Epirus Region
Not in the story-mood? Scroll down for the Quick Budget Fact Overview: an itemized information summary of Epirus! ↓
When I mention Greece, you perhaps unwittingly think about the ancient temples and the white-and-blue villages scattered on sun-drenched islands… places such as Mykonos, Athens and Sparta. Not many minds instantly wander off to the rugged region of Epirus, full of rustic villages crawling up the limestone ridges of the Pindus Mountains.* An area shared between both Greece and Albania, its Greek settlements showing striking similarities with towns such as Berat and Gjirokastër. A region combining dramatic mountainous landscapes with crisp white beach strips and a cultural blend caused by its tumultuous history.
* A continuation of the Dinaric Alps.
* A continuation of the Dinaric Alps.
Too busy to read now? No problem, save it for later!
Save on Get Pocket | Save in Browser Bookmarks| Save on Instapaper
Save on Get Pocket | Save in Browser Bookmarks| Save on Instapaper
The “Musical Chairs” of the Epirus Region
Initially inhabited by Greek Tribes, Epirus already played a highly significant role in the early days as the home of the Dodona Oracle*, the oldest of Ancient Greece and the second-most significant after Delphi. However, its main claim to fame was achieved by Pyrrhus of Epirus, whose name is linked to his fierce fights against the Roman Republic, albeit in vain: in 146BC Epirus fell into Roman hands, with temporary disturbances by the Visigoths, Vandals, Ostrogoths, Avars and Normans. Only after the fall of Constantinople, and with that the fall of the Roman/Byzantine Empire, the Despotate of Epirus came into existence, shortly being ruled by the Venetians and the Serbian king. Eventually absorbed into the newly risen Ottoman Empire (for a duration of 500 years), the area formed an autonomous “pashalik”, in its later days ruled by the both famous and notorious Ali Pasha. The Greek War of Independence (1830) set almost entire Greece free from the Turks, except of the northern region, which remained under Ottoman control for a little longer… Only after the official demise of the Ottoman Empire and the division thereof, the southern Epirus region surrounding Arta was given to Greece according to the Treaty of Berlin (1878).
This area expanded following the Balkan Wars, when southern Epirus became part of Greece, while the northern part was absorbed into Albania. That said, Greece had initially seized the entire Epirus region, but the Treaty of Bucharest following the Second Balkan War had put a stop to that… much to the discontent of the Greek population living in the north. A discontent eventually leading to a revolt in Northern Epirus, when the local Greeks successfully declared their independence in the form of the Autonomous Republic of Northern Epirus (1914), obtained by their tactics of guerrilla fighting. The independence was short-lived, as when WWI broke out the area was controlled by Greece, Italy and France. By the end of the war (1919), Northern Epirus was once again awarded to Greece, but their fruitless Greco-Turkish War and some Italian lobbying pushed it back again on the Albanian side (1924). The “musical chairs” continued some more during WWII, when Greece took control of the North after a repelled invasion of Fascist Italy via Albania… to later be added to Albania again. During the Albanian totalitarian communist regime of Enver Hoxha the north underwent a strong forced “Albanisation.” That however didn’t stop a mass immigration from the Northern Epirus’ citizens to the South once communism finally collapsed.
It is okay if you are slightly lost.
* The archaeological remains of the Dodoni Sanctuary can still be visited today.
Ioannina
I travelled overland from Albania (North Epirus) into Greece (South Epirus), and as such, crossed a border without really crossing a border. Especially looking at the landscape of this “terra firma” or mainland (the meaning of the word “Epirus”), it’s one stunning extension of the scenery I had already witnessed on the Albanian side: The forested mountain chain forming the jaw-dropping Vikos National Park provides a natural home to bears, wolves, lynxes and deer. Following this memorable roadtrip, the first city you stumble upon on the way down south is Ioannina, the largest one of entire Epirus… and what a beauty it is!
The most astounding sight is undoubtedly the Historical Old Town, encircled by imposing ancient walls and crowned by the Ioannina Castle. The castle ruins can be entered free of charge, its grounds offering magnificent views over the adjacent Pamvotis Lake. However, the area contains two museums, requiring a modest entry fee: The Silversmithing Museum and the Byzantine Museum. As the latter also includes a silver- and filigree collection, I decided to limit myself to that one. The museum is very informative and provides intriguing insights about Ioannina during the Roman/Byzantine era, as well as the follow-up Ottoman period which provided a cultural boom and economic growth. Naturally, special attention is given to the reign of the originally Albanian leader from North Epirus: Ali Pasha of Tepelena (who kicked off his power spree as initially just the provincial governor of Ioannina). This entails an episode in history marked by both prosperity and terror (depending on who tells the story), which ended with his assassination by Sultan Mahmut II at the Monastery of St. Panteleimon, located a stone’s throw away on the island in the Pamvotis Lake. The island, as well as the Ali Pasha Museum located on it, can be visited by boat. His beheaded body is buried in the tomb right next to the Fethiye Mosque, located on the castle grounds.
I travelled overland from Albania (North Epirus) into Greece (South Epirus), and as such, crossed a border without really crossing a border. Especially looking at the landscape of this “terra firma” or mainland (the meaning of the word “Epirus”), it’s one stunning extension of the scenery I had already witnessed on the Albanian side: The forested mountain chain forming the jaw-dropping Vikos National Park provides a natural home to bears, wolves, lynxes and deer. Following this memorable roadtrip, the first city you stumble upon on the way down south is Ioannina, the largest one of entire Epirus… and what a beauty it is!
The most astounding sight is undoubtedly the Historical Old Town, encircled by imposing ancient walls and crowned by the Ioannina Castle. The castle ruins can be entered free of charge, its grounds offering magnificent views over the adjacent Pamvotis Lake. However, the area contains two museums, requiring a modest entry fee: The Silversmithing Museum and the Byzantine Museum. As the latter also includes a silver- and filigree collection, I decided to limit myself to that one. The museum is very informative and provides intriguing insights about Ioannina during the Roman/Byzantine era, as well as the follow-up Ottoman period which provided a cultural boom and economic growth. Naturally, special attention is given to the reign of the originally Albanian leader from North Epirus: Ali Pasha of Tepelena (who kicked off his power spree as initially just the provincial governor of Ioannina). This entails an episode in history marked by both prosperity and terror (depending on who tells the story), which ended with his assassination by Sultan Mahmut II at the Monastery of St. Panteleimon, located a stone’s throw away on the island in the Pamvotis Lake. The island, as well as the Ali Pasha Museum located on it, can be visited by boat. His beheaded body is buried in the tomb right next to the Fethiye Mosque, located on the castle grounds.
Alternative Epirus destinations: Arta, Konitsa, Filiates.
Zitsa
I could have visited a handful of picturesque Epirian mountain towns… but I visited Zitsa. And as such, obliviously hit the jackpot. The village was initially an Ottoman protectorate of the Sultan’s mother (Valinte), but after the liberation it grew out to be the beacon of Greek character, safeguarding and nourishing the religion, language and customs. The act of traveling equals for me submerging into all of these elements that makes a place unique, defining its spirit and cultural DNA… living the life of locals in an attempt to try to see the world through their eyes, colored in by their specific history, experiences and believe systems.
And where is a better place to do so than in the middle of the lush Zitsa countryside, in a fine self-built wooden cabin, hosted by the one and only baker in town (which equals an ongoing glorious carb-fest, praise my life!). In any other situation a 4:30AM alarm would equal hell for me, but not when I can watch the satisfying process of kneading, rolling and baking… a routine providing my favorite product since childhood: anything bread. When I was young and my family took me along to a restaurant, they simply had to order a bread basket for me to be sorted. I wasn’t a difficult eater, I just knew where my priorities lay… and this hasn’t changed since. I was simply in awe watching the chatty Kostas flying around his kitchen in a cloud of flour, incredibly energetic for this hour and visibly in his element, while producing more types of dough than I ever knew existed. If some magnificent turn of events makes you end up in Zitsa someday, make sure you book the Bakery of the Village Baking Experience!
Another Kostas bringing essence to Zitsa is the local talented painter: Kostas Malamos (1913-2007). Not only did he produce some fine pieces of art himself, he also made it his life goal to assemble valuable artworks of other Greek painters and printmakers in his beloved hometown. The result is the extraordinary Kostas Malamos Gallery. It was truly an unexpected surprise to find a museum of that calibre in a tiny village like this.
Another reason why I cherish my time spent in Zitsa, is its prime location among the luscious Greek vineyards. It’s honestly like wine always finds me. The smooth, fragrant flavours of this region even amazed the world's first travelblogger: the 18th century traveling poet Lord Byron. The ‘debina’ is one of the oldest and most exquisite grape variety, mainly cultivated in the region of Epirus. It is a late variety preserving its acids. This makes it ideal for the production of white wine, especially the sparkling variety, as well as distillates such as the traditional, velvety tsipouro (brandy). White is alright, but the redder the better, if you ask me. Luckily, the Zoinos Winery also cultivates an impressive line of reds, such as the Arktouros, the Orines Diadromes and my #1 favorite I have tasted during my 1,5 months in Greece: their signatory Vlahico.* And they will let you taste all of them free of charge! Warning: 99% change of bringing a bottle back home.
* I’m intolerant to strong spirits, but my travel companion was thoroughly impressed by their Zoinos Ipirotiko Aged Tsipouro.
“Monastic Zitsa! from thy shady brow,
Thou small, but favoured spot of holy ground!
Where'er we gaze, around, above, below,
What rainbow tints, what magic charms are found!
Rock, river, forest, mountain all abound,
And bluest skies that harmonise the whole:
Beneath, the distant torrent's rushing sound
Tells where the volumed cataract doth roll
Between those hanging rocks, that shock yet please the soul.”
- Lord Byron
Zitsa
I could have visited a handful of picturesque Epirian mountain towns… but I visited Zitsa. And as such, obliviously hit the jackpot. The village was initially an Ottoman protectorate of the Sultan’s mother (Valinte), but after the liberation it grew out to be the beacon of Greek character, safeguarding and nourishing the religion, language and customs. The act of traveling equals for me submerging into all of these elements that makes a place unique, defining its spirit and cultural DNA… living the life of locals in an attempt to try to see the world through their eyes, colored in by their specific history, experiences and believe systems.
And where is a better place to do so than in the middle of the lush Zitsa countryside, in a fine self-built wooden cabin, hosted by the one and only baker in town (which equals an ongoing glorious carb-fest, praise my life!). In any other situation a 4:30AM alarm would equal hell for me, but not when I can watch the satisfying process of kneading, rolling and baking… a routine providing my favorite product since childhood: anything bread. When I was young and my family took me along to a restaurant, they simply had to order a bread basket for me to be sorted. I wasn’t a difficult eater, I just knew where my priorities lay… and this hasn’t changed since. I was simply in awe watching the chatty Kostas flying around his kitchen in a cloud of flour, incredibly energetic for this hour and visibly in his element, while producing more types of dough than I ever knew existed. If some magnificent turn of events makes you end up in Zitsa someday, make sure you book the Bakery of the Village Baking Experience!
Another Kostas bringing essence to Zitsa is the local talented painter: Kostas Malamos (1913-2007). Not only did he produce some fine pieces of art himself, he also made it his life goal to assemble valuable artworks of other Greek painters and printmakers in his beloved hometown. The result is the extraordinary Kostas Malamos Gallery. It was truly an unexpected surprise to find a museum of that calibre in a tiny village like this.
Another reason why I cherish my time spent in Zitsa, is its prime location among the luscious Greek vineyards. It’s honestly like wine always finds me. The smooth, fragrant flavours of this region even amazed the world's first travelblogger: the 18th century traveling poet Lord Byron. The ‘debina’ is one of the oldest and most exquisite grape variety, mainly cultivated in the region of Epirus. It is a late variety preserving its acids. This makes it ideal for the production of white wine, especially the sparkling variety, as well as distillates such as the traditional, velvety tsipouro (brandy). White is alright, but the redder the better, if you ask me. Luckily, the Zoinos Winery also cultivates an impressive line of reds, such as the Arktouros, the Orines Diadromes and my #1 favorite I have tasted during my 1,5 months in Greece: their signatory Vlahico.* And they will let you taste all of them free of charge! Warning: 99% change of bringing a bottle back home.
* I’m intolerant to strong spirits, but my travel companion was thoroughly impressed by their Zoinos Ipirotiko Aged Tsipouro.
“Monastic Zitsa! from thy shady brow,
Thou small, but favoured spot of holy ground!
Where'er we gaze, around, above, below,
What rainbow tints, what magic charms are found!
Rock, river, forest, mountain all abound,
And bluest skies that harmonise the whole:
Beneath, the distant torrent's rushing sound
Tells where the volumed cataract doth roll
Between those hanging rocks, that shock yet please the soul.”
- Lord Byron
Parga
Most of Epirus lies on the windward side of the Pindus Mountains, making the region the rainiest in mainland Greece (which was the reason we quite fortunately got “stuck” in Zitsa for 5 full days). Simultaneously, Epirus has a Mediterranean coastal climate and an Alpine one in the interior. We discussed the mountain towns, so let’s now focus on its prime beach destination attracting hordes of tourists every year (incl. my family and I when I was young): Parga. This beach resort gained its relevance by its colorful layout, its natural backdrop and mainly by its sublime location along the Ionian coast, providing a seemingly never-ending stretch of pristine white sand beaches.*
* Including Piso Kryoneri, Lichnos, Valtos, Kryoneri, Sarakiniko and Ai Giannaki Beach.
The town, creeping up along the rocky coast in an explosion of colours, not unlike the Italian Cinque Terre region, provides besides a Mediterranean beach-break an entertaining spot for nightlife and Greek cuisine. On top of that, you can add culture to the mix. The Venetian Castle crowns the top of the hill that overlooks Parga. It was built in the 11th century by local residents aiming to protect the town from invasions. In the 13th century, the Venetians took over and rebuilt the castle to fortify the area. From 1452 on, Parga and the castle were occupied by the Ottomans, who demolished the structure. When the Venetians reconstructed the castle in 1572, the Turks demolished it once again. The Venetians rebuilt it for the third and last time creating a stronger fortress, which was later expanded by Ali Pasha with a bathhouse and harem quarters.
Most of Epirus lies on the windward side of the Pindus Mountains, making the region the rainiest in mainland Greece (which was the reason we quite fortunately got “stuck” in Zitsa for 5 full days). Simultaneously, Epirus has a Mediterranean coastal climate and an Alpine one in the interior. We discussed the mountain towns, so let’s now focus on its prime beach destination attracting hordes of tourists every year (incl. my family and I when I was young): Parga. This beach resort gained its relevance by its colorful layout, its natural backdrop and mainly by its sublime location along the Ionian coast, providing a seemingly never-ending stretch of pristine white sand beaches.*
* Including Piso Kryoneri, Lichnos, Valtos, Kryoneri, Sarakiniko and Ai Giannaki Beach.
The town, creeping up along the rocky coast in an explosion of colours, not unlike the Italian Cinque Terre region, provides besides a Mediterranean beach-break an entertaining spot for nightlife and Greek cuisine. On top of that, you can add culture to the mix. The Venetian Castle crowns the top of the hill that overlooks Parga. It was built in the 11th century by local residents aiming to protect the town from invasions. In the 13th century, the Venetians took over and rebuilt the castle to fortify the area. From 1452 on, Parga and the castle were occupied by the Ottomans, who demolished the structure. When the Venetians reconstructed the castle in 1572, the Turks demolished it once again. The Venetians rebuilt it for the third and last time creating a stronger fortress, which was later expanded by Ali Pasha with a bathhouse and harem quarters.
Parga truly is a destination of which I hold fond childhood memories!
Quick Budget Fact Overview
Greece Facts
Short History Recap
3000-1400BC: Cycladic / Early Bronze Age – Cyclades settle in Asia Minor. 2100-1500BC: Minoan culture. 1400BC: Minoan centres destroyed by natural elements and abandoned. 1400-750BC: Mycenaean / Dorian Period – Mycenaeans from Peloponnese rise to prominence. 1150BC: Dorians conquer large areas of Peloponnese. 776BC: First Olympic Games. 750-550BC: Archaic Period – City-states Athens / Sparta / Thebes / Corinth compete for supremacy. 550BC: Sparta forms Peloponnesian League, rivalry with Athens. 500-338BC: Classical Period – Persia’s King Darius attempts to conquer Greece, but is defeated by Athenian army at Marathon. 481-479BC: Darius’ son Xerxes invades – Spartan king Leonidas (small army) finally falls at Battle of Thermopylae. Athens captured, but sinks Persian fleet off Salamis in surprise attack. 431-404BC: Peloponnesian Wars. Sparta controls most of Greece. 338BC: Philip II of Macedonia defeats Athens/Thebes at Battle of Chaeronea and unites all Greek cities except of Sparta. 338BC-395AD: Hellenistic / Roman Period – Philip II assassinated. His son, Alexander the Great, develops Greece into imperial power with Macedonia at governmental centre. 323BC: Diadochi divide empire after Alexander’s death. Centres of power shift to Middle East / Egypt. 320-275BC: Rome emerges as major power. 146BC: Greece province of Roman Empire. 295-1453AD Byzantine Period – Roman Empire divided in East (Byzantine) and West. 1204: Crusaders attack Constantinople. Franks / Venetians divide Greek territory. 1452: Defeat Byzantine Empire by Ottoman Empire: 1453-1821. 1821-’29: Greek War of Independence from Ottomans. ’12-’13: First Balkan War: Greece wins Epirus, Macedonia, Crete and North Aegean Islands from Ottomans / Second Balkan War: Greece wins Thrace from Bulgaria. 1821 onwards: Modern Times. 1917: Start WWI, Greece with Allies. ’19-’22: Greco-Turkish War (Greek failed invasion of Smyrna). ’24: Monarchy abolished, Greek republic. ’35: Monarchy restored. ’36: General Metaxas starts right-winged dictatorship as PM. ’40: Start WWII, Greece initially neutral – Mussolini attacks Greece from Albania, but is repelled. ’41: Nazi Germany - Resistance by communists and royalists. ’44: Collaboration with UK to repel Nazis. ’46-’49: Greek Civil War between US/UK-backed governmental Hellenic Army and communist SU/Bulgaria/Albania/Yugoslavia-backed Democratic Army of Greece (1st won). ’52: Parliamentary kingdom. Joins NATO. ’67: Military coup. ’73: Republic again. Coup. ’74: Coup against president of Cyprus. Turkish invasion / occupation Northern Cyprus. ’75: Parliamentary republic. ’81: Joins EU. ’91: Former Yugoslavian Republic of Macedonia declares independence. Greek objects to name and flag due to territorial claims of Greek province Macedonia. ’96: Tension with Turkey over Aegean islet. ’99: Earthquake Athens kills dozens. 2002: Euro replaces drachma. ’04: Athens hosts Olympic Games. Formal warning EC: Greece falsified budget deficit data in run-up to eurozone. ’08: Greece blocks Macedonia’s bid to join NATO over unresolved name-dispute. ’09-‘15: Debt crisis – massive debt caused by Greece. Long series of EU + Eurozone rescue bailouts and loans (hundreds of billions of euros) and debt-cuts in exchange for austerity and spending cuts programs, continuously accompanied by mass protests. ’13: Highest unemployment rate EU (26.8% - ’14: 28%). ’18: Agreement with Macedonia after 27-year-long name dispute (Macedonia vs. North Macedonia).
Greece Facts
- Capital: Athens
- Language: Greek
- Population: ± 10.72mln (Ioannina: ± 112,599)
- Sq km: ± 131,957 (Ioannina: 403.3)
- Currency: Euro (€)
- Electricity Outlet: C and F / 230V / 50Hz. Check here!
- Country Code Phone: +30
- Emergency Phone: 112 (general), 166 (ambulance), 199 (fire), 100 (police), 171 (tourist police)
- Visa: Check out the visa requirements here.
- Vaccinations: Covid.
- Climate Epirus: Dry-Summer Subtropical (Csa)
- High season: June-September.
Short History Recap
3000-1400BC: Cycladic / Early Bronze Age – Cyclades settle in Asia Minor. 2100-1500BC: Minoan culture. 1400BC: Minoan centres destroyed by natural elements and abandoned. 1400-750BC: Mycenaean / Dorian Period – Mycenaeans from Peloponnese rise to prominence. 1150BC: Dorians conquer large areas of Peloponnese. 776BC: First Olympic Games. 750-550BC: Archaic Period – City-states Athens / Sparta / Thebes / Corinth compete for supremacy. 550BC: Sparta forms Peloponnesian League, rivalry with Athens. 500-338BC: Classical Period – Persia’s King Darius attempts to conquer Greece, but is defeated by Athenian army at Marathon. 481-479BC: Darius’ son Xerxes invades – Spartan king Leonidas (small army) finally falls at Battle of Thermopylae. Athens captured, but sinks Persian fleet off Salamis in surprise attack. 431-404BC: Peloponnesian Wars. Sparta controls most of Greece. 338BC: Philip II of Macedonia defeats Athens/Thebes at Battle of Chaeronea and unites all Greek cities except of Sparta. 338BC-395AD: Hellenistic / Roman Period – Philip II assassinated. His son, Alexander the Great, develops Greece into imperial power with Macedonia at governmental centre. 323BC: Diadochi divide empire after Alexander’s death. Centres of power shift to Middle East / Egypt. 320-275BC: Rome emerges as major power. 146BC: Greece province of Roman Empire. 295-1453AD Byzantine Period – Roman Empire divided in East (Byzantine) and West. 1204: Crusaders attack Constantinople. Franks / Venetians divide Greek territory. 1452: Defeat Byzantine Empire by Ottoman Empire: 1453-1821. 1821-’29: Greek War of Independence from Ottomans. ’12-’13: First Balkan War: Greece wins Epirus, Macedonia, Crete and North Aegean Islands from Ottomans / Second Balkan War: Greece wins Thrace from Bulgaria. 1821 onwards: Modern Times. 1917: Start WWI, Greece with Allies. ’19-’22: Greco-Turkish War (Greek failed invasion of Smyrna). ’24: Monarchy abolished, Greek republic. ’35: Monarchy restored. ’36: General Metaxas starts right-winged dictatorship as PM. ’40: Start WWII, Greece initially neutral – Mussolini attacks Greece from Albania, but is repelled. ’41: Nazi Germany - Resistance by communists and royalists. ’44: Collaboration with UK to repel Nazis. ’46-’49: Greek Civil War between US/UK-backed governmental Hellenic Army and communist SU/Bulgaria/Albania/Yugoslavia-backed Democratic Army of Greece (1st won). ’52: Parliamentary kingdom. Joins NATO. ’67: Military coup. ’73: Republic again. Coup. ’74: Coup against president of Cyprus. Turkish invasion / occupation Northern Cyprus. ’75: Parliamentary republic. ’81: Joins EU. ’91: Former Yugoslavian Republic of Macedonia declares independence. Greek objects to name and flag due to territorial claims of Greek province Macedonia. ’96: Tension with Turkey over Aegean islet. ’99: Earthquake Athens kills dozens. 2002: Euro replaces drachma. ’04: Athens hosts Olympic Games. Formal warning EC: Greece falsified budget deficit data in run-up to eurozone. ’08: Greece blocks Macedonia’s bid to join NATO over unresolved name-dispute. ’09-‘15: Debt crisis – massive debt caused by Greece. Long series of EU + Eurozone rescue bailouts and loans (hundreds of billions of euros) and debt-cuts in exchange for austerity and spending cuts programs, continuously accompanied by mass protests. ’13: Highest unemployment rate EU (26.8% - ’14: 28%). ’18: Agreement with Macedonia after 27-year-long name dispute (Macedonia vs. North Macedonia).
Local Festivals
Budget Bites
- Zitsa Wine Festival - August.
- Kanaria Festival Parga - August 14th.
- Dormition of the Virgin (most villages) - August 15th.
- Festival of Dodoni (theatre) - September.
- Ioannina Science Festival - December.
Budget Bites
- Local Dishes: Pita Gyros (meat); Souvlaki (meat skewer); Moussaka (oven dish with minced meat / eggplant / potatoes / bechamel sauce); Pastitsio (macaroni lasagne); Kefthetes (meat balls); Loutza (cured pork tenderloin); Yemista (stuffed tomatoes); Papoutsakia (stuffed eggplants); Stifado (beef stew); Giouvetsi (beef stew with pasta); Kleftiko / Paidakia (lamb); Brizola (pork / beef steak); Mydia (mussels); Sofrito (slow-cooked veal); Xiphias (sword fish); Antzougi (anchovis); Spetzofai (sausage-wine dish); Fasolatha (white bean soup); Dolmadakia (rice-stuffed grape leaves); Koulouri (bread rings); Spanakopita (stuffed pastry); Loukoumades (fried honey-covered dough balls); Greek Salad / Choriatiki; Tzatziki (garlic-yoghurt dip); Taramasalata (fish roe dip); Tirokafteri (cheese dip); Tiropita (cheese pie); Olives; Greek Yoghurt (with honey and walnuts).
- The Veg Situation: Going vegan is rather complicated in Greece outside of the bigger cities, but going vegetarian is remarkably easy. Many local dishes are ‘accidentally’ vegetarian’… most however containing cheese, eggs and/or honey. Local veg dishes (some descriptions above): Fasolatha; Vegetarian Moussaka; Yemista; Papoutsakia; Dolmadakia; Koulouri; Spanakopita with Cheese/Spinach; Loukoumades; Greek Salad; Tzatziki; Tirokafteri; Tiropita; Olives; Greek Yoghurt; Kolokitho Keftedes (courgette balls); Tomato Keftedes (tomato fritters); Fava (split peas dip); Melitzanosalata (eggplant dip); Tirokroketes (fried cheese balls); Saganaki (fried cheese); Daklos (crackers with feta and capers); Horta (leafy boiled greens); Briam (roasted vegetables); Gigantes (giant beans); Pissara (feta, sun-dried tomato and pine nuts salad); Salata Koliandrou (collard salad); Pitaroudia (chickpea dumpling); Fasolakia (green beans); Spanakoriza (spinach-rice stew).
- National Drink: Tsipouro (spirit), Ouzo (anise spirit) and delicious Greek wine. The standard coffee served in Greece is ice coffee. If you want hot coffee, specify this in your order.
Sleep Cheap
- Hostels / Hotels: are definitely not cheap in Greece, especially in the Epirus region and on the islands in summer. However, if you’re with 2 people or more, a private room or apartment is generally cheaper than a dormitory bed in a hostel. I personally found the best deals on Booking.com, which is generally cheaper than Air BnB listings here. Booking.com also has the biggest selection, is transparent about the final price and has an efficient search engine tailored to your specific needs. If you use it often enough, generous Genius-discounts are applied. Agoda is often not transparent about prices, adding a lot of additional costs in the last booking-step. Opodo is a better alternative. Keep in mind that most municipalities charge a city tax. Writer’s Choice: In Zitsa, I stayed in this incredible countryside cabin.
- Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost (unless you put a third-world country as homebase), but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate review explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored). Alternatives are Be Welcome and Trust Roots, although they have less members.
- Housesitting: is an amazing exchange allowing you to stay short- or long-term in somebody’s house, while looking after their house and pets. There are many different websites, most of them paid… but once you landed a sit, the subscription fee pays itself back quickly. The main housesitting website is Trusted Housesitters.
- Wild Camping: is possible when doing it well hidden. However, do know that this is illegal in Greece and if caught, you have to go to trial (I personally met someone who had to go through this unpleasant experience).
Mama Said
Transport
Next?
* As described in the “History Recap,” this name is very controversial and still a topic of political debate. Macedonia is the name of a northern Greek province, North Macedonia the official name of the country. However, if you use “North” before the country-name, you profoundly insult the local population of (North) Macedonia. On the other hand, if you are in Greece and use the word “Macedonia” to refer to the country, you will not make any friends. The solution is to refer to the country as “North Macedonia” while in Greece, and change to “Macedonia” while crossing the border.
- Safety: European tourist destinations are generally safe, but use your common sense like everywhere. Don’t walk alone in remote areas after sunset, don’t take valuables along and follow your instinct when entering certain neighbourhoods further away from the centre.
- Tap Water: is drinkable.
- English is widely spoken, even by the older generation.
- Boycott zoos such as Parko Zoologikos Kipos, where animals are held in captivity out of their natural habitat.
- The best credit/debit cards for traveling are Wise and Revolut, as they use the live conversion rates without any extra fees. They also have the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. Keep in mind that all Greek ATMs charge a fee, the amount always indicated before completing the transaction. Payment by card is generally accepted everywhere.
- Simcard: The cheapest prepaid deals can be found on the street of Athens, generally around the major metro/train stations. Whereas in the shop they might charge €20 per month for limited calls and data, on the street the same simcard but with unlimited data is only €10. Don’t ask me how, just enjoy it.
Transport
- Walking: is the main way to get around, even in bigger cities such as Ioannina.
- Cycling: There are asphalt roads, making cycling easy. However, Greek drivers aren’t necessarily used to cyclists, so be very careful.
- Taxi / Uber: Taxis are available in the main cities and can be ordered or hailed down on the street. This is not a cheap option, so make sure to negotiate the price ahead or ask the meter to be turned on.
- Train: The Greek train network is served by TrainOse. You can book tickets online and add student discounts. Keep in mind that train travel is very expensive in Greece (much more than buses) and tickets are likely to sell out. Omio is a useful website for booking discount deals online in a wide variety of countries. For train passes check Eurail.
- Car Rental: is remarkably cheap. In off-season I found a rental car of €4-5 per day (excl. insurance) via Kayak, as long as the pick-up and drop-off point is Athens Airport. I booked it via …
- Airport: Thessaloniki Airport Makedonia (SKG).
- Hitchhiking: is relatively safe in Greece, but it’s not very common. It’s pretty complicated to get in and out of the bigger cities, but in villages it’s much easier. More info here.
Next?
- National Destinations Close By: Corfu, Meteora, Thessaloniki, Volos.
- International Destinations Close By: Albania, (North) Macedonia*, Bulgaria, Turkey, Italy.
* As described in the “History Recap,” this name is very controversial and still a topic of political debate. Macedonia is the name of a northern Greek province, North Macedonia the official name of the country. However, if you use “North” before the country-name, you profoundly insult the local population of (North) Macedonia. On the other hand, if you are in Greece and use the word “Macedonia” to refer to the country, you will not make any friends. The solution is to refer to the country as “North Macedonia” while in Greece, and change to “Macedonia” while crossing the border.
In order to support the travelers’ community, I spend many hours per week to adequately document all information and advices for prospective visitors, accompanied by a (hopefully) entertaining insight into my personal observations and experiences. This service is and will remain free. However, if you voluntarily want to make a contribution and support my travels and thus the creation of new stories and information supply, here is the button you’re looking for:
Related:
- Get deep into Greece: Athens, Delphi, Arachova, Mount Parnassos NP, Meteora, Thessaloniki & Volos
- Archeological treasures, UNESCO sights and Greece's roughest nature: Explore the Peloponnese!
- Explore Cyprus: Check out the Cyprus Nature, Cyprus Top-5 Cities and the North Cyprus Blogs!
- Get your Albania itinerary ready: Berat, Gjirokastër, Korcë / Ohrid Lake, Theth, Shkodër, Tirana, Mount Korab & the coast!
- Check out Budget Bucket List's FAVORITE HIKING DESTINATIONS worldwide!
- Visit Balkan's finest: Montenegro's National Parks Blog, Kotor Bay & Lovcen NP and Cetinje, Podgorica, Prokletije NP and Montenegro's Coastal Towns Blog
- The best hiking destinations of Armenia: Mount Aragats, Dilijan and the southern Legend's (Transcaucasian) Trail
- 10 typical Dutch celebrations no traveller should miss out on
- History preserved: Time capsule of Romanian culture Maramures
- The 3 golden rules to travel Sofia on a budget! & Why you shouldn’t miss out on Plovdiv! [Bulgaria]
- Where modern meets classic: Vilnius, Lithuania
- 8 ways to save money in Vienna, Austria
- German gems: Aachen & Frankfurt am Main
- Europe's best skiing & hiking: Get your ass over to jaw-dropping Switzerland!
- Budget Bucket List hitchhike trip to... Kosovo!
- Unravel the mysteries of Serbia
- Discover the splendours of Turkey: Istanbul on a Budget & Reasons to visit Edirne
- Discover the splendors of Macedonian Wine and its best wineries!
- Travel Argentina's main wine regions: Mendoza & Cafayate.
- Explore one of the main wine countries of South America: Chile!
- Carmelo, the main wine destination of Uruguay.
- Go for a bicycle wine tour in New Zealand's North Island & hike the wine route of Cromwell!
- Bosnia & Herzegovina's main wine hub: Trebinje!
- Visit the wineries of Cyprus in the Troodos mountain region.
- Where can you find the best wine of Malta? Read it here!
- Montenegro's main winery is located in... [click here!]
- Get your discounted wine experience in Bucharest, Romania!
- "Con pan y vino se anda el Camino" - the Camino de Santiago passes right through Spain's main wine country! Check it out!
- Get deep into Greece: Athens, Delphi, Arachova, Mount Parnassos NP, Meteora, Thessaloniki & Volos
- Archeological treasures, UNESCO sights and Greece's roughest nature: Explore the Peloponnese!
- Explore Cyprus: Check out the Cyprus Nature, Cyprus Top-5 Cities and the North Cyprus Blogs!
- Get your Albania itinerary ready: Berat, Gjirokastër, Korcë / Ohrid Lake, Theth, Shkodër, Tirana, Mount Korab & the coast!
- Check out Budget Bucket List's FAVORITE HIKING DESTINATIONS worldwide!
- Visit Balkan's finest: Montenegro's National Parks Blog, Kotor Bay & Lovcen NP and Cetinje, Podgorica, Prokletije NP and Montenegro's Coastal Towns Blog
- The best hiking destinations of Armenia: Mount Aragats, Dilijan and the southern Legend's (Transcaucasian) Trail
- 10 typical Dutch celebrations no traveller should miss out on
- History preserved: Time capsule of Romanian culture Maramures
- The 3 golden rules to travel Sofia on a budget! & Why you shouldn’t miss out on Plovdiv! [Bulgaria]
- Where modern meets classic: Vilnius, Lithuania
- 8 ways to save money in Vienna, Austria
- German gems: Aachen & Frankfurt am Main
- Europe's best skiing & hiking: Get your ass over to jaw-dropping Switzerland!
- Budget Bucket List hitchhike trip to... Kosovo!
- Unravel the mysteries of Serbia
- Discover the splendours of Turkey: Istanbul on a Budget & Reasons to visit Edirne
- Discover the splendors of Macedonian Wine and its best wineries!
- Travel Argentina's main wine regions: Mendoza & Cafayate.
- Explore one of the main wine countries of South America: Chile!
- Carmelo, the main wine destination of Uruguay.
- Go for a bicycle wine tour in New Zealand's North Island & hike the wine route of Cromwell!
- Bosnia & Herzegovina's main wine hub: Trebinje!
- Visit the wineries of Cyprus in the Troodos mountain region.
- Where can you find the best wine of Malta? Read it here!
- Montenegro's main winery is located in... [click here!]
- Get your discounted wine experience in Bucharest, Romania!
- "Con pan y vino se anda el Camino" - the Camino de Santiago passes right through Spain's main wine country! Check it out!