Durmitor National Park & Tara Valley
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The fact that you opened a travelblog and clicked on a Montenegro-article most likely indicates that you’re either planning your upcoming Montenegro-trip or you’re already on it. I won’t be as arrogant as to assume that this is the only article you’ve read… which means you already know about Durmitor, everyone’s favorite national park in Montenegro.* Yes, it is as good as everyone says, and yes, there is no other option but to include it in your itinerary. It simply is a destination hard to ignore: The largest national park of the country** not only includes no less than 48 peaks of the Dinaric Alps (all above 2000m - 6562ft), but it also encompasses glaciers, rivers, alpine meadows, forests, 18 glacial lakes, 304 caves and a collection of spectacular canyons… one of them being the Tara Canyon, Europe’s deepest (1333m). Looking at the biological diversity, one can find over 1600 plant species, many of them endemic, as well as 300 animal species.*** of which 130 types of birds. In short, reasons aplenty for UNESCO to include them in their midst.
* Not mine actually. I absolute loved Durmitor, but it was the lesser-known Prokletije National Park that blew my off my feet.
** 32,500 hectares.
*** Including the brown bear, grey wolf, wild boar, wild cat, chamois, golden eagle and otter.
* Not mine actually. I absolute loved Durmitor, but it was the lesser-known Prokletije National Park that blew my off my feet.
** 32,500 hectares.
*** Including the brown bear, grey wolf, wild boar, wild cat, chamois, golden eagle and otter.
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There are many ways to enjoy Durmitor, challenging both the body and senses with a healthy dose of adrenaline. Yet, the most inclusive and efficient way to get a full grasp of the park is by car. This might come as a surprise from someone who slips in her hiking shoes at every occasion presented, so I’ll be honest with you: when walking out of my accommodation in Žabljak I slipped over a stretch of black ice and slammed down flat on my back, perfectly screwing up all my upcoming hiking plans. Splendid. However, one can marinate in their losses, or take this as an opportunity for a different approach. Especially in Durmitor, where they constructed the ultimate vehicle-centred attraction: The glorious Durmitor Ring. Mesdames et messieurs, señoras y señores, I present to you the best roadtrip of the entire country (and after driving around Mini-Montenegro for about a month I know what I’m talking about).
The two previous photos by Miles Watson Photography
This circular 73km-route is a true panorama-extravaganza, kicking off in Žabljak. The drive, which is clearly signposted, leads you first to Bosača, which is with 1600m one of the highest villages of the entire Balkan. Continuing past the Jablan Jezero lake, you’ll be treated on views of the peaks of Mala Greda, Ražana Glava, Crvena Greda, Mali Štuoc, Veliki Štuoc and the Durmitor Massif. The tour moves on to the famous Tara Canyon, showcasing impressive viewpoints as well as Mala Crna Gora. This village, its name translated as “Small Montenegro,” has a whooping 14 inhabitants and is cut off from the rest of the country for the duration of 5-6 months due to heavy snowdrifts. Tough life! The next stop is a viewpoint over the 700m-deep Sušica Canyon, going onwards to the Sušičko Jezero lake, which dries up entirely in summer. In need of a break? Good, you’re about to drive into three different villages: Nedajno, hidden in the Piva Nature Park and containing 10 inhabitants; Trsa, home to a small selection of restaurants serving typical local cuisine; and Pišče, a 20-pax village focused on livestock breeding. Further down the road you’ll find yet another magnificent viewpoint, granting glimpses on Mount Volujak, Bioč and Maglič… the latter being the highest point of Bosnia and Herzegovina, which I personally climbed. From this point on, it only gets more spectacular: You’re about to turn into the Todorov Do Valley, a landscape so oddly eroded by the extremity of the elements, you could easily be covinced you'd been sucked into some Star Wars movie set. The locals produced a series of legends to explain its origins, of which the one of Mount Prutaš stuck with me the most:
“The handsome young lad Todor was invited to one of the dance rituals of the fairies, who lived in the mountains of Durmitor. These mystic events contained one clear rule: no weapons allowed. However, Todor, being a shepherd, forgot to take off his knife. Torn by anger as well as jealousy for Todor’s love for a village girl, the fairies lifted him up in the clouds and threw him off the cliffs, his fall breaking parts of the mountain. While the fairies celebrated their revenge, all other shepherds gathered and waited to avenge Todor. Once the fairies fell asleep, they tied heavy rocks to their hair and threw them off the mountain, their fingernails scratching along the surface in an attempt to break the fall… and creating the current unusual appearance of Mount Prutaš."
This circular 73km-route is a true panorama-extravaganza, kicking off in Žabljak. The drive, which is clearly signposted, leads you first to Bosača, which is with 1600m one of the highest villages of the entire Balkan. Continuing past the Jablan Jezero lake, you’ll be treated on views of the peaks of Mala Greda, Ražana Glava, Crvena Greda, Mali Štuoc, Veliki Štuoc and the Durmitor Massif. The tour moves on to the famous Tara Canyon, showcasing impressive viewpoints as well as Mala Crna Gora. This village, its name translated as “Small Montenegro,” has a whooping 14 inhabitants and is cut off from the rest of the country for the duration of 5-6 months due to heavy snowdrifts. Tough life! The next stop is a viewpoint over the 700m-deep Sušica Canyon, going onwards to the Sušičko Jezero lake, which dries up entirely in summer. In need of a break? Good, you’re about to drive into three different villages: Nedajno, hidden in the Piva Nature Park and containing 10 inhabitants; Trsa, home to a small selection of restaurants serving typical local cuisine; and Pišče, a 20-pax village focused on livestock breeding. Further down the road you’ll find yet another magnificent viewpoint, granting glimpses on Mount Volujak, Bioč and Maglič… the latter being the highest point of Bosnia and Herzegovina, which I personally climbed. From this point on, it only gets more spectacular: You’re about to turn into the Todorov Do Valley, a landscape so oddly eroded by the extremity of the elements, you could easily be covinced you'd been sucked into some Star Wars movie set. The locals produced a series of legends to explain its origins, of which the one of Mount Prutaš stuck with me the most:
“The handsome young lad Todor was invited to one of the dance rituals of the fairies, who lived in the mountains of Durmitor. These mystic events contained one clear rule: no weapons allowed. However, Todor, being a shepherd, forgot to take off his knife. Torn by anger as well as jealousy for Todor’s love for a village girl, the fairies lifted him up in the clouds and threw him off the cliffs, his fall breaking parts of the mountain. While the fairies celebrated their revenge, all other shepherds gathered and waited to avenge Todor. Once the fairies fell asleep, they tied heavy rocks to their hair and threw them off the mountain, their fingernails scratching along the surface in an attempt to break the fall… and creating the current unusual appearance of Mount Prutaš."
The grand finale of the tour comes in the shape of the Sedlo, providing views on the particularly shaped Sedlena Greda, alongside Durmitor’s highest peak: Bobotov Kuk. Before heading back to Žabljak, you will pass the Pošćenska Dolina Valley containing the Valovito Jezero, Modro Jezero and Suva Lokva lakes… ending a downright mind-blowing day.
Tips: It is recommended to drive the Durmitor Ring counter-clockwise, unless you drive a campervan. There are no gas stations en route, so fill up in Žabljak. Check the weather-conditions in advance, and bring warm and water- and wind-proof clothing, as the area is very exposed. The best visiting time is between May and October – in other season ice and heavy snowfall is to be expected. In order to receive interesting information while driving, download this app for free.
Durmitor is a fantastic base for further exploration of the north-eastern part of Montenegro. I strongly recommend the scenic drive towards Pluzine, which I personally found beautiful enough to spend a day and night in, and on northwards to the Bosnian border (Hum). Another interesting day trip is the drive to Pljevlja, a vibrant little town close to the border of Serbia, with possible side roads to the more remote villages
Tips: It is recommended to drive the Durmitor Ring counter-clockwise, unless you drive a campervan. There are no gas stations en route, so fill up in Žabljak. Check the weather-conditions in advance, and bring warm and water- and wind-proof clothing, as the area is very exposed. The best visiting time is between May and October – in other season ice and heavy snowfall is to be expected. In order to receive interesting information while driving, download this app for free.
Durmitor is a fantastic base for further exploration of the north-eastern part of Montenegro. I strongly recommend the scenic drive towards Pluzine, which I personally found beautiful enough to spend a day and night in, and on northwards to the Bosnian border (Hum). Another interesting day trip is the drive to Pljevlja, a vibrant little town close to the border of Serbia, with possible side roads to the more remote villages
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Left: Durmitor Ring / Right: Pluzine & Pljevlja
Besides the must-do activity of driving the Durmitor Ring as well as conveniently reaching the starting points of all the hikes, a rental car also allows you to reach Montenegro’s more hidden secrets. Whereas Durmitor National Park is reasonably well-serviced by public transport, the majority of the other 4 Montenegrin National Parks are not (Skadar Lake, Lovćen, Biogradska Gora and the mind-boggling Prokletije). Renting a car allowed me to visit all of them, as well as all the other lesser-known destinations that were on my itinerary… while keeping the costs low, as considering the size of the country distances are short, and gas prices are inexpensive. I had an excellent experience with Drive Montenegro, who provide hassle-free service and affordable rates.
Besides the must-do activity of driving the Durmitor Ring as well as conveniently reaching the starting points of all the hikes, a rental car also allows you to reach Montenegro’s more hidden secrets. Whereas Durmitor National Park is reasonably well-serviced by public transport, the majority of the other 4 Montenegrin National Parks are not (Skadar Lake, Lovćen, Biogradska Gora and the mind-boggling Prokletije). Renting a car allowed me to visit all of them, as well as all the other lesser-known destinations that were on my itinerary… while keeping the costs low, as considering the size of the country distances are short, and gas prices are inexpensive. I had an excellent experience with Drive Montenegro, who provide hassle-free service and affordable rates.
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Photo by Miles Watson Photography |
Durmitor By Hiking
Whereas a car allows for a swift, all-around exploration, hiking enables you to slowly and thoroughly reveal all the natural secrets of the Durmitor. With Žabljak as the most well-serviced base, one can mix and match the 25 marked mountain trails, with the following being the most popular:
Whereas a car allows for a swift, all-around exploration, hiking enables you to slowly and thoroughly reveal all the natural secrets of the Durmitor. With Žabljak as the most well-serviced base, one can mix and match the 25 marked mountain trails, with the following being the most popular:
- Bobotov Kuk Trail: This loop trail is only about 10-12km… but don’t be fooled! It’s the Durmitor’s highest peak (2522m) and the last part is to be completed Via-Ferrata-style with cables and ropes. Add to that the extremely exposed environment with strong wind bursts, and in my case: frost and icy conditions (October). For these reasons I was unfortunately unable to complete this interesting hike, if only for the compromised grip by the necessity to wear thick gloves. Even though it was long considered to be Montenegro’s highest, it turns out that honor in facts goes to Zla Kolata at the border with Albania (2534m – at least I climbed that one). This hike is recommended for reasonably fit, vertigo-free hikers, prepared for the elements. Starting point: Sedlo (1908m) / Distance: 10-12km / Difficulty: Difficult. Click for GPS.
- Prutaš Peak Trail: Done with the Bobotov Kuk? Head to the curiously shaped Prutaš Peak (2393m), earlier in this article described by the fairy-legend. There are two routes, and in terms of balance I always recommend taking the heavier one upwards: from Todorov Do (along the Durmitor Ring). You can head down towards Šarban. Just as with Bobotov Kuk, you’ll be potentially exposed to extreme wind, rain and cold, so check the weather reports in advance and dress appropriately. Starting point: Sedlo / Distance: 13.8km / Difficulty: Moderate. Click for GPS.
- Lake Trail: Durmitor encompasses no less than 18 glacial lakes, charmingly nicknamed the “mountain eyes” by the local inhabitants. Understandably, hiking along them is an experience everyone of us would like to include in our visit… and the good news is: with so many lakes at hand we can mix and blend the trails to suit our personal tastes and fitness levels. Personally, I started in Bosača and combined the Red Rock Trail (Crvena Greda) with a loop around the Jablan Lake (Jablan Jezero), Snake Lake (Zminje Jezero), Black Lake (Crno Jezero) and Barno Lake (Barno Jezero). This hike I would only recommend to at least intermediate hikers, as it’s definitely not a laid-back stroll in the park for the entire family. Alternatively, you can simply hike around the lakes separately, with the Black Lake loop hike being an easy and the most popular option. There are also several lake hikes starting from the Sedlo Pass: Škrka Paradise Valley Trail & Škrčko Jezero Trail. Starting point: Bosača (Jablan Jezero parking lot) / Distance: 18.2km / Difficulty: Moderate. Click for GPS.
- Red Rock Trail (Crvena Greda): The day before I injured my back by slipping over a stretch of black ice, I luckily managed to get a hike in… and I basically morphed two hikes into one: The above-described lake loop and the Red Rock Trail. It’s almost like I prepared for a bad scenario. The Red Rock Trail doesn’t contain many red rocks, but it does provide spectacular views over the lakes and expanding mountain range. Starting from Bosača the route up starts off gradual, but gets more strenuous as it progresses. The marks to go down almost vanish completely on the top, so the route down is quite the mystery quest (we went entirely off-trail, right off the steep and slippery cliffs – not recommended). Therefore, I recommend walking it clockwise and pay attention to the markers I placed in the recording. The bright blinding sun is another reason to walk the trail clockwise. Starting point: Black Lake or Bosača (Jablan Jezero parking lot) / Distance: 20km / Difficulty: Moderate-Difficult. Click for GPS.
- Ćurevac Loop Trail: In a lazy mood? No worries, you can still see the best views of the Tara River Canyon, Europe’s deepest! The most wide-angled viewpoint is an easy 2km-roundtrip, the trail being located about 30 minutes outside of Žabljak. It is recommended to do this trail in the earlier morning hours, with the sun behind you lighting up the full spectrum of colors of this spectacular valley. Check my recording from the route from Žabljak and the trail here. Starting point: Road towards Čurevac / Distance: 2km / Difficulty: Easy. Click for GPS.
- Durmitor Ice Cave Trail (Ledena Pecina): With 34 caves at hand in the Durmitor, it’s only fair to visit at least one of them… so what about an actual ice cave? This relatively challenging trail partly overlaps with the Red Rock Trail, and as such provides the same significant views, combined with forest trails. Walk this trail clockwise. Starting point: Black Lake or Bosača (Jablan Jezero parking lot) / Distance: 11km / Difficulty: Moderate-Difficult. Click for GPS.
Notes:
- Spring, summer and early autumn are the prime hiking seasons. Be prepared for rough weather conditions and ice/snow during the rest of the year.
- Always bring wind/waterproof clothing, extra layers, a hat and more food and water you think you need (in case you get stranded). Proper hiking boots and hiking poles are recommended. I personally always carry a small hiking kit which includes an emergency blanket, talc powder, a headlamp with extra batteries, a compass, first-aid-kit with tape and blister band aids, a tick-remover, rope, sunscreen, duct tape, reflecting bands.
- Contrary to many other travel blogs, I most definitely do not recommend Maps.me. Not in Durmitor, not in Montenegro, and not in the entire Balkan. I very often got in trouble doing so. Maps.me depicts trails that don’t exist anymore, and could be entirely overgrown, demolished by construction work, or privatized and shielded off. If this is the only trail option you have it can cause enormous backtracking, which can waste the precious available daylight hours (especially in autumn and winter). I recommend downloading the offline trails from the Wikiloc app (or other GPS hiking apps), which allows you to precisely navigate.
- You’re reading a blog to prepare for your hikes: Good on you! You will not find any useful trail information on-site. My experience in Montenegro with park offices and tourist information points is that they are A) Closed altogether, B) Don’t have employees who speak any other foreign language, or C) Have employees that have never done a single hike in the area and have absolutely no clue what they’re talking about, and as such recommend things that are either ridiculous or that can put your life at risk. The Hiker’s Den Hostel in Žabljak, recommended by many travelers due to the knowledgeable hiking guides running it, turned out to be permanently closed.
- There are two mountain lodges: Mountain lodge Škrka in between the Veliko and Malo Škrčko Lake, and Sušica near the Sušica lake. The latter is open from June-Sept. There are two mountain shelters (bivouacs): Lokvice is located on the main hub of Durmitor and it can accommodate 20 people. In addition to the lodge, there is a place for camping and there’s drinking water. Alpine shelter Kalice is situated between Šljemena and Savin Kuk, with the capacity of 6 -12 beds. There are many camping sites such as Žugic Luka, Radovan Luka, Škrka, Sušica, Šarban and Lokvice.
Other Sports
Besides being a sublime location for roadtrips and hiking endeavours, the Durmitor mountains provide excellent opportunities for climbing, mountainbiking and mountaineering. The Tara Canyon, as well as the Draga, Sušica and Komarnica, are famous for river rafting. Be mindful that the rapids that make rafting so adrenaline-loaded are strongest from April to June. However, summer is still rather popular for this outdoor sport due to the pleasant climate. Generally, operators stop offering tours in October due to the cold climate (this area has a high elevation). In winter, Žabljak turns into the country’s primary ski resort.
Besides being a sublime location for roadtrips and hiking endeavours, the Durmitor mountains provide excellent opportunities for climbing, mountainbiking and mountaineering. The Tara Canyon, as well as the Draga, Sušica and Komarnica, are famous for river rafting. Be mindful that the rapids that make rafting so adrenaline-loaded are strongest from April to June. However, summer is still rather popular for this outdoor sport due to the pleasant climate. Generally, operators stop offering tours in October due to the cold climate (this area has a high elevation). In winter, Žabljak turns into the country’s primary ski resort.
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