Cross-Canada Cycle Journey 1:
Vancouver Island
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Great adventures start with tiny ideas. A small lingering thought in the background that seems insignificant at first glance, but somehow cannot be silenced. It slowly but steadily hangs around, stalks your empty thoughts in silent moments, bullies its way into both dreams and nightmares. It becomes more vivid, anticipating on potential emotions, encounters and accomplishments in hazy imagery, like a distant yet clearly visible oasis. The best ones seem impossible when thought the first time, shuffled aside as the mental lapse of a madman… because that’s when it happens: It irreversibly catches the undivided attention of the stubborn among us. Me. “Impossible, IMPOSSIBLE you say!? I’ll proof you impossible, you stupid brain, now it’s gotta happen.”
And that’s how you end up cycling across the world’s second biggest country for a whooping 9,500km straight, without even remotely having done anything like it before.
A cross-country Canada adventure on two wheels and pure leg power. That’s one for the books.
And that’s how you end up cycling across the world’s second biggest country for a whooping 9,500km straight, without even remotely having done anything like it before.
A cross-country Canada adventure on two wheels and pure leg power. That’s one for the books.
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Preparation
How did I do it, how did I prepare myself, people asked me. What was my training schedule and how long did it take me to plan it all out? The whole damn cycle razzmatazz, the gear and the fluff, the routes and logistics, the goals and the timeframes.
Ehh, well. As I was going to be cycling, I figured a bicycle might come in handy. Which I bought 6 days before departure. Second hand, on Facebook Marketplace. Just enough time for a final check- and tune-up at Victoria’s local bike shop, to shield myself from unwanted surprises shortly after take-off. I chose a sweet ‘n reliable Kona Sutra, my green steel companion who’d get me through it all. One employee of the bicycle store seemed pleasantly amused by the thought of me crossing his mega-homeland without having the slightest clue of what I was getting myself into (at all times the best state of mind), and decided to offer a free basic repair class. Rather practical, as I didn’t even know how to change a flat tire. My dad always used to do that stuff and I never had shown the slightest interest to learn. This probably was the time to do so, just a hunch.
A week earlier I had googled all the extra gear I allegedly needed in my newly acquired status as a “biketourer” (which is different from a bikepacker, as I learned*) and simply ordered it all in one afternoon on Amazon and, even better as a rock-bottom-budget-traveler, Ali Express. I don’t need all that fancy stuff, that’s just how nervous cyclists-to-be buy off their insecurities.
* Biketouring refers to a long-distance, multi-day, -week or -month cycle journey, mainly over paved roads. Bike tourers travel with luggage stuffed in bike bags on the rear and front. Bikepackers travel shorter-term mainly on gravel roads, while packed ultralight with minimal luggage under the seat and hanging from the bars.
I’ll share the list of what I left with:
How did I do it, how did I prepare myself, people asked me. What was my training schedule and how long did it take me to plan it all out? The whole damn cycle razzmatazz, the gear and the fluff, the routes and logistics, the goals and the timeframes.
Ehh, well. As I was going to be cycling, I figured a bicycle might come in handy. Which I bought 6 days before departure. Second hand, on Facebook Marketplace. Just enough time for a final check- and tune-up at Victoria’s local bike shop, to shield myself from unwanted surprises shortly after take-off. I chose a sweet ‘n reliable Kona Sutra, my green steel companion who’d get me through it all. One employee of the bicycle store seemed pleasantly amused by the thought of me crossing his mega-homeland without having the slightest clue of what I was getting myself into (at all times the best state of mind), and decided to offer a free basic repair class. Rather practical, as I didn’t even know how to change a flat tire. My dad always used to do that stuff and I never had shown the slightest interest to learn. This probably was the time to do so, just a hunch.
A week earlier I had googled all the extra gear I allegedly needed in my newly acquired status as a “biketourer” (which is different from a bikepacker, as I learned*) and simply ordered it all in one afternoon on Amazon and, even better as a rock-bottom-budget-traveler, Ali Express. I don’t need all that fancy stuff, that’s just how nervous cyclists-to-be buy off their insecurities.
* Biketouring refers to a long-distance, multi-day, -week or -month cycle journey, mainly over paved roads. Bike tourers travel with luggage stuffed in bike bags on the rear and front. Bikepackers travel shorter-term mainly on gravel roads, while packed ultralight with minimal luggage under the seat and hanging from the bars.
I’ll share the list of what I left with:
- Bicycle
- Bicycle accessories: Helmet (mandatory in certain provinces of Canada), cycle gloves, bike stand (a personal choice, but I preferred the convenience), front & back luggage racks, lock, bell, front & back light, front & back reflectors, hand pump, 2 water bottles (with filter) and holder, rag, plastic gloves, X - seat gel cushion, X- pedal strips to attach shoe to pedal (terrible)
- Bags: Bicycle bags for the back rack (these cheap 50 bucks bag lasted me the entire journey, but they ripped right when I finished), small handlebar bag, phone bag for handlebar, bungee cords for attachment
- Bear canister (attached to the front rack – very necessary, I saw around 15 bears on my journey, including a grizzly. Not to mention all the animals interested in eating your food.)
- Repair and spares: Standard bicycle repair kit, multi-tool, spoke wrench (never used), 2 spare tubes, spare brake cable, 2 spare spokes, spare screws and bolts of everything, chain quick link, spare lights and reflectors to be attached to the body, chain lube, duct tape, tie-rips
- Sleeping kit: Tent, sleeping mat, sleeping bag and inflatable pillow, emergency blanket (in the colder months I spread it over the tent’s bottom to insulate from the freezing ground)
- Cooking kit: Camping gas, compact stove, matches and lighter, 1-portion titanium pan, spork, pocket knife, plastic cup, coffee sock (hand filter), water bag, water purification tablets, rag, X – sponge
- Toiletries kit: Toiletry bag to hang, toothbrush, tooth paste, deodorant, tweezers, foldable scissors, needle and thread, razor, small mirror, body glide (!!!), talc powder, vaseline, hairbrush, hair ties, hair band, ear buds, soap bar, shampoo bar, laundry bar, mosquito spray, sunscreen, lip balm with sun protection, toilet paper, wet wipes (if no shower available), stash of contact lenses & fluid, glasses, tampons, small first aid kit, tick pen, sleeping mask and ear plugs, 1 small towel cut in half
- Clothing: 1 bicycle shorts, 1 bicycle long pants, 2 cycle t-shirts, X -1 cycle long sleeve, 1 normal shirt for in the evening, 1 yoga pants for in the evening, 1 shorts for in the evening, 1 sports bra, 5 underwear, 4 pairs of socks, 1 swimsuit, 1 rainsuit (pants and jacket – more convenient when moving compared to a poncho), 2 sets of sunglasses, 1 buff, 1 fleece, 1 insulating layer, 1 puffy jacket (tossed out in summer), 1 pair of gloves (tossed out in summer), 1 thermal legging (tossed out in summer), 1 hat (tossed out in summer), 1 headband, flipflops, runners (I didn’t feel the need to buy cycle shoes and never felt like I needed them along the journey)
- Electronics & docs: Ereader, 2 powerbanks (1 of them solar), charger with spare charging cables, headphones with spares, headlamp, X – foldable keyboard and phone holder, waterproof bag, hip bag, passport, cash money, bank passes
Many of these items I already owned, as a weathered hiker and backpacker. The items with a cross in front of it were tossed away within a month’s time, as less is always more (I gave myself 1 week of not using an item, then it’s aggressively and irreversibly OUT, ain’t got no time for extra ballast). Over the journey I replaced my helmet, lock, the water bottles and headphones, as Ali Express might’ve been too frugal for the quality needed for these specific items (that said, many Ali Express items made it until the end and I still use!).
Otherwise… nothing. I didn’t train. I figured I started off with “short” days between 60-100km (even though I had never really cycled longer than 20-30km before, besides some sporadic exceptions). I anticipated excruciating saddle pain, muscle cramps and fatigue in the first week or two before my body would “click” and understand that this is what we’re doing now. Not unlike the start of a thru-hike. Just suck it up, part of the process. And that’s that. You can start freaking out about all the who’s and what’s and how’s, but while doing so you lost all your energy and you’re still at kilometre zero. Just go, man. Figure it out on the move. You’ll be alright.
Day 1: Victoria - Duncan
Distance: 70.6km
GPS: Official GPS.
Terrain: Mostly asphalt. Bike lanes in the urban area of Victoria. Hilly! Pro-tip: Instead of the highway, take the southern route on the right, which includes a small ferry ride.
Views: City, countryside, hills.
Water Situation: Shops available along the way. Filtering possible from some streams and the bay.
Food Situation: Supermarkets in and around Victoria and some overpriced stores around the ferry. The stretch from the ferry until Duncan has almost no stores, so make sure you get what you need at the beginning of the journey.
(Sunny, no wind)
Otherwise… nothing. I didn’t train. I figured I started off with “short” days between 60-100km (even though I had never really cycled longer than 20-30km before, besides some sporadic exceptions). I anticipated excruciating saddle pain, muscle cramps and fatigue in the first week or two before my body would “click” and understand that this is what we’re doing now. Not unlike the start of a thru-hike. Just suck it up, part of the process. And that’s that. You can start freaking out about all the who’s and what’s and how’s, but while doing so you lost all your energy and you’re still at kilometre zero. Just go, man. Figure it out on the move. You’ll be alright.
Day 1: Victoria - Duncan
Distance: 70.6km
GPS: Official GPS.
Terrain: Mostly asphalt. Bike lanes in the urban area of Victoria. Hilly! Pro-tip: Instead of the highway, take the southern route on the right, which includes a small ferry ride.
Views: City, countryside, hills.
Water Situation: Shops available along the way. Filtering possible from some streams and the bay.
Food Situation: Supermarkets in and around Victoria and some overpriced stores around the ferry. The stretch from the ferry until Duncan has almost no stores, so make sure you get what you need at the beginning of the journey.
(Sunny, no wind)
I woke up trembling from excitement. It’s on. Even a 9,500km adventure starts with the first few meters. Meters full of novelty and promise. I had received a phone call from the bicycle shop that my bike had been checked and re-checked, upgraded and polished… ready to roll! As I was still completing a house- and petsit in Duncan at the time, it meant that my first stretch could be completed in relative ease: only (?) 70km and without the burden of my stuffed up cycle bags. Today was both my proof ride and first training.
Besides my first true introduction to my new, steel friend called Kona and the world of cycling, this day served as a pleasant acquaintance to the beautiful town of Victoria. The capital of British Columbia… which isn’t, unlike popular belief, Vancouver. Unlike its internationally renowned and dynamic cosmopolitan neighbour, Victoria is unpretentious, laidback and by no means even trying to compete. It’s comfortable with its own strengths, marked by elegance, grace and (as far as that’s possible in the new nation of Canada) history. The downtown area boasts leisurely pedestrian areas, coastal cycle lanes and a variety of sights and points of interests. Beacon Hill Park (incl. the Moss Lady), the Legislative Assembly, the Fairmont Empress, the Inner Harbour Centre and the Terry Fox Monument (dedicated to a man you inevitably learn more about during your time in Canada*) are worth a stop if your schedule allows you to do so. I also recommend shortly parking your bike to roam through the Fan Tan Alley, the narrowest street in Victoria, located in the heart of its Chinatown. As a Dutchie, also the Netherlands Centennial Carillon caught my immediate attention: a modern, almost brutalist-style bell tower given to the province of BC by the Dutch community as a symbol of gratitude for Canada’s role in our Nazi liberation during WWII, unveiled by our former Queen Juliana. As my birthplace was liberated by the Canadian troops and therefore my family owe their lives (and I mine) to their bravery, this (quite literally) hits home.
And… of course: Mile Zero. The very start of your Cross-Country Canada Cycle Adventure.
(Unless you shave off some distance by starting in Vancouver, which is also a common starting point.)
* Terry Fox is a Canadian athlete, folk hero and humanitarian who embarked on a run across Canada to raise awareness and funds for cancer research. Being a cancer patient himself, he did so running a marathon a day on one amputated leg. Unfortunately, he passed away before he could complete his courageous and inspirational endeavour. Nowadays, almost 850 million dollars has been raised in his name and memory.
Besides my first true introduction to my new, steel friend called Kona and the world of cycling, this day served as a pleasant acquaintance to the beautiful town of Victoria. The capital of British Columbia… which isn’t, unlike popular belief, Vancouver. Unlike its internationally renowned and dynamic cosmopolitan neighbour, Victoria is unpretentious, laidback and by no means even trying to compete. It’s comfortable with its own strengths, marked by elegance, grace and (as far as that’s possible in the new nation of Canada) history. The downtown area boasts leisurely pedestrian areas, coastal cycle lanes and a variety of sights and points of interests. Beacon Hill Park (incl. the Moss Lady), the Legislative Assembly, the Fairmont Empress, the Inner Harbour Centre and the Terry Fox Monument (dedicated to a man you inevitably learn more about during your time in Canada*) are worth a stop if your schedule allows you to do so. I also recommend shortly parking your bike to roam through the Fan Tan Alley, the narrowest street in Victoria, located in the heart of its Chinatown. As a Dutchie, also the Netherlands Centennial Carillon caught my immediate attention: a modern, almost brutalist-style bell tower given to the province of BC by the Dutch community as a symbol of gratitude for Canada’s role in our Nazi liberation during WWII, unveiled by our former Queen Juliana. As my birthplace was liberated by the Canadian troops and therefore my family owe their lives (and I mine) to their bravery, this (quite literally) hits home.
And… of course: Mile Zero. The very start of your Cross-Country Canada Cycle Adventure.
(Unless you shave off some distance by starting in Vancouver, which is also a common starting point.)
* Terry Fox is a Canadian athlete, folk hero and humanitarian who embarked on a run across Canada to raise awareness and funds for cancer research. Being a cancer patient himself, he did so running a marathon a day on one amputated leg. Unfortunately, he passed away before he could complete his courageous and inspirational endeavour. Nowadays, almost 850 million dollars has been raised in his name and memory.
I left Victoria via its elaborate network of cycle paths. A luxury I shouldn’t get too used to, as that wasn’t going to be the common reality of my Canadian cycle experience. Instead of following the busy highway, I took the green and quiet eastern route to Brentwood Bay, from where a short and affordable ferry ride dropped me off at Mill Bay. Keep an eye out, as orcas are a regular sight on this boat ride. Unfortunately I wasn’t that lucky, but I do treasure fond memories of the captains letting me steer the boat (!) once they learned about my ambitious cycle plan. The first encounter with the overwhelming Canadian kindness that would characterize this journey.
Day 2: Duncan – Nanaimo
Distance: 61.9km
GPS: Wikiloc. I marked provisioning options per area (not every separate store, as there are many).
Terrain: Mostly asphalt, some off-road trails. The “official route”, as far as there is any (this is your game, you make the rules), goes over the highway, but there are some options to go alongside of it… keep in mind that this is more scenic, but also hillier.
Views: Forest, highway, residential areas, city.
Water Situation: Shops available along the way, as well as gas stations where you could fill up your bottles. As today’s route is very near civilization, I don’t recommend filtration from natural water sources.
Food Situation: Supermarkets in every town along the way. You’ll also encounter plenty of gas stations en-route.
(Sunny, no wind)
A second day that felt like the first! Today was the first time I would be hitting the road fully packed, slowed down and imbalanced by the literal weight of my existence. I learned a valuable lesson from the get-go, the hard way: without having cycled a single meter I tried to step on my bike, throwing my leg over the rear end as I always do… The result was an immediate face plant, as my leg couldn’t reach over the bike bags and got stuck. Off to a good start! Yet, it was an experience that put me right back in focus and painfully taught me the right technique. I dusted myself off and thanked myself for buying a second-hand. An immediate scratch on a multi-thousand new one (yup, quality touring bikes don’t come cheap) would scratch my heart and soul right with it. Now I could just shrug my shoulders and get back to business, with my clumsy nature this was bound to happen anyway (and yes, I dropped my bike a hundred times more, luckily without me on it).
From today on and for the week to follow I cycled with a partner, an ultra-runner and die-hard universal athlete who had planted the seed of this sporty escapade in the back of my brain a few months prior. Together we faced the endless sequence of hills that stretched out in front of us, a friendly reminder of what would await us in the months to follow, with only a short exemption at the flat and dusty Prairies. As a Dutchie I am definitely not new to cycling, which is, beside the main form of transport, the very corner stone of our society. Yet, our country is compact and flat as a pancake: The polar opposite of Canada. I was swept clean off my socks being faced with the ample distances and not only hills, but actual mountains of Canada’s challenging but stunning landscape. Moderate hills for now though, short but rather mean and steep, in the rolling landscape of lush and fertile Vancouver Island.
Distance: 61.9km
GPS: Wikiloc. I marked provisioning options per area (not every separate store, as there are many).
Terrain: Mostly asphalt, some off-road trails. The “official route”, as far as there is any (this is your game, you make the rules), goes over the highway, but there are some options to go alongside of it… keep in mind that this is more scenic, but also hillier.
Views: Forest, highway, residential areas, city.
Water Situation: Shops available along the way, as well as gas stations where you could fill up your bottles. As today’s route is very near civilization, I don’t recommend filtration from natural water sources.
Food Situation: Supermarkets in every town along the way. You’ll also encounter plenty of gas stations en-route.
(Sunny, no wind)
A second day that felt like the first! Today was the first time I would be hitting the road fully packed, slowed down and imbalanced by the literal weight of my existence. I learned a valuable lesson from the get-go, the hard way: without having cycled a single meter I tried to step on my bike, throwing my leg over the rear end as I always do… The result was an immediate face plant, as my leg couldn’t reach over the bike bags and got stuck. Off to a good start! Yet, it was an experience that put me right back in focus and painfully taught me the right technique. I dusted myself off and thanked myself for buying a second-hand. An immediate scratch on a multi-thousand new one (yup, quality touring bikes don’t come cheap) would scratch my heart and soul right with it. Now I could just shrug my shoulders and get back to business, with my clumsy nature this was bound to happen anyway (and yes, I dropped my bike a hundred times more, luckily without me on it).
From today on and for the week to follow I cycled with a partner, an ultra-runner and die-hard universal athlete who had planted the seed of this sporty escapade in the back of my brain a few months prior. Together we faced the endless sequence of hills that stretched out in front of us, a friendly reminder of what would await us in the months to follow, with only a short exemption at the flat and dusty Prairies. As a Dutchie I am definitely not new to cycling, which is, beside the main form of transport, the very corner stone of our society. Yet, our country is compact and flat as a pancake: The polar opposite of Canada. I was swept clean off my socks being faced with the ample distances and not only hills, but actual mountains of Canada’s challenging but stunning landscape. Moderate hills for now though, short but rather mean and steep, in the rolling landscape of lush and fertile Vancouver Island.
After 10km we reached the village of Crofton, which offers a post office, a few shops and a small selection of restaurants. From then on the “official route map” leads you to the highway, which is by all means not recommended. Unless you enjoy a grey, loud and rather dangerous route with deafening traffic noise and cars racing right past you with 100km/hr. When you have the opportunity to follow residential side roads, why not do so? It cannot be avoided the entire route through though, as from Ladysmith on the freeway is the only route into the rather hectic (and, in my opinion, unattractive) city of Nanaimo. A town that offers the opportunity to organize some final adjustments to your two-wheeler though, if you see the need. As to my great dissatisfaction I had discovered some cracks in the inner rim of my back wheel, I rolled into the first bike shop I passed. Where, to my great surprise, I looked right into the bright blue eyes of the man who sold me the bicycle. He turned out to be the owner of the shop! Embarrassed by this oversight (which I believed to be genuine), he offered an entire new back wheel at cost price, including a free instalment. While at it, he also threw on a new tire and installed my front rack, necessary for the attachment of a bear canister for which I had no space at the moment. I felt like the universe played its cards in setting this misfortune right. A good omen!
We spent the night in the warm and comfortable bed of a Warm Showers host: A network from and for long-distance cyclists, hosting each other in support of each other’s voyages. Not only is the use of this platform free of charge (besides a moderate sign-up cost to support the upkeep), a bed or camping spot, a warm shower and often a hearty meal are included in the exchange… as well as a valuable connection with a fellow cyclist, and the availability of the tools and gear potentially needed for your bike’s maintenance. An absolute treasure on the road!
We spent the night in the warm and comfortable bed of a Warm Showers host: A network from and for long-distance cyclists, hosting each other in support of each other’s voyages. Not only is the use of this platform free of charge (besides a moderate sign-up cost to support the upkeep), a bed or camping spot, a warm shower and often a hearty meal are included in the exchange… as well as a valuable connection with a fellow cyclist, and the availability of the tools and gear potentially needed for your bike’s maintenance. An absolute treasure on the road!
Day 3: Nanaimo – Denver Island
Distance: 100km
GPS: Official GPS. I messed up today… or at least, Wikiloc did. It kept recording my swirly route in one straight line.
Terrain: Mostly asphalt, alongside highway. There's not always a good pullover. Some stretches go over bicycle lanes, but they are bumpy because of the roots. Hills at the start, then very gradual.
Views: Forest, coast, residential areas.
Water Situation: Shops available along the way.
Food Situation: Supermarkets in every town along the way. You’ll also encounter plenty of gas stations en-route, as you’ll mainly be following the highway.
(Cloudy, rainy, no wind)
Some days of the journey are just going to be downright phenomenal. And some days, well, just also exist. Like this day. Grey, cloudy, rainy and a completely uninspiring leg along a loud and hazardous highway. It’s truly intimidating how close cars are comfortable with racing right by you. It’s moments like this when the absence of a national bicycle culture susceptibly concretizes. Unlike in my own Dutch upbringing, where every participation and action within traffic revolves around cyclists, independent of which vehicle you’re driving. In the Netherlands, cyclists are not only dominating the roads in sheer numbers, they are always in their right. Which means car drivers by default draw the shortest straw. You can be literally driving safely, following all the traffic rules flawlessly and minding your own business, and I can randomly cycle right in front of your vehicle… all what’s about to happen is your fault, as I’m the most vulnerable road user and you should have been anticipating my actions. As such, whatever you do in your car, be it parking, turning, stopping… in every movement you will have to check your mirror multiple times to assure the presence and safety of any cyclist. Now imagine an entirely opposite situation in Canada: you basically don’t exist… an annoyance at best. You are not accounted for. By truckers, yes, they’ll go out of their way to pull over to the next lane to provide space and safety. But the regular car drivers (or worse, pickup truck drivers)? Nah! They’ll brush you aside as if you were one of them Ontario mosquitoes zooming right in their ears. A sharp contrast with the otherwise mellow and hospitable nature of the average Canadian. It feels like the car-context brings up the worst in them!
Anyway, quick lil’ rant to sum up the overall vibe of the day. At least the ending was good, taking place slightly off-trail on the neighbouring Denver Island, where not only a warm bed in a private cabin, but also a shower and a filling meal accompanied by home-baked bread and apple pie was ours to enjoy. Our Warm Showers hosts weren’t only weathered biketourers full of stories and advice, they also published a book about long-distance kayaking through their original homebase in the Yukon. An inspiring encounter!
Distance: 100km
GPS: Official GPS. I messed up today… or at least, Wikiloc did. It kept recording my swirly route in one straight line.
Terrain: Mostly asphalt, alongside highway. There's not always a good pullover. Some stretches go over bicycle lanes, but they are bumpy because of the roots. Hills at the start, then very gradual.
Views: Forest, coast, residential areas.
Water Situation: Shops available along the way.
Food Situation: Supermarkets in every town along the way. You’ll also encounter plenty of gas stations en-route, as you’ll mainly be following the highway.
(Cloudy, rainy, no wind)
Some days of the journey are just going to be downright phenomenal. And some days, well, just also exist. Like this day. Grey, cloudy, rainy and a completely uninspiring leg along a loud and hazardous highway. It’s truly intimidating how close cars are comfortable with racing right by you. It’s moments like this when the absence of a national bicycle culture susceptibly concretizes. Unlike in my own Dutch upbringing, where every participation and action within traffic revolves around cyclists, independent of which vehicle you’re driving. In the Netherlands, cyclists are not only dominating the roads in sheer numbers, they are always in their right. Which means car drivers by default draw the shortest straw. You can be literally driving safely, following all the traffic rules flawlessly and minding your own business, and I can randomly cycle right in front of your vehicle… all what’s about to happen is your fault, as I’m the most vulnerable road user and you should have been anticipating my actions. As such, whatever you do in your car, be it parking, turning, stopping… in every movement you will have to check your mirror multiple times to assure the presence and safety of any cyclist. Now imagine an entirely opposite situation in Canada: you basically don’t exist… an annoyance at best. You are not accounted for. By truckers, yes, they’ll go out of their way to pull over to the next lane to provide space and safety. But the regular car drivers (or worse, pickup truck drivers)? Nah! They’ll brush you aside as if you were one of them Ontario mosquitoes zooming right in their ears. A sharp contrast with the otherwise mellow and hospitable nature of the average Canadian. It feels like the car-context brings up the worst in them!
Anyway, quick lil’ rant to sum up the overall vibe of the day. At least the ending was good, taking place slightly off-trail on the neighbouring Denver Island, where not only a warm bed in a private cabin, but also a shower and a filling meal accompanied by home-baked bread and apple pie was ours to enjoy. Our Warm Showers hosts weren’t only weathered biketourers full of stories and advice, they also published a book about long-distance kayaking through their original homebase in the Yukon. An inspiring encounter!
Day 4: Denver Island – Campbell River
Distance: 74km
GPS: All Trails. As I was still figuring out this new app as Wikiloc kept failing me, the last 20km were missing. The full route is available on the official GPS.
Terrain: Mostly asphalt. Relatively flat, only gradual hills.
Views: Forest, coast, city.
Water Situation: Shops available along the way. Filtering from some streams and the bay becomes a more plausible option as you slowly leave civilization behind.
Food Situation: Supermarkets everywhere en-route. Many options are rather expensive though.
(Sunny start, rainy rest of the day, mild wind)
Even though we were lucky enough to kick off the cycle journey right when a rather uncommon good-weather-bubble had wrapped itself around Vancouver Island, providing unusually mild climates for this time of the year, the rain cycle continued. And not only that, we even got treated on a brisk and hurtful hailstorm! An inconvenience that added to the growing soreness of my saddle pain, which took a serious turn. From bliss to blizzard, all is part of a life on the open road! Yet, gleefully I found myself leaving the densely-civilized southside area behind, while I moved into quiet, abundant forests and alongside picturesque coastlines on mainly residential roads. After my equipment was expanded with the final items of a bear canister and bear spray (both turning out to be crucial), we checked into another Warm Shower residence.
Hosted by humanitarians who set up multiple charities in Nepal, we were literally showered with a next-level approach to unlimited altruistic hospitality. To such a degree that you almost feel embarrassed to keep on receiving, unable to ever balance this out. From an ongoing stream of high-end wine and fresh local salmon (an item on my Canadian Food Bucket List!), to opulent bubble baths and a room not out of place in a 5* hotel. Not surprisingly, we gladly accepted the offer to stay an extra night once we realized we actually scheduled in too much time to reach Port Hardy on the departure day of our highly anticipated boat tour to Prince Rupert / Northern BC. The alternative was camping an extra day close to the ferry terminal, which was hard to scrape out some excitement for while experiencing a life of temporary indulgence. Even though I didn’t have it in me to fully rest on this rest day, and nevertheless pushed out another 28km on foot while exploring the town, it was pure euphoria to have my butt out of the saddle for an additional 24hrs. The battery was fully charged for the last radiant leg across the island.
Distance: 74km
GPS: All Trails. As I was still figuring out this new app as Wikiloc kept failing me, the last 20km were missing. The full route is available on the official GPS.
Terrain: Mostly asphalt. Relatively flat, only gradual hills.
Views: Forest, coast, city.
Water Situation: Shops available along the way. Filtering from some streams and the bay becomes a more plausible option as you slowly leave civilization behind.
Food Situation: Supermarkets everywhere en-route. Many options are rather expensive though.
(Sunny start, rainy rest of the day, mild wind)
Even though we were lucky enough to kick off the cycle journey right when a rather uncommon good-weather-bubble had wrapped itself around Vancouver Island, providing unusually mild climates for this time of the year, the rain cycle continued. And not only that, we even got treated on a brisk and hurtful hailstorm! An inconvenience that added to the growing soreness of my saddle pain, which took a serious turn. From bliss to blizzard, all is part of a life on the open road! Yet, gleefully I found myself leaving the densely-civilized southside area behind, while I moved into quiet, abundant forests and alongside picturesque coastlines on mainly residential roads. After my equipment was expanded with the final items of a bear canister and bear spray (both turning out to be crucial), we checked into another Warm Shower residence.
Hosted by humanitarians who set up multiple charities in Nepal, we were literally showered with a next-level approach to unlimited altruistic hospitality. To such a degree that you almost feel embarrassed to keep on receiving, unable to ever balance this out. From an ongoing stream of high-end wine and fresh local salmon (an item on my Canadian Food Bucket List!), to opulent bubble baths and a room not out of place in a 5* hotel. Not surprisingly, we gladly accepted the offer to stay an extra night once we realized we actually scheduled in too much time to reach Port Hardy on the departure day of our highly anticipated boat tour to Prince Rupert / Northern BC. The alternative was camping an extra day close to the ferry terminal, which was hard to scrape out some excitement for while experiencing a life of temporary indulgence. Even though I didn’t have it in me to fully rest on this rest day, and nevertheless pushed out another 28km on foot while exploring the town, it was pure euphoria to have my butt out of the saddle for an additional 24hrs. The battery was fully charged for the last radiant leg across the island.
Day 5: Campbell River – Sayward
Distance: 82km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt, but cracked shoulder. Steep hills.
Views: City, forest.
Water Situation: Shops available in Campbell River and Sayward. In between those towns you have the possibility to filter water from the lakes.
Food Situation: Supermarkets in Campbell River and (a small one in) Sayward. There’s a restaurant in Robert's Lake, but it was closed when I passed by. I recommend to call the Sayward supermarket in advance to verify the opening times of that day, as resupply options are limited until you reach Port Hardy. Keep in mind: No internet or phone reception outside of the towns!
(Sunny, head wind)
Still unwilling to leave our comfortable cocoon behind, it took us until late in the morning to finally peel ourselves away from Campbell River. A little bit of luxury before diving into the most challenging day so far. Not only when it comes to the strenuous inclines over poor, cracked asphalt roads, but also due to the stubborn head wind persistently pushing us backwards. All elements that were going to firmly define this entire multi-month trip from west to east… we just didn’t know that yet. So for now, at this first confrontation, it felt like an unusual battle. The upside is that it was finally time to leave civilization behind (and with that: phone reception and Wi-Fi) and experience the Canada of my daydreams: Infinite, uninterrupted nature, a sanctuary of greenery and translucent lakes… a beaver to your left and bear to your right, you know, the works. I was transmitted in the billboard poster of Canada, and my brain was too astonished to process that this was really the blissful here and now.
I cycled through a series of natural reserves and forests, such as Duncan Bay, Morton Lake Provincial Park and the Dalrymple Interpretive Forest. I chose Roberts Lake Recreation Site for my lunch break picnic, wishing that this was at the appropriate distance to end the day with… if the perfect campsite does exist, this must be most definitely it, I figured! Yet, I was about to find out that Canada is filled to the brim with excellent camping spots, so if it isn’t this one, than you’ll easily find another one in the next 30-40km. In today’s case: the Elk Creek Recreation Site, an idyllic shielded off haven with picnic benches, a toilet and even the occasional tent shelter. And the best part of all? It was entirely free of charge! Great to learn that sites like this are available in otherwise shockingly expensive Canada. This is going to be a huge budget saver!
Distance: 82km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt, but cracked shoulder. Steep hills.
Views: City, forest.
Water Situation: Shops available in Campbell River and Sayward. In between those towns you have the possibility to filter water from the lakes.
Food Situation: Supermarkets in Campbell River and (a small one in) Sayward. There’s a restaurant in Robert's Lake, but it was closed when I passed by. I recommend to call the Sayward supermarket in advance to verify the opening times of that day, as resupply options are limited until you reach Port Hardy. Keep in mind: No internet or phone reception outside of the towns!
(Sunny, head wind)
Still unwilling to leave our comfortable cocoon behind, it took us until late in the morning to finally peel ourselves away from Campbell River. A little bit of luxury before diving into the most challenging day so far. Not only when it comes to the strenuous inclines over poor, cracked asphalt roads, but also due to the stubborn head wind persistently pushing us backwards. All elements that were going to firmly define this entire multi-month trip from west to east… we just didn’t know that yet. So for now, at this first confrontation, it felt like an unusual battle. The upside is that it was finally time to leave civilization behind (and with that: phone reception and Wi-Fi) and experience the Canada of my daydreams: Infinite, uninterrupted nature, a sanctuary of greenery and translucent lakes… a beaver to your left and bear to your right, you know, the works. I was transmitted in the billboard poster of Canada, and my brain was too astonished to process that this was really the blissful here and now.
I cycled through a series of natural reserves and forests, such as Duncan Bay, Morton Lake Provincial Park and the Dalrymple Interpretive Forest. I chose Roberts Lake Recreation Site for my lunch break picnic, wishing that this was at the appropriate distance to end the day with… if the perfect campsite does exist, this must be most definitely it, I figured! Yet, I was about to find out that Canada is filled to the brim with excellent camping spots, so if it isn’t this one, than you’ll easily find another one in the next 30-40km. In today’s case: the Elk Creek Recreation Site, an idyllic shielded off haven with picnic benches, a toilet and even the occasional tent shelter. And the best part of all? It was entirely free of charge! Great to learn that sites like this are available in otherwise shockingly expensive Canada. This is going to be a huge budget saver!
Day 6: Sayward – Nimpkish
Distance: 99.1km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt. Sometimes with a pullover strip, sometimes not. Most of the day is an incline.
Views: Forest.
Water Situation: Plenty of streams and rivers, filtering is recommended. You can buy some water at a gas station in Woss and n Sayward.
Food Situation: There’s a gas station with very limited products in a small village called Woss. Supermarket in Sayward, just before the Elk Creek Recreation Site. Otherwise there’s nothing.. Keep in mind: No internet or phone reception outside of the towns!
(Sunny, headwind)
The first Canadian night in a tent was definitely a sobering experience. While during the day we kept on being treated on unusually high temperatures for the time of year, nighttime pushed the temperatures below zero, laced in an incredibly high level of humidity. For some reason, my eyes are programmed to operate as sponges in those conditions, sucking up all the moisture to the point I have to open them using both fingers. In a cycle-context, this creates a rather dangerous situation, as I’m unable to cram my contacts in, and my eyes will be leaking liquid for a solid three hours, blurring my views. However, the first 30-50km passed Rooney Lake and Eve River was going incredibly slow anyway, as the entire stretch was a vicious uphill scuffle. The first week is a training alright!
Distance: 99.1km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt. Sometimes with a pullover strip, sometimes not. Most of the day is an incline.
Views: Forest.
Water Situation: Plenty of streams and rivers, filtering is recommended. You can buy some water at a gas station in Woss and n Sayward.
Food Situation: There’s a gas station with very limited products in a small village called Woss. Supermarket in Sayward, just before the Elk Creek Recreation Site. Otherwise there’s nothing.. Keep in mind: No internet or phone reception outside of the towns!
(Sunny, headwind)
The first Canadian night in a tent was definitely a sobering experience. While during the day we kept on being treated on unusually high temperatures for the time of year, nighttime pushed the temperatures below zero, laced in an incredibly high level of humidity. For some reason, my eyes are programmed to operate as sponges in those conditions, sucking up all the moisture to the point I have to open them using both fingers. In a cycle-context, this creates a rather dangerous situation, as I’m unable to cram my contacts in, and my eyes will be leaking liquid for a solid three hours, blurring my views. However, the first 30-50km passed Rooney Lake and Eve River was going incredibly slow anyway, as the entire stretch was a vicious uphill scuffle. The first week is a training alright!
Hang in there though! Once you slammed that part out, your reward is waiting around the corner. A series of flats and even downhills is revealing itself, breezily leading you alongside the delights of Mount Juliet, Mount Romeo and Eden Mountain… utopian names that don’t leave much to the imagination. Without the distractions of Wi-Fi or phone calls, my brain took the liberty to wrap itself around a variety of thoughts. One of them being the differences between long-distance hiking (a manifested passion) and long-distance cycling (this new thing I’m suddenly and abruptly engaging in). The most noticeable difference is inevitably the pressure point, which shifted from the feet to… hmm, how do I say this kindly: my pussy. And considering I am easily dealing with ripped off skin and leaking blisters all over my battered feet, I leave it up to your own visualization in which state my poor lady parts were in. Another huge difference is the terrain: From rugged trails to asphalt (at least, for a roadbiking trip like this). Where usually asphalt is the devil, avoided like an infectious disease, now I’m craving for it. Nothing as unappealing as bumping and sliding over a rocky dirt road, especially with a red ‘n raw groin slamming on the saddle. Then of course the distance, from an average 30km a day to 70-100 (and 120-200 later in the trip). Many more impressions, yet slightly more fleeting, but still awfully more thorough and intense compared to car- or bus travel. What is the same is the overwhelming food cravings, tied to the high calorie burning with this day-long sequence of exercise. Where a woman my age and size generally needs about 2000-2500kcal a day, you can triple that now. Tiring and expensive! It feels like throwing a never ending supply of resources and money into an insatiable black hole, that persistently asks for more. It changes the entire shopping and diet experience: Where I generally try to purchase responsible, healthy and low-fat and -calorie nutrition, now my sole purpose is to find food sources with the highest density of calories in the most compact shape possible. My fav? Peanut butter, spooned right out of the jar!
After traversing the Tsitika River Ecological Reserve, the Mount Elliott Ecological Reserve and the Claud Elliott Lake Provincial Park, we finally reached the Eagles Nest Rest Area (free). A windy little corner popular among kitesurfers, and therefore less attractive for pitching a tent. Yet, this is what was available at the distance cycled, so it is what it is. Bonus points for meeting a newbie-cycle couple, sharing both their adventures, cycle grievances and hashish. Cheers.
After traversing the Tsitika River Ecological Reserve, the Mount Elliott Ecological Reserve and the Claud Elliott Lake Provincial Park, we finally reached the Eagles Nest Rest Area (free). A windy little corner popular among kitesurfers, and therefore less attractive for pitching a tent. Yet, this is what was available at the distance cycled, so it is what it is. Bonus points for meeting a newbie-cycle couple, sharing both their adventures, cycle grievances and hashish. Cheers.
Day 7: Nimpkish – Port Hardy
Distance: 79.5km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt. Sometimes with a shoulder, sometimes not. Short stretch of loose gravel after Port McNeil but that can be avoided by backtracking to the main highway (which I recommend doing).
Views: Forest, shore, lakes, city.
Water Situation: Plenty of streams and rivers, filtering is recommended. One gas station along the way and an optional supermarket in Port McNeil (detour).
Food Situation: From the Eagles Nest Rest Area in Nimpkish, it's 30km to the first gas station, which has a small shop. There's a big supermarket in Port McNeil, but you have to make a detour to visit that town. After that your next option is Port Hardy (note: the shops and accommodations are further out than the ferry terminal… if you’re gonna shop here or spend the night, you have to do some extra distance and backtrack it the next day).
(Sunny, headwind)
Today was a milestone on my cycle journey across Canada. Like, quite literally, at 352 miles (567.1km), but also as the ‘grand finale’ of Vancouver Island and the first week on two wheels. This was officially the longest I’ve ever cycled. Proudly I informed my family about my fresh accomplishment, not failing to mention that our home country has a length of just 312km and a width of 264km. Vancouver Island might seem like a small dot on the map next to the gigantic Canadian mainland, but it’s the size of an average European country. I just couldn’t believe I just did all of that, and I could believe even less what was ahead of me (I’ll tell you what: almost 9000km). What did I get myself into?
Looking around me, the answer to that was: probably Walhalla. Even though it was hard to catch my sleep in the damp chill of the night, while my tent was almost blown into the Pacific with me in it, I still was sharp enough to notice the uncanny beauty surrounding me. Pedalling against the wind I fantasized myself into some winter-version of the Jungle Book, while the sudden civilization of the town Port McNeill provided a welcome variety. It’s not exactly on the route, but this easy breezy seaport village is worth the extra clicks. While the vigorous spring-rays forced the summer freckles on my nose and cheeks, my mind swiftly switched to holiday-mode. For some reason I convinced myself that I was “almost there anyway”, while in reality I wasn’t even halfway. A grief mistake I had to pay for straight after, especially considering the plentiful uphills I was about to face. The eye-soothing rides through the Cluxewe Wildlife Area and the Misty Lake Ecological Reserve couldn’t prevent me arriving in Port Hardy utterly drained and outright grumpy. Today was a bit more than I bargained for… but hey, what is that? A soft bed and my first shower to rinse off the 3-day crust of sweat and bodyglide?
Distance: 79.5km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt. Sometimes with a shoulder, sometimes not. Short stretch of loose gravel after Port McNeil but that can be avoided by backtracking to the main highway (which I recommend doing).
Views: Forest, shore, lakes, city.
Water Situation: Plenty of streams and rivers, filtering is recommended. One gas station along the way and an optional supermarket in Port McNeil (detour).
Food Situation: From the Eagles Nest Rest Area in Nimpkish, it's 30km to the first gas station, which has a small shop. There's a big supermarket in Port McNeil, but you have to make a detour to visit that town. After that your next option is Port Hardy (note: the shops and accommodations are further out than the ferry terminal… if you’re gonna shop here or spend the night, you have to do some extra distance and backtrack it the next day).
(Sunny, headwind)
Today was a milestone on my cycle journey across Canada. Like, quite literally, at 352 miles (567.1km), but also as the ‘grand finale’ of Vancouver Island and the first week on two wheels. This was officially the longest I’ve ever cycled. Proudly I informed my family about my fresh accomplishment, not failing to mention that our home country has a length of just 312km and a width of 264km. Vancouver Island might seem like a small dot on the map next to the gigantic Canadian mainland, but it’s the size of an average European country. I just couldn’t believe I just did all of that, and I could believe even less what was ahead of me (I’ll tell you what: almost 9000km). What did I get myself into?
Looking around me, the answer to that was: probably Walhalla. Even though it was hard to catch my sleep in the damp chill of the night, while my tent was almost blown into the Pacific with me in it, I still was sharp enough to notice the uncanny beauty surrounding me. Pedalling against the wind I fantasized myself into some winter-version of the Jungle Book, while the sudden civilization of the town Port McNeill provided a welcome variety. It’s not exactly on the route, but this easy breezy seaport village is worth the extra clicks. While the vigorous spring-rays forced the summer freckles on my nose and cheeks, my mind swiftly switched to holiday-mode. For some reason I convinced myself that I was “almost there anyway”, while in reality I wasn’t even halfway. A grief mistake I had to pay for straight after, especially considering the plentiful uphills I was about to face. The eye-soothing rides through the Cluxewe Wildlife Area and the Misty Lake Ecological Reserve couldn’t prevent me arriving in Port Hardy utterly drained and outright grumpy. Today was a bit more than I bargained for… but hey, what is that? A soft bed and my first shower to rinse off the 3-day crust of sweat and bodyglide?
After Vancouver Island: 7 days, 567.1km (+13km up and down the centre and ferry)
BC Ferries: Port Hardy – Prince Rupert
We made it. Vancouver Island is a wrap, but the adventure is just beginning. Whereas many cross-country cyclists seem to start their ambitious endeavour from Vancouver eastwards, that scratches off what turned out to be one of the undisputed highlights of the entire 9,500km across Canada. The whole country is one stretched out celebration of unblemished nature and earthly treasures, but if I have to elect Canada’s graceful queen, Northern BC takes that crown. A crown glistering from gleaming sunrays reflected off emerald lakes and crips virgin mountain tops. The Canada out of the daydreams of a little Dutch girl in the early 90’s, who glanced at the photos in the National Geographic Magazines of her village library, making little folds in the page corners of every place she hoped to get to one day… most of them in some distant lands called Switzerland, New Zealand and Canada. Mainly Canada.
That little girl was turning 37 this year, and she was cycling to the ferry that would bring her to the landscapes that had only existed in her wildest imagination up until then. I know, in the most technical sense of the word I was about to embark on a straightforward ferry ride, efficiently transporting me from Point A to Point B… yet, reading in between the lines I had signed up for an experience, a journey providing an exciting glimpse into the unspoilt coast of the northern Pacific, dotted by innumerable islands floating undisturbedly in protected conservancies and marine parks, like a faded aquarelle painting.* Uninhabited and uninhabitable, shortly inhabited by the gazes of those on the vessel passing through. It was misty that day, contributing to the mystique of this foreign world of green, grey and a hint of blue. I tried to comprehend the endless water, tied around our Earth, sending clouds into the sky. I felt like I was starring in an Enya videoclip, tucked into a warm blanket on the deck while reading the tales of Lovecraft.. its ambience enforced by this dreamscape.
Mother Nature truly felt inspired that day, when she shook this astounding stretch of earth out of her long green sleeve. If that wasn’t enough, I heard the captain announce that northern lights are likely to be witnessed that night, whereas orcas and whales are common visitors during the daylight hours. I shook my head and walked to my cabin. Staring deeply into the reflection of the bathroom mirror I try to trace down that little girl who got lost in time somehow. She must know that we made it, she made it. Life will be kind to her.
* Kitson Island Marine Provincial Park, Pa-aat Conservancy, Lowe Inlet Marine Provincial Park, K'Mooda/Lowe-Gamble Conservancy, Union Passage Marine Provincial Park, Maxtaktsm'aa/Union Passage Conservancy, K'distsausk/Turtle Point Conservancy, Moksgm'ol/Chapple–Cornwall Conservancy, K'lgaan/Klekane Conservancy
BC Ferries: Port Hardy – Prince Rupert
We made it. Vancouver Island is a wrap, but the adventure is just beginning. Whereas many cross-country cyclists seem to start their ambitious endeavour from Vancouver eastwards, that scratches off what turned out to be one of the undisputed highlights of the entire 9,500km across Canada. The whole country is one stretched out celebration of unblemished nature and earthly treasures, but if I have to elect Canada’s graceful queen, Northern BC takes that crown. A crown glistering from gleaming sunrays reflected off emerald lakes and crips virgin mountain tops. The Canada out of the daydreams of a little Dutch girl in the early 90’s, who glanced at the photos in the National Geographic Magazines of her village library, making little folds in the page corners of every place she hoped to get to one day… most of them in some distant lands called Switzerland, New Zealand and Canada. Mainly Canada.
That little girl was turning 37 this year, and she was cycling to the ferry that would bring her to the landscapes that had only existed in her wildest imagination up until then. I know, in the most technical sense of the word I was about to embark on a straightforward ferry ride, efficiently transporting me from Point A to Point B… yet, reading in between the lines I had signed up for an experience, a journey providing an exciting glimpse into the unspoilt coast of the northern Pacific, dotted by innumerable islands floating undisturbedly in protected conservancies and marine parks, like a faded aquarelle painting.* Uninhabited and uninhabitable, shortly inhabited by the gazes of those on the vessel passing through. It was misty that day, contributing to the mystique of this foreign world of green, grey and a hint of blue. I tried to comprehend the endless water, tied around our Earth, sending clouds into the sky. I felt like I was starring in an Enya videoclip, tucked into a warm blanket on the deck while reading the tales of Lovecraft.. its ambience enforced by this dreamscape.
Mother Nature truly felt inspired that day, when she shook this astounding stretch of earth out of her long green sleeve. If that wasn’t enough, I heard the captain announce that northern lights are likely to be witnessed that night, whereas orcas and whales are common visitors during the daylight hours. I shook my head and walked to my cabin. Staring deeply into the reflection of the bathroom mirror I try to trace down that little girl who got lost in time somehow. She must know that we made it, she made it. Life will be kind to her.
* Kitson Island Marine Provincial Park, Pa-aat Conservancy, Lowe Inlet Marine Provincial Park, K'Mooda/Lowe-Gamble Conservancy, Union Passage Marine Provincial Park, Maxtaktsm'aa/Union Passage Conservancy, K'distsausk/Turtle Point Conservancy, Moksgm'ol/Chapple–Cornwall Conservancy, K'lgaan/Klekane Conservancy
BC Ferries offers various services in British Columbia, including the popular routes leaving from and to Vancouver. However, its most iconic journey is most probably the overnight commute from Port Hardy (Northern Vancouver Island) to Prince Rupert (Northern BC). The trip takes about 15 hours, taking place on a comfortable boat catering to all your en-route needs: comfortable indoor and outdoor seating, private en-suite cabins (at an extra fee), showers and even a restaurant with surprisingly affordable prices.
Quick Budget Fact Overview
Canada Facts
Short History Recap
Ice Age: First humans migrate from Asia. 11th century: Norse establish first known European settlement on Newfoundland island. 1583: Newfoundland England's first overseas colony. 1701: 38 indigenous groups sign peace treaty with France. ’56: Seven Years' War between New France and larger / economically-stronger British colonies. ’63: Treaty of Paris → England acquires all French colonies east of the Mississippi incl. New France (becomes Quebec). ‘74: Quebec Act recognises French language & Roman Catholic religion. ‘76 onwards: Refugees from American War of Independence settle in Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, Quebec & Ontario. 1800s: Immigration from UK. ’37-38: Armed rebellions, dissatisfaction with ruling elites, poverty and social divisions. ’67: British North America Act → unites Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia and New Brunswick in Dominion of Canada. ’85: Canadian Pacific railroad. 1914: WWI → Canada fights on side of England and France. ’39: WWII → Canadian forces in Europe and Atlantic. ’49: Founder member of Nato. ’50: Canada/UN participates in War in Korea. ’65: New flag. ’70: Front de Liberation du Quebec kidnap an English trade official and murder a Quebec minister. ’82: England transfers final legal powers over to Canada. New constitution. ’91: Canadian forces participate in Gulf War. ’92: Canada, US & Mexico finalise North American Free Trade Agreement (Nafta). ’95: Referendum in Quebec rejects independence by a margin of 1%. ’99: Territory of Nunavut created in northern Canada (self-governing region with majority of indigenous population). 2002: Troops in Afghanistan. ’10: Winter Olympics. ’14: Mission to map Arctic seabed, in support of bid to extend territory up to North Pole. ’16: Free trade agreement with EU. ’17: Promised compensation to indigenous people who were kidnapped to be brought up by primarily white middle-class families. New trade deal replacing Nafta.
Canada Facts
- Capital: Ottawa
- Language: English, French
- Population: ± 39 mln (Ottawa: 1.76mln)
- Sq km: ± 9.985 (Montreal: 365)
- Currency: Canadian Dollar ($ - CAD)
- Electricity Outlet: A + B / 120 V / 60 Hz. Check here.
- Country Code Phone: +1
- Emergency Phone: 911
- Visa: Some countries need to apply for a visa, which can be done here or here.The ones that don’t need to apply for a visa waiver, called an ETA, which is a very cheap and fast process.
- Vaccinations: None.
- Climate: The country is so huge, that we’re dealing with several climate zones. The far north has a Tundra Climate (ET). Below that a zone of Subarctic Climate (Dfc), with patches of Dwc and Dsc. The southern stretch along the US border is mainly Humid Continental (Dfb), with patches of Temperate Oceanic (Cfb).
- High season: June-September. Summer is most pleasant due to the harsh climates in the colder seasons.
Short History Recap
Ice Age: First humans migrate from Asia. 11th century: Norse establish first known European settlement on Newfoundland island. 1583: Newfoundland England's first overseas colony. 1701: 38 indigenous groups sign peace treaty with France. ’56: Seven Years' War between New France and larger / economically-stronger British colonies. ’63: Treaty of Paris → England acquires all French colonies east of the Mississippi incl. New France (becomes Quebec). ‘74: Quebec Act recognises French language & Roman Catholic religion. ‘76 onwards: Refugees from American War of Independence settle in Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, Quebec & Ontario. 1800s: Immigration from UK. ’37-38: Armed rebellions, dissatisfaction with ruling elites, poverty and social divisions. ’67: British North America Act → unites Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia and New Brunswick in Dominion of Canada. ’85: Canadian Pacific railroad. 1914: WWI → Canada fights on side of England and France. ’39: WWII → Canadian forces in Europe and Atlantic. ’49: Founder member of Nato. ’50: Canada/UN participates in War in Korea. ’65: New flag. ’70: Front de Liberation du Quebec kidnap an English trade official and murder a Quebec minister. ’82: England transfers final legal powers over to Canada. New constitution. ’91: Canadian forces participate in Gulf War. ’92: Canada, US & Mexico finalise North American Free Trade Agreement (Nafta). ’95: Referendum in Quebec rejects independence by a margin of 1%. ’99: Territory of Nunavut created in northern Canada (self-governing region with majority of indigenous population). 2002: Troops in Afghanistan. ’10: Winter Olympics. ’14: Mission to map Arctic seabed, in support of bid to extend territory up to North Pole. ’16: Free trade agreement with EU. ’17: Promised compensation to indigenous people who were kidnapped to be brought up by primarily white middle-class families. New trade deal replacing Nafta.
Budget Bites
Sleep Cheap
- Main Supermarket Chains Canada: Sobeys, Metro, Walmart, No Frills, Foodland, Maxi, Your Independent Grocer, Real Canadian Superstore, Safeway.
- Local Dishes: Poutine (fries with cheese curds and gravy), Tourtiere (meat pie), Wild Pacific Salmon, Pate Chinois (layered ground beef, cream corn and mashed potato), Alberta Beef, Rappie Pie (grated potatoes pattie with pork fat, sea food and ground meat), Hodge Podge (vegetable/potato stew), Yukon Reindeer, Caraquets (oysters), Nova Scotia / Newfoundland Lobster, Fish and Brewis (hard biscuits mixed with cod or pork), Pealmeal Bacon (broiled lean pork loin), Split Pea Soup (incl. pork), Jiggs Dinner (beef, greens and split pea pudding), Fiddle Heads (cooked rolled fern leaves), Bannock (typical bread), Beavertails (deepfried bread with sweet toppings / Canadian donut), Montreal Bagel (boiled in honeyed water), Trempettes (crispy sweet pancakes), Touton (thick pancake), Cipaille (meat pie), Maple Taffy / Tire d’Erable (maple syrup frozen over snow), Butter Tarts (pastry), Saskatoon Berry Pie, Nanaimo Bars (crumb-custard-chocolate cake), Pouding Chomeur (cake with hot syrup), Cretons (pork spread), Oreilles de Crisses (deepfried pork rinds).
- The Veg Situation: Going veg is not so complicated in Canada, as vegetarianism and veganism is widely accepted. Most supermarkets contain veg products, be it very processed at times. Veg restaurants can be found here.
- National Drink: Ceasar Cocktail (Canadian bloody mary, sometimes with food hanging off of it), beer, wine.
Sleep Cheap
- Hostels / Hotels / Guesthouses: You probably knew already, before even booking your trip, that visiting Canada isn’t cheap. This goes for accommodation as well. Without being paid to say so, I love Booking.com: They have the biggest selection, are transparent about the final price and have an efficient search engine tailored to your specific needs (cheapest first!). If you use it often enough, Genius-discounts are applied. Air BnB is not what it used to be, price-wise, but in Canada they usually offer cheaper stays than in hotels or even hostels. Be mindful of the additional booking and cleaning costs though, as they can really add up. Writer’s Choice: In Vancouver Island I mainly stayed with hosts of the Warm Showers network. A few nights I camped at free campsites. In Port Hardy I booked a room via Booking.com.
- Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost (unless you put a third-world country as homebase), but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate review explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored). The Couchsurfing community in Canada definitely is a rather active one, incl. events organized in most of the cities. If your’re biketouring you can also look into Warm Showers, which is a bikepacking community focussing primarily on 1-night stays.
- Wild Camping: is officially legal in Canada. You can pitch your tent anywhere on crown land and you’ll even be abe to find free camping spots. The WikiCamps App Canada is extremely useful for finding these, with community reviews. If public land is scarce, you can ask permission to camp on someone’s private land. Canadians are very kind and hospitable and will likely allow you to do so. In national and provincial parks camping is only allowed on designated campsites or with a permit, and you’ll have to pay a nightly fee (wild camping in these areas is heavily fined).
Mama Said
Transport
Next?
- Safety: Canada is a very safe country with a low crime rate. Outside of the main cities, I met people who don’t lock their houses or cars. In nature, there are several wide animals to take into account, including black bears, grizzly bears, rattle snakes, coyotes, lynxes and cougars.
- Tap Water: is safe to drink.
- The best credit/debit card for traveling is Wise, as they use the live conversion rates with minimal exchange fees. Wise also has the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. That said, I do find their customer service rather questionable. Revolut is comparable, but they have higher exchange fees in the weekend and less wallet-options. Also, you can only wire money to Revolut in the currency you opened the account with, whereas Wise has IBAN’s from a wide variety of currencies, so you don’t have to pay a double exchange fee. Both Revolut and Wise have the option to open a Canadian Dollar wallet. Most Canadian ATMs charge a fee for cash outs, but card payments are accepted everywhere.
- Simcard: Data is known to be incredibly expensive in Canada, with one of the highest rate-per-gb in the world. Prices are even higher if you buy your SIM at the airport. Therefore, either go to the flagship stores to buy a sim (yes, you also pay seperately for the sim, without anything on it), or simply buy one in supermarkets, post offices, gas stations and even in the Dollarama. You can then add credit or a bundle online or via the app. The brands with the cheapest deals are known to be Lucky Mobile, Chatr, Koodo Mobile and Fido (although still terrible money-worth compared to basically everywhere else in the world). The best network coverage is known to be by Telus, Bell and Rogers. If your phone supports eSims, this might be worth looking into, as it’s in most cases more affordable. I used Lucky Mobile which had the cheapest data packages (sim bought in Dollarama), and noticed I had a similar coverage compared to any of the more expensive brands.
Transport
- Walking: Montreal is a pedestrian friendly city. Yet, as it’s rather big, alternative transport from neighbourhood to neighbourhood might be recommended.
- Cycling: Montreal has 1065km of bicycle lanes. Find a map here. There’s a bikesharing system called BIXI, which charges an unlocking fee and a rate-per-minute.
- Public Transport: Montreal has buses and an efficient metro system. You can pay per ride (incl. 1 transfer to bus) or 2 rides, or get a 3-day, unlimited evening, unlimited weekend or week ticket. Oddly enough, the week ticket runs from Monday to Sunday, so if you buy it on a Sunday it only works one day. The weekend ticket starts Friday 4PM. You can pay at the ticket machines, at the metro desks or get an Opus Card. Buses also sell tickets. Children travel free.
- Taxi / Uber: Canada has taxi apps such as Uber, Lyft and Zoomzoom. Car2Go is a car sharing app.
- Train: Canada has a train network operated by Via Rail, but this is a notoriously expensive option (generally double the bus prices, which are also not cheap). Book as early as possible and buy tickets on Tuesday to save some money. There’s a train line to the suburbs as well, called Exo.
- Car Rental: This is not a cheap endeavour in Canada. However, the best deals can generally be found when the car is picked up from an airport.
- Airport: Montreal Pierre Elliott Trudeau International Airport. Reached by Bus 747 (special ticket needed) runs 24/7.
- Hitchhiking: is relatively safe and easy in Canada, but definitively not common. Don’t bother with the ride-share websites or Facebook groups, as people dare to ask more than the bus and even train tickets. More info on hitchhiking in and out of Montreal can be found on Hitchwiki.
Next?
- In Canada: British Columbia.
- International Destinations Close By: United States, Greenland.
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