Cross-Canada Cycle Journey 9:
New Brunswick & Prince Edward Island
Not in the story-mood? Scroll down for the Quick Budget Fact Overview: an itemized information summary of Canada! ↓
I had 66 days and 7509 long kilometres behind me. It was almost incomprehensible to fathom I still had 4 provinces to knock out. There’s Never-Never-Land, and then there’s Canada, the Never-Ever-Ending-Land. The odd thing is that when examining the map, it looks like I’m basically done. ‘t Is true, I might have still 2000km ahead of me, but divided up in four chunks it feels all the more digestible. The BC and Ontario-times are officially in days gone by, I’m now embracing the exciting sequence of brisk province-shuffling. Starting with the two fastest ones of all: New Brunswick and the teeny weeny Prince Edward Island. Provinces so compact, I’ll wrap ‘em together in one single article:
Day 67: Black Point – Miramichi
Distance: 144.7km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Shoulder in most areas, relatively good road quality.
Views: Forest, hills, river.
Water Situation: There are plenty of houses along the way where you could ask for water. You can buy water in shops en-route as well. The river is salty.
Food Situation: In between Black Point and Bathurst you’ll find gas stations and small convenience stores. Bathurst is a big town with all services. Then there’s pretty much nothing (besides one gas station with a restaurant) until Miramichi, which is another big town.
(Cloudy, heavy rain, no wind)
I opened my eyes inside of a tent somewhere on the coast of the Gulf of Lawrence. Yesterday we felt the energy to knock out quite a patch of New Brunswick, following the coastal Route 134 alongside alluring vistas, quirky lighthouses and the Eel River Bar First Nation. The initial aim was to settle down at the free campsite at Benjamin Park in the little town of Benjamin River. Yet, the dire mosquito situation triggered PTSS symptoms of Ontario. After 20 bites straight through a thick dripping layer of deet, we fled forward. Wind is the solution, which we found at a little grassy pullout at the shore of Black Point. Crusted in sweat, sunscreen and bugspray we dove into the bay after midnight, which to my great surprise was actually mildly salty. I didn’t quite realise how close we were to the Atlantic already, an exciting observation!
Day 67: Black Point – Miramichi
Distance: 144.7km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Shoulder in most areas, relatively good road quality.
Views: Forest, hills, river.
Water Situation: There are plenty of houses along the way where you could ask for water. You can buy water in shops en-route as well. The river is salty.
Food Situation: In between Black Point and Bathurst you’ll find gas stations and small convenience stores. Bathurst is a big town with all services. Then there’s pretty much nothing (besides one gas station with a restaurant) until Miramichi, which is another big town.
(Cloudy, heavy rain, no wind)
I opened my eyes inside of a tent somewhere on the coast of the Gulf of Lawrence. Yesterday we felt the energy to knock out quite a patch of New Brunswick, following the coastal Route 134 alongside alluring vistas, quirky lighthouses and the Eel River Bar First Nation. The initial aim was to settle down at the free campsite at Benjamin Park in the little town of Benjamin River. Yet, the dire mosquito situation triggered PTSS symptoms of Ontario. After 20 bites straight through a thick dripping layer of deet, we fled forward. Wind is the solution, which we found at a little grassy pullout at the shore of Black Point. Crusted in sweat, sunscreen and bugspray we dove into the bay after midnight, which to my great surprise was actually mildly salty. I didn’t quite realise how close we were to the Atlantic already, an exciting observation!
Too busy to read now? No problem, save it for later!
Save on Get Pocket | Save in Browser Bookmarks| Save on Instapaper
Save on Get Pocket | Save in Browser Bookmarks| Save on Instapaper
Less exciting was the day ahead of me, which I knew was going to suck from start ‘till finish. I heard the heavy rain slamming on the tent and stuck out my pan to collect the rain water to brew a breakfast in probably the last dry shelter for a while. Rain ruins everything. Hiking, cycling, traveling… literally every outdoor activity instantly turns into a punishment. There’s a reason why I left my homeland the Netherlands. Fair enough, we have been quite lucky recently, as the last two days the rainy provisions never properly caught up with us… but today we just needed to suck it up.
As there were no shelters around, and nothing screams misery as eating your sandwich in the wet grass under a drenching downpour, I knocked out the first 40km in one go until I reached a Tim Hortons. Taxing on the brain and body. The next stop up was the fairly large town of Bathurst, located on the Nepisiguit Bay. It started off as a French settlement called Nepisiguit, Mi’kmaq for “rough water”, but was renamed after Earl Bathurst during the British displacement. Up until now, the area is still officially bilingual. It’s also the homebase of my cycle friends Hector and Janet, who invited me to visit their elderly parents along the way. Gladly so! It was an incredibly valuable experience to connect with these friendly people and show them a part of the lifestyle their daughter is now living. Janet’s father passed away shortly after.
The journey ended in the next city up, Miramichi, where once again a fellow cycle-enthusiast from the Warm Showers network opened his doors to us. This man, James, knows what a cyclist needs. He had redesigned his entire garage into a true Cycle Oasis, including comfy beds, a shower, a fridge filled with high-energy snacks and both hydrating and alcoholic beverages, a cycle gear exchange and an entire maintenance- and repair station. What else can you need when you arrive with dripping hair and sopping wet socks? The widespread appreciation was shared on the walls, where the high number of previous guests had written their greetings and memoirs.
In Memoriam Viae.
As there were no shelters around, and nothing screams misery as eating your sandwich in the wet grass under a drenching downpour, I knocked out the first 40km in one go until I reached a Tim Hortons. Taxing on the brain and body. The next stop up was the fairly large town of Bathurst, located on the Nepisiguit Bay. It started off as a French settlement called Nepisiguit, Mi’kmaq for “rough water”, but was renamed after Earl Bathurst during the British displacement. Up until now, the area is still officially bilingual. It’s also the homebase of my cycle friends Hector and Janet, who invited me to visit their elderly parents along the way. Gladly so! It was an incredibly valuable experience to connect with these friendly people and show them a part of the lifestyle their daughter is now living. Janet’s father passed away shortly after.
The journey ended in the next city up, Miramichi, where once again a fellow cycle-enthusiast from the Warm Showers network opened his doors to us. This man, James, knows what a cyclist needs. He had redesigned his entire garage into a true Cycle Oasis, including comfy beds, a shower, a fridge filled with high-energy snacks and both hydrating and alcoholic beverages, a cycle gear exchange and an entire maintenance- and repair station. What else can you need when you arrive with dripping hair and sopping wet socks? The widespread appreciation was shared on the walls, where the high number of previous guests had written their greetings and memoirs.
In Memoriam Viae.
Day 68: Miramichi – Shediac
Distance: 130km
GPS: All Trails (recording has gaps)
Terrain: Shoulder in most areas, relatively good road quality. Different routes available (134 is more scenic, but the 11 less hilly and smooth… but boring).
Views: Forest, hills, river, towns.
Water Situation: There are plenty of houses along the way where you could ask for water. You can buy water in shops en-route as well. The river is salty.
Food Situation: Miramichi is a big town with all services. Then there’s nothing, except of a little restaurant called Lafiouk in Kouchibouguac (if you want to try the Acadian cuisine, this is your chance). After this, you’ll encounter some campsites, which might have a restaurant or a small shop. Then there are services again in Saint Louis de Kent, Richibucto, Bouctouche and Shediac.
(Sunny, hot, both side- and headwind)
After one of the rainiest days on the trip, the sun was now shining unbearably bright from a sharp blue heaven. We were sent off with a filling breakfast of toast and eggs, and for the first 6km accompanied by our host and fellow cycle enthusiast. We raced the streets while he was recounting his yearly travels, which are in all cases cycle-trips in new lands to be discovered on wheels. Maybe I’ll be like this man some day, exploring our fascinating planet on pedal force.
We kicked off on Highway 11, which is the flattest and smoothest asphalted option. It’s also the most boring one, so at the very next possibility we deviated onto the quieter and more idyllic 34 just alongside of it, even shortly passing through the Kouchibouguac National Park. Today we’re moving through Acadian territory, of which you’ll be reminded every few meters, with the house-sized flag in the town of St. Louis as the biggest exaggeration. The Acadians, a.k.a. the Cajuns, form the French descendants of the region, which explains the excessive patriotism. Acadia formed one of the five regions of New France during the height of European colonialism, yet was geographically, ethnically and administratively different from the other French colonies. Therefore, the Acadians have a distinct cultural and historic fabric. Nowadays, most of the Acadian descendants still live in either the Maritime provinces of Canada, where they resettled after the Expulsion of the Acadians by Great Britain (1755-1764), or in Louisiana, where they fled to. While we’re talking about it… They also have their own cuisine, which you can sample in a little roadside restaurant on the Highway 11 at the height of Kouchibouguac (Lafiouk). Acadian food classics include poutine râpée (not the standard soggy-fries-one – this is a huge stuffed potato dumpling), coques frites (deepfried clams), chicken fricot (chicken potato stew), chiard (meat potato casserole), cipate (also a casserole), coquilles saint-jacques (scallops), and for dessert: pets de soeur (cinnamon rolls), poutine a trou (stuffed pastry ball) or ployes (salty or sweet buckwheat pancakes). You’ll cycle it off.
We ended the day in Shediac, the current homebase of cyclists Janet and Hector, where they’d finish their Cross-Canada Adventure a few weeks later. In the meantime, I was more than welcome to spend the night. Hospitality at a distance!
Distance: 130km
GPS: All Trails (recording has gaps)
Terrain: Shoulder in most areas, relatively good road quality. Different routes available (134 is more scenic, but the 11 less hilly and smooth… but boring).
Views: Forest, hills, river, towns.
Water Situation: There are plenty of houses along the way where you could ask for water. You can buy water in shops en-route as well. The river is salty.
Food Situation: Miramichi is a big town with all services. Then there’s nothing, except of a little restaurant called Lafiouk in Kouchibouguac (if you want to try the Acadian cuisine, this is your chance). After this, you’ll encounter some campsites, which might have a restaurant or a small shop. Then there are services again in Saint Louis de Kent, Richibucto, Bouctouche and Shediac.
(Sunny, hot, both side- and headwind)
After one of the rainiest days on the trip, the sun was now shining unbearably bright from a sharp blue heaven. We were sent off with a filling breakfast of toast and eggs, and for the first 6km accompanied by our host and fellow cycle enthusiast. We raced the streets while he was recounting his yearly travels, which are in all cases cycle-trips in new lands to be discovered on wheels. Maybe I’ll be like this man some day, exploring our fascinating planet on pedal force.
We kicked off on Highway 11, which is the flattest and smoothest asphalted option. It’s also the most boring one, so at the very next possibility we deviated onto the quieter and more idyllic 34 just alongside of it, even shortly passing through the Kouchibouguac National Park. Today we’re moving through Acadian territory, of which you’ll be reminded every few meters, with the house-sized flag in the town of St. Louis as the biggest exaggeration. The Acadians, a.k.a. the Cajuns, form the French descendants of the region, which explains the excessive patriotism. Acadia formed one of the five regions of New France during the height of European colonialism, yet was geographically, ethnically and administratively different from the other French colonies. Therefore, the Acadians have a distinct cultural and historic fabric. Nowadays, most of the Acadian descendants still live in either the Maritime provinces of Canada, where they resettled after the Expulsion of the Acadians by Great Britain (1755-1764), or in Louisiana, where they fled to. While we’re talking about it… They also have their own cuisine, which you can sample in a little roadside restaurant on the Highway 11 at the height of Kouchibouguac (Lafiouk). Acadian food classics include poutine râpée (not the standard soggy-fries-one – this is a huge stuffed potato dumpling), coques frites (deepfried clams), chicken fricot (chicken potato stew), chiard (meat potato casserole), cipate (also a casserole), coquilles saint-jacques (scallops), and for dessert: pets de soeur (cinnamon rolls), poutine a trou (stuffed pastry ball) or ployes (salty or sweet buckwheat pancakes). You’ll cycle it off.
We ended the day in Shediac, the current homebase of cyclists Janet and Hector, where they’d finish their Cross-Canada Adventure a few weeks later. In the meantime, I was more than welcome to spend the night. Hospitality at a distance!
Day 69: Shediac (NB) – Summerside (PEI)
Distance: 103.7km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Shoulder at some areas in New Brunswick, not on Prince Edward Island. Varying road quality. Please note: You can't cross the Confederation Bridge by bicycle, you need to call the shuttle from a little telephone booth at the parking lot. It's free though, you pay on the way back or it’s included in your ferry ticket price when you leave.
Views: Forest, river, towns.
Water Situation: There are plenty of houses along the way where you could ask for water. You can buy water in shops en-route as well. The river is salty.
Food Situation: Shediac is a well-serviced town. After that, you’ll only find small shops at Cadman Corner and Murray Corner (you might want to call in advance to check opening times). After the Confederation Bridge there are some shops again, and Summerside has several big supermarkets.
(Sunny, hot, both side- and headwind)
Day 69, a number more exciting than the day itself. I in fact could hardly scrape together the motivation to get out of the house, and probably the only stimulus that eventually pushed me on the road was the realization that I had only about 100km to go to the next set destination. My mood had little to do with the town of Shediac where I spent the night, which is in fact a pleasant bustl’y town which derives its prime reputation as “The Lobster Capital of the World.” They even have a 90-ton lobster sculpture to show for it. It’s followed up by a stale stretch of highway (which I recommend dodging by taking the 133 instead), after which you turn left on the picturesque 955 countryside road. Soak up all that NB-scenery as thoroughly as you can in these last 30km until the Confederation Bridge, as this is where our Brunswick adventure ends. Wait, what? We’ve only been here for 3,5 days! Affirmative.
A light breeze whips the waters,
And bends the grass of our dykelands
Whispering her last words,
“You’ll find your way back again”
Off to the wharf in the morning sun,
Down to the hold for weeks or months,
Through the unknown with our daughters and sons,
Farewell Acadia, I’ll find my way back again.
Distance: 103.7km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Shoulder at some areas in New Brunswick, not on Prince Edward Island. Varying road quality. Please note: You can't cross the Confederation Bridge by bicycle, you need to call the shuttle from a little telephone booth at the parking lot. It's free though, you pay on the way back or it’s included in your ferry ticket price when you leave.
Views: Forest, river, towns.
Water Situation: There are plenty of houses along the way where you could ask for water. You can buy water in shops en-route as well. The river is salty.
Food Situation: Shediac is a well-serviced town. After that, you’ll only find small shops at Cadman Corner and Murray Corner (you might want to call in advance to check opening times). After the Confederation Bridge there are some shops again, and Summerside has several big supermarkets.
(Sunny, hot, both side- and headwind)
Day 69, a number more exciting than the day itself. I in fact could hardly scrape together the motivation to get out of the house, and probably the only stimulus that eventually pushed me on the road was the realization that I had only about 100km to go to the next set destination. My mood had little to do with the town of Shediac where I spent the night, which is in fact a pleasant bustl’y town which derives its prime reputation as “The Lobster Capital of the World.” They even have a 90-ton lobster sculpture to show for it. It’s followed up by a stale stretch of highway (which I recommend dodging by taking the 133 instead), after which you turn left on the picturesque 955 countryside road. Soak up all that NB-scenery as thoroughly as you can in these last 30km until the Confederation Bridge, as this is where our Brunswick adventure ends. Wait, what? We’ve only been here for 3,5 days! Affirmative.
A light breeze whips the waters,
And bends the grass of our dykelands
Whispering her last words,
“You’ll find your way back again”
Off to the wharf in the morning sun,
Down to the hold for weeks or months,
Through the unknown with our daughters and sons,
Farewell Acadia, I’ll find my way back again.
The transition from New Brunswick to Prince Edward Island is rather unconventional. The province, which comes as the name suggests in island-form, is connected to the rest of Canada by the country’s longest bridge (and if we dive into a niche: the world’s longest one over ice-covered water). It stretches out straight over the Abegweit Passage of the Northumberland Strait for a length of 12.9km. Yet, you can’t cycle (or walk) the Confederation Bridge. You probably wouldn’t want to, as you’d blew right off. Or the aggressive wind gusts will slam you straight into traffic, another less-than-rosy alternative. Instead, you’ll have to trace down an old-school telephone booth in the middle of some deserted parking lot… like you’re starring in some b-rated New York mafia blockbuster. The phone starts dialling automatically once you pick it up, and shortly a friendly man will drive forward and load you and your bike included on a pick-up truck. The passage is free of charge, you’ll either pay on the way back or as an included fee within your ferry ticket out.
My first few meters in PEI were cycled towards a small town called Summerside, where my cycle buddy reaped the fruits of his own Canadian-hospitality-snowball-effect (we were staying by his friend-of-a-friend, which makes it my friend-of-a-friend-of-a-friend). On the phone I was promised to adjust my expectations, as the place was allegedly rather simple and rundown… only to be received with fresh margaritas and high-end wine in Summerside’s fanciest penthouse, where a three-course menu of shrimps, steak and cake was offered to replenish my recently headwind-burnt calories.
After New Brunswick: 69 days, 7887.5km
My first few meters in PEI were cycled towards a small town called Summerside, where my cycle buddy reaped the fruits of his own Canadian-hospitality-snowball-effect (we were staying by his friend-of-a-friend, which makes it my friend-of-a-friend-of-a-friend). On the phone I was promised to adjust my expectations, as the place was allegedly rather simple and rundown… only to be received with fresh margaritas and high-end wine in Summerside’s fanciest penthouse, where a three-course menu of shrimps, steak and cake was offered to replenish my recently headwind-burnt calories.
After New Brunswick: 69 days, 7887.5km
Day 70: New Glasgow (PEI) - New Glasgow (NS)
Distance: 50.6km (Summerside to New Glasgow) + 111.8km (New Glasgow to New Glasgow)
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: PEI has shoulders and a good road surface on the main highway, but the countryside roads are narrow, very hilly and have no shoulder. The NS section has a shoulder and good road quality.
Views: Forest, river, towns.
Water Situation: There are houses along the way where you could ask for water, and at the ferry terminals you can fill your bottles as well. You can buy water in shops en-route. The surrounding water is connected to the Atlantic and is therefore salty.
Food Situation: Summerside has several big supermarkets. Other PEI towns with services that I passed along the way are: Kensington, Cavendish, North Rustico (detour) and Charlottetown (big city). Between Charlottetown and the ferry there’s nothing (unless you take the huge detour through Montague). In NS you’ll find all services in Pictou (detour) and New Glasgow.
(Cloudy, rainy, front and side wind)
For some reason it felt a bit “wrong” to keep cycling onwards straight away, leaving Prince Edward Island the very next day. As we had an outstanding invitation at a Couchsurfer’s house in New Glasgow (PEI), we decided to accept it, and just used the extra day to cycle up and down and left and right a bit, in an attempt to see slightly more from this lush let unforgivingly rugged island. Seriously, the ongoing sequence of never-ending hills are almost comically steep, as if they were copied straight out of a kid’s cartoon. To non-cyclists, the relaxed pace of life, red sand beaches and charming “small town atmosphere” is what makes it a beloved holiday destination, especially among their fellow Canadians. I can see that, even though in my humble opinion it doesn’t stand a chance against the beauties BC, Alberta or (what I’d find out later) Nova Scotia and Newfoundland. The aforementioned charming little town atmosphere we found in Kensington, which provides the typical type of setting where you just sit back on some cute little terrace while quite consciously enjoying the “small things in life.” New Glasgow had very little to offer, but I could most certainly appreciate the private swimming pool and outdoor jacuzzi (unfortunately offered by a rather unpleasant host, who proceeded to leave me a negative review stating I stole his wine… while this was in fact a bottle I brought as a gift to share. It’s possible apparently, an unsympathetic Canadian!)
Distance: 50.6km (Summerside to New Glasgow) + 111.8km (New Glasgow to New Glasgow)
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: PEI has shoulders and a good road surface on the main highway, but the countryside roads are narrow, very hilly and have no shoulder. The NS section has a shoulder and good road quality.
Views: Forest, river, towns.
Water Situation: There are houses along the way where you could ask for water, and at the ferry terminals you can fill your bottles as well. You can buy water in shops en-route. The surrounding water is connected to the Atlantic and is therefore salty.
Food Situation: Summerside has several big supermarkets. Other PEI towns with services that I passed along the way are: Kensington, Cavendish, North Rustico (detour) and Charlottetown (big city). Between Charlottetown and the ferry there’s nothing (unless you take the huge detour through Montague). In NS you’ll find all services in Pictou (detour) and New Glasgow.
(Cloudy, rainy, front and side wind)
For some reason it felt a bit “wrong” to keep cycling onwards straight away, leaving Prince Edward Island the very next day. As we had an outstanding invitation at a Couchsurfer’s house in New Glasgow (PEI), we decided to accept it, and just used the extra day to cycle up and down and left and right a bit, in an attempt to see slightly more from this lush let unforgivingly rugged island. Seriously, the ongoing sequence of never-ending hills are almost comically steep, as if they were copied straight out of a kid’s cartoon. To non-cyclists, the relaxed pace of life, red sand beaches and charming “small town atmosphere” is what makes it a beloved holiday destination, especially among their fellow Canadians. I can see that, even though in my humble opinion it doesn’t stand a chance against the beauties BC, Alberta or (what I’d find out later) Nova Scotia and Newfoundland. The aforementioned charming little town atmosphere we found in Kensington, which provides the typical type of setting where you just sit back on some cute little terrace while quite consciously enjoying the “small things in life.” New Glasgow had very little to offer, but I could most certainly appreciate the private swimming pool and outdoor jacuzzi (unfortunately offered by a rather unpleasant host, who proceeded to leave me a negative review stating I stole his wine… while this was in fact a bottle I brought as a gift to share. It’s possible apparently, an unsympathetic Canadian!)
Prince Edward Island was also the day where I spent my 37th birthday. Did I do something special? Yes, most definitely! I spent the day cycling across Canada, that sounds pretty special to me! From New Glasgow I proceeded to Charlottetown, the dynamic capital of the province, and continued on deserted countryside roads to the ferry terminal at Wood Islands. A 90-minute boatride later I was in New Glasgow, again. This time in the province of Nova Scotia. I could have stayed in Pictou, which was closer by, but the itinerary New Glasgow to New Glasgow sounded funnier to me… I know, my sense of humour might need improvement. As a birthday gift to myself I grossly overpaid for a mediocre Air BnB in the downtown area, where I proceeded to eat spare ribs in the bed while watching Netflix. A chin dripping from BBQ sauce and meat between my teeth: at the age of 37 I highly prefer this over a sparkling night out clubbing or a fancy dinner. Cheers to me! And Prince Edward, whoever the hell that may be!
After Prince Edward Island: 70 days, 8049.9km
After Prince Edward Island: 70 days, 8049.9km
Quick Budget Fact Overview
Canada Facts
Short History Recap
Ice Age: First humans migrate from Asia. 11th century: Norse establish first known European settlement on Newfoundland island. 1583: Newfoundland England's first overseas colony. 1701: 38 indigenous groups sign peace treaty with France. ’56: Seven Years' War between New France and larger / economically-stronger British colonies. ’63: Treaty of Paris → England acquires all French colonies east of the Mississippi incl. New France (becomes Quebec). ‘74: Quebec Act recognises French language & Roman Catholic religion. ‘76 onwards: Refugees from American War of Independence settle in Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, Quebec & Ontario. 1800s: Immigration from UK. ’37-38: Armed rebellions, dissatisfaction with ruling elites, poverty and social divisions. ’67: British North America Act → unites Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia and New Brunswick in Dominion of Canada. ’85: Canadian Pacific railroad. 1914: WWI → Canada fights on side of England and France. ’39: WWII → Canadian forces in Europe and Atlantic. ’49: Founder member of Nato. ’50: Canada/UN participates in War in Korea. ’65: New flag. ’70: Front de Liberation du Quebec kidnap an English trade official and murder a Quebec minister. ’82: England transfers final legal powers over to Canada. New constitution. ’91: Canadian forces participate in Gulf War. ’92: Canada, US & Mexico finalise North American Free Trade Agreement (Nafta). ’95: Referendum in Quebec rejects independence by a margin of 1%. ’99: Territory of Nunavut created in northern Canada (self-governing region with majority of indigenous population). 2002: Troops in Afghanistan. ’10: Winter Olympics. ’14: Mission to map Arctic seabed, in support of bid to extend territory up to North Pole. ’16: Free trade agreement with EU. ’17: Promised compensation to indigenous people who were kidnapped to be brought up by primarily white middle-class families. New trade deal replacing Nafta.
Canada Facts
- Capital: Ottawa
- Language: English, French
- Population: ± 39 mln (Ottawa: 1.76mln)
- Sq km: ± 9.985 (Montreal: 365)
- Currency: Canadian Dollar ($ - CAD)
- Electricity Outlet: A + B / 120 V / 60 Hz. Check here.
- Country Code Phone: +1
- Emergency Phone: 911
- Visa: Some countries need to apply for a visa, which can be done here or here.The ones that don’t need to apply for a visa waiver, called an ETA, which is a very cheap and fast process.
- Vaccinations: None.
- Climate: The country is so huge, that we’re dealing with several climate zones. The far north has a Tundra Climate (ET). Below that a zone of Subarctic Climate (Dfc), with patches of Dwc and Dsc. The southern stretch along the US border is mainly Humid Continental (Dfb), with patches of Temperate Oceanic (Cfb).
- High season: June-September. Summer is most pleasant due to the harsh climates in the colder seasons.
Short History Recap
Ice Age: First humans migrate from Asia. 11th century: Norse establish first known European settlement on Newfoundland island. 1583: Newfoundland England's first overseas colony. 1701: 38 indigenous groups sign peace treaty with France. ’56: Seven Years' War between New France and larger / economically-stronger British colonies. ’63: Treaty of Paris → England acquires all French colonies east of the Mississippi incl. New France (becomes Quebec). ‘74: Quebec Act recognises French language & Roman Catholic religion. ‘76 onwards: Refugees from American War of Independence settle in Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, Quebec & Ontario. 1800s: Immigration from UK. ’37-38: Armed rebellions, dissatisfaction with ruling elites, poverty and social divisions. ’67: British North America Act → unites Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia and New Brunswick in Dominion of Canada. ’85: Canadian Pacific railroad. 1914: WWI → Canada fights on side of England and France. ’39: WWII → Canadian forces in Europe and Atlantic. ’49: Founder member of Nato. ’50: Canada/UN participates in War in Korea. ’65: New flag. ’70: Front de Liberation du Quebec kidnap an English trade official and murder a Quebec minister. ’82: England transfers final legal powers over to Canada. New constitution. ’91: Canadian forces participate in Gulf War. ’92: Canada, US & Mexico finalise North American Free Trade Agreement (Nafta). ’95: Referendum in Quebec rejects independence by a margin of 1%. ’99: Territory of Nunavut created in northern Canada (self-governing region with majority of indigenous population). 2002: Troops in Afghanistan. ’10: Winter Olympics. ’14: Mission to map Arctic seabed, in support of bid to extend territory up to North Pole. ’16: Free trade agreement with EU. ’17: Promised compensation to indigenous people who were kidnapped to be brought up by primarily white middle-class families. New trade deal replacing Nafta.
Budget Bites
Sleep Cheap
- Main Supermarket Chains Canada: Sobeys, Metro, Walmart, No Frills, Foodland, Maxi, Your Independent Grocer, Real Canadian Superstore, Safeway.
- Local Dishes: Poutine (fries with cheese curds and gravy), Tourtiere (meat pie), Wild Pacific Salmon, Pate Chinois (layered ground beef, cream corn and mashed potato), Alberta Beef, Rappie Pie (grated potatoes pattie with pork fat, sea food and ground meat), Hodge Podge (vegetable/potato stew), Yukon Reindeer, Caraquets (oysters), Nova Scotia / Newfoundland Lobster, Fish and Brewis (hard biscuits mixed with cod or pork), Pealmeal Bacon (broiled lean pork loin), Split Pea Soup (incl. pork), Jiggs Dinner (beef, greens and split pea pudding), Fiddle Heads (cooked rolled fern leaves), Bannock (typical bread), Beavertails (deepfried bread with sweet toppings / Canadian donut), Montreal Bagel (boiled in honeyed water), Trempettes (crispy sweet pancakes), Touton (thick pancake), Cipaille (meat pie), Maple Taffy / Tire d’Erable (maple syrup frozen over snow), Butter Tarts (pastry), Saskatoon Berry Pie, Nanaimo Bars (crumb-custard-chocolate cake), Pouding Chomeur (cake with hot syrup), Cretons (pork spread), Oreilles de Crisses (deepfried pork rinds).
- The Veg Situation: Going veg is not so complicated in Canada, as vegetarianism and veganism is widely accepted. Most supermarkets contain veg products, be it very processed at times. Veg restaurants can be found here.
- National Drink: Ceasar Cocktail (Canadian bloody mary, sometimes with food hanging off of it), beer, wine.
Sleep Cheap
- Hostels / Hotels / Guesthouses: You probably knew already, before even booking your trip, that visiting Canada isn’t cheap. This goes for accommodation as well. Without being paid to say so, I love Booking.com: They have the biggest selection, are transparent about the final price and have an efficient search engine tailored to your specific needs (cheapest first!). If you use it often enough, Genius-discounts are applied. Air BnB is not what it used to be, price-wise, but in Canada they usually offer cheaper stays than in hotels or even hostels. Be mindful of the additional booking and cleaning costs though, as they can really add up. Writer’s Choice: In New Brunswick and PEI I found hosts via personal contancts, as well as via the online networks of Warm Showers and Couchsurfing. Many times I also wild-camped, which is legal on crown land.
- Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost (unless you put a third-world country as homebase), but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate review explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored). The Couchsurfing community in Canada definitely is a rather active one, incl. events organized in most of the cities. If your’re biketouring you can also look into Warm Showers, which is a bikepacking community focussing primarily on 1-night stays.
- Wild Camping: is officially legal in Canada. You can pitch your tent anywhere on crown land and you’ll even be abe to find free camping spots. The WikiCamps App Canada is extremely useful for finding these, with community reviews. If public land is scarce, you can ask permission to camp on someone’s private land. Canadians are very kind and hospitable and will likely allow you to do so. In national and provincial parks camping is only allowed on designated campsites or with a permit, and you’ll have to pay a nightly fee (wild camping in these areas is heavily fined).
Mama Said
Transport
Next?
- Safety: Canada is a very safe country with a low crime rate. Outside of the main cities, I met people who don’t lock their houses or cars. In nature, there are several wide animals to take into account, including black bears, grizzly bears, rattle snakes, coyotes, lynxes and cougars.
- Tap Water: is safe to drink.
- The best credit/debit card for traveling is Wise, as they use the live conversion rates with minimal exchange fees. Wise also has the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. That said, I do find their customer service rather questionable. Revolut is comparable, but they have higher exchange fees in the weekend and less wallet-options. Also, you can only wire money to Revolut in the currency you opened the account with, whereas Wise has IBAN’s from a wide variety of currencies, so you don’t have to pay a double exchange fee. Both Revolut and Wise have the option to open a Canadian Dollar wallet. Most Canadian ATMs charge a fee for cash outs, but card payments are accepted everywhere.
- Simcard: Data is known to be incredibly expensive in Canada, with one of the highest rate-per-gb in the world. Prices are even higher if you buy your SIM at the airport. Therefore, either go to the flagship stores to buy a sim (yes, you also pay seperately for the sim, without anything on it), or simply buy one in supermarkets, post offices, gas stations and even in the Dollarama. You can then add credit or a bundle online or via the app. The brands with the cheapest deals are known to be Lucky Mobile, Chatr, Koodo Mobile and Fido (although still terrible money-worth compared to basically everywhere else in the world). The best network coverage is known to be by Telus, Bell and Rogers. If your phone supports eSims, this might be worth looking into, as it’s in most cases more affordable. I used Lucky Mobile which had the cheapest data packages (sim bought in Dollarama), and noticed I had a similar coverage compared to any of the more expensive brands.
Transport
- Walking: Montreal is a pedestrian friendly city. Yet, as it’s rather big, alternative transport from neighbourhood to neighbourhood might be recommended.
- Cycling: Montreal has 1065km of bicycle lanes. Find a map here. There’s a bikesharing system called BIXI, which charges an unlocking fee and a rate-per-minute.
- Public Transport: Montreal has buses and an efficient metro system. You can pay per ride (incl. 1 transfer to bus) or 2 rides, or get a 3-day, unlimited evening, unlimited weekend or week ticket. Oddly enough, the week ticket runs from Monday to Sunday, so if you buy it on a Sunday it only works one day. The weekend ticket starts Friday 4PM. You can pay at the ticket machines, at the metro desks or get an Opus Card. Buses also sell tickets. Children travel free.
- Taxi / Uber: Canada has taxi apps such as Uber, Lyft and Zoomzoom. Car2Go is a car sharing app.
- Train: Canada has a train network operated by Via Rail, but this is a notoriously expensive option (generally double the bus prices, which are also not cheap). Book as early as possible and buy tickets on Tuesday to save some money. There’s a train line to the suburbs as well, called Exo.
- Car Rental: This is not a cheap endeavour in Canada. However, the best deals can generally be found when the car is picked up from an airport.
- Airport: Montreal Pierre Elliott Trudeau International Airport. Reached by Bus 747 (special ticket needed) runs 24/7.
- Hitchhiking: is relatively safe and easy in Canada, but definitively not common. Don’t bother with the ride-share websites or Facebook groups, as people dare to ask more than the bus and even train tickets. More info on hitchhiking in and out of Montreal can be found on Hitchwiki.
Next?
- In Canada: Manitoba.
- International Destinations Close By: United States, Greenland.
In order to support the travelers’ community, I spend many hours per week to adequately document all information and advices for prospective visitors, accompanied by a (hopefully) entertaining insight into my personal observations and experiences. This service is and will remain free. However, if you voluntarily want to make a contribution and support my travels and thus the creation of new stories and information supply, here is the button you’re looking for:
Related:
- German Gems: Aachen, Frankfurt, Heidelberg, Dusseldorf, Cologne, Mulheim, Osnabruck, Baden-Baden... and of course Freiburg!
- The world's biggest metal festival: Wacken Open Air
- The perfect daytrip from Aachen: Maastricht & Southern Limburg gems
- More of the Netherlands: Den Bosch, Haarlem & Nijmegen... and 10 typical Dutch celebrations you shouldn't miss out on
- More metal in Holland: Into The Grave Festival in Leeuwarden
- Discover more Belgium: Antwerp & the most kick-ass Flanders itinerary!
- Europe's best skiing & hiking: Get your ass over to jaw-dropping Switzerland!
- Visit Europe's mini-countries: Gibraltar, Liechtenstein, Luxemburg, Kosovo & Wales!
- Relive history in Austria's majestic capital Vienna
- Unravel the mysteries of Serbia
- More European city-tripping: Copenhagen [Denmark], Vilnius [Lithuania], Frankfurt am Main [Germany] or Glasgow [Scotland]
- Where city and nature meet: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Budget Bucket List hitchhike trip to... Kosovo!
- The prettiest historical town in Romania: Sighisoara!
- The 3 golden rules to travel Sofia on a budget! & Why you shouldn’t miss out on Plovdiv! [Bulgaria]
- Discover the splendours of Turkey: Istanbul on a Budget & Reasons to visit Edirne
- German Gems: Aachen, Frankfurt, Heidelberg, Dusseldorf, Cologne, Mulheim, Osnabruck, Baden-Baden... and of course Freiburg!
- The world's biggest metal festival: Wacken Open Air
- The perfect daytrip from Aachen: Maastricht & Southern Limburg gems
- More of the Netherlands: Den Bosch, Haarlem & Nijmegen... and 10 typical Dutch celebrations you shouldn't miss out on
- More metal in Holland: Into The Grave Festival in Leeuwarden
- Discover more Belgium: Antwerp & the most kick-ass Flanders itinerary!
- Europe's best skiing & hiking: Get your ass over to jaw-dropping Switzerland!
- Visit Europe's mini-countries: Gibraltar, Liechtenstein, Luxemburg, Kosovo & Wales!
- Relive history in Austria's majestic capital Vienna
- Unravel the mysteries of Serbia
- More European city-tripping: Copenhagen [Denmark], Vilnius [Lithuania], Frankfurt am Main [Germany] or Glasgow [Scotland]
- Where city and nature meet: Edinburgh, Scotland
- Budget Bucket List hitchhike trip to... Kosovo!
- The prettiest historical town in Romania: Sighisoara!
- The 3 golden rules to travel Sofia on a budget! & Why you shouldn’t miss out on Plovdiv! [Bulgaria]
- Discover the splendours of Turkey: Istanbul on a Budget & Reasons to visit Edirne