Cross-Canada Cycle Journey 7:
Ontario Part-2
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Because of the sheer size of the province of Ontario, this blog is split up in two parts.
Click here for Ontario Part-1: Kenora towards Thunder Bay via southern detour & Lake Superior Section.
Let’s continue with Part-2:
Day 50: Sault Ste. Marie- Sowerby
Distance: 94.7km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with narrow shoulder. At times no shoulder at all.
Views: City, forests, lakes, provincial park.
Water Situation: Lots of services and houses along the way to obtain water from.
Food Situation: All services in the big city Sault Ste. Marie. There are also services all along the way today, at least every 20km. Hubs are Bruce Mines (shops, gas stations, restaurants) and Thessalon.
(Sun, short rain bursts, headwind)
After the strenuous Lake-Superior-lap I took two nights in Sault Ste. Marie, to physically recover and allow myself some time out of the mozzie-cloud. We stayed in a motel, which is an interesting phenomenon for me as a European. Besides the dodgy backstreet places where businessmen go cheat on their wives, Europe doesn’t really have motels in the setup or appearance of those in Canada or the US. I just recognize them as murder-crime-scenes in horror movies and from that The Doors album cover. I always thought they were North America’s answer to backpacker hostels, cheap rundown options for budget travellers (or people on the run). But no, they’re rather expensive and they probably outnumber actual hotels in Canada. I know, they’re probably the most mundane, normal sight to you… but just as the eating booths in traditional diners (Pulp Fiction alert!), it is absolutely thrilling for me to discover this is not just an invention of Hollywood.
Back to cycling: Even though I was leaving big-city-terrain, it was a rather interesting day. It wouldn’t have been if I had stuck to the lame Trans-Canada Highway, but it definitely was because I opted for side-roads wherever I could. Not in the least because this led me through Mennonites territory, the closest one can get to a time portal in the modern day and age. This highly traditional culture lives side by side with the Ketegaunseebee (Garden River) First Nation belonging to the Ojibwe Anishinaabe people. I have passed through a lot of First Nation land in Ontario and the main observation is that they still live in complete harmony with their natural surroundings. Which means: they treasure it and keep it in their original state, letting it live to let them live. Quite the difference with the highly developed civilized stretches of the newer inhabitants. Cycling-wise, First Nation land is highly preferable.
Click here for Ontario Part-1: Kenora towards Thunder Bay via southern detour & Lake Superior Section.
Let’s continue with Part-2:
Day 50: Sault Ste. Marie- Sowerby
Distance: 94.7km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with narrow shoulder. At times no shoulder at all.
Views: City, forests, lakes, provincial park.
Water Situation: Lots of services and houses along the way to obtain water from.
Food Situation: All services in the big city Sault Ste. Marie. There are also services all along the way today, at least every 20km. Hubs are Bruce Mines (shops, gas stations, restaurants) and Thessalon.
(Sun, short rain bursts, headwind)
After the strenuous Lake-Superior-lap I took two nights in Sault Ste. Marie, to physically recover and allow myself some time out of the mozzie-cloud. We stayed in a motel, which is an interesting phenomenon for me as a European. Besides the dodgy backstreet places where businessmen go cheat on their wives, Europe doesn’t really have motels in the setup or appearance of those in Canada or the US. I just recognize them as murder-crime-scenes in horror movies and from that The Doors album cover. I always thought they were North America’s answer to backpacker hostels, cheap rundown options for budget travellers (or people on the run). But no, they’re rather expensive and they probably outnumber actual hotels in Canada. I know, they’re probably the most mundane, normal sight to you… but just as the eating booths in traditional diners (Pulp Fiction alert!), it is absolutely thrilling for me to discover this is not just an invention of Hollywood.
Back to cycling: Even though I was leaving big-city-terrain, it was a rather interesting day. It wouldn’t have been if I had stuck to the lame Trans-Canada Highway, but it definitely was because I opted for side-roads wherever I could. Not in the least because this led me through Mennonites territory, the closest one can get to a time portal in the modern day and age. This highly traditional culture lives side by side with the Ketegaunseebee (Garden River) First Nation belonging to the Ojibwe Anishinaabe people. I have passed through a lot of First Nation land in Ontario and the main observation is that they still live in complete harmony with their natural surroundings. Which means: they treasure it and keep it in their original state, letting it live to let them live. Quite the difference with the highly developed civilized stretches of the newer inhabitants. Cycling-wise, First Nation land is highly preferable.
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I passed the small villages of Bruce Mines and Thessalon, while aiming for Iron Bridge. However, at the height of Sowerby a menacing black cloud was on my heels. Looking at its sheer intensity I knew I had little time to loose before it would pour its contents all over me. I was on stretched out farmland with very little around, but I saw a farm in the distance with a giant shed sheltering all machinery. That’ll do. I pulled in, but figured the polite thing to do is first ask permission at the farm house. A tall, blonde woman opened the door. I glanced up and saw a flag flapping in the wind, half Canadian half Dutch. Well, what are the odds? Of course I was able to seek shelter, but why not on the porch with a cup of tea? Oh, and her son is a cyclist and an active member of the Warm Showers community, would I mind being her first cycle-guest? I only had 95km under my belt, but the universe was clearly making an effort to apologize for all that headwind it had bugged me with. Another wonderful connection.
Day 51: Sowerby – Whitefish Falls
Distance: 159.3km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with narrow shoulder. At times no shoulder at all. It gets better once you go right at Espanola.
Views: Forest, lakes, towns.
Water Situation: Lots of services and houses along the way to obtain water from. Shops and gas stations available along the entire way today.
Food Situation: Small shops all along the way, located at campsites and gas stations. Hubs with several services are Iron Bridge, Blind River, Algoma Mills, Spanish, Massey and Espanola. The latter is quite a big town with supermarkets, all kinds of shops and restaurants.
(Sun, heat, wind still)
My spontaneous host Michelle sent me off with a hearty breakfast and fresh cherries out of the garden. I needed a solid energy-reserve, as I was determined to make up for yesterday's short cycle day. You see, I had set my mind on including Toronto into the journey, as Canada’s largest city is basically on the way to nothing. Unless you just happened to be on the way to Buffalo, which seems rare. I’m not a huge city-person, but some places you just wanted to have seen at least once in your life. This includes the Niagara Falls, a short day trip from Toronto. On top of that, some buddies of mine play in a band, and they’d be hitting one of Toronto’s main stages next week, and I was determined to be part of that audience. This means that I was about to embark on a huge detour, compared to the direct way to Montreal over the Trans-Canada. I had heard horrible reviews about the poor cyclist-safety on this road though, so if anything, this idea sold the Toronto-route even more to me (even though I was unsure what to expect). I love this cycle journey, more days on the bike means more days of joy. Yet, it also meant that I had to take a ferry the day after tomorrow, in order to follow the more scenic itinerary across Manitoulin Island… 250km in just 1,5 day. Better get a move on!
Miraculously, there was no wind today, nor a demanding set of steep hills to set me back. Unlike elsewhere in Ontario, this was also a day with services all along the way, so I didn’t have to worry about over-carrying food or water. I could truly focus on speed and distance for a change! Before I knew it, I had reached Blind River, where I traced down a beach to consume my picnic lunch. I pushed onwards to a town listening to the strange name “Spanish”, apparently referring to the predominantly Spanish workforce to construct the nearby railway. Thirsty in this hot weather I walked into North Channel Pizza to fill my water bottle… as the owner turned out to be another proud Dutchie as well, not only a water refill, but also dinner was on him!
Day 51: Sowerby – Whitefish Falls
Distance: 159.3km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with narrow shoulder. At times no shoulder at all. It gets better once you go right at Espanola.
Views: Forest, lakes, towns.
Water Situation: Lots of services and houses along the way to obtain water from. Shops and gas stations available along the entire way today.
Food Situation: Small shops all along the way, located at campsites and gas stations. Hubs with several services are Iron Bridge, Blind River, Algoma Mills, Spanish, Massey and Espanola. The latter is quite a big town with supermarkets, all kinds of shops and restaurants.
(Sun, heat, wind still)
My spontaneous host Michelle sent me off with a hearty breakfast and fresh cherries out of the garden. I needed a solid energy-reserve, as I was determined to make up for yesterday's short cycle day. You see, I had set my mind on including Toronto into the journey, as Canada’s largest city is basically on the way to nothing. Unless you just happened to be on the way to Buffalo, which seems rare. I’m not a huge city-person, but some places you just wanted to have seen at least once in your life. This includes the Niagara Falls, a short day trip from Toronto. On top of that, some buddies of mine play in a band, and they’d be hitting one of Toronto’s main stages next week, and I was determined to be part of that audience. This means that I was about to embark on a huge detour, compared to the direct way to Montreal over the Trans-Canada. I had heard horrible reviews about the poor cyclist-safety on this road though, so if anything, this idea sold the Toronto-route even more to me (even though I was unsure what to expect). I love this cycle journey, more days on the bike means more days of joy. Yet, it also meant that I had to take a ferry the day after tomorrow, in order to follow the more scenic itinerary across Manitoulin Island… 250km in just 1,5 day. Better get a move on!
Miraculously, there was no wind today, nor a demanding set of steep hills to set me back. Unlike elsewhere in Ontario, this was also a day with services all along the way, so I didn’t have to worry about over-carrying food or water. I could truly focus on speed and distance for a change! Before I knew it, I had reached Blind River, where I traced down a beach to consume my picnic lunch. I pushed onwards to a town listening to the strange name “Spanish”, apparently referring to the predominantly Spanish workforce to construct the nearby railway. Thirsty in this hot weather I walked into North Channel Pizza to fill my water bottle… as the owner turned out to be another proud Dutchie as well, not only a water refill, but also dinner was on him!
I was glad that at the town of Massey I could finally pull off the Trans-Canada Highway. Cyclists (rightfully) complain about Manitoba, with their notorious gravel shoulder and narrow roads… but Ontario isn’t doing much better! Not only is the shoulder often non-existent, or so narrow it would only fit the anorexic’s among us, the narrow 2-lane-structure and sheer amount of traffic coming from both sides simply don’t provide the space for vehicles to safely take over. I really feel like I live to tell the story, that was gnarly at times!
At sunset I reached the sizable town of Espanola, where I brushed my teeth and subjected myself to the good ol’ army shower before continuing. I removed my contacts and put on my glasses, not to see better: I had figured out a technique to keep the unholy amount of insects out of my eyes while cycling in the dark with a headlamp on. It allowed me to continue until midnight, when I pulled into the town of White Fish. As is common in Ontario (and only in Ontario), every single park or picnic area was scattered with “No Camping” signs… so in the end I just plunged my tent down next to the fire department. Fingers crossed they’re sympathetic. It would be for a couple of hours only anyway, as to my great displeasure I have to leave unreasonably early to still make it to the ferry in time. I could have used a bit more recovery time after pumping out 160km, but alas, I created my own reality.
Day 52: Whitefish Falls – Tobermory
Distance: 100.3km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with pretty wide shoulder the whole way through, it even has “cycle path” markings.
Views: Forests, lakes, small towns, natural scenery.
Water Situation: Lots of services and houses along the way to obtain water from. Shops and gas stations available along the entire way today as well.
Food Situation: Small shops all along the way, located at campsites, gas stations or “trading posts”. Every 20-30km there's at least some small place to buy something. The bigger hubs are Little River and South Baymouth. Tobermory has all services too.
(Sun, heat, headwind)
I woke up completely sticky. Ontario’s unbearable humidity had me lying on top of my sleeping bag the whole night long, pouring sweat. My whole body was so damp, I could hardly get my pants on. I honestly prefer freezing and shivering over this misery, I’m not cut out for this climate. Shortly I realised I had made some good and some bad decisions by turning right into Manitoulin Island. The loud and clear upside was a break from the dreadful Trans-Canada Highway, which isn’t only unattractive, but downright dangerous for a cyclist. Instead, the natural glory of this breathtaking island, patched with Indian territory, was stretching out in front of me. A downside was that I now suddenly had to catch a ferry, which only has three departures a day. As I had hosts waiting on me in Tobermory, it seemed rude to grab the last one, which limited my time for the remaining 95km to half a day. Not an easy task at hand, with the sheer amount of hills this island is enriched with and (needless to say) a vigorous headwind. I’m a fulltime traveler, I’m not used to deal with time constraints or deadlines, I’m a flow-goer. The incredible stress and constant watch-watching properly ruined the experience.
At sunset I reached the sizable town of Espanola, where I brushed my teeth and subjected myself to the good ol’ army shower before continuing. I removed my contacts and put on my glasses, not to see better: I had figured out a technique to keep the unholy amount of insects out of my eyes while cycling in the dark with a headlamp on. It allowed me to continue until midnight, when I pulled into the town of White Fish. As is common in Ontario (and only in Ontario), every single park or picnic area was scattered with “No Camping” signs… so in the end I just plunged my tent down next to the fire department. Fingers crossed they’re sympathetic. It would be for a couple of hours only anyway, as to my great displeasure I have to leave unreasonably early to still make it to the ferry in time. I could have used a bit more recovery time after pumping out 160km, but alas, I created my own reality.
Day 52: Whitefish Falls – Tobermory
Distance: 100.3km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with pretty wide shoulder the whole way through, it even has “cycle path” markings.
Views: Forests, lakes, small towns, natural scenery.
Water Situation: Lots of services and houses along the way to obtain water from. Shops and gas stations available along the entire way today as well.
Food Situation: Small shops all along the way, located at campsites, gas stations or “trading posts”. Every 20-30km there's at least some small place to buy something. The bigger hubs are Little River and South Baymouth. Tobermory has all services too.
(Sun, heat, headwind)
I woke up completely sticky. Ontario’s unbearable humidity had me lying on top of my sleeping bag the whole night long, pouring sweat. My whole body was so damp, I could hardly get my pants on. I honestly prefer freezing and shivering over this misery, I’m not cut out for this climate. Shortly I realised I had made some good and some bad decisions by turning right into Manitoulin Island. The loud and clear upside was a break from the dreadful Trans-Canada Highway, which isn’t only unattractive, but downright dangerous for a cyclist. Instead, the natural glory of this breathtaking island, patched with Indian territory, was stretching out in front of me. A downside was that I now suddenly had to catch a ferry, which only has three departures a day. As I had hosts waiting on me in Tobermory, it seemed rude to grab the last one, which limited my time for the remaining 95km to half a day. Not an easy task at hand, with the sheer amount of hills this island is enriched with and (needless to say) a vigorous headwind. I’m a fulltime traveler, I’m not used to deal with time constraints or deadlines, I’m a flow-goer. The incredible stress and constant watch-watching properly ruined the experience.
Even though it was easy to see how gorgeous this island is, I must confess that cycling might not be the best way to see it, as you stick to the roads. This was a thought that had dominated my consciousness regularly recently: Even though I obviously developed a strong affection for bike-travel, I still prefer thru-hiking. For the simple reason that going off-road and exploring all the little paths and trails allows for a more unique and pure connection with the nature you’re here for in the first place. On a bicycle, you just see what the car-drivers see, but slower and more thorough. Even gravel-biking doesn’t grant access to all the narrow, slithering trails a hiker is blessed to explore. That said, you can cover more distance on a bicycle and therefore see more of a country in the same timeframe provided.
Somehow, I made it to the ferry leaving from South Baymouth. I had to work my ass off and was the last one boarding, but still. Luckily I had about two hours to regain my strength and take the highly needed bum-rest, while soaking in the views of Lake Huron. It moors in Tobermory, a bustling harbour town thriving on heavy tourism. Something that probably provides about 100% of the local employment, but triggers mixed emotions among the residents. At least, judging by the reports of my Warm Showers hosts: a retired cycling couple who recently discovered raw veganism, which apparently provided such an incredible boost in their energy that at the age of 70-something the lady also cycled across entire Canada. Admirable!
Day 53: Tobermory – Owen Sound
Distance: 113.7km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with pretty wide shoulder the whole way through. Alternative road has no shoulder, but also hardly any traffic.
Views: Forests, lakes, small towns, national park.
Water Situation: Lots of services and houses along the way to obtain water from. Shops in Tobermory, Lion’s Head (detour), Wiarton, Owen Sound and regularly at campsites and gas stations in between the towns.
Food Situation: Tobermory has a supermarket and restaurants. Small shops all along the way at campsites and gas stations. If you decide to go off the highway for a more scenic detour: Lions Head has a supermarket and eateries. Then nothing until Wiarton. Owen Sound has all services.
(Sun, heat, headwind)
In theory, today should be a very scenic cycle day, as I was passing through Bruce Peninsula National Park. The disappointing element is that there are no roads going through it, besides the congested and loud Highway 6. It’s impossible to experience this park on wheels, only by hiking its trails. The first option to get off the main road is about 40km in, with my (hardcore cyclist) host’s recommendation to take the Caudle Side Road which shortly reaches the Georgian Bay and leads to Lion’s Head. This road has no shoulder, but then again, there is hardly any traffic either, and considering the much better scenery it’s highly preferable. Worth the extra 10k! Lion’s Head feels cozy and authentic, in a country where I had been missing this ambience in the cities. There’s a lovely bay where, like me, you’ll easily find yourself chilling a tad too hard, dangerously leading you straight into holiday-mode with still quite a distance on your hands.
I cycled onwards on country road 9, away from that horrid highway, and also from Wiarton I immediately deviated onto a more obscure side road where I seemed to be the only soul alive. Full-on Prairies-vibes on this section! As heavy rainfall was upon me and I still had quite some time to kill until the Toronto-concert, I decided to hang around in Owen Sound an extra day. My Couchsurfing host had plenty of options for entertainment, including a quad, snowmobile, motorcycle and speedboat. I got to have fun on the two latter, and watched Spain win the World Cup while eating gourmet food and sipping my new favorite Canadian drink (besides red wine of course): a clamato. La vida buena!
Somehow, I made it to the ferry leaving from South Baymouth. I had to work my ass off and was the last one boarding, but still. Luckily I had about two hours to regain my strength and take the highly needed bum-rest, while soaking in the views of Lake Huron. It moors in Tobermory, a bustling harbour town thriving on heavy tourism. Something that probably provides about 100% of the local employment, but triggers mixed emotions among the residents. At least, judging by the reports of my Warm Showers hosts: a retired cycling couple who recently discovered raw veganism, which apparently provided such an incredible boost in their energy that at the age of 70-something the lady also cycled across entire Canada. Admirable!
Day 53: Tobermory – Owen Sound
Distance: 113.7km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with pretty wide shoulder the whole way through. Alternative road has no shoulder, but also hardly any traffic.
Views: Forests, lakes, small towns, national park.
Water Situation: Lots of services and houses along the way to obtain water from. Shops in Tobermory, Lion’s Head (detour), Wiarton, Owen Sound and regularly at campsites and gas stations in between the towns.
Food Situation: Tobermory has a supermarket and restaurants. Small shops all along the way at campsites and gas stations. If you decide to go off the highway for a more scenic detour: Lions Head has a supermarket and eateries. Then nothing until Wiarton. Owen Sound has all services.
(Sun, heat, headwind)
In theory, today should be a very scenic cycle day, as I was passing through Bruce Peninsula National Park. The disappointing element is that there are no roads going through it, besides the congested and loud Highway 6. It’s impossible to experience this park on wheels, only by hiking its trails. The first option to get off the main road is about 40km in, with my (hardcore cyclist) host’s recommendation to take the Caudle Side Road which shortly reaches the Georgian Bay and leads to Lion’s Head. This road has no shoulder, but then again, there is hardly any traffic either, and considering the much better scenery it’s highly preferable. Worth the extra 10k! Lion’s Head feels cozy and authentic, in a country where I had been missing this ambience in the cities. There’s a lovely bay where, like me, you’ll easily find yourself chilling a tad too hard, dangerously leading you straight into holiday-mode with still quite a distance on your hands.
I cycled onwards on country road 9, away from that horrid highway, and also from Wiarton I immediately deviated onto a more obscure side road where I seemed to be the only soul alive. Full-on Prairies-vibes on this section! As heavy rainfall was upon me and I still had quite some time to kill until the Toronto-concert, I decided to hang around in Owen Sound an extra day. My Couchsurfing host had plenty of options for entertainment, including a quad, snowmobile, motorcycle and speedboat. I got to have fun on the two latter, and watched Spain win the World Cup while eating gourmet food and sipping my new favorite Canadian drink (besides red wine of course): a clamato. La vida buena!
Day 54: Owen Sound - Mono
Distance: 115km
GPS: All Trails (incomplete recording)
Terrain: Asphalt with absolutely no shoulder. It's terrible.
Views: Forests, lakes, small towns, natural scenery.
Water Situation: Lots of services and houses along the way to obtain water from. Shops along the way.
Food Situation: Owen Sound has all services. Then along the way you'll find shops, gas stations and services quite regularly. Hubs are Chatsworth, Markdale, Flesherton and Shelburne.
(Cloudy, head- and side-wind, rain)
I was slowly moving into the urbanized area hoovering around Toronto… but not yet, not yet! One more day to go in the well-nigh countryside area further north. There were plenty of little villages and services to cater to your every need, but it doesn’t quite feel like a next-level metropolitan city yet. I took some alternative rural roads to escape the heavier traffic, which definitely enhanced that feeling. That said, whatever road you take, I found most of ‘em in this area rather dangerous… the white line, which should in theory mark off the shoulder, is in fact immediately the end of the road. Sorry Ontario, but a few centimetres won’t cut it, I’m not that skinny! With all the trucks heading towards the city, this creates an almost life-threatening situation. Not to mention the ear-deafening sound cranking up the anxiety. A good playlist is the cure. By all means, I cannot understand my fellow cyclists who drive around without them. In my case, the second I get on the seat to the very moment I have reached my destination, absolute bangers are blasting in my ears, providing me with both rhythm and motivation.
After the town of Holland in the Prairies, which was thriving on Dutch symbolism but was in fact English, I now passed Holland Center. The local gas station owner who treated me on a free cup of coffee was too busy to explain me why, but a quick online search confirms that also this one dates back to Bri’ish roots: The township was in fact named after Lord Holland, the Duchy of Lancaster. The locals might not actually know that themselves, I realized when looking at the local supermarkets with shelf after shelf after shelf of Dutch goodies and groceries.
I might have escaped one day of rain by hanging out in Owen Sound, but hey: there was still a second day of rain waiting around the corner. Secretly I actually thoroughly enjoyed it, as the unbearable heat and humidity has me crusted in salty sweat every day on the ride. Could do with a refreshing rinse-off! Just don’t tell the rain that I said that, I don’t want him coming back when he’s least welcome.
Distance: 115km
GPS: All Trails (incomplete recording)
Terrain: Asphalt with absolutely no shoulder. It's terrible.
Views: Forests, lakes, small towns, natural scenery.
Water Situation: Lots of services and houses along the way to obtain water from. Shops along the way.
Food Situation: Owen Sound has all services. Then along the way you'll find shops, gas stations and services quite regularly. Hubs are Chatsworth, Markdale, Flesherton and Shelburne.
(Cloudy, head- and side-wind, rain)
I was slowly moving into the urbanized area hoovering around Toronto… but not yet, not yet! One more day to go in the well-nigh countryside area further north. There were plenty of little villages and services to cater to your every need, but it doesn’t quite feel like a next-level metropolitan city yet. I took some alternative rural roads to escape the heavier traffic, which definitely enhanced that feeling. That said, whatever road you take, I found most of ‘em in this area rather dangerous… the white line, which should in theory mark off the shoulder, is in fact immediately the end of the road. Sorry Ontario, but a few centimetres won’t cut it, I’m not that skinny! With all the trucks heading towards the city, this creates an almost life-threatening situation. Not to mention the ear-deafening sound cranking up the anxiety. A good playlist is the cure. By all means, I cannot understand my fellow cyclists who drive around without them. In my case, the second I get on the seat to the very moment I have reached my destination, absolute bangers are blasting in my ears, providing me with both rhythm and motivation.
After the town of Holland in the Prairies, which was thriving on Dutch symbolism but was in fact English, I now passed Holland Center. The local gas station owner who treated me on a free cup of coffee was too busy to explain me why, but a quick online search confirms that also this one dates back to Bri’ish roots: The township was in fact named after Lord Holland, the Duchy of Lancaster. The locals might not actually know that themselves, I realized when looking at the local supermarkets with shelf after shelf after shelf of Dutch goodies and groceries.
I might have escaped one day of rain by hanging out in Owen Sound, but hey: there was still a second day of rain waiting around the corner. Secretly I actually thoroughly enjoyed it, as the unbearable heat and humidity has me crusted in salty sweat every day on the ride. Could do with a refreshing rinse-off! Just don’t tell the rain that I said that, I don’t want him coming back when he’s least welcome.
Day 55: Mono – Toronto
Distance: 102.3km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with absolutely no shoulder. Backroads available.
Views: Hills, small towns, countryside, city.
Water Situation: Lots of services and houses along the way to obtain water from. Shops along the way.
Food Situation: Orangeville (but I didn't go through), Caledon East (detour), and from there regular services all the way to Toronto.
(Cloudy, head- and side-wind, rain)
I woke up to an actual weather alarm. A thunderstorm warning. Great, now I had an excuse to hang out a little longer with my excellent Warm Showers hosts in Mono, right until midday when the skies were supposed to clear up a bit. The connection between me and these people was just incredible, they felt like family… but then the kind of relatives you actually coexist with in harmony, while matching one another on an intellectual and most definitely also at a venturous level. No matter how much time I’d be given in Mono, it would always feel way too short.
The alarm didn’t ring in vain. I had to take several detours today, as many roads were inaccessible due to flooding. Some detours were taken purposefully, as to dodge the uninspiring and hazardous highways. Safer doesn’t necessarily mean easier though: I got some hills served for lunch with a steepness instantly turning my stomach upside down. Good lord, Ontario’s replacing my legs with a set of cables, so it seems.
The last 60km of the day is Toronto. All of it! And you’re only cycling a tiny section of the city, from the northern Brampton area towards downtown. As a European, it’s just hard for me to fathom the sheer sizes of northern American cities. Just as a comparison: Berlin is only 13% the size of the Toronto metropolitan area, entire London 22%, Rome 18%… outside of Europe: Moscow is only 35% of Toronto, Istanbul 29%, Tokyo 31% and entire Dubai 58%. And 60km means a whoooooole lot of annoying traffic lights. Whenever you can, try to get your ass on some of the riverside cycle- and walking trails slithering towards Lake Ontario, as that’s the best way to get away from the downtown traffic (minus the pedestrians) and ditch the tangly traffic light situation. This route, however, couldn’t guarantee sock-dryness on my day of arrival, as the entire river had flooded out of its beds and I had to cycle right through it. A small, soggy price to pay!
Distance: 102.3km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with absolutely no shoulder. Backroads available.
Views: Hills, small towns, countryside, city.
Water Situation: Lots of services and houses along the way to obtain water from. Shops along the way.
Food Situation: Orangeville (but I didn't go through), Caledon East (detour), and from there regular services all the way to Toronto.
(Cloudy, head- and side-wind, rain)
I woke up to an actual weather alarm. A thunderstorm warning. Great, now I had an excuse to hang out a little longer with my excellent Warm Showers hosts in Mono, right until midday when the skies were supposed to clear up a bit. The connection between me and these people was just incredible, they felt like family… but then the kind of relatives you actually coexist with in harmony, while matching one another on an intellectual and most definitely also at a venturous level. No matter how much time I’d be given in Mono, it would always feel way too short.
The alarm didn’t ring in vain. I had to take several detours today, as many roads were inaccessible due to flooding. Some detours were taken purposefully, as to dodge the uninspiring and hazardous highways. Safer doesn’t necessarily mean easier though: I got some hills served for lunch with a steepness instantly turning my stomach upside down. Good lord, Ontario’s replacing my legs with a set of cables, so it seems.
The last 60km of the day is Toronto. All of it! And you’re only cycling a tiny section of the city, from the northern Brampton area towards downtown. As a European, it’s just hard for me to fathom the sheer sizes of northern American cities. Just as a comparison: Berlin is only 13% the size of the Toronto metropolitan area, entire London 22%, Rome 18%… outside of Europe: Moscow is only 35% of Toronto, Istanbul 29%, Tokyo 31% and entire Dubai 58%. And 60km means a whoooooole lot of annoying traffic lights. Whenever you can, try to get your ass on some of the riverside cycle- and walking trails slithering towards Lake Ontario, as that’s the best way to get away from the downtown traffic (minus the pedestrians) and ditch the tangly traffic light situation. This route, however, couldn’t guarantee sock-dryness on my day of arrival, as the entire river had flooded out of its beds and I had to cycle right through it. A small, soggy price to pay!
Day 56: Toronto – Cobourg
Distance: 138km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Bicycle lanes. Waterfront Bicycle Trail alongside Lake Ontario.
Views: City, lakeside, parks.
Water Situation: Lots of services and houses along the way to obtain water from. Shops along the way.
Food Situation: Available all the way through. Sometimes you have to deviate from the Waterfront Trail to get into the towns.
(Sunny, mild tailwind)
I couldn’t believe I was actually there: Toronto. Some cities are so evident and present in your consciousness - cradles of music, movies and mass media - that you never really stop to realize it’s an actual place on earth. This happened to me a lot in the United States, but it’s most definitely also the case for Toronto. A city on the way to nothing. Ottawa, Montreal, Winnipeg, Calgary… all cities scattered out on the Trans-Canada, so you’ll get the chance to visit sooner or later, yet for Toronto you must specifically go out of your way to get there. Which takes about a week on a bicycle. In hindsight I can confirm: worth it, absolutely worth it. This frisky city seems to have got it all: Multiculturally patched neighbourhoods, contemporaneous skylines, brisk lakeside promenades, an elevating art and cultural scene and fine dining and fresh street food offers alike to cater to a varied kind of culinary cravings. Man, it’s even got the world famous Niagara Falls right around the corner! Of course, I had to take a peek, together with my American rock ‘n roll friends from Halestorm, who were the main reason of my elaborate detour, and who happened to have their day off right before their performance at the Ontario Place Budweiser Stage.
Distance: 138km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Bicycle lanes. Waterfront Bicycle Trail alongside Lake Ontario.
Views: City, lakeside, parks.
Water Situation: Lots of services and houses along the way to obtain water from. Shops along the way.
Food Situation: Available all the way through. Sometimes you have to deviate from the Waterfront Trail to get into the towns.
(Sunny, mild tailwind)
I couldn’t believe I was actually there: Toronto. Some cities are so evident and present in your consciousness - cradles of music, movies and mass media - that you never really stop to realize it’s an actual place on earth. This happened to me a lot in the United States, but it’s most definitely also the case for Toronto. A city on the way to nothing. Ottawa, Montreal, Winnipeg, Calgary… all cities scattered out on the Trans-Canada, so you’ll get the chance to visit sooner or later, yet for Toronto you must specifically go out of your way to get there. Which takes about a week on a bicycle. In hindsight I can confirm: worth it, absolutely worth it. This frisky city seems to have got it all: Multiculturally patched neighbourhoods, contemporaneous skylines, brisk lakeside promenades, an elevating art and cultural scene and fine dining and fresh street food offers alike to cater to a varied kind of culinary cravings. Man, it’s even got the world famous Niagara Falls right around the corner! Of course, I had to take a peek, together with my American rock ‘n roll friends from Halestorm, who were the main reason of my elaborate detour, and who happened to have their day off right before their performance at the Ontario Place Budweiser Stage.
Will travel for music! That said, it might not have been the sharpest idea to hit the road right the next morning with the hangover of the century. I honestly felt like I was about to die. I had to look at myself in the mirror and strictly dictate my mantra of the day: If I can go hard on the wine in the evening, I can go hard on the bike in the morning. You made your own bed, no do all but sleep on it… time to give gas. Previously it took me half a day to drive into Toronto from the northern end, and it might’ve taken me even longer to leave east. Even though my brain was entirely fried, I made an effort to zigzag between some further-out sights that were beyond walking distance on my break days, including the Leslieville Dollhouse just before this odd landmark disappeared from the Toronto cityscape forever. Once the husband of the previous owner, the eccentric Shirly Sumaiser, passed away, she distracted herself from her grief by turning the house into an outdoor museum by attaching a hysterical collection of stuffed animals, dolls, toys, plaques and signs wherever an empty spot could be traced down, adjusting it for every holiday and celebration. Nowadays, her old age unfortunately prevents her to continue her passion.
Otherwise, I wasn’t looking forward to cycling out of a big city. I pretty much figured the entire stretch from Toronto until Montreal would be horrendous, connecting two giant metropolitan areas… but I couldn’t be further from the truth. Little do people know, me included, that these two cities are in fact connected by one long cycle path called the Waterfront Trail. Without being aware of it, I apparently cycled already a big chunk of it from Sault Ste. Marie to Manitoulin Island and onwards to Owen Sound, from where it bends right alongside the coast of Lake Huron, Lake Erie and eventually Lake Ontario (in that last part I cut straight down to Toronto). It’s downright magnificent. We’re talking actual cycle paths, separated from the road… in Canada! A complete revelation! This is honestly the most cycle-friendly stretch since I kicked off in Vancouver Island, and that for a series of days. Together with some gentle tailwind, a cold comfort in this excruciating day of alcoholic recovery.
At 138km and around midnight I halted at someone’s backyard in Cobourg (with permission, of course). Considering the state I was in, a near Olympic achievement
Otherwise, I wasn’t looking forward to cycling out of a big city. I pretty much figured the entire stretch from Toronto until Montreal would be horrendous, connecting two giant metropolitan areas… but I couldn’t be further from the truth. Little do people know, me included, that these two cities are in fact connected by one long cycle path called the Waterfront Trail. Without being aware of it, I apparently cycled already a big chunk of it from Sault Ste. Marie to Manitoulin Island and onwards to Owen Sound, from where it bends right alongside the coast of Lake Huron, Lake Erie and eventually Lake Ontario (in that last part I cut straight down to Toronto). It’s downright magnificent. We’re talking actual cycle paths, separated from the road… in Canada! A complete revelation! This is honestly the most cycle-friendly stretch since I kicked off in Vancouver Island, and that for a series of days. Together with some gentle tailwind, a cold comfort in this excruciating day of alcoholic recovery.
At 138km and around midnight I halted at someone’s backyard in Cobourg (with permission, of course). Considering the state I was in, a near Olympic achievement
Day 57: Cobourg – Kingston
Distance: 171.6km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Bicycle lanes. Waterfront Bicycle Trail alongside Lake Ontario.
Views: Villages, countryside, lakes, forests.
Water Situation: Lots of services and houses along the way to obtain water from. Shops along the way.
Food Situation: All the way through: in every little village you'll find bakeries, supermarkets and eateries. You’ll pass Cobourg, Colborne, Brighton, Wellington, Bloomfield, Picton, Bath and Kingston. There are also smaller shops and services in between.
(Sunny, tailwind)
So my past-self had this wonderful idea to crank up the distances a little bit, so I could catch up with my cycle buddy in Montreal again. To my great dismay, this meant that my present-self has to do it. I even confirmed hosts in Kingston and Montreal to force myself to stick with it… We’re talking 645km in 4 days, absolute ludacris. Add to this that the oh-so-pleasant-cycle-paths are however swirling up and down and left and right, so you won’t be able to race forward in one straight line and gain high speed. This luckily also means that you can drive safely, pass through sublime sceneries away from heavy car traffic and enjoy the lakeside tranquillity. Especially today, when following the detour over the 62 and 33, rolling straight through the Ontario Wine Route. Oh man, I wish I had time to spend here, I’m the biggest wino I personally know! You catch me right on the day when I have to haul ass for 172k to reach Kingston. I stayed strong for an hour or 2, passing at least 50 wineries along the way, but then I couldn’t take it anymore. My arms started operating as an independent entity and steered me straight into a vineyard. Okay then, a quicky: a swift little tasting for motivation!
Apparently, yet another short ferry ride was included into my itinerary today. I hadn’t zoomed in enough on Google Maps, so I was as surprised as you are. Not to worry, the Glenora Ferry operates half-hourly and is entirely free of charge! I already knocked out 125km, but I still had another 50 to go to my host in Kingston, alongside forests, countryside lakes and provincial parks. So much beauty condensed in one single day!
Distance: 171.6km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Bicycle lanes. Waterfront Bicycle Trail alongside Lake Ontario.
Views: Villages, countryside, lakes, forests.
Water Situation: Lots of services and houses along the way to obtain water from. Shops along the way.
Food Situation: All the way through: in every little village you'll find bakeries, supermarkets and eateries. You’ll pass Cobourg, Colborne, Brighton, Wellington, Bloomfield, Picton, Bath and Kingston. There are also smaller shops and services in between.
(Sunny, tailwind)
So my past-self had this wonderful idea to crank up the distances a little bit, so I could catch up with my cycle buddy in Montreal again. To my great dismay, this meant that my present-self has to do it. I even confirmed hosts in Kingston and Montreal to force myself to stick with it… We’re talking 645km in 4 days, absolute ludacris. Add to this that the oh-so-pleasant-cycle-paths are however swirling up and down and left and right, so you won’t be able to race forward in one straight line and gain high speed. This luckily also means that you can drive safely, pass through sublime sceneries away from heavy car traffic and enjoy the lakeside tranquillity. Especially today, when following the detour over the 62 and 33, rolling straight through the Ontario Wine Route. Oh man, I wish I had time to spend here, I’m the biggest wino I personally know! You catch me right on the day when I have to haul ass for 172k to reach Kingston. I stayed strong for an hour or 2, passing at least 50 wineries along the way, but then I couldn’t take it anymore. My arms started operating as an independent entity and steered me straight into a vineyard. Okay then, a quicky: a swift little tasting for motivation!
Apparently, yet another short ferry ride was included into my itinerary today. I hadn’t zoomed in enough on Google Maps, so I was as surprised as you are. Not to worry, the Glenora Ferry operates half-hourly and is entirely free of charge! I already knocked out 125km, but I still had another 50 to go to my host in Kingston, alongside forests, countryside lakes and provincial parks. So much beauty condensed in one single day!
I’m glad I pushed through. Once I arrived at the address I had plugged into Google, I was greeted by a huge Christmas tree (in July) and a giant beer wearing a boa. A gentle introduction to what circus was awaiting me… yet, nothing could prepare me for what I was about to witness. I knocked on the door of the house and a proud and out, round queer man opened the door, dressed like a hippie. I entered what could have been a museum. A museum of everything. Pearls, Indian knickknacks, glitters, twinkles, candles, witches, flowers, figurines, musical instruments, neon, skeleton imagery, clocks, art, a sexual bear collection… Think of anything weird and extraordinary you can only trace down at thrift shops and flea markets, and it has a place in this ever-changing collection. Not a wall-space was empty, not a corner unfilled. Everything shines, glistens and sparkles. There’s a cinema in the basement, a gaybar next to the kitchen and a tropical neon jacuzzi paradise in the backyard… where oh, also the ashes of his mother and sister are scattered out, so it low-key doubles as a Dia del Muerte style Mexican cemetery. There’s honestly no comparison nor words to describes with goes on within this sprightly sanctuary, it’s absolutely out of this world. It’s nothing I’ve ever seen before, and man, did I see a lot. He should be charging admission. On the contrary though, host Kevin is as generous as one could be, treating me on food for today and the days to come, while filling my bags with a variety of cycling gadgets he randomly bought in his sequence of shopping sprees. This entire individual is an experience, an adventure, and thank goodness he crossed my path through Canada and through life.
Day 58: Kingston - Ingleside
Distance: 171km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Bicycle strip at most areas, but poor road conditions.
Views: Villages, countryside, lakes, forests.
Water Situation: Lots of services and houses along the way to obtain water from. Shops along the way.
Food Situation: All the way through: in every little village you'll find bakeries, supermarkets and eateries. Hubs are Kingston (big city), then Gananoque, Brockville, Prescott, Cardinal, Iroquois, Morrisville and Ingleside.
(Sunny, headwind)
I woke up in the most insane, amazing house I’ve ever been in. My conscience reminded me that I had once again 170+ km to cycle, this time with headwind, but my hedonistic brain tempted me to spend as much time with this frivolous individual as possible. So after a shared breakfast and an entire arsenal full of exuberant stories, I finally hit the road. Too late of course, if I would make my distance-goal I had to cycle until 2AM. Which I did, as when I set a goal for myself, I stick to it. I listen to no one but myself, and I ain’t got no mercy.
It helped that despite the headwind, the scenery delightfully distracted me from the heavy task at hand. The quality of the road surface drastically diminished and suddenly greeted me with open potholes and cracks (a gradual introduction to Quebec), but the backdrop just reached a new high in this already overwhelmingly appealing area between Toronto and Montreal. Today, the cycle paths guides you through the enchanting universe called Thousand Islands National Park, which sounds as enthralling as it looks. As this territory indeed belongs to Canada’s national park network, a national park pass is necessary (which you probably already bought in Banff / Jasper), although they don’t thoroughly check. If you’re wise and not trying to live up to some pressing distance aspiration, I full-heartedly recommend to allow some recovery time here. Bring your bathing suit.
Distance: 171km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Bicycle strip at most areas, but poor road conditions.
Views: Villages, countryside, lakes, forests.
Water Situation: Lots of services and houses along the way to obtain water from. Shops along the way.
Food Situation: All the way through: in every little village you'll find bakeries, supermarkets and eateries. Hubs are Kingston (big city), then Gananoque, Brockville, Prescott, Cardinal, Iroquois, Morrisville and Ingleside.
(Sunny, headwind)
I woke up in the most insane, amazing house I’ve ever been in. My conscience reminded me that I had once again 170+ km to cycle, this time with headwind, but my hedonistic brain tempted me to spend as much time with this frivolous individual as possible. So after a shared breakfast and an entire arsenal full of exuberant stories, I finally hit the road. Too late of course, if I would make my distance-goal I had to cycle until 2AM. Which I did, as when I set a goal for myself, I stick to it. I listen to no one but myself, and I ain’t got no mercy.
It helped that despite the headwind, the scenery delightfully distracted me from the heavy task at hand. The quality of the road surface drastically diminished and suddenly greeted me with open potholes and cracks (a gradual introduction to Quebec), but the backdrop just reached a new high in this already overwhelmingly appealing area between Toronto and Montreal. Today, the cycle paths guides you through the enchanting universe called Thousand Islands National Park, which sounds as enthralling as it looks. As this territory indeed belongs to Canada’s national park network, a national park pass is necessary (which you probably already bought in Banff / Jasper), although they don’t thoroughly check. If you’re wise and not trying to live up to some pressing distance aspiration, I full-heartedly recommend to allow some recovery time here. Bring your bathing suit.
Canada is not comparable to my homeland (The Netherlands) when it comes to its cycling culture. Back there the bicycle far surpassed the purpose of leisure and/or sport: It’s our main mode of transportation, most people I know owning at least 2 or 3 of them. Therefore, no one is going to even acknowledge other cyclists, unless it’s out of annoyance when you’re in their way. What I therefore deeply enjoy in Canada, is the feeling of “brotherhood” and companionship among cyclists. They even wave at each other when passing, it’s simply too cute. A tradition I definitely aim to carry on! That sense of community extends to lending each other a helping hand when troubles find us, which caused me to instantly jump off my saddle once I detected a fellow rider suffering a flat. It’s like the universe wanted to radiate a warning, as not much further down the road I got a flat of my own. The first one in 6000 kilometres, it’s about time! It was already pitch dark and I still had quite a serious distance to go to reach my goal, so destiny didn’t quite pick its moment. It was simultaneously the moment of encountering the very first unhelpful Canadian in 6000km, as even though she worked in a gas station she didn’t have a pump (okay, understandable) nor a bucket of water (ehhh right, you never mop the floor here? - hard to believe). Well… I guess I can’t locate the puncture then… right. I scratched my head and tried to remember the lessons of my swift bicycle-basics-masterclass a day before I took off… could I remember how to change the entire tire? No time to start guessing, I can’t get any further now either, so I might as well give it a go.
Miraculously, I managed. It’s probably the most simple thing to most of us, but I embrace these little victories. I felt like a proper muscle alpha female! Riding high I sped forward to the exact amount of kilometres I had set my mind on, and instantly pulled over to pitch my tent at a little fisherman’s grass patch at the lake.
Miraculously, I managed. It’s probably the most simple thing to most of us, but I embrace these little victories. I felt like a proper muscle alpha female! Riding high I sped forward to the exact amount of kilometres I had set my mind on, and instantly pulled over to pitch my tent at a little fisherman’s grass patch at the lake.
Day 59: Ingleside - Montreal
Distance: 164km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Bicycle strip at most areas, but poor road conditions. It gets better in Montreal.
Views: Villages, countryside, lakes, forests, city.
Water Situation: Lots of services and houses along the way to obtain water from. Shops along the way.
Food Situation: All the way through: in every little village you'll find bakeries, supermarkets and eateries. Hubs are Ingleside, Long Sault, Cornwall (big city), South Lancaster, Saint Zotique, Les Coteaux, Coteau de Lac, Les Cedres and the whole area leading into Montreal.
(Sunny, side-wind)
It was after 2AM when I could finally collapse under the exhaustion and sleep deprivation. Therefore, I could have done without the loud 7AM conversation between two kayakers right next to my tent. Consideration is not everyone’s strongest suit. At least it drilled me out of my sleeping bag timely, as I had yet a 4th long day to embrace before I finally would have hit my bonkers goal to complete the full Toronto-Montreal Section in 4 short days.
To my great satisfaction I noted that my tire was still holding up, so I must have done something right. For the first time in a month in Ontario, I also noticed that my tent was still entirely dry in the morning and not covered by oppressive, dripping humidity. An uplifting reminder of me finally leaving this beast of a province today. I had cycled through it for a staggering 2,646.6km, I thought I’d never see the end of it. It’s too f’ing long, honestly, in a country-giant like Canada you need to at least switch provinces every few weeks to feel the progress and stay motivated. Well, today was finally the day, and the change was going to be dramatic. As not only did the landscape gradually change into something less jungl’ey, I was driving into an entirely new linguistic zone which comes with a distinct culture, social fabric and cuisine.
“Zere’s no Canada like French Canada iet’s ze best Canada in ze land. Ze other Canada is a bullshit Canada, if you lived here for a day you’d understand…”, I couldn’t help but hearing in the back of my brain, as a weathered South Park devotee.
I did it. I finally did it. I cycled out of Ontario. A province as big as Germany, England and France combined with still some space to spare. On its last day it tried extra hard to make an ever-lasting impression, with once again idyllic scenery, immaculate cycling paths and even cyclist-services along the way such as public bike-pumps, water fountains and elaborate picnic areas. Like you didn’t have multiple near-death-experiences every single day you spent here. Too late Ontario! Yes, you’re gorgeous, I give you that… but your absolute disregard for cyclists, your overwhelming humidity, and not to mention the relentless collective of mozzies and black flies draining my blood reserves and eating entire chunks out of my face, is what will stick with me for a lifetime. Next!
After Ontario: 59 days, 6623.5km
(Total Ontario: 2,646.6km)
Distance: 164km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Bicycle strip at most areas, but poor road conditions. It gets better in Montreal.
Views: Villages, countryside, lakes, forests, city.
Water Situation: Lots of services and houses along the way to obtain water from. Shops along the way.
Food Situation: All the way through: in every little village you'll find bakeries, supermarkets and eateries. Hubs are Ingleside, Long Sault, Cornwall (big city), South Lancaster, Saint Zotique, Les Coteaux, Coteau de Lac, Les Cedres and the whole area leading into Montreal.
(Sunny, side-wind)
It was after 2AM when I could finally collapse under the exhaustion and sleep deprivation. Therefore, I could have done without the loud 7AM conversation between two kayakers right next to my tent. Consideration is not everyone’s strongest suit. At least it drilled me out of my sleeping bag timely, as I had yet a 4th long day to embrace before I finally would have hit my bonkers goal to complete the full Toronto-Montreal Section in 4 short days.
To my great satisfaction I noted that my tire was still holding up, so I must have done something right. For the first time in a month in Ontario, I also noticed that my tent was still entirely dry in the morning and not covered by oppressive, dripping humidity. An uplifting reminder of me finally leaving this beast of a province today. I had cycled through it for a staggering 2,646.6km, I thought I’d never see the end of it. It’s too f’ing long, honestly, in a country-giant like Canada you need to at least switch provinces every few weeks to feel the progress and stay motivated. Well, today was finally the day, and the change was going to be dramatic. As not only did the landscape gradually change into something less jungl’ey, I was driving into an entirely new linguistic zone which comes with a distinct culture, social fabric and cuisine.
“Zere’s no Canada like French Canada iet’s ze best Canada in ze land. Ze other Canada is a bullshit Canada, if you lived here for a day you’d understand…”, I couldn’t help but hearing in the back of my brain, as a weathered South Park devotee.
I did it. I finally did it. I cycled out of Ontario. A province as big as Germany, England and France combined with still some space to spare. On its last day it tried extra hard to make an ever-lasting impression, with once again idyllic scenery, immaculate cycling paths and even cyclist-services along the way such as public bike-pumps, water fountains and elaborate picnic areas. Like you didn’t have multiple near-death-experiences every single day you spent here. Too late Ontario! Yes, you’re gorgeous, I give you that… but your absolute disregard for cyclists, your overwhelming humidity, and not to mention the relentless collective of mozzies and black flies draining my blood reserves and eating entire chunks out of my face, is what will stick with me for a lifetime. Next!
After Ontario: 59 days, 6623.5km
(Total Ontario: 2,646.6km)
Quick Budget Fact Overview
Canada Facts
Short History Recap
Ice Age: First humans migrate from Asia. 11th century: Norse establish first known European settlement on Newfoundland island. 1583: Newfoundland England's first overseas colony. 1701: 38 indigenous groups sign peace treaty with France. ’56: Seven Years' War between New France and larger / economically-stronger British colonies. ’63: Treaty of Paris → England acquires all French colonies east of the Mississippi incl. New France (becomes Quebec). ‘74: Quebec Act recognises French language & Roman Catholic religion. ‘76 onwards: Refugees from American War of Independence settle in Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, Quebec & Ontario. 1800s: Immigration from UK. ’37-38: Armed rebellions, dissatisfaction with ruling elites, poverty and social divisions. ’67: British North America Act → unites Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia and New Brunswick in Dominion of Canada. ’85: Canadian Pacific railroad. 1914: WWI → Canada fights on side of England and France. ’39: WWII → Canadian forces in Europe and Atlantic. ’49: Founder member of Nato. ’50: Canada/UN participates in War in Korea. ’65: New flag. ’70: Front de Liberation du Quebec kidnap an English trade official and murder a Quebec minister. ’82: England transfers final legal powers over to Canada. New constitution. ’91: Canadian forces participate in Gulf War. ’92: Canada, US & Mexico finalise North American Free Trade Agreement (Nafta). ’95: Referendum in Quebec rejects independence by a margin of 1%. ’99: Territory of Nunavut created in northern Canada (self-governing region with majority of indigenous population). 2002: Troops in Afghanistan. ’10: Winter Olympics. ’14: Mission to map Arctic seabed, in support of bid to extend territory up to North Pole. ’16: Free trade agreement with EU. ’17: Promised compensation to indigenous people who were kidnapped to be brought up by primarily white middle-class families. New trade deal replacing Nafta.
Canada Facts
- Capital: Ottawa
- Language: English, French
- Population: ± 39 mln (Ottawa: 1.76mln)
- Sq km: ± 9.985 (Montreal: 365)
- Currency: Canadian Dollar ($ - CAD)
- Electricity Outlet: A + B / 120 V / 60 Hz. Check here.
- Country Code Phone: +1
- Emergency Phone: 911
- Visa: Some countries need to apply for a visa, which can be done here or here.The ones that don’t need to apply for a visa waiver, called an ETA, which is a very cheap and fast process.
- Vaccinations: None.
- Climate: The country is so huge, that we’re dealing with several climate zones. The far north has a Tundra Climate (ET). Below that a zone of Subarctic Climate (Dfc), with patches of Dwc and Dsc. The southern stretch along the US border is mainly Humid Continental (Dfb), with patches of Temperate Oceanic (Cfb).
- High season: June-September. Summer is most pleasant due to the harsh climates in the colder seasons.
Short History Recap
Ice Age: First humans migrate from Asia. 11th century: Norse establish first known European settlement on Newfoundland island. 1583: Newfoundland England's first overseas colony. 1701: 38 indigenous groups sign peace treaty with France. ’56: Seven Years' War between New France and larger / economically-stronger British colonies. ’63: Treaty of Paris → England acquires all French colonies east of the Mississippi incl. New France (becomes Quebec). ‘74: Quebec Act recognises French language & Roman Catholic religion. ‘76 onwards: Refugees from American War of Independence settle in Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, Quebec & Ontario. 1800s: Immigration from UK. ’37-38: Armed rebellions, dissatisfaction with ruling elites, poverty and social divisions. ’67: British North America Act → unites Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia and New Brunswick in Dominion of Canada. ’85: Canadian Pacific railroad. 1914: WWI → Canada fights on side of England and France. ’39: WWII → Canadian forces in Europe and Atlantic. ’49: Founder member of Nato. ’50: Canada/UN participates in War in Korea. ’65: New flag. ’70: Front de Liberation du Quebec kidnap an English trade official and murder a Quebec minister. ’82: England transfers final legal powers over to Canada. New constitution. ’91: Canadian forces participate in Gulf War. ’92: Canada, US & Mexico finalise North American Free Trade Agreement (Nafta). ’95: Referendum in Quebec rejects independence by a margin of 1%. ’99: Territory of Nunavut created in northern Canada (self-governing region with majority of indigenous population). 2002: Troops in Afghanistan. ’10: Winter Olympics. ’14: Mission to map Arctic seabed, in support of bid to extend territory up to North Pole. ’16: Free trade agreement with EU. ’17: Promised compensation to indigenous people who were kidnapped to be brought up by primarily white middle-class families. New trade deal replacing Nafta.
Budget Bites
Sleep Cheap
- Main Supermarket Chains Canada: Sobeys, Metro, Walmart, No Frills, Foodland, Maxi, Your Independent Grocer, Real Canadian Superstore, Safeway.
- Local Dishes: Poutine (fries with cheese curds and gravy), Tourtiere (meat pie), Wild Pacific Salmon, Pate Chinois (layered ground beef, cream corn and mashed potato), Alberta Beef, Rappie Pie (grated potatoes pattie with pork fat, sea food and ground meat), Hodge Podge (vegetable/potato stew), Yukon Reindeer, Caraquets (oysters), Nova Scotia / Newfoundland Lobster, Fish and Brewis (hard biscuits mixed with cod or pork), Pealmeal Bacon (broiled lean pork loin), Split Pea Soup (incl. pork), Jiggs Dinner (beef, greens and split pea pudding), Fiddle Heads (cooked rolled fern leaves), Bannock (typical bread), Beavertails (deepfried bread with sweet toppings / Canadian donut), Montreal Bagel (boiled in honeyed water), Trempettes (crispy sweet pancakes), Touton (thick pancake), Cipaille (meat pie), Maple Taffy / Tire d’Erable (maple syrup frozen over snow), Butter Tarts (pastry), Saskatoon Berry Pie, Nanaimo Bars (crumb-custard-chocolate cake), Pouding Chomeur (cake with hot syrup), Cretons (pork spread), Oreilles de Crisses (deepfried pork rinds).
- The Veg Situation: Going veg is not so complicated in Canada, as vegetarianism and veganism is widely accepted. Most supermarkets contain veg products, be it very processed at times. Veg restaurants can be found here.
- National Drink: Ceasar Cocktail (Canadian bloody mary, sometimes with food hanging off of it), beer, wine.
Sleep Cheap
- Hostels / Hotels / Guesthouses: You probably knew already, before even booking your trip, that visiting Canada isn’t cheap. This goes for accommodation as well. Without being paid to say so, I love Booking.com: They have the biggest selection, are transparent about the final price and have an efficient search engine tailored to your specific needs (cheapest first!). If you use it often enough, Genius-discounts are applied. Air BnB is not what it used to be, price-wise, but in Canada they usually offer cheaper stays than in hotels or even hostels. Be mindful of the additional booking and cleaning costs though, as they can really add up. Writer’s Choice: In Ontario I found hosts via shared contacts, as well as via the online networks of Warm Showers and Couchsurfing. Many times I also wild-camped, which is legal on crown land.
- Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost (unless you put a third-world country as homebase), but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate review explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored). The Couchsurfing community in Canada definitely is a rather active one, incl. events organized in most of the cities. If your’re biketouring you can also look into Warm Showers, which is a bikepacking community focussing primarily on 1-night stays.
- Wild Camping: is officially legal in Canada. You can pitch your tent anywhere on crown land and you’ll even be abe to find free camping spots. The WikiCamps App Canada is extremely useful for finding these, with community reviews. If public land is scarce, you can ask permission to camp on someone’s private land. Canadians are very kind and hospitable and will likely allow you to do so. In national and provincial parks camping is only allowed on designated campsites or with a permit, and you’ll have to pay a nightly fee (wild camping in these areas is heavily fined).
Mama Said
Transport
Next?
- Safety: Canada is a very safe country with a low crime rate. Outside of the main cities, I met people who don’t lock their houses or cars. In nature, there are several wide animals to take into account, including black bears, grizzly bears, rattle snakes, coyotes, lynxes and cougars.
- Tap Water: is safe to drink.
- The best credit/debit card for traveling is Wise, as they use the live conversion rates with minimal exchange fees. Wise also has the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. That said, I do find their customer service rather questionable. Revolut is comparable, but they have higher exchange fees in the weekend and less wallet-options. Also, you can only wire money to Revolut in the currency you opened the account with, whereas Wise has IBAN’s from a wide variety of currencies, so you don’t have to pay a double exchange fee. Both Revolut and Wise have the option to open a Canadian Dollar wallet. Most Canadian ATMs charge a fee for cash outs, but card payments are accepted everywhere.
- Simcard: Data is known to be incredibly expensive in Canada, with one of the highest rate-per-gb in the world. Prices are even higher if you buy your SIM at the airport. Therefore, either go to the flagship stores to buy a sim (yes, you also pay seperately for the sim, without anything on it), or simply buy one in supermarkets, post offices, gas stations and even in the Dollarama. You can then add credit or a bundle online or via the app. The brands with the cheapest deals are known to be Lucky Mobile, Chatr, Koodo Mobile and Fido (although still terrible money-worth compared to basically everywhere else in the world). The best network coverage is known to be by Telus, Bell and Rogers. If your phone supports eSims, this might be worth looking into, as it’s in most cases more affordable. I used Lucky Mobile which had the cheapest data packages (sim bought in Dollarama), and noticed I had a similar coverage compared to any of the more expensive brands.
Transport
- Walking: Montreal is a pedestrian friendly city. Yet, as it’s rather big, alternative transport from neighbourhood to neighbourhood might be recommended.
- Cycling: Montreal has 1065km of bicycle lanes. Find a map here. There’s a bikesharing system called BIXI, which charges an unlocking fee and a rate-per-minute.
- Public Transport: Montreal has buses and an efficient metro system. You can pay per ride (incl. 1 transfer to bus) or 2 rides, or get a 3-day, unlimited evening, unlimited weekend or week ticket. Oddly enough, the week ticket runs from Monday to Sunday, so if you buy it on a Sunday it only works one day. The weekend ticket starts Friday 4PM. You can pay at the ticket machines, at the metro desks or get an Opus Card. Buses also sell tickets. Children travel free.
- Taxi / Uber: Canada has taxi apps such as Uber, Lyft and Zoomzoom. Car2Go is a car sharing app.
- Train: Canada has a train network operated by Via Rail, but this is a notoriously expensive option (generally double the bus prices, which are also not cheap). Book as early as possible and buy tickets on Tuesday to save some money. There’s a train line to the suburbs as well, called Exo.
- Car Rental: This is not a cheap endeavour in Canada. However, the best deals can generally be found when the car is picked up from an airport.
- Airport: Montreal Pierre Elliott Trudeau International Airport. Reached by Bus 747 (special ticket needed) runs 24/7.
- Hitchhiking: is relatively safe and easy in Canada, but definitively not common. Don’t bother with the ride-share websites or Facebook groups, as people dare to ask more than the bus and even train tickets. More info on hitchhiking in and out of Montreal can be found on Hitchwiki.
Next?
- In Canada: Manitoba.
- International Destinations Close By: United States, Greenland.
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