North-East Lithuania

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I tend to resent revisiting countries. By default it mildly pisses me off, as it reminds me of my desire to thoroughly explore every single country in the world and the time I am “wasting” on familiar terrain. Yet, that initial self-caused irritation (during usually unplanned returns) tends to swiftly bend into joy when my revisit confronts me with the fact that almost every country in the world, even the small ones, require multiple visits to fully explore, unravel and understand. Lithuania was no exception. I mean, I had seen its capital, Vilnius, combined with Trakai, Kaunas and a couple of days in its stunning Aukstatija National Park… so who am I to claim I know Lithuania? I have seen parts of it, yes, more than the average citytripper… but this is just a laidback introduction, honestly.

It definitely didn’t hurt to march into the country a second time on foot, as the cheerful end note of a 1000km-hike through the Baltics… and follow up with a 2-week hitchhike trip through the lush north-east. I was hitting spots the average tourist wouldn’t easily wander off to (if only for the complicated accessibility) while exclusively hiding out in the houses of locals. I discovered places I had no idea existed during my very first visit, even though I most definitely explored the very same country. I felt stimulated, ecstatically lured in once again… and I left Lithuania not feeling irritated, but grateful to be welcomed in again, hoping they’d once again welcome me with open arms to show all those other hidden treasures that I didn’t even get to in these two visits. One step at a time… for now, Lithuania’s north-east was conquered by my vagabondage, whereas in its turn it conquered my memories.

Lithuania’s North-East

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Grazutes Regional Park (Salakas)

There’s not much going on in the tiny village of Salakas… and there is no need for it either (still, for a good laugh, check out this “introduction text” to Salakas written by whatever random CEO-non-specialist who clearly has never been there). Once upon a time it flourished, when in the mid-1500s its location, smack-bam on the trade route from Vilnius to Riga, brought in the necessary liveliness and (predominantly Jewish) migration. However, the creation of the nearby border after the Polish-Lithuanian War, as well as the tragic Holocaust, put an end to this episode. So now it reduced (or elevated) to a hidden hideout in the forest no one but its own inhabitants seemed to have ever heard of, surrounded by the heavenly Grazutes Regional Park. My stay was enhanced by my sleepover at the house of two married rangers, who just like myself (but on a more profound and permanent level) were lured in by the irresistible call of the Baltic forests. Places on Earth that beg to be hiked, kayaked, cycled, cross-country skied… or whatever you can lay your hands on. Adventurer, go do it all, over and over again and with untamed enthusiasm, as spots like this one are worthy of fulfilling those outdoor yearnings.

As my time here coincided with the forest’s most beautiful season (autumn, when Lithuania bathes in a sea of colors) my hosts urged me to do as the locals do and drag along a mushroom-bag. The national frenzy. Mushrooms, mushrooms, gotta collect allllll the mushrooms and hide your collection spots before the greedy neighbours get air of it! I am a passionate supporter of collecting sources of nourishments out of the woods… it has a wholesome element to it. Yet, when it comes to mushrooms, I’m terrified. Mushrooms are the most versatile veggies in the that sense they are either mouthwatering delicious, they get you high as a kite (so far so good) or… you drop dead. To me (a nitwit raised in a country were mushrooms are protected and we’re drilled not to ever touch them for nature preservation) it’s not worth the risk honestly… I rather just pay for them and guarantee my life safety. But my Lithuanian ranger-hosts wouldn’t take “no” for an answer and assured me they’d do a thorough check before consumption. Alrighty-hoo… result? Of the ca. 5kg I took home, I’m exaggerating if we could eat 500 grams. Mic-drop. Leaving it to the Lithuanians from now on.

On a very different note: Besides your intimate vis-à-vis with Baltic nature, a daytrip to the Ignalina Nuclear Powerplant forms part of the options. A short 35km ride (or in my case: hitchhike) will lead you out of nature-made treasures, straight into the invention of men: The Lithuanian Chernobyl, but without all the drama. In fact, the reason Ignalina has been shut down is exactly because of the hysteria around the Chernobyl disaster, causing the absence of nuclear power to be an entry requirement to the European Union. Easier said than done, literally. You cannot just “switch off” nuclear energy and its radioactive waste of what used to be Europe’s biggest power plant… that’s a process that can take up to 300 years to safely complete. And as it was never done before, the Ignalina staff, of which a big chunk is still employed with this task at hand, had to invent this ongoing process from scratch. And you can learn all about it… if, unlike me, you actually plan your visit and don’t just rock up whenever life and some cognitive travel hiccup just randomly brought you here. That said, they were nice enough to dedicate a sheer amount of time to me in the visitor centre and even offered me a virtual reality tour through their unusual story. Definitely not as exciting as Chernobyl (yup, was there too, don’t ask), but worth the detour.

(Most probably you’ll pass through Visaginas, a town as odd as its name. It’s a communist city pumped out of the ground for its predominant Russian factory workers with functionality as its core value. And it shows.)

FREE Sights / Activities Grazutes Regional Park (Salakas)

Sights: Church of the Blessed Virgin Mary of Sorrows-
Museums: Exhibition Grazutes RP Visitor Centre.
Hikes / Nature: Salakas Hiking Trail (signposted… find here the GPS for the alternative loop I did).
In the area: Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant (tours need to be reserved in advance – most are free).

Zarasai

On the northern edge of Grazutes Regional Park lies Zarasai, right on the border with Latvia. Unlike Salakas, one can speak of an actual town in this case. A tiny one, but Zarasai compensates for its small size with its great pleasantness. It’s a place where I voluntarily got stuck for two days, opting one day to indulge in its inevitable stunning natural environments, a pampering I have almost gotten used to in the Baltics, and the other day in its cultural offer. As that actually exists in Zarasai! Don’t waste your time and money on the Region / History Museum (Zarasu Krasto Muziejus) though, home of a limited and rather uninspiring collection of historical artefacts and a separate exhibition of low-quality artworks (the “occupational therapy” kinda rubbish)… run straight to its brand new Art Museum in the downtown area, at the time of writing not even listed anywhere yet on the world wide web. It was there were my obsession with Sarunas Sauka started. This painter has absolutely, thoroughly lost the plot… but his genius mind managed to grab that plot by the throat and smash it right on the canvas. His work is downright mental, like a concretised nervous breakdown composed of splinters of objects, bodies and faces mocking the mundane and conventional. A bricolage of madness. God, I love this man. And so does Lithuania, as not only did he understandably receive the National Prize for Culture and Arts in his early career, he also received the Lithuanian Government Prize for Culture and Art in 2017. As he rarely holds exhibitions and stays off the net, this is a unique opportunity to shake hands with The Absurd. Besides its top-shelve art exhibition, the museum also boasts an engaging collection on women in war, as well as a photographic display of the Zarasai that once was.

Other Zarasai tourist stops include the Lake Zarasai Observation Deck & Walkway, catering to those eager to take in the lake views. It’s located right next to the local library, which isn’t an obvious attraction on its own, but offers a cheap coffee break with pleasant river and city views. If you have a car or don’t mind a little walk, the free-to-visit Slyninkos Vandens Malunas is a traditional watermill where one aims to keep the ancient trade of rye bread baking alive. It’s overly touristy, but a nice opportunity to get introduced to this traditional technique. Of course this is also the place to buy freshly-baked rye bread as well, or have a bite at their restaurant… yet, I’d recommend to save your appetite for Restaurant Monopolis, which serves an excellent selection of traditional Lithuanian foods done extremely well.

I couldn’t find an overly extensive trail network in the area, unless you have the means to go all the way down back to Grazutes again. Yet, I enjoyed following the walkway from the Observation Deck, alongside the lake, which eventually connects to the bridge onto the little island in the middle where you can follow some short trails nevertheless. It’s easy to see how the island makes for a lively and multifunctional area in the summer days, with its beaches, wakeboarding facilities, fitness tracks, bicycle lanes and spacious playgrounds (cabins can be rented here as well). After my island exploration I continued to loop around the lake entirely, but this turned out to involve heaps of asphalt roads and trespassing, as most of its coast is privatized… so I’d demotivate you to follow in my footsteps right there. What I do recommend you doing, is tracing down Tomas on Couchsurfing. As staying with him made an already good time in Zarasai infinitely better.

FREE Sights / Activities Zarasai

Sights: Lake Zarasas Observation Deck & Walkway, Library, Slyninkos Vandens Malunas Water Mill, Catholic Church of the Assumption of the Blessed Virgin Mary, Independence Monument.
Hikes / Nature: Zarasas Lake Island, Luodis Lake, Druksiai Lake, Deguciai Interpretive Hiking Trail.
In the area: Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant (tours need to be reserved in advance – most are free).

PAID Sights / Activities Zarasai

Museums: Zarasai Art Museum, Zarasu Krasto Muziejus / Region Museum.
In the area: Ignalina Nuclear Power Plant (tours need to be reserved in advance – most are free).

Labanoro Regional Park (Kulionys)

Another one even all Lithuanians I talked to never-ever heard of: Kulionys. Not surprising, considering the total village consists of a staggering 15 houses and a sauna which smells like genitals.* Yet, in 1 of those houses lives an active Couchsurfing couple, who after roaming the planet for an extended period of time now opens their doors for the world that welcomed them. Talking about planets… there’s one main reason why I was there: The Ethno Cosmological Museum, shaped like a Stalinist UFO. The name alone is reason enough to award them with a visit. A name, as it turned out, seemed to be used just for the sake of it. I spent my entire visit wondering what the hell they meant with that pretentious “ethno”-addition in between the collection of meteorites and pieces of the moon… But, on the bright side, read that again: There are meteorites and pieces of the moon!!! This was a phrase I was indeed screaming out loud, making sure that all other tour guests were not missing out on the outrageousness of that fact. I mean… Meteorites! The moon! If you don’t share the same level of untamed excitement with me on this one, I’m afraid we can’t hang out anymore.**

* A Lithuanian sauna visit truly is one for the books. I wasn’t a novice with the practice, yet its ritual never ceases to astonish me. Be ready to get entirely butt naked, except of a goofy felt hat… which somehow makes you feel even more naked. Then be ready to get flogged down repeatedly by your host, who uses a rod of birch twigs to beat the living daylights out of you under the flag of “stimulated blood circulation.” Don’t be surprised to be asked to jump in the freezing cold lake afterwards, of which they may or may not have to crack the ice open to grant you access.

**Make sure to plan your visit a few days in advance, as they will only let you in with a tour and the English-speaking guide (singular) doesn’t work every day. If you want to spend the night for some stargazing, prior reservations need to be made as well.

Kulionys also hosts the country’s largest observatory… but unfortunately, this one is not receiving any visitors.

Another big hell-yeahz is of course its location right within the Labanoro Regional Park, favorite of most Lithuanians. With 285 lakes and dense forest stretches full of free camping spots and hiking trails, this is indeed a priority destination to throw on the bucket list. I was here before, as a matter of fact, during my last visit to the greater area labelled Aukstaitija National Park, of which Labanoro is part. The natural beauty of Lithuania truly is a delight to take in, and this might be the best place for it.

FREE Sights / Activities Labanoro Regional Park & Kulionys

Sights: Observatory.
Hikes / Nature: Labanoro Regional Park, Aukstaitija National Park.

PAID Sights / Activities Labanoro Regional Park & Kulionys

Museums: Ethno Cosmological Museum.

Siauliai

The first proper city on the list: Siauliai. Good luck pronouncing that one! It’s a place I didn’t necessarily decide to visit. It just happened to be the nearest one to the point where I reached the 1000km on my hike, so it seemed suitable for a very well-deserved break of relaxation and lots of wine. The city itself turned out to not be that bad either. It’s in fact the 4th biggest city of Lithuania, historically relevant as a developing defence post against the numerous raids by the Livonian and Teutonic Orders. Nowadays we can find a lively city center, full of bars, restaurants and the daily razmataz. You’ll notice historical elements combined with a pleasant modern edge and funky street art corners. Their main church is rather unusual, uncannily hinting to the Cinderella Castle in Disneyland (who was first, who was first!?). They added a bunch of highly unnecessary and not-the-least unique museums to the mix, of which duplicates can be visited in basically any other European city… Nahh, it’s one very specific thing you are here for, fellows: The Hill of Crosses. I shortly elaborated on it in my last Baltic Camino blog, but let me just shamelessly repeat myself:
The Hill of Crosses started to emerge in the 14th century, when the area was occupied by the Teutonic Knights of the Holy Roman Empire. At the time, the spot recited the desire of Lithuanian independence. In medieval times, crosses kept on being placed by Catholics for religious reasons, whereas in the 1830s they served as memorials of the missing and murdered rebels who fought against the Russian control. The Hill even survived the Soviets, known to propagate atheism and punish any religious outbursts. Fair enough, they bulldozed the site no less than three times, but it kept re-emerging. Nowadays, an estimated 200,000 crosses crown the holy hill, which was even visited by the pope.

FREE Sights / Activities Siauliai

Sights: Siauliai Saint Disciple Peter and Paul Cathedral, Sundial Square, Chaimas Frenkelis Villa, St. George Church.
In the area: Hill of Crosses.

PAID Sights / Activities Siauliai

Museums: Ruta Sokolado Muziejus, Angel Museum, Cat Museum, Photography Museum, Bicycle Museum, Ausros Museum, Radio and Television Museum, Railway Museum, Telephony Museum.

Another city in the area you can visit is Panevezys. However, I found it by all means less interesting than Siauliai.

Anyksciai

Anyksciai and I just clicked. I didn’t choose her and she had no idea I was coming, but there we were, sudden BFF’s. Let’s face it, neither your or I have ever heard of this place… so all the more surprising it was to just find an absolute wealth of activities and sights in this tiny, modest destination. Although, modest? One can easily see that big money has been pumped into Anyksciai, all just to please both unsuspecting or highly-expecting visitors. The babbling river is aligned with mint bicycle lanes, modernly contrasting with the historical wooden houses beautifully dotting the scenic river bands. This town, officially baptized “summer resort” in 1938, looks immaculately polished and clean, but without betraying its own historical identity. Besides a summer resort, it also surfs the wave of “ski resort town”, which seems slightly ridiculous to me. I mean, I’ve seen the ant hill they marketed as their “ski slope”: it would take me 30 seconds to get down. With my eyes closed. That said, there is another very fun activity to be experienced here: a bobsleigh ride! I’m 36 years old and I found it necessary to do it twice.

The first spot popping into sight is undoubtedly the St. Matthew Church, boasting Lithuania’s highest towers (79m) and containing many relevant artworks inside. Yet, for me, it was the small but impressive art exhibition of folk-artist Stanislovas Petralka that made me thankful for being here. This unusual artist gained the necessary fame by his special technique of building his artworks out of stone dust, placing the end product somewhere in between paintings and mosaics. It’s a tiring and lengthy process taking anywhere in between 3-6 months per output. As for the themes of the paintings, all of them are one way or another related to the artist's hometown of Anyksciai and/or the most important moments of Lithuanian history, which makes this exhibition extra relevant.
Another museum which is less unique in its sort, but was nevertheless quite interesting was the Narrow Gauge Railway Museum, honoring the 750-mm gauge railway line from 1899. It’s the longest of the sort in Europe and it’s included in the register of non-movable cultural properties of the Republic of Lithuania. If you want to learn more about the town of Anyksciai itself, the exhibition in the Regional Park Office will help out (for the price of one buck). Obviously, they are centered more around the natural value of this destination, as hey: surprise surprise, this place has a Regional Park as well. You’re in Lithuania after all.

Anyksciai Regional Park covers an area of 1441.7 ha. The territory of the reserve begins at the boundaries of the southern downtown area and stretches for 9km into the direction of Kurkliai, in the shape of a 1km-wide narrow stripe on both banks of the Sventoji river. This strip contains a perfect bicycle lane, which I conveniently used for my exploration. Botanic investigations show that there are 769 species of higher plants growing in the reserve, 20 out of which are included in the list of extinct and endangered species of Lithuania. The Anyksciai forest, which gained fame by the famous poem of Antanas Baranauskas, also contains a few of the country’s biggest boulders which turned into a true tourist attraction. Personally, I gained more joy out of the Hanging Bridge hovering above the tree tops and overlooking the Sventoji river. A true highlight of my visit. In the forest area you may also stumble upon the Light of Happiness Obelisk situated on the on Liudiskiai Hill… which is in fact the gravestone of writer Jonas Biliunas.

As if Anyksciai not already thoroughly pleased me, they are also the cradle of Lithuanian wine. Huh, do the Baltics even have that, I hear you frown. They indeed do, but as a wino-purist I must immediately add that the quality is questionable. Not often do I turn down a glass of wine, but in the Baltics it happened. The reason being that the grape is unfortunately not holy in the north… they dare to brew their wines from alternative fruits, such as plums, apples and whatever types of berries. Poor decision-making, yet understandable with the resources at hand. That said, of all the disappointing wines I nevertheless tried during my 4 months in the Baltics, against better judgement and always hoping for a miracle, this one from Anyksciai is actually pretty damn decent. And with “this one” I refer to the output of the Anykschy Mens Company, founded in 1926 and currently representing Higher Lithuania in the network of European Regional Culinary Heritage. Nowadays they welcome visitors into their premises for a history lesson in Lithuanian wine and an unavoidable tasting, but I was lucky that my incredible host had already bought a bottle for me to sample. Together with Cepelinai, a huge boiled potato stuffed with meat and topped with the in the Baltics so beloved sour cream. Followed up with a desert of local “mushroom cookies” and sheets of “apple cheese” (comparable to Georgian tklapi, sheets of dried fruits).
Lithuania has just been incredibly kind to me. Every person I met, who had never met me, made sure I felt I reached my destination.

FREE Sights / Activities Anyksciai

Sights: Light of Happiness Obelisk, St. Matthew Church.
Museums: Stanislovas Petralka Museum.
Hikes / Nature: Anyksciai Regional Park, Puntukas Boulder.

PAID Sights / Activities Anyksciai

Museums: Narrow Gauge Railway Museum
Other: Hanging Bridge in Anyksciai Forest.

The Anyksciai Grove

Stump-littered hillocks, desolate and bare,
Can anyone believe you once were fair?
Where are your former charms? Where did they go?
Where is your humming when the wind would blow
And toss the white-wood foliage to and fro
And rock your pines, as centuries ago?
Where are your birds and nestlings to be found
Whose chirping such contentment spread all round?
Where are your living creatures large and small,
The burrows and the lairs that housed them all?
All, all has gone: in the deserted plain
A few disfigured pines alone remain.
With needle, cone and twig the earth is strewn –
A barren waste the sun bakes hard in June,
A sight the soul views with as much distress
As ruined palaces rank weeds possess,
Or heaps of rubble where a town once teemed,
Or bone-dry moss where marshland softly gleamed.
----
Once walking here you found your eyes would ache:
The forest would your soul so merry make,
Your heart so glad you wondered in surprise:
Where am I – in a wood or Paradise?

All that surrounds you with such beauty glows!
With every scent the forest woos your nose
And lively sounds you hear in every part.
You sense a deep calm soothing to the heart.

What scents abound! Pine resin fills the air.
The scent of flowers gentle breezes bear.
In clearings white-red clover, camomile
And thyme with fragrance rare your nose beguile.

The presence of an anthill you can tell.
Leaf, needle, pine-cone have a different smell
Each time you pass. A breeze however slight
Will bring new scents each time for your delight.

Here's aromatic cranberry and moss.
Here orchard-blossom scents you come across.
The forest like a living creature breathes:
The nearby field and meadowland it wreathes

In fragrance, while among its pines in turn
The scents of field and meadow you discern.
All mingle in the air, so thick they come
Your nose cannot distinguish every one.

It is as if wood, meadow, field combine
Their richest scents to make a perfume fine
Which to God's glory they are offering
As they together sigh, rejoice and sing.

Their voices weave a hymn of many parts
To touch with perfect harmony our hearts.
How fine are forest sounds, not only scents!
The forest hums, resounds with eloquence,

While midnight brings a silence that is so
Profound you hear each leaf and flower grow,
Hear tree to tree in gentle whispers call,
Each star through heaven move, each dewdrop fall.

The heart is hushed. Such peace reigns everywhere
The soul soars heavenward in quiet prayer.
But when the new day dawns with gleaming brow
And blades of grass, dew-laden, earthward bow

The forest wakens, night-time silence flees
And day again resumes its melodies.
That rustle? It's a leaf the breeze has stirred
Or, stirring in its nest, a waking bird.

That crackling? It's a homebound wolf who, loath
To hunt by day, breaks through the undergrowth.
A captured duck the fox bears to his lair,
A badger scurries from his burrow there,

A roe bounds past, a squirrel neatly takes
A flying leap onto a bough that shakes,
A stoat or marten rummages about…
The forest creatures are all up and out.

There was a time, a time when beauteous calm
The forest breathed, our hearts to soothe and charm.
For Lithuanians relish calm and ease
As lush grass relishes a gentle breeze

That stirs dark ripples as it passes by:
We often weep in woods, not knowing why.
For it is there we feel a pain is eased,
The heart soothed and anxiety appeased;

Warm tears born of a sentiment unique
Come rolling then like pearl dew down the cheek.
Long afterwards our lungs breathe the forest air,
Our breast as gently stirs as pines do there.

Such deep tranquillity pervades the soul
It bows as wheatears do when ripe and whole.
This is the source from which our tears and sighs,
Our solace and our poetry arise.

Now all has gone… In the deserted plain
A few disfigured pines alone remain.
Our folk have always lived at one with trees
And know few closer lifelong friends than these.

With windfalls only would they heat their hut,
Plait doors from branches, no boards would they cut
And no axe to a trunk they ever laid
Unless the tree already was decayed.

In turn the forest soothed and gave delight,
Loved Lithuania's folk with all its might.
It clothed and fed them, sheltered them as well,
To bar the way to enemies it fell,

In evil days – a refuge from our foes,
In time of grief – a place of sweet repose,
In happy days its charms it would unfold,
At all times granting blessings manifold.

Then hard times came. Of hunger people died,
Made bark soup, baked their bread with moss inside.
Such starving folk who hardly eat at all
In time of plague like trees will reel and fall.

The forest pitied them, dew tears it shed
And wet its crowns in grey clouds overhead.
"My starving brothers all!" it cried. "Fight back!
A blessing on the hand that wields an axe!"

They wept, did those who first a few trees felled.
Their children groaned – the ax salvation spelled.
Their children's children sighed, cut more trees down.
Their great-grandchildren carted logs to town

And when to market forty loads they sent
Rejoiced, assured of one day's nourishment.
With timber so abundant prices fell.
They sold until there was not much to sell.

Whatever money they received they drank
And into ways of dissolution sank.
And so no forest did our fathers find,
Yet found they were like brothers of one mind

To save land for the trees for which they pined,
So sorely bitter tears would their eyes blind
On viewing stumps: for Lithuanian souls
Whom forest beauty nurtures and consoles

In treeless bleak expanses run to seed,
They wither and expire in sorest need.
Our treeless generation from old songs
Learns forest lore and for a forest longs.

Our folksong from a love of trees has grown
And all the songs were to our fathers known.
So now a pinewood patiently they reared
And in their loving labors persevered.

They raised a handsome pine grove, dense as reeds.
The young at heart and children were well pleased.
Such care of their new grove did people take
No twig, however tiny, would they break

Anyksciai town rejoiced – the trees looked good.
And people went elsewhere for firewood.

(…)

By: Antanas Baranauskas

Quick Budget Fact Overview

Lithuania Facts

Capital: Vilnius
Language: Lithuanian (a minority speaks exclusively Russian)
Population: ± 2.8 mln
Sq km: ± 65,300
Currency: Euro (€ - EUR)
Electricity Outlet: F / 220 V / 50 Hz. Check here.
Country Code Phone: +370
Emergency Phone: 112
Visa: Schengen visa (Lithuania is part of the EU). Easy visa application here.
Vaccinations: None, although it’s recommended to get vaccinated against tick-borne encephalitis and Lyme disease.
Climate: Cold Winter Humid Continental Climate (Dfb)
High season: July-August

Short History Recap Lithuania

1400s: Jews arrive. 1657: Plague. 1915: German occupation WWI. ’18: Independence. ’20: Independence recognized by Soviet Russia (Treaty of Moscow). ’26: Nationalist party leader Smetona seizes power in military coup. ’39: Soviet military bases. ’40: Soviet invasion, Lithuania incorporated in USSR. ’41: Thousands Lithuanians deported to Siberia. Nazis invade USSR and occupy Lit. ’44: Soviets return, further deportations and repression. ’88: Lithuanian Movement for Reconstruction (Sajudis). ’89: Parliament approves declaration of sovereignty. ’90: Sajudis wins elections, leader: Vytautas Landsbergis, chairman. USSR imposes embargo → economic difficulties → suspension of independence. Soviet troops shoot civilians. ’91: Referendum votes favor independence → recognized by USSR after failed coup. Joins OSCE and UN. ’92: New constitution: Presidency. ’93: Brazauskas president. Litas currency. Complete soviet withdrawal. ’94: Treaty of Friendship with Poland. ’95: Banking crisis. Centre-right coalition. ’97: Border treaty & cooperation agreement with Russia. ’98: Adamkus president (US citizen) → ’99: contract to sell Lithuanian state oil to US. ’03: Paskas president. ’04: Joins NATO. ’04: Paskas dismissed (relation Russian crime). ’04: Joins EU. ’04: Adamkus again president. ’08: Nazi and Soviet symbols banned. ’09: Pres Grybauskaite. ’15: Euro €.

Budget Bites

Main Supermarket Chains: Iki, Norfa, Silas, Narvesen, Cia, Aibé, Rimi, Lidl and Maxima.
Local Dishes Lithuania: Cepelinai (potato dumplings with meat), Saltibarsciai (cold soup), Burokeliu Sriuba (beetroot soup), Silke (herring), Zemaiciu or Bulviniai Blynai and Kugelis (meat pancakes), Karbonadas (pork steak), Saslykai (grilled fat meat), Vedarai (pig intestines), Skilandis (stuffed pig’s stomach), Kepta Duona (fried bread), Kibinai (meat and veggie pastries), Vistienos Sultinys (chicken broth), Desra (sausages), Troskinti Rauginti Kopustai (sauerkraut stew), Didzkukuliai (potato dumplings), Lasiniai (pork fat with skin), Grybukai (cookies), Ragualois (high cake).

The Veg Situation: Going veg could be complicated in Lithuania, as traditionally meat and fish are central in most meals. That said, most supermarkets contain veg products, be it very processed at times. Veg restaurants can be found here.
National Drinks: Mead / Stakliskes (fermented honey drink), Beer (also Alus in Lithuanian), Kaimiskas Jovary (naturally fermented beer), Samane & Starka (rye spirit), Traiktine Dainava (fruit liquor), Sweet Berry-Based Wines.

Sleep Cheap

Hostels / Hotels / Guesthouses: Of all Baltic countries, Lithuania is the cheapest. Even though prices are steadily rising in Lithuania, you will still be able to find some affordable deals. Without being paid to say so, I found Booking.com the most convenient website to compare prices and find the best deals.
Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost (unless you put a third-world country as homebase), but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate review explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored). The Couchsurfing community in Lithuania is rather big and dedicated. I had 4 Couchsurf stays during my latest visit.
Wild Camping: is entirely legal in Lithuania, with the exception of private land. You can literally spend the night anywhere you want, as long as you don’t leave a mess and treat nature with respect.

Mama Said

Safety: Lithuania is a very safe country, both when it comes to animals and people.
Tap Water: is safe to drink. Lithuanians also love their natural water sources for water provision, but you’ll generally need a local to point those out to you as they’re not clearly signposted. I drank straight from the streams in the forest without any issues, but I used a lifestraw/filter for the water from the bigger rivers or when close to a town or farmland. However, when cooking a filter wasn’t needed, as the act of boiling already kills the bacteria.
The best credit/debit card for traveling is Wise, as they use the live conversion rates with minimal exchange fees. Wise also has the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. https://wise.com/invite/u/stephaniev80 Revolut is comparable, but they have higher exchange fees in the weekend and less wallet-options. Also, you can only wire money to Revolut in the currency you opened the account with, whereas Wise has IBAN’s from a wide variety of currencies, so you don’t have to pay a double exchange fee. https://revolut.com/referral/stephahu7e!NOV2-22-VR-NL Most Lithuanian ATMs charge a fee for cash outs (especially when your card is in another currency than euros), but card payments are generally accepted everywhere, even in the countryside.
Simcard Lithuania: You can continue using your EU simcard in Lithuania, as a chunk of your data will still work in other European countries. However, if you want a Lithuanian sim, you can choose between Telia (Extra & Ezys, only the latter has data roaming), Tele2 (Pildyk) and Bite (Labas). You can simply buy them in the brand stores, supermarkets, gas stations, kiosks and post offices. No ID is needed.

Transport

Walking: Most cities and towns in Lithuania are very pedestrian friendly. Lithuania also has several (long distance) trails crossing through different parts of the country.
Cycling: I found the traffic to be quite intense in Lithuania, with many reckless drivers. Bicycle lanes aren’t separated from the main road either. Therefore, be very careful when opting for a cycling trip.
Public Transport: The capital Vilnius offers a combination of buses, express buses and trolleybuses. In the countryside there are only less-frequent buses that only go once or several times a day. You can top up the JUDU or Vilniecio card for payment, available in train- and bus stations, airports and kiosks, or buy tickets online at the m.Ticket or Trafi apps. It is also possible to buy a more expensive paper ticket from the driver, paying in cash.
Taxi / Uber: Uber does operate in Lithuania, as well as Bolt and eTaksi.
Intercity Buses: are very frequent in the bigger cities, but generally only go once or a few times a day in the countryside. Therefore, prior planning is key. Google Maps is unreliable for bus times, as it’s not always up-to-date. In Lithuania, you can buy tickets online at Autobusubilietai.lt.
Train: In Lithuania the train network is operated by LTG Link. The further in advance you buy your ticket, the cheaper it gets.
Car Rental: is pretty cheap in Lithuania. However, the best deals can generally be found when the car is picked up from the airport, from other locations it can be 3 or 4 times more expensive.
Airport: Vilnius International Airport (VNO). Kaunas International Airport (KUN).
Hitchhiking: is relatively safe in Lithuania and people seem to be rather used to it. I hitchhiked on plenty occasions in Lithuania and I always managed almost instantly (as a woman alone).

Next?

National Destinations Close By: Vilnius, Trakai, Kaunas.

International Destinations Close By: Latvia, Belarus, Poland, Russia.

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