Montenegro's Coastal Towns
Which coastal destinations should you include in your Montenegro itinerary?
Travel down the Adriatic shore with Budget Bucket List! From north to south, the Montenegrin coastal towns reviewed in brutal honesty:
Herceg Novi
The main advantage of Herceg Novi in its attempt to wow me, is that it was the very first stop of my 1-month-Montenegro-journey. Unlike the majority of holidaymakers I did not bypass this destination to hurry straight down to Kotor… quite gratefully so! Besides the undeniable charm of its old town, it combines this historical trait with a more modern city buzz and a sparkling nightlife. Once the go-to “beach” resort of Yugoslavia, it now quieted down a tad to make space for a more varied yet predominantly local crowd. Even though it doesn’t have any significant sand beaches (besides a tiny nude beach on the Croatian end and a lil’ sand-sweep in Igalo), it does provide a 7km boulevard full of life, street music and good vibrations. Instead of purely focusing on that standard dose of beach relaxation, Herceg Novi invites you to climb its “1001 stairs”, look up at the clock tower, visit Forte Mare, rent a kayak or dream away on the strains of the flute floating out of the monastery… and most importantly: to sample its wine! Yes, ladies and gentlemen, you came to the right country: Montenegro knows wine. I had yet to explore this gem of a nation in its full glory, but I already whole-heartedly signed up for it after sampling that first sublime glass. It doesn’t matter if you check off Herceg Novi on a quick daytrip, or (like me) spend a full 5-day-stretch… Savina Winery is an obligatory stop. If it isn’t their fresh variations of Chardonnays luring you in, the downright magnificent views to be enjoyed from their terrace while nibbling on a fancy snack platter will.*
* Reservations necessary - check the different tasting packages here. Although not necessarily a budget activity, Savina Winery is the only one in Herceg Novi and a recommended culinary stop in between cultural, coastal and nightlife activities.
Travel down the Adriatic shore with Budget Bucket List! From north to south, the Montenegrin coastal towns reviewed in brutal honesty:
Herceg Novi
The main advantage of Herceg Novi in its attempt to wow me, is that it was the very first stop of my 1-month-Montenegro-journey. Unlike the majority of holidaymakers I did not bypass this destination to hurry straight down to Kotor… quite gratefully so! Besides the undeniable charm of its old town, it combines this historical trait with a more modern city buzz and a sparkling nightlife. Once the go-to “beach” resort of Yugoslavia, it now quieted down a tad to make space for a more varied yet predominantly local crowd. Even though it doesn’t have any significant sand beaches (besides a tiny nude beach on the Croatian end and a lil’ sand-sweep in Igalo), it does provide a 7km boulevard full of life, street music and good vibrations. Instead of purely focusing on that standard dose of beach relaxation, Herceg Novi invites you to climb its “1001 stairs”, look up at the clock tower, visit Forte Mare, rent a kayak or dream away on the strains of the flute floating out of the monastery… and most importantly: to sample its wine! Yes, ladies and gentlemen, you came to the right country: Montenegro knows wine. I had yet to explore this gem of a nation in its full glory, but I already whole-heartedly signed up for it after sampling that first sublime glass. It doesn’t matter if you check off Herceg Novi on a quick daytrip, or (like me) spend a full 5-day-stretch… Savina Winery is an obligatory stop. If it isn’t their fresh variations of Chardonnays luring you in, the downright magnificent views to be enjoyed from their terrace while nibbling on a fancy snack platter will.*
* Reservations necessary - check the different tasting packages here. Although not necessarily a budget activity, Savina Winery is the only one in Herceg Novi and a recommended culinary stop in between cultural, coastal and nightlife activities.
Winery photos by Miles Watson.
The public bus from Herceg Novi to the (free) ferry to Kotor Bay costs €1,30 and leaves from the downtown bus stops (not the bus station where private companies charge higher rates).
Perast
From Herceg Novi, following down the coastline southwards (without taking the ferry), you pass by Bijela, Morinj, Lipci, and Strp, reproducing the overall atmosphere experienced earlier. However, once you hit Risan, a former fortified Illyrian town famous for its mosaics, the mood changes completely. All of a sudden you understand why everyone hurries breathlessly to Kotor Bay… skipping dinner and hastening straight to dessert. Superlatives have yet to be invented to describe the scenery of this divine span of Montenegro. The crystal-clear lagoon, in a tight embrace of dreamy mountains and a backdrop of one of the country’s prime national parks, is dotted by a colorful variety of villages and towns, all slightly deviating in character. The richest one of all being Perast, which more than anywhere else could stay true to its unique culture by stubbornly repelling Ottoman troops. Once it shook hands with the Republic of Venice in its ruthless fights against ongoing pirate attacks tormenting the Adriatic, its prosperity truly spiked. In fact, if someone told me they shipped a chunk of Venice and plunged it into the Boka Kotorska I would have probably taken their word for it… the similarities are undeniable. Needless to say, that’s a compliment. It takes only a short stroll to take in Perast’s wealth, not only represented by the 16 churches and 17 former palaces erected as status symbols by the most affluent families, but also by the overwhelming outlooks on the islets of St. George and Our Lady of the Rocks.
The public bus from Herceg Novi to the (free) ferry to Kotor Bay costs €1,30 and leaves from the downtown bus stops (not the bus station where private companies charge higher rates).
Perast
From Herceg Novi, following down the coastline southwards (without taking the ferry), you pass by Bijela, Morinj, Lipci, and Strp, reproducing the overall atmosphere experienced earlier. However, once you hit Risan, a former fortified Illyrian town famous for its mosaics, the mood changes completely. All of a sudden you understand why everyone hurries breathlessly to Kotor Bay… skipping dinner and hastening straight to dessert. Superlatives have yet to be invented to describe the scenery of this divine span of Montenegro. The crystal-clear lagoon, in a tight embrace of dreamy mountains and a backdrop of one of the country’s prime national parks, is dotted by a colorful variety of villages and towns, all slightly deviating in character. The richest one of all being Perast, which more than anywhere else could stay true to its unique culture by stubbornly repelling Ottoman troops. Once it shook hands with the Republic of Venice in its ruthless fights against ongoing pirate attacks tormenting the Adriatic, its prosperity truly spiked. In fact, if someone told me they shipped a chunk of Venice and plunged it into the Boka Kotorska I would have probably taken their word for it… the similarities are undeniable. Needless to say, that’s a compliment. It takes only a short stroll to take in Perast’s wealth, not only represented by the 16 churches and 17 former palaces erected as status symbols by the most affluent families, but also by the overwhelming outlooks on the islets of St. George and Our Lady of the Rocks.
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Kotor
Honestly, I was openly skeptical before making my way to Kotor. Every country has its sweetheart… usually sprouting out of a combination of aesthetic beauty and cultural relevance, but often resulting in an absolute overkill of visitors hunting after these exact features. I’m more of an underdog-supporter, trying to shine a spotlight on the lesser-known but not lesser-appealing destinations, and quite frankly also taking a secret pride in doing so. That went straight down the drain with Kotor though. This place deserves all the attention and recognition. As a matter of fact, without too much effort I smoothly surfed that wave of mass hysteria, loudly commenting on every ridiculously stunning detail and stopping every 2 meters to photograph everything around me.
Historically, Kotor served as an intermediary between the East and West, between foreign countries and its own hinterland, and between the coasts of the Adriatic and Mediterranean. It is a town that's tucked in between the waters and the mountains, connecting a variety of arts and influences. All this splendour seemed to have abruptly ended when a disastrous earthquake in 1979 destroyed the area and killed 13 of its citizens. However, with tremendous efforts Kotor was restored to its original glory, and with only a small chunk of the population returning afterwards, the focus shifted to tourism. Just as can be expected in a historical town of this calibre (be it not in its original state), it hosts a variety of museums and sights… but quite candidly, the town in itself is an open-air museum demanding all your available time here to allow for a proper appreciation. Side-note: If you feel like stretching the legs a little and walk the endless stairs up to the castle ruins (if only for the fantastic views), then make sure you do it free of charge.*
* In order to get to the free trail, get out of the city walls, go right, cross the bridge and go right again at the Voli supermarket. Walk until the very end of the road, with the water on your right side, until a trail starts zigzagging up. The trail is on Google Maps and Maps.me. Go up until you see a little house, go left in front of it to get a bit higher and bow back right again towards the castle walls. There’s a ladder to get up into the hole (at least when I was there). You can walk back via the official way (if you start from there it costs €8).
Honestly, I was openly skeptical before making my way to Kotor. Every country has its sweetheart… usually sprouting out of a combination of aesthetic beauty and cultural relevance, but often resulting in an absolute overkill of visitors hunting after these exact features. I’m more of an underdog-supporter, trying to shine a spotlight on the lesser-known but not lesser-appealing destinations, and quite frankly also taking a secret pride in doing so. That went straight down the drain with Kotor though. This place deserves all the attention and recognition. As a matter of fact, without too much effort I smoothly surfed that wave of mass hysteria, loudly commenting on every ridiculously stunning detail and stopping every 2 meters to photograph everything around me.
Historically, Kotor served as an intermediary between the East and West, between foreign countries and its own hinterland, and between the coasts of the Adriatic and Mediterranean. It is a town that's tucked in between the waters and the mountains, connecting a variety of arts and influences. All this splendour seemed to have abruptly ended when a disastrous earthquake in 1979 destroyed the area and killed 13 of its citizens. However, with tremendous efforts Kotor was restored to its original glory, and with only a small chunk of the population returning afterwards, the focus shifted to tourism. Just as can be expected in a historical town of this calibre (be it not in its original state), it hosts a variety of museums and sights… but quite candidly, the town in itself is an open-air museum demanding all your available time here to allow for a proper appreciation. Side-note: If you feel like stretching the legs a little and walk the endless stairs up to the castle ruins (if only for the fantastic views), then make sure you do it free of charge.*
* In order to get to the free trail, get out of the city walls, go right, cross the bridge and go right again at the Voli supermarket. Walk until the very end of the road, with the water on your right side, until a trail starts zigzagging up. The trail is on Google Maps and Maps.me. Go up until you see a little house, go left in front of it to get a bit higher and bow back right again towards the castle walls. There’s a ladder to get up into the hole (at least when I was there). You can walk back via the official way (if you start from there it costs €8).
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Other activities allowing you to make the most of your time in Kotor are a bicycle tour around the bay, hiking up the steep mountains towards Lovcen National Park, or getting out on the waters with a once-in-a-lifetime-boattrip. For the latter I recommend pre-booking a tour with Captain Ivan… because yes, he’s that popular. Unlike the pushy vendors swarming around Kotor’s harbour trying to lure you into their overly filled speedboats destroying the ecosystem of the bay’s marine life, I enjoyed the laidback rhythm and personal approach of Captain Ivan. A man who lives the Boka Kotorska, sharing an inexhaustible sequence of stories and anecdotes about the bay and its surroundings to whomever is lucky enough to listen. The boat tour includes a visit to Perast and the Lady of the Rocks Island, also considered the floating art gallery. The artificial island was created by people sinking stones and old sailing vessels around a bluff upon which the Mortešić brothers allegedly found a painting of Maria holding the baby Jesus. This practice is repeated yearly on the Fašinada celebration, extra rocks continuously being added as a local tradition. The most interesting artwork displayed in the on-site museum is one entirely made out of the hair of a woman waiting for her man to return from the sea. As you can witness the hair used turning white as the artwork progressed, you get an idea of the overall patience level of this particular lady. On your way there, also keep an eye out for St. George Island, which used to be nicknamed the “Island of the Dead” due to its prior function as Perast’s graveyard.
* Contact Captain Ivan via this link. His tours start either from Kotor or Dobrota / Ljuta (a cheaper and quieter place to stay outside of the Old Town) or another pick-up point on request.
** Read more about Kotor in this dedicated article!
* Contact Captain Ivan via this link. His tours start either from Kotor or Dobrota / Ljuta (a cheaper and quieter place to stay outside of the Old Town) or another pick-up point on request.
** Read more about Kotor in this dedicated article!
Tivat
Just how strongly that sudden splendour hits you when driving into Kotor Bay from either side, that’s sadly also how swiftly it fades away when going around the corner again to drive out of it via the Vrmac Peninsula. The inner side, with tiny 1-street-towns such as Muo* and Prčanj, is still equally spectacular, be it hidden in the shade for most of the day. However, once you hit the side of Tivat, you get abruptly pulled out of the Kotor-dream and pushed right back into the reality of normal life full of honking cars, chunky apartment buildings and a life we call modern but I won’t necessarily consider better. It changes promptly from a holiday destination into a place where people live and work. And fair enough, we need those places too. Sure, they have a coastline and a bunch of fancy resorts right on it, so if that’s your thing go ahead and enjoy it. It just isn’t for me.
What I personally enjoyed quite a bit is a quick visit to the Prevlaka Island, also referred to as the Island of Flowers. It can be reached by a narrow isthmus and contains the former Monastery of Archangel St. Michael, of which big parts were destroyed by the Republic of Venice due to rumors of a plague outbreak. Juicy detail: Recent research of the remains of the monks show that they were actually murdered by arsenic poisoning. After having served as a secluded holiday resort for the Yugoslavian military, more recently the island got a new injection of fame by the presence of actor Johnny Depp, who filmed a scene here for the movie Minamata.
* Muo has an interesting story tied to it: The Three Sisters Palace (Tre Sorelle) is associated with the legend of three sisters falling in love with the same handsome captain. They lived separately in their respective parts of the palace waiting for their beloved captain to return, but this never happened. Every time a sister died of old age, still waiting, their window in the palace was walled in by the others… until the last one died, with no one left to wall in the window anymore. Recently the new owner opened up the windows again, as such eliminating the proof that this might not have been a legend after all…
Just how strongly that sudden splendour hits you when driving into Kotor Bay from either side, that’s sadly also how swiftly it fades away when going around the corner again to drive out of it via the Vrmac Peninsula. The inner side, with tiny 1-street-towns such as Muo* and Prčanj, is still equally spectacular, be it hidden in the shade for most of the day. However, once you hit the side of Tivat, you get abruptly pulled out of the Kotor-dream and pushed right back into the reality of normal life full of honking cars, chunky apartment buildings and a life we call modern but I won’t necessarily consider better. It changes promptly from a holiday destination into a place where people live and work. And fair enough, we need those places too. Sure, they have a coastline and a bunch of fancy resorts right on it, so if that’s your thing go ahead and enjoy it. It just isn’t for me.
What I personally enjoyed quite a bit is a quick visit to the Prevlaka Island, also referred to as the Island of Flowers. It can be reached by a narrow isthmus and contains the former Monastery of Archangel St. Michael, of which big parts were destroyed by the Republic of Venice due to rumors of a plague outbreak. Juicy detail: Recent research of the remains of the monks show that they were actually murdered by arsenic poisoning. After having served as a secluded holiday resort for the Yugoslavian military, more recently the island got a new injection of fame by the presence of actor Johnny Depp, who filmed a scene here for the movie Minamata.
* Muo has an interesting story tied to it: The Three Sisters Palace (Tre Sorelle) is associated with the legend of three sisters falling in love with the same handsome captain. They lived separately in their respective parts of the palace waiting for their beloved captain to return, but this never happened. Every time a sister died of old age, still waiting, their window in the palace was walled in by the others… until the last one died, with no one left to wall in the window anymore. Recently the new owner opened up the windows again, as such eliminating the proof that this might not have been a legend after all…
Luštica Peninsula
Luckily, if you follow the coastline, Montenegro instantly makes up for the Tivat-disappointment with yet another peninsula. Luštica seems just a world away from everything you have seen in this country so far, both in scenery as in the suddenly absent tourist madness. Maybe not an entire world away, now I think about it… just a few countries westwards. Having visited the southern Algarve region of Portugal on a wide variety of occasions, I couldn’t stop myself from drawing parallels. Even the fruits I picked from the trees I have only found in this lush area of Portugal before. Rolling mountains, low faded green vegetation and swirling dusty roads cutting through it to lead you to yet unknown finds… Driving around here hits the feeling of summer, even though our exploration took place at the end of autumn. Make sure you make it all the way to the end to reach the dreamy bay of Rose, just on the side of the Kabala Fortress and granting views on Herceg Novi and Croatia. Another recommended stop is the lookout point to Mamula Island. This tiny uninhabited island, containing a fort built by the Austro-Hungarian general Lazarus von Mamula in 1853, was turned into a concentration camp during WWII by the fascist forces under Mussolini and became particularly notorious for its severe torture and cruelty towards prisoners. It used to be possible to visit this island, but unfortunately Montenegro’s government sold it to be turned into luxury beach resort, despite the objections of former prisoners.
Luckily, if you follow the coastline, Montenegro instantly makes up for the Tivat-disappointment with yet another peninsula. Luštica seems just a world away from everything you have seen in this country so far, both in scenery as in the suddenly absent tourist madness. Maybe not an entire world away, now I think about it… just a few countries westwards. Having visited the southern Algarve region of Portugal on a wide variety of occasions, I couldn’t stop myself from drawing parallels. Even the fruits I picked from the trees I have only found in this lush area of Portugal before. Rolling mountains, low faded green vegetation and swirling dusty roads cutting through it to lead you to yet unknown finds… Driving around here hits the feeling of summer, even though our exploration took place at the end of autumn. Make sure you make it all the way to the end to reach the dreamy bay of Rose, just on the side of the Kabala Fortress and granting views on Herceg Novi and Croatia. Another recommended stop is the lookout point to Mamula Island. This tiny uninhabited island, containing a fort built by the Austro-Hungarian general Lazarus von Mamula in 1853, was turned into a concentration camp during WWII by the fascist forces under Mussolini and became particularly notorious for its severe torture and cruelty towards prisoners. It used to be possible to visit this island, but unfortunately Montenegro’s government sold it to be turned into luxury beach resort, despite the objections of former prisoners.
Budva
Another comparable fail was made with regards to the picture-friendly Sveti Stefan, one of the most famous sights of Montenegro. This miniscule island, just a few meters off the beach, kicked off as the capital city of the Paštrovići community, which became a protectorate of the Republic of Venice in 1423. In the 15th century, the fortified village was built on it to defend against the Turks. It slowly became a haven for pirates of the Adriatic. During Communist Yugoslavia it was regrettably converted into an exclusive luxury resort and the remaining inhabitants were moved to the mainland. The resort was visited by many celebrities, including Elizabeth Taylor, Sophia Loren and Marilyn Monroe. As religion was forbidden during communism, one of the churches on it was turned into a casino. In 2007 Aman Resorts took over, still keeping it exclusive and forbidding everyone but the rich and famous to visit. A shame indeed!
Luckily, the town closest to this destination, Budva, is a reason to visit by itself… an open to all of us, rich or poor. That said, this destination does have a more upclass vibe to it, hosting designer shops and dotting the fancy harbour stretch with pricy bars and diners. As we were there in off-season, we managed to lock down a central 2-room apartment for only €16 per night though, so not all hope is gone for us budget backpackers! The experience of Budva is three-sided: On the one hand you can enjoy the modern hustle and bustle of a town, executed in a rather classy manner… on the other hand you can fully enjoy the massive stretches of actual sand beach, which will be the first ones if you travel from north to south. We kind of need a third hand to point out the Old Town, containing every inch of picturesque charm as you found elsewhere in Montenegro. Mind you, half if it requires an entrance price… which suits Budva.
* As everywhere, I tried to get a hike in exploring the Budva hinterland… but I won’t recommend it. For one, Maps.me is the worst navigation app in the Balkans when it comes to hiking, showing trails that either don’t exist or are entirely overgrown or inaccessible… which is also the case in Budva. This leaves you with a hike that contains 5% of actual fun trails, and 95% along busy asphalt roads leading you into near-dead-experiences at every blind corner. Montenegro is a hiking haven, but Budva isn’t the place to do it.
Another comparable fail was made with regards to the picture-friendly Sveti Stefan, one of the most famous sights of Montenegro. This miniscule island, just a few meters off the beach, kicked off as the capital city of the Paštrovići community, which became a protectorate of the Republic of Venice in 1423. In the 15th century, the fortified village was built on it to defend against the Turks. It slowly became a haven for pirates of the Adriatic. During Communist Yugoslavia it was regrettably converted into an exclusive luxury resort and the remaining inhabitants were moved to the mainland. The resort was visited by many celebrities, including Elizabeth Taylor, Sophia Loren and Marilyn Monroe. As religion was forbidden during communism, one of the churches on it was turned into a casino. In 2007 Aman Resorts took over, still keeping it exclusive and forbidding everyone but the rich and famous to visit. A shame indeed!
Luckily, the town closest to this destination, Budva, is a reason to visit by itself… an open to all of us, rich or poor. That said, this destination does have a more upclass vibe to it, hosting designer shops and dotting the fancy harbour stretch with pricy bars and diners. As we were there in off-season, we managed to lock down a central 2-room apartment for only €16 per night though, so not all hope is gone for us budget backpackers! The experience of Budva is three-sided: On the one hand you can enjoy the modern hustle and bustle of a town, executed in a rather classy manner… on the other hand you can fully enjoy the massive stretches of actual sand beach, which will be the first ones if you travel from north to south. We kind of need a third hand to point out the Old Town, containing every inch of picturesque charm as you found elsewhere in Montenegro. Mind you, half if it requires an entrance price… which suits Budva.
* As everywhere, I tried to get a hike in exploring the Budva hinterland… but I won’t recommend it. For one, Maps.me is the worst navigation app in the Balkans when it comes to hiking, showing trails that either don’t exist or are entirely overgrown or inaccessible… which is also the case in Budva. This leaves you with a hike that contains 5% of actual fun trails, and 95% along busy asphalt roads leading you into near-dead-experiences at every blind corner. Montenegro is a hiking haven, but Budva isn’t the place to do it.
Sutomore
To be completely honest with you, the only reason we decided to spend a night in Sutomore is because it only cost €8 a night for a private room. I’m talking off-season. Fair enough, as during that time of the year there is absolutely nothing to do here. There’s not even an Old Town making the visit somewhat worthwhile. I however don’t want to discredit this place by any means, as the set-up promises a vibrant summer beach scene. And indeed, the easy accessibility along the Adriatic Highway and the Belgrade-Bar Railway makes it a popular low-cost tourist destination, especially for Serbian youngsters in search of booze and sunshine, but without the budget to live it up in Budva. However, during my visit only some empty ice-cream wrappers were left, dancing in the wind on a forlorn coastline.
Bar
As the end of a famous panoramic train ride, I expected no less than splendour from this destination. Let’s just say that expectations weren’t met. The Port of Bar is the most prominent feature of the city, occupying 3,1km of the shoreline. That’s a great thumbs-up for the local economy, but not so much for the scenic coastal views. However, the good news is that Bar also has a historical old town, Stari Bar. It’s a bit of a detour, 4.5 km land inwards on the Londša Hill at the foot of Mount Rumija, but you may want to stop there shortly. Old this town certainly is, dating all the way back to the Neolithic era and inhabited, ruled and fought for by the Illyrians, Hellenists, Slavs, Byzantines, Venetians and Ottomans, who after three centuries eventually handed it over to Montenegro as part of the Treaty of Berlin after losing the Russo-Turkish War. This was also when Bar (named Antivari up until then) kinda lost its relevance… The predominantly Muslim population was suddenly not welcome anymore in the newly established Montengrin Orthodox State, and were either expelled or they left on their own initiative. The few constructions that remained after 1882, when a flash of lightning hit the Sultan Ahmed Mosque that rather inconveniently had explosives stored inside of it, were further devastated after an earthquake in 1979. So, what’s left? Not much, really, besides mentioned ruins… that you have to pay for to see, unless you’re okay with sneaking in from the right side of the entrance (just follow the wall). That said, the aqueduct and castle ruins are quite intriguing, and I also couldn’t help but notice the charm of the recently restored and rather photo-friendly streets… now stuffed with pointless souvenir shops.
To be completely honest with you, the only reason we decided to spend a night in Sutomore is because it only cost €8 a night for a private room. I’m talking off-season. Fair enough, as during that time of the year there is absolutely nothing to do here. There’s not even an Old Town making the visit somewhat worthwhile. I however don’t want to discredit this place by any means, as the set-up promises a vibrant summer beach scene. And indeed, the easy accessibility along the Adriatic Highway and the Belgrade-Bar Railway makes it a popular low-cost tourist destination, especially for Serbian youngsters in search of booze and sunshine, but without the budget to live it up in Budva. However, during my visit only some empty ice-cream wrappers were left, dancing in the wind on a forlorn coastline.
Bar
As the end of a famous panoramic train ride, I expected no less than splendour from this destination. Let’s just say that expectations weren’t met. The Port of Bar is the most prominent feature of the city, occupying 3,1km of the shoreline. That’s a great thumbs-up for the local economy, but not so much for the scenic coastal views. However, the good news is that Bar also has a historical old town, Stari Bar. It’s a bit of a detour, 4.5 km land inwards on the Londša Hill at the foot of Mount Rumija, but you may want to stop there shortly. Old this town certainly is, dating all the way back to the Neolithic era and inhabited, ruled and fought for by the Illyrians, Hellenists, Slavs, Byzantines, Venetians and Ottomans, who after three centuries eventually handed it over to Montenegro as part of the Treaty of Berlin after losing the Russo-Turkish War. This was also when Bar (named Antivari up until then) kinda lost its relevance… The predominantly Muslim population was suddenly not welcome anymore in the newly established Montengrin Orthodox State, and were either expelled or they left on their own initiative. The few constructions that remained after 1882, when a flash of lightning hit the Sultan Ahmed Mosque that rather inconveniently had explosives stored inside of it, were further devastated after an earthquake in 1979. So, what’s left? Not much, really, besides mentioned ruins… that you have to pay for to see, unless you’re okay with sneaking in from the right side of the entrance (just follow the wall). That said, the aqueduct and castle ruins are quite intriguing, and I also couldn’t help but notice the charm of the recently restored and rather photo-friendly streets… now stuffed with pointless souvenir shops.
Ulcinj
Montenegro might be small, but I still managed to spend over a month there. With a car. Because in case I forgot to mention it: Montenegro is also pretty damn spectacular and deserving of a slow and thorough appreciation. One of these places soon to be stored in the fond-memories-gallery is Ulcinj. Fair enough, it’s just a beach town… but with the largest beach in Montenegro: Velika Plaža stretches an impressive 16km all the way down towards Albania, passing Boljana Island. Using this beach as a base for a swim in November is by all means a pleasant and welcome surprise, and the perfect ending to an extraordinary stay in an extraordinary country. What made me like Ulcinj even more, is that there’s an adventurous little cliff hike all the way down from Velika Plaža to downtown Ulcinj… where you can find a selection of smaller beaches, as well as – you guessed it – an historical Old Town. Is it the best Old Town of Montenegro? Nope, but it’s there, so we have a full score on the see-beach-nature-culture-bingo.
Montenegro might be small, but I still managed to spend over a month there. With a car. Because in case I forgot to mention it: Montenegro is also pretty damn spectacular and deserving of a slow and thorough appreciation. One of these places soon to be stored in the fond-memories-gallery is Ulcinj. Fair enough, it’s just a beach town… but with the largest beach in Montenegro: Velika Plaža stretches an impressive 16km all the way down towards Albania, passing Boljana Island. Using this beach as a base for a swim in November is by all means a pleasant and welcome surprise, and the perfect ending to an extraordinary stay in an extraordinary country. What made me like Ulcinj even more, is that there’s an adventurous little cliff hike all the way down from Velika Plaža to downtown Ulcinj… where you can find a selection of smaller beaches, as well as – you guessed it – an historical Old Town. Is it the best Old Town of Montenegro? Nope, but it’s there, so we have a full score on the see-beach-nature-culture-bingo.
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Wow, you’ve did it! You travelled Montenegro! ... But did you, or did you travel the coast of Montenegro? In both scenarios, you’ve had one hell of a trip… but in case of the latter, buckle up for a wild ride as there’s so much more. Without discrediting the undeniable charm of the Montenegrin coastline, in my humble opinion it’s the glory of the inland mountains and national parks that truly bombards this country to the Balkan’s sweetheart. The reason why so little people make it out there, except for maybe a quick side trip to Durmitor National Park or Podgorica, is because local public transport doesn’t necessarily have as many regards for your valuable travel time as you have. Not just in Montenegro, but in the entire Balkan. We lived to tell the story and even with unlimited travel time on our hands as full-time backpackers, we felt the pain. To my great relieve, renting a car is rather straightforward and budget-friendly in Montenegro, especially when considering the small size of the country and as such the short distances, as well as the reasonable gas prices. After a 3-week road trip I can personally recommend Drive Montenegro, which offers friendly customer service and competitive prices. With their offices located at Podgorica Airport and Podgorica Centre you can immediately start your exploration within minutes after your arrival in Montenegro.
Wow, you’ve did it! You travelled Montenegro! ... But did you, or did you travel the coast of Montenegro? In both scenarios, you’ve had one hell of a trip… but in case of the latter, buckle up for a wild ride as there’s so much more. Without discrediting the undeniable charm of the Montenegrin coastline, in my humble opinion it’s the glory of the inland mountains and national parks that truly bombards this country to the Balkan’s sweetheart. The reason why so little people make it out there, except for maybe a quick side trip to Durmitor National Park or Podgorica, is because local public transport doesn’t necessarily have as many regards for your valuable travel time as you have. Not just in Montenegro, but in the entire Balkan. We lived to tell the story and even with unlimited travel time on our hands as full-time backpackers, we felt the pain. To my great relieve, renting a car is rather straightforward and budget-friendly in Montenegro, especially when considering the small size of the country and as such the short distances, as well as the reasonable gas prices. After a 3-week road trip I can personally recommend Drive Montenegro, which offers friendly customer service and competitive prices. With their offices located at Podgorica Airport and Podgorica Centre you can immediately start your exploration within minutes after your arrival in Montenegro.
Photo by Miles Watson Photography.
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