Tour d'Hollande
Having successfully traversed the vast expanse of Canada by bicycle last summer, a distance of a whooping 9000 kilometres, I reasoned that a similar undertaking within the Netherlands would pose no significant challenge. Thus, during a recent sojourn back home, I conceived a cycling tour (how very Dutch of me). A loop meticulously planned to intersect with esteemed friends and family while simultaneously exploring previously uncharted corners of my homeland. While the flatter-than-a-pancake-flat Netherlands may lack the imposing mountain ranges and sheer scale of even a minor Canadian province, this journey promised a unique trial: a relentless wind, an invisible foe that, with infuriating consistency, battered me for ten out of eleven days, turning what should have been a leisurely exploration into a true test of determination and resilience.
A true Tour d’Hollande… join me on two wheels:
A true Tour d’Hollande… join me on two wheels:
Too busy to read now? No problem, save it for later!
Save on Get Pocket | Save in Browser Bookmarks| Save on Instapaper
Save on Get Pocket | Save in Browser Bookmarks| Save on Instapaper
Day 1: Halsteren - Terneuzen
Distance: 92.6km.
Terrain: Flat, dykes, cycle lanes.
Resupply: All along the way. Halsteren, Bergen op zoom, Lillo, Kieldrecht / Nieuw-Namen, Hengstdijk, Terneuzen.
Ferry: Lillo (€1 / 2025).
Provinces: Brabant, Zeeland (Zeeuws Vlaanderen).
Weather: Sunny, warm. Sidewind southwards, headwind westwards.
My undertaking began in the humble village of Halsteren, North Brabant, the very place I first drew breath, and as such followed a course through familiar Dutch landscapes I traversed for a literal lifetime until I reached the Belgian border. Just north of Antwerp, I boarded a small ferry, a prelude to a cherished personal tradition: indulging in a refreshing Kriek, a Belgian cherry beer, consumed in the quaint border town of Kieldrecht, where the pace of life seems blissfully detached from modern transactions (ergo: card payments impossible).
Back on Dutch terrain, I ventured into Zeeuws Vlaanderen, the southernmost part of the Zeeland province. It’s a region with a curious history, once inspiring the Dutch explorer Abel Tasman to bestow its name upon a distant land – perhaps you've heard of eh… New Zealand? I pedalled passed het Verdronken Land (Drowned Land) van Saeftinghe. It holds a unique and captivating place in the annals of European coastal history. More than just a picturesque landscape of mudflats and tidal creeks, Saeftinghe is a poignant reminder of the relentless power of the sea and the fragility of human endeavor. This region, now a protected nature reserve, was once a thriving area of villages and cultivated lands, swallowed by a series of devastating floods over the centuries. From here, I was slowly but surely approaching my end destination of the day: Terneuzen, a town steeped in personal history as the former residence of my grandparents. I was warmly welcomed by my cousins, who still reside there, continuing the thread of connection to my past.
Distance: 92.6km.
Terrain: Flat, dykes, cycle lanes.
Resupply: All along the way. Halsteren, Bergen op zoom, Lillo, Kieldrecht / Nieuw-Namen, Hengstdijk, Terneuzen.
Ferry: Lillo (€1 / 2025).
Provinces: Brabant, Zeeland (Zeeuws Vlaanderen).
Weather: Sunny, warm. Sidewind southwards, headwind westwards.
My undertaking began in the humble village of Halsteren, North Brabant, the very place I first drew breath, and as such followed a course through familiar Dutch landscapes I traversed for a literal lifetime until I reached the Belgian border. Just north of Antwerp, I boarded a small ferry, a prelude to a cherished personal tradition: indulging in a refreshing Kriek, a Belgian cherry beer, consumed in the quaint border town of Kieldrecht, where the pace of life seems blissfully detached from modern transactions (ergo: card payments impossible).
Back on Dutch terrain, I ventured into Zeeuws Vlaanderen, the southernmost part of the Zeeland province. It’s a region with a curious history, once inspiring the Dutch explorer Abel Tasman to bestow its name upon a distant land – perhaps you've heard of eh… New Zealand? I pedalled passed het Verdronken Land (Drowned Land) van Saeftinghe. It holds a unique and captivating place in the annals of European coastal history. More than just a picturesque landscape of mudflats and tidal creeks, Saeftinghe is a poignant reminder of the relentless power of the sea and the fragility of human endeavor. This region, now a protected nature reserve, was once a thriving area of villages and cultivated lands, swallowed by a series of devastating floods over the centuries. From here, I was slowly but surely approaching my end destination of the day: Terneuzen, a town steeped in personal history as the former residence of my grandparents. I was warmly welcomed by my cousins, who still reside there, continuing the thread of connection to my past.
|
|
|
Day 2: Terneuzen – Rotterdam
Distance: 144.1km.
Terrain: Flat, dykes, cycle lanes.
Resupply: Plenty. Terneuzen, Breskens, Vlissingen, Middelburg, Burgh-Haamstede, Renesse, Ouddorp, Stellendam, Hellevoetsluis, Rozenburg, Maassluis, Spijkenisse, Vlaardingen, Rotterdam.
Ferry: Breskens-Vlissingen (€7.60 / 2025), Rozenburg-Maassluis (€1.02 / 2025).
Provinces: Zeeland (Zeeuws Vlaanderen, Midden-Zeeland, Schouwen Duiveland), Zuid-Holland (Goeree Overflakkee).
Weather: Sunny, warm. Strong headwind all the way northwards.
The second day dawned early in Terneuzen, rousing me from a comfortable slumber at my cousin's house. A fortifying breakfast fueled the morning's ambition: to conquer Zeeland's western edge. But first I had to race along the dykes towards Breskens, from where the ferry to Vlissingen departs. My route led me right across our "closure dykes," those monumental barriers, Neeltje Jans among them, that stand as silent sentinels against the North Sea's relentless advance. These are not mere embankments or “interesting landmarks”, but the very bulwarks that uphold the Netherlands. Without them, the Netherlands would be the North Sea. In fact, today I was cycling below sea level for the majority of the time. Being absolutely slaughtered by the relentless headwind that seemed determined to thwart my progress, I persevered across the islands of Midden-Zeeland, Schouwen-Duiveland and Goeree-Overflakkee. The latter being a part of the province of South Holland, "above the rivers", which in my region is slang for the boring people that don't celebrate carnaval.
One last ferry, from Rozenburg to Maassluis, and I pedalled wearily eastward towards the world famous harbour city of Rotterdam. I stumbled into the town’s edges around 9pm, well behind schedule. The day’s tally: a staggering 144 kilometres, each one seemingly amplified by the antagonistic wind. It was a truly exhausting experience, the kind that leaves one feeling thoroughly depleted. My Couchsurfing host, a delightful woman with a harbor-view apartment in the city centre, greeted me with a much-appreciated dinner. Cycling on tour doubles fuel consumption, so naturally slamming in family-sized portions also becomes a habit. We shared engaging conversation before I succumbed to an immediate, dreamless coma-sleep the second my head hit the pillow.
Distance: 144.1km.
Terrain: Flat, dykes, cycle lanes.
Resupply: Plenty. Terneuzen, Breskens, Vlissingen, Middelburg, Burgh-Haamstede, Renesse, Ouddorp, Stellendam, Hellevoetsluis, Rozenburg, Maassluis, Spijkenisse, Vlaardingen, Rotterdam.
Ferry: Breskens-Vlissingen (€7.60 / 2025), Rozenburg-Maassluis (€1.02 / 2025).
Provinces: Zeeland (Zeeuws Vlaanderen, Midden-Zeeland, Schouwen Duiveland), Zuid-Holland (Goeree Overflakkee).
Weather: Sunny, warm. Strong headwind all the way northwards.
The second day dawned early in Terneuzen, rousing me from a comfortable slumber at my cousin's house. A fortifying breakfast fueled the morning's ambition: to conquer Zeeland's western edge. But first I had to race along the dykes towards Breskens, from where the ferry to Vlissingen departs. My route led me right across our "closure dykes," those monumental barriers, Neeltje Jans among them, that stand as silent sentinels against the North Sea's relentless advance. These are not mere embankments or “interesting landmarks”, but the very bulwarks that uphold the Netherlands. Without them, the Netherlands would be the North Sea. In fact, today I was cycling below sea level for the majority of the time. Being absolutely slaughtered by the relentless headwind that seemed determined to thwart my progress, I persevered across the islands of Midden-Zeeland, Schouwen-Duiveland and Goeree-Overflakkee. The latter being a part of the province of South Holland, "above the rivers", which in my region is slang for the boring people that don't celebrate carnaval.
One last ferry, from Rozenburg to Maassluis, and I pedalled wearily eastward towards the world famous harbour city of Rotterdam. I stumbled into the town’s edges around 9pm, well behind schedule. The day’s tally: a staggering 144 kilometres, each one seemingly amplified by the antagonistic wind. It was a truly exhausting experience, the kind that leaves one feeling thoroughly depleted. My Couchsurfing host, a delightful woman with a harbor-view apartment in the city centre, greeted me with a much-appreciated dinner. Cycling on tour doubles fuel consumption, so naturally slamming in family-sized portions also becomes a habit. We shared engaging conversation before I succumbed to an immediate, dreamless coma-sleep the second my head hit the pillow.
|
|
|
Day 3: Rotterdam – Maarssen
Distance: 70.3km.
Terrain: Flat, cycle paths, cities.
Resupply: Rotterdam, Gouda, Montfoort, Nieuwegein, Utrecht, Maarssen.
Provinces: Zuid Holland, Utrecht.
Weather: Sunny, warm. Mild headwind.
The new morning demanded an early start, and not just for the stunning sunrises over flat polder landscapes. I rose to meet Constant, my old university roommate, for a caffeine-fueled catch-up before his workday in Rotterdam began. A stark contrast to my current, more leisurely lifestyle. A swift 65km cycle then ensued, straight to the city (and province) of Utrecht, for yet another rendezvous. This time with Floris, a friend and former soulmate that lived in the same house as Constand and I. En route, I zipped past Gouda, which is indeed a real place and not just a dairy product of global renown. Forsaking my usual slower-paced exploration via the Netherlands' intricate cycling node network (the densest conglomeration of cycle routes worldwide), I this time relied on Google Maps for a direct route, prioritizing speed over scenic meandering. Utrecht, one of my favorite Dutch cities I will always keep returning to, provided a delightful backdrop for my midday meal and a laidback regain of energy. With only half a day allotted to cycling, I indulged in the city's atmosphere and the truly unusually warm summer weather. Unheard of in April!
From there, a mere 10km northward jaunt brought me to Maarssen, where Lauressa, yet another dear friend from my student era, resides. It's a testament to the swift passage of time, and perhaps a personal quirk, that I'm still adjusting to the reality that they're all parents now. We may be careening towards our forties, but in my mind, we're forever young, navigating life's absurdities with the same wide-eyed enthusiasm as we did in our student days.
Distance: 70.3km.
Terrain: Flat, cycle paths, cities.
Resupply: Rotterdam, Gouda, Montfoort, Nieuwegein, Utrecht, Maarssen.
Provinces: Zuid Holland, Utrecht.
Weather: Sunny, warm. Mild headwind.
The new morning demanded an early start, and not just for the stunning sunrises over flat polder landscapes. I rose to meet Constant, my old university roommate, for a caffeine-fueled catch-up before his workday in Rotterdam began. A stark contrast to my current, more leisurely lifestyle. A swift 65km cycle then ensued, straight to the city (and province) of Utrecht, for yet another rendezvous. This time with Floris, a friend and former soulmate that lived in the same house as Constand and I. En route, I zipped past Gouda, which is indeed a real place and not just a dairy product of global renown. Forsaking my usual slower-paced exploration via the Netherlands' intricate cycling node network (the densest conglomeration of cycle routes worldwide), I this time relied on Google Maps for a direct route, prioritizing speed over scenic meandering. Utrecht, one of my favorite Dutch cities I will always keep returning to, provided a delightful backdrop for my midday meal and a laidback regain of energy. With only half a day allotted to cycling, I indulged in the city's atmosphere and the truly unusually warm summer weather. Unheard of in April!
From there, a mere 10km northward jaunt brought me to Maarssen, where Lauressa, yet another dear friend from my student era, resides. It's a testament to the swift passage of time, and perhaps a personal quirk, that I'm still adjusting to the reality that they're all parents now. We may be careening towards our forties, but in my mind, we're forever young, navigating life's absurdities with the same wide-eyed enthusiasm as we did in our student days.
|
|
|
Day 4: Maarssen - Pingjum
Distance: 122.8km.
Terrain: Mainly cycle paths, some roads.
Resupply: Maarssen, Amsterdam, Purmerend, Oosthuizen, Hoorn, Wognum, Medemblik, Den Oever.
Provinces: Utrecht, Noord-Holland, Friesland.
Weather: Sunny, warm. Headwind all the way (brutal at the Afsluitdijk).
Leaving the province of Utrecht in my wake, I set my sights on Noord-Holland and a one-on-one with the Afsluitdijk. This monumental 32-kilometer dam and causeway, a testament to Dutch ingenuity constructed in the early 20th century, stands as a bastion against the sea. While typically traversable by bicycle, current efforts to fortify the dike against the rising tides of climate change meant an almost entire closure when cycling it from west to east. A mere 5km are cyclable, while the rest has to be traversed by the means of a (free) cycle bus. One problem: Off season (I was on the last day of it), the last one departed at 4:30-5PM. But in between me and that bus stop a demanding 110-kilometer ride lay ahead, made all the more challenging by, once again, a relentless headwind. I bypassed the capital chaos of Amsterdam and tourist-laden Volendam, choosing instead to skirt their edges and weave through the quintessential Dutch landscapes in between Purmerend, Hoorn and Den Oever, passing verdant countryside dotted with tulips, contented cows, and every now and then the iconic windmill.
I reached the Afsluitdijk crusted in sweat, with bleeding arms and knees (welcome to my life: of course I slipped and crashed), but with an hour to spare. Maybe the impossibility to cycle it was a divine intervention, as over the dyke I wouldn't be facing a headwind but a head storm. Those 5km took almost an hour, it felt like I was standing still, leaning into the wind. My daily cycle journey reached its conclusion in the province of Friesland, in the obscure village of Pingjum, where I found myself welcomed by Annelies, a fellow cyclist and gifted visual artist. Her home seemed like a sophisticated folklore and art museum. For the first time in my life I slept in a classic "bed stee", a typically Dutch old-world sleeping closet I only know from tales of my grandmother.
Distance: 122.8km.
Terrain: Mainly cycle paths, some roads.
Resupply: Maarssen, Amsterdam, Purmerend, Oosthuizen, Hoorn, Wognum, Medemblik, Den Oever.
Provinces: Utrecht, Noord-Holland, Friesland.
Weather: Sunny, warm. Headwind all the way (brutal at the Afsluitdijk).
Leaving the province of Utrecht in my wake, I set my sights on Noord-Holland and a one-on-one with the Afsluitdijk. This monumental 32-kilometer dam and causeway, a testament to Dutch ingenuity constructed in the early 20th century, stands as a bastion against the sea. While typically traversable by bicycle, current efforts to fortify the dike against the rising tides of climate change meant an almost entire closure when cycling it from west to east. A mere 5km are cyclable, while the rest has to be traversed by the means of a (free) cycle bus. One problem: Off season (I was on the last day of it), the last one departed at 4:30-5PM. But in between me and that bus stop a demanding 110-kilometer ride lay ahead, made all the more challenging by, once again, a relentless headwind. I bypassed the capital chaos of Amsterdam and tourist-laden Volendam, choosing instead to skirt their edges and weave through the quintessential Dutch landscapes in between Purmerend, Hoorn and Den Oever, passing verdant countryside dotted with tulips, contented cows, and every now and then the iconic windmill.
I reached the Afsluitdijk crusted in sweat, with bleeding arms and knees (welcome to my life: of course I slipped and crashed), but with an hour to spare. Maybe the impossibility to cycle it was a divine intervention, as over the dyke I wouldn't be facing a headwind but a head storm. Those 5km took almost an hour, it felt like I was standing still, leaning into the wind. My daily cycle journey reached its conclusion in the province of Friesland, in the obscure village of Pingjum, where I found myself welcomed by Annelies, a fellow cyclist and gifted visual artist. Her home seemed like a sophisticated folklore and art museum. For the first time in my life I slept in a classic "bed stee", a typically Dutch old-world sleeping closet I only know from tales of my grandmother.
|
|
|
Day 5: Pingjum - Ameland
Distance: 77.5km.
Terrain: Mainly cycle paths, some roads.
Resupply: Achlum, Franeker, Dronryp, Ferwert, Holwerd & Nes (Ameland).
Provinces: Friesland.
Weather: Sunny, very warm. Sidewind.
The following day, I was once again keeping a close eye on the clock, needing to cover approximately 60km before 11AM to catch yet another ferry. This leg involved cycling through the tranquil landscapes of Friesland, a region of endless countryside, only occasionally punctuated by charming villages I never knew existed. Friesland's history is rich, once an independent kingdom and later a powerful maritime force during the Middle Ages, resisting feudal lords and maintaining a unique level of autonomy for centuries. Maybe it’s because of this that Frisians are known to be particularly proud people with their own distinct culture and mentality. They even possess their own language alongside Dutch… though alas, I remain linguistically challenged in that regard.
Reaching the ferry with only minutes to spare, I embarked on my little voyage to Ameland, one of the five Dutch Wadden Islands. These islands, a string of sandy jewels strung along the northern coast, possess a history as fluid and dynamic as the tides that shape them. Once a continuous stretch of land, the North Sea, with the help of human intervention, carved them into the individual islands we know today. For centuries, these islands were a world apart, their inhabitants hardy seafarers and farmers who wrested a living from a challenging environment. They developed unique dialects and customs, fiercely independent and deeply connected to the rhythms of the sea. Fortunes rose and fell with shipwrecks and whaling expeditions, and the islands served as strategic points of defence, witnessing battles and occupations throughout European history. Today, while tourism fuels their economy, remnants of their rich past remain visible in the villages, maritime museums, and the enduring spirit of the islanders, a testament to their resilience against the tides of time. Having never visited before (and finding that many Dutch locals share this unfamiliarity), I seized the opportunity to explore Ameland by bike.
Distance: 77.5km.
Terrain: Mainly cycle paths, some roads.
Resupply: Achlum, Franeker, Dronryp, Ferwert, Holwerd & Nes (Ameland).
Provinces: Friesland.
Weather: Sunny, very warm. Sidewind.
The following day, I was once again keeping a close eye on the clock, needing to cover approximately 60km before 11AM to catch yet another ferry. This leg involved cycling through the tranquil landscapes of Friesland, a region of endless countryside, only occasionally punctuated by charming villages I never knew existed. Friesland's history is rich, once an independent kingdom and later a powerful maritime force during the Middle Ages, resisting feudal lords and maintaining a unique level of autonomy for centuries. Maybe it’s because of this that Frisians are known to be particularly proud people with their own distinct culture and mentality. They even possess their own language alongside Dutch… though alas, I remain linguistically challenged in that regard.
Reaching the ferry with only minutes to spare, I embarked on my little voyage to Ameland, one of the five Dutch Wadden Islands. These islands, a string of sandy jewels strung along the northern coast, possess a history as fluid and dynamic as the tides that shape them. Once a continuous stretch of land, the North Sea, with the help of human intervention, carved them into the individual islands we know today. For centuries, these islands were a world apart, their inhabitants hardy seafarers and farmers who wrested a living from a challenging environment. They developed unique dialects and customs, fiercely independent and deeply connected to the rhythms of the sea. Fortunes rose and fell with shipwrecks and whaling expeditions, and the islands served as strategic points of defence, witnessing battles and occupations throughout European history. Today, while tourism fuels their economy, remnants of their rich past remain visible in the villages, maritime museums, and the enduring spirit of the islanders, a testament to their resilience against the tides of time. Having never visited before (and finding that many Dutch locals share this unfamiliarity), I seized the opportunity to explore Ameland by bike.
|
|
|
Upon completion of my swift cycle loop, I boarded the imposing ship Willem Jacob, vessel reminiscent of a pirate ship, for a journey across the Wadden Sea. Initially, I questioned a perceived typo on the ticket, noting an arrival time a full twelve hours later. How could this be, in such a compact country? The answer lies in the Wadden Sea itself, the largest unbroken system of intertidal sand and mud flats globally. A characteristic that, as a matter of fact, is securing its UNESCO World Heritage status. Sailing here involves extended grounding periods on exposed sandbanks during low tide, allowing passengers to disembark and experience "waddenlopen," hiking across the sea bottom. A surreal experience!
As such, I ate, slept and temporarily lived on the boat, enjoying my hours of recovery off the saddle (the butt-blisters were real!).
Writer’s note: I do not recommend the ferry service heading to Ameland, operated by Wagenborg Passagiersdiensten. They force you to buy a return ticket, even if you’re just traveling one way. They charge incredibly high ticket prices as well, incomparable to any of the other Dutch ferry services. As they are a monopoly the can get away with it, which doesn’t mean like they should of course. Unsympathetic experience.
Day 6: Ameland / Schiermonnikoog - Groningen
Distance: 60.6km.
Terrain: Mainly cycle paths (of varying quality), some roads.
Resupply: Schiermonnikoog, Lauwersoog, Groningen.
Provinces: Friesland, Groningen.
Weather: Cloudy. Sidewind (sometimes alternated with head and tailwind).
I awoke to the gentle rocking of the Willem Jacob, a vessel that had transformed from a simple mode of transport into a temporary home and even a maritime classroom. Twelve kilometres of sailing the previous day had left us happily stranded in a sea of camaraderie, allowing us to explore the sea bottom on foot in perfect harmony. Time, it seemed, had delightfully slowed its pace. What made the experience truly special was the active participation encouraged by the well-informed captain and boatman. Every guest was invited to lend a hand, transforming passengers into vital crew members. This interactive approach fostered learning and a sense of shared purpose, truly adding a layer of depth to the journey. To lighten things up, the evenings were filled with lively conversation, games, and a steady stream of culinary delights. Not only were we generously treated on delicious breakfasts, lunches and dinners, also late-night cheese platters were provided as a social glue as to ensure the spirits remained high. Midnight arrived way too quick.
As such, I ate, slept and temporarily lived on the boat, enjoying my hours of recovery off the saddle (the butt-blisters were real!).
Writer’s note: I do not recommend the ferry service heading to Ameland, operated by Wagenborg Passagiersdiensten. They force you to buy a return ticket, even if you’re just traveling one way. They charge incredibly high ticket prices as well, incomparable to any of the other Dutch ferry services. As they are a monopoly the can get away with it, which doesn’t mean like they should of course. Unsympathetic experience.
Day 6: Ameland / Schiermonnikoog - Groningen
Distance: 60.6km.
Terrain: Mainly cycle paths (of varying quality), some roads.
Resupply: Schiermonnikoog, Lauwersoog, Groningen.
Provinces: Friesland, Groningen.
Weather: Cloudy. Sidewind (sometimes alternated with head and tailwind).
I awoke to the gentle rocking of the Willem Jacob, a vessel that had transformed from a simple mode of transport into a temporary home and even a maritime classroom. Twelve kilometres of sailing the previous day had left us happily stranded in a sea of camaraderie, allowing us to explore the sea bottom on foot in perfect harmony. Time, it seemed, had delightfully slowed its pace. What made the experience truly special was the active participation encouraged by the well-informed captain and boatman. Every guest was invited to lend a hand, transforming passengers into vital crew members. This interactive approach fostered learning and a sense of shared purpose, truly adding a layer of depth to the journey. To lighten things up, the evenings were filled with lively conversation, games, and a steady stream of culinary delights. Not only were we generously treated on delicious breakfasts, lunches and dinners, also late-night cheese platters were provided as a social glue as to ensure the spirits remained high. Midnight arrived way too quick.
After a satisfying sleep, I awoke to find the high tide had returned, ready to lift us once more. It was a surreal contrast: yesterday, we had walked upon the seabed, and now we were floating freely, high above it. We sailed to another Wadden Island: Schiermonnikoog. A national park in its entirety, where I explored every bike lane on the island. Which didn’t take long. This Dutch island is the smallest inhabited one in the Wadden Sea. It’s a car-free haven offering an escape from the frenetic pace of modern life. Its history is a tapestry woven with the threads of monastic orders – the "grey monks" who gave the island its name – shipwrecks, and strategic military importance. Over centuries, the relentless forces of the sea have shaped and reshaped its dunes and beaches, creating a dynamic landscape that continues to evolve. Today, Schiermonnikoog beckons with its windswept beauty, inviting adventurers and tranquillity-seekers alike to explore its unique ecosystem and discover the charm of a place where the rhythm of life is dictated by the tides.
The seafaring journey continued. I hopped on the Willem Jacob one last time to sail to Lauwersoog, where I hopped back on my bike to roll into the Lauwersmeer National Park. End destination of today? Groningen, the welcoming home of my friend Jelle and his girlfriend Maryse. A warm bed, a delicious meal, and an evening of stories around a crackling campfire awaited. Reflecting on this spontaneous adventure “in between travels”, I suddenly felt a thorough sense of contentment.
The seafaring journey continued. I hopped on the Willem Jacob one last time to sail to Lauwersoog, where I hopped back on my bike to roll into the Lauwersmeer National Park. End destination of today? Groningen, the welcoming home of my friend Jelle and his girlfriend Maryse. A warm bed, a delicious meal, and an evening of stories around a crackling campfire awaited. Reflecting on this spontaneous adventure “in between travels”, I suddenly felt a thorough sense of contentment.
|
|
|
Day 7: Groningen - Zwolle
Distance: 126km.
Terrain: Predominantly cycle paths, some roads.
Resupply: Continuously… Groningen, Haren, Zuidlaren, Assen, Smilde, Diever, Vledder, Steenwijk, Giethoorn, Genemuiden, Zwolle.
Provinces: Groningen, Drenthe, Overijssel.
Ferry: Genemuiden (€1.50 / 2025).
Weather: Cloudy. Sidewind and some headwind.
Leaving yet another sizable city and province capital behind, I embarked on what promised to be a superlative day of cycling. A veritable odyssey through the verdant heart of the Netherlands, if you will. My itinerary boasted not one, but three national parks: The Drentsche Aa, Drents-Friese Wold, and Weerribben-Wieden, not battling but complementing each other when it comes to unspoilt Dutch natural beauty. A mere 45 minutes from Groningen, the first one of the series, Drentsche Aa, welcomed me with its pleasantly elaborate network of bicycle trails, guiding me through a wooded sanctuary where the whispering leaves and occasional sightings of rabbits fostered an ambiance of undisturbed tranquillity. The Drents-Friese Wold is smaller but no less captivating. This sprawling landscape we see today, straddling the provinces of Drenthe and Friesland in the Netherlands, wasn't always the synergy of forests, heaths, and shifting sands it is today. Once, this region was a patchwork of barren grassland, considered by many to be economically worthless. Visionary minds, however, saw the potential for something more. Through ambitious afforestation projects in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the land was transformed, breathing new life into the area and providing much-needed timber. The result is a blend of the deliberately cultivated and the wonderfully wild, a testament to human ingenuity and nature's enduring power of recovery. Drenthe, which I traversed in its entirety today, with brief urban respites in Assen and Wapse, struck me as arguably the most aesthetically pleasing and ecologically rich province in the country.
By the day's end, I found myself pedalling into Overijssel, where I entered the third and last national park of the day: the Weerribben-Wieden. This watery wonderland, the largest fen in Northwestern Europe, has a similar background story to the Drents-Friese Wold. Once, peat harvesting was the main function of this land, a back-breaking industry that scarred the landscape and left behind a maze of narrow canals and waterways. As the peat was extracted, the land slowly submerged, creating a unique ecosystem perfectly suited for reeds, birds, and a sudden quietude that is a far cry away from its industrial past. Much better than the more famous attraction of Overijssel: tourist-ridden Giethoorn. You may avoid that one, absolute mayhem. Slowly feeling the tiredness seeping into my legs, I crossed a small canal via a quaint ferry in Genemuiden, allowing me to finally make way into the capital’s province Zwolle, where the hospitality of Couchsurfer and fellow outdoor enthusiast Gerdy marked my welcome.
Distance: 126km.
Terrain: Predominantly cycle paths, some roads.
Resupply: Continuously… Groningen, Haren, Zuidlaren, Assen, Smilde, Diever, Vledder, Steenwijk, Giethoorn, Genemuiden, Zwolle.
Provinces: Groningen, Drenthe, Overijssel.
Ferry: Genemuiden (€1.50 / 2025).
Weather: Cloudy. Sidewind and some headwind.
Leaving yet another sizable city and province capital behind, I embarked on what promised to be a superlative day of cycling. A veritable odyssey through the verdant heart of the Netherlands, if you will. My itinerary boasted not one, but three national parks: The Drentsche Aa, Drents-Friese Wold, and Weerribben-Wieden, not battling but complementing each other when it comes to unspoilt Dutch natural beauty. A mere 45 minutes from Groningen, the first one of the series, Drentsche Aa, welcomed me with its pleasantly elaborate network of bicycle trails, guiding me through a wooded sanctuary where the whispering leaves and occasional sightings of rabbits fostered an ambiance of undisturbed tranquillity. The Drents-Friese Wold is smaller but no less captivating. This sprawling landscape we see today, straddling the provinces of Drenthe and Friesland in the Netherlands, wasn't always the synergy of forests, heaths, and shifting sands it is today. Once, this region was a patchwork of barren grassland, considered by many to be economically worthless. Visionary minds, however, saw the potential for something more. Through ambitious afforestation projects in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, the land was transformed, breathing new life into the area and providing much-needed timber. The result is a blend of the deliberately cultivated and the wonderfully wild, a testament to human ingenuity and nature's enduring power of recovery. Drenthe, which I traversed in its entirety today, with brief urban respites in Assen and Wapse, struck me as arguably the most aesthetically pleasing and ecologically rich province in the country.
By the day's end, I found myself pedalling into Overijssel, where I entered the third and last national park of the day: the Weerribben-Wieden. This watery wonderland, the largest fen in Northwestern Europe, has a similar background story to the Drents-Friese Wold. Once, peat harvesting was the main function of this land, a back-breaking industry that scarred the landscape and left behind a maze of narrow canals and waterways. As the peat was extracted, the land slowly submerged, creating a unique ecosystem perfectly suited for reeds, birds, and a sudden quietude that is a far cry away from its industrial past. Much better than the more famous attraction of Overijssel: tourist-ridden Giethoorn. You may avoid that one, absolute mayhem. Slowly feeling the tiredness seeping into my legs, I crossed a small canal via a quaint ferry in Genemuiden, allowing me to finally make way into the capital’s province Zwolle, where the hospitality of Couchsurfer and fellow outdoor enthusiast Gerdy marked my welcome.
|
|
|
Day 8: Zwolle – Weeze (Germany)
Distance: 130.9km.
Terrain: Cycle paths and roads. Bad quality in Germany though.
Resupply: No worries about that. Zwolle, Wijhe, Olst, Deventer, Brummen, Doesburg, Zevenaar, Emmerich Kleve, Goch, Weeze. Keep in mind that supermarkets are closed on Sundays in Germany (guess which day of the week I was there?).
Provinces: Overijssel, Gelderland.
Weather: Cloudy, rainy. Tail- and sidewind.
The following morning, I found myself eastward bound, drawn to the Achterhoek region of the province of Gelderland, a place steeped in local lore. An area nationally famed for its no-nonsense farmer culture, the youthful pastime of "brommers kieken" (motorbike spotting – synonymous for hooking up with the other sex in an outdoor setting), and the legendary Zwarte Cross festival. The Achterhoek also boasts a distinct dialect, triggering mental imagery of farmland, tractors and “schuurfeesten” (coma-drinking inside of sheds, due to the remoteness and lack of any nightlife facilities to cater to the local youth).
Heading into this direction, my journey was punctuated by an unexpected delight: Deventer. This historic city, previously unknown to me, unfolded like a beautifully illustrated storybook with its network of charming, winding alleys, impressive monuments, and an atmosphere thick with cultural heritage. It was a discovery worthy of a return visit, and a promise to explore at a much more leisurely pace was made.
Adding to my good fortune, a welcome tailwind graced my ride—a first on this journey. The increased speed and reduced effort were a godsend, given the distance I needed to cover. By day's end, my path led me through the border town of Zevenaar, across the Rhine via a rather circuitous route dictated by limited bridge access (that river is truly immense!), and finally to a campsite at a bio farm in Germany, listed on Warm Showers. It felt somewhat surreal and uncomfortable to be setting up camp in Germany (of all places) on May 4th, a day of national remembrance dedicated to honoring those who have perished in World War II. By whose hands? Well… I think you know.
Distance: 130.9km.
Terrain: Cycle paths and roads. Bad quality in Germany though.
Resupply: No worries about that. Zwolle, Wijhe, Olst, Deventer, Brummen, Doesburg, Zevenaar, Emmerich Kleve, Goch, Weeze. Keep in mind that supermarkets are closed on Sundays in Germany (guess which day of the week I was there?).
Provinces: Overijssel, Gelderland.
Weather: Cloudy, rainy. Tail- and sidewind.
The following morning, I found myself eastward bound, drawn to the Achterhoek region of the province of Gelderland, a place steeped in local lore. An area nationally famed for its no-nonsense farmer culture, the youthful pastime of "brommers kieken" (motorbike spotting – synonymous for hooking up with the other sex in an outdoor setting), and the legendary Zwarte Cross festival. The Achterhoek also boasts a distinct dialect, triggering mental imagery of farmland, tractors and “schuurfeesten” (coma-drinking inside of sheds, due to the remoteness and lack of any nightlife facilities to cater to the local youth).
Heading into this direction, my journey was punctuated by an unexpected delight: Deventer. This historic city, previously unknown to me, unfolded like a beautifully illustrated storybook with its network of charming, winding alleys, impressive monuments, and an atmosphere thick with cultural heritage. It was a discovery worthy of a return visit, and a promise to explore at a much more leisurely pace was made.
Adding to my good fortune, a welcome tailwind graced my ride—a first on this journey. The increased speed and reduced effort were a godsend, given the distance I needed to cover. By day's end, my path led me through the border town of Zevenaar, across the Rhine via a rather circuitous route dictated by limited bridge access (that river is truly immense!), and finally to a campsite at a bio farm in Germany, listed on Warm Showers. It felt somewhat surreal and uncomfortable to be setting up camp in Germany (of all places) on May 4th, a day of national remembrance dedicated to honoring those who have perished in World War II. By whose hands? Well… I think you know.
|
|
|
Day 9: Weeze (Germany) – Hooilingen (Belgium)
Distance: 142.2km.
Terrain: Cycle paths and roads. Varying quality.
Resupply: Wanssum, Venlo, Tegelen, Reuver, Swalmen, Roermond, Echt, Obbicht, Urmond, Stein, Elsloo, Maastricht, Mopertingen, Bilzen.
Provinces: Limburg.
Weather: Cloudy. Side- and headwind.
I woke up on Liberation Day (May 5th), prompting my own departure from Germany. I steered my trusty bicycle directly into the embrace of the Maasduinen National Park, straddling the Dutch border. This serene landscape, once a battleground during the Second World War (how double on a day like this), has since transformed into a haven of diverse ecosystems. The park's rolling dunes and plains are remnants of glacial activity and river sediments, offering a unique geological environment to explore.
My journey for the day promised a traverse of the entire Limburg province, a region celebrated for its scrumptious 'vlaai' (typical pie) and their strange accent turning every sentence into a question somehow. Here, alongside standard Dutch, thrives a local dialect, unintelligible to outsiders like myself, echoing the linguistic diversity packed into this small nation. I pedalled through Venlo, which, to be frank, might grab the title of the most underwhelming city of the land, while Roermond, with its rich Hanseatic history, proved a more engaging stop.
The rain finally caught up with me, rendering my waterproof gear essential after all. You can't cycle for a week across the Netherlands and keep it dry (the weather has been extraordinarily un-Dutch). Truth be told, I struggled to summon my usual enthusiasm during this soggy stretch. The wind, defying all online forecasts of tailwind, stubbornly blew from my side, offering no assistance and stealing my momentum. Nine days of cycling had taken their toll; saddle soreness, chafed skin, and a general fatigue conspired to make the 140 kilometers ahead feel like a monumental challenge. Still, I pressed on, eventually reaching Maastricht, one of the Netherlands' southernmost cities. This marked a personal milestone, having effectively traversed the country from north to south and back again.
A sharp right turn then propelled me into Belgium. Frustrated by the Netherlands' strict ban on wild camping and the recent abolition of welcome "pole campsites," I sought solace in Belgium's more accommodating approach, cycling towards a rustic bivouac site nestled deep inside their forests. It was a cold, but gratifying end to the day. Three countries traversed in a single day on two wheels – a testament to the compactness of Europe!
Distance: 142.2km.
Terrain: Cycle paths and roads. Varying quality.
Resupply: Wanssum, Venlo, Tegelen, Reuver, Swalmen, Roermond, Echt, Obbicht, Urmond, Stein, Elsloo, Maastricht, Mopertingen, Bilzen.
Provinces: Limburg.
Weather: Cloudy. Side- and headwind.
I woke up on Liberation Day (May 5th), prompting my own departure from Germany. I steered my trusty bicycle directly into the embrace of the Maasduinen National Park, straddling the Dutch border. This serene landscape, once a battleground during the Second World War (how double on a day like this), has since transformed into a haven of diverse ecosystems. The park's rolling dunes and plains are remnants of glacial activity and river sediments, offering a unique geological environment to explore.
My journey for the day promised a traverse of the entire Limburg province, a region celebrated for its scrumptious 'vlaai' (typical pie) and their strange accent turning every sentence into a question somehow. Here, alongside standard Dutch, thrives a local dialect, unintelligible to outsiders like myself, echoing the linguistic diversity packed into this small nation. I pedalled through Venlo, which, to be frank, might grab the title of the most underwhelming city of the land, while Roermond, with its rich Hanseatic history, proved a more engaging stop.
The rain finally caught up with me, rendering my waterproof gear essential after all. You can't cycle for a week across the Netherlands and keep it dry (the weather has been extraordinarily un-Dutch). Truth be told, I struggled to summon my usual enthusiasm during this soggy stretch. The wind, defying all online forecasts of tailwind, stubbornly blew from my side, offering no assistance and stealing my momentum. Nine days of cycling had taken their toll; saddle soreness, chafed skin, and a general fatigue conspired to make the 140 kilometers ahead feel like a monumental challenge. Still, I pressed on, eventually reaching Maastricht, one of the Netherlands' southernmost cities. This marked a personal milestone, having effectively traversed the country from north to south and back again.
A sharp right turn then propelled me into Belgium. Frustrated by the Netherlands' strict ban on wild camping and the recent abolition of welcome "pole campsites," I sought solace in Belgium's more accommodating approach, cycling towards a rustic bivouac site nestled deep inside their forests. It was a cold, but gratifying end to the day. Three countries traversed in a single day on two wheels – a testament to the compactness of Europe!
|
|
|
Day 10: Bivak Hooilingen (Belgium) - Tilburg
Distance: 116.2km.
Terrain: Cycle paths and roads. Varying quality.
Resupply: Bilzen, Hasselt, Hechtel, Hapert, Lommel, Esbeek, Hilvarenbeek, Tilburg.
Provinces: Brabant.
Weather: Cloudy, cold. Incredible headwind.
The final act of my Dutch circumnavigation began, rather inconsistently, at the delightful free bivouac spot just across the Belgian border. Rather than retrace my tire tracks through the slim stretch of Limburg, I pointed my bicycle northwards, right across Belgium. Once again, Mr. Wind was not on my side. Seriously, what did I ever do to deserve such merciless treatment?
My route took me through Hasselt, a city in Belgian Limburg, charming me with its unassuming demeanor. Its historical remnants in architecture, gin distilleries, fashion houses, and a distinctly Flemish spirit, unfolds through its cobblestone streets and the warm smiles of its residents. Overall, it was remarkable how much friendlier the Belgians are than us Dutchies. I am one of them, so I may say it. I noticed such a stark contrast. Complete strangers offered well wishes, stopped to listen to tales from the road, and even, with a touch of self-deprecation, apologized for the perceived inferiority of their cycle paths. Back in the Netherlands, my cycling conversations have largely been fuelled by irritation and rude comments. That said, the bicycle-friendliness of their national parks cannot compete. I am sure that the Bosland National Park has a lot to offer, it’s just impossible to figure this out on two wheels. You’re glued to an uninspiring highway leading right passed its possible natural treasures.
After the best glass of Kriek I had ever poured down my throat (traditions are traditions), it was onward to Tilburg. My beloved ugly former student town, where I spent five formative (or: festive) years. I even rolled past my old house, a wave of pure nostalgia washing over me. It was pure joy to navigate those familiar cycle paths to the university, roads of which I can dream every angle and turn. Nowadays, it forms the new home of my stepsister Annick, providing a welcome opportunity to rest my weary legs during a first housewarming visit.
Distance: 116.2km.
Terrain: Cycle paths and roads. Varying quality.
Resupply: Bilzen, Hasselt, Hechtel, Hapert, Lommel, Esbeek, Hilvarenbeek, Tilburg.
Provinces: Brabant.
Weather: Cloudy, cold. Incredible headwind.
The final act of my Dutch circumnavigation began, rather inconsistently, at the delightful free bivouac spot just across the Belgian border. Rather than retrace my tire tracks through the slim stretch of Limburg, I pointed my bicycle northwards, right across Belgium. Once again, Mr. Wind was not on my side. Seriously, what did I ever do to deserve such merciless treatment?
My route took me through Hasselt, a city in Belgian Limburg, charming me with its unassuming demeanor. Its historical remnants in architecture, gin distilleries, fashion houses, and a distinctly Flemish spirit, unfolds through its cobblestone streets and the warm smiles of its residents. Overall, it was remarkable how much friendlier the Belgians are than us Dutchies. I am one of them, so I may say it. I noticed such a stark contrast. Complete strangers offered well wishes, stopped to listen to tales from the road, and even, with a touch of self-deprecation, apologized for the perceived inferiority of their cycle paths. Back in the Netherlands, my cycling conversations have largely been fuelled by irritation and rude comments. That said, the bicycle-friendliness of their national parks cannot compete. I am sure that the Bosland National Park has a lot to offer, it’s just impossible to figure this out on two wheels. You’re glued to an uninspiring highway leading right passed its possible natural treasures.
After the best glass of Kriek I had ever poured down my throat (traditions are traditions), it was onward to Tilburg. My beloved ugly former student town, where I spent five formative (or: festive) years. I even rolled past my old house, a wave of pure nostalgia washing over me. It was pure joy to navigate those familiar cycle paths to the university, roads of which I can dream every angle and turn. Nowadays, it forms the new home of my stepsister Annick, providing a welcome opportunity to rest my weary legs during a first housewarming visit.
|
|
|
Day 11: Tilburg - Halsteren
Distance: 71.7km.
Terrain: Cycle paths, roads.
Resupply: Tilburg, Breda, Prinsenbeek, Etten-Leur, Roosendaal, Wouw.
Provinces: Brabant.
Weather: Sunny. Side-wind.
The final day of cycling proved a quick homerun, a half-day sprint back to Halsteren through the reassuringly familiar landscapes of my native Brabant. This province, a swathe of the Netherlands often overlooked, boasts a charm all its own. From its rolling, sandy fields and calming flats to its proud, independent history – once a duchy of considerable power – Brabant resonates with a distinct identity. Listen closely, and you'll catch the lilting drawl of the Brabantian accent, marked by the “soft g”, gentle vowels and a playful cadence. Traditions run deep here, too, from the exuberant revelry of carnaval (the most beautiful time of the year) to the communal enjoyment of a “worstenbroodje” (sausage roll)... bread and meat, can’t go wrong there. We have our V.I.B.’s as well… Did you know, for example, that Brabant is the birthplace of Vincent van Gogh, whose early life unfolded amidst the Brabant countryside? Also Erasmus found refuge and inspiration right on Brabant soil. Very Important Brabanders to me are Barry and Lianne though, my friends residing in the amiable city of Breda (the very location where New Amsterdam became New York – just look at me sprinkling fun facts around). One last push, one last sprint. Back in Halsteren, back to where it all started. Both the cycle journey and my life.
That was that. I went full circle. 1154.9km, that’ll do.
Distance: 71.7km.
Terrain: Cycle paths, roads.
Resupply: Tilburg, Breda, Prinsenbeek, Etten-Leur, Roosendaal, Wouw.
Provinces: Brabant.
Weather: Sunny. Side-wind.
The final day of cycling proved a quick homerun, a half-day sprint back to Halsteren through the reassuringly familiar landscapes of my native Brabant. This province, a swathe of the Netherlands often overlooked, boasts a charm all its own. From its rolling, sandy fields and calming flats to its proud, independent history – once a duchy of considerable power – Brabant resonates with a distinct identity. Listen closely, and you'll catch the lilting drawl of the Brabantian accent, marked by the “soft g”, gentle vowels and a playful cadence. Traditions run deep here, too, from the exuberant revelry of carnaval (the most beautiful time of the year) to the communal enjoyment of a “worstenbroodje” (sausage roll)... bread and meat, can’t go wrong there. We have our V.I.B.’s as well… Did you know, for example, that Brabant is the birthplace of Vincent van Gogh, whose early life unfolded amidst the Brabant countryside? Also Erasmus found refuge and inspiration right on Brabant soil. Very Important Brabanders to me are Barry and Lianne though, my friends residing in the amiable city of Breda (the very location where New Amsterdam became New York – just look at me sprinkling fun facts around). One last push, one last sprint. Back in Halsteren, back to where it all started. Both the cycle journey and my life.
That was that. I went full circle. 1154.9km, that’ll do.
Quick Budget Fact Overview
The Netherlands Facts
Short History Recap
50BC-400AD: Romans. 1-100AD: Frisians. History of endless floods. 1300: Low Countries united. 1489-’90: Plague. 1500s: Protestant reformation. ’68: William I of Orange revolt against Spanish. Holy office condemned all Dutch to death: 80 Years War, Dutch Revolt. ’81: Independent from Spain (recognized in 1648). 1602: VOC, Dutch East Indian Company: Indonesia, colonies. ’30: Conquered Brazil --> ’61: sold to Portugal. ’88: Start war with France. 1780-’83: War with UK. ’84: Peace of Versailles (France/UK/NL). 1914-’18: Neutral WWI. ’22: Women voting power. ’32: 31-KM dam Zuiderzee: IJsselmeer lake (now drained). ’39: WWII, NL neutral. ’40: Nazis invade, Rotterdam air-bombed, NL surrenders. Brutal Nazi occupation. ’42: Japan declares war (occupies Indies). ’44-’45: Allied forces, NL fighting site. Near-starvation. 8 may: Liberation. NL in UN. ’49: Dutch East Indies independent: Indonesia. NL joins NATO. ’52: ECSC --> EEC later. ’53: Dykes breached: 2000 die. ’63: Colony New Guinea --> Indonesia. ’75: Colony Surinam independent --> emigration wave to NL. ’80: Queen Juliana replaced by Beatrix. ’85: 50 US cruise missiles in NL (protests). ’93: Euthanasia regulated (2000 legal). 2001: Gay marriage & adoption legal. ’02: € introduced. (Right-winged) politician Fortuyn killed. ’06: 1400 soldiers to Afghanistan (NATO). ’09: Attack on royal family, 7 civilians die. Extreme-right parties win votes (Wilders). Racism intensifies. ’10: soldiers out of Afghanistan. ’10: Antilles dissolved (nations). ’13: King Willem-Alexander. Peacekeeping troops to Mali. ’14: MH17 flight of Malaysian Airlines shot out of the air by Russian missile in rebel-held Ukraine, 298 people die incl. 193 Dutch citizens. ’17: NL held liable of 300+ Bosnian Muslim deaths, men/boys sheltered with Dutch UN “Peace”keepers in Srebrenica. ’18: Parliament recognizes Turkish massacres of 1.5+ Armenians as genocide.
Local Festivals
I refer to my blog “10 Typical Dutch Celebrations”
The Netherlands Facts
- Capital: Amsterdam
- Language: Dutch (Nederlands)
- Population: ± 17.5mln
- Sq km: ± 41,543
- Currency: Euro (€)
- Electricity Outlet: C & F / 230 V / 50 Hz.
- Country Code Phone: +31
- Emergency Phone: 112
- Visa: Schengen visa, check here!
- Vaccinations: None
- Climate: Marine West Coast Climate (Cfb)
- High season: June-Aug.
Short History Recap
50BC-400AD: Romans. 1-100AD: Frisians. History of endless floods. 1300: Low Countries united. 1489-’90: Plague. 1500s: Protestant reformation. ’68: William I of Orange revolt against Spanish. Holy office condemned all Dutch to death: 80 Years War, Dutch Revolt. ’81: Independent from Spain (recognized in 1648). 1602: VOC, Dutch East Indian Company: Indonesia, colonies. ’30: Conquered Brazil --> ’61: sold to Portugal. ’88: Start war with France. 1780-’83: War with UK. ’84: Peace of Versailles (France/UK/NL). 1914-’18: Neutral WWI. ’22: Women voting power. ’32: 31-KM dam Zuiderzee: IJsselmeer lake (now drained). ’39: WWII, NL neutral. ’40: Nazis invade, Rotterdam air-bombed, NL surrenders. Brutal Nazi occupation. ’42: Japan declares war (occupies Indies). ’44-’45: Allied forces, NL fighting site. Near-starvation. 8 may: Liberation. NL in UN. ’49: Dutch East Indies independent: Indonesia. NL joins NATO. ’52: ECSC --> EEC later. ’53: Dykes breached: 2000 die. ’63: Colony New Guinea --> Indonesia. ’75: Colony Surinam independent --> emigration wave to NL. ’80: Queen Juliana replaced by Beatrix. ’85: 50 US cruise missiles in NL (protests). ’93: Euthanasia regulated (2000 legal). 2001: Gay marriage & adoption legal. ’02: € introduced. (Right-winged) politician Fortuyn killed. ’06: 1400 soldiers to Afghanistan (NATO). ’09: Attack on royal family, 7 civilians die. Extreme-right parties win votes (Wilders). Racism intensifies. ’10: soldiers out of Afghanistan. ’10: Antilles dissolved (nations). ’13: King Willem-Alexander. Peacekeeping troops to Mali. ’14: MH17 flight of Malaysian Airlines shot out of the air by Russian missile in rebel-held Ukraine, 298 people die incl. 193 Dutch citizens. ’17: NL held liable of 300+ Bosnian Muslim deaths, men/boys sheltered with Dutch UN “Peace”keepers in Srebrenica. ’18: Parliament recognizes Turkish massacres of 1.5+ Armenians as genocide.
Local Festivals
I refer to my blog “10 Typical Dutch Celebrations”
Budget Bites
Sleep Cheap
- Big Supermarkets: Aldi, Plus, Spar, Jan Linders, Plus, Albert Heijn, Jumbo.
- Local food: Frikandel (deep-fried meat sausage); Kroket / Bitterballen (deep-fried ragout snack); Bamischijf / Nasischijf (deep-fried noodles patty); Kaassouflé (deep-fried cheese pastry); Raw Herring with Onion (fish); Kibbeling & Lekkerbekje (deep-fried fish); Mussels with fries; Boerenkool met Worst (mash pot); Stamppot & Hutspot (mash pot); Sudderlapjes (slowly simmered beef); Slavink (minced meat wrapped in bacon); Patatje Oorlog (fries with mayonnaise, ketchup and onions); Worstenbroodje (bread with sausage inside); Stroopwafel (cookie); Tompouce & Vlaai (cake); Cheese; Snert (pea soup with meat); Poffertjes (little pancakes with sugar); Wentelteefjes (sweet ‘croque monsieur’); Oliebollen (deep-fried dough with sugar); Appeltaart & Appelflappen (apple cake); Drop / Salmiak (sweet or salt liquorice); Ontbijtkoek (‘healthy’ cake); Vla & Griesmeelpudding (standard dessert). On bread: Calvé Pindakaas (best peanut butter in the world); Hagelslag; Vlokken; Muisjes; Schuddebuikjes; Kokosbrood; Chocopasta; Appelstroop.
- The Veg Situation: Being vegan is ridiculously easy in Europe and also in The Netherlands. Every supermarket has its own vegan/vegetarian section and there are many vegan restaurants… check them on Happy Cow.
- National Drink: Beer, the main brands being Heineken, Amstel, Grolsch, Bavaria, Brand, Jopen and Hertog Jan. Spirits include Jenever, Oranjebitter, Advocaat, Kopstootje, Dropshot, Gruit, Korenwijn, Schrobbeler and Boswandeling.
Sleep Cheap
- Hostels / Hotels: are very expensive in the Netherlands. Even a bed in a dormitory will not allow for a budget trip. Personally, I found Booking.com the most helpful tool in finding accommodation. If you use it often enough, generous Genius-discounts are applied. Agoda is often not transparent about prices, adding a lot of additional costs in the last booking-step. Most municipalities charge a city tax.
- Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. The Netherlands has quite a lot of active users, yet it can be tricky to last minute find a host as Dutch people generally aren’t that spontaneous. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost (unless you put a third-world country as homebase), but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate review explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored).
- Housesitting: is an amazing exchange allowing you to stay short- or long-term in somebody’s house, while looking after their house and pets. There are many different websites, most of them paid… but once you landed a sit, the subscription fee is pays itself back quickly. The main housesitting site is Trusted Housesitters.
- Wild Camping: is illegal in the Netherlands and fines are high. There used to be a network of free camping sites in the Netherlands, offered by Staatsbosbeheer… but this has been abolished since 2020. Unfortunately.
Mama Said
Transport
Next?
- Safety: The Netherlands is very safe and assaults or robberies are uncommon.
- Tap Water: is drinkable.
- Drugs: Marihuana, edibles and magic truffles are legal. Hard drugs are available but not legal!
- The best credit/debit card for traveling is Wise, as they use the live conversion rates without any extra fees. Wise also has the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. Payment by card is accepted everywhere. An alternative is Revolut.
- Simcard: Getting a simcard for data surprisingly is a pain in the arse in the Netherlands. In supermarkets you can get a simcard charged with a certain amount of money, but this is generally only suitable for making phone calls. The data costs outside of a bundle are insane. Also, when you buy a data bundle, generally 10GB per month is the maximum you can buy on a prepaid card (they only offer higher GB packages for a more interesting price if you sign up for 6 or 12 months). Overall prices are high, the reliable companies charging as much as €25-35 for a small amount of data. Cheaper companies like Lycamobile or Lebara are unreliable at best, fraudulent at worst (I have horrendous experiences with both companies).
Transport
- Walking: Most Dutch cities are modest in size and attractive to be discovered on foot.
- Cycling: The Dutch and biking is a match made in heaven. High-quality bikes, splendid bicycle lanes and considerate traffic: this is the main way of transport.
- Train / Buses / Tram / Metro: The main way to go from city to city is by train, operated by NS. It’s worth checking promotions at Spoordeelwinkel or websites listing discounts, as it’s very expensive. It doesn’t matter if you buy your train tickets in advance, as the price is always the same. Yet, an extra euro is charged if you buy the ticket at the trainstation. Instead, you can buy your train ticket online or in the app, or buy a (temporary) charged OV-chipcard with at least €20. Find a travel-planner here. It’s uncommon to travel from city to city by bus, but Flixbus is slowly winning terrain and connects some of the bigger cities as well as international destinations (tickets are generally cheaper when bought further in advance). Within the city transport is arranged by bus, tram, metro, or all of the above. Destinations are displayed on the front and a schedule can be found in the waiting areas. In some cities your OV-card also works for bus, tram and metro, but that’s not always the case (some cities have different operators).
- Taxi / Uber: is available, but very expensive.
- Airport: Amsterdam Schiphol Airport (AMS); Rotterdam The Hague Airport (RTM); Eindhoven Airport (EIN); Maastricht Aachen Airport (MST).
- Hitchhiking: is very uncommon. Blablacar is a more accepted way to get around. However, don’t be discouraged: find more information here.
Next?
In order to support the travelers’ community, I spend many hours per week to adequately document all information and advices for prospective visitors, accompanied by a (hopefully) entertaining insight into my personal observations and experiences. This service is and will remain free. However, if you voluntarily want to make a contribution and support my travels and thus the creation of new stories and information supply, here is the button you’re looking for:
Related:
- Carnaval celebrations in Colombia & Paraguay!
- Festival season in Sao Paulo, Brazil
- Top-5 places to visit in South Limburg [The Netherlands]
- An ayahuasca ceremony in the Andes of Peru
- Exploring the Netherlands: Den Bosch, Haarlem & Leeuwarden
- 3 reasons why you need to visit Nijmegen [The Netherlands]
- Europe's best skiing & hiking: Get your ass over to jaw-dropping Switzerland!
- Visit Europe's mini-countries: Gibraltar, Liechtenstein, Luxemburg, Kosovo & Wales!
- History preserved: Time capsule of Romanian culture Maramures
- Discover more Belgium: Antwerp & the most kick-ass Flanders itinerary!
- Festival season in South Korea!
- 8 ways to save money in Vienna, Austria
- German Gems: Aachen, Frankfurt, Heidelberg, Dusseldorf, Cologne, Mulheim, Osnabruck, Baden-Baden... and of course Freiburg!
- The world's biggest metal festival: Wacken Open Air
- Discover Austria's best winter sport destinations!
- Europe's best skiing & hiking: Get your ass over to jaw-dropping Switzerland!
- Skiing on a budget: Romania's top ski resorts!
- Unravel the mysteries of Serbia
- Budget Bucket List hitchhike trip to... Kosovo!
- Guest Blog 'Kosovo Girl Travels': Travel tips and stories from Kosovo's first and only travelblogger!
- The 3 golden rules to travel Sofia on a budget! & Why you shouldn’t miss out on Plovdiv! [Bulgaria]
- Discover the splendours of Turkey: Istanbul on a Budget & Reasons to visit Edirne
- 10 things you can't do in the non-touristy part of Morocco
- Check out Budget Bucket List's FAVORITE HIKING DESTINATIONS worldwide!
- Hiking Poland's longest mountain trail (550km) with a tent: Glowny Szlak Beskidzki - check the reports here!
- Walk like a pilgrim! 6 weeks on the Camino Frances towards Santiago de Compostela / Finisterre (900km) - check the reports here!
- Carnaval celebrations in Colombia & Paraguay!
- Festival season in Sao Paulo, Brazil
- Top-5 places to visit in South Limburg [The Netherlands]
- An ayahuasca ceremony in the Andes of Peru
- Exploring the Netherlands: Den Bosch, Haarlem & Leeuwarden
- 3 reasons why you need to visit Nijmegen [The Netherlands]
- Europe's best skiing & hiking: Get your ass over to jaw-dropping Switzerland!
- Visit Europe's mini-countries: Gibraltar, Liechtenstein, Luxemburg, Kosovo & Wales!
- History preserved: Time capsule of Romanian culture Maramures
- Discover more Belgium: Antwerp & the most kick-ass Flanders itinerary!
- Festival season in South Korea!
- 8 ways to save money in Vienna, Austria
- German Gems: Aachen, Frankfurt, Heidelberg, Dusseldorf, Cologne, Mulheim, Osnabruck, Baden-Baden... and of course Freiburg!
- The world's biggest metal festival: Wacken Open Air
- Discover Austria's best winter sport destinations!
- Europe's best skiing & hiking: Get your ass over to jaw-dropping Switzerland!
- Skiing on a budget: Romania's top ski resorts!
- Unravel the mysteries of Serbia
- Budget Bucket List hitchhike trip to... Kosovo!
- Guest Blog 'Kosovo Girl Travels': Travel tips and stories from Kosovo's first and only travelblogger!
- The 3 golden rules to travel Sofia on a budget! & Why you shouldn’t miss out on Plovdiv! [Bulgaria]
- Discover the splendours of Turkey: Istanbul on a Budget & Reasons to visit Edirne
- 10 things you can't do in the non-touristy part of Morocco
- Check out Budget Bucket List's FAVORITE HIKING DESTINATIONS worldwide!
- Hiking Poland's longest mountain trail (550km) with a tent: Glowny Szlak Beskidzki - check the reports here!
- Walk like a pilgrim! 6 weeks on the Camino Frances towards Santiago de Compostela / Finisterre (900km) - check the reports here!
