, ancient jewelry and some old maps. I must say I was amused by the old posters encouraging the local population to kill both the conquerors and the English. But to say you should travel all the way to the Saavedra area to pay this gem of a museum a visit: Nope. “You’re being unfair, for us this is an important place conserving all crucial parts of our history”, my Argentinean counterpart exclaimed after this conclusion. Has he ever visited this museum in the 28 years he lived here? The answer is no, which says enough.
Check the website to learn more about the free courses and projects this museum offers.
Sarmiento, Museo Histórico
Juramento 2180, Belgrano.
Opening times (per 2017): Mon-Fri 13:00-18:00 / Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00. Closed: Sat & Sun. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free.
Any Argentinean that did something of importance will be rewarded with its own museum. So also Domingo Faustino Sarmiento. Honestly I never heard about the man before setting foot in this museum, but that was soon about to change. Besides being the seventh president of Argentina, he was also an intellectual, writer, statesman, atheist and activist. And that’s where it gets interesting. Opposed to the strong steak-as-big-as-your-face-culture, this Argentine came up for animal rights. He even founded the ‘Sociedad Protectora de Animales de Buenos Aires’ accompanied by a national law: ‘Ley Nacional de Protección de Animales’, also called ‘Ley Sarmiento’. Besides that, he made himself strong for education and freedom of speech and supported theater- and opera groups, publishing houses and museums. He admitted to get most of these valuable insights from his many travels all over the world (some related to his exiles), which makes me like the guy even more. Nevertheless, the Argentineans didn’t, as his decisions in several wars and his acceptance of European immigration weren’t appreciated back then (well without immigration they wouldn’t be able to brag about ‘their’ Carlos Gardel... the French Charles Gardes). He had to die to be honored. A museum not to be missed! If you don’t speak Spanish, bring your dictionary or Wikipedia print-outs.
Museo Sarmiento host many events and (free!) courses. Shoe designing, fire arts, debating, singing, photography, manga- or regular painting, English, furniture restoration, optical game creating, carpeting, mosaic-making, theatre, book binding, book conservation, guitar classes, weaving, cognitive stimulation... what else do you need to learn? Check their website for current schedules.
Juramento 2180, Belgrano.
Opening times (per 2017): Mon-Fri 13:00-18:00 / Sat-Sun 10:00-20:00. Closed: Sat & Sun. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free.
Any Argentinean that did something of importance will be rewarded with its own museum. So also Domingo Faustino Sarmiento. Honestly I never heard about the man before setting foot in this museum, but that was soon about to change. Besides being the seventh president of Argentina, he was also an intellectual, writer, statesman, atheist and activist. And that’s where it gets interesting. Opposed to the strong steak-as-big-as-your-face-culture, this Argentine came up for animal rights. He even founded the ‘Sociedad Protectora de Animales de Buenos Aires’ accompanied by a national law: ‘Ley Nacional de Protección de Animales’, also called ‘Ley Sarmiento’. Besides that, he made himself strong for education and freedom of speech and supported theater- and opera groups, publishing houses and museums. He admitted to get most of these valuable insights from his many travels all over the world (some related to his exiles), which makes me like the guy even more. Nevertheless, the Argentineans didn’t, as his decisions in several wars and his acceptance of European immigration weren’t appreciated back then (well without immigration they wouldn’t be able to brag about ‘their’ Carlos Gardel... the French Charles Gardes). He had to die to be honored. A museum not to be missed! If you don’t speak Spanish, bring your dictionary or Wikipedia print-outs.
Museo Sarmiento host many events and (free!) courses. Shoe designing, fire arts, debating, singing, photography, manga- or regular painting, English, furniture restoration, optical game creating, carpeting, mosaic-making, theatre, book binding, book conservation, guitar classes, weaving, cognitive stimulation... what else do you need to learn? Check their website for current schedules.
Sívori, Museo de Artes Plásticas Eduardo
Avenida Infanta Isabel 555, Palermo.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Fri 12:00-19:00 / Sat-Sun 10:00-19:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $10. Free days: Wed & Fri.
The 59th Salón Manuel Belgrano was on, I read in the ‘Agenda Cultural ‘, Buenos Aires’ free cultural newspaper. I had no idea what the Salón Manuel Belgrano was, but I felt this was a chance I needed to take. Marketing done well. I grabbed my partner by the scruff of his neck and dragged him along for some cultural exploration at Museo Sívori, where the event was held. I must say, I wasn’t disappointed. Artists from all over the country had sent in their creative expressions and that provided a lovely melting pot of aesthetic jewels dotted with some other weirdness. On top of that, this was a great opportunity to see the museum’s own collection, which in itself is worth a visit.
Avenida Infanta Isabel 555, Palermo.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Fri 12:00-19:00 / Sat-Sun 10:00-19:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $10. Free days: Wed & Fri.
The 59th Salón Manuel Belgrano was on, I read in the ‘Agenda Cultural ‘, Buenos Aires’ free cultural newspaper. I had no idea what the Salón Manuel Belgrano was, but I felt this was a chance I needed to take. Marketing done well. I grabbed my partner by the scruff of his neck and dragged him along for some cultural exploration at Museo Sívori, where the event was held. I must say, I wasn’t disappointed. Artists from all over the country had sent in their creative expressions and that provided a lovely melting pot of aesthetic jewels dotted with some other weirdness. On top of that, this was a great opportunity to see the museum’s own collection, which in itself is worth a visit.
Traje, Museo Nacional de la Historia del
Chile 832, San Telmo.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Sun 15:00-19:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free. Free guided tours: Sat & Sun 17:00.
The first time I tried to visit this museum it was on a Monday, upon which I found a closed door without any clues when to return. So I returned several times until at one point I could admire what Argentineans call fashion. Ok, it’s no Paris or Milan (although porteños could basically be considered Italians), but this museum does give a good insight in social history.
Chile 832, San Telmo.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Sun 15:00-19:00. Closed: Mon. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free. Free guided tours: Sat & Sun 17:00.
The first time I tried to visit this museum it was on a Monday, upon which I found a closed door without any clues when to return. So I returned several times until at one point I could admire what Argentineans call fashion. Ok, it’s no Paris or Milan (although porteños could basically be considered Italians), but this museum does give a good insight in social history.
Usina del Arte
Agustín Caffarena 1, La Boca.
Opening times (per 2017): Related to scheduled events. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free. Free guided tours: Sat & Sun 14:00 & 17:00.
Besides a thrilling exhibition space filled to the brim with cutting-edge art, Usina del Arte is more of an everything-goes-zone. There are a theatre, several auditoria, photography and visual art exposition spaces, a restaurant, course- and education sections and the building and surrounding area is big enough to host a festival. In my case I visited during the yearly International Tango Festival, a must for every fanatic from beginner to pro. A Mecca for every fanatic of the visual arts.
Agustín Caffarena 1, La Boca.
Opening times (per 2017): Related to scheduled events. Double-check the website!
Entrance: Free. Free guided tours: Sat & Sun 14:00 & 17:00.
Besides a thrilling exhibition space filled to the brim with cutting-edge art, Usina del Arte is more of an everything-goes-zone. There are a theatre, several auditoria, photography and visual art exposition spaces, a restaurant, course- and education sections and the building and surrounding area is big enough to host a festival. In my case I visited during the yearly International Tango Festival, a must for every fanatic from beginner to pro. A Mecca for every fanatic of the visual arts.
Xul Solar, Museo
Laprida 1212, Recoleta.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Fri 12:00-20:00 / Sat 12:00-19:00. Closed: Mon & Sun. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $30 (student discounts apply). Guided tours: Tue & Thu 16:00, Sat 15:30.
Ouch, 30 pesos! $US 2 is a price to laugh away, but Argentina kind of spoilt me with its excellent collection of museums with zero entrance to pay. This privately owned museum, completely dedicated to the Argentine painter Xul Solar (Oscar Augustín Alejandro Schulz Solari), was set up by his wife. All work was selected by the master himself. Art is personal, both for the painter and the viewer. In my personal case it meant that I wasn’t particularly intrigued by the pale rainbow colors rendering modern, highly symbolic and spiritual scenes that all looked very similar to me. This jack-of-all-trades is also a philologist, inventor and astrologer, and especially that last occupation strongly comes back into his work. I did my best to stand still at every artwork to get to the core of its intentions, but it never really got me.
Laprida 1212, Recoleta.
Opening times (per 2017): Tue-Fri 12:00-20:00 / Sat 12:00-19:00. Closed: Mon & Sun. Double-check the website!
Entrance: $30 (student discounts apply). Guided tours: Tue & Thu 16:00, Sat 15:30.
Ouch, 30 pesos! $US 2 is a price to laugh away, but Argentina kind of spoilt me with its excellent collection of museums with zero entrance to pay. This privately owned museum, completely dedicated to the Argentine painter Xul Solar (Oscar Augustín Alejandro Schulz Solari), was set up by his wife. All work was selected by the master himself. Art is personal, both for the painter and the viewer. In my personal case it meant that I wasn’t particularly intrigued by the pale rainbow colors rendering modern, highly symbolic and spiritual scenes that all looked very similar to me. This jack-of-all-trades is also a philologist, inventor and astrologer, and especially that last occupation strongly comes back into his work. I did my best to stand still at every artwork to get to the core of its intentions, but it never really got me.
So... all museums? ALL museums? No, not all. I’m on my way, but I had to separate the wheat from the chaff, as not all seems to be equally interesting (I call a River or Boca football museum, which is certainly not my cup of tea). This is what I managed to check off. I’m pretty sure this list will give you busy for a while.
For any interesting additions, feel free to reach out to me!
For any interesting additions, feel free to reach out to me!
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Related:
- Where to go to next in Argentina? Check out the Argentina Page!
- My first visit: Buenos Aires
- Free Healthcare in Argentina
- Travel to Uruguay: the short boat trip to Colonia del Sacramento or (better) Carmelo
- Capital cities in South America: Lima, Santiago, Quito, La Paz, Asunción, Montevideo and Bogotá
- The museums of Lima, Peru
- The slow charm attack of Serbia’s capital Belgrade
- Other places where I (shortly) lived: Haarlem [The Netherlands], Florianopolis [Brazil], Medellín [Colombia], San Jose [Costa Rica], Roatán [Honduras], Granada [Nicaragua], Boquete & Isla San Cristobal [Panama], Port Waikato [New Zealand]
- Where to go to next in Argentina? Check out the Argentina Page!
- My first visit: Buenos Aires
- Free Healthcare in Argentina
- Travel to Uruguay: the short boat trip to Colonia del Sacramento or (better) Carmelo
- Capital cities in South America: Lima, Santiago, Quito, La Paz, Asunción, Montevideo and Bogotá
- The museums of Lima, Peru
- The slow charm attack of Serbia’s capital Belgrade
- Other places where I (shortly) lived: Haarlem [The Netherlands], Florianopolis [Brazil], Medellín [Colombia], San Jose [Costa Rica], Roatán [Honduras], Granada [Nicaragua], Boquete & Isla San Cristobal [Panama], Port Waikato [New Zealand]