Samarkand

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Skipping Samarkand while visiting Uzbekistan would, by most standards, be considered blasphemy. This is the city with a glossy UNESCO-stamped resume and a history syllabus that reads like a Silk Road novel. A place where every domed structure shelters a centuries-old corpse of considerable historical standing. It isn’t just a city, it’s an open-air mausoleum. Once the glittering seat of Amir Temur, Uzbekistan’s glorified national hero, Samarkand is where you come to gawk at turquoise tilework and contemplate the ambitions of dead emperors. I, however, spent most of my visit contemplating the mortar between the bathroom tiles. Within 24 hours of my arrival, I was taken hostage by an eggplant salad. An eggplant salad! After 11 years of full-time travel, eating daily from the dodgiest stalls and drinking tap water anywhere and everywhere (even when locals shoot me warning glances), Uzbekistan just floored me. Literally. Shockingly, it was already my second bout of food poisoning that week, the first one courtesy of a suspiciously upscale shashlik in Jizzax. But this one hit harder. Two weeks of “hospitality” in the most literal sense, complete with actual hospital visits. No shady street food, no undercooked chicken, just vegetables… with a vengeance.

Still, there’s something about being half-conscious and over-medicated that really fuels a sense of cultural duty. So the moment I could stand without fainting, I staggered into sightseeing. Samarkand doesn’t take “no” for an answer.

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1. Shah-i-Zinda

If you only pay the entrance fee for one thing in Samarkand, let it be Shah-i-Zinda. The “Living King” necropolis. This hillside avenue of mausoleums was built between the 11th and 19th centuries, though most of the eye-candy tilework comes from the Timurid era. The name refers to Kusam ibn Abbas, a cousin of the Prophet Muhammad, who allegedly brought Islam to the region and now rests here, though not without a theatrical legend about his headless survival. Of all Samarkand’s corpse palaces, Shah-i-Zinda was, for me, the most spectacular. It’s Silk Road grandeur concentrated into a single, blue-glazed alleyway. Bonus: It’s oddly cheaper than many lesser sites. You can technically sneak in via the cemetery above, but for the actual experience, the modest ticket fee is worth the “splurge.”

While you're in the neighborhood: Check out the nearby Bibi Khanym Mosque, once the largest in the Islamic world. Lavishlyrestored, its towering dome and intricate tilework have reclaimed much of their former glory, even if the scale still slightly outpaces the structural stability. The inner courtyard has a separate entrance fee (of course it does), but the exterior already offers a satisfying sight. Across the road lies the rather underwhelming Bibi Khanym Mausoleum, her alleged final resting place… though whether she actually existed is still up for debate. And then there’s Islam Karimov’s Mausoleum: Uzbekistan’s first president and full-time murderous dictator. Even after his grateful death the state continues its campaign to enshrine his legacy in silk and denial, this heavily decorated monument being yet another element of the propaganda machine. Next door you’ll stumble upon the Hazrat Khizr Mosque (where Karimov's tomb lives), and the Tomb of the Prophet Daniel further up the hill, which I personally skipped. It allegedly holds the longest tomb in the world… because apparently Daniel was a giant?

2. Registan

Ah yes, the postcard. Registan is the Beyoncé of Samarkand’s historical ensemble, the central diva everyone comes to see. It once served as the public heart of the Timurid Empire, hosting royal proclamations, lively bazaars, and, naturally, a few public executions for flair. Framed by three grand madrasahs (Ulugh Beg, Sher Dor, and Tilya Kori), each masterpieces in geometry, it remains an awe-inspiring sight - even if you're just gawking from outside the gates. And here’s the thing: you can absolutely gawk for free. The gates are waist-high, and the whole square is viewable from every angle without setting foot inside. Which is handy, because they tripled the entrance fee since January this year (2025). The interiors offer some added frescoes, souvenir shops, and a museum or two, but in terms of visual impact, the exterior already does all the heavy lifting. If previously you were contemplating a summer holiday between either Uzbekistan or Ibiza, make sure to stick around for the nightly light show at 8:30PM (only in high season), effortlessly bringing those two unlikely destinations together.

Nearby, you’ll find a scattering of lesser mausoleums doing their best to compete for attention: the Nuriddin Basha Mausoleum, the Muslim Mausoleum and the Makhsumbobo Mausoleum. But let’s be honest: once you’ve stood before the Registan or wandered through Shah-i-Zinda, most of these feel like overachieving extras on a very crowded historical stage.

3. Gur-e Amir

If you’re going to conquer half of Asia and rename cities after yourself, the least you can do is sort out some decent posthumous real estate. Enter: Gur-e Amir, the grand resting place of Amir Temur, Uzbekistan’s beloved empire-builder, architecture enthusiast, and occasional mass murderer. Built in the 15th century to house his prematurely stargazing dead grandson, it eventually also became the general family crypt, stuffed with Timur himself and his sons. The dome is glorious, the grandeur intact, and it’s all very “eternal glory in ceramic form.” But truth be told, you’ll catch most of the visual splendor just by lingering around the square with a camera.
Around the corner you’ll notice the Ruhabad Mausoleum, pretty pale in comparison. Inside (allegedly): Sheikh Burhaneddin Sagaradzhi, Timur’s personal mystic, Islam-spreader-in-chief, and, according to legend, the proud husband of a Chinese princess. Entry is free, which feels about right. Keep walking and you’ll stumble upon the Ak-Saray Mausoleum. Also free, also a tomb, and also... there. If Gur-e Amir is the deluxe suite of death, Ak-Saray is more the no-frills hostel bunk.

What else?

If you ever tire of communing with the VIC’s (Very Important Corpses), Samarkand does offer some options for the living. Like the Hamid Alimjan Samarkand Theatre, where I accidentally stumbled into what might’ve been the longest fever dream ever staged. Three hours of unfiltered artistic chaos, featuring Romans, Jesus, a mental hospital, capitalism, a girl longing for New York, a Matrix-style dance-off, Burlesque and possibly the Addams Family. I’m not saying it was bad, I’m just saying I had no idea what was going on as all was entirely in Russian. I did enjoy a sneak-peek into the theatre’s interiors, which however boasted a decoration significantly more modest than its mausoleum-counterparts.

For a different type of haze, Samarkand’s local wine industry is low-key but surprisingly present. There are several wineries and tastings on offer… or so I heard, while clinging to my dignity and digestive system. A shame really, because red wine is my life line. That said, the wine I’ve tried in Uzbekistan so far, purchased out of sheer optimism, has ranged from "harsh regret" to "vinegar despair."

When the weather calms down and the sun stops trying to kill you, Samarkand becomes surprisingly walkable. Start with Tashkent Street and University Boulevard, two leafy stretches where the city breathes a little more easily. Here, you'll find the Rudaki Statue, honoring the Persian poet who (despite never setting foot in Samarkand) has earned a permanent spot in the city’s sculptural roll call. Eventually you’ll stumble into The Eternal City, which sounds philosophical but is actually an over-the-top theme park of Uzbek nostalgia, with a rather loose grip on historical accuracy. Faux caravanserais, kitschy architecture, and souvenir stalls come together in a strange but oddly entertaining blend of Disneyland and decorative nationalism. Nearby is Traditions Square, a modern plaza posing as a cultural time capsule. Sure, there’s a touch of commercial sheen, but it's a good place to soak in some open-air folklore shows or watch Uzbek families out on their evening strolls. The Ulugh Beg Observatory, built in the 15th century by Timur’s grandson, once housed one of the largest astronomical instruments of its time. Now, it’s a testament to how far medieval science could go without WiFi. Pair that with a stop at the Afrasiyab Museum, perched near the ruins of ancient Samarkand, which traces the city's pre-Timurid roots with a solid collection of artifacts and murals. And for a quieter cultural moment, slip into the Chorsu Trading Dome. Upstairs, you’ll find a surprisingly rich art gallery tucked inside the old domed structure. It’s free, uncrowded, and refreshingly uninterested in selling you ceramic camels or miniature Registans. A rare feat in this part of town.

Samarkand might be built on corpses, it’s bursting with life… just don’t let an eggplant salad be your final chapter.

Quick Budget Fact Overview

Uzbekistan Facts

Capital: Tashkent
Language: Uzbek (official), Russian widely spoken
Population: ± 36.7 mln (Samarkand: ± 585.000)
Sq km: ± 448,978 (Samarkand: ± 120)
Currency: Som (so'm – UZS)
Electricity Outlet: C+F / 220 V / 50 Hz
Country Code Phone: +998
Emergency Phone: 112 general, 101 fire, 102 police, 103 ambulance
Visa: 30-day visa-free access for many nationalities. Others can apply for an e-visa here.
Vaccinations: None mandatory, but Hepatitis A+B, Typhoid, and Tetanus are recommended
Climate: Arid / Continental Climate (B and D types). Hot, dry summers; cold winters.
High season: April–June & September–October (it can get unbearably hot in summer).

Short History Recap

6th century: Turkic tribes dominate. 8th: Arab conquest, Islam spreads. 9th-10th: Samanid rule, Persian culture flourishes. 1220s: Mongol invasion under Genghis Khan. 1370: Rise of Amir Temur (Tamerlane), capital in Samarkand. 1500s: Uzbek Shaybanid dynasty rules. 1740: Area absorbed by Persian Afsharid Empire. Late 1700s–1800s: Khivan, Kokand and Bukhara khanates. 1865: Russian Empire takes Tashkent. ’68: Samarkand. ’76: Bukhara and Khiva become Russian protectorates. 1916: Anti-Russian uprising crushed. ’17-‘20s: Bolshevik takeover, Red Army defeats local resistance. ’24: Uzbek Soviet Socialist Republic (SSR) formed within USSR. ’37-‘38: Stalinist purges, Uzbek intelligentsia executed. ’60s: Mass cotton production, Aral Sea begins shrinking. ’85: Glasnost, protests begin. ’89: Islam Karimov becomes First Secretary of Uzbek Communist Party. ’90: Becomes president. ’91: Independence declared. ’92: Joins UN. ’95: Karimov re-elected in controversial vote. 2005: Andijan Massacre – hundreds killed by state forces after protests. ’07: Internet censorship increases. ’16: Karimov dies. Shavkat Mirziyoyev becomes president. ’17-‘23: Gradual reforms, improved foreign ties, tourism push.

FREE Sights / Activities

Sights: Registan Square (outdoor viewing platform & light show at night), Bibi Khaynum Mosque (exterior courtyard), Siyob Bazaar, Tashkent Street, Jewish Cemetery, University Boulevard, The Eternal City, Traditions Square, Islam Karimov Memorial Statue, Rudaki Statue, Monument to Mirzo Ulugbek, Chupan Ata Shrine, President’s Tomb (Hazrat Khizr Complex), Armenian Apostolic Church, Church of St. Alexius, Mosque Koraboy Oksokol (exterior only), Daeil Presbyterian Church, Khodja Nisbatdor Mosque (exterior), Pedestrian Bridge.
Museums: Chorsu Trading Dome Art Gallery (free upstairs gallery inside the historic Chorsu building).
Hikes / Nature: Samarkand Silk Road Congress Centre area (fountains & gardens), Amir Temur Park, Alisher Navoi Central Recreation Park, Family Park.

PAID Sights / Activities

Sights: Shah‑i‑Zinda Necropolis, Registan Madrasahs (Ulugh Beg, Sher‑Dor & Tilya‑Kori), Gur Emir Mausoleum (Amir Temur’s tomb), Bibi‑Khaynum Inner Courtyard, Nadir Divan‑Begi Madrasah / Hoja Ahror Complex, Rabati Malik Caravanserai, Zarafshan Bridge, Ak-Saray Palace Ruins, Dorut Tilovat, Dorus Saodat Complex, Mausoleum Rukhabad, Mausoleum of Ishratkhona, Khodja Akrar Madrasah, Sher Dor Madrasah (interior), Mausoleum Of Iman Al-Moturidi, Islam Karimov Mausolée (interior), Mausoleum of Mahsumbobo, Grand Hall, Samarkand Regional Theatre of Musical Drama.
Museums: Ulugh Beg Observatory, Afrasiyab Museum, Zoological Museum, House-Museum of Khoja Muin Shukrullayev.
Other: Shahrisabz / Kattakurgan Daytrips, Wine Tasting Tours / Hovrenko Wine Factory (tasting room), Cooking Classes, Meros Paper Mill (demonstration tour), Samarkand Textile Workshop (fashion demos & shopping), Alibi SamCraft (leatherwork tour/shop), Dinamo Stadium, Sogdiana Aquapark.

Find a full list here.

Evening Entertainment

Nightlife: University Boulevard, Tashkent Street (near Registan), The Eternal City (especially the cafe strip), Navoi Street, Shakhi-Zinda Boulevard.
Theatres: Hamid Alimjan Samarkand Theatre, Samarkand Regional Theatre of Musical Drama, Samarkand State Puppet Theatre, Grand Hall.

Local Festivals

Navruz (spring equinox celebration with food fairs & sports) – March 21st
Flower Festival – May
Asrlar Sadosi (traditional Uzbek culture, crafts, folk performances) – May
Sharq Taronalari (biennial – music) – August
Samarkand Bread Festival – August
ICF Canoe Sprint World Championships
Independence Day – September 1st
Samarkand City Day – October 18th
Samarkand Half Marathon – November

Budget Bites

Main Supermarket Chains: Korzinka, Makro, Havas, Baraka Market.
Farmers Markets: Siyob Bazaar, Central Bazaar, Singasi Bazaar, Afrosiab Bazaar.
Local Dishes: Plov (national rice dish with meat, carrot, onion), Manti (steamed dumplings with meat or pumpkin), Lagman (hand-pulled noodles with meat and vegetables), Shurpa (meat broth soup with chunky vegetables), Shashlik (grilled meat skewers), Samsa (pastry stuffed with meat or pumpkin), Naryn (cold horse meat noodle dish), Dimlama (stewed meat and vegetables), Honim (steamed pasta layers with potato and onion), Chuchvara (small dumplings, similar to pelmeni), Mastava (rice and meat soup), Tandoori Kabob, Khalisa (wheat porridge with meat), Holvaytar (dense wheat halva), Patir (dense, oily flatbread), Tandyr Non (crusty round bread baked in clay oven).
The Veg Situation: Uzbek cuisine is generally meat-heavy, with broths and animal fat often used in cooking. However, some vegetarian dishes can be found, especially at bazaars. Local veg-friendly options include: Pumpkin Manti, Potato Samsa, Honim (enquire for meat-free version), Dimlama (check for meat content), Salads (such as Achichuk – tomato, onion, chili), Lentil Soup, Patir, Tandyr Non, and seasonal fruit. More veg spots (mainly in Tashkent) listed here.
National Drink: Green Tea, Ayran (salted yoghurt drink), Chalap (fermented dairy), Kompot (sweet fruit infusion), Kvas (mildly fermented rye drink), Uzbek Wine (Samarkand region – honestly not very good).

Sleep Cheap

Please note: Uzbekistan requires a registration for every night you are in the country. Make sure you retrieve this form from your hotels, as they sometimes don’t automatically give it (it costs them money, so an extra charge may apply). When camping, couchsurfing or staying with friends, you’re officially also urged to do it yourself within 3 days (not a very well-functioning sight, I didn’t manage). Some travelers reported to be checked on this at the border, some never heard about it again. I was part of the latter group, after religiously collecting those documents.

Hostels / Hotels / Guesthouses: Uzbekistan is budget-friendly when it comes to accommodation, especially outside the main tourist corridors like Samarkand or Khiva where prices can climb slightly (Bukhara is surprisingly cheap). In Tashkent and other major cities, there’s a solid offering of hostels and hotels — often recently built and unusually stylish for Central Asia. Dorm beds are widely available and cheap, and many guesthouses offer private rooms with shared bathrooms and a basic breakfast (usually bread, eggs and tea). However, just like in other parts of the region, don’t blindly trust the online “private room” label. Solo travellers might find themselves being “upgraded” into shared situations (read: strangers in your room), so messaging ahead to confirm privacy is highly recommended. Many guesthouse owners are still figuring out booking platforms, so misunderstandings are common. Cash is still the norm, only the more upscale hotels take card. Writer’s choice: I stayed in a 4-bed dormitory in the Markhaba Hostel, which was (at first sight) clean, airconditioned and very central. No soap at any of the toilet sinks though, which sketched me out about the true hygiene standard. During my revisit (still sick, just there for the hospitals) I stayed in Hostel Oscar, which was in fact a hotel. The price-quality ratio was on point, but I saw they heavily increased the price since.
Couchsurfing: is legal and functional in Uzbekistan, although slightly less active than in western countries. Some hosts are still warming up to the platform, but you’ll find a few generous locals (especially in Tashkent) happy to share their home and stories. As always, personalization is key - don’t copy-paste, and show why you’re a good match. Most hosts don’t care about paid verification: positive reviews matter more. Cyclists can also try Warm Showers, which exists in the country but with a fairly limited host list.
Wild Camping: Unlike Kyrgyzstan, wild camping in Uzbekistan exists in a legal grey area. While not explicitly banned, it’s not officially encouraged either - and it’s not culturally common. In cities or suburbs, it’s a no-go. In remote nature areas, discreet camping is generally tolerated. Police may ask questions or request ID. Be extra careful near borders (especially Kazakhstan and Afghanistan), as these areas are patrolled and can be sensitive. When in doubt, ask a local if it’s alright, hospitality is very central to Uzbek culture.

Mama Said

Safety: Uzbekistan is one of the safest countries in Central Asia. Crime rates are low, and tourists are rarely targeted. There’s a visible police presence, especially in Tashkent and tourist zones, which may feel either reassuring or intrusive. Police might do passport checks, especially near major squares or train stations. Always carry a copy or digital scan if you don’t want to flash the real one. Avoid photographing police, government buildings or checkpoints. Note that drones are illegal in the entire country, and they’ll confiscate it upon arrival (what a waste!). Locals are helpful and curious, though you'll get plenty of stares.
Negotiating: Bargaining is expected at markets and especially with taxi drivers or in a context of shared transport (if you despise that as much as I do, download Yandex Go to get the standard rate at all times, without reversed discrimination). Prices are often fixed in restaurants and shops, but in tourist areas or bazaars, it’s game on. Sellers will toss out inflated prices, especially if you’re visibly foreign. Tip: Ask a local how much the going rate is and bring the exact change, saying that’s all the cash you have. They will not turn down the opportunity of profit, even if it’s less than they had hoped to squeeze out of you.
Tap Water: Generally not save to drink for foreign stomachs, even locals boil it. Tip: Most guesthouses offer a hot water kettle, which you can use to boil your own drinking water and refill bottles.
Health care is free at the state-run hospitals in Uzbekistan, also for foreigners (even multi-day hospitalization is free of charge). You will only be required to pay for the (cheap) medication or any medical appliances used, which can be done at the pharmacies generally located inside of the hospitals. As due to an intense food poisoning I got a bit too familiar with the local healthcare system, I can also confirm that the downside is that there won’t be any English-speaking doctors, conditions can be rundown and incredibly unhygienic and there is no air-conditioning or even a fan, also when it’s over 45 degrees. The overall system is very chaotic with limited treatment options, and there is zero privacy with other random patients constantly impatiently entering the office while you’re being treated. It’s also common for doctors to just share your personal medical condition with anyone who wants to hear it, including other curious patients. Without a clear system, it’s never anyone’s turn and Uzbeks aren’t familiar with forming lines or waiting out their turn to be attended, which is very stressful. If possible, go to a private and international hospital. Trust me, it’s worth it.
Money: Uzbekistan is still largely a cash society, though card acceptance is improving (without additional fees). ATMs are everywhere in the capital but are more scarce or unreliable in rural areas. The cash-out limits of the ATM machines are generally rather low. Tip: Withdraw from Kapitalbank, Ipak Yuli, or Asaka Bank for best odds - other banks often reject foreign cards or spit out error codes for sport. Watch out for: currency exchange scams, which still exist at borders and back alleys. Only exchange at official banks.
The best credit/debit card for traveling is Wise, hands down. It uses real exchange rates with the lowest fees and lets you hold multiple currencies, although not the Uzbek som. Revolut works too, but has higher weekend rates and fewer features.
Simcards are super cheap and easy. Main providers are Beeline, Ucell, Mobiuz, and Uzmobile. Most travelers go with Beeline for widest coverage and foreigner-friendliness, but I went with Ucell (with varying reliability). Bring your passport to buy and register, and ask them to get it started before you leave the store (unless you’re fluent in Uzbek or Russian). Avoid airport kiosks charging five times the street price. For peace of mind, get your sim at a major store in the city, like the Beeline office near Mustaqillik Square. Plans usually come with more data than you’ll ever need. Note that internet, both in guesthouses and from your own data, is rather slow.
Public toilets are rare and rarely good (though charged). Bring your own paper and hand sanitizer. Usually there is no soap or even water to wash your hands (hence the swift carry-over of viruses).
Google Maps is mostly reliable in cities, but sketchy in rural areas. Use 2GIS or Yandex Maps instead.
The power can cut out randomly, especially outside of Tashkent: a small power bank is a lifesaver.

Transport

Walking: Samarkand’s core is surprisingly walkable. The main sights (Registan Square, Bibi Khanym Mosque, Gur Emir Mausoleum, and Siyob Bazaar) are all within a reasonable radius. Sidewalks are there, sometimes even uninterrupted. Outside this central cluster, distances stretch and shade becomes scarce, especially brutal in summer.
Cycling: Doable in theory, regrettable in practice. Samarkand drivers don’t expect bikes, bike lanes are rare to non-existent, and potholes are abundant. If you must, stick to wide boulevards.
Public Transport: No metro here. The city runs on a web of city buses and marshrutkas (minibuses), which connect most districts. They’re cheap, frequent, and chaotic. You pay in exact cash to the driver. Bus stops are marked, marshrutkas stop anywhere. Use 2GIS or Yandex Maps for routes - Google Maps is mostly useless.
Train: Uzbekistan has a modern, comfortable high-speed rail network. Unlike Kazakhstan and Kyrgzystan though, it is much more expensive than taking a bus or even shared taxi (up to 3-4x more expensive!). The Afrosiyob bullet train is the fastest and most foreigner-friendly option, connecting to Bukhara, Tashkent and Khiva. I took the cheaper option from Tashkent to Jizzax and while it was 45c outside, this train managed to be somehow much hotter: proper hellfire. 0*, won’t recommend. Book online in advance via the official railway site (local phone nr needed) or at the station with your passport.
Taxi / Uber: The ride-hailing app Yandex Go works reliably in Samarkand (local SIM needed). It’s very cheap, avoids the whole haggling circus, and can be paid by card if your setup allows. Do not flag taxis off the street unless you enjoy paying the tourist price.
Car Rental: Not common, not cheap. Only worth considering if you're planning to drive into the mountains or explore more remote regions. Better deals through local agencies than international names.
Airport: Samarkand International Airport (SKD) is only about 15 minutes from town. A Yandex downtown is the most sensible option (much cheaper than taking one of the cabs lined up at the airport).
Hitchhiking: Technically possible, but rarely free. Locals often flag down cars as informal taxis (not with their thumbs up, but with their index finger down), so many drivers will expect payment, especially if you look foreign. Discuss terms before you hop in or stick to shared taxis and marshrutkas.

Next?

In Uzbekistan: Zaamin National Park, Jizzax, Tashkent, Bukhara, Khiva, Fergana Valley, Termez.
International Destinations Close By: Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, Tajikistan, Turkmenistan, Afghanistan.

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