Saint Lucia
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Saint Lucia was my 7th Caribbean island in a row, and one could argue that the travel fatigue had properly kicked in. Too much of the same recipe, no matter how delicious the ingredients, becomes rather stale. The good elements (snorkelling/swimming in crystal clear waters, rainforest hikes and white beaches) just play on repeat like a broken record, while the bad elements (the overwhelming, ever-drenching heat, lack of proper trails, lack of museums and concrete cultural heritage, high prices and being charged for everything) just started to straight-out annoy me. It didn’t help that mild sea sickness shook hands with a stomach flu, and during my entire stay here I wasn’t able to eat anything without immediately barfing it out after, weakening me down by the day.
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I noticed that I lost my excitement for getting into the water. I was literally staying on a sailboat and recently bought my snorkel equipment, but I just couldn’t be bothered for the so-many’th time. Enough is enough. I couldn’t sample the local cuisine, so that travel element was eliminated. There are some interesting short hikes, specifically the two UNESCO Titon Peaks, the mighty symbol of the country, which make for a truly captivating sea entry. Yet, at 50 bucks a head (USD - per peak!) for a lousy 3-5km well-marked route, accompanied by an obligated guide for crying out loud, all initial interest is instantly wiped off the table. I don’t mind paying a reasonable entry fee if it supports nature preservation and enables the creation of proper trails and facilities, but this is just out of balance. In fact, I noticed that literally every activity on this island seems to come with a disproportionate price tag, incl. forest entries… activities that are in fact comparable with other destinations in the world and even in the direct region with incomparable charges (can’t count the amount of natural mud baths I took around the globe or the number of rainforests I’ve explored, so we can’t really speak of unique once-in-a-lifetime-opportunities here). I guess it’s worth it if you simply fly in and out for a tropical holiday break, just ready to blow your freshly-earned vacation savings on those scarce weeks available before being dragged back into “the grind”
… but if you’re in it for the long haul, or if you intend on island-hopping your way around the stripe of mini-countries situated here, you might gain similar or better experiences on the islands southwards for less or no money.
… but if you’re in it for the long haul, or if you intend on island-hopping your way around the stripe of mini-countries situated here, you might gain similar or better experiences on the islands southwards for less or no money.
By all means, I recommend exploring the less-developed east side of the island on foot, if you can bear the oppressive heat. Civilization suddenly disappears and more interesting landscapes reveal themselves, as seen in the photos above.
I realize I am spoilt and privileged to have travelled so extensively and therefore fail to be thoroughly impressed with Saint Lucia. At the same time, exactly because I have so much travel material to compare it to, it also gives a more realistic image of how well this destination is doing on a more global scale. By all means, this remains a personal evaluation, written by someone who highly values thorough hikes and outdoor adventures (best done in a moderate climate), cultural and historical sightseeing (museums, art, theatre) and a budget-sensitive approach. As such, I’m at the opposing end of Saint Lucia’s target group. Your travel interests might be fulfilled with drinking rum punch on a perfect bounty beach, which would mean this is your happy spot. But for me it was time to wrap it up and move onto an entirely different experience (a 9000-km cycle adventure through Canada!). Re-ignite that flame.
I realize I am spoilt and privileged to have travelled so extensively and therefore fail to be thoroughly impressed with Saint Lucia. At the same time, exactly because I have so much travel material to compare it to, it also gives a more realistic image of how well this destination is doing on a more global scale. By all means, this remains a personal evaluation, written by someone who highly values thorough hikes and outdoor adventures (best done in a moderate climate), cultural and historical sightseeing (museums, art, theatre) and a budget-sensitive approach. As such, I’m at the opposing end of Saint Lucia’s target group. Your travel interests might be fulfilled with drinking rum punch on a perfect bounty beach, which would mean this is your happy spot. But for me it was time to wrap it up and move onto an entirely different experience (a 9000-km cycle adventure through Canada!). Re-ignite that flame.
The above describes my experience in and opinion about Saint Lucia. For an unbiased and straightforward overview of the St. Lucia facts and tourist info, check this:
Quick Budget Fact Overview
Saint Lucia Facts
Short History Recap
1501: St. Lucia sighted by Columbus. 1635: French colony. ’60: France signs treaty with indigenous Carib people. 1814: France cedes St. Lucia to Britain following the Treaty of Paris. Britain proclaims the island a crown colony and brings in African slaves to work on the sugar cane plantations. ’34: Slavery abolished. ‘71-1956: Member of Leeward Islands Federation. 1924: St. Lucia granted representative government. ’36: Given a constitution providing for a majority of elected representatives in the legislative council. ’51: Voting rights. ‘58-’62: Member of the Federation of the West Indies. ’64: Ceases sugar cane production. ’67: Fully self-governing in internal affairs, Britain remains in charge of external matters and defence. ’79: Independence. ’92: Derek Walcott wins Nobel Prize for literature. 2002: Tropical Storm Lili destroys about half of the banana crop. 03: Parliament amends constitution → replace oath of allegiance to British monarch to loyalty to St Lucians. ’04: Volcanic Pitons Peaks declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. ’14: Law criminalising gang membership.
Saint Lucia Facts
- Capital: Castries
- Language: Saint Lucian French Creole / “Kweyol” / “Patois” , English
- Population: ± 179,700
- Sq km: ± 617
- Currency: East Caribbean Dollar ($ - XCD)
- Electricity Outlet: G / 240 V / 50 Hz. Check here.
- Emergency Phone: 999 (police), 911 (ambulance), +1 758 455 6100 (fire).
- Visa: Needed for some countries. Find a list here. Upon arrival you’re forced to pay for some local health insurance, and there’s an exit tax for everyone (generally included in commercial flights, but to be paid separately when leaving by ferry) .
- Vaccinations: Hep-A, Hep-B, Tetanus (recommended, not mandatory).
- Climate: Tropical Rainforest Climate (Af). There are only two seasons: Dry (Dec-May) & Wet (Jun-Nov). Hurricane season runs from June until November.
- High season: December – April.
Short History Recap
1501: St. Lucia sighted by Columbus. 1635: French colony. ’60: France signs treaty with indigenous Carib people. 1814: France cedes St. Lucia to Britain following the Treaty of Paris. Britain proclaims the island a crown colony and brings in African slaves to work on the sugar cane plantations. ’34: Slavery abolished. ‘71-1956: Member of Leeward Islands Federation. 1924: St. Lucia granted representative government. ’36: Given a constitution providing for a majority of elected representatives in the legislative council. ’51: Voting rights. ‘58-’62: Member of the Federation of the West Indies. ’64: Ceases sugar cane production. ’67: Fully self-governing in internal affairs, Britain remains in charge of external matters and defence. ’79: Independence. ’92: Derek Walcott wins Nobel Prize for literature. 2002: Tropical Storm Lili destroys about half of the banana crop. 03: Parliament amends constitution → replace oath of allegiance to British monarch to loyalty to St Lucians. ’04: Volcanic Pitons Peaks declared a UNESCO World Heritage Site. ’14: Law criminalising gang membership.
FREE Sights / Activities
PAID Sights / Activities
Evening Entertainment
Good info here.
Local Festivals
More suggestions here.
- Sights: Immaculate Conception Church, Soufriere Bay, Cape Moule a Chique Lighthouse, Morne Fortune Viewpoint, Inniskilling Monument.
- Hikes / Nature: Mount Gimie, Mount Pimard.
- Beaches: Anse Mamim, Rodney Bay, Marigot Bay, Anse Chastanet, Anse Cochon, Anse La Raye, Grande Anse, Anse l’Ivrogne, Reduit Beach, Jalousie Beach, Vigie Beach, Sandy Beach, La Toc Beach, Rudy John Beach Park, Malabar Beach, Laborie Beach, Choc Bay.
PAID Sights / Activities
- Sights: Balenbouche Estate Heritage Site.
- Museums: Pigeon Island Museum and Interpretive Centre.
- Hikes / Nature: Pitons Volcanic Peaks (UNESCO – expensive entry!): Petit Piton Trail, Gros Piton Trail, En Bas Suit Trail, Aqua Dulce Trail (bike), Pigeon Island National Park, Grand Eden Estate, La Soufriere Drive-In Volcano, St. Lucia Rainforest, Diamond Falls Botanical Gardens, Diamond Waterfalls, Toraille Waterfall, Superman Falls, Piton Falls, Latille Falls, Errand Falls, Millet Bird Sanctuary, Castries Waterworks Forest Reserve, Maria Island Nature Reserve, Des Cartiers Rainforest, Edmund Forest Reserve.
- Other: Pigeon Island (charges admission – Fort Rodney on it), Sulphur Springs, New Jerusalem Mineral Baths (man made), Watersports such as snorkelling, scuba diving, kayaking, sailing, kiteboarding. Antillia Brewing Company, Beausejour Cricket Ground.
Evening Entertainment
- Nightlife Areas: Rodney Bay, Gros Islet Street Party (Friday).
Good info here.
Local Festivals
- Saint Lucia Jazz Festival – Apr-May
- Fishermen’s Feast / Fete Peche – June-28
- Saint Lucia Carnaval – June-July
- Mercury Fest – Summer
- Roots & Soul – Aug
- La Rose Flower Festival - Aug
- Saint Lucia Dive Fest - Sep
- Creole Heritage Month - Oct
- Festival of Lights – Dec
More suggestions here.
Budget Bites
Sleep Cheap
- Main Supermarket Chains: Massy. The rest are mainly independent shops.
- Local Dishes: Lambi (conch fish), Green Figs and Saltfish, Bouyon / Boullion, Smoked Herring and Breadfruit, Black Pudding, Pepper Pot (meat combo, incl. cow feet and ox tail), Callaloo Soup, Cow Heel Soup, Fried Plantains, Accra (fish fritters), Pemmie (porridge in banana leaf), Cassava Bread, Bakes (deep-fried cookies), Avocado Balls, Banana Bread.
- The Veg Situation: Going veg is a bit complicated in Saint Lucia, as vegetarianism and veganism is not a part of their culture. However, there are plenty of fruits and some national dishes that are accidentally vegan or vegetarian. Veg restaurants can be found here. Local veg dishes: Callaloo Soup (check for potential meat additions), Fried Plantains, Accra (fish fritters), Cassava Bread, Bakes (deep-fried cookies), Avocado Balls.
- National Drink: Rum, Rum Punch, Piton Beer, Cocoa Tea.
Sleep Cheap
- Hostels / Hotels / Guesthouses: If you intend to visit the Caribbean islands, make sure to have enough funds available. None of the islands is cheap here, and also Saint Lucia is notoriously expensive. Expect prices comparable or higher to Western Europe. When it comes to accommodation, without being paid to say so, I love Booking.com: They have the biggest selection, are transparent about the final price and have an efficient search engine tailored to your specific needs (cheapest first!). If you use it often enough, Genius-discounts are applied. Agoda is often not transparent about prices, adding a lot of additional costs in the last booking-step. Opodo is another decent option. Air BnB is not what it used to be, price-wise, but I noticed that within the Caribbean they have cheaper deals than hotels. Especially considering the often high tourist tax that as added to commercial accommodation (Air Bnb has cleaning fees and commission, but it is still much lower). Writer’s choice: I slept on a sailboat as crew.
- Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost, but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate review explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored). The Couchsurfing community in Saint Lucia is small (because the country is small), but it exists.
- Wild Camping: seems to be legal, although official information is unavailable. That said, it is rather uncommon here, so I recommend stealthiness.
Mama Said
Transport
Next?
- Safety: Saint Lucia has a reputation of being one of the more dangerous islands in this Caribbean strip. However, incidents only affect a small percentage of the visitors. Practice common vigilance, don’t leave valuables unattended or unlocked and don’t wander off in quiet streets at night.
- Tap Water: is safe to drink.
- Traffic drives on the left side of the road.
- Unfortunately, homosexuality is still illegal in this country. Stealthiness is required.
- The best credit/debit card for traveling is Wise, as they use the live conversion rates with minimal exchange fees. Wise also has the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. Revolut is comparable, but they have higher exchange fees in the weekend and less wallet-options. Also, you can only wire money to Revolut in the currency you opened the account with, whereas Wise has IBAN’s from a wide variety of currencies, so you don’t have to pay a double exchange fee. Most local ATMs charge a fee for cash outs, but card payments are generally accepted everywhere.
- Simcard: Buying a local simcard is usually cheaper than using your international roaming option, although keep in the Caribbean prices for sims and data are incredibly high (way more expensive than Europe, for example) so it might be worth comparing in advance or check if there are better e-sim deals suitable for your phone. The main providers are Digicel and Flow. Digicel has a coverage from Grenada up to St. Lucia. As usual, never buy a sim at the airport, where you’ll be ripped off with expensive tourist packages. Instead, buy it in the phone stores in the cities. A passport must be shown. More info on eSims here.
Transport
- Walking: St. Lucia is very small and within the separate towns it is easy to get around on foot. Walking from town to town is relatively doable too (depending on your level of fitness), but keep in mind that the heat can be overwhelming and there are generally no pedestrian lanes alongside the main roads.
- Cycling: Cycling is a good option to get around. However, keep in mind that local traffic might not always be mindful towards cyclists and there is little space for cyclists. They also drive on the left side of the road!
- Public Transport: There is no organized public transport, but minivans randomly drive around on different routes and pick up and drop off passengers anywhere along the way. They usually drive recklessly and the vans are overfull, but it kind of works. You pay in cash. It’s best to verify the numbers, routes and fares with fellow waiting passengers, as there is no clear system or app where you can trace this information down.
- Taxi / Uber: Authorized taxis can be recognized by a light blue number plate with a TX prefix. Local taxi apps include Uber, Allez and Paycab (although this is variable and rapidly changing).
- Ferry: Surprisingly enough, there are hardly any ferries in between the Caribbean islands, which makes traveling here complicated and costly. Your options are flying in (very expensive) or arriving on a private boat (mind the extra entry and exit fees for the boat, on top of the fees you have to pay for yourself). The stretch from St. Lucia up to Guadeloupe is an exception, with one ferry service between the four islands: Express des Iles. As they have a monopoly, prices are very high for poor service and a run-down ferry… but it’s an option!
- Train: There are no trains in Saint Lucia.
- Car Rental: This is not a cheap endeavour in Saint Lucia, but it is available. You will be limited to one island.
- Airport: Hewanorra International Airport (UVF; IATA; ICAO; TLPL) and George F.L. Charles Airport Airport (SLU).
- Hitchhiking: is relatively safe and very easy in Saint Lucia. The symbol is not a thumb up, but rather waving and pointing in the direction you want to go to. More info on hitchhiking in the Caribbean can be found on Hitchwiki.
Next?
- International Destinations Close By: Saint Vincent and the Grenadines, Grenada, Barbados, Martinique, Dominica, Trinidad and Tobago, Venezuela.
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