Martinique

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In the heat (literally) of a Caribbean fatigue, there’s suddenly Martinique. In a long strip of absolutely stunning, but also rather monotonous islands all circling around one major theme: the beach, Martinique caters to a need I desperately needed fulfilled: hiking & culture… While still having a wide range of idyllic white bounty beaches for those in search of ‘em!
 
 
Hike Martinique

Hiking has been a challenge in the Caribbean. First of all, because of the inhumane heat and humidity. Just sitting on a chair in the shade will hardly prevent the gushes of sweat pouring out of all your pores… imagine doing actual full-on physical exercise right under the unforgiving sun. You must really have an intense passion combined with mild insanity to still go for it, willing to take the continuous beating. Second of all, because there are hardly any proper hiking trails available (be ready for some hardcore bushwacking with snakes, tarantulas and scorpions hiding under the overgrowth)… and when there finally are some trails, you’re generally forced to pay an entrance price and a guide, no matter how easy and straightforward the hike usually is. Enter Martinique, an island swarming with proper trails and not a single person holding his hand up at the entry. Fair enough, the warmth can’t be escaped, so be ready to royally squirt with sunscreen and carry at least 2-3 litres of water per person, as you seem to sweat out double what you drink.
 
I’m really quite excited about the great variety of routes on this (in comparison with its neighbours) rather large island. So let me share what’s available:

  • Mount Pelee: Main hike of Martinique located in Parc Natural Regional de la Martinique, leading up to a 1397m high active volcano (last eruption 1932). You can follow the Grand Riviere Route (8km 1-way / 1300m) with starting point at either Habitation Beausejour or Macouba, the Grande Savane Trail (3.5km 1-way / 717m), or the l’Aileron Trail (2.5km 1-way / 618m) heading up, listed from most difficult to easiest.
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  • Pitons du Carbet: Just like Saint Lucia, Martinique has some “pitons” of its own. And they’re a UNESCO World Heritage Site as well, together with the Pelee Forest! Located in the north, this collection of volcanic domes (all part of a single volcano) are considered to be the oldest on the island. The peaks include the Piton Lacroix (1197m), Piton de l'Alma (1105m), Morne Piquet (1160m), Piton Boucher (1070m) and the Piton Dumauzé (1109m). There are multiple trails in this area, of which these are most popular: Caplet to Fonds-St-Denis (3.5km 1-way / 200m), the Piton Lacroix Trail (2km 1-way / 1500m), Canal de Beauregard (4km 1-way / flat), Demarche to Plateau Concorde (3km 1-way / 300m), Morne Rose to Saint Cyr (1.5km 1-way / 150m), Circuit de Rabuchon Loop Trail (6km 1-way / 400m), An Ba So (1.6km 1-way / 100m), and Circuit d’Absalon Loop Trail (4km 1-way / 340m).
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  • Savane des Petrifications: Among the humid rainforest, there’s suddenly a desert! The area of the Petrification Savannah. The area contains several trails, which you can mix and match into a distance that suits you. It can be easily combined into a loop connecting also Anse Tribaud Beach and a part of Trace des Caps.

  • Trace des Caps: A well-known coastal hiking area of Martinique, with a total trail length of 27km (yet, only 400m elevation gain). The trail is rather popular due to its minimal difficulty, yet away-from-it-all, more savage character.
 
  • Le Tombolo: Martinique definitely is Frencher than French, with even it’s own Mont Saint Michel. Not so much of a hike, but a short and unusual stroll right through the sea during low tide allowing you to walk to an island. Moses, eat your heart out.
 
  • Morne Larcher: A short, but steep hike up one of the larger peaks of the island (still only 478m though), granting great views on the south-eastern coast. You can start from several locations, such as Anses-d’Arlet, Petit Anse, Anse Cafard, Le Diamant or Quamalon and mix and match with a different return route.
 
  • Piton de Creve Coeur: Another short trail mounting a volcanic peak, leaving from Saint Anne. Find here the short and long version. 
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  • Presqu’ile de la Caravelle: Translated “almost an island.” They’re not wrong, we are indeed dealing with a peninsula. The Presqu’ile Provincial Park (at the very end of the peninsula) is a lush and wild nature area that has a few trails crossing through it. You can drive through the trail head, or you can start hiking as early as in La Trinité, as there are various trails taking you there (adding a considerable distance). Maps.me is a good guideline at this location.
  • Boucle du Vauclin: A 6.5km peninsula loop originating in the Cateau Paille district of La Vauclin, leading you passed coves, mangroves and fishing villages. 

  • La Trace des Jesuites: A 5km path once taken by the Jesuit monks in the 17th and 18th century, leading you through rainforest and along (and over) the Lorrain river bed. 
 
  • Foret Coeur Bouliki: A nearly 1500 hectare forest around Saint Joseph, having the River Blanche cutting straight through it. There is a variety of trails, but I’ll share this option for some potential inspiration.
 

… and if you’re into waterfalls: Cascade de Fonds Nicolas, Canal de Beauregard, Cascade de la Riviere Couleuvre Trail, Cascade du Saut du Gendarme, Cascade Absalon, Cascade de la Riviere Carbe, Cascade d’Anba So A Fond Lahaye, Cascade Trou Lambe, Fontaine Didier, Kai Dany and Source Attila. Most have trails of varying length leading to them.

                                                       
For paid, more manicured forested areas and botanical gardens, scroll down in the Quick Budget Fact Overview to the Paid Activities section.
 
 
Culture in Fort-de-France
 
I mentioned in earlier blogs that Central America is interesting in many regards, travel-wise, but not in being capable of offering intriguing cities. I’m sorry to say it, but I took a full year to travel the entire stretch of Panama until Mexico and have visited a chunk of the Caribbean islands since, and there’s not a single capital city I’d whole-heartedly recommend. South America has some decent ones… I name of course a Buenos Aires, potentially Quito, and I could personally really appreciate the casual, borderline grungy ambience of Bogota. Yet, when envisioning the Central American capitals all that comes to mind is chaos, pollution and hectic traffic jams. Just places I overall rather not be. There are some enjoyable non-capital-cities available (Granada, Antigua, Copan, Leon, Suchitoto), but they all have one thing in common. Wanna guess? Uhuh, they’re colonial. The Spanish might have done little good to the local communities, spreading murder, disease and disaster… but boy, can they build. Same same but different when it comes to Martinique, which didn’t just develop to what it is today under French colonialism… it’s still France! That’s right, 6785km away from France you won’t be able to count Martinique (or Guadeloupe / St. Martin / St. Barthelemy) as a new country, you’re allegedly re-entering good ol’ France. Euros and everything! 
That does mean that Fort-de-France on one side has that European colonial beauty (I’m sorry, there’s just no way around it: Europeans tend to nail urban architecture), whereas being blessed with a flawless public transportation system (schedules, google maps route planning and aircon), lower prices (mind you: Europe is actually cheaper than the expensive Caribbean islands) and French bakeries standing alongside Caribbean food stalls. I went in almost accidentally, expecting nothing, and I left with a handful of exciting stories to share with anyone caring to listen.
 

Scroll down to the Quick Budget Fact Overview – Activities section for an overview of sights and museums in Fort-de-France and direct surroundings.
Quick Budget Fact Overview


Martinique Facts

  • Capital: Fort-de-France (although it’s French territory)
  • Language: French / French Creole here
  • Population: ± 376,500
  • Sq km: ± 1128
  • Currency: Euro (€ - EUR)
  • Electricity Outlet: C, D & E / 220 V / 50 Hz. Check here.
  • Emergency Phone: 112 (general), 17 (police), 15 (ambulance), 18 (fire).
  • Visa: Needed for some countries. More info here. Note that even though Martinique is part of France, it’s not part of the Schengen area.
  • Vaccinations: Hep-A, Hep-B, Typhoid, Yellow Fever (recommended, not mandatory).
  • Climate: Tropical Rainforest Climate (Af). There are only two seasons: Dry (Dec-May) & Wet (Jun-Nov). Hurricane season runs from June until November.
  • High season: December – April.


Short History Recap
 
1st AD: Arawaks (from Central America). 11th century: Caribs from Venezuelan coast arrive. 1502: Columbus. 1635: French start colonizing (after being driven off St Kitts & Nevis by England). Caribs resist French. ’74: Dutch attempt to conquer Martinique. 1693-1815: Attacked & occupied several times by England. After Napoleonic Wars (1794-1815) traded back to France as part of the post-war settlement. 1848: Following slave rebellions and campaigns of abolitionists, the French government abolishes slavery in the French West Indies. 1902: Mont Pelée erupts → St. Pierre destroyed and 30,000 people killed → Fort-de-France capital. ’46: French National Assembly votes to transform colony into overseas department of France. ‘62 - the pro-independence OJAM, Organisation de la jeunesse anticolonialiste de la Martinique, is formed.) However the independence movement loses momentum as Martinique's economy falters in the 1970s. 2009: French Caribbean general strikes against cost of living. ’10: Inhabitants vote to change Martinique's status to that of a "special collectivity" within French Republic.
FREE Sights / Activities

  • Sights: Memorial de l’Anse Caffard, Schoelcher Library, Louis Cathedral, Balata Cathedral, Route de la Trace (road), Palais de Justice, Theatre of St. Pierre.
  • Museums: Memorial de la Catastrophe de 1902.
  • Hikes / Nature: Savane des Petrifications, Le Tombolo, Diamond Rock, Montagne Pelee, Presqu’ile de la Caravelle, Fontaine Didier, Canal de Beauregard, Cascade de la Riviere Couleuvre Trail, Cascade du Saut du Gendarme, Cascade Absalon, Cascade de la Riviere Carbet, La Cascade d’Anba So A Fond Lahaye, Morne Larcher, Parcours de Sante, Kai Dany, Cascade de Fonds Nicolas, Cascade Trou Lambe, Pitons du Carbet, Source Attila, Piton de Creve Coeur, Parc Natural Regional de la Martinique, Circuit de la Boucle du Vauclin, Randonnée de la Trace des Jesuites, La Trace des Caps, Foret Coeur Bouliki.
  • Beaches: Plage des Salines, Fonds Blancs (reef), Anse Dufour, Anse Couleuvre, Anse Figuier, La Pointe Marin, Anse Noire, Grand Anse d’Arlet, Anse Michel, La Baignoire de Josephine, Anse Mitan, Petit Anse, Pointe du Bout, Anse Mabouya, Anse a l’Ane, Anse Ceron, Anse Trabaud, Cap Macre, Anse Turin, Plage Pointe Faula, Pointe Borgnese, Plage de Dizac, Anse Corps de Garde, Anse Meunier, La Breche, Anse Caritan Beach, Plage des Raisiniers, l’Anse Azerot, Plage de Madiana, La Francaise, Anse Grosse Roche, Anse Belleville.

                             
PAID Sights / Activities

  • Sights: Habitation Clement, La Savane des Esclaves, Habitation Clement, Habitation La Salle, An Mao Jardin Paysager & Historique, Fort Saint-Louis, Le Domaine de Fonds Saint Jaques, Chateau Dubuc, Habitation Pecoul, Plantation Beauvallon.
  • Museums: Banana Museum, Musee de la Pagerie, La Musee de la Mer, House of Sugar, Musee Departemental de la Martinique, Ecomusee de Martinique, Fondation Clement, Science and Earth Discovery Centre, Centre d’Interpretation du Patrimoine Paul Gauguin, Musee Regional d’Histoire et d’Ethnographie, Espace Museographique Bernard David, DoME Martinique, Maison Regionale des Volcans.
  • Hikes / Nature: Les Gorges de la Falaise, Jardin de Balata, Le Jardin de la Montagne, Domaine d’Emeraude, Le Morne Gommier, Le Jardin de Bonneville, Serenade des Sauveurs.
  • Other: Distillerie JM, Distillerie Depaz, Distellerie La Favorite, Rhum Saint James, Habitation Saint Etienne, Distillerie Maison la Mauny, Distillerie Rhum A1710, Distillerie Hardy, Rhums Baie des Tresors, Distillerie Braud et Quenneson, Ranch Jack, Ranch Anse Macabou.
 
 
Evening Entertainment

  • Nightlife Areas: Fort de France.
  • Theatres: Theatre Aime Cesaire, l’Autre Bord Compagnie, Centre Culturel du Bourg du Lamentin, Teyat Otonom Mawon, Chasseur Antoine Francois, Municipal Theatre, Centre Culturel Marce, Martinique Comedy Club.
 

Local Festivals

  • Carnaval – Jan-Feb
  • Fête de l'Abolition de l'Esclavage en Martinique - May
  • Fete de la Musique - Jun
  • Festival Culturel de Fort-de-France - Jul
  • Baccha Festival – Aug
  • Journee Internationale du Creole - Oct
  • Martinique Jazz Festival – Nov-Dec
  • Fete du Rhum - Dec


More suggestions here.
Budget Bites

  • Main Supermarket Chains: Carrefour, Ecomax, Leader Price, Auchan.
  • Local Dishes: Lambi (conch fish), Accra (fish fritters), Boudin (sausage), Chatrou (octopus), La Matatou de Crabe (crab), Dorade Grilee (grilled sea bream), Curry Terrine, Poulet Boucane (BBQ marinated chicken), La Feroce d’Avocat (salt fish avocado), Blanc Manger au Coco (dessert), Trempage (codfish stew soaked bread).
  • The Veg Situation: Going veg is not too complicated in Martinique, as most supermarkets are stocked straight from France. Veg restaurants can be found here.
  • National Drink: Rum, Ti Punch (rum), Punch Coco.
 

Sleep Cheap
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  • Hostels / Hotels / Guesthouses: If you intend to visit the Caribbean islands, make sure to have enough funds available. None of the islands are cheap here, and also Martinique is rather expensive. Expect prices comparable or higher to Western Europe. When it comes to accommodation, without being paid to say so, I love Booking.com: They have the biggest selection, are transparent about the final price and have an efficient search engine tailored to your specific needs (cheapest first!). If you use it often enough, Genius-discounts are applied. That said, tourist taxes are very high in the Caribbean, but those can be avoided by booking something via Air BnB. Even though still very expensive, Air BnB has cheaper deals than hotels in the Caribbean (Air Bnb has cleaning fees and commission, but it is still much lower). Writer’s choice: I stayed in Air BnB accommodation.
  • Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost, but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate review explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored). The Couchsurfing community in Martinique is small (because the country is small), but it exists. However, I didn’t manage to get many replies here.  
  • Wild Camping: seems to be legal, although official information is unavailable. That said, it is rather uncommon here, so I recommend stealthiness. 


Mama Said

  • Safety: Martinique has the reputation of being one of the safest islands in the Caribbean. Of course, always practice general caution.
  • Tap Water: is safe to drink. 
  • Traffic drives on the right side of the road, unlike the islands south of Martinique.
  • Unfortunately, homosexuality is still illegal in this country. Stealthiness is required.
  • The best credit/debit card for traveling is Wise, as they use the live conversion rates with minimal exchange fees. Wise also has the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. Revolut is comparable, but they have higher exchange fees in the weekend and less wallet-options. Also, you can only wire money to Revolut in the currency you opened the account with, whereas Wise has IBAN’s from a wide variety of currencies, so you don’t have to pay a double exchange fee.  Most local ATMs charge a fee for cash outs, but card payments are generally accepted everywhere.
  • Simcard: Public Wi-Fi is hardly available in the Caribbean, and when it is, it’s usually not working. Buying a local simcard is usually cheaper than using your international roaming option, although keep in the Caribbean prices for sims and data are incredibly high (way more expensive than Europe, for example) so it might be worth comparing in advance or check if there are better e-sim deals suitable for your phone. The main providers are Digicel, Orange, Airalo and La Poste Caraibe. The latter is the cheapest. As usual, never buy a sim at the airport, where you’ll be ripped off with expensive tourist packages. Instead, buy it in the phone stores in the cities.
Transport

  • Walking: Walking is a good option within the separate cities and villages. Walking from town to town is relatively doable too (depending on your level of fitness), but keep in mind that the heat can be overwhelming and there are often no pedestrian lanes alongside the main roads.
  • Cycling: Cycling could be an option to get around. However, keep in mind that local traffic might not always be mindful towards cyclists and there is little space to drive on.
  • Public Transport: There is an efficient and timely bus system in Martinique, consisting of big buses and minibuses. You can use Google Maps for navigation around the main buses. For the big buses tickets need to be bought in advance at some of the bus stops, or you can tap your debit/credit card upon entry. The small buses accept cash payments. Overcrowded minibuses (with TC number plate: Taxi Collectif) also randomly drive around on different routes and pick up and drop off passengers anywhere along the way, often even changing the route based on passengers’ requests. This system is less organized, without fixed schedules.
  • Taxi / Uber: Are extremely expensive in Martinique. There is also a 40% surcharge for nights, Sundays or holidays. Taxi apps that work in Martinique include 972 Taxi and Coco.
  • Ferry: Surprisingly enough, there are hardly any ferries in between the Caribbean islands, which makes traveling here complicated and costly. Your options are flying in (very expensive) or arriving on a private boat (mind the extra entry and exit fees for the boat, on top of the fees you have to pay for yourself). The stretch from St. Lucia up to Guadeloupe is an exception, with one ferry service between the four islands: Express des Iles. As they have a monopoly, prices are very high for poor service and a run-down ferry… but it’s an option! Martinique also has short-distance ferries between Fort de France, Pointe du Bout, Anse Mitan and Anse a l’Ane.
  • Train: There are no trains in Martinique.
  • Car Rental: This is not a cheap endeavour in Martinique, but it is available.
  • Airport: Martinique Aime Cesaire International Airport (FDF – Bus A connects airport with Fort-de-France).
  • Hitchhiking: is relatively easy in Martinique, locals are used to it. More info on hitchhiking in the Caribbean can be found on Hitchwiki. 


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