Cross-Canada Cycle Journey 6:
Ontario Part-1
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I let the familiar sense of accomplishment, excitement and curiosity take over once I crossed yet another provincial border on pure leg-power. In a country the size of Canada, every province matches a few countries on its own, which truly make those moments a milestone. Yet, with Ontario I truly had no idea what I had just gotten myself into. I mean, I had eyes, I could see the map. I could read the term “1,076,395 km²”… but those kind of numbers seem just mythical to me. I googled it, but not a single European country matches that size. Even if I put country-groups together, like The Balkans, The Baltics, the United Kingdom, former Yugoslavia or even the entire Scandinavian peninsula… nothing is as big as Ontario! And we’re talking about a province here, which I apparently am going to cycle, taking the absolute longest southern route I could possibly find to avoid the Trans-Canada wherever possible. It’s official, people, I must be downright insane.
Day 38: Kenora - Sioux Narrows
Distance: 86.4km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalted shoulder. Hilly.
Views: Forests, lakes, towns, provincial park.
Water Situation: There are many lakes, from which it’s possible to filter water. Otherwise you can buy it in Kenora, Longbow Lake or Sioux Narrows.
Food Situation: Kenora is a big, well-serviced town with many shops and supermarkets. Longbow Lake has a gas station with a small shop. Sioux Narrows has a few small shops and eateries.
(Cloudy with sun, headwind)
My first full day in Ontario was quite an interesting one. I stood for the decision: Either continue on the Trans-Canada Highway (17) towards Thunder Bay (487km), dealing with some of the country’s wildest traffic on a road by no means catered to cyclists, or bend right onto the 71 towards the American border and then go left alongside it, away from the main traffic flow (562km). Not the heaviest conundrum, especially considering the glorious reviews of the natural wealth to be found in this corner of Ontario, nicknamed the “Canadian Shield.” The first 27km from Keewatin, where I was hosted by a son-of-a-friend-of-a-friend-of-a-friend a.k.a. complete strangers, confirmed I made the right choice in that regards.
However, I didn’t take a few elements into consideration: 1) The wind, which pushed right against me the second I hit the 71; 2) The sudden hills, which were an abrupt shock after the gradual Prairies; and 3) The mosquitoes. Jesus H. Christ, the mosquitoes! An absolute infestation, fuelled by the dense forests and humid conditions of greener-than-green-Ontario, up to a point you get close to suicidal. I’m not saying the Trans-Canada is free of ‘em, but one day less in this Insect Inferno might weigh into your final decision. Especially taking the otherwise delightful remoteness of the 71 and the 11 into account, which in this case also means: absolutely no shelter whatsoever (opposed to the 17, where you might find roadside restaurants and gas stations). Which means you cannot stop. And that, my friends, is problematic. With cycling distances like this, your body needs regular breaks to regain strength. Not to mention the simple logic of energy replenishment: you need to eat when you’re burning like this. Yet, the second you get off your bike to do so, it’s like you just put on a pair of black pants: within seconds you’re covered in a thick layer of those greedy bloodsuckers, who seem entirely resistant to even the strongest and most toxic repellent you close-to-drowned yourself in. They’re machines, fighting for that scarce drop of blood among their overpopulated species in that damned month of July.
That said, through the distance and isolation of a computer screen: Ontario is stunning. Especially today’s section through the Eagle-Dogtooth Provincial Park. Good lord, after the Prairies, this huge place on Earth feels like a long, smeared out stretch of paradise. You’re doing it right, you’re living it through my photos and videos, without having to suffer through its harsh conditions.
Distance: 86.4km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalted shoulder. Hilly.
Views: Forests, lakes, towns, provincial park.
Water Situation: There are many lakes, from which it’s possible to filter water. Otherwise you can buy it in Kenora, Longbow Lake or Sioux Narrows.
Food Situation: Kenora is a big, well-serviced town with many shops and supermarkets. Longbow Lake has a gas station with a small shop. Sioux Narrows has a few small shops and eateries.
(Cloudy with sun, headwind)
My first full day in Ontario was quite an interesting one. I stood for the decision: Either continue on the Trans-Canada Highway (17) towards Thunder Bay (487km), dealing with some of the country’s wildest traffic on a road by no means catered to cyclists, or bend right onto the 71 towards the American border and then go left alongside it, away from the main traffic flow (562km). Not the heaviest conundrum, especially considering the glorious reviews of the natural wealth to be found in this corner of Ontario, nicknamed the “Canadian Shield.” The first 27km from Keewatin, where I was hosted by a son-of-a-friend-of-a-friend-of-a-friend a.k.a. complete strangers, confirmed I made the right choice in that regards.
However, I didn’t take a few elements into consideration: 1) The wind, which pushed right against me the second I hit the 71; 2) The sudden hills, which were an abrupt shock after the gradual Prairies; and 3) The mosquitoes. Jesus H. Christ, the mosquitoes! An absolute infestation, fuelled by the dense forests and humid conditions of greener-than-green-Ontario, up to a point you get close to suicidal. I’m not saying the Trans-Canada is free of ‘em, but one day less in this Insect Inferno might weigh into your final decision. Especially taking the otherwise delightful remoteness of the 71 and the 11 into account, which in this case also means: absolutely no shelter whatsoever (opposed to the 17, where you might find roadside restaurants and gas stations). Which means you cannot stop. And that, my friends, is problematic. With cycling distances like this, your body needs regular breaks to regain strength. Not to mention the simple logic of energy replenishment: you need to eat when you’re burning like this. Yet, the second you get off your bike to do so, it’s like you just put on a pair of black pants: within seconds you’re covered in a thick layer of those greedy bloodsuckers, who seem entirely resistant to even the strongest and most toxic repellent you close-to-drowned yourself in. They’re machines, fighting for that scarce drop of blood among their overpopulated species in that damned month of July.
That said, through the distance and isolation of a computer screen: Ontario is stunning. Especially today’s section through the Eagle-Dogtooth Provincial Park. Good lord, after the Prairies, this huge place on Earth feels like a long, smeared out stretch of paradise. You’re doing it right, you’re living it through my photos and videos, without having to suffer through its harsh conditions.
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I stopped early, at the little settlement of Sioux Narrows, a 300-resident-town that used to be the home of the indigenous Cree and Ojibway people, before it fell in the exploiting hands of European fur traders. Every single Canadian that had crossed my path that week had been building up the suspense of the Stanley Cup finals, labelled the “game of the century.” If I wanted to see “history being made” I had no choice but to watch it and fair enough, as ice hockey is the national sport, I decided to grab this opportunity under the flag of a cultural immersion. Unfortunately for Canada, history was not being made, unless it’s in a negative context of them losing a game against another team full of Canadians who were hired to play for the US. By the time the game had ended, it was already dark outside. As I had watched the drinking speed and quantity of the average viewer, as well as the absence of street lights outside of the town’s border, I figured I’d stay here for the night. I had spotted some show-models of the nowadays popular “tiny homes”, and being who I am, I of course had already checked if they were locked or not. One of them wasn’t. A roof above my head, a mosquito-free space, shelter from the predicted storm… I knew where I’ll be sleeping! I’d leave the place clean and undisturbed and wouldn’t bother anyone, so no one would even know.
Day 39: Sioux Narrows - Emo
Distance: 106.1km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalted shoulder, sometimes it gets very narrow.
Views: Forests, lakes, towns, provincial park.
Water Situation: There are many lakes, from which it’s possible to filter water. Tap water apparently isn't always potable in this area. Otherwise you can buy it from the shops in Sioux Narrows (or get it for free at the Sportfishing Centre), Nestor Falls and Emo.
Food Situation: Small grocery stores and eateries in Sioux Narrows. Some restaurants and gas station in Nestor falls. Emo has a supermarket.
(Cloudy with sun, head and side-wind)
I experienced a solid and untroubled night rest in my private mini-home, while Sioux Narrow’s daily life woke up around it, unsuspecting of its secret guest. Finally out of the mosquito whirlwind, protected by useful window-nets that let in a cooling breeze, I decided to even extend the morning inside of my little shelter, working online on some emails and administration. It would have been really funny if they had a customer viewing planned at that very moment, and they’d see me in there with my entire setup, but (un?)fortunately that did not happen. Before I took off, I paid a visit to the Northern Ontario Sportfishing Centre that had a small and free museum inside (while wondering why this isn’t called southern, western or central Ontario… it’s all but north here!).
Next stop: Nestor Falls. As the signage leading up to this destination was plenty and promising, my expectations were rather high. Let’s just say… they weren’t entirely met. While standing on some viewing platform I went all around looking for them, not realizing that whatever little piss-stream was in front of me was already the main sight. Man-made, even! Not worth the stop whatsoever, unless you want to enjoy the luxury of a restaurant meal (out of the mosquito-cloud). I decided to move onwards to my end destination of the day instead: Emo, where I would be hosted by the uncle of the son-of-a-friend-of-a-friend-of-a-friend that welcomed me in Kenora (these connections are getting out of hand, honestly)! The route was bothersome, insect-wise, but absolutely stunning, passing Caliper Lake Provincial Park, Little Pine Lake and a village called Finland. I finished the 71 and turned right just before I’d drive right into the US, following the Rainy River forming the border. Sweat poured out of my body when I rocked up at my host Murray’s house, who turned out to have his birthday during my visit. The landscapes may have dramatically changed, the Prairie’s dry heat had shifted to sweltering and humid… but the Canadian kindness and hospitality? That’s a constant factor you can rely on.
Distance: 106.1km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalted shoulder, sometimes it gets very narrow.
Views: Forests, lakes, towns, provincial park.
Water Situation: There are many lakes, from which it’s possible to filter water. Tap water apparently isn't always potable in this area. Otherwise you can buy it from the shops in Sioux Narrows (or get it for free at the Sportfishing Centre), Nestor Falls and Emo.
Food Situation: Small grocery stores and eateries in Sioux Narrows. Some restaurants and gas station in Nestor falls. Emo has a supermarket.
(Cloudy with sun, head and side-wind)
I experienced a solid and untroubled night rest in my private mini-home, while Sioux Narrow’s daily life woke up around it, unsuspecting of its secret guest. Finally out of the mosquito whirlwind, protected by useful window-nets that let in a cooling breeze, I decided to even extend the morning inside of my little shelter, working online on some emails and administration. It would have been really funny if they had a customer viewing planned at that very moment, and they’d see me in there with my entire setup, but (un?)fortunately that did not happen. Before I took off, I paid a visit to the Northern Ontario Sportfishing Centre that had a small and free museum inside (while wondering why this isn’t called southern, western or central Ontario… it’s all but north here!).
Next stop: Nestor Falls. As the signage leading up to this destination was plenty and promising, my expectations were rather high. Let’s just say… they weren’t entirely met. While standing on some viewing platform I went all around looking for them, not realizing that whatever little piss-stream was in front of me was already the main sight. Man-made, even! Not worth the stop whatsoever, unless you want to enjoy the luxury of a restaurant meal (out of the mosquito-cloud). I decided to move onwards to my end destination of the day instead: Emo, where I would be hosted by the uncle of the son-of-a-friend-of-a-friend-of-a-friend that welcomed me in Kenora (these connections are getting out of hand, honestly)! The route was bothersome, insect-wise, but absolutely stunning, passing Caliper Lake Provincial Park, Little Pine Lake and a village called Finland. I finished the 71 and turned right just before I’d drive right into the US, following the Rainy River forming the border. Sweat poured out of my body when I rocked up at my host Murray’s house, who turned out to have his birthday during my visit. The landscapes may have dramatically changed, the Prairie’s dry heat had shifted to sweltering and humid… but the Canadian kindness and hospitality? That’s a constant factor you can rely on.
Day 40: Emo – Crilly (field in the middle of nowhere)
Distance: 137.2km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalted shoulder, sometimes it gets narrow.
Views: Forests, lakes, river, towns, provincial park.
Water Situation: There are many lakes and a river, from which it’s possible to filter water. Tap water apparently isn't always potable in this area. You can buy water in shops in Emo, Devlin, Fort Frances and Nigigoonsiminikaaning (try typing that in google maps).
Food Situation: Supermarket in Emo. Gas station with small shop in Devlin. Fort Frances is a big, well-serviced town: I recommend buying everything here for 3 days’ worth, for better prices and a bigger collection. After Fort Frances and before Windy Point there’s a gas station, then there’s nothing for a while. Windey's Food Market at Nigigoonsiminikaaning.
(Cloudy, light drizzle, side wind)
I woke up in a comfortable bed, knowing very well that would be the last time I’d experience such luxury until I would reach Thunder Bay. After my last social interaction of the upcoming few days, I hit the road, having Canada on my left and a fierce wind blowing out of the US on my right. The next town up is sharply marked by that division, with a land border cutting right through the town and splitting the exact same settlement into partly Fort Frances (CA) and International Falls (US). The town itself is nothing worth quarrelling over though: it’s a pretty bland commercial area, lacking both personality and cultural identity. That said, it’s the last place in 2-3 days where you can properly sit inside, away from all the vermin determined on ruining your life. For some reason, I decided to eat my lunch outside though, at a playground infested with caterpillars. It took hundreds of them crawling over my legs, my food, my hair and trying to slither into my bike bags to finally chase me into the Tim Hortons. A bad omen of the days to come.
Stocked up on food for the next 3 days to come I cycled onwards. In a place that looked like heaven, but felt like hell. If I would have attached a webcam to my head all the way, you would just marvel at the natural resplendence of this stretch ahead, swirling through the Couchiching, Rainy Lake, Nigigoonsiminikaaning and Sturgeon Falls Indian Reserves. The road hops over endless emerald lakes connecting island to island, and peninsula to peninsula. Dreamy. Downright dreamy. However, reality-check: if you’re standing right in it, you’ll not only collapse under the searing heat and the constant attack of the Legion of the Mozzies, now also TICKS have entered the scene. I’m familiar with the bastards, I even overcame Lyme disease the year before… but this, THIS! Ticks just thriiiiiiive in Ontario, absolute next level tick action. Not only did I have to smash my food cold at record speed while running around (and swearing vigorously), I spent a whooping 45 minutes removing tick after tick after tick from both my body and clothing. They were crawling in masses over my tent screen.
Distance: 137.2km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalted shoulder, sometimes it gets narrow.
Views: Forests, lakes, river, towns, provincial park.
Water Situation: There are many lakes and a river, from which it’s possible to filter water. Tap water apparently isn't always potable in this area. You can buy water in shops in Emo, Devlin, Fort Frances and Nigigoonsiminikaaning (try typing that in google maps).
Food Situation: Supermarket in Emo. Gas station with small shop in Devlin. Fort Frances is a big, well-serviced town: I recommend buying everything here for 3 days’ worth, for better prices and a bigger collection. After Fort Frances and before Windy Point there’s a gas station, then there’s nothing for a while. Windey's Food Market at Nigigoonsiminikaaning.
(Cloudy, light drizzle, side wind)
I woke up in a comfortable bed, knowing very well that would be the last time I’d experience such luxury until I would reach Thunder Bay. After my last social interaction of the upcoming few days, I hit the road, having Canada on my left and a fierce wind blowing out of the US on my right. The next town up is sharply marked by that division, with a land border cutting right through the town and splitting the exact same settlement into partly Fort Frances (CA) and International Falls (US). The town itself is nothing worth quarrelling over though: it’s a pretty bland commercial area, lacking both personality and cultural identity. That said, it’s the last place in 2-3 days where you can properly sit inside, away from all the vermin determined on ruining your life. For some reason, I decided to eat my lunch outside though, at a playground infested with caterpillars. It took hundreds of them crawling over my legs, my food, my hair and trying to slither into my bike bags to finally chase me into the Tim Hortons. A bad omen of the days to come.
Stocked up on food for the next 3 days to come I cycled onwards. In a place that looked like heaven, but felt like hell. If I would have attached a webcam to my head all the way, you would just marvel at the natural resplendence of this stretch ahead, swirling through the Couchiching, Rainy Lake, Nigigoonsiminikaaning and Sturgeon Falls Indian Reserves. The road hops over endless emerald lakes connecting island to island, and peninsula to peninsula. Dreamy. Downright dreamy. However, reality-check: if you’re standing right in it, you’ll not only collapse under the searing heat and the constant attack of the Legion of the Mozzies, now also TICKS have entered the scene. I’m familiar with the bastards, I even overcame Lyme disease the year before… but this, THIS! Ticks just thriiiiiiive in Ontario, absolute next level tick action. Not only did I have to smash my food cold at record speed while running around (and swearing vigorously), I spent a whooping 45 minutes removing tick after tick after tick from both my body and clothing. They were crawling in masses over my tent screen.
Day 41: Crilly - Kashabowie
Distance: 138km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalted shoulder, sometimes it gets narrow.
Views: Forests, lakes, river, towns.
Water Situation: There are many lakes and a river, from which it’s possible to filter water.
Food Situation: Nothing, unless you take a detour into Atikokan (adds 4km one-way). Some gas station with eatery around Crystal River (closes at 5pm).
(Sunny, side wind )
I woke up after an anxious, broken night. In a state of hysterical paranoia I had panicked at every small shiver or itch, wondering if a tick was inserting its nasty head into my skin surface. Setting up my tent in these conditions had been complete madness, scurrying through some desolate patch of grass I had traced down on a little side road, while mosquitos and black flies were fiercely eating my face. Out of pure nervousness and the constant heavy zooming in my ears, I had broken a tent pole, causing my tent to balance insecurely into the wind. It hadn’t helped that I had witnessed a bear running off just before I arrived either, while my bear canister was too full to contain all food. I had heard and felt heavy stomping and animal gallops around my tent all night, not knowing the source. I was so exhausted and stressed out, I just wanted to cry. But that doesn’t get me anywhere. Cycling 400km in 3 days (137 down) to reach Thunder Bay a day earlier does though, which especially seemed a good option knowing that heavy rain was coming. So I ignored my current misery and kept my eye on the prize.
After a messy breakfast, prepared inside of the tent to stay out of the Tick Purgatory, I decisively hit the road. I knew there was a long day ahead of me full of spicy hills and I would keep on pushing until my body simply wouldn’t be able to carry me any longer. Just like the other days, I traversed incomprehensible beauty, which is however hard to truly enjoy with an ongoing shadow of tension and fatigue. I had the option to enter civilization at the turn-off to Atikoken, which had received negative reviews of my cycling buddy who was there a few days earlier. As it would also mean and extra 8k, I decided to dedicate all my kilometres to the higher goal: reaching Thunder Bay asap, and getting the hell out of this Critter Shangri-La. At around midnight I faced my bodily and mental limits, having pushed a little further than I was seemingly capable of, as to avoid the troubles of illegal wild camping in Quetico Provincial Park (camping is only allowed at crown land). I had scanned out a wide variety of pull-offs and clearings detectable on Google Maps, but all options sucked. At some point I gave up, and plunged my tent down at a spot reeking like a decomposing skunk. Only to wake up from the alarming sound of a heavy downpour ramming on my tent.
Distance: 138km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalted shoulder, sometimes it gets narrow.
Views: Forests, lakes, river, towns.
Water Situation: There are many lakes and a river, from which it’s possible to filter water.
Food Situation: Nothing, unless you take a detour into Atikokan (adds 4km one-way). Some gas station with eatery around Crystal River (closes at 5pm).
(Sunny, side wind )
I woke up after an anxious, broken night. In a state of hysterical paranoia I had panicked at every small shiver or itch, wondering if a tick was inserting its nasty head into my skin surface. Setting up my tent in these conditions had been complete madness, scurrying through some desolate patch of grass I had traced down on a little side road, while mosquitos and black flies were fiercely eating my face. Out of pure nervousness and the constant heavy zooming in my ears, I had broken a tent pole, causing my tent to balance insecurely into the wind. It hadn’t helped that I had witnessed a bear running off just before I arrived either, while my bear canister was too full to contain all food. I had heard and felt heavy stomping and animal gallops around my tent all night, not knowing the source. I was so exhausted and stressed out, I just wanted to cry. But that doesn’t get me anywhere. Cycling 400km in 3 days (137 down) to reach Thunder Bay a day earlier does though, which especially seemed a good option knowing that heavy rain was coming. So I ignored my current misery and kept my eye on the prize.
After a messy breakfast, prepared inside of the tent to stay out of the Tick Purgatory, I decisively hit the road. I knew there was a long day ahead of me full of spicy hills and I would keep on pushing until my body simply wouldn’t be able to carry me any longer. Just like the other days, I traversed incomprehensible beauty, which is however hard to truly enjoy with an ongoing shadow of tension and fatigue. I had the option to enter civilization at the turn-off to Atikoken, which had received negative reviews of my cycling buddy who was there a few days earlier. As it would also mean and extra 8k, I decided to dedicate all my kilometres to the higher goal: reaching Thunder Bay asap, and getting the hell out of this Critter Shangri-La. At around midnight I faced my bodily and mental limits, having pushed a little further than I was seemingly capable of, as to avoid the troubles of illegal wild camping in Quetico Provincial Park (camping is only allowed at crown land). I had scanned out a wide variety of pull-offs and clearings detectable on Google Maps, but all options sucked. At some point I gave up, and plunged my tent down at a spot reeking like a decomposing skunk. Only to wake up from the alarming sound of a heavy downpour ramming on my tent.
Day 42: Kashabowie – Thunder Bay
Distance: 117.6km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalted shoulder, sometimes it gets narrow.
Views: Forests, lakes, river, town.
Water Situation: There are many lakes and a river, from which it’s possible to filter water. I wouldn’t do this once you’re getting closer to Thunder Bay, as this is a big city with more water pollution.
Food Situation: Gas station with eatery around Shebandowan. Then another one just after the crossing with Highway 17. Then gas stations with services start to appear more regularly as you get closer to Thunder Bay (gas station on split up doesn't have services or even a shelter).
(Pouring rain, head wind)
I was over this, so over this. Ontario was on the verge of breaking me down, shortly after being introduced to one another. How can a province be so beautiful, yet so draining? This day was going to be the worst of the sequence, zero fun to be had. If you have any doubts, let me elaborate on the morning. I woke up, looking at my tent pole which was dangerously bending under the heavy rain resting on my tent canvas. I had zero desire to get out of my tent, but in order to eat the calories needed to get started, I had to collect my bear canister on the other side of the field… getting absolutely soaked in the process. I tried to pee, but I couldn’t with a cape of mosquitoes behind me, stinging me all over my butt the second I dropped my pants. So I had to go inside of my tent and pee in a ziploc bag. An ultimate low of the trip, I felt less than a human. After killing the one million mosquitoes that followed me inside of my tent in the 3 nano-seconds available, I tried to boil water inside, to steer clear from the rain and insects. Due to the humpy ground surface and all my bike bags inside (to keep ‘em dry), I tipped over the pan of boiling water… so now I burned myself, my belongings were wet and I almost melted my tent. Then I had to pack my tent in the absolute pouring rain, while ticks were crawling up my leg and mosquitoes feasting on my face. Ready to cycle into a day of distress.
I thought it would never end. Especially as a fierce headwind stretched the time to an unbearable length, and I also took a wrong turn and had to backtrack an entire section. Every minute of the day I wish it was the last one. There wasn’t a second of relief from the rain, besides gas stations appearing every 30-40km, as I slowly returned to civilization. I treated myself in every single one of them, trying to eat my way back to happiness. Futile. I noticed myself cycling into yet another time zone, underlining the incomprehensible distances I was doing. Canada is so big, it has six different time zones, and I was now entering Eastern Standard Time, the 4th of the bunch (Pacific / Mountain / Central Standard Time behind me… Atlantic / Newfoundland Standard Time ahead). Now, I just wanted the time to fast-forward.
Distance: 117.6km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalted shoulder, sometimes it gets narrow.
Views: Forests, lakes, river, town.
Water Situation: There are many lakes and a river, from which it’s possible to filter water. I wouldn’t do this once you’re getting closer to Thunder Bay, as this is a big city with more water pollution.
Food Situation: Gas station with eatery around Shebandowan. Then another one just after the crossing with Highway 17. Then gas stations with services start to appear more regularly as you get closer to Thunder Bay (gas station on split up doesn't have services or even a shelter).
(Pouring rain, head wind)
I was over this, so over this. Ontario was on the verge of breaking me down, shortly after being introduced to one another. How can a province be so beautiful, yet so draining? This day was going to be the worst of the sequence, zero fun to be had. If you have any doubts, let me elaborate on the morning. I woke up, looking at my tent pole which was dangerously bending under the heavy rain resting on my tent canvas. I had zero desire to get out of my tent, but in order to eat the calories needed to get started, I had to collect my bear canister on the other side of the field… getting absolutely soaked in the process. I tried to pee, but I couldn’t with a cape of mosquitoes behind me, stinging me all over my butt the second I dropped my pants. So I had to go inside of my tent and pee in a ziploc bag. An ultimate low of the trip, I felt less than a human. After killing the one million mosquitoes that followed me inside of my tent in the 3 nano-seconds available, I tried to boil water inside, to steer clear from the rain and insects. Due to the humpy ground surface and all my bike bags inside (to keep ‘em dry), I tipped over the pan of boiling water… so now I burned myself, my belongings were wet and I almost melted my tent. Then I had to pack my tent in the absolute pouring rain, while ticks were crawling up my leg and mosquitoes feasting on my face. Ready to cycle into a day of distress.
I thought it would never end. Especially as a fierce headwind stretched the time to an unbearable length, and I also took a wrong turn and had to backtrack an entire section. Every minute of the day I wish it was the last one. There wasn’t a second of relief from the rain, besides gas stations appearing every 30-40km, as I slowly returned to civilization. I treated myself in every single one of them, trying to eat my way back to happiness. Futile. I noticed myself cycling into yet another time zone, underlining the incomprehensible distances I was doing. Canada is so big, it has six different time zones, and I was now entering Eastern Standard Time, the 4th of the bunch (Pacific / Mountain / Central Standard Time behind me… Atlantic / Newfoundland Standard Time ahead). Now, I just wanted the time to fast-forward.
Day 43: Thunder Bay – Nipigon
Distance: 102.2km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt. Sometimes there's a shoulder, sometimes there isn't.
Views: Forests, lakes, highway.
Water Situation: It’s possible to filter water from Lake Superior and small lakes around. There are also stores in Thunder Bay, Loon Lake and Nipigon.
Food Situation: Thunder Bay is a big, well-serviced city. There’s a gas station just before Loon Lake, and just before Nipigon. Nipigon has several grocery stores.
(Rain, side wind)
Cycling from Kenora to Thunder Bay was probably the ultimate low of my trip, 100% rodent-related… but my time with Arthur and Mel was undoubtedly one of the many highs. I stayed 4 comfortable nights in order to celebrate Canada Day in Thunder Bay, a place where there would be actual celebrations, opposed to the tiny villages alongside Lake Superior which would be up next. Canada’s national day (July 1st) celebrates the anniversary of the Confederation (1867) in which the three separate colonies of the United Canadas, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia where united into a single dominion (self-governance) called Canada, within the British Empire. Canada’s birthday, in a way, so time for a little party! Even though the celebrations toned down significantly in the light of a growing awareness of indigenous injustice and the unspeakable cruelties committed to the Indian people in the wake of what we now know as Canada, there were still some festivals, musical and dance celebrations and family activities organized at the Waterfront’s Marina Park. What I enjoyed even more was the very-very-Canadian way to spend the late afternoon: at Mel’s family’s cabin on the shore of Lake Superior, providing canoeing adventures and roasting (my very first) s’mores at a beach campfire. Oh Canada!
Distance: 102.2km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt. Sometimes there's a shoulder, sometimes there isn't.
Views: Forests, lakes, highway.
Water Situation: It’s possible to filter water from Lake Superior and small lakes around. There are also stores in Thunder Bay, Loon Lake and Nipigon.
Food Situation: Thunder Bay is a big, well-serviced city. There’s a gas station just before Loon Lake, and just before Nipigon. Nipigon has several grocery stores.
(Rain, side wind)
Cycling from Kenora to Thunder Bay was probably the ultimate low of my trip, 100% rodent-related… but my time with Arthur and Mel was undoubtedly one of the many highs. I stayed 4 comfortable nights in order to celebrate Canada Day in Thunder Bay, a place where there would be actual celebrations, opposed to the tiny villages alongside Lake Superior which would be up next. Canada’s national day (July 1st) celebrates the anniversary of the Confederation (1867) in which the three separate colonies of the United Canadas, New Brunswick and Nova Scotia where united into a single dominion (self-governance) called Canada, within the British Empire. Canada’s birthday, in a way, so time for a little party! Even though the celebrations toned down significantly in the light of a growing awareness of indigenous injustice and the unspeakable cruelties committed to the Indian people in the wake of what we now know as Canada, there were still some festivals, musical and dance celebrations and family activities organized at the Waterfront’s Marina Park. What I enjoyed even more was the very-very-Canadian way to spend the late afternoon: at Mel’s family’s cabin on the shore of Lake Superior, providing canoeing adventures and roasting (my very first) s’mores at a beach campfire. Oh Canada!
To say that I completely rested and recovered is an understatement. I didn’t even mind the rain while speeding off to Nipigon, where yet another Warm Showers host was awaiting my arrival with a home-cooked meal, a glass of wine and many (cycling) stories to share. The road to get there wasn’t particularly interesting, as you’re mainly trying to get out of a bigger city. Keep in mind that the Trans-Canada is off-limits for cyclists around Thunder Bay, which pushes you to safer and quieter countryside roads. Quite delightfully so. The only downside is the impossibility that route creates to visit the Terry Fox statue, commemorating the Canadian folk hero, athlete and cancer patient who ran a marathon a day across the country to raise awareness and research funds for this devastating disease. On one prosthetic leg, that is! He kicked off in St. John’s (Newfoundland), which would form the finale of my Cross-Canada Cycle Journey, and made it all the way until Thunder Bay, where he was forced to stop once cancer reappeared in his lungs, which would eventually kill him. The statue is erected on this very spot. Once you’re able to cycle onto the main road again, you’ll notice it’s also dubbed “Terry Fox Courage Highway”, as this extraordinary man might be gone, but definitely not forgotten.
Day 44: Nipigon – Terrace Bay
Distance: 102.7km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with shoulder.
Views: Forests, lakes, highway, provincial park, waterfalls, gorges.
Water Situation: It’s possible to filter water from Lake Superior and small lakes around. Plan this well, as often you're quite high above Lake Superior. There are shops and gas stations in Nipigon, Schreiber and Terrace Bay.
Food Situation: Nipigon has several grocery stores. 50km after Nipigon there's a gas station with a small shop. There’s a motel in Pays Plat. Schreiber has shops, gas stations and eateries, and so does Terrace Bay.
(Clouds and occasional sun, drizzle, side and headwind)
Nipigon turned out to be an amiable, calm town surrounded by delightful pine forests and greenery. It would be the proper start of my half-circle around the absolutely gigantic Lake Superior, which is half-Canadian, half-American. I got a first taster of it at Thunder Bay, but the cycling section right alongside it truly takes off at Nipigon, as the previous section is mainly shielded off by houses and highway. Lake Superior is surface-wise the largest freshwater lake in the world, holding 13% of the planet’s fresh water supply. And just to put the mere size of Ontario in perspective: Its shores take up only a small part of this province, whereas on the US-side it borders no less than three states: Minnesota, Michigan and Wisconsin! It would take me a full week to cycle the Canadian edge of it, my rhythm mainly determined by the limited availability of towns and services. This area is so sparsely populated that I would generally come across only one town a day, usually with a 90-100km interval. To limit the weight of food and water, it makes sense to plan the nightly stops around here. Fair enough, cycling across Canada shouldn’t just be regarded in daily distances: the sheer elevation gain is something to take into account, and in Ontario overall and this section in particular it is aggressive. I had some serious climbs ahead of me, requiring way more energy and muscle power than any Prairie-distance I ever did.
Today was going to be intense, incredibly sweaty and highly demanding… but also stunning! Expect and endless series of high-up views over this stunning piece of lake, regularly interrupted by the lush islands floating inside of Nipigon Bay. Every turn, every downhill holds another great reveal. You’ll be cycling across and alongside Ruby Lake Provincial Park, the Kama Hills, the Rainbow Falls Provincial Park and the Aguasabon Falls & Gorge. You have the option to spend the night in the cute picturesque lake-side village of Schreiber at 91km, proudly advertised to be the home of boxing champion Domenic Filane, or alternatively push forward for another 14km to Terrace Bay. I decided the latter, but first pulled over to have a look at the natural marvel of Aguasabon Falls, located just before the town entry. To my great delight I found a picnic area at its parking lot, with even some tables and toilets. I wasn’t entirely sure if it was legal to camp here, but as I didn’t see a sign that told me not to, I took my chances. I wouldn’t call it necessarily comfortable, with the accountable mosquito-army still loyally on duty to destroy my peace and body. This time I came prepared though: I had purchased a mosquito hat, a vital Ontario fashion-item.
Distance: 102.7km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with shoulder.
Views: Forests, lakes, highway, provincial park, waterfalls, gorges.
Water Situation: It’s possible to filter water from Lake Superior and small lakes around. Plan this well, as often you're quite high above Lake Superior. There are shops and gas stations in Nipigon, Schreiber and Terrace Bay.
Food Situation: Nipigon has several grocery stores. 50km after Nipigon there's a gas station with a small shop. There’s a motel in Pays Plat. Schreiber has shops, gas stations and eateries, and so does Terrace Bay.
(Clouds and occasional sun, drizzle, side and headwind)
Nipigon turned out to be an amiable, calm town surrounded by delightful pine forests and greenery. It would be the proper start of my half-circle around the absolutely gigantic Lake Superior, which is half-Canadian, half-American. I got a first taster of it at Thunder Bay, but the cycling section right alongside it truly takes off at Nipigon, as the previous section is mainly shielded off by houses and highway. Lake Superior is surface-wise the largest freshwater lake in the world, holding 13% of the planet’s fresh water supply. And just to put the mere size of Ontario in perspective: Its shores take up only a small part of this province, whereas on the US-side it borders no less than three states: Minnesota, Michigan and Wisconsin! It would take me a full week to cycle the Canadian edge of it, my rhythm mainly determined by the limited availability of towns and services. This area is so sparsely populated that I would generally come across only one town a day, usually with a 90-100km interval. To limit the weight of food and water, it makes sense to plan the nightly stops around here. Fair enough, cycling across Canada shouldn’t just be regarded in daily distances: the sheer elevation gain is something to take into account, and in Ontario overall and this section in particular it is aggressive. I had some serious climbs ahead of me, requiring way more energy and muscle power than any Prairie-distance I ever did.
Today was going to be intense, incredibly sweaty and highly demanding… but also stunning! Expect and endless series of high-up views over this stunning piece of lake, regularly interrupted by the lush islands floating inside of Nipigon Bay. Every turn, every downhill holds another great reveal. You’ll be cycling across and alongside Ruby Lake Provincial Park, the Kama Hills, the Rainbow Falls Provincial Park and the Aguasabon Falls & Gorge. You have the option to spend the night in the cute picturesque lake-side village of Schreiber at 91km, proudly advertised to be the home of boxing champion Domenic Filane, or alternatively push forward for another 14km to Terrace Bay. I decided the latter, but first pulled over to have a look at the natural marvel of Aguasabon Falls, located just before the town entry. To my great delight I found a picnic area at its parking lot, with even some tables and toilets. I wasn’t entirely sure if it was legal to camp here, but as I didn’t see a sign that told me not to, I took my chances. I wouldn’t call it necessarily comfortable, with the accountable mosquito-army still loyally on duty to destroy my peace and body. This time I came prepared though: I had purchased a mosquito hat, a vital Ontario fashion-item.
Day 45: Terrace Bay – Marathon
Distance: 87.3km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with shoulder.
Views: Forests, lakes, provincial park, waterfalls.
Water Situation: It’s possible to filter water from Lake Superior and small lakes around. Plan this well, as often you're quite high above Lake Superior. There are shops and gas stations only at the beginning and end point: Terrace Bay and Marathon.
Food Situation: Terrace Bay has a grocery stores, gas stations and some eateries. Then nothing until Marathon, which is a 4km detour one-way (down a steep hill).
(Sun, wind from all sides)
I woke up timely at the Aguasabon Falls & Gorge picnic area, as I figured tourists would start pulling in shortly (which was indeed the case). An early start for a rather short day, so I decided to hang out in Terrace Bay a little longer, simply to grant myself a few moments away from the mosquito tornado closely following my very step from dusk ‘till dawn. Until Marathon there’s no space to be inside, except perhaps the Coach House Motel, one of Terry Fox’s last stops on his brave endeavour. I pulled over out of cultural interest, and got promptly treated on a free cup of coffee.
Once again, you’re in for one dream of a ride today, passing Prairie River Mouth Provincial Nature Reserve as well as Neys Provincial Park. The panoramas are just out of this world. I can only imagine Ontario in spring or autumn, when all the bugs are dead and burning in hell where they belong… in that time of the year, it might very well qualify as one of my favorite provinces (don’t let BC and Alberta hear it!). The Lake Superior area has an incredibly diverse flora, including northern hardwoods, conifer trees and colorful northwood wildflowers. Wildlife-wise I could keep an eye out for (but didn’t see any) wolves, porcupines, beavers and lynxes (the latter I actually ended up seeing in New Brunswick, a rare encounter). I did spot a black bear, some moose, woodland caribous, white-tailed deer, foxes, great blue herons, bald eagles and turtles… so many turtles. Mostly gruesomely crushed and spread out over the road, but still.
I wasn’t sure if I’d stop in Marathon, as it was 4km one-way off the road, down a huge hill which I’d had to backtrack upwards again first thing in the morning. Besides that, I had already seen the real Marathon. Yeah, the one in Greece, where the actual sport is named after. You know, when messenger Pheidippides ran from Marathon to Athens to announce the Athenian victory over the Persians at the Battle of Marathon (490BC)… history class, people! Yet, there was one reason for me to go: Hector and Janet, the admirable retired cycle-couple who I had met in the Prairies, were down there. I had randomly caught them a second time, when I was driving around Thunder Bay with my hosts Arthur and Mel… this caused so much joy, that I’d now make it intentional. As the evening proceeded, they invited me to camp out on their hotel floor, which is by all means a great upgrade from a random wild-camp spot I had otherwise in mind. These are people worth sticking around for, a desire I’d commit to for the entire length of Lake Superior.
Distance: 87.3km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with shoulder.
Views: Forests, lakes, provincial park, waterfalls.
Water Situation: It’s possible to filter water from Lake Superior and small lakes around. Plan this well, as often you're quite high above Lake Superior. There are shops and gas stations only at the beginning and end point: Terrace Bay and Marathon.
Food Situation: Terrace Bay has a grocery stores, gas stations and some eateries. Then nothing until Marathon, which is a 4km detour one-way (down a steep hill).
(Sun, wind from all sides)
I woke up timely at the Aguasabon Falls & Gorge picnic area, as I figured tourists would start pulling in shortly (which was indeed the case). An early start for a rather short day, so I decided to hang out in Terrace Bay a little longer, simply to grant myself a few moments away from the mosquito tornado closely following my very step from dusk ‘till dawn. Until Marathon there’s no space to be inside, except perhaps the Coach House Motel, one of Terry Fox’s last stops on his brave endeavour. I pulled over out of cultural interest, and got promptly treated on a free cup of coffee.
Once again, you’re in for one dream of a ride today, passing Prairie River Mouth Provincial Nature Reserve as well as Neys Provincial Park. The panoramas are just out of this world. I can only imagine Ontario in spring or autumn, when all the bugs are dead and burning in hell where they belong… in that time of the year, it might very well qualify as one of my favorite provinces (don’t let BC and Alberta hear it!). The Lake Superior area has an incredibly diverse flora, including northern hardwoods, conifer trees and colorful northwood wildflowers. Wildlife-wise I could keep an eye out for (but didn’t see any) wolves, porcupines, beavers and lynxes (the latter I actually ended up seeing in New Brunswick, a rare encounter). I did spot a black bear, some moose, woodland caribous, white-tailed deer, foxes, great blue herons, bald eagles and turtles… so many turtles. Mostly gruesomely crushed and spread out over the road, but still.
I wasn’t sure if I’d stop in Marathon, as it was 4km one-way off the road, down a huge hill which I’d had to backtrack upwards again first thing in the morning. Besides that, I had already seen the real Marathon. Yeah, the one in Greece, where the actual sport is named after. You know, when messenger Pheidippides ran from Marathon to Athens to announce the Athenian victory over the Persians at the Battle of Marathon (490BC)… history class, people! Yet, there was one reason for me to go: Hector and Janet, the admirable retired cycle-couple who I had met in the Prairies, were down there. I had randomly caught them a second time, when I was driving around Thunder Bay with my hosts Arthur and Mel… this caused so much joy, that I’d now make it intentional. As the evening proceeded, they invited me to camp out on their hotel floor, which is by all means a great upgrade from a random wild-camp spot I had otherwise in mind. These are people worth sticking around for, a desire I’d commit to for the entire length of Lake Superior.
Day 46: Marathon – White River
Distance: 98.2km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with narrow shoulder.
Views: Forests, lakes, provincial park.
Water Situation: It’s possible to filter water from Lake Superior and small lakes around. Plan this well, as often you're quite high above Lake Superior. There are shops in Marathon, Mobert and White River.
Food Situation: Marathon is a well-serviced town with several supermarkets and many eateries. Then there’s one restaurant 50km after Marathon. Mobert has a small shop and liquor store. White River has an expensive grocery store, as well as some eateries and fast food chains.
(Sun, headwind)
A comfortable night, a refreshing shower… and an early alarm! Yikes, I suddenly got confronted with the daily routine of the average long-distance cyclist, who are generally early risers. Not me, not as a cyclist nor a hiker. It can be called a miracle if I ever leave before 10-11’ish in the morning, I rather have a slower start and keep going after dark when it’s quiet and peaceful. Even today, rising early with my new companions, I didn’t give in: while they took off, I proceeded with my early morning in the warm and mosquito-free comfort of the Tim Hortons, a pilar of Canadian society. I figured I’d catch up with them later, as we all agreed to camp out at the next proper village up: White River, only 98km down the road.
I did catch up shortly, not only with them, but also with a new addition to the club: two Canadian Frenchies who where cycling from Vancouver back to Quebec, as bien sûr, that’s where Canada ends for them. The French approach. I must say, I’ve gotten used to cycling alone by now, stimulated by the beat of pumping music (happy hardcore turned out to be highly effective) and I was rather unwilling to give up that freedom… yet, I did enjoy the casual conversations (in French of course) in the open, quiet lands, and not to mention the slipstreams in a sequence of continuous headwind. As the French boys and I had about the same speed, we stuck together today. A day of undeniable natural beauty, as we have gotten used to by now in Ontario, including the welcome lake here and there to rinse the sweat off (White Lake Provincial Park).
The five of us reconnected in White River, a small town with one claim to fame: Winnie The Pooh. ‘T is true, the world’s most famous bear is indeed from here. It was, however, a black bear, and White River didn’t do him any favours: the poor animal was captured after his mother got shot and killed, and then sold forward to Lieutenant Harry Colebourn from Winnipeg, who was on his way to England to serve in WWI and fancied some exotic pet. He named him Winnie, after his hometown, and left him to live in captivity in the London Zoo once he was called to the battlefields of France. It was there that the 5-year-old Christopher Robin Milne saw Winnie for the first time, upon which he renamed his own stuffed bear “Winnie the Pooh”. His father, the writer A.A. Ailne, turned it into the timeless story books entire generations still read and treasure.
Distance: 98.2km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with narrow shoulder.
Views: Forests, lakes, provincial park.
Water Situation: It’s possible to filter water from Lake Superior and small lakes around. Plan this well, as often you're quite high above Lake Superior. There are shops in Marathon, Mobert and White River.
Food Situation: Marathon is a well-serviced town with several supermarkets and many eateries. Then there’s one restaurant 50km after Marathon. Mobert has a small shop and liquor store. White River has an expensive grocery store, as well as some eateries and fast food chains.
(Sun, headwind)
A comfortable night, a refreshing shower… and an early alarm! Yikes, I suddenly got confronted with the daily routine of the average long-distance cyclist, who are generally early risers. Not me, not as a cyclist nor a hiker. It can be called a miracle if I ever leave before 10-11’ish in the morning, I rather have a slower start and keep going after dark when it’s quiet and peaceful. Even today, rising early with my new companions, I didn’t give in: while they took off, I proceeded with my early morning in the warm and mosquito-free comfort of the Tim Hortons, a pilar of Canadian society. I figured I’d catch up with them later, as we all agreed to camp out at the next proper village up: White River, only 98km down the road.
I did catch up shortly, not only with them, but also with a new addition to the club: two Canadian Frenchies who where cycling from Vancouver back to Quebec, as bien sûr, that’s where Canada ends for them. The French approach. I must say, I’ve gotten used to cycling alone by now, stimulated by the beat of pumping music (happy hardcore turned out to be highly effective) and I was rather unwilling to give up that freedom… yet, I did enjoy the casual conversations (in French of course) in the open, quiet lands, and not to mention the slipstreams in a sequence of continuous headwind. As the French boys and I had about the same speed, we stuck together today. A day of undeniable natural beauty, as we have gotten used to by now in Ontario, including the welcome lake here and there to rinse the sweat off (White Lake Provincial Park).
The five of us reconnected in White River, a small town with one claim to fame: Winnie The Pooh. ‘T is true, the world’s most famous bear is indeed from here. It was, however, a black bear, and White River didn’t do him any favours: the poor animal was captured after his mother got shot and killed, and then sold forward to Lieutenant Harry Colebourn from Winnipeg, who was on his way to England to serve in WWI and fancied some exotic pet. He named him Winnie, after his hometown, and left him to live in captivity in the London Zoo once he was called to the battlefields of France. It was there that the 5-year-old Christopher Robin Milne saw Winnie for the first time, upon which he renamed his own stuffed bear “Winnie the Pooh”. His father, the writer A.A. Ailne, turned it into the timeless story books entire generations still read and treasure.
Day 47: White River – Wawa
Distance: 100.8km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with narrow shoulder. Sometimes the shoulder disappears.
Views: Forests, lakes, provincial park.
Water Situation: It’s possible to filter water from Lake Superior and small lakes around. Plan this well, as often you're quite high above Lake Superior. Otherwise your only options are knocking on the doors of the few houses along the way or pulling over at some of the motels for a refill, as shops are only existent at the beginning and end of the day.
Food Situation: White River has an expensive grocery store, as well as some eateries and fast food chains. There is nothing along the way, besides some motel-restaurants which might or might not be open. Your next option is the well-serviced town of Wawa.
(Sun, headwind)
We kind of hit the wild-camping-jackpot in White River. For a reason unknown, there was a huge circus tent outside of the tourist centre, and the teenager they allowed to run the place “unofficially” allowed us to camp right under it (overall, the entire park behind the Winnie the Pooh Memorial is a free public campground). Not a bad set-up, considering rain was potentially on our way. At 8AM the entire traveling cycling circus was up, minus one. You may guess who that is. I figured everyone would just be on their merry way once I surfaced, but no, everyone was still hanging around, waiting for your blogger. Sure, let’s do another group-ride today, why not. I guess I can be social. We had about 100km on our hands and faced, once again, headwind… but at least the hills became more gradual on this stretch. They were ever-present, as we’re still in Ontario for god’s sake, but they degraded in strenuousness.
Otherwise, same old same old: Breathtaking scenery, a provincial park to cross (the Obatanga Provincial Park this time), a battalion of mosquitoes and black flies omni-present. Keep in mind that there are zero services the entire day right until Wawa, which is a former gold and iron ore mining town where you’ll likely spend the night. It’s easy to know when you’re getting close: just look out for the giant goose statue looking out from over a rock. Why, I hear you rightfully ask. The unusual town name “Wawa” is derived from the indigenous Ojibwe word “wewe”, which means wild goose. Aha! The town is inhabited by one very active Warm Shower host, who created a fully-serviced and themed Warm-Shower-Campground right in her backyard. Everyone seems to be welcome, simultaneously. While my cycling folks all pitched their tents, I just hung around for the wine… just enough to drink away The Netherlands’ loss in the World Cup that I just witnessed in the local rundown bar (not ice hockey, soccer is our sport). My cycling buddy from Vancouver Island had rented a car and drove down here to Wawa (of all places) to support me en-route for a couple of days, and he had granted me some hotel-room-luxury.
Distance: 100.8km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with narrow shoulder. Sometimes the shoulder disappears.
Views: Forests, lakes, provincial park.
Water Situation: It’s possible to filter water from Lake Superior and small lakes around. Plan this well, as often you're quite high above Lake Superior. Otherwise your only options are knocking on the doors of the few houses along the way or pulling over at some of the motels for a refill, as shops are only existent at the beginning and end of the day.
Food Situation: White River has an expensive grocery store, as well as some eateries and fast food chains. There is nothing along the way, besides some motel-restaurants which might or might not be open. Your next option is the well-serviced town of Wawa.
(Sun, headwind)
We kind of hit the wild-camping-jackpot in White River. For a reason unknown, there was a huge circus tent outside of the tourist centre, and the teenager they allowed to run the place “unofficially” allowed us to camp right under it (overall, the entire park behind the Winnie the Pooh Memorial is a free public campground). Not a bad set-up, considering rain was potentially on our way. At 8AM the entire traveling cycling circus was up, minus one. You may guess who that is. I figured everyone would just be on their merry way once I surfaced, but no, everyone was still hanging around, waiting for your blogger. Sure, let’s do another group-ride today, why not. I guess I can be social. We had about 100km on our hands and faced, once again, headwind… but at least the hills became more gradual on this stretch. They were ever-present, as we’re still in Ontario for god’s sake, but they degraded in strenuousness.
Otherwise, same old same old: Breathtaking scenery, a provincial park to cross (the Obatanga Provincial Park this time), a battalion of mosquitoes and black flies omni-present. Keep in mind that there are zero services the entire day right until Wawa, which is a former gold and iron ore mining town where you’ll likely spend the night. It’s easy to know when you’re getting close: just look out for the giant goose statue looking out from over a rock. Why, I hear you rightfully ask. The unusual town name “Wawa” is derived from the indigenous Ojibwe word “wewe”, which means wild goose. Aha! The town is inhabited by one very active Warm Shower host, who created a fully-serviced and themed Warm-Shower-Campground right in her backyard. Everyone seems to be welcome, simultaneously. While my cycling folks all pitched their tents, I just hung around for the wine… just enough to drink away The Netherlands’ loss in the World Cup that I just witnessed in the local rundown bar (not ice hockey, soccer is our sport). My cycling buddy from Vancouver Island had rented a car and drove down here to Wawa (of all places) to support me en-route for a couple of days, and he had granted me some hotel-room-luxury.
Day 48: Wawa – Deadman’s Cove
Distance: 146.2km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with narrow shoulder. Sometimes the shoulder disappears entirely.
Views: Forests, lakes, provincial park, beaches.
Water Situation: It’s possible to filter water from Lake Superior and small lakes around. Plan this well, as often you're quite high above Lake Superior. You can also fill your bottle at the Agawa Bay Visitor Centre.
Food Situation: Plan your groceries well: Wawa will be the last town with supermarkets or services for a whooping 160km.
(Sun, headwind again)
Whenever I told people about my little project of cycling across Canada, the first question is always if I am being sponsored or supported. Somehow it is assumed that I have some support vehicle or an entire crew following me, making sure I get through this sporty endeavour. Wow yeah, can you imagine that? Comfortable accommodations to recover in, food being provided at your beck and call, mechanical support service and maybe even a sports massage here and there? Nah, it’s just me, untrained and uninformed, just figuring shit out as I go, camping in ditches and spooning an unholy amount of peanut butter straight out of a jar for cheap and easy calories. Until today! For two days I have the luxury of an actual 1-man-team driving behind me, pulling over at rest stops with delicious food and snacks and rolling down the window to cheer me on. Really the best-case-scenario for a heavy day like this, both in distance, headwind and sheer elevation gain. Boy, did I have some brutal climbs ahead of me!
In all cases, the effort came with rewards. From Michipicoten Post Provincial Park, a series of heavenly patches of Lake Superior Provincial Park to the dreamy viewpoints over Rowe Island… sigh. My favorite stops were probably the Old Woman Bay, named after the shape of an old woman’s face in one of its cliffs, and Agawa Bay, which visitor centre also hosts a small, free museum.
Distance: 146.2km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with narrow shoulder. Sometimes the shoulder disappears entirely.
Views: Forests, lakes, provincial park, beaches.
Water Situation: It’s possible to filter water from Lake Superior and small lakes around. Plan this well, as often you're quite high above Lake Superior. You can also fill your bottle at the Agawa Bay Visitor Centre.
Food Situation: Plan your groceries well: Wawa will be the last town with supermarkets or services for a whooping 160km.
(Sun, headwind again)
Whenever I told people about my little project of cycling across Canada, the first question is always if I am being sponsored or supported. Somehow it is assumed that I have some support vehicle or an entire crew following me, making sure I get through this sporty endeavour. Wow yeah, can you imagine that? Comfortable accommodations to recover in, food being provided at your beck and call, mechanical support service and maybe even a sports massage here and there? Nah, it’s just me, untrained and uninformed, just figuring shit out as I go, camping in ditches and spooning an unholy amount of peanut butter straight out of a jar for cheap and easy calories. Until today! For two days I have the luxury of an actual 1-man-team driving behind me, pulling over at rest stops with delicious food and snacks and rolling down the window to cheer me on. Really the best-case-scenario for a heavy day like this, both in distance, headwind and sheer elevation gain. Boy, did I have some brutal climbs ahead of me!
In all cases, the effort came with rewards. From Michipicoten Post Provincial Park, a series of heavenly patches of Lake Superior Provincial Park to the dreamy viewpoints over Rowe Island… sigh. My favorite stops were probably the Old Woman Bay, named after the shape of an old woman’s face in one of its cliffs, and Agawa Bay, which visitor centre also hosts a small, free museum.
I kept going and going and going, with the goal to reach Deadman’s Cove where I was invited to camp at a Warm Shower’s host property (while he was absent). Yet, there was no way. The mosquito infestation had reached the pre-Thunder-Bay-intensity, a situation of downright insanity. It was so bad that having the door open for 3 seconds forced us to drive up and down the road in top speed with the windows open, just to let the air flow push thousands of them out… and still we would smash at least 50 against the dashboard and windows. Nobody in his sane mind would go out there and peacefully set up a tent. You’d probably jump off the cliff before you could even connect your tent poles… maybe that’s why this place is called Deadman’s Cove? Nope, after 146.2km of unholy elevation gain, Stephanie was sleeping cramped up inside of a car, as there was absolutely nothing else around. Everything hurt, I couldn’t possibly be more uncomfortable, I was dripping sweat and at around 4AM I woke up nearly choking as we were close to running out of oxygen. Ontario has no chill.
Day 49: Deadman’s Cove – Sault Ste. Marie
Distance: 94km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with narrow shoulder. Sometimes the shoulder disappears entirely.
Views: Forests, lakes, provincial park, city.
Water Situation: It’s possible to filter water from Lake Superior and small lakes around. Plan this well, as often you're quite high above Lake Superior. You’ll find regular gas stations and grocery stores along the way.
Food Situation: The first 12km after Deadman’s Cove there is nothing, but then there’s a small grocery shop or gas station with an average 20km-interval. Sault Ste. Marie is a big city with all services.
(Sun, fierce headwind)
Completely destroyed by last’s day and night, I was in for a homerun to Sault Ste. Marie. A wrap-up of the Canadian Lake Superior section! What a lake, what a ride! It definitely came with incredible challenges of various sorts, but I wouldn’t believe a place could be this beautiful if it wasn’t for the irreversible photo proof I can enjoy to look back on. As yesterday I went all-out, today should be easy, in theory. Less distance, all flat, besides one hill about 25km before reaching the city… but well, still headwind. I really have a hard time grasping the science behind this: I’m literally cycling in a half-circular route around the northern part of Lake Superior, constantly changing direction… but still, somehow, the wind is 6/7 days right on my nose. It’s honestly starting to feel personal.
Day 49: Deadman’s Cove – Sault Ste. Marie
Distance: 94km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with narrow shoulder. Sometimes the shoulder disappears entirely.
Views: Forests, lakes, provincial park, city.
Water Situation: It’s possible to filter water from Lake Superior and small lakes around. Plan this well, as often you're quite high above Lake Superior. You’ll find regular gas stations and grocery stores along the way.
Food Situation: The first 12km after Deadman’s Cove there is nothing, but then there’s a small grocery shop or gas station with an average 20km-interval. Sault Ste. Marie is a big city with all services.
(Sun, fierce headwind)
Completely destroyed by last’s day and night, I was in for a homerun to Sault Ste. Marie. A wrap-up of the Canadian Lake Superior section! What a lake, what a ride! It definitely came with incredible challenges of various sorts, but I wouldn’t believe a place could be this beautiful if it wasn’t for the irreversible photo proof I can enjoy to look back on. As yesterday I went all-out, today should be easy, in theory. Less distance, all flat, besides one hill about 25km before reaching the city… but well, still headwind. I really have a hard time grasping the science behind this: I’m literally cycling in a half-circular route around the northern part of Lake Superior, constantly changing direction… but still, somehow, the wind is 6/7 days right on my nose. It’s honestly starting to feel personal.
The natural glory is going strong until the Pancake Bay Provincial Park and the Batchawana Bay Provincial Park. I figured the first one would boast limestone pancake-shaped rock formations, just like the Pancake Rocks (Punakaiki) I visited in New Zealand… but I didn’t see anything of the sorts. A quick google later I learned that the name was in fact derived from the so-called “voyageurs” who would camp out here in the height of the fur trade. Allegedly, by the time they reached the bay from Fort William, their food supplies were so low, they’d bake pancakes for dinner. Seems a bit far-fetched to be honest, but whatever you say bro. The beauty lasts as long as the shore section (Havilland), after which the scenery becomes rather bland. It’s done with the natural fun, you’re entering city territory. I had heard positive reviews about Sault Ste. Marie (named after the rapids at the Saint Mary’s River), but I honestly wasn’t impressed. That’s on me, I guess. As a European, I’m used to cities that are dubbed with century-old history, ancient architecture and profound cultural layers… and then well, in the former colonies that sprouted out into newer nations (I name a Canada, but also a US, an Australia or a New Zealand) everything man-made is just equally new. Understandably so. I guess I need to come back in a century or two to appreciate it better. Alas, it’s not what I came to Canada for. I’m here for the swipe-me-right-off-my-socks natural extravaganza and man, is Canada overdelivering!
After Lake Superior: 49 days, 5293.6km
After Lake Superior: 49 days, 5293.6km
Quick Budget Fact Overview
Canada Facts
Short History Recap
Ice Age: First humans migrate from Asia. 11th century: Norse establish first known European settlement on Newfoundland island. 1583: Newfoundland England's first overseas colony. 1701: 38 indigenous groups sign peace treaty with France. ’56: Seven Years' War between New France and larger / economically-stronger British colonies. ’63: Treaty of Paris → England acquires all French colonies east of the Mississippi incl. New France (becomes Quebec). ‘74: Quebec Act recognises French language & Roman Catholic religion. ‘76 onwards: Refugees from American War of Independence settle in Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, Quebec & Ontario. 1800s: Immigration from UK. ’37-38: Armed rebellions, dissatisfaction with ruling elites, poverty and social divisions. ’67: British North America Act → unites Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia and New Brunswick in Dominion of Canada. ’85: Canadian Pacific railroad. 1914: WWI → Canada fights on side of England and France. ’39: WWII → Canadian forces in Europe and Atlantic. ’49: Founder member of Nato. ’50: Canada/UN participates in War in Korea. ’65: New flag. ’70: Front de Liberation du Quebec kidnap an English trade official and murder a Quebec minister. ’82: England transfers final legal powers over to Canada. New constitution. ’91: Canadian forces participate in Gulf War. ’92: Canada, US & Mexico finalise North American Free Trade Agreement (Nafta). ’95: Referendum in Quebec rejects independence by a margin of 1%. ’99: Territory of Nunavut created in northern Canada (self-governing region with majority of indigenous population). 2002: Troops in Afghanistan. ’10: Winter Olympics. ’14: Mission to map Arctic seabed, in support of bid to extend territory up to North Pole. ’16: Free trade agreement with EU. ’17: Promised compensation to indigenous people who were kidnapped to be brought up by primarily white middle-class families. New trade deal replacing Nafta.
Canada Facts
- Capital: Ottawa
- Language: English, French
- Population: ± 39 mln (Ottawa: 1.76mln)
- Sq km: ± 9.985 (Montreal: 365)
- Currency: Canadian Dollar ($ - CAD)
- Electricity Outlet: A + B / 120 V / 60 Hz. Check here.
- Country Code Phone: +1
- Emergency Phone: 911
- Visa: Some countries need to apply for a visa, which can be done here or here.The ones that don’t need to apply for a visa waiver, called an ETA, which is a very cheap and fast process.
- Vaccinations: None.
- Climate: The country is so huge, that we’re dealing with several climate zones. The far north has a Tundra Climate (ET). Below that a zone of Subarctic Climate (Dfc), with patches of Dwc and Dsc. The southern stretch along the US border is mainly Humid Continental (Dfb), with patches of Temperate Oceanic (Cfb).
- High season: June-September. Summer is most pleasant due to the harsh climates in the colder seasons.
Short History Recap
Ice Age: First humans migrate from Asia. 11th century: Norse establish first known European settlement on Newfoundland island. 1583: Newfoundland England's first overseas colony. 1701: 38 indigenous groups sign peace treaty with France. ’56: Seven Years' War between New France and larger / economically-stronger British colonies. ’63: Treaty of Paris → England acquires all French colonies east of the Mississippi incl. New France (becomes Quebec). ‘74: Quebec Act recognises French language & Roman Catholic religion. ‘76 onwards: Refugees from American War of Independence settle in Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, Quebec & Ontario. 1800s: Immigration from UK. ’37-38: Armed rebellions, dissatisfaction with ruling elites, poverty and social divisions. ’67: British North America Act → unites Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia and New Brunswick in Dominion of Canada. ’85: Canadian Pacific railroad. 1914: WWI → Canada fights on side of England and France. ’39: WWII → Canadian forces in Europe and Atlantic. ’49: Founder member of Nato. ’50: Canada/UN participates in War in Korea. ’65: New flag. ’70: Front de Liberation du Quebec kidnap an English trade official and murder a Quebec minister. ’82: England transfers final legal powers over to Canada. New constitution. ’91: Canadian forces participate in Gulf War. ’92: Canada, US & Mexico finalise North American Free Trade Agreement (Nafta). ’95: Referendum in Quebec rejects independence by a margin of 1%. ’99: Territory of Nunavut created in northern Canada (self-governing region with majority of indigenous population). 2002: Troops in Afghanistan. ’10: Winter Olympics. ’14: Mission to map Arctic seabed, in support of bid to extend territory up to North Pole. ’16: Free trade agreement with EU. ’17: Promised compensation to indigenous people who were kidnapped to be brought up by primarily white middle-class families. New trade deal replacing Nafta.
Budget Bites
Sleep Cheap
- Main Supermarket Chains Canada: Sobeys, Metro, Walmart, No Frills, Foodland, Maxi, Your Independent Grocer, Real Canadian Superstore, Safeway.
- Local Dishes: Poutine (fries with cheese curds and gravy), Tourtiere (meat pie), Wild Pacific Salmon, Pate Chinois (layered ground beef, cream corn and mashed potato), Alberta Beef, Rappie Pie (grated potatoes pattie with pork fat, sea food and ground meat), Hodge Podge (vegetable/potato stew), Yukon Reindeer, Caraquets (oysters), Nova Scotia / Newfoundland Lobster, Fish and Brewis (hard biscuits mixed with cod or pork), Pealmeal Bacon (broiled lean pork loin), Split Pea Soup (incl. pork), Jiggs Dinner (beef, greens and split pea pudding), Fiddle Heads (cooked rolled fern leaves), Bannock (typical bread), Beavertails (deepfried bread with sweet toppings / Canadian donut), Montreal Bagel (boiled in honeyed water), Trempettes (crispy sweet pancakes), Touton (thick pancake), Cipaille (meat pie), Maple Taffy / Tire d’Erable (maple syrup frozen over snow), Butter Tarts (pastry), Saskatoon Berry Pie, Nanaimo Bars (crumb-custard-chocolate cake), Pouding Chomeur (cake with hot syrup), Cretons (pork spread), Oreilles de Crisses (deepfried pork rinds).
- The Veg Situation: Going veg is not so complicated in Canada, as vegetarianism and veganism is widely accepted. Most supermarkets contain veg products, be it very processed at times. Veg restaurants can be found here.
- National Drink: Ceasar Cocktail (Canadian bloody mary, sometimes with food hanging off of it), beer, wine.
Sleep Cheap
- Hostels / Hotels / Guesthouses: You probably knew already, before even booking your trip, that visiting Canada isn’t cheap. This goes for accommodation as well. Without being paid to say so, I love Booking.com: They have the biggest selection, are transparent about the final price and have an efficient search engine tailored to your specific needs (cheapest first!). If you use it often enough, Genius-discounts are applied. Air BnB is not what it used to be, price-wise, but in Canada they usually offer cheaper stays than in hotels or even hostels. Be mindful of the additional booking and cleaning costs though, as they can really add up. Writer’s Choice: In Ontario I found hosts via shared contacts, as well as via the online networks of Warm Showers and Couchsurfing. Many times I also wild-camped, which is legal on crown land.
- Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost (unless you put a third-world country as homebase), but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate review explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored). The Couchsurfing community in Canada definitely is a rather active one, incl. events organized in most of the cities. If your’re biketouring you can also look into Warm Showers, which is a bikepacking community focussing primarily on 1-night stays.
- Wild Camping: is officially legal in Canada. You can pitch your tent anywhere on crown land and you’ll even be abe to find free camping spots. The WikiCamps App Canada is extremely useful for finding these, with community reviews. If public land is scarce, you can ask permission to camp on someone’s private land. Canadians are very kind and hospitable and will likely allow you to do so. In national and provincial parks camping is only allowed on designated campsites or with a permit, and you’ll have to pay a nightly fee (wild camping in these areas is heavily fined).
Mama Said
Transport
Next?
- Safety: Canada is a very safe country with a low crime rate. Outside of the main cities, I met people who don’t lock their houses or cars. In nature, there are several wide animals to take into account, including black bears, grizzly bears, rattle snakes, coyotes, lynxes and cougars.
- Tap Water: is safe to drink.
- The best credit/debit card for traveling is Wise, as they use the live conversion rates with minimal exchange fees. Wise also has the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. That said, I do find their customer service rather questionable. Revolut is comparable, but they have higher exchange fees in the weekend and less wallet-options. Also, you can only wire money to Revolut in the currency you opened the account with, whereas Wise has IBAN’s from a wide variety of currencies, so you don’t have to pay a double exchange fee. Both Revolut and Wise have the option to open a Canadian Dollar wallet. Most Canadian ATMs charge a fee for cash outs, but card payments are accepted everywhere.
- Simcard: Data is known to be incredibly expensive in Canada, with one of the highest rate-per-gb in the world. Prices are even higher if you buy your SIM at the airport. Therefore, either go to the flagship stores to buy a sim (yes, you also pay seperately for the sim, without anything on it), or simply buy one in supermarkets, post offices, gas stations and even in the Dollarama. You can then add credit or a bundle online or via the app. The brands with the cheapest deals are known to be Lucky Mobile, Chatr, Koodo Mobile and Fido (although still terrible money-worth compared to basically everywhere else in the world). The best network coverage is known to be by Telus, Bell and Rogers. If your phone supports eSims, this might be worth looking into, as it’s in most cases more affordable. I used Lucky Mobile which had the cheapest data packages (sim bought in Dollarama), and noticed I had a similar coverage compared to any of the more expensive brands.
Transport
- Walking: Montreal is a pedestrian friendly city. Yet, as it’s rather big, alternative transport from neighbourhood to neighbourhood might be recommended.
- Cycling: Montreal has 1065km of bicycle lanes. Find a map here. There’s a bikesharing system called BIXI, which charges an unlocking fee and a rate-per-minute.
- Public Transport: Montreal has buses and an efficient metro system. You can pay per ride (incl. 1 transfer to bus) or 2 rides, or get a 3-day, unlimited evening, unlimited weekend or week ticket. Oddly enough, the week ticket runs from Monday to Sunday, so if you buy it on a Sunday it only works one day. The weekend ticket starts Friday 4PM. You can pay at the ticket machines, at the metro desks or get an Opus Card. Buses also sell tickets. Children travel free.
- Taxi / Uber: Canada has taxi apps such as Uber, Lyft and Zoomzoom. Car2Go is a car sharing app.
- Train: Canada has a train network operated by Via Rail, but this is a notoriously expensive option (generally double the bus prices, which are also not cheap). Book as early as possible and buy tickets on Tuesday to save some money. There’s a train line to the suburbs as well, called Exo.
- Car Rental: This is not a cheap endeavour in Canada. However, the best deals can generally be found when the car is picked up from an airport.
- Airport: Montreal Pierre Elliott Trudeau International Airport. Reached by Bus 747 (special ticket needed) runs 24/7.
- Hitchhiking: is relatively safe and easy in Canada, but definitively not common. Don’t bother with the ride-share websites or Facebook groups, as people dare to ask more than the bus and even train tickets. More info on hitchhiking in and out of Montreal can be found on Hitchwiki.
Next?
- In Canada: Manitoba.
- International Destinations Close By: United States, Greenland.
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