Pacific Crest Trail: Section J (Washington)
Not in the story-mood? Scroll down for the Quick Budget Fact Overview: an itemized information summary of the United States! ↓
I just finished pedalling 9,500km across Canada. Coast-to-coast, two tires, one very sore backside. Yet, summer wasn't quite done with me yet. After an attempted rest period of a week, I was desperately itching for another dose of the Great Outdoors, right before that lovely sun would stop shining. Maybe on my own two feet this time? First and foremost, I identify as a hiker, with cycling coming in second place for me. With my first journey across the United States in the prognosis, I started looking into interesting long-distance trails in the first state I would set foot in: Washington. How could I resist the siren song of the Evergreen State? That's when the Pacific Crest Trail decided to whisper sweet nothings (mostly about far-stretched vistas and crippling blisters) in my ear. For the uninitiated, the PCT is a real heavyweight champ in the long-distance hiking arena. We're talking a western 4265km (2650 miles) odyssey snaking from the Mexican border all the way up to Canada, over a rollercoaster of a terrain that could make a mountain goat contemplate early retirement. It's a pilgrimage for those seeking solitude, sweat, and an unparalleled connection with nature (and maybe a deep, abiding hatred of trail mix). Now, tackling the whole shebang wasn't in the cards for this particular post-cycling lunatic, I simply didn’t have enough snow-free days left… but the Washington section? That tantalizing 814-km stretch promised all the forested splendor, challenging climbs, and soul-searching moments I could cram into a few weeks. So, with slightly wobbly legs and a backpack full of resilience, I dove headfirst into the Washington section of the PCT, absolutely unaware of the challenges I just signed up for.
Too busy to read now? No problem, save it for later!
Save on Get Pocket | Save in Browser Bookmarks| Save on Instapaper
Save on Get Pocket | Save in Browser Bookmarks| Save on Instapaper
Section J (southbound): Stevens Pass – Snoqualmie Pass
“Day 0:” Preparation & Stevens Pass – Trap Lake
Distance: ±19 km.
GPS: All Trails.
Ascent:1060m.
Descent: ± 635m (detour strong descent).
Terrain: Clear trail, rocky.
Water Situation: Plenty of sources (filtering needed), check FarOut app.
Food Resupply Options: Stevens Pass.
(Misty morning, sunny afternoon, cold night)
So, here I am, attempting to tame the mighty Pacific Crest Trail, or at least a sliver of it. Now, eagle-eyed readers may spot a couple of quirks in my grand plan. Firstly, I'm tackling this beast backwards! Why? Well, late-season logic dictates that I should probably knock out the frosty, high-altitude north first, and ease my way down into the (hopefully) slightly warmer southern section stretching out towards Oregon. Secondly, and perhaps more dramatically, I'm giving Sections K (Stevens Pass – Rainy Pass) and L (Rainy Pass – Manning Park/ Northern Terminus Canada*) the finger. No, I haven't suddenly developed an aversion to K and L – it's just that Mother Nature decided to throw a fiery tantrum right in the middle of them. Forest fires, you see, are the unwelcome guests at this geographic party, and I'm not about to waltz into a barbecue I wasn't invited to. This is a common element to take into account and often detours are swiftly created by the PCT community, but in this section a decent alternative was lacking. It’s frustrating to not be able to walk from Canada, but then again, so is dying on the trail. So, I'm jumping in at Stevens Pass, with a hopeful eye towards conquering the skipped sections later. Though, spoiler alert: the weather had other ideas, throwing early-October blizzards into the mix... I'll get back there one day to complete those sections, during my future attempt to finish the entire PCT, including the Oregon and the gigantic California segment.
* Please note that you have to hike Section L up and down again. You can’t legally go into Canada from here, so you have to turn around at the Northern Terminus and walk these same days back. More information on these sections can be found here.
So, Stevens Pass it was! But hold on a minute, even I had to admit that simply rocking up and hoping for the best wasn't going to cut it on the PCT. I'm usually a "wing it" kinda-gal, zero prep whatsoever, but apparently, the Pacific Crest Trail demands a smidge more consideration. Weeks, months, even years of planning, if you believe the chatter of the online PCT community! In my case, I settled with... a few days… which is, considering my general happy-go-lucky approach, already outrageously long. You see, where on a European long-distance walk food, medical attention or any kind of services are generally max. 48hrs walking away, here you’re properly out there. Like, truly in the wild. Nothing around. Even though this is my 4th thru-hike, this is an entirely new situation to me. Suddenly, food resupply became a strategic operation. No nipping to the village store every few days. Instead, you’ll have to wrestle with calorie counts, hiking speed calculations and exact distances between resupply points. In some cases you’ll have to send yourself a food package to be held by a hotel or gas station, as even though you might cross a road or village, that doesn’t necessarily mean there is an actual store. I'd need enough to fuel my high-burning-hiking-body, but not so much that I'd break my back carrying it. I accepted a housesit in Whidbey Island to grant myself the time to complete this tricky, unwelcome task.
“Day 0:” Preparation & Stevens Pass – Trap Lake
Distance: ±19 km.
GPS: All Trails.
Ascent:1060m.
Descent: ± 635m (detour strong descent).
Terrain: Clear trail, rocky.
Water Situation: Plenty of sources (filtering needed), check FarOut app.
Food Resupply Options: Stevens Pass.
(Misty morning, sunny afternoon, cold night)
So, here I am, attempting to tame the mighty Pacific Crest Trail, or at least a sliver of it. Now, eagle-eyed readers may spot a couple of quirks in my grand plan. Firstly, I'm tackling this beast backwards! Why? Well, late-season logic dictates that I should probably knock out the frosty, high-altitude north first, and ease my way down into the (hopefully) slightly warmer southern section stretching out towards Oregon. Secondly, and perhaps more dramatically, I'm giving Sections K (Stevens Pass – Rainy Pass) and L (Rainy Pass – Manning Park/ Northern Terminus Canada*) the finger. No, I haven't suddenly developed an aversion to K and L – it's just that Mother Nature decided to throw a fiery tantrum right in the middle of them. Forest fires, you see, are the unwelcome guests at this geographic party, and I'm not about to waltz into a barbecue I wasn't invited to. This is a common element to take into account and often detours are swiftly created by the PCT community, but in this section a decent alternative was lacking. It’s frustrating to not be able to walk from Canada, but then again, so is dying on the trail. So, I'm jumping in at Stevens Pass, with a hopeful eye towards conquering the skipped sections later. Though, spoiler alert: the weather had other ideas, throwing early-October blizzards into the mix... I'll get back there one day to complete those sections, during my future attempt to finish the entire PCT, including the Oregon and the gigantic California segment.
* Please note that you have to hike Section L up and down again. You can’t legally go into Canada from here, so you have to turn around at the Northern Terminus and walk these same days back. More information on these sections can be found here.
So, Stevens Pass it was! But hold on a minute, even I had to admit that simply rocking up and hoping for the best wasn't going to cut it on the PCT. I'm usually a "wing it" kinda-gal, zero prep whatsoever, but apparently, the Pacific Crest Trail demands a smidge more consideration. Weeks, months, even years of planning, if you believe the chatter of the online PCT community! In my case, I settled with... a few days… which is, considering my general happy-go-lucky approach, already outrageously long. You see, where on a European long-distance walk food, medical attention or any kind of services are generally max. 48hrs walking away, here you’re properly out there. Like, truly in the wild. Nothing around. Even though this is my 4th thru-hike, this is an entirely new situation to me. Suddenly, food resupply became a strategic operation. No nipping to the village store every few days. Instead, you’ll have to wrestle with calorie counts, hiking speed calculations and exact distances between resupply points. In some cases you’ll have to send yourself a food package to be held by a hotel or gas station, as even though you might cross a road or village, that doesn’t necessarily mean there is an actual store. I'd need enough to fuel my high-burning-hiking-body, but not so much that I'd break my back carrying it. I accepted a housesit in Whidbey Island to grant myself the time to complete this tricky, unwelcome task.
After days of planning and a journey that looked short on the map, but really wasn’t, I finally arrived at Stevens Pass. The last leg involved hitchhiking, a practice apparently so common on the PCT sections that locals practically compete to offer rides. My driver, bless his heart, had a penchant for mountain lion attack stories – just the kind of pre-hike pep talk someone needs! My initial plan of today was to rest at Stevens Pass, a ski resort, and start hiking in the early morning hours… but the trail-bug bit hard. Why wait? Even though it was already 2PM, I filled out my (free) permit and set off. Immediate positive observation: The trail offers an abundance of water sources, handily mapped out by the FarOut-app. Speaking of this app: it’s worth its weight in digital gold. It shows exactly where the next water source is located, including the distance and elevation gain to reach it. Like this, you don't have to overcarry your water. A huge advantage, especially when going uphill. The app features user-generated intel on everything from available camping spots, trail intersections to dried-up water sources, with the latest comments automatically download with every little sliver of internet connection. Note: Most of the days you won’t have any reception on the trail though. Unfortunately, I also noticed that my knee already felt like it wanted to retire, without having walked a single meter yet… possibly due to a recent tumble. Far from ideal.
This first day involved tackling three mountains, which, surprisingly, weren't as brutal as anticipated. The views were hitting hard right from the get-go. Glorious, remote, wild… yet at this point still full of fellow hikers, especially because I was going into the opposite direction and came across double the number. From a safety perspective, this might be an upside, as many of the full-on-PCT’ers carry a Garmin Mini, a GPS device that allows one to notify emergency services when needed. The trail itself was easy to follow, well-maintained, no overgrowth, while offering that rewarding feeling of being utterly unplugged from civilization. I pushed onward, chasing the promise of a spectacular sunset and sunrise at Trap Lake. After all, that’s the stuff I’m here for.
This first day involved tackling three mountains, which, surprisingly, weren't as brutal as anticipated. The views were hitting hard right from the get-go. Glorious, remote, wild… yet at this point still full of fellow hikers, especially because I was going into the opposite direction and came across double the number. From a safety perspective, this might be an upside, as many of the full-on-PCT’ers carry a Garmin Mini, a GPS device that allows one to notify emergency services when needed. The trail itself was easy to follow, well-maintained, no overgrowth, while offering that rewarding feeling of being utterly unplugged from civilization. I pushed onward, chasing the promise of a spectacular sunset and sunrise at Trap Lake. After all, that’s the stuff I’m here for.
Day 1: Trap Lake – Cathedral Rock
Distance: 22km.
GPS: FarOut App.
Ascent:1000m.
Descent: 1143m .
Terrain: Clear trail, but rocky and uneven at times. Confusing southbound river crossing.
Water Situation: Plenty of sources (filtering needed), check FarOut app. During the last part, climbing up to Cathedral Rock, in my season all water sources were dried out.
Food Resupply Options: None.
(Sunny)
A menacing rock slide balanced above the otherwise downright idyllic camping area around Trap Lake. Not wanting to become part of a geological rearrangement, I had strategically pitched my tent behind a large boulder, figuring it offered some protection in the event of further slippage. Turns out, it also kept me out of the wind gusts, apparently targeting all tents except of mine. During breakfast preparation I learned that apparently a whole regiment of mice have declared war on my carbs by eating all my bread, which, due to the sheer amount of food I had to carry until the next resupply point, was partly outside of my bear canister. I learned a valuable lesson straight away: bear canisters aren't just for bears… any type of rodent turn out to be incredibly interested in your food supply. If, like many PCT hikers, I would’ve hung my food in the tree, all would’ve been gone by now, forcing me to turn around (many rodents as well as bears can climb trees, of course, so a bear hang won’t be of much assistance). Worse, if I would have stashed my food inside of my tent, they would have eaten right through, creating an additional problem. I’ve had this happen to me before, on the W-Trek in Chilean Patagonia at Torres del Paine. You need only one instant of mice running over your face while you’re sleeping, to have a lesson learned for a lifetime. Luckily, in this case I was already ahead of schedule, so a little less bread doesn't spell disaster.
Distance: 22km.
GPS: FarOut App.
Ascent:1000m.
Descent: 1143m .
Terrain: Clear trail, but rocky and uneven at times. Confusing southbound river crossing.
Water Situation: Plenty of sources (filtering needed), check FarOut app. During the last part, climbing up to Cathedral Rock, in my season all water sources were dried out.
Food Resupply Options: None.
(Sunny)
A menacing rock slide balanced above the otherwise downright idyllic camping area around Trap Lake. Not wanting to become part of a geological rearrangement, I had strategically pitched my tent behind a large boulder, figuring it offered some protection in the event of further slippage. Turns out, it also kept me out of the wind gusts, apparently targeting all tents except of mine. During breakfast preparation I learned that apparently a whole regiment of mice have declared war on my carbs by eating all my bread, which, due to the sheer amount of food I had to carry until the next resupply point, was partly outside of my bear canister. I learned a valuable lesson straight away: bear canisters aren't just for bears… any type of rodent turn out to be incredibly interested in your food supply. If, like many PCT hikers, I would’ve hung my food in the tree, all would’ve been gone by now, forcing me to turn around (many rodents as well as bears can climb trees, of course, so a bear hang won’t be of much assistance). Worse, if I would have stashed my food inside of my tent, they would have eaten right through, creating an additional problem. I’ve had this happen to me before, on the W-Trek in Chilean Patagonia at Torres del Paine. You need only one instant of mice running over your face while you’re sleeping, to have a lesson learned for a lifetime. Luckily, in this case I was already ahead of schedule, so a little less bread doesn't spell disaster.
I'm usually one of those annoyingly efficient hikers who likes to knock out a quick 10k before my mid-morning coffee. On relatively flat ground, that is. Turns out, these mountains beg to disagree. Also my knee had some strong opinions on the matter. Despite the protests, my stubborn, slightly OCD brain insisted we stick to the plan. I did reach my 10k goal before lunch, but let's just say my reward was a symphony of pain and a fresh collection of blisters. I might’ve been top fit from the cycling endeavour, but hiking entails other muscles and pressure points. I’m reaping the fruits from my heavily trained legs in the ascends, but the downhills are unforgiving for my already battered knee. That said, the scenery was breathtaking, which is the universe's way of bribing you to keep going with a smile on your face, despite the hardships. Rugged summits, dense woodlands, and a brilliant blue lake that takes the form of a heart… Washington truly is generous.
Today kicked my ass though. I reached camp limping, with only a lousy 22km under my belt. The pain and the early sunset at 8PM prevented me from continuing any further. The forecast shouts rain for the night and the day to come, which filled me with the kind of dread usually reserved for taxes. Wet tents are my nemesis. Rain, in general, is an unwelcome guest in any of my outdoor adventures, so fingers crossed for a meteorological miracle.
Today kicked my ass though. I reached camp limping, with only a lousy 22km under my belt. The pain and the early sunset at 8PM prevented me from continuing any further. The forecast shouts rain for the night and the day to come, which filled me with the kind of dread usually reserved for taxes. Wet tents are my nemesis. Rain, in general, is an unwelcome guest in any of my outdoor adventures, so fingers crossed for a meteorological miracle.
Day 2: Cathedral Rock – Escondido Point
Distance: 23.8km.
GPS: FarOut App.
Ascent: 770m.
Descent: 910m .
Terrain: Clear trail, but rocky and uneven most of the day.
Water Situation: Limited sources, check the FarOut app. Plenty of availability in the valley, but at higher elevation all sources were dried out (end Sept).
Food Resupply Options: None.
(Rainy night, drizzle during the day)
I woke up nestled under a granite overhang cheekily named "Cathedral Rock" in a tiny, almost secretive, campsite built for one (that's me!). Yesterday I had to haul up all my water to be able to camp here, as this time of the year, the water sources at higher elevation were all dried out. Picture this: a cozy nook, a roaring rainstorm, and a tent singing the blues all night long. Let's just say my beauty sleep took a rain check (see what I did there, haha, RAIN check… okay, sorry, moving on). The next morning dawned with a slight drizzle, as a modest consolation price.
Today had an interesting start. Imagine meeting someone who's not just finished hiking the Pacific Crest Trail, but decided to turn around and do it again. This individual, radiating the kind of quiet confidence only earned through conquering 4265km, had reached the Northern Terminus and, without missing a beat, started walking south. Why? Because he could, and frankly, why not? Fuelled by the sheer joy of the trail and a schedule with wiggle room, he was crushing out 40km a day. Picture running into the same people you met weeks ago, only now you're both heading in opposite directions – a testament to the magnetic pull of the PCT and the incredible endurance it forges.
Distance: 23.8km.
GPS: FarOut App.
Ascent: 770m.
Descent: 910m .
Terrain: Clear trail, but rocky and uneven most of the day.
Water Situation: Limited sources, check the FarOut app. Plenty of availability in the valley, but at higher elevation all sources were dried out (end Sept).
Food Resupply Options: None.
(Rainy night, drizzle during the day)
I woke up nestled under a granite overhang cheekily named "Cathedral Rock" in a tiny, almost secretive, campsite built for one (that's me!). Yesterday I had to haul up all my water to be able to camp here, as this time of the year, the water sources at higher elevation were all dried out. Picture this: a cozy nook, a roaring rainstorm, and a tent singing the blues all night long. Let's just say my beauty sleep took a rain check (see what I did there, haha, RAIN check… okay, sorry, moving on). The next morning dawned with a slight drizzle, as a modest consolation price.
Today had an interesting start. Imagine meeting someone who's not just finished hiking the Pacific Crest Trail, but decided to turn around and do it again. This individual, radiating the kind of quiet confidence only earned through conquering 4265km, had reached the Northern Terminus and, without missing a beat, started walking south. Why? Because he could, and frankly, why not? Fuelled by the sheer joy of the trail and a schedule with wiggle room, he was crushing out 40km a day. Picture running into the same people you met weeks ago, only now you're both heading in opposite directions – a testament to the magnetic pull of the PCT and the incredible endurance it forges.
Roaming the trail I get him, somehow. These climbs are worth it for the panoramas alone, offering views so expansive they practically require a cinematic score. The trail boasts lovely meditative stretches through the forest today (perfect for contemplating your life choices, or maybe just what you're having for lunch), yet also experiments with its sadistic love affair with the rocks. We're talking ankle-twisting, soul-crushing rocks that demand your undivided attention. Forget about putting your foot on autopilot: Every step becomes a strategic calculation, a delicate dance between avoiding a faceplant and preserving what little feeling remains in your blister-ridden feet. My blister-ridden feet. That’s right, I committed the cardinal sin of hiking: I trusted new shoes. Foolishly, I'd worn them a full week before kicking off, lulled into a false sense of security. The trail, however, offered a brutal reality check, and my feet are now staging a full-blown rebellion. One blister in particular has achieved impressive, almost golfball-like proportions, and it's filled with a delightful mix of liquid, puss and blood. The situation got so dire I had to scramble up the last stretch in flip-flops. On the “bright” side: the foot pain became so intense, I couldn’t even pay attention to my ongoing knee issue anymore. What a lucky bastard I am!
I finally pitched my tent in the pouring rain. During which, for a final flourish, a tent pole decided to snap, requiring a repair in the full-on downpour. Seriously? Thankfully, I came somewhat prepared, so I had a repair kit and super glue to secure a stable night. The miserable weather forced me to eat inside my only shelter. Something that’s otherwise never a good idea, as the sheer smell of food might keep lingering in your tent and attract some unwanted, furry visitors at night. I started this track with endless enthusiasm, but a collection of unfortunate events are catching up with me. I crawled into my sleeping bag with one final thought of the day: I need to get back to Seattle. My wounds need healing, I need to swap these boots-of-torture for my old, trampled ones that have been broken in for years, and new tent poles are on the wishlist. If only I could summon a portal to Seattle right now... Instead, I have to limp my way out of this mountain pass first. Two more days until civilization, hang in there Steph!
I finally pitched my tent in the pouring rain. During which, for a final flourish, a tent pole decided to snap, requiring a repair in the full-on downpour. Seriously? Thankfully, I came somewhat prepared, so I had a repair kit and super glue to secure a stable night. The miserable weather forced me to eat inside my only shelter. Something that’s otherwise never a good idea, as the sheer smell of food might keep lingering in your tent and attract some unwanted, furry visitors at night. I started this track with endless enthusiasm, but a collection of unfortunate events are catching up with me. I crawled into my sleeping bag with one final thought of the day: I need to get back to Seattle. My wounds need healing, I need to swap these boots-of-torture for my old, trampled ones that have been broken in for years, and new tent poles are on the wishlist. If only I could summon a portal to Seattle right now... Instead, I have to limp my way out of this mountain pass first. Two more days until civilization, hang in there Steph!
Day 3: Escondido Point – Four Brothers
Distance: 25.5km.
GPS: FarOut App.
Ascent: 1068m.
Descent: 1045m .
Terrain: Clear trail, but rocky and uneven most of the day. Challenging section.
Water Situation: Limited sources, check the FarOut app. Plenty of availability in the valley, but in higher elevation all sources were dried out (end Sept).
Food Resupply Options: None.
(Drizzle, thick clouds)
Good morning, welcome to hell. My feet have officially declared war, each side sporting a dripping medley of blisters and open wounds. I even resorted to sleeping with threads poking through them (a glamorous hiker’s spa treatment, I assure you), but they keep refilling like nasty little waterballoons. And the cherry on top of this foot-flavored sundae? Traversing a mountain pass in flip-flops, once again, trying my best to maintain a chipper facade while my feet screamed bloody murder. Thankfully, the scenery was as breathtaking as ever, a daily reminder that even in the face of excruciating challenges, there's still beauty to be found. Honestly, to an almost ridiculous degree here in Washington – I'm starting to think the state is just shamelessly showing off at this point. I kicked off with a breakfast-view over a lake that practically begged for a spot on a desktop background, and then proceeded to be showered by increasingly gorgeous scenery: lush meadows, dense forests… it’s the kind of beauty that makes you want to stand on a mountaintop and serenade the country as a whole. I can definitely see why there’s a national complex about being “the world’s greatest” when you have landscapes like this – it's hard to be humble when your backyard looks like the Garden of Eden.
I had some lovely chats with fellow hikers, mainly the section-hikers like myself. The full-PCT crowd, bless their souls, seem to be on a mission – less chatty, eyes on the price and focused on the finish line. A friend who actually completed the whole thing a few years ago mentioned a sort of "purist" hiking hierarchy, where some of those tackling the whole itinerary look down on us losers just hitting a section or so, the plebs of the trail. Well, colour me a happy pleb, especially with my new-found huckleberry addiction, introduced to me by a fellow trailblazer. Turns out these little sweet berries are a vitamin-packed trail treat! Finally, a fresh fruit experience without having to add a pound to my hefty pack weight. Yes, the social interactions were on point today, yet the wildlife memo seems to have been lost in the post. In anticipation of the adventure, I had imagined myself high-fiving bears while majestic bald eagles landed on my shoulder. Instead, I've been surrounded by... marmots. Loads of them. These furry little friends are basically the tiny, whistling landlords of the mountainside. I've also spotted a few bouncy squirrels and those adorable striped chipmunks - the latter a creature I've only ever seen in cartoons before. That said, I'm quite alright with the absence of the announced mountain lions (by the way: did you know the words puma, cougar and mountain lion all refer to the same animal?).
Summed up, a great day with dire personal conditions. Literally the only thing pushing me forward is the idea of making it to Snoqualmie Pass a.s.a.p. and getting out of these shoes. I'm not throwing in the towel just yet, but I gotta change this situation I got myself into. Tomorrow I’ll rise with the sun to make a mad dash for civilization, hopefully getting a ride out before sunset.
Distance: 25.5km.
GPS: FarOut App.
Ascent: 1068m.
Descent: 1045m .
Terrain: Clear trail, but rocky and uneven most of the day. Challenging section.
Water Situation: Limited sources, check the FarOut app. Plenty of availability in the valley, but in higher elevation all sources were dried out (end Sept).
Food Resupply Options: None.
(Drizzle, thick clouds)
Good morning, welcome to hell. My feet have officially declared war, each side sporting a dripping medley of blisters and open wounds. I even resorted to sleeping with threads poking through them (a glamorous hiker’s spa treatment, I assure you), but they keep refilling like nasty little waterballoons. And the cherry on top of this foot-flavored sundae? Traversing a mountain pass in flip-flops, once again, trying my best to maintain a chipper facade while my feet screamed bloody murder. Thankfully, the scenery was as breathtaking as ever, a daily reminder that even in the face of excruciating challenges, there's still beauty to be found. Honestly, to an almost ridiculous degree here in Washington – I'm starting to think the state is just shamelessly showing off at this point. I kicked off with a breakfast-view over a lake that practically begged for a spot on a desktop background, and then proceeded to be showered by increasingly gorgeous scenery: lush meadows, dense forests… it’s the kind of beauty that makes you want to stand on a mountaintop and serenade the country as a whole. I can definitely see why there’s a national complex about being “the world’s greatest” when you have landscapes like this – it's hard to be humble when your backyard looks like the Garden of Eden.
I had some lovely chats with fellow hikers, mainly the section-hikers like myself. The full-PCT crowd, bless their souls, seem to be on a mission – less chatty, eyes on the price and focused on the finish line. A friend who actually completed the whole thing a few years ago mentioned a sort of "purist" hiking hierarchy, where some of those tackling the whole itinerary look down on us losers just hitting a section or so, the plebs of the trail. Well, colour me a happy pleb, especially with my new-found huckleberry addiction, introduced to me by a fellow trailblazer. Turns out these little sweet berries are a vitamin-packed trail treat! Finally, a fresh fruit experience without having to add a pound to my hefty pack weight. Yes, the social interactions were on point today, yet the wildlife memo seems to have been lost in the post. In anticipation of the adventure, I had imagined myself high-fiving bears while majestic bald eagles landed on my shoulder. Instead, I've been surrounded by... marmots. Loads of them. These furry little friends are basically the tiny, whistling landlords of the mountainside. I've also spotted a few bouncy squirrels and those adorable striped chipmunks - the latter a creature I've only ever seen in cartoons before. That said, I'm quite alright with the absence of the announced mountain lions (by the way: did you know the words puma, cougar and mountain lion all refer to the same animal?).
Summed up, a great day with dire personal conditions. Literally the only thing pushing me forward is the idea of making it to Snoqualmie Pass a.s.a.p. and getting out of these shoes. I'm not throwing in the towel just yet, but I gotta change this situation I got myself into. Tomorrow I’ll rise with the sun to make a mad dash for civilization, hopefully getting a ride out before sunset.
Day 4: Four Brothers – Snoqualmie Pass
Distance: 23.6km.
GPS: FarOut App.
Ascent: 965m.
Descent: 1553m .
Terrain: Clear trail, but rocky and uneven most of the day. Most challenging stretch of Section J.
Water Situation: Limited sources, check the FarOut app. You’ve got to plan it well.
Food Resupply Options: Snoqualmie Pass (gas station, better to send yourself a package here in advance with more varied an affordable food – they hold it here for PCT hikers).
(Sunny)
There I was, a 5-AM-riser not by choice, but by the sheer, bone-aching necessity of escaping the wilderness. My mission that day was clear – survival, but the civilized kind with, you know, bed-rest and maybe a soothing foot massage. After three days of trekking through the tears without an alternative possibility to get out (I might be a bit of a drama queen at times, but a helicopter rescue seemed still a bit exaggerated), I was ready for a sweet release.
It was going to be a day that is probably the prettiest of the J-Section, but also one of the most challenging ones, especially in the high-elevation area. I was tackling the Four Brothers, a quartet of peaks serving up views so good they should be illegal. Especially during that magical time of morning when the valley was still snoozing under a cloud blanket, while I was up above, feeling like some kind of mountain royalty. All the while with Mount Rainier casually photobombing from a distance, like a celebrity making a surprise appearance. My first glimpse of this famous mountain, and what a hottie he is! Yet, at the same time, the trail was the hardest I experienced in this section so far. I’m talking pure scrambling. Balancing on loose, slate-like rocks that seemed determined to send you tumbling into the abyss. Each step was a delicate negotiation with gravity. One misstep and, well, let’s just say this magnificent Mount-Rainier-view would be your last. Uttermost concentration and stoical mind control for pain management was needed to keep setting one foot in front of the other. Between you and me, I hiked some kilometres crying.
Distance: 23.6km.
GPS: FarOut App.
Ascent: 965m.
Descent: 1553m .
Terrain: Clear trail, but rocky and uneven most of the day. Most challenging stretch of Section J.
Water Situation: Limited sources, check the FarOut app. You’ve got to plan it well.
Food Resupply Options: Snoqualmie Pass (gas station, better to send yourself a package here in advance with more varied an affordable food – they hold it here for PCT hikers).
(Sunny)
There I was, a 5-AM-riser not by choice, but by the sheer, bone-aching necessity of escaping the wilderness. My mission that day was clear – survival, but the civilized kind with, you know, bed-rest and maybe a soothing foot massage. After three days of trekking through the tears without an alternative possibility to get out (I might be a bit of a drama queen at times, but a helicopter rescue seemed still a bit exaggerated), I was ready for a sweet release.
It was going to be a day that is probably the prettiest of the J-Section, but also one of the most challenging ones, especially in the high-elevation area. I was tackling the Four Brothers, a quartet of peaks serving up views so good they should be illegal. Especially during that magical time of morning when the valley was still snoozing under a cloud blanket, while I was up above, feeling like some kind of mountain royalty. All the while with Mount Rainier casually photobombing from a distance, like a celebrity making a surprise appearance. My first glimpse of this famous mountain, and what a hottie he is! Yet, at the same time, the trail was the hardest I experienced in this section so far. I’m talking pure scrambling. Balancing on loose, slate-like rocks that seemed determined to send you tumbling into the abyss. Each step was a delicate negotiation with gravity. One misstep and, well, let’s just say this magnificent Mount-Rainier-view would be your last. Uttermost concentration and stoical mind control for pain management was needed to keep setting one foot in front of the other. Between you and me, I hiked some kilometres crying.
Nearing the end you’ll pass by a lake, one of many, the end destination of the Kendall Catwalk kicking off on the other end from Highway 90: a popular day-hike for those escaping the Seattle bustle. Truth being told, after the breathtaking vistas I'd just traversed, this watery locale felt a little "meh". It was undeniably a very welcome water source, a rare commodity on this last stretch of Section J, but let's just say it wasn’t setting off any fireworks. You know what did? Spotting the highway snaking through the valley below. Normally, I'm the first to champion the solace of nature over the jarring intrusion of civilization, but today? It was pure bliss, a glorious sign that my flip-flop-clad pilgrimage to salvation was nearing its end. I may have even shed a tear (or two, who's counting?) of pure, unadulterated relief. I hitched a ride straight away, and in that moment, I knew I had done it. I'd not only conquered this painful Section J stained by poor decisions, but more importantly, my own predicament. Now, let’s get patched up!
Quick Budget Fact Overview
US Facts
Short History Recap
1565: 1st permanent European settlement: St Augustine, now Florida (Spanish). 1607: Jamestown, Virginia, founded by English. 17th-18th centuries: 100,000s of Africans brought in as slaves to work on cotton and tobacco plantations. 1763: Seven Years' War: England gets control over territory up to the Mississippi. ’74: Colonists form First Continental Congress. ’75: American Revolution: Continental Army under George Washington fight British rule. ’76: Declaration of Independence, colonies declare independence. ’83: Treaty of Paris, UK loses colonies. ’87: Founding Fathers, new constitution. ’89: George Washington first president. ’91: Bill of Rights, individual freedom. 1803: France sells Louisiana to US. ’08: Atlantic slave trade abolished. ‘12-’15: War of 1812 US -UK. Resistance by indigenous people. Massive European immigration. Number of states rises from 17 to 45.’46-48: Mexican War - US acquires large territories of Mexico, incl. New Mexico & California.’54: Abolitionists of slavery start Republican Party. ’60: Abraham Lincoln Republican president. ‘60-’61: 11 pro-slavery southern states secede from Union and form Confederate States of America = civil war with abolitionist northern states. ’63: Emancipation Proclamation by Lincoln, slaves in Confederate free. ’65: Slavery abolished in 13th Amendment. Lincoln killed. ’98: Spanish-American War = Puerto Rico, Philippines, Guam & Cuba American. US annexes Hawaii. 1917-’18: US mingles in WWI. Rejects membership of League of Nation. ’20: Women voting right. Sale and manufacture of alcohol forbidden. ’24: Indigenous people allowed citizenship. ’29-33: Wall Street stock market crash, triggers the Great Depression. Roosevelt’s "New Deal" recovery programme. Alcohol legal again. ’41: Japanese Pearl Harbour attack. Leads to US joining WWII against Axis powers. ’45: US drops 2 atomic bombs on Hiroshima & Nagasaki. ’47: Truman Doctrine: aid against communism. Start Cold War with Soviet Union. ’48: Marshall Plan. ‘50-’53: US participates in Korean War. ‘50-’54: Anti-communist crusade within US by Senator McCarthy.’54: Racial segregation in schools unconstitutional. Civil disobedience, pro African-American. ‘60: Nixon. ’61: Bay of Pigs = attempt to invade Cuba, unsuccessful. ’62: Cuban missile crisis. ’63: John F Kennedy assassinated. Johnson president. ’64: Military intervention Vietnam. Nationally, anti-discrimination law. ’68: Martin Luther King assassinated. ’69: Republican Nixon. Neil Armstrong on the Moon. ’73: Vietnam ceasefire. ’74: Watergate scandal, Nixon resigns. ’76: Carter. ’79: US embassy in Tehran hostage crisis. ’80: Reagan, Republican. Anti-communist. ’86: Bombing Libyan cities. ’88: Bush Sr. ’89: Panama invasion, Noriega arrested for drug-trafficking. ’91: Iraq War involvement. ’92: Clinton, democratic. ’92: Nafta. ’99: Nato bombardment Yugoslavia in response to Serb violence against ethnic Albanians in Kosovo. 2000: Bush Jr. ’01: 9/11, excuse for War on Terror. Invasions of Afghanistan and Iraq. Against Taliban. ’02: Department of Homeland Security. ’05: Hurricane Katrina. ’08: Democratic Obama, 1st black president. ’09: 1st Tea Party rally = protest against bailing out banks and introduce healthcare reform. ’11: Presumed Al-Qaeda leader Osama Bin Laden killed. ’13: Snowden flees to Russia after leaking info on extensive internet and telephone surveillance by US. ’14: Diplomatic relations with Cuba. ’16: Trump. ’17: Trump restricts visas for Muslim-majority countries. Recognises Jerusalem as capital of Israel & sovereignty over Golan Heights. ’18: Trump meets Kim Jong-un (North Korea). New Trade deal with Canada & Mexico. ’19: Withdrawing troops from northern Syria. Turkey occupy Kurdish-run parts, create buffer zone. Trump impeached by House of Representatives on charges of abuse of power and obstruction of Congress. ’20: Covid-19 pandemic. Nationwide protests about killing of African-American George Floyd. ’21: Biden. ’25: Trump again.
US Facts
- Capital: Washington DC
- Language: English (Spanish)
- Population: ± 334.9mln
- Sq km: ± 9,833,517
- Currency: Dollar ($ - USD)
- Electricity Outlet: A + B / 120 V / 60 Hz.
- Country Code Phone: +1
- Emergency Phone: 911
- Visa: Some countries need to apply for a visa, which can be done here .Residents of visa-exempt countries can apply online for a visa waiver, called an ESTA.
- Vaccinations: None.
- Climate: The country is so huge, that we’re dealing with several climate zones. Find a map overview here.
- High season: June-August. Summer attracts most crowds due to school vacations.
Short History Recap
1565: 1st permanent European settlement: St Augustine, now Florida (Spanish). 1607: Jamestown, Virginia, founded by English. 17th-18th centuries: 100,000s of Africans brought in as slaves to work on cotton and tobacco plantations. 1763: Seven Years' War: England gets control over territory up to the Mississippi. ’74: Colonists form First Continental Congress. ’75: American Revolution: Continental Army under George Washington fight British rule. ’76: Declaration of Independence, colonies declare independence. ’83: Treaty of Paris, UK loses colonies. ’87: Founding Fathers, new constitution. ’89: George Washington first president. ’91: Bill of Rights, individual freedom. 1803: France sells Louisiana to US. ’08: Atlantic slave trade abolished. ‘12-’15: War of 1812 US -UK. Resistance by indigenous people. Massive European immigration. Number of states rises from 17 to 45.’46-48: Mexican War - US acquires large territories of Mexico, incl. New Mexico & California.’54: Abolitionists of slavery start Republican Party. ’60: Abraham Lincoln Republican president. ‘60-’61: 11 pro-slavery southern states secede from Union and form Confederate States of America = civil war with abolitionist northern states. ’63: Emancipation Proclamation by Lincoln, slaves in Confederate free. ’65: Slavery abolished in 13th Amendment. Lincoln killed. ’98: Spanish-American War = Puerto Rico, Philippines, Guam & Cuba American. US annexes Hawaii. 1917-’18: US mingles in WWI. Rejects membership of League of Nation. ’20: Women voting right. Sale and manufacture of alcohol forbidden. ’24: Indigenous people allowed citizenship. ’29-33: Wall Street stock market crash, triggers the Great Depression. Roosevelt’s "New Deal" recovery programme. Alcohol legal again. ’41: Japanese Pearl Harbour attack. Leads to US joining WWII against Axis powers. ’45: US drops 2 atomic bombs on Hiroshima & Nagasaki. ’47: Truman Doctrine: aid against communism. Start Cold War with Soviet Union. ’48: Marshall Plan. ‘50-’53: US participates in Korean War. ‘50-’54: Anti-communist crusade within US by Senator McCarthy.’54: Racial segregation in schools unconstitutional. Civil disobedience, pro African-American. ‘60: Nixon. ’61: Bay of Pigs = attempt to invade Cuba, unsuccessful. ’62: Cuban missile crisis. ’63: John F Kennedy assassinated. Johnson president. ’64: Military intervention Vietnam. Nationally, anti-discrimination law. ’68: Martin Luther King assassinated. ’69: Republican Nixon. Neil Armstrong on the Moon. ’73: Vietnam ceasefire. ’74: Watergate scandal, Nixon resigns. ’76: Carter. ’79: US embassy in Tehran hostage crisis. ’80: Reagan, Republican. Anti-communist. ’86: Bombing Libyan cities. ’88: Bush Sr. ’89: Panama invasion, Noriega arrested for drug-trafficking. ’91: Iraq War involvement. ’92: Clinton, democratic. ’92: Nafta. ’99: Nato bombardment Yugoslavia in response to Serb violence against ethnic Albanians in Kosovo. 2000: Bush Jr. ’01: 9/11, excuse for War on Terror. Invasions of Afghanistan and Iraq. Against Taliban. ’02: Department of Homeland Security. ’05: Hurricane Katrina. ’08: Democratic Obama, 1st black president. ’09: 1st Tea Party rally = protest against bailing out banks and introduce healthcare reform. ’11: Presumed Al-Qaeda leader Osama Bin Laden killed. ’13: Snowden flees to Russia after leaking info on extensive internet and telephone surveillance by US. ’14: Diplomatic relations with Cuba. ’16: Trump. ’17: Trump restricts visas for Muslim-majority countries. Recognises Jerusalem as capital of Israel & sovereignty over Golan Heights. ’18: Trump meets Kim Jong-un (North Korea). New Trade deal with Canada & Mexico. ’19: Withdrawing troops from northern Syria. Turkey occupy Kurdish-run parts, create buffer zone. Trump impeached by House of Representatives on charges of abuse of power and obstruction of Congress. ’20: Covid-19 pandemic. Nationwide protests about killing of African-American George Floyd. ’21: Biden. ’25: Trump again.
Budget Bites
Mama Said
- Main Supermarket Chains (Washington): Trader Joe’s, Safeway, Wholefoods, Metropolitan Market, Target, Albertsons, Walmart.
- Local Dishes (national): Hamburger, Hot Dogs, Buffalo Wings, BBQ Ribs, Roasted Turkey, Mac & Cheese, Meat Loaf, Sweet Potato Casserole, Fried Okra, Cobb Salad (avocado, chicken, hardboiled egg), Tex-Mex, Crab Cake, Corndogs, Clam Chowder, Gumbo, Jambalaya, Crayfish, General Tso Chicken, Chicago-Style Pizza, Chicken & Waffles, Biscuits and Gravy, Mission Burrito, Cheesesteak, Cornbread, Peanutbutter & Jelly Sandwich, Club Sandwich, Frybread, Po Boy (sandwich), Reuben Sandwich, Sloppy Joe, American Pancakes, Breakfast Burrito, Monterey Jack Cheese, Chocolate Chip Cookies, Chocolate Brownies, Fudge, Jell-O, S’mores, Donuts, Hushpuppies.
- The Veg Situation: Going veg is not so complicated in the United States, as vegetarianism and veganism is widely accepted. Most supermarkets contain veg products, be it very processed at times. Veg restaurants can be found here: https://www.happycow.net/north_america/usa/
- National Drink: Coca Cola.
Mama Said
- Safety: Overall, the United States is a safe country. Yet, all cities deal with a major drug addiction and homelessness problem, which can bring safety in jeopardy. Also, with guns legal to all, gun violence is always around the corner. Don’t trespass, interact with caution and like everywhere else in the world, go around using common sense.
- Tap Water: is safe to drink.
- The best credit/debit card for traveling is Wise, as they use the live conversion rates with minimal exchange fees. Wise also has the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. That said, I do find their customer service rather questionable. Revolut is comparable, but they have higher exchange fees in the weekend and less wallet-options. Also, you can only wire money to Revolut in the currency you opened the account with, whereas Wise has IBAN’s from a wide variety of currencies, so you don’t have to pay a double exchange fee. Both Revolut and Wise have the option to open an American Dollar wallet. Most American ATMs charge a fee for cash outs, but card payments are accepted everywhere.
- Simcard: This can be of considerate cost in the United States. However, lately the market is opening up with more budget players entering the scene. During my 5-month visit, I order a Mint Mobile simcard, which has great coverage and offers low cost packages with particularly economical deals to new members. Other budget operators are Boost Mobile, Lyca, Mobile X, Ultra Mobile, Visible, Cricket, Metro and Tracfone. The main providers are AT&T, T-Mobile and Verizon.
Transport
Next?
- Walking: The bigger American cities are quite spread out and designed for car traffic. Walking is generally a feasible option per neighbourhood, but might be too much of an effort on a city-wide level.
- Cycling: The United States does not have a cycling culture whatsoever. However, recently many cities are making an effort to promote this green way of transport by building cycle lanes and creating shared-bike-programs.
- Public Transport: Within the bigger cities, public transport is usually widely available. Expect an extensive bus network, potentially including a metro, tram or light rail network. On the coast, ferries are generally included in the public transit system. Day passes offer affordable deals within the city limits. To get from city to city, public transportation options are limited to bus lines and certain train connections. Smaller towns and villages are harder to reach.
- Taxi / Uber: The US has taxi apps such as Uber, Lyft and Easy Taxi.
- Train: The train network in the United States is limited. Trajectories are operated by Amtrak, BNSF Railway, Canadian National Railway, Canadian Pacific Kansas City, CSX Transportation, Norfolk Southern Railway and Union Pacific Railroad. The cities on the east- and west-coast are well-connected, but land inwards only certain routes are available. Find an overview on this map.
- Car Rental: This is not a cheap option in the US. However, the best deals can generally be found when the car is picked up from an airport or… from Las Vegas.
- Hitchhiking: is uncommon in the US, but certainly possible. Americans tend to be sceptical and scared in this regards, so it’s definitely not always easy to be picked up, yet I managed to get a ride on all the occasions when I tried to do so. Be aware that on some highway entries and around correctional facilities there are signs stating that hitchhiking is prohibited. More info on hitchhiking in the USA can be found on Hitchwiki.
Next?
In order to support the travelers’ community, I spend many hours per week to adequately document all information and advices for prospective visitors, accompanied by a (hopefully) entertaining insight into my personal observations and experiences. This service is and will remain free. However, if you voluntarily want to make a contribution and support my travels and thus the creation of new stories and information supply, here is the button you’re looking for:
Related:
- German Gems: Aachen, Frankfurt, Heidelberg, Dusseldorf, Cologne, Mulheim, Osnabruck, Baden-Baden... and of course Freiburg!
- The world's biggest metal festival: Wacken Open Air
- The perfect daytrip from Aachen: Maastricht & Southern Limburg gems
- More of the Netherlands: Den Bosch, Haarlem & Nijmegen... and 10 typical Dutch celebrations you shouldn't miss out on
- More metal in Holland: Into The Grave Festival in Leeuwarden
- Discover more Belgium: Antwerp & the most kick-ass Flanders itinerary!
- Europe's best skiing & hiking: Get your ass over to jaw-dropping Switzerland!
- Visit Europe's mini-countries: Gibraltar, Liechtenstein, Luxemburg, Kosovo & Wales!
- Relive history in Austria's majestic capital Vienna
- Unravel the mysteries of Serbia
- More European city-tripping: Copenhagen [Denmark], Vilnius [Lithuania], Frankfurt am Main [Germany] or Glasgow [Scotland]
- Where city and nature meet: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Budget Bucket List hitchhike trip to... Kosovo!
- The prettiest historical town in Romania: Sighisoara!
- The 3 golden rules to travel Sofia on a budget! & Why you shouldn’t miss out on Plovdiv! [Bulgaria]
- Discover the splendours of Turkey: Istanbul on a Budget & Reasons to visit Edirne
- German Gems: Aachen, Frankfurt, Heidelberg, Dusseldorf, Cologne, Mulheim, Osnabruck, Baden-Baden... and of course Freiburg!
- The world's biggest metal festival: Wacken Open Air
- The perfect daytrip from Aachen: Maastricht & Southern Limburg gems
- More of the Netherlands: Den Bosch, Haarlem & Nijmegen... and 10 typical Dutch celebrations you shouldn't miss out on
- More metal in Holland: Into The Grave Festival in Leeuwarden
- Discover more Belgium: Antwerp & the most kick-ass Flanders itinerary!
- Europe's best skiing & hiking: Get your ass over to jaw-dropping Switzerland!
- Visit Europe's mini-countries: Gibraltar, Liechtenstein, Luxemburg, Kosovo & Wales!
- Relive history in Austria's majestic capital Vienna
- Unravel the mysteries of Serbia
- More European city-tripping: Copenhagen [Denmark], Vilnius [Lithuania], Frankfurt am Main [Germany] or Glasgow [Scotland]
- Where city and nature meet: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Budget Bucket List hitchhike trip to... Kosovo!
- The prettiest historical town in Romania: Sighisoara!
- The 3 golden rules to travel Sofia on a budget! & Why you shouldn’t miss out on Plovdiv! [Bulgaria]
- Discover the splendours of Turkey: Istanbul on a Budget & Reasons to visit Edirne