Nomad Valley Trail
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In an age where every mountain peak has its Instagram tag, imagine stumbling upon a hiking route that exists almost purely in the realm of analog. That, dear reader, is precisely how I stumbled upon the Nomad Valley Trail in the majestic Tian Shan mountains of Kyrgyzstan. While waiting out volatile weather and recuperating my weary feet by the shimmering waves of the Issyk-Kul Lake – a necessary pause after conquering the well-known (and well-documented) Ak-Suu Traverse hike – I found this trail’s faint outline on a quaintly old-fashioned paper map. No blog posts, no forum discussions, no weathered explorers sharing their tales. Just a name, a dotted line, and an information vacuum so profound it felt like an invitation. I looked down at my feet, its blisters slowly healing, and up at the sky, the black rain clouds gradually subsiding… You know what, let’s just do it. Alone, of course, and in 2 days instead of the suggested 4.
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Base: Barskoon / Tamga
For those eyeing the rugged allure of the Nomad Valley Trail, your initial foray into this natural escapade will likely begin from what one might generously call a 'hub': either the unassuming town of Barskoon or the even more spartan village of Tamga. Barskoon, while offering little more overt excitement than a tucked-away statue of Lenin, serves as the most functional jumping-off point, as it’s located right on the road disappearing into the mountains. Personally, I chose Tamga, an even smaller settlement, consisting of little more than a handful of dirt roads that meander through its quiet existence. Tamga boasts one significant advantage over Barskoon though: its closer proximity to the Issyk-Kul Lake. This immense body of water is the world's 2nd largest saline lake by surface area and the 10th largest by volume, providing an unexpected, almost sea-like expanse in the heart of Central Asia. Not bad for an entirely landlocked country.
My Nomad Valley pursuit began far from glorious: With a 5AM rendezvous with an alarm clock and a 5KM sunrise walk down a deserted dirt road, before I got even close to the trail. As taxi apps like Yandex Go are not covering this remote area, and my pre-arranged driver had succumbed to a post-tooth extraction fever, I had no idea how I could even get to the trailhead. There was certainly no sign of any traffic, especially at this hour, and even the “main road” leading to this location was a dusty dirt track with zero action. Help eventually arrived – in the form of a carload of road workers, whose generosity was not of the free-of-charge variety. Indeed, Kyrgyzstan, unlike its more effusively hospitable Kazakh and Uzbek neighbours, seems to subscribe to a 'take, take, take' philosophy rather than the 'give, give, give' one of both their northern and western sidekicks, even if the people themselves are not necessarily unfriendly (at least, some of them). It’s also never enough, no matter how generous your starting bid. The driver itself was a character though, a self-declared Britney Spears superfan, the woman of his dreams, which promptly transformed our bumpy ride into a surprisingly pop-infused mountain disco on wheels. He never heard of this trail. Not one local did. It turns out to be recently embroidered together by some US Aid initiative folks (while they’re bombing the Iranian and Afghani almost-neighbours, the US is out here creating hiking trails in Kyrgyzstan). Upon reaching the trailhead, a mere 10km past the much-hyped, but for me, utterly redundant, Barskoon Waterfalls (11 years of full-time travel tends to cure any hint of waterfall enthusiasm), he eyed the looming mountain pass, shook his head, and signalled, "What are you doing here? Just take a photo and go." He, clearly, was not a hiker. He couldn't grasp the peculiar joy of self-inflicted torture that defines our tribe. Yes, I was going to suffer, and I was going to like it.
For those eyeing the rugged allure of the Nomad Valley Trail, your initial foray into this natural escapade will likely begin from what one might generously call a 'hub': either the unassuming town of Barskoon or the even more spartan village of Tamga. Barskoon, while offering little more overt excitement than a tucked-away statue of Lenin, serves as the most functional jumping-off point, as it’s located right on the road disappearing into the mountains. Personally, I chose Tamga, an even smaller settlement, consisting of little more than a handful of dirt roads that meander through its quiet existence. Tamga boasts one significant advantage over Barskoon though: its closer proximity to the Issyk-Kul Lake. This immense body of water is the world's 2nd largest saline lake by surface area and the 10th largest by volume, providing an unexpected, almost sea-like expanse in the heart of Central Asia. Not bad for an entirely landlocked country.
My Nomad Valley pursuit began far from glorious: With a 5AM rendezvous with an alarm clock and a 5KM sunrise walk down a deserted dirt road, before I got even close to the trail. As taxi apps like Yandex Go are not covering this remote area, and my pre-arranged driver had succumbed to a post-tooth extraction fever, I had no idea how I could even get to the trailhead. There was certainly no sign of any traffic, especially at this hour, and even the “main road” leading to this location was a dusty dirt track with zero action. Help eventually arrived – in the form of a carload of road workers, whose generosity was not of the free-of-charge variety. Indeed, Kyrgyzstan, unlike its more effusively hospitable Kazakh and Uzbek neighbours, seems to subscribe to a 'take, take, take' philosophy rather than the 'give, give, give' one of both their northern and western sidekicks, even if the people themselves are not necessarily unfriendly (at least, some of them). It’s also never enough, no matter how generous your starting bid. The driver itself was a character though, a self-declared Britney Spears superfan, the woman of his dreams, which promptly transformed our bumpy ride into a surprisingly pop-infused mountain disco on wheels. He never heard of this trail. Not one local did. It turns out to be recently embroidered together by some US Aid initiative folks (while they’re bombing the Iranian and Afghani almost-neighbours, the US is out here creating hiking trails in Kyrgyzstan). Upon reaching the trailhead, a mere 10km past the much-hyped, but for me, utterly redundant, Barskoon Waterfalls (11 years of full-time travel tends to cure any hint of waterfall enthusiasm), he eyed the looming mountain pass, shook his head, and signalled, "What are you doing here? Just take a photo and go." He, clearly, was not a hiker. He couldn't grasp the peculiar joy of self-inflicted torture that defines our tribe. Yes, I was going to suffer, and I was going to like it.
Day 1: Trailhead Barskoon - Dunguromo Lake
Distance: 24km (+5km Tamga)
Elevation Gain: 1501m ascent, 826m descent. Highest point: Dunguromo Pass (3773m).
Trail Conditions: Difficult. Mostly no trail or animal trail. The surface is either scree, boulders to climb or swampy grasslands. It’s almost never easy-going. Steep ascend, more mellow descend.
Water Conditions: Alongside river and streams all day through.
River Crossings: You’ll have these the whole day through. There is one bridge at the beginning, but that’s the only one. Most crossings are doable, but there are 2 very heavy and rather sketchy river crossings on the pass, which were quite deep and had a strong current (at least, in spring).
Weather Conditions: Very cloudy. It looked like rain was looming, but it never fell. Sunny at end of day.
Important Remarks: You need private transportation to the trailhead, which is best arranged in advance as the road is pretty much deserted. Hitchhiking probably won't save you money, as you’ll likely be charged the same or more by anyone driving by, as they know your options are limited. On the local map this trail is described as “moderate”, but on a global hiking scale, this section would definitely be rated as “difficult” due to the elevation gain, non-existing trails, heavy terrain and river crossings. The next day is easy, maybe that’s why they thought “difficult+easy=moderate”, but don’t be fooled by that. Attempt this stretch only as a confident and trained hiker.
Camping spot: Overlooking Dunguromo Lake (3400m). Cold, exposed and windy.
GPS: All Trails (an app I have a negative experience with though - Outdoor Active is better) & Wikiloc (slightly better, but sucking up battery).
The introduction to the Nomad Valley Trail begins, rather fittingly, with its most formidable challenge: the ascent of the Dunguromo Pass (3773m). Tucked into the Terskei Ala-Too Mountain Range, its initial appearance was daunting… though I quickly learned that what I thought was the entire climb was merely about 10% of a gruelling 8KM vertical marathon. Forget manicured paths; here, trails range from non-existent to actively hostile – think flooded waterways, treacherous scree, and boulders demanding a full-body scramble, interspersed with sock-soaking swampy grasslands. My usual mountain speed of 4-5 km/hr was reduced to a hard-going 2 km/hr. And then I didn’t even mention the river crossings, a fixed reoccurring element. While one solitary bridge made a brief appearance just after the trailhead, creating a false sense of security, the subsequent multitude of forced plunges proved... character-building. Two in particular, especially perilous in spring's robust currents, ensured a full-on battle with the elements, right down to the utterly sodden underwear. Unwelcome, to say the least.
Distance: 24km (+5km Tamga)
Elevation Gain: 1501m ascent, 826m descent. Highest point: Dunguromo Pass (3773m).
Trail Conditions: Difficult. Mostly no trail or animal trail. The surface is either scree, boulders to climb or swampy grasslands. It’s almost never easy-going. Steep ascend, more mellow descend.
Water Conditions: Alongside river and streams all day through.
River Crossings: You’ll have these the whole day through. There is one bridge at the beginning, but that’s the only one. Most crossings are doable, but there are 2 very heavy and rather sketchy river crossings on the pass, which were quite deep and had a strong current (at least, in spring).
Weather Conditions: Very cloudy. It looked like rain was looming, but it never fell. Sunny at end of day.
Important Remarks: You need private transportation to the trailhead, which is best arranged in advance as the road is pretty much deserted. Hitchhiking probably won't save you money, as you’ll likely be charged the same or more by anyone driving by, as they know your options are limited. On the local map this trail is described as “moderate”, but on a global hiking scale, this section would definitely be rated as “difficult” due to the elevation gain, non-existing trails, heavy terrain and river crossings. The next day is easy, maybe that’s why they thought “difficult+easy=moderate”, but don’t be fooled by that. Attempt this stretch only as a confident and trained hiker.
Camping spot: Overlooking Dunguromo Lake (3400m). Cold, exposed and windy.
GPS: All Trails (an app I have a negative experience with though - Outdoor Active is better) & Wikiloc (slightly better, but sucking up battery).
The introduction to the Nomad Valley Trail begins, rather fittingly, with its most formidable challenge: the ascent of the Dunguromo Pass (3773m). Tucked into the Terskei Ala-Too Mountain Range, its initial appearance was daunting… though I quickly learned that what I thought was the entire climb was merely about 10% of a gruelling 8KM vertical marathon. Forget manicured paths; here, trails range from non-existent to actively hostile – think flooded waterways, treacherous scree, and boulders demanding a full-body scramble, interspersed with sock-soaking swampy grasslands. My usual mountain speed of 4-5 km/hr was reduced to a hard-going 2 km/hr. And then I didn’t even mention the river crossings, a fixed reoccurring element. While one solitary bridge made a brief appearance just after the trailhead, creating a false sense of security, the subsequent multitude of forced plunges proved... character-building. Two in particular, especially perilous in spring's robust currents, ensured a full-on battle with the elements, right down to the utterly sodden underwear. Unwelcome, to say the least.
It's worth noting, for those consulting maps, that this stretch is optimistically labelled 'moderate.' I can only surmise that the cartographers applied a unique Kyrgyzstani calculus: 'difficult' (today) plus 'easy' (tomorrow) must, by some mystical conversion, average out to 'moderate’ overall. Let me be unequivocally clear: this is not your typical family-friendly weekend hike in a well-trodden national park, like those in your western home country. Kyrgyzstan’s trails are, by and large, an advanced undertaking, more akin to an extreme obstacle course than a leisurely ramble. What the map describes as 'moderate' would, on a global hiking scale, comfortably earn a 'difficult' rating, thanks to the elevation gains, vanishing trails, and those aforementioned, deeply unpopular river crossings. Yet, if you had no issues with the Ak-Suu Transverse or the shorter Ala-Kul Lake section that forms a part of that, then you can tackle this stretch as well.
Though the scenery was impressive, the summit itself, when it finally (and seemingly never-endingly) arrived, was, to be frank, a bit of an anti-climax. You hardly realise that you’re there. However, the valley beyond held the true aesthetic treasures. The descent, mercifully less steep than its upward counterpart, offered panoramic vistas that gladly redeemed the earlier slog. It was a long, gentle gradient, a welcome reprieve for weary knees and toes, leading me down the altitude I had so slowly gained. Following a sudden right turn at a river confluence, the trail transforms again. What began as another gradual incline surprisingly morphed into a broad dirt road – a peculiar sight so deep in the mountains where traffic seems to be far away, until I later learned it served as a gateway route for nomadic cattle, explaining its flattened accessibility. This section, thankfully, offered far less resistance. As the day began to wane, I encountered the first of two stunning alpine lakes. The initial one, a truly staggering expanse of impossibly vibrant blue, tempted a halt, but the desire to conquer all inclines on Day 1 spurred me onward to the second: Dunguromo Lake, nestled beside the Juuku Pass (you don’t have to climb that one, as the trail backtracks a tad from here). Reaching it as twilight descended, its famed blueness was veiled, unfortunately. The views seemed worth it, but at 3400m, and completely exposed, it was quite clear to me that a freezing cold night was the price to pay.
Though the scenery was impressive, the summit itself, when it finally (and seemingly never-endingly) arrived, was, to be frank, a bit of an anti-climax. You hardly realise that you’re there. However, the valley beyond held the true aesthetic treasures. The descent, mercifully less steep than its upward counterpart, offered panoramic vistas that gladly redeemed the earlier slog. It was a long, gentle gradient, a welcome reprieve for weary knees and toes, leading me down the altitude I had so slowly gained. Following a sudden right turn at a river confluence, the trail transforms again. What began as another gradual incline surprisingly morphed into a broad dirt road – a peculiar sight so deep in the mountains where traffic seems to be far away, until I later learned it served as a gateway route for nomadic cattle, explaining its flattened accessibility. This section, thankfully, offered far less resistance. As the day began to wane, I encountered the first of two stunning alpine lakes. The initial one, a truly staggering expanse of impossibly vibrant blue, tempted a halt, but the desire to conquer all inclines on Day 1 spurred me onward to the second: Dunguromo Lake, nestled beside the Juuku Pass (you don’t have to climb that one, as the trail backtracks a tad from here). Reaching it as twilight descended, its famed blueness was veiled, unfortunately. The views seemed worth it, but at 3400m, and completely exposed, it was quite clear to me that a freezing cold night was the price to pay.
Day 2: Dunguromo Lake - Juuku Valley
Distance: 35.7km (+ 5km walked the next morning)
Elevation Gain: 149m ascent, 1477m descent. Highest point: Dunguromo Lake (3400m).
Trail conditions: Easy. Flat surface, very gradual downhill, well-defined trails of low difficulty.
Water Conditions: You’re alongside a big river and streams the whole day through.
River Crossings: The official trail goes on the right side of the river, which indeed is more interesting to walk. However, the river is very dangerous to cross (at least at spring time). Keep walking until you trace down a privately owned bridge at a yurt camp, of which there are a few.
Weather Conditions: Sunny, heavy wind.
Camping Spot: Forest 5km before the end of the trail.
GPS: All Trails (an app I have a negative experience with though - Outdoor Active is better) & Wikiloc (slightly better, but sucking up battery).
The night was less a period of rest and more a loud symphony of nature’s extremes, with my tent performing a rather vigorous interpretive dance to the relentless wind, accompanied by the somewhat less melodic, though undeniably persistent, neighing of a particularly nervous horse who wouldn’t leave my tent’s side no matter how hard I yelled from inside of it. Not to mention the cold I treated myself on at a 3400m elevation. The brisk dawn demanded a strategic retreat to the clearer, bluer and actually more appealing first lake for my morning coffee. It was here, amidst the tranquil caffeine-fueling sips, that I began to grasp the true essence of the "Nomad Valley" Trail. While slowly waking up I witnessed what felt like an endless convoy of shepherds pass by, each with at least hundreds of sheep and goats in their wake.
I was slightly worried though. As the beginning of today contains a slight backtrack, yesterday I had already witnessed the river crossing that lay ahead of me, from the junction onwards, as the trail continues on the right side of the water and I was on the left. Yet, after a thorough map review and invaluable roadside consultations with the shepherds I learned that also along the left bank a path exists. In fact, more an incredibly defined dirt road instead of a rugged trail, serving as a "shepherd highway." While the 'official' right-side trail promised more challenging topography and interesting scenery, this temporary left-sided course allowed for swift progress, accompanied by frequent, friendly waves to the families living in authentic (non-touristy) yurt camps. A full-on immersion into Kyrgyz rural life. What a difference with yesterday, when I didn’t encounter a single soul out here!
Distance: 35.7km (+ 5km walked the next morning)
Elevation Gain: 149m ascent, 1477m descent. Highest point: Dunguromo Lake (3400m).
Trail conditions: Easy. Flat surface, very gradual downhill, well-defined trails of low difficulty.
Water Conditions: You’re alongside a big river and streams the whole day through.
River Crossings: The official trail goes on the right side of the river, which indeed is more interesting to walk. However, the river is very dangerous to cross (at least at spring time). Keep walking until you trace down a privately owned bridge at a yurt camp, of which there are a few.
Weather Conditions: Sunny, heavy wind.
Camping Spot: Forest 5km before the end of the trail.
GPS: All Trails (an app I have a negative experience with though - Outdoor Active is better) & Wikiloc (slightly better, but sucking up battery).
The night was less a period of rest and more a loud symphony of nature’s extremes, with my tent performing a rather vigorous interpretive dance to the relentless wind, accompanied by the somewhat less melodic, though undeniably persistent, neighing of a particularly nervous horse who wouldn’t leave my tent’s side no matter how hard I yelled from inside of it. Not to mention the cold I treated myself on at a 3400m elevation. The brisk dawn demanded a strategic retreat to the clearer, bluer and actually more appealing first lake for my morning coffee. It was here, amidst the tranquil caffeine-fueling sips, that I began to grasp the true essence of the "Nomad Valley" Trail. While slowly waking up I witnessed what felt like an endless convoy of shepherds pass by, each with at least hundreds of sheep and goats in their wake.
I was slightly worried though. As the beginning of today contains a slight backtrack, yesterday I had already witnessed the river crossing that lay ahead of me, from the junction onwards, as the trail continues on the right side of the water and I was on the left. Yet, after a thorough map review and invaluable roadside consultations with the shepherds I learned that also along the left bank a path exists. In fact, more an incredibly defined dirt road instead of a rugged trail, serving as a "shepherd highway." While the 'official' right-side trail promised more challenging topography and interesting scenery, this temporary left-sided course allowed for swift progress, accompanied by frequent, friendly waves to the families living in authentic (non-touristy) yurt camps. A full-on immersion into Kyrgyz rural life. What a difference with yesterday, when I didn’t encounter a single soul out here!
Adding a rather blustery challenge to the day was an unyielding headwind, transforming the valley into a veritable wind tunnel and necessitating strategic breaks behind any boulder substantial enough to give me a (god damn) break. Post-lunch, I was presented with what I had been scouting out: a little private bridge to rejoin the 'official' trail on the right bank. It was hard to know if I was making the right choice, with no information at hand. I knew at the end of the valley another inevitable crossing was coming up, with the river splitting up in two, but I was unaware on what side the bridge would be… if there would be any at all. The river was steadily growing in size and ferocity. Witnessing even ponies struggle, almost being swept away by its surge, it certainly solidified the wisdom of caution. The thought of a potential 15KM backtrack was a real anxiety driver. However, it diminished after identifying a couple more small rickety-rackety bridges (now duly logged by me on my own GPS recording for the benefit of future trekkers!). Yet, it felt right, as it swapped the wide, dusty and rather uninspiring dirt road for the charm of a proper hiking trail. The valley's terminus presented a final moment of slight panic though, right at the aforementioned river split-up: to the left, a surprisingly substantial bridge, suitable for vehicles; to the right, precisely where my plans lay, a truly wild, unyielding torrent. A classic "oh fuck" moment. However, a short backtrack and a swift hike upstream to a nearby yurt camp unveiled the solution: a perfectly serviceable bridge, confirming safe crossings were, in fact, available from both sides.
Today’s largely flat, gently descending terrain had made for remarkably easy progress, allowing me to cover about 35 kilometers without undue strain. My chosen campsite was a pragmatic choice: a rare, short patch of forest, providing the only true sanctuary from the storm. Here, amidst the company of local cows, who evidently shared my appreciation for a natural windbreak, I found a tranquil spot to replenish energy during a well-deserved night rest.
Today’s largely flat, gently descending terrain had made for remarkably easy progress, allowing me to cover about 35 kilometers without undue strain. My chosen campsite was a pragmatic choice: a rare, short patch of forest, providing the only true sanctuary from the storm. Here, amidst the company of local cows, who evidently shared my appreciation for a natural windbreak, I found a tranquil spot to replenish energy during a well-deserved night rest.
The next day, I still had about 5km to cover (over barren, exposed terrain) to reach the end of the trail. This is in the middle of nowhere though. I was lucky to hitch a random ride out to the main road, but obviously this is not guaranteed. You either have to calculate in a half-day walk back (through interesting scenery), or arrange a driver to pick you up.
Quick Budget Fact Overview
Kyrgyzstan Facts
Short History Recap
8th century: Arab invaders in Central Asia. Islam. 10th-13th centuries: Kyrgyz people to the Tian-Shan. Turkish rule. 1685: Area conquered by the Oirats / Mongol. 1758: Chinese empire. Early 1800s: Uzbek khanate of Kokand. 1876: Russian empire. 1916-17: Anti-Russian rebellion Central Asia repressed. ‘17-23: October Revolution, Civil War. ‘20s/’30s: Soviet land reforms, state-owned farms. Defeats the traditional nomadic life. Members of opposing intelligentsia imprisoned / executed. ’21: Turkestan Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic (ASSR) within Russian Soviet Federated Socialist Republic (RSFSR). ’24: Kara-Kirgiz Autonomous Region. ’36: Kirgiz Soviet Socialist Republic (SSR) becomes republic within USSR. ’90: State of emergency after 100s people are killed in interethnic clashes between Uzbeks and Kyrgyz around Osh. ’91: Kirgizia gets name Kyrgyzstan, independent. ’92: UN. Economic reform program. ’93: Som as currency (formerly Russian rubble). ’98: Suspension death penalty announced. ’99: Troops to free by Islamic militants near Tajik border. 2000: Border deal with China. ’03: Putin opens Russian air base at Kant, near base used by US forces. ’06: President Bakiyev signs new constitution after mass protests demanding resignation: Limits his powers. Government resigns. ’07: Government resigns again. Prime Minister Almaz Atabayev poisoned. ’08: Earthquake kills 65 in Osh. ’09: Closure of US air base, after $2bn in loans / aid from Russia. Nevertheless continued after US pays more than triple of annual rent. Kyrgyzstan allows Russia to establish a 2nd military base. ’10: 200+ killed in clashes between Kyrgyz and Uzbek ethnic communities in Osh and Jalalabad. Referendum: a new constitution reducing the powers of the presidency and turning country into a parliamentary republic. ’14: US air base closed.
Kyrgyzstan Facts
- Capital: Bishkek
- Language: Kyrgyz, Russian
- Population: ± 7.1 mln
- Sq km: ± 199,951
- Currency: Som (с - KGS)
- Electricity Outlet: C+F / 220 V / 50 Hz
- Country Code Phone: +996
- Emergency Phone: 112 general, 101 fire, 102 police, 103 ambulance, (03657) 5-13-87 mountain rescue
- Visa: Many nationalities get 60 days. If your country is not included, an e-visa can be requested here. https://evisa-e-gov.kg/
- Vaccinations: None mandatory, although it’s recommended to get vaccinated against Hepatitus-A and B, Typhoid and Tetanus
- Climate: Arid / Semi-Arid Climate (B). (Subtropical in Fergana Valley, Dry-Continental-Polar in higher Tian Shan Mountains).
- High season: May-August
Short History Recap
8th century: Arab invaders in Central Asia. Islam. 10th-13th centuries: Kyrgyz people to the Tian-Shan. Turkish rule. 1685: Area conquered by the Oirats / Mongol. 1758: Chinese empire. Early 1800s: Uzbek khanate of Kokand. 1876: Russian empire. 1916-17: Anti-Russian rebellion Central Asia repressed. ‘17-23: October Revolution, Civil War. ‘20s/’30s: Soviet land reforms, state-owned farms. Defeats the traditional nomadic life. Members of opposing intelligentsia imprisoned / executed. ’21: Turkestan Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic (ASSR) within Russian Soviet Federated Socialist Republic (RSFSR). ’24: Kara-Kirgiz Autonomous Region. ’36: Kirgiz Soviet Socialist Republic (SSR) becomes republic within USSR. ’90: State of emergency after 100s people are killed in interethnic clashes between Uzbeks and Kyrgyz around Osh. ’91: Kirgizia gets name Kyrgyzstan, independent. ’92: UN. Economic reform program. ’93: Som as currency (formerly Russian rubble). ’98: Suspension death penalty announced. ’99: Troops to free by Islamic militants near Tajik border. 2000: Border deal with China. ’03: Putin opens Russian air base at Kant, near base used by US forces. ’06: President Bakiyev signs new constitution after mass protests demanding resignation: Limits his powers. Government resigns. ’07: Government resigns again. Prime Minister Almaz Atabayev poisoned. ’08: Earthquake kills 65 in Osh. ’09: Closure of US air base, after $2bn in loans / aid from Russia. Nevertheless continued after US pays more than triple of annual rent. Kyrgyzstan allows Russia to establish a 2nd military base. ’10: 200+ killed in clashes between Kyrgyz and Uzbek ethnic communities in Osh and Jalalabad. Referendum: a new constitution reducing the powers of the presidency and turning country into a parliamentary republic. ’14: US air base closed.
Budget Bites
Sleep Cheap
- Main Supermarket Chains in Karakol: Globus, non-chain supermarkets. Besides 1 or 2 few-square-meters shops with an extremely limited connection, Jyrgalan does not have any food provision. You will have to bring everything from Karakol. Along the Ak-Suu Transverse there are no food stops, besides some restaurants and tiny shops in Altyn-Arashan.
- Farmers Markets: Karakol Big Bazaar.
- Local Dishes: Tandyr Nan (traditional bread), Plov/Paloo (signature rice dish), Shashlik (grilled meat skewer), Naryn (boiled horse meat cut into thin strips, with cold noodles and hot broth), Samsa (pastry, standard street food), Kazy (horsemeat sausage), Ashlyam-Fu (cold Kyrgyz soup), Lazy (spicy seasoning), Tash-Kordo (stone or oven grilled lamb), Shurugan (fried onions in ghee with milk), Oromo (Kyrgyz lumpia), Hoshany (minced meat pies, Uyghur cuisine), Kattama (flaky tortillas covered in a crispy crust and fried onions), Zhuurat (sheep or goat yoghurt), Jansak (dessert containing ghee, nuts and honey), Laghman (hand pulled noodle dish), Manti (dumplings), Ganfan (spicy meat and vegetable dish over steamed rice), Beshbarmak (minced mutton poured over hand-cut noodles), Kuurdak (fried marinated meat, onions, and potatoes), Shorpo (Kyrgyz chicken soup), Chechil (braided cheese, bar snack), Dimlama (hearty, stewed vegetables).
- The Veg Situation: Being vegetarian or vegan could be complicated in Kyrgyzstan, as their cuisine is incredibly meat-centered. Eggs and broth can also be found in most dishes. Remaining true to your diet will probably require you mainly cooking your own meals. Veg restaurants (almost all located in Bishkek, a select few in Karakol) can be found here https://www.happycow.net/asia/kyrgyzstan/ . Local veg dishes: Potato Samsa, Lazy, Veg Ashlyan-Fu, Oromo (enquire about meat in ingredients, there are veg versions), Potato Manti, Jansak, Dimlama (sometimes comes with meat, so enquire in advance), Salads (Salat Shirin, with crunchy marinated eggplant, is delicious).
- National Drink: Chalap (fermented dairy drink), Maksym (fermented roasted grain drink, "liquid bread"), Kumys (fermented mare’s milk), Ozo (millet-corn drink, 4-6% alcohol), Dzarma (alcoholic barley drink).
Sleep Cheap
- Hostels / Hotels / Guesthouses: You’ll notice that Kyrgyzstan is quite affordable, also when it comes to accommodation. This excludes the very touristy areas around Altyn-Aryshan and Ala-Kol Lake, where mass tourism sparked some shiny dollar signs in the local’s eyes. Guesthouses and homestays are the main offer, often including a simple but hearty home-made breakfast. The bigger cities also offer hostels, with very cheap beds in shared dormitories. However, be aware that even if you book (and pay for) a private room, like I usually did, they will try to put strangers in your room as soon as they realize you are traveling solo. It always caused an uncomfortable discussion. The reason for this can be found in many homestay-owners not really understanding online booking platforms, and therefore listing a private room while they actually mean a private bed. Another reason might be Kyrgyz culture, and entire families being used to sharing a bedroom with one another, not realizing that foreigners might not appreciate this. After a few of these instances, I always send a message ahead to confirm I truly do have a private room. Keep in mind that almost every accommodation only accepts payment in cash. Writer’s choice: I stayed in a private room in the Hadia Guesthouse, where they indeed tried to put strangers in my room. They also tried to up the rate higher than what I booked it for. In Jyrgalan I stayed in the Beymaral Lodge for 1 night, and camped out 3 in the valley. I camped the whole way through on the Ak-Suu Transverse, minus one over-priced yurt camp.
- Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost (unless you put a third-world country as homebase), but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate request explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored). The Couchsurfing community in Kyrgyzstan is not big, but exists. Cyclists may also use Warm Showers, which is in principal a bikepacking community focussing on 1-night stays.
- Wild Camping: is entirely legal in Kyrgyzstan, about anywhere you go. Avoid private land, obviously.
Mama Said
Transport
Next?
- Safety: Kyrgyzstan is a pretty safe country, with a relatively low crime rate and few reported incidents involving foreign visitors. You’ll notice that the Kyrgyz people mainly keep to themselves, and generally won’t bother you (unless some money can be made).
- Money: While some bigger supermarkets or hotels offer card payments, cash is the way to go in Kyrgyzstan. Many places offer a QR code payment, but this is for Kyrgyz banks only. Always carry sufficient cash money, as ATMs are only available in bigger towns and cities.
- Negotiating: I am sorry to have to conclude it, but where the northern neighbours in Kazakhstan tend to have a culture of giving, Kyrgyzstan has a culture of taking. Money, that is. Always, and always more. The locals definitely aren’t unfriendly, but they do see you as a walking wallet, that’s just how I felt treated after an extended period of time in this country. The reason can be found in Kyrgyzstan actually having quite a high number of tourists in certain areas, while Kazakhstan basically has none outside of the Almaty area. Wherever there are no written down prices, you’ll likely to be charged double. Therefore, inform yourself in advance about certain prices, so you have a base for negotiation. You’ll still be paying more than the locals will, but not as outrageous as their first attempt. It’s tiring, honestly.
- Tap Water: is safe to drink, although not everyone’s stomach is resistant to it. I drank tap water my entire stay without issues. When hiking, I used a filter, as cattle is all around. When cooking, the act of boiling already kills the bacteria.
- The best credit/debit card for traveling is Wise, as they use the live conversion rates with minimal exchange fees. Wise also has the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. Revolut is comparable, but they have higher exchange fees in the weekend and less wallet-options. Also, you can only wire money to Revolut in the currency you opened the account with, whereas Wise has IBAN’s from a wide variety of currencies, so you don’t have to pay a double exchange fee. Some Kyrgyz ATMs charge a fee for cash outs, but not all. Always make sure to carry enough cash around, as this is the most common payment method.
- Simcard: Buying a local simcard, mainly containing unlimited calls and data, is incredibly cheap. The main providers are Megacom, O! and Beeline. I have a relatively good experience with O!, but it didn’t work in the mountains (as I have heard from others, no provider seems to). In Bishkek, the best place to buy a simcard is at the Tsum Aichurok shopping centre, although in the capital you’ll see street vendors all around. Avoid buying it at an elevated rate at the airport. You need to bring an ID. An odd thing is that they’ll ask you to register your simcard with the government within 30 days (for a fee that’s higher than the simcard cost), which can be done at a very chaotic desk at the highest floor of the Tsum Aichurok shopping centre. However, they’ll require a visa for it, which most visitors simply don’t have as 60 visa-free days are granted. As such, you can’t register it. For some people this results in an immediate blockage, some (like me) just don’t have an issue. I honestly didn’t even try, I figure I wait and see what happens (nothing happened). You can just risk it, especially if you’re staying less than a month. If you’re staying longer, just buy a new sim with a different ID.
- Campers among us, I recommend buying all gear you might need in Bishkek, as it gets harder to trace it down outside of the capital. Especially camping gas, which I found at Red Fox (expensive), as well as in Novatex and Alex (cheaper). Expect gear and clothing to have standard western prices, it’s not really affordable whatsoever as it’s the tourist that buy this stuff, not the locals… but at least it’s available.
Transport
- Walking: The central area of Karakol with the main attractions (as far as there are any) is rather compact, and can be explored on foot. Jyrgalan exists of a few dirt roads.
- Cycling: Due to the bad road conditions and complete chaos of traffic, it’s not recommended.
- Public Transport: Buses and minibuses (mashrutkas) are the main way to get around town. Unlike in Kazakhstan, people actually pay for the buses here. You pay the driver directly, preferably in exact cash. It is incredibly cheap, we’re talking about cents. Yandex Maps or 2gis can be used to find public transport connections, Google Maps doesn’t properly work for that purpose in Kyrgyzstan. City buses stop at designated bus stops. Mashrutkas or shared taxis can be hailed down anywhere. For intercity and international travel, head to the northern bus terminal, the Big Bazaar or the tiny southern bus terminal (better to check with a local, as there’s no obvious system). Mashrutkas are the main form of city-to-city transportation, you’ll hardly find big buses. They don’t tend to run on a specific time schedule, but leave when they’re full. For less-visited destinations, you’ll need to take a shared taxi. They also leave when they reached their 5 passengers, which may take a while. In Kyrgyzstan, they will generally charge you a much higher rate if you look like a foreigner, up to more than double (sometimes they even put an extra “0” after the amount). Therefore, I always checked in advance at my guesthouse or with a local what the actual going rate is and prepared that in exact cash, to not be ripped off. Sometimes I still had to pay a bit extra, but at least it was limited.
- Train: Unlike in Kazakhstan, train travel doesn’t really exist here. There is an underdeveloped line from Bishkek to Balykchy (on the eastern shore of Lake Issyk-Kul), but it’s more suitable for the enthusiasts compared to those who just prefer efficient travel.
- Taxi / Uber: Yandex Go is the main taxi app, only available in the bigger cities. It works in Karakol. It is very cheap, and secures you pay the correct rate without the tiring need to always haggle. The fare can also be paid by card or online pay, which allows you to hold on to your cash money.
- Car Rental: is surprisingly expensive in Kyrgyzstan, surpassing the rates that can be found in western countries. The reason for this is that it’s catered to tourists, not to locals, so one will always pay top dollar.
- Hitchhiking: is very common in Kyrgyzstan, especially on trajectories where public transportation is limited. You’ll notice entire families standing on the roadside, pointing down their index finger to the road as to indicate this act. After enquiry with a local tourist office, I was ensured that payment is in these cases not expected and even refused. However, in reality, this seemed to be untrue. I would in most cases persistently be asked for money (and always more), and if they don’t, they have never ever refused it when I offered. Not trying to insult here, simply stating facts of a 1.5 month stay.
Next?
- In Kyrgyzstan: Lake Issyk-Kul, Bishkek, Naryn.
- International Destinations Close By: Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, China.
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