Cross-Canada Cycle Journey 11:
Newfoundland
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Three months on a bicycle (incl. break days). A full season! About 8,600km behind me, a perplexing, unprocessable number that only showed its true meaning once I grabbed that little green bicycle to hit the road to actually do it. And still, I find it hard to believe that I indeed did. Me, by no means a professional cyclist or athlete. Just a normal lass who bought some second-hand bicycle and wondered how far she could drive it across the country, which happened to be the world’s second-biggest. No training, no experience, not even a guarantee if I would actually like it.
Yet, there I stood. Looking up to a sign that welcomed me to Newfoundland & Labrador, the last out of 10 provinces. Goosebumps, surreal. 950km to go. If anything, granting me the needed time to emotionally deal with the forthcoming end of an adventure I don’t ever want to stop.
Yet, there I stood. Looking up to a sign that welcomed me to Newfoundland & Labrador, the last out of 10 provinces. Goosebumps, surreal. 950km to go. If anything, granting me the needed time to emotionally deal with the forthcoming end of an adventure I don’t ever want to stop.
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Day 75: Port aux Basques- St George's
Distance: 132.9km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt in variable quality, predominantly with shoulder. Some parts of the shoulder contain rigs in the middle, which ruins its usefulness for cyclists.
Views: Mountains, sea
Water Situation: There are plenty of houses along the way where you could ask for water. You can buy water in shops en-route as well. You’ll pass several lakes from which you can filter water.
Food Situation: Port Aux Basques has all services. You’ll find small shops around Grand Codroy Provincial Park. There’s an Irving gas station and restaurant 100km after Port aux Basques, which could serve well for dinner.
(Sunny, head- but mainly side-wind, heavy mist in morning and night)
After an unforgiving last day in Nova Scotia’s Cape Breton Island, during which I had to cycle against a hurricane and almost lost my life on the Seal Island Bridge, boarding the Marine Atlantic Ferry felt like a warm embrace. Not only was it warm, dry and comfortable, it turned out to be the most luxurious ferry of my entire Cross-Canada Cycle Endeavour – and boy, have I taken many! Two restaurants, an actual bar, entertainment areas with wide plasma tv-screens broadcasting sports, movies and documentaries… this is hardly BudgetBucketList’ing anymore! Yet, the price was with $40 ($65 with a bicycle) incredibly reasonable for a 7-hour journey, especially considering the overnight journey took the need for accommodation away. The reclining seats are comfy and snug, but as I sleep better horizontal I traced down an area between the back of two seats (cleaner, as untouched by shoes) and set up camp with my air mattress and sleeping bag. I have been wild-camping my whole trip through, tonight I had the deluxe experience out of the elements and with a roof above my head! (Of course, if this a bit too primal for your taste, you can upgrade to a cabin as well). I closed my eyes and when I opened them we were nearing Newfoundland already, land of my newfound victory on wheels. I rushed out to catch a glimpse of the sunrise, its orange glow sharply piercing through thick ethereal ocean haze, offering an exciting slow reveal of my final destination. I’m here, I’m really here. La grande finale de ma “Tour de Canada.” The only acceptable finish line making it an actual Cross-Canada accomplishment, as finishing in Halifax would deny one province in its statement. I was beside myself.
Distance: 132.9km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt in variable quality, predominantly with shoulder. Some parts of the shoulder contain rigs in the middle, which ruins its usefulness for cyclists.
Views: Mountains, sea
Water Situation: There are plenty of houses along the way where you could ask for water. You can buy water in shops en-route as well. You’ll pass several lakes from which you can filter water.
Food Situation: Port Aux Basques has all services. You’ll find small shops around Grand Codroy Provincial Park. There’s an Irving gas station and restaurant 100km after Port aux Basques, which could serve well for dinner.
(Sunny, head- but mainly side-wind, heavy mist in morning and night)
After an unforgiving last day in Nova Scotia’s Cape Breton Island, during which I had to cycle against a hurricane and almost lost my life on the Seal Island Bridge, boarding the Marine Atlantic Ferry felt like a warm embrace. Not only was it warm, dry and comfortable, it turned out to be the most luxurious ferry of my entire Cross-Canada Cycle Endeavour – and boy, have I taken many! Two restaurants, an actual bar, entertainment areas with wide plasma tv-screens broadcasting sports, movies and documentaries… this is hardly BudgetBucketList’ing anymore! Yet, the price was with $40 ($65 with a bicycle) incredibly reasonable for a 7-hour journey, especially considering the overnight journey took the need for accommodation away. The reclining seats are comfy and snug, but as I sleep better horizontal I traced down an area between the back of two seats (cleaner, as untouched by shoes) and set up camp with my air mattress and sleeping bag. I have been wild-camping my whole trip through, tonight I had the deluxe experience out of the elements and with a roof above my head! (Of course, if this a bit too primal for your taste, you can upgrade to a cabin as well). I closed my eyes and when I opened them we were nearing Newfoundland already, land of my newfound victory on wheels. I rushed out to catch a glimpse of the sunrise, its orange glow sharply piercing through thick ethereal ocean haze, offering an exciting slow reveal of my final destination. I’m here, I’m really here. La grande finale de ma “Tour de Canada.” The only acceptable finish line making it an actual Cross-Canada accomplishment, as finishing in Halifax would deny one province in its statement. I was beside myself.
Marine Atlantic Ferry also offers crossings to Argentia, on the eastern side of Newfoundland, from where it’s only a 1-day 130-km ride to St. Johns.
While detaching my bicycle from its secure parking spot, I noticed another biketourer prepping for his departure. He turned out to be quite an impressive individual. At the age of 78, he managed to cycle from Vancouver all the way back to his homebase… Newfoundland. I glanced at his incredible amount of luggage, weighing at least 4x what my pack must weigh, and at his posture, which like me, wasn’t one of a Tour de France rider either. Yet, here he rolled, ready for a homerun. I tip my hat… ehhh, helmet. It puts everything back in perspective. Together we took off to the Tim Hortons, to chase the sleep out of us with sugar and caffeine, while waiting for the stores to open. You see, resupply options or any type of services are extremely scarce on this Newfoundland section. You may count on one option a day, if any, so stocking up properly is required. I knew I was never going to see this man again, as I was facing my self-inflicted aspiration of completing the remaining 950km in 7 days, which leaves me with 135km goals. “Impossible”, according to everyone I spoke to in the last 2 weeks, who provided me with gruelling tales of this province’s mountains and devastating elevation gains. Little did they know that’s the word that fires me up the most: impossible. It transforms an optional lowkey idea to a now-I-must-do-it-to-show-them-and-the-entire-universe-that-they-are-wrong-and-I-am-fucking-right. I’m a complicated individual.
I managed to get off the boat at 7:30AM, but only started to make moves around midday. Leave it to a long-distance cycling or hiking voyage to properly get to know yourself. That’s alright, I have gotten used to midnight driving by now, although daylight is highly preferable for landscapes as goodlooking as these. Good lawd, Newfoundland, what a looker! The thick forests, the green-covered rolling hills and azure lakes glistering under dark, gloomy skies… even though I just came out of a province called Nova Scotia, this landscape of the west reminds me even more prominently of the grandeur of the Scottish Highlands. Both provinces possess indescribable charm and exquisiteness, but somehow these landscapes radiates that raw and barren Scottish spirit, while flawlessly blending in with a hint of Lord of the Rings.
While detaching my bicycle from its secure parking spot, I noticed another biketourer prepping for his departure. He turned out to be quite an impressive individual. At the age of 78, he managed to cycle from Vancouver all the way back to his homebase… Newfoundland. I glanced at his incredible amount of luggage, weighing at least 4x what my pack must weigh, and at his posture, which like me, wasn’t one of a Tour de France rider either. Yet, here he rolled, ready for a homerun. I tip my hat… ehhh, helmet. It puts everything back in perspective. Together we took off to the Tim Hortons, to chase the sleep out of us with sugar and caffeine, while waiting for the stores to open. You see, resupply options or any type of services are extremely scarce on this Newfoundland section. You may count on one option a day, if any, so stocking up properly is required. I knew I was never going to see this man again, as I was facing my self-inflicted aspiration of completing the remaining 950km in 7 days, which leaves me with 135km goals. “Impossible”, according to everyone I spoke to in the last 2 weeks, who provided me with gruelling tales of this province’s mountains and devastating elevation gains. Little did they know that’s the word that fires me up the most: impossible. It transforms an optional lowkey idea to a now-I-must-do-it-to-show-them-and-the-entire-universe-that-they-are-wrong-and-I-am-fucking-right. I’m a complicated individual.
I managed to get off the boat at 7:30AM, but only started to make moves around midday. Leave it to a long-distance cycling or hiking voyage to properly get to know yourself. That’s alright, I have gotten used to midnight driving by now, although daylight is highly preferable for landscapes as goodlooking as these. Good lawd, Newfoundland, what a looker! The thick forests, the green-covered rolling hills and azure lakes glistering under dark, gloomy skies… even though I just came out of a province called Nova Scotia, this landscape of the west reminds me even more prominently of the grandeur of the Scottish Highlands. Both provinces possess indescribable charm and exquisiteness, but somehow these landscapes radiates that raw and barren Scottish spirit, while flawlessly blending in with a hint of Lord of the Rings.
After traversing the Table Mountains, the Mummichog Provincial Park, Codroy Valley and Crabbe's River Provincial Park, I finally halted at some godforgotten gas station, about 100km in. I figured this would be the only picnic table I’d find that day, and that right around dinner time! To top it off, the also offered $3 showers. What a steal, at this sweat level! For dessert I took some puffs of a blunt that has been traveling with me since Manitoba. Wine is my poison, I hardly ever smoke as it inverts my extrovertedness. Especially in Canada, where the incredible strength of it heightens the highest highs. I did cycle another 32km afterwards. My recording even showed a couple of mountains I allegedly conquered. I didn’t notice a thing. For all I know I wasn’t just biking under the stars, they were all around me. I might even have been riding one, who knows at this point.
Day 76: St George's - Deer Lake
Distance: 141.7km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt in variable quality, predominantly with shoulder. Some parts of the shoulder contain rigs in the middle, which ruins its usefulness for cyclists.
Views: Mountains, sea.
Water Situation: You can buy water in shops in the towns mentioned below. Almost no houses along the way and extremely limited natural sources to filter from in the first half.
Food Situation: Corner Brook is the first option. Then Pasadena and Deer Lake.
(Sunny, after 50km tailwind)
It took me a while to realise where I was when I opened my eyes. Ah, that’s right. At some random grassy clearing on a little side road just off the Trans-Canada, a stone’s throw away from the Barachois Pond Provincial Park, at the height of St. George’s. Precisely enough out of the way to prevent myself from accidentally being run over. I had scouted out several spots at midnight, traced down by Google Earth, but it’s always a surprise what your final destination looks like by daylight. My nocturnal location management seems always on point.
After a hearty breakfast I hit the road. On my way to destination nowhere. I had counted on the availability of lakes to filter my water from, but this seemed to be trickier than anticipated, with all lakes around located down deep cliffs. Bad news with the oppressive heat swiftly drying me out, and zero houses along the way with doors to knock on. In a slightly worried state I stood for a time at the roadside, trying to get the drivers’ attention by holding up my water bottle and pointing at it, imitating a drinking movement. No one stopped. As to lessen the distance between me and the next town Corner Brook, 50km down the road, I kept cycling, continuing to draw the attention of anyone passing by. The situation was getting dire, as I was getting lightheaded and felt dehydration manifesting itself in my muscles. Suddenly I noticed someone at the side of the road. A sunburnt pirate-looking man with long wild hair peeking out of a bandana, sitting on top of a motorcycle-with-side-span, in which there sat a dog wearing sunglasses. The type of person your mother would have warned you for, so of course I immediately approached him. Stephen. Stephen The Biker. An outlaw by nature, angry with the status quo but a heart of gold to mismatch his representation. A handful of Harleys at home, yet the side-span his choice of preference to fulfil his outcast-roaming-responsibilities with his loyal companion. Besides water, he also had friendship to offer, continuously reassuring me that he isn’t as scary as he looks like and wouldn’t ever make any dishonourable advances to a young female, even offering phone numbers for references to vouch for his good nature, including his daughter’s. That’s alright, Biker Stephen, my inner compass will do. I know.
Day 76: St George's - Deer Lake
Distance: 141.7km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt in variable quality, predominantly with shoulder. Some parts of the shoulder contain rigs in the middle, which ruins its usefulness for cyclists.
Views: Mountains, sea.
Water Situation: You can buy water in shops in the towns mentioned below. Almost no houses along the way and extremely limited natural sources to filter from in the first half.
Food Situation: Corner Brook is the first option. Then Pasadena and Deer Lake.
(Sunny, after 50km tailwind)
It took me a while to realise where I was when I opened my eyes. Ah, that’s right. At some random grassy clearing on a little side road just off the Trans-Canada, a stone’s throw away from the Barachois Pond Provincial Park, at the height of St. George’s. Precisely enough out of the way to prevent myself from accidentally being run over. I had scouted out several spots at midnight, traced down by Google Earth, but it’s always a surprise what your final destination looks like by daylight. My nocturnal location management seems always on point.
After a hearty breakfast I hit the road. On my way to destination nowhere. I had counted on the availability of lakes to filter my water from, but this seemed to be trickier than anticipated, with all lakes around located down deep cliffs. Bad news with the oppressive heat swiftly drying me out, and zero houses along the way with doors to knock on. In a slightly worried state I stood for a time at the roadside, trying to get the drivers’ attention by holding up my water bottle and pointing at it, imitating a drinking movement. No one stopped. As to lessen the distance between me and the next town Corner Brook, 50km down the road, I kept cycling, continuing to draw the attention of anyone passing by. The situation was getting dire, as I was getting lightheaded and felt dehydration manifesting itself in my muscles. Suddenly I noticed someone at the side of the road. A sunburnt pirate-looking man with long wild hair peeking out of a bandana, sitting on top of a motorcycle-with-side-span, in which there sat a dog wearing sunglasses. The type of person your mother would have warned you for, so of course I immediately approached him. Stephen. Stephen The Biker. An outlaw by nature, angry with the status quo but a heart of gold to mismatch his representation. A handful of Harleys at home, yet the side-span his choice of preference to fulfil his outcast-roaming-responsibilities with his loyal companion. Besides water, he also had friendship to offer, continuously reassuring me that he isn’t as scary as he looks like and wouldn’t ever make any dishonourable advances to a young female, even offering phone numbers for references to vouch for his good nature, including his daughter’s. That’s alright, Biker Stephen, my inner compass will do. I know.
I cycled onwards, through stretched out fields and over hills and mountains. Yet, more gradual ones than people had warned me for. Fair enough, they probably wouldn’t know, as it’s unlikely they actually experienced their own country’s incredible elevation gain from a cyclist’s perspective. Otherwise they would have known that Newfoundland’s landscape is gentler than any other province I cycled through in Canada, with the exception of the Prairies and stretches of Quebec. I reached Corner Brook by lunch time, and washed my clothes in a restaurant’s sink. Yet, I continued onwards to Pasadena, where I met Stephen the Biker for dinner at a campsite. We could have stayed there, free of charge, but I had my daily distance minimum to hit, so I apologized for moving on to the next town up: Deer Lake. Stephen wasn’t going to let a good conversation and a night full of communal drinking slip away, so he agreed to join. We set up camp at a sports field, where conveniently a series of wooden shacks offered private shelters against the elements. On the bike I have been a lone ranger, but an ongoing series of laughs and engaging narratives from a man who uses swearing words as commas, accompanied by a never-ending supply of whiskey coke, is definitely a welcome exception.
Day 77: Deer Lake – Sheppardville
Distance: 101.2km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt in variable quality, predominantly with shoulder. Some parts of the shoulder contain rigs in the middle, which ruins its usefulness for cyclists.
Views: Mountains, forest.
Water Situation: You can buy water in the shops of Deer Lake. There are otherwise almost no houses along the way. There are some natural sources to filter from, incl. the Grand Lake.
Food Situation: Deer Lake is the only town you’ll pass today. Besides that, there’s one gas station with a small shop and restaurant after 45km.
(Cloudy, rainy, cold, strong headwind)
I woke up to the engine of a motorcycle. Coffee service! Stephen the Biker got up early for a lil’ Tim Hortons run, what are Hell’s Angels for? A laidback start of an unforgiving day. Newfoundland turned out to be no exception to Canada’s masterplan to blow its winds from east to west just for this summer, whereas normally west-east is their direction of choice. I should be used to this reality by now, but it never fails to piss me off, right until the last few hundred kilometres of the whole undertaking. It didn’t help that shelter was entirely absent the whole day through, besides a small gas station about halfway, so a small relief every now and then didn’t belong to the options. To fully test my limits my bicycle bag ripped apart. Are you kidding me? You couldn’t hold it up for another three days?!
I continued my journey on foot, while my hands tried to prevent my luggage from plummeting right on the asphalt to be taken away by the storm. I glanced at my phone and saw a missed call from my biker-buddy. What was taking me so long? Fast-forward one hour: my road-devil-sidekick had driven back down to collect my bags for repair, so I could continue on lightweight and luggage-free... a blessing with this level of windforce pushing me backwards. He had also booked a motel at a 3-house-village called Sheppardville, where I was welcome to set up camp (inside) and ride out the stormy night in exchange for a bottle of whisky (which I could buy off the receptionist). Comrades-on-wheels!
“Riding is like writing a beautiful story with every twist of the road”, as they say. Whoever “they” may be.
Distance: 101.2km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt in variable quality, predominantly with shoulder. Some parts of the shoulder contain rigs in the middle, which ruins its usefulness for cyclists.
Views: Mountains, forest.
Water Situation: You can buy water in the shops of Deer Lake. There are otherwise almost no houses along the way. There are some natural sources to filter from, incl. the Grand Lake.
Food Situation: Deer Lake is the only town you’ll pass today. Besides that, there’s one gas station with a small shop and restaurant after 45km.
(Cloudy, rainy, cold, strong headwind)
I woke up to the engine of a motorcycle. Coffee service! Stephen the Biker got up early for a lil’ Tim Hortons run, what are Hell’s Angels for? A laidback start of an unforgiving day. Newfoundland turned out to be no exception to Canada’s masterplan to blow its winds from east to west just for this summer, whereas normally west-east is their direction of choice. I should be used to this reality by now, but it never fails to piss me off, right until the last few hundred kilometres of the whole undertaking. It didn’t help that shelter was entirely absent the whole day through, besides a small gas station about halfway, so a small relief every now and then didn’t belong to the options. To fully test my limits my bicycle bag ripped apart. Are you kidding me? You couldn’t hold it up for another three days?!
I continued my journey on foot, while my hands tried to prevent my luggage from plummeting right on the asphalt to be taken away by the storm. I glanced at my phone and saw a missed call from my biker-buddy. What was taking me so long? Fast-forward one hour: my road-devil-sidekick had driven back down to collect my bags for repair, so I could continue on lightweight and luggage-free... a blessing with this level of windforce pushing me backwards. He had also booked a motel at a 3-house-village called Sheppardville, where I was welcome to set up camp (inside) and ride out the stormy night in exchange for a bottle of whisky (which I could buy off the receptionist). Comrades-on-wheels!
“Riding is like writing a beautiful story with every twist of the road”, as they say. Whoever “they” may be.
Day 78: Sheppardville – Bishop’s Falls
Distance: 135.6km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt in variable quality, predominantly with shoulder. Some parts of the shoulder contain rigs in the middle, which ruins its usefulness for cyclists.
Views: Forests, lakes.
Water Situation: You can buy water in shops in the below mentioned towns. There are a small number of houses along the way, and you’ll find some natural sources to filter from.
Food Situation: Restaurants and gas stations around South Brook. Then nothing until Badger (one gas station). Grand Falls is a bigger town. There are some small grocery shops and a bakery in Bishop’s Falls as well.
(Sunny, headwind)
After a refreshing sleep, I slowly opened my eyes. As I stepped out of the motel room, the sun greeted me with a warm, cheerful glow. I still faced fierce headwind though, but everything seems less pressing after a hefty shot of Vitamin D. The time had come to say goodbye to my rather unusual friend, just like it always does in the fleeting lifestyle of a nomad. Nothing is permanent, a blessing and a curse. Not before I’d join him for a ride though, sitting in the doggie-span as even at 37 I still got that dog in me (a poodle probably, but still).
I noticed that the landscapes had blended into something new. From Lothlorien to a low-key impression of Ontario, but devoid of the mozzie infestation. I’ll take that. In the last couple of days I had cycled passed rugged coastlines (if only for a limited section), vast open spaces, dense boreal forests and century-old rock formations. Central Newfoundland is characterized by four distinct landscapes. The most expansive of these is the Central Newfoundland Forest, with the Trans-Canada Highway traversing right through it. On the rolling hills surrounding the island’s main road you’ll find spruce and fir, alongside with birch and trembling aspen, quivering at the slightest breeze. Unfortunately my limited time didn’t allow me to fully explore all corners of the island, only reached by long dead-end roads adding unavailable days to my cycling odyssey, yet the west-to-east route bending up into the northern section allows for an enticing sneak-peek. The untamed beauty of Newfoundland is simply humbling.
I had heard good reviews about the hospitality of Newfoundlanders, fellow Canadians guaranteeing me the kindest people of the country are residing here. I had a hard time imagining an even higher level of conviviality than I had already experienced in probably one of the, if not the, friendliest nation I had experienced 88 countries in. Like what, they’re gonna give me their car… donate their house keys… throw money at me while passing? Yet, I received a promising preview after knocking on a random person’s door for water. The lady dived straight into her kitchen, preparing me the best lunch of that week before I could even have the time to turn it down. A similar heartwarming welcome I would receive that very evening, when hosted by the outdoorsy Couchsurfers Adam and Patricia in their hometown Bishop’s Falls, a quaint village after the big city of Grand Falls. Adam, a fellow cycle enthusiast, met me down the road, to enjoy the last 20-30k in unity. Upon arrival, a mouthwatering Newfoundland special was swiftly presented: scallops! This province is killing it, seafood-wise and definitely people-wise.
Distance: 135.6km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt in variable quality, predominantly with shoulder. Some parts of the shoulder contain rigs in the middle, which ruins its usefulness for cyclists.
Views: Forests, lakes.
Water Situation: You can buy water in shops in the below mentioned towns. There are a small number of houses along the way, and you’ll find some natural sources to filter from.
Food Situation: Restaurants and gas stations around South Brook. Then nothing until Badger (one gas station). Grand Falls is a bigger town. There are some small grocery shops and a bakery in Bishop’s Falls as well.
(Sunny, headwind)
After a refreshing sleep, I slowly opened my eyes. As I stepped out of the motel room, the sun greeted me with a warm, cheerful glow. I still faced fierce headwind though, but everything seems less pressing after a hefty shot of Vitamin D. The time had come to say goodbye to my rather unusual friend, just like it always does in the fleeting lifestyle of a nomad. Nothing is permanent, a blessing and a curse. Not before I’d join him for a ride though, sitting in the doggie-span as even at 37 I still got that dog in me (a poodle probably, but still).
I noticed that the landscapes had blended into something new. From Lothlorien to a low-key impression of Ontario, but devoid of the mozzie infestation. I’ll take that. In the last couple of days I had cycled passed rugged coastlines (if only for a limited section), vast open spaces, dense boreal forests and century-old rock formations. Central Newfoundland is characterized by four distinct landscapes. The most expansive of these is the Central Newfoundland Forest, with the Trans-Canada Highway traversing right through it. On the rolling hills surrounding the island’s main road you’ll find spruce and fir, alongside with birch and trembling aspen, quivering at the slightest breeze. Unfortunately my limited time didn’t allow me to fully explore all corners of the island, only reached by long dead-end roads adding unavailable days to my cycling odyssey, yet the west-to-east route bending up into the northern section allows for an enticing sneak-peek. The untamed beauty of Newfoundland is simply humbling.
I had heard good reviews about the hospitality of Newfoundlanders, fellow Canadians guaranteeing me the kindest people of the country are residing here. I had a hard time imagining an even higher level of conviviality than I had already experienced in probably one of the, if not the, friendliest nation I had experienced 88 countries in. Like what, they’re gonna give me their car… donate their house keys… throw money at me while passing? Yet, I received a promising preview after knocking on a random person’s door for water. The lady dived straight into her kitchen, preparing me the best lunch of that week before I could even have the time to turn it down. A similar heartwarming welcome I would receive that very evening, when hosted by the outdoorsy Couchsurfers Adam and Patricia in their hometown Bishop’s Falls, a quaint village after the big city of Grand Falls. Adam, a fellow cycle enthusiast, met me down the road, to enjoy the last 20-30k in unity. Upon arrival, a mouthwatering Newfoundland special was swiftly presented: scallops! This province is killing it, seafood-wise and definitely people-wise.
Day 79: Bishop’s Falls - Port Blandford
Distance: 200.9km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt, predominantly with shoulder. Some parts of the shoulder contain rigs in the middle, which ruins its usefulness for cyclists.
Views: Forests, lakes, hills.
Water Situation: You can buy water in shops in the below mentioned towns. There are a small number of houses along the way, and you’ll find some natural sources to filter from.
Food Situation: There are some small grocery shops and a bakery in Bishop’s Falls. Gander is a substantially-sized town. Terra Nova NP has some small campsite- and gas-station-shops with a limited selection. There are 2 gas stations in Port Blandford.
(Sunny, wind from all sides, pure head wind at the last 50km)
Due to my pressing time limit, I was supposed to keep on cycling after one evening in comfort at the home that truly had felt mine for a moment, due to the incredible hospitality of my spontaneous compeers. Yet, in the morning, after a scrumptious breakfast of sweet and crunchy toutons (another Newfoundland special), I discovered I lost my stash of contact lenses. All of them. Right when the one I had in my eye ripped. No biggie, I figured, I just pass by an optician or a general drugstore to grab some new ones. Nah, not in Canada you don’t! Whereas in my home country you just get your eyes tested by a commercial optician and buy the contacts / glasses in the strength you need, in Canada you need a doctor’s prescription. Why? It’s not like you go ahead and buy them if you don’t actually need them, like might be the case with some exciting pills or sedatives. Yet, they were adamant, even after a persuasive monologue outlining my daily usage for the last 20 years. What to do now? In order to cycle, working eyes are the bare minimum requirement.
First of all, time ticked away under this process of problem-solving, so I might as well stay in Bishop Fall’s at this point. I guess I have one day less in St. John’s to disassemble my bike and send it to Europe, I’ll just have to work on that faster. Second of all, I have a local network now. Newfoundlanders, helpful folks. Friends-of-my-new-friends wore contacts too, and as their strength increased they had an old stockpile lying aside they couldn’t use anymore… in exactly my strength. What are the odds? While picking them up, we figured we might as well combine it with a river-swim, sunbathing session and why not, some wine and dinner. And not just any kind of dinner… the dinner of the year, ladies and gentlemen. Once I mentioned Europe’s lobster prices, making it the most decadent food available, unaffordable for commoners, a loud conversation erupted. Lobsters, the most common seafood around, they could’ve been millionaires! Let me tell you, these people are already worth a million bucks, no money needed: the next stop was the local lobster dealer, will one each do? One each! What a feast!
Distance: 200.9km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt, predominantly with shoulder. Some parts of the shoulder contain rigs in the middle, which ruins its usefulness for cyclists.
Views: Forests, lakes, hills.
Water Situation: You can buy water in shops in the below mentioned towns. There are a small number of houses along the way, and you’ll find some natural sources to filter from.
Food Situation: There are some small grocery shops and a bakery in Bishop’s Falls. Gander is a substantially-sized town. Terra Nova NP has some small campsite- and gas-station-shops with a limited selection. There are 2 gas stations in Port Blandford.
(Sunny, wind from all sides, pure head wind at the last 50km)
Due to my pressing time limit, I was supposed to keep on cycling after one evening in comfort at the home that truly had felt mine for a moment, due to the incredible hospitality of my spontaneous compeers. Yet, in the morning, after a scrumptious breakfast of sweet and crunchy toutons (another Newfoundland special), I discovered I lost my stash of contact lenses. All of them. Right when the one I had in my eye ripped. No biggie, I figured, I just pass by an optician or a general drugstore to grab some new ones. Nah, not in Canada you don’t! Whereas in my home country you just get your eyes tested by a commercial optician and buy the contacts / glasses in the strength you need, in Canada you need a doctor’s prescription. Why? It’s not like you go ahead and buy them if you don’t actually need them, like might be the case with some exciting pills or sedatives. Yet, they were adamant, even after a persuasive monologue outlining my daily usage for the last 20 years. What to do now? In order to cycle, working eyes are the bare minimum requirement.
First of all, time ticked away under this process of problem-solving, so I might as well stay in Bishop Fall’s at this point. I guess I have one day less in St. John’s to disassemble my bike and send it to Europe, I’ll just have to work on that faster. Second of all, I have a local network now. Newfoundlanders, helpful folks. Friends-of-my-new-friends wore contacts too, and as their strength increased they had an old stockpile lying aside they couldn’t use anymore… in exactly my strength. What are the odds? While picking them up, we figured we might as well combine it with a river-swim, sunbathing session and why not, some wine and dinner. And not just any kind of dinner… the dinner of the year, ladies and gentlemen. Once I mentioned Europe’s lobster prices, making it the most decadent food available, unaffordable for commoners, a loud conversation erupted. Lobsters, the most common seafood around, they could’ve been millionaires! Let me tell you, these people are already worth a million bucks, no money needed: the next stop was the local lobster dealer, will one each do? One each! What a feast!
An extra day of joy and relaxation properly fired me up. Properly indeed, as I had my mind set on breaking my own daily record of 190km. On the flat Prairies, with tailwind. Today I was about to hit the hilliest section of Newfoundland, unsurprisingly with a fresh blast of headwind. Sounds like a problem for later. In one stretch I sped through the upward section towards the town of Gander, which was the last sign of civilization I’d see in a while. Around sunset I found a shelter between the walls of a deserted gas station at the height of a picturesque riverside area listening to the name of Butts. A normal person would have stopped at Glovertown, just off the Highway 1, but no… I somehow had a thing or two to proof, to nobody in particular. In the pitch dark I kept going and going and going, until the welcome sign to Terra Nova National Park glistened in the glow of my headlight. Cool, the first and only national park out of the 2 Newfoundland National Parks I’d be able to see (the other one is Gros Morne in the west), and I’m knocking it out in the dead of night.
However, upon further inspection, my timing wasn’t as unfortunate as it may seem. Terra Nova turned out to have earned its status as a Dark Sky Preserve, the first one in the province, a title granted by Royal Astronomical Society of Canada which aims to safeguard the nighttime environment. The area of Terra Nova is protected to enhance nocturnal ecosystems, ensuring that birds, bats, insects, and amphibians can thrive in the darkness. The preservation of the night sky is a boon for both the wildlife and zealous stargazers, and this night I’ll be one of them (either a stargazer or local wildlife, maybe both). It is true, the area was sensational, with a ceiling of flickering stars illuminating my midnight record-breaking expedition. Yet, what I mainly recall is the sheer intensification of the hills. Mountains, one can safely say… The darkness of the night may have been a blessing in disguise, concealing the challenging parts that lay ahead and sparing my weary body from an additional source of discouragement. I couldn’t use that right now, I was almost there.
However, upon further inspection, my timing wasn’t as unfortunate as it may seem. Terra Nova turned out to have earned its status as a Dark Sky Preserve, the first one in the province, a title granted by Royal Astronomical Society of Canada which aims to safeguard the nighttime environment. The area of Terra Nova is protected to enhance nocturnal ecosystems, ensuring that birds, bats, insects, and amphibians can thrive in the darkness. The preservation of the night sky is a boon for both the wildlife and zealous stargazers, and this night I’ll be one of them (either a stargazer or local wildlife, maybe both). It is true, the area was sensational, with a ceiling of flickering stars illuminating my midnight record-breaking expedition. Yet, what I mainly recall is the sheer intensification of the hills. Mountains, one can safely say… The darkness of the night may have been a blessing in disguise, concealing the challenging parts that lay ahead and sparing my weary body from an additional source of discouragement. I couldn’t use that right now, I was almost there.
Day 80: Port Blandford – Whitbourne
Distance: 137.5km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt, predominantly with shoulder. All parts of the shoulder contain rigs in the middle, which ruins its usefulness for cyclists.
Views: Hills, cliffs, rocky terrain.
Water Situation: You can buy water in shops in the below mentioned towns. There are a small number of houses along the way, and you’ll find some natural sources to filter from.
Food Situation: There are some gas stations at Port Blandford. Clarenville is the first big town, which has a big supermarket, and you’ll pass a group of 3 gas stations. Then there’s nothing until Whitbourne.
(Sunny, headwind)
Destroyed by yesterday’s effort I slept in until 10AM. I crawled out of my tent cautiously, as I wasn’t entirely sure if the local villagers would be supportive of my decision to set up camp in their teeny-weeny communal garden at the riverside. I shortly forgot that I was in fact in Newfoundland, Realm of the Kind and Gentle. While breaking down my tent, Resident #1 came by to bring a cup of coffee. While packing my bike bags, Resident #2 dropped in to bring me home-baked cupcakes, upon which Resident #3 (who also brought cake) invited me in for a warm shower. I’ll think of these interactions whenever someone tells me the world is a scary and dangerous place.
I witnessed the scenery change again. The Ontario’esque landscapes of thick forests and endless lakes, made place for something more rough and barren. Newfoundland is situated within the so-called Appalachian system, which means that the region’s terrain has been moulded by the movement of continents. This geological history includes numerous episodes of crustal deformation, alternating with extensive phases of erosion and sediment deposition. As a result, the island boasts a diverse array of rocks from various geological periods. The oldest formations, dating back to the Precambrian era, are located in the eastern part of the island. Predominantly, these are folded sedimentary rocks, although some regions feature later volcanic intrusions that have solidified over time. These last days on the Trans-Canada, you'll find yourself pedalling through these rugged terrains, where the absence of trees leaves you exposed to the full force of the wind.
I had my head on arrive, with just one more day separating me from my grand end goal. I passed street signs referring to small settlements with adorable names, such as Little Heart’s Ease, Goobies and Come By Chance. I stopped at none. I just wanted to make distance. Every kilometre today is closer to tomorrow’s triumph. At last, I halted at a bland junction at the height of Whitbourne. There was nothing there but some gas stations and a tourist office, which meant picnic tables for breakfast and a steaming cup of coffee to start the day. Good enough. Today didn’t matter, it’s the promise of tomorrow that truly counts.
Distance: 137.5km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt, predominantly with shoulder. All parts of the shoulder contain rigs in the middle, which ruins its usefulness for cyclists.
Views: Hills, cliffs, rocky terrain.
Water Situation: You can buy water in shops in the below mentioned towns. There are a small number of houses along the way, and you’ll find some natural sources to filter from.
Food Situation: There are some gas stations at Port Blandford. Clarenville is the first big town, which has a big supermarket, and you’ll pass a group of 3 gas stations. Then there’s nothing until Whitbourne.
(Sunny, headwind)
Destroyed by yesterday’s effort I slept in until 10AM. I crawled out of my tent cautiously, as I wasn’t entirely sure if the local villagers would be supportive of my decision to set up camp in their teeny-weeny communal garden at the riverside. I shortly forgot that I was in fact in Newfoundland, Realm of the Kind and Gentle. While breaking down my tent, Resident #1 came by to bring a cup of coffee. While packing my bike bags, Resident #2 dropped in to bring me home-baked cupcakes, upon which Resident #3 (who also brought cake) invited me in for a warm shower. I’ll think of these interactions whenever someone tells me the world is a scary and dangerous place.
I witnessed the scenery change again. The Ontario’esque landscapes of thick forests and endless lakes, made place for something more rough and barren. Newfoundland is situated within the so-called Appalachian system, which means that the region’s terrain has been moulded by the movement of continents. This geological history includes numerous episodes of crustal deformation, alternating with extensive phases of erosion and sediment deposition. As a result, the island boasts a diverse array of rocks from various geological periods. The oldest formations, dating back to the Precambrian era, are located in the eastern part of the island. Predominantly, these are folded sedimentary rocks, although some regions feature later volcanic intrusions that have solidified over time. These last days on the Trans-Canada, you'll find yourself pedalling through these rugged terrains, where the absence of trees leaves you exposed to the full force of the wind.
I had my head on arrive, with just one more day separating me from my grand end goal. I passed street signs referring to small settlements with adorable names, such as Little Heart’s Ease, Goobies and Come By Chance. I stopped at none. I just wanted to make distance. Every kilometre today is closer to tomorrow’s triumph. At last, I halted at a bland junction at the height of Whitbourne. There was nothing there but some gas stations and a tourist office, which meant picnic tables for breakfast and a steaming cup of coffee to start the day. Good enough. Today didn’t matter, it’s the promise of tomorrow that truly counts.
Day 81: Whitbourne – St. Johns
Distance: 105.6km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt, predominantly with shoulder. Parts of the shoulder contain rigs in the middle, which ruins its usefulness for cyclists.
Views: Hills, cliffs, rocky terrain, city.
Water Situation: You can fill your bottle at the tourist office or gas stations in Whitbourne. Then there are very few sources to filter from, and a small number of houses along the way up until you start getting into St. John’s.
Food Situation: The Whitbourne junction has some gas stations and a Tim Hortons. Then there’s nothing until you reach the outskirts of St. John’s.
(Sunny, headwind)
I woke up, my eyes instantly wide open, a surge of anticipation coursing through me. Today was the day. The final chapter of my Canadian on-road narrative, a conclusion of an adventure of a lifetime. I jumped out of my tent and inhaled the air of fresh exhaust fumes, which at this moment in time seemed a magical scent full of promise and excitement. I was ready. Ready to hit the road one last time. In my mind I was already there. At Cape Spear, the easternmost point of Canada and entire continent of North America. The spot where the sun first rises. Intriguingly, it lies closer to Europe than to my starting point in Vancouver Island—or even to Calgary. If the Atlantic were solid, I could cycle back home and still have barely scratched the surface of the distance I had just covered. What an astonishing thought!
I tried to soak up every moment, observe every aspect and feel every element, but focusing proved to be a challenge. Every time I truly grounded and realised where I am and what I’m doing, a surge of emotions would take over, leaving my thoughts in a haze. The road sign of the town “Dildo” brought me straight back, leave it to my childish humour to connect me to the here and now. I snapped a quick selfie and continued onwards, to a place only about 100km down the road but seemingly never approaching. I took a short break at Butter Pot Provincial Park, named after the hill that’s prominently rounded, called a “butter pot.” It’s located on the Avalon Peninsula and forms 1 of the 32 provincial parks in Newfoundland and Labrador. The view was breathtaking, but honestly, it was irrelevant…I could have cycled across a deserted wasteland and I’d still be equally excited.
Distance: 105.6km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt, predominantly with shoulder. Parts of the shoulder contain rigs in the middle, which ruins its usefulness for cyclists.
Views: Hills, cliffs, rocky terrain, city.
Water Situation: You can fill your bottle at the tourist office or gas stations in Whitbourne. Then there are very few sources to filter from, and a small number of houses along the way up until you start getting into St. John’s.
Food Situation: The Whitbourne junction has some gas stations and a Tim Hortons. Then there’s nothing until you reach the outskirts of St. John’s.
(Sunny, headwind)
I woke up, my eyes instantly wide open, a surge of anticipation coursing through me. Today was the day. The final chapter of my Canadian on-road narrative, a conclusion of an adventure of a lifetime. I jumped out of my tent and inhaled the air of fresh exhaust fumes, which at this moment in time seemed a magical scent full of promise and excitement. I was ready. Ready to hit the road one last time. In my mind I was already there. At Cape Spear, the easternmost point of Canada and entire continent of North America. The spot where the sun first rises. Intriguingly, it lies closer to Europe than to my starting point in Vancouver Island—or even to Calgary. If the Atlantic were solid, I could cycle back home and still have barely scratched the surface of the distance I had just covered. What an astonishing thought!
I tried to soak up every moment, observe every aspect and feel every element, but focusing proved to be a challenge. Every time I truly grounded and realised where I am and what I’m doing, a surge of emotions would take over, leaving my thoughts in a haze. The road sign of the town “Dildo” brought me straight back, leave it to my childish humour to connect me to the here and now. I snapped a quick selfie and continued onwards, to a place only about 100km down the road but seemingly never approaching. I took a short break at Butter Pot Provincial Park, named after the hill that’s prominently rounded, called a “butter pot.” It’s located on the Avalon Peninsula and forms 1 of the 32 provincial parks in Newfoundland and Labrador. The view was breathtaking, but honestly, it was irrelevant…I could have cycled across a deserted wasteland and I’d still be equally excited.
The traffic intensified, the sound and frenzy of upcoming civilization hit me like a gentle drumroll. The prelude of a city prepared for my arrival. And boom, there it suddenly was. I cast my eyes down into the valley and saw the city of St. John’s sprawling out in front of me. I felt my eyes warm up with sudden wetness and my heartbeat raise. I’m here, I’m really here. A destination that over time almost seemed mythical, its name repeated like an abstract concept of a meaning yet unknown. I drove in. Into the chaos, the hustle and bustle and commotion. This wasn’t the end though: I had targeted Cape Spear, 20km further down the road.
Of course, the Cross-Canada Cycling Journey wouldn’t be the Cross-Canada Cycling Journey if it didn’t have one last challenge up its sleeve. There are no handouts on this adventure, hard work is the name of the game. Nature let out an evil laugh and suddenly pumped close-to-vertical hills out of the earth, exploring the edges of my capabilities for one last showdown. I sweated, I ploughed and I cursed, but suddenly… silence. There it was, as a sudden revelation. A distant oasis with an irresistible appeal, trembling with profound significance: The Atlantic Ocean. I started off at the Pacific and here I was, 9,500km down the line, approaching its salty soulmate. I had shed a tear here and there today, but now I started full-on balling. Tears were cascading down my cheeks without any sign of slowing down. I kept pushing, pouring every ounce of energy until the great reveal of that final hill, proudly crowned with a gleaming white lighthouse. Cape Spear. I got off my bike for a moment to breathe, and feel, truly feel. This is not a lucid dream, this is really happening.
I closed my eyes for a moment and opened them with dedication. I jumped on my bike and started racing. Racing, like my life depended on it! 20 meters, 19, 18… 3, 2, 1… I didn’t scream, I didn’t cheer in hysterical exhilaration, like I typically do when finishing month-long thru-hikes. I just felt an immersive cloak of calm and humbleness fall over me. I did it, I truly did, I whispered to myself.
I looked at the orange horizon slowly setting, like it had patiently awaited my arrival, softly illuminating the rugged eastern frontier of the country I just made mine.
Of course, the Cross-Canada Cycling Journey wouldn’t be the Cross-Canada Cycling Journey if it didn’t have one last challenge up its sleeve. There are no handouts on this adventure, hard work is the name of the game. Nature let out an evil laugh and suddenly pumped close-to-vertical hills out of the earth, exploring the edges of my capabilities for one last showdown. I sweated, I ploughed and I cursed, but suddenly… silence. There it was, as a sudden revelation. A distant oasis with an irresistible appeal, trembling with profound significance: The Atlantic Ocean. I started off at the Pacific and here I was, 9,500km down the line, approaching its salty soulmate. I had shed a tear here and there today, but now I started full-on balling. Tears were cascading down my cheeks without any sign of slowing down. I kept pushing, pouring every ounce of energy until the great reveal of that final hill, proudly crowned with a gleaming white lighthouse. Cape Spear. I got off my bike for a moment to breathe, and feel, truly feel. This is not a lucid dream, this is really happening.
I closed my eyes for a moment and opened them with dedication. I jumped on my bike and started racing. Racing, like my life depended on it! 20 meters, 19, 18… 3, 2, 1… I didn’t scream, I didn’t cheer in hysterical exhilaration, like I typically do when finishing month-long thru-hikes. I just felt an immersive cloak of calm and humbleness fall over me. I did it, I truly did, I whispered to myself.
I looked at the orange horizon slowly setting, like it had patiently awaited my arrival, softly illuminating the rugged eastern frontier of the country I just made mine.
After Nova Scotia: 81 days, 9485.8km
Quick Budget Fact Overview
Canada Facts
Short History Recap
Ice Age: First humans migrate from Asia. 11th century: Norse establish first known European settlement on Newfoundland island. 1583: Newfoundland England's first overseas colony. 1701: 38 indigenous groups sign peace treaty with France. ’56: Seven Years' War between New France and larger / economically-stronger British colonies. ’63: Treaty of Paris → England acquires all French colonies east of the Mississippi incl. New France (becomes Quebec). ‘74: Quebec Act recognises French language & Roman Catholic religion. ‘76 onwards: Refugees from American War of Independence settle in Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, Quebec & Ontario. 1800s: Immigration from UK. ’37-38: Armed rebellions, dissatisfaction with ruling elites, poverty and social divisions. ’67: British North America Act → unites Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia and New Brunswick in Dominion of Canada. ’85: Canadian Pacific railroad. 1914: WWI → Canada fights on side of England and France. ’39: WWII → Canadian forces in Europe and Atlantic. ’49: Founder member of Nato. ’50: Canada/UN participates in War in Korea. ’65: New flag. ’70: Front de Liberation du Quebec kidnap an English trade official and murder a Quebec minister. ’82: England transfers final legal powers over to Canada. New constitution. ’91: Canadian forces participate in Gulf War. ’92: Canada, US & Mexico finalise North American Free Trade Agreement (Nafta). ’95: Referendum in Quebec rejects independence by a margin of 1%. ’99: Territory of Nunavut created in northern Canada (self-governing region with majority of indigenous population). 2002: Troops in Afghanistan. ’10: Winter Olympics. ’14: Mission to map Arctic seabed, in support of bid to extend territory up to North Pole. ’16: Free trade agreement with EU. ’17: Promised compensation to indigenous people who were kidnapped to be brought up by primarily white middle-class families. New trade deal replacing Nafta.
Canada Facts
- Capital: Ottawa
- Language: English, French
- Population: ± 39 mln (Ottawa: 1.76mln)
- Sq km: ± 9.985 (Montreal: 365)
- Currency: Canadian Dollar ($ - CAD)
- Electricity Outlet: A + B / 120 V / 60 Hz. Check here.
- Country Code Phone: +1
- Emergency Phone: 911
- Visa: Some countries need to apply for a visa, which can be done here or here.The ones that don’t need to apply for a visa waiver, called an ETA, which is a very cheap and fast process.
- Vaccinations: None.
- Climate: The country is so huge, that we’re dealing with several climate zones. The far north has a Tundra Climate (ET). Below that a zone of Subarctic Climate (Dfc), with patches of Dwc and Dsc. The southern stretch along the US border is mainly Humid Continental (Dfb), with patches of Temperate Oceanic (Cfb).
- High season: June-September. Summer is most pleasant due to the harsh climates in the colder seasons.
Short History Recap
Ice Age: First humans migrate from Asia. 11th century: Norse establish first known European settlement on Newfoundland island. 1583: Newfoundland England's first overseas colony. 1701: 38 indigenous groups sign peace treaty with France. ’56: Seven Years' War between New France and larger / economically-stronger British colonies. ’63: Treaty of Paris → England acquires all French colonies east of the Mississippi incl. New France (becomes Quebec). ‘74: Quebec Act recognises French language & Roman Catholic religion. ‘76 onwards: Refugees from American War of Independence settle in Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, Quebec & Ontario. 1800s: Immigration from UK. ’37-38: Armed rebellions, dissatisfaction with ruling elites, poverty and social divisions. ’67: British North America Act → unites Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia and New Brunswick in Dominion of Canada. ’85: Canadian Pacific railroad. 1914: WWI → Canada fights on side of England and France. ’39: WWII → Canadian forces in Europe and Atlantic. ’49: Founder member of Nato. ’50: Canada/UN participates in War in Korea. ’65: New flag. ’70: Front de Liberation du Quebec kidnap an English trade official and murder a Quebec minister. ’82: England transfers final legal powers over to Canada. New constitution. ’91: Canadian forces participate in Gulf War. ’92: Canada, US & Mexico finalise North American Free Trade Agreement (Nafta). ’95: Referendum in Quebec rejects independence by a margin of 1%. ’99: Territory of Nunavut created in northern Canada (self-governing region with majority of indigenous population). 2002: Troops in Afghanistan. ’10: Winter Olympics. ’14: Mission to map Arctic seabed, in support of bid to extend territory up to North Pole. ’16: Free trade agreement with EU. ’17: Promised compensation to indigenous people who were kidnapped to be brought up by primarily white middle-class families. New trade deal replacing Nafta.
Budget Bites
Sleep Cheap
- Main Supermarket Chains Canada: Sobeys, Metro, Walmart, No Frills, Foodland, Maxi, Your Independent Grocer, Real Canadian Superstore, Safeway.
- Local Dishes: Poutine (fries with cheese curds and gravy), Tourtiere (meat pie), Wild Pacific Salmon, Pate Chinois (layered ground beef, cream corn and mashed potato), Alberta Beef, Rappie Pie (grated potatoes pattie with pork fat, sea food and ground meat), Hodge Podge (vegetable/potato stew), Yukon Reindeer, Caraquets (oysters), Nova Scotia / Newfoundland Lobster, Fish and Brewis (hard biscuits mixed with cod or pork), Pealmeal Bacon (broiled lean pork loin), Split Pea Soup (incl. pork), Jiggs Dinner (beef, greens and split pea pudding), Fiddle Heads (cooked rolled fern leaves), Bannock (typical bread), Beavertails (deepfried bread with sweet toppings / Canadian donut), Montreal Bagel (boiled in honeyed water), Trempettes (crispy sweet pancakes), Touton (thick pancake), Cipaille (meat pie), Maple Taffy / Tire d’Erable (maple syrup frozen over snow), Butter Tarts (pastry), Saskatoon Berry Pie, Nanaimo Bars (crumb-custard-chocolate cake), Pouding Chomeur (cake with hot syrup), Cretons (pork spread), Oreilles de Crisses (deepfried pork rinds).
- The Veg Situation: Going veg is not so complicated in Canada, as vegetarianism and veganism is widely accepted. Most supermarkets contain veg products, be it very processed at times. Veg restaurants can be found here.
- National Drink: Ceasar Cocktail (Canadian bloody mary, sometimes with food hanging off of it), beer, wine.
Sleep Cheap
- Hostels / Hotels / Guesthouses: You probably knew already, before even booking your trip, that visiting Canada isn’t cheap. This goes for accommodation as well. Without being paid to say so, I love Booking.com: They have the biggest selection, are transparent about the final price and have an efficient search engine tailored to your specific needs (cheapest first!). If you use it often enough, Genius-discounts are applied. Air BnB is not what it used to be, price-wise, but in Canada they usually offer cheaper stays than in hotels or even hostels. Be mindful of the additional booking and cleaning costs though, as they can really add up. Writer’s Choice: In Newfoundland I mainly wild-camped, but twice found the online networks of Warm Showers and Couchsurfing.
- Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost (unless you put a third-world country as homebase), but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate review explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored). The Couchsurfing community in Canada definitely is a rather active one, incl. events organized in most of the cities. If your’re biketouring you can also look into Warm Showers, which is a bikepacking community focussing primarily on 1-night stays.
- Wild Camping: is officially legal in Canada. You can pitch your tent anywhere on crown land and you’ll even be abe to find free camping spots. The WikiCamps App Canada is extremely useful for finding these, with community reviews. If public land is scarce, you can ask permission to camp on someone’s private land. Canadians are very kind and hospitable and will likely allow you to do so. In national and provincial parks camping is only allowed on designated campsites or with a permit, and you’ll have to pay a nightly fee (wild camping in these areas is heavily fined).
Mama Said
Transport
Next?
- Safety: Canada is a very safe country with a low crime rate. Outside of the main cities, I met people who don’t lock their houses or cars. In nature, there are several wide animals to take into account, including black bears, grizzly bears, rattle snakes, coyotes, lynxes and cougars.
- Tap Water: is safe to drink.
- The best credit/debit card for traveling is Wise, as they use the live conversion rates with minimal exchange fees. Wise also has the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. That said, I do find their customer service rather questionable. Revolut is comparable, but they have higher exchange fees in the weekend and less wallet-options. Also, you can only wire money to Revolut in the currency you opened the account with, whereas Wise has IBAN’s from a wide variety of currencies, so you don’t have to pay a double exchange fee. Both Revolut and Wise have the option to open a Canadian Dollar wallet. Most Canadian ATMs charge a fee for cash outs, but card payments are accepted everywhere.
- Simcard: Data is known to be incredibly expensive in Canada, with one of the highest rate-per-gb in the world. Prices are even higher if you buy your SIM at the airport. Therefore, either go to the flagship stores to buy a sim (yes, you also pay seperately for the sim, without anything on it), or simply buy one in supermarkets, post offices, gas stations and even in the Dollarama. You can then add credit or a bundle online or via the app. The brands with the cheapest deals are known to be Lucky Mobile, Chatr, Koodo Mobile and Fido (although still terrible money-worth compared to basically everywhere else in the world). The best network coverage is known to be by Telus, Bell and Rogers. If your phone supports eSims, this might be worth looking into, as it’s in most cases more affordable. I used Lucky Mobile which had the cheapest data packages (sim bought in Dollarama), and noticed I had a similar coverage compared to any of the more expensive brands.
Transport
- Walking: Montreal is a pedestrian friendly city. Yet, as it’s rather big, alternative transport from neighbourhood to neighbourhood might be recommended.
- Cycling: Montreal has 1065km of bicycle lanes. Find a map here. There’s a bikesharing system called BIXI, which charges an unlocking fee and a rate-per-minute.
- Public Transport: Montreal has buses and an efficient metro system. You can pay per ride (incl. 1 transfer to bus) or 2 rides, or get a 3-day, unlimited evening, unlimited weekend or week ticket. Oddly enough, the week ticket runs from Monday to Sunday, so if you buy it on a Sunday it only works one day. The weekend ticket starts Friday 4PM. You can pay at the ticket machines, at the metro desks or get an Opus Card. Buses also sell tickets. Children travel free.
- Taxi / Uber: Canada has taxi apps such as Uber, Lyft and Zoomzoom. Car2Go is a car sharing app.
- Train: Canada has a train network operated by Via Rail, but this is a notoriously expensive option (generally double the bus prices, which are also not cheap). Book as early as possible and buy tickets on Tuesday to save some money. There’s a train line to the suburbs as well, called Exo.
- Car Rental: This is not a cheap endeavour in Canada. However, the best deals can generally be found when the car is picked up from an airport.
- Airport: Montreal Pierre Elliott Trudeau International Airport. Reached by Bus 747 (special ticket needed) runs 24/7.
- Hitchhiking: is relatively safe and easy in Canada, but definitively not common. Don’t bother with the ride-share websites or Facebook groups, as people dare to ask more than the bus and even train tickets. More info on hitchhiking in and out of Montreal can be found on Hitchwiki.
Next?
- In Canada: Newfoundland.
- International Destinations Close By: United States, Greenland.
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- German Gems: Aachen, Frankfurt, Heidelberg, Dusseldorf, Cologne, Mulheim, Osnabruck, Baden-Baden... and of course Freiburg!
- The world's biggest metal festival: Wacken Open Air
- The perfect daytrip from Aachen: Maastricht & Southern Limburg gems
- More of the Netherlands: Den Bosch, Haarlem & Nijmegen... and 10 typical Dutch celebrations you shouldn't miss out on
- More metal in Holland: Into The Grave Festival in Leeuwarden
- Discover more Belgium: Antwerp & the most kick-ass Flanders itinerary!
- Europe's best skiing & hiking: Get your ass over to jaw-dropping Switzerland!
- Visit Europe's mini-countries: Gibraltar, Liechtenstein, Luxemburg, Kosovo & Wales!
- Relive history in Austria's majestic capital Vienna
- Unravel the mysteries of Serbia
- More European city-tripping: Copenhagen [Denmark], Vilnius [Lithuania], Frankfurt am Main [Germany] or Glasgow [Scotland]
- Where city and nature meet: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Budget Bucket List hitchhike trip to... Kosovo!
- The prettiest historical town in Romania: Sighisoara!
- The 3 golden rules to travel Sofia on a budget! & Why you shouldn’t miss out on Plovdiv! [Bulgaria]
- Discover the splendours of Turkey: Istanbul on a Budget & Reasons to visit Edirne