Bucharest
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I glanced out of the bus leaving from the airport and swallowed swiftly. It all looked so… communist. Grand lumps of concrete, shadily shaping a grey contrast with the thick packs of snow slowly being glued against the structures by penetrating ice rains slamming down on gloomy suburbs. No, to say it was love at first sight between me and Bucharest would be an unreserved lie…
But I’m tolerant. I believe in second chances. And truth been told, I like it rough. I wanted a slice of pure Balkan raw on my plate and greedily bite my teeth in. I was by all means determined to find the hidden treasures of Romania’s frozen capital. Literally.
Geocaching was going to be the compass to my urban exploration, a digital cupid to slowly but surely make me fall for the introverted charm of this destination.
It worked.
But I’m tolerant. I believe in second chances. And truth been told, I like it rough. I wanted a slice of pure Balkan raw on my plate and greedily bite my teeth in. I was by all means determined to find the hidden treasures of Romania’s frozen capital. Literally.
Geocaching was going to be the compass to my urban exploration, a digital cupid to slowly but surely make me fall for the introverted charm of this destination.
It worked.
* Geocaching can be described as ‘the world’s biggest scavenger hunt’. It’s a global outdoor adventure game for which players use GPS-signals to navigate to cleverly hidden containers in all shapes and sizes, the true treasure generally being the special location where it’s placed. I got me a 28-days simcard for 18 lei (€6) containing 60 GB… because oh yeah, forgot to tell you: Romania is cheap as hell.
My slippery voyage (made extra adventurous by giant chunks of ice promptly falling down from buildings and branches, crushing entire cars and ripping trees apart – real life Super Mario) led me to all what collectively creates Bucharest’s identity and diverse personality:
Street Art
Sure, you can glance up at those massive cement blocks marking Bucharest’s suburbia and see uninspired traces of a past that once was… but blink a few times and witness a crispy clean canvas! A unique opportunity the new creative elite resolutely acted upon, decorating these constructions of local daily life with the colours of a fresh era.
My slippery voyage (made extra adventurous by giant chunks of ice promptly falling down from buildings and branches, crushing entire cars and ripping trees apart – real life Super Mario) led me to all what collectively creates Bucharest’s identity and diverse personality:
Street Art
Sure, you can glance up at those massive cement blocks marking Bucharest’s suburbia and see uninspired traces of a past that once was… but blink a few times and witness a crispy clean canvas! A unique opportunity the new creative elite resolutely acted upon, decorating these constructions of local daily life with the colours of a fresh era.
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Sometimes even the street itself can be considered as an artwork on its own, especially when your wanderings lead you to the elegant roads of the historic centre. Let your eyes drink in glamorous boulevards like Victoriei, and satisfy sheer curiosity in passages such as Învoirii, Tonitza and lively Lipscani, bursting with life and music until the wee hours of the morning.
Museums
Let these talents of inspired souls simmer a while on Bucharest’s streets, to steam ‘em ready for the museum walls! My digital compass led me to the prime cultural capsules of town, as well as those hidden expositions that seemed to have escaped the tourist guides somehow. I found caches around the bigwigs such as the National Museum of Contemporary Art (MNAC), The National Museum of Art (MNAR – housed in the previous Royal Palace), the Art Collections Museum, the George Enescu National Museum and the National History Museum… often equally impressive from the outside as the interior you might or might not feel triggered to unveil. Personally I enjoyed stumbling upon unexpected gems like the Theodor Aman Museum, a compact gallery dedicated to this Romanian painter communicating a unique sense of national culture by pre-impressionism, his style strongly hinting to artistic superstars like Monet & co.
Not bad. Not bad at all.
Let these talents of inspired souls simmer a while on Bucharest’s streets, to steam ‘em ready for the museum walls! My digital compass led me to the prime cultural capsules of town, as well as those hidden expositions that seemed to have escaped the tourist guides somehow. I found caches around the bigwigs such as the National Museum of Contemporary Art (MNAC), The National Museum of Art (MNAR – housed in the previous Royal Palace), the Art Collections Museum, the George Enescu National Museum and the National History Museum… often equally impressive from the outside as the interior you might or might not feel triggered to unveil. Personally I enjoyed stumbling upon unexpected gems like the Theodor Aman Museum, a compact gallery dedicated to this Romanian painter communicating a unique sense of national culture by pre-impressionism, his style strongly hinting to artistic superstars like Monet & co.
Not bad. Not bad at all.
Theatres
Whatever they can do with a paint brush, Romanians do even better when provided a stage. Luckily for the culture vultures among us, Bucharest is jam-packed with top-notch venues. The most famous one, and a symbol of national pride, is the celebrated Roman Athenaeum, the elegant concert hall placing Romania on the European cultural shortlist. Besides one of Bucharest’s prime landmarks, it’s an official European Heritage listing since anno 2007.
Whatever they can do with a paint brush, Romanians do even better when provided a stage. Luckily for the culture vultures among us, Bucharest is jam-packed with top-notch venues. The most famous one, and a symbol of national pride, is the celebrated Roman Athenaeum, the elegant concert hall placing Romania on the European cultural shortlist. Besides one of Bucharest’s prime landmarks, it’s an official European Heritage listing since anno 2007.
However, no matter how much I appreciate classical music when travelling up and down by elevator, I struggle to sit out an entire concert without anything visually happening on stage but watching the ones playing the music. Theatre is, and has always been, “my thing”. That’s why my strong preference points to the Bucharest National Opera House, or even more exciting: “Opera Națională București.” Housed in a highly eminent building and offering no less than 952 seats in a wide array of price ranges (the cheapest going as low as 15 lei - €3), this place is the go-to for any admirer of the performing arts. I praise myself to be one of the lucky ones to attend the Romanian production of Serghei Prokofiev’s interpretation of Romeo & Juliette here, the strongest symphony of all times ‘dance of knights’ fiercely done justice by Zanella’s powerful choreography.
Goosebumps.
Goosebumps.
Other venues purely discovered by Geocaching are the Iuliu Maniu, the Sala Palatului, the outdoor summer theatre Capitol and Teatrul Odeon… and now I’m not even naming half of what’s out there. One of the best memories, however, I left in the southern Arenele Romane, the previous home to a long sequence of legendary metal concerts. In my case: Soilwork’s night to shine. If you don’t know what I’m talking about: Go ye into thy record shop, thou shalt educate thyself! Not only did the Gods of Metal add me to the guest list (a kind-hearted gesture after the last concert I attended in Argentina was interrupted by an acute sickness of the vocalist), I was also provided with a backstage pass to hang out with my musical heroes for hours in a row. Life is generous.
Very refreshing to learn that the men behind those metal masterpieces are down-to-earth human-beings without the tiniest slice of arrogance.
Hidden Remarkables
Not all concerts had a happy ending in Bucharest. Not the one in Club Collectiv on the 30th of October, 2015. As I stopped following the news in 2014 to free my mind from a constant influx of negativity I wasn’t aware of this devastating event, but Geocaching brought me right to the place of foregoing drama. Where 64 people lost their lives and 146 were eternally burnt in the unforgiving flames of a deadly fire, now waves a discoloured banner displaying the vigorous faces of people who just wanted to enjoy a night out, headbanging to the metalcore of their favourite band Goodbye to Gravity (of which the 2 guitarists, the bass player and the drummer also died in the fire). Romania’s biggest recent tragedy.
Hidden Remarkables
Not all concerts had a happy ending in Bucharest. Not the one in Club Collectiv on the 30th of October, 2015. As I stopped following the news in 2014 to free my mind from a constant influx of negativity I wasn’t aware of this devastating event, but Geocaching brought me right to the place of foregoing drama. Where 64 people lost their lives and 146 were eternally burnt in the unforgiving flames of a deadly fire, now waves a discoloured banner displaying the vigorous faces of people who just wanted to enjoy a night out, headbanging to the metalcore of their favourite band Goodbye to Gravity (of which the 2 guitarists, the bass player and the drummer also died in the fire). Romania’s biggest recent tragedy.
Other non-obvious places of interest I randomly found by simply searching tiny boxes on the given coordinates where the Romanian Mint Headquarters (where the first lei-coins were minted), the former brewery Fabrica de Bere Bragadiru, the Foisorul de Foc watchtower, the historical building of Hala Traian, a long sequence of bridges stretching over the Dambovita River, a substantial collection of statues honouring V.I.R.’s (Very Important Romanians) and Piatia Revolutiei. The latter specifically grabbing my attention as the Geocache was hidden right where this photo was taken:
The Romanian Revolution raged through the country in 1989, eventually ending 42 years of communist rule in Romania. A memorable moment, to say the least.
Talking about communism, another interesting discovery was the building of Electro Record, a Romanian record label originally founded in communist Romania and later transformed into the national recording company forced to follow the socialist doctrine. Nowadays it lost its market share, but it brought forth rather defining releases. A related spot is the record space of Subcarpati, a local band combing ethnicity and folklore, moulded into a more digestible version for nowadays youth. The Geocache even included a USB-stick filled with music (and viruses, most likely – but the idea is nice).
Talking about communism, another interesting discovery was the building of Electro Record, a Romanian record label originally founded in communist Romania and later transformed into the national recording company forced to follow the socialist doctrine. Nowadays it lost its market share, but it brought forth rather defining releases. A related spot is the record space of Subcarpati, a local band combing ethnicity and folklore, moulded into a more digestible version for nowadays youth. The Geocache even included a USB-stick filled with music (and viruses, most likely – but the idea is nice).
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Architecture and Sights
Besides the off-the-grid points of interest, I searched hidden treasures at the more obvious sights every travelguide hysterically raves about. Casa Poporului / Palatul Parlamentului, for example, the Parliament’s Palace (quite literally) and the biggest building of entire Europe… and except of the Pentagon, worldwide. This not-so-modest construction is 84 meters high, has a floor area of 365,000 square meters, a volume of 2,550,000 cubic meters and it contains no less than 1100 rooms. Other useless information Wikipedia provides us with it that it weighs 4,098,500,000 kilograms, which leaves me wondering on how the hell they figured that out.
Besides the off-the-grid points of interest, I searched hidden treasures at the more obvious sights every travelguide hysterically raves about. Casa Poporului / Palatul Parlamentului, for example, the Parliament’s Palace (quite literally) and the biggest building of entire Europe… and except of the Pentagon, worldwide. This not-so-modest construction is 84 meters high, has a floor area of 365,000 square meters, a volume of 2,550,000 cubic meters and it contains no less than 1100 rooms. Other useless information Wikipedia provides us with it that it weighs 4,098,500,000 kilograms, which leaves me wondering on how the hell they figured that out.
In case you want to visit you’d better start booking your tour now. Like, 3 months prior to your visit.
Other cool architectural achievements are the CEC Palace (during communism containing all the people’s savings), the Bucharest University of Economics, Assan’s House (the first Romanian who made a journey around the world – my kinda guy), and the modernist ARA Building.
Parks
Buildings. Fine. But what about some greenery? Well, Bucharest does that too. And how! It doesn’t matter what direction you wander off to, you’ll end up in a park somehow. And if you’re in luck, those are either the Herastrau Park, Tineretului Park, Cismigiu Park or the Circului Park. Geocaches all over the place! Just feel under a random bench or peek into a hole of a tree and there it might be: a tiny little book with a logbook all yours to sign! Or do as normal people do and just take advantage of the greenery to go for a run, a picnic or some ganja with your pals.
Other cool architectural achievements are the CEC Palace (during communism containing all the people’s savings), the Bucharest University of Economics, Assan’s House (the first Romanian who made a journey around the world – my kinda guy), and the modernist ARA Building.
Parks
Buildings. Fine. But what about some greenery? Well, Bucharest does that too. And how! It doesn’t matter what direction you wander off to, you’ll end up in a park somehow. And if you’re in luck, those are either the Herastrau Park, Tineretului Park, Cismigiu Park or the Circului Park. Geocaches all over the place! Just feel under a random bench or peek into a hole of a tree and there it might be: a tiny little book with a logbook all yours to sign! Or do as normal people do and just take advantage of the greenery to go for a run, a picnic or some ganja with your pals.
All parks even have outdoor fitness equipment. There’s no excuse now!
Churches
I’m generally the last person to promote church attendance. Especially in Romania, where I learned the victims of the earlier described Collectiv Club fire didn’t receive the usual (useless) good thoughts and prayers… no, these people were metalheads, thus ‘Satanists’. According to religious Romania they ‘deserved to die’. Yes, let that sink in.
The ‘love of God’ knows no boundaries, especially when it comes to decency. Yet, all that hypocrisy is packed in rather charming buildings, which you might be willing to check out (if only for the standard Geocache hidden in every gate somewhere).
Churches
I’m generally the last person to promote church attendance. Especially in Romania, where I learned the victims of the earlier described Collectiv Club fire didn’t receive the usual (useless) good thoughts and prayers… no, these people were metalheads, thus ‘Satanists’. According to religious Romania they ‘deserved to die’. Yes, let that sink in.
The ‘love of God’ knows no boundaries, especially when it comes to decency. Yet, all that hypocrisy is packed in rather charming buildings, which you might be willing to check out (if only for the standard Geocache hidden in every gate somewhere).
In non-particular order: Biserica (=Church) Dobroteasa, Russa, Sf. Gorgani, Coltea, Italiana Praesfantul Mantuitor, Papa Soare, Greaca, Farmazonului, Sf. Elefterie and Sf. Gheorghe (next to KM-Zero).
The Food Scene
All that outdoor Geocaching is quite nice… but with -6 and ice rains slamming straight into my face, leaving my hair dangling with lumps of ice, I was rather grateful to also regularly defrost at Bucharest’s lively restaurant selection. The offer is substantial, so let me narrow it down for you a bit: For a refreshing and hearty lunch that won’t leave any permanent damage to your travel budget I strongly recommend to grab a plate at Raw Corner. This laidback vegan restaurant is specialized in flavourful comfort food, varying from wraps to pizza, and from soups to desserts and amaranth caviar (the last one is a loud and clear ‘YES’ by the way)
The Food Scene
All that outdoor Geocaching is quite nice… but with -6 and ice rains slamming straight into my face, leaving my hair dangling with lumps of ice, I was rather grateful to also regularly defrost at Bucharest’s lively restaurant selection. The offer is substantial, so let me narrow it down for you a bit: For a refreshing and hearty lunch that won’t leave any permanent damage to your travel budget I strongly recommend to grab a plate at Raw Corner. This laidback vegan restaurant is specialized in flavourful comfort food, varying from wraps to pizza, and from soups to desserts and amaranth caviar (the last one is a loud and clear ‘YES’ by the way)
For that upper-class (yet affordable) family dinner you’ve been planning for a while Restaurant Barca is your spot. In a stylish setting in the northern area of Bucharest houses the healthy home base of possibly the city’s most elaborate menu. Think of anything edible ever created by human-kind: they serve it. In the most mouth-watering edition, that is. And don’t worry about that extra holiday weight, the restaurant owner single-handedly lost 40kg of body weight by eating his own food: Dig in, you’re safe!
What are you looking at? Vegan tripe soup, caramelized pineapple with non-GMO tofu and a creamy savoury chocolate cake to top it all off!
Wine wine wine!
No Geocache led me here, my taste buds did. My travels are led by my integrated Wine Radar furiously bleeping whenever a vineyard or winery is near. That the wine-alarm violently rang once entering Romanian territory caught me by surprise… as who could have possibly known there’s a flourishing wine production (and in my case: consumption) going on in this nation? Not me, that’s for sure. But there it was: Wine Ambassador, my prime start to explore what Romania has on bottle. I wasn’t disappointed. At all. An exhilarating tasting led me through an appetizing journey defined by Tamaioasa Romaeneasca (muscat), Voignier, Aligote, Negro de Dragasani and (an old-time favourite) Pinot Noir grapes. Keep ‘em coming! Enthusiasts can even sample a Fetească Neagră, marketed as the ‘Dracula Wine’ and thus making the ultimate souvenir for the rellie’s back home. Top it all off with a Palinca, containing 50% off alcohol (they tell you that after you downed it) to guarantee you can’t walk bed-wards into a straight line.
Wine wine wine!
No Geocache led me here, my taste buds did. My travels are led by my integrated Wine Radar furiously bleeping whenever a vineyard or winery is near. That the wine-alarm violently rang once entering Romanian territory caught me by surprise… as who could have possibly known there’s a flourishing wine production (and in my case: consumption) going on in this nation? Not me, that’s for sure. But there it was: Wine Ambassador, my prime start to explore what Romania has on bottle. I wasn’t disappointed. At all. An exhilarating tasting led me through an appetizing journey defined by Tamaioasa Romaeneasca (muscat), Voignier, Aligote, Negro de Dragasani and (an old-time favourite) Pinot Noir grapes. Keep ‘em coming! Enthusiasts can even sample a Fetească Neagră, marketed as the ‘Dracula Wine’ and thus making the ultimate souvenir for the rellie’s back home. Top it all off with a Palinca, containing 50% off alcohol (they tell you that after you downed it) to guarantee you can’t walk bed-wards into a straight line.
Best travel tip of the entire Bucharest Blog: Mention ‘Budget Bucket List’ when paying the bill and receive 10% off! You’re welcome.
Geocaching-Cupid did his work. It was a done deal: Bucharest revealed its beauty and I fell for it like a happy fool, its icy cityscape glittering by the reflection of scarce daylight. Big man who can resist a Crystal City.
Geocaching-Cupid did his work. It was a done deal: Bucharest revealed its beauty and I fell for it like a happy fool, its icy cityscape glittering by the reflection of scarce daylight. Big man who can resist a Crystal City.
Next stop: The-highway-with-the-impossible-name (Transfăgărășan)! Right, that one from Top Gear. Get a ride and conquer that asphalt baby!
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