Liechtenstein Trail
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Liechtenstein, a tiny principality nestled between Switzerland and Austria, might not immediately spring to mind when considering “long-distance” hiking destinations. However, this diminutive nation packs a surprising punch for outdoor enthusiasts: The Liechtenstein Weg, a 75-kilometer* trail traversing the entire country. What makes this feat even more remarkable is that Liechtenstein itself spans a mere 24km in length and 12.4km in width! How did they manage to compose a trail of this extent to begin with?! Intrigued by this challenge, I embarked on a mission to conquer the Weg, opting for a less conventional approach: Hiking in the opposite direction (from north to south) and with just two days to spare instead of the recommended five. That’s what I call “getting the most out of your weekend”!
* An extra 5km added by the loop back to the nearest bus station.
Day 1: Schaanwald – Mauren – Eschnerberg – Ruggell – Gamprin – Bendern – Eschen – Nendeln - Planken
Section 5-4-3 – 40km
The answer to the mystery of how an actual multi-day trail can be created within such a limited geography was answered immediately on Day 1, at the northern leg of the Liechtenstein Trail. The initiators of this trail endorsed a clever strategy of embracing (seemingly) every available path and road, effectively swirling around the country's northern reaches in a grand, albeit intricate, loop. In the first half, you almost end where you started!
The journey began with a train ride to Buchs, followed by a direct bus to Schaanwald, a teeny town bordering Austria. The trail conveniently commences right at the bus stop, seamlessly ushering you into the Liechtenstein Trail experience. The initial stretch led me into a forested area, a short, sharp uphill climb that quickly transitioned into a descent back towards civilization. As I passed through Mauren, with its assortment of shops, cafes, and restaurants, a realization dawned upon me: this wasn't going to be the challenging mountain trek I had envisioned. Instead, the Liechtenstein Trail revealed itself as a carefully curated route designed to showcase the various facets of the country, connecting towns and villages and offering glimpses into everyday life. This isn't a criticism, simply an observation. It's neither good nor bad, just different from my usual mountain pursuits. However, the relatively easy terrain would undoubtedly be welcome considering the overall distance I was aiming to cover.
* An extra 5km added by the loop back to the nearest bus station.
Day 1: Schaanwald – Mauren – Eschnerberg – Ruggell – Gamprin – Bendern – Eschen – Nendeln - Planken
Section 5-4-3 – 40km
The answer to the mystery of how an actual multi-day trail can be created within such a limited geography was answered immediately on Day 1, at the northern leg of the Liechtenstein Trail. The initiators of this trail endorsed a clever strategy of embracing (seemingly) every available path and road, effectively swirling around the country's northern reaches in a grand, albeit intricate, loop. In the first half, you almost end where you started!
The journey began with a train ride to Buchs, followed by a direct bus to Schaanwald, a teeny town bordering Austria. The trail conveniently commences right at the bus stop, seamlessly ushering you into the Liechtenstein Trail experience. The initial stretch led me into a forested area, a short, sharp uphill climb that quickly transitioned into a descent back towards civilization. As I passed through Mauren, with its assortment of shops, cafes, and restaurants, a realization dawned upon me: this wasn't going to be the challenging mountain trek I had envisioned. Instead, the Liechtenstein Trail revealed itself as a carefully curated route designed to showcase the various facets of the country, connecting towns and villages and offering glimpses into everyday life. This isn't a criticism, simply an observation. It's neither good nor bad, just different from my usual mountain pursuits. However, the relatively easy terrain would undoubtedly be welcome considering the overall distance I was aiming to cover.
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The next challenge, though mild, was the ascent of the Eschnerberg. Interestingly, the climb felt more gradual from my opposite direction compared to the traditional route, which appeared to be a steeper and more demanding uphill. Eschnerberg, a prominent feature in the northern landscape, provides pleasing panoramic hill views and a sense of perspective amidst the valley landscapes. The trail was also radiating a certain Liechtenstein kindness towards their hiking visitors, providing access to water sources along the way, both natural streams and conveniently placed man-made taps, and several benches and even loungers on the many lookout points. Beyond the hill, the terrain transformed into a long, flat expanse across the valley. Also, trail is traded for sidewalk and asphalt, and the rustling of leaves for the gentle hum of residential life. Ruggell might not boast soaring peaks, but it offers a unique glimpse into the everyday life of this fascinating mini-nation, a perspective often overlooked by those solely visiting the capital and castles.
As you continue your journey, almost imperceptibly, Ruggell melts into Gamprin. This neighboring municipality holds a particular gem: a natural swimming pool, perfected with a bar. Imagine, after a warm day of working up a sweat, the sheer bliss of plunging in. The path leads onwards to Bendern. This charming village holds significant historical weight, serving as the location where the people of Liechtenstein decided, in 1719, to unite and form the Principality under the rule of the Prince of Liechtenstein. Today, Bendern is a quaint settlement with a prominent church, the Pfarrkirche Maria Himmelfahrt, perched atop a small hill, offering lovely views of the surrounding Rhine Valley. Taking a moment to explore Bendern is a chance to connect with the very foundation of Liechtenstein, to appreciate the past that shaped the present-day nation.
Next on the map was Eschen, a town with a history as rich as the fertile valley it occupies (to my great joy I can confirm that Liechtenstein grows a hell lotta wine). Eschen, like many of its neighboring settlements, boasts roots stretching back to Roman times and the Alemanni migrations. These Roman remnants can still be inspected today, and luckily for us, the trail leads right passed these archaeological sites! Today, it serves as a key industrial and commercial hub within Liechtenstein, a testament to the country's high prosperity. While Eschen is worth a little visit in its own right, to me it mainly served as a stepping stone for what I was really craving: a hiking section that would make my muscles sing. And that's precisely what I found on the way to Planken. Finally, after the gentle strolls, it was the first time on this particular trek that I truly felt my calves burn, a sensation that, as a weathered hiker, brings a feeling of complete and utter satisfaction. Planken, Liechtenstein's smallest municipality, perches precariously on the mountainside, offering a stunning vantage point overlooking the entire valley and into the Swiss Alps. The only regret? The lack of good accommodation options. This tiny village would be the perfect place to stop halfway through the hike, offering the best guaranteed breakfast view you could possibly imagine. Alas, it wasn’t a possibility (I wasn’t prepared to risk the wild camping fines). Instead, after having pumped a solid 40km out of my feet, I grabbed a bus back down to Buchs, Switzerland, where I had pre-arranged accommodation.
As you continue your journey, almost imperceptibly, Ruggell melts into Gamprin. This neighboring municipality holds a particular gem: a natural swimming pool, perfected with a bar. Imagine, after a warm day of working up a sweat, the sheer bliss of plunging in. The path leads onwards to Bendern. This charming village holds significant historical weight, serving as the location where the people of Liechtenstein decided, in 1719, to unite and form the Principality under the rule of the Prince of Liechtenstein. Today, Bendern is a quaint settlement with a prominent church, the Pfarrkirche Maria Himmelfahrt, perched atop a small hill, offering lovely views of the surrounding Rhine Valley. Taking a moment to explore Bendern is a chance to connect with the very foundation of Liechtenstein, to appreciate the past that shaped the present-day nation.
Next on the map was Eschen, a town with a history as rich as the fertile valley it occupies (to my great joy I can confirm that Liechtenstein grows a hell lotta wine). Eschen, like many of its neighboring settlements, boasts roots stretching back to Roman times and the Alemanni migrations. These Roman remnants can still be inspected today, and luckily for us, the trail leads right passed these archaeological sites! Today, it serves as a key industrial and commercial hub within Liechtenstein, a testament to the country's high prosperity. While Eschen is worth a little visit in its own right, to me it mainly served as a stepping stone for what I was really craving: a hiking section that would make my muscles sing. And that's precisely what I found on the way to Planken. Finally, after the gentle strolls, it was the first time on this particular trek that I truly felt my calves burn, a sensation that, as a weathered hiker, brings a feeling of complete and utter satisfaction. Planken, Liechtenstein's smallest municipality, perches precariously on the mountainside, offering a stunning vantage point overlooking the entire valley and into the Swiss Alps. The only regret? The lack of good accommodation options. This tiny village would be the perfect place to stop halfway through the hike, offering the best guaranteed breakfast view you could possibly imagine. Alas, it wasn’t a possibility (I wasn’t prepared to risk the wild camping fines). Instead, after having pumped a solid 40km out of my feet, I grabbed a bus back down to Buchs, Switzerland, where I had pre-arranged accommodation.
Day 2: Planken – Schaan – Muhleholz – Ebenholz – Schalun Castle – Vaduz – Rotenboden – Triesenberg – Triesen - Balzers
Section 3-2-1 – 40km
Yesterday's hike ended abruptly at 40km, that day’s goal to at least have completed the lion share of the entire Liechtenstein Weg (or so I thought). That said, for I am a creature of principle, I hopped on the trusty Liechtenstein bus to return to the very point where I'd abandoned my trek just below Planken. My conscience is clear; no shortcuts were taken. My descent led me to Schaan, a fairly monotonous town brimming with all the conveniences of civilization. Schaan is in fact Liechtenstein's largest municipality, though technically not a city, it boasts a population exceeding even that of the capital.
The trail beckoned onwards, winding flatly through Muhleholz (Mill Wood) and Ebenholz (Ebony Wood). A slightly bigger challenge, and reward, came with the ascent to Schalun Castle, perched dramatically on a rocky outcrop. Also known as Wildschloss (Wild Castle), it boasts a history as rugged as its location: Thought to have been built around the 12th century, its strategic position gave it a vital role in controlling the valley below. While now largely a ruin, the castle still exudes an impressive air of medieval grandeur, and the views are simply breathtaking… literally, as you’ll be out of breath once you finally get there. I might’ve slightly underestimated the steepness of the incline.
After a tad more climbing across actual mountain trails, the route takes a sharp southward turn, plunging down into the valley and directly towards Vaduz. The capital city is generally the only sight the average tourist sees of Liechtenstein, which is clearly reflected in the sudden high number of foreign faces and accents. The whole visitor area is essentially just one main street, albeit a rather pleasant one. If you actually do walk the Liechtenstein Weg in the generous 5 days provided, you have plenty of time on your hands to pop into the Liechtenstein National Museum (history/art), the Kunstmuseum (art) or the Landtagsgebaude (Parliament Building). After a massive, and in my opinion rather unnecessary, detour across the riverside, the trail will automatically lead you passed the Vaduz Castle, the main sight, and the official residence of the Prince of Liechtenstein. After a comprehensive (honestly: way-more-than-necessary) exploration of Vaduz and its surrounding areas, the Liechtenstein Weg loop takes you back up the hill, just a stone's throw away from where you descended. It might be worth considering whether it's worth the effort to go down in the first place, especially if you might have already visited Vaduz upon your arrival. In that case, you might choose to skip this section altogether.
Section 3-2-1 – 40km
Yesterday's hike ended abruptly at 40km, that day’s goal to at least have completed the lion share of the entire Liechtenstein Weg (or so I thought). That said, for I am a creature of principle, I hopped on the trusty Liechtenstein bus to return to the very point where I'd abandoned my trek just below Planken. My conscience is clear; no shortcuts were taken. My descent led me to Schaan, a fairly monotonous town brimming with all the conveniences of civilization. Schaan is in fact Liechtenstein's largest municipality, though technically not a city, it boasts a population exceeding even that of the capital.
The trail beckoned onwards, winding flatly through Muhleholz (Mill Wood) and Ebenholz (Ebony Wood). A slightly bigger challenge, and reward, came with the ascent to Schalun Castle, perched dramatically on a rocky outcrop. Also known as Wildschloss (Wild Castle), it boasts a history as rugged as its location: Thought to have been built around the 12th century, its strategic position gave it a vital role in controlling the valley below. While now largely a ruin, the castle still exudes an impressive air of medieval grandeur, and the views are simply breathtaking… literally, as you’ll be out of breath once you finally get there. I might’ve slightly underestimated the steepness of the incline.
After a tad more climbing across actual mountain trails, the route takes a sharp southward turn, plunging down into the valley and directly towards Vaduz. The capital city is generally the only sight the average tourist sees of Liechtenstein, which is clearly reflected in the sudden high number of foreign faces and accents. The whole visitor area is essentially just one main street, albeit a rather pleasant one. If you actually do walk the Liechtenstein Weg in the generous 5 days provided, you have plenty of time on your hands to pop into the Liechtenstein National Museum (history/art), the Kunstmuseum (art) or the Landtagsgebaude (Parliament Building). After a massive, and in my opinion rather unnecessary, detour across the riverside, the trail will automatically lead you passed the Vaduz Castle, the main sight, and the official residence of the Prince of Liechtenstein. After a comprehensive (honestly: way-more-than-necessary) exploration of Vaduz and its surrounding areas, the Liechtenstein Weg loop takes you back up the hill, just a stone's throw away from where you descended. It might be worth considering whether it's worth the effort to go down in the first place, especially if you might have already visited Vaduz upon your arrival. In that case, you might choose to skip this section altogether.
The ascent back up the hill is a rather monotonous climb. However, via Rotenboden, you'll eventually reach Triesenberg. This alluring alpine village is home to a few local shops, restaurants, and hotels, and boasts some of the most overwhelming views of Liechtenstein. Together with Planken, the best stretch of the trail, and without a doubt, the highlight of the second day's journey. Overall, the entirety of Section 4 of the Liechtenstein Weg is a winner. It captures the essence of alpine hiking, like you would encounter it deep in the Alps of Austria or Switzerland, albeit with a slightly easier difficulty level.
The next leg brought me through Triesen. I now truly started to suspect the trail's creators engagement in a covert mission to showcase absolutely every street corner, regardless of its contribution to the overall experience. Triesen, unfortunately, felt like a prime example. The path seemed to veer inland largely to highlight the university, and while academia is undoubtedly important, it didn't exactly offer compelling sights for the intrepid hiker. It begs the question: would a more curated, perhaps slightly shorter, 40-50km trail have been an equally rich experience? I already hold the answer to that question.
The silver lining arrived with Balzers, a familiar face from my first visit to Liechtenstein, when I spent three nights there. This town is definitely worth the effort though, showcasing an adorably well-located church perched atop a small hill, radiating an immediate sense of tranquility. However, the trail's commitment to exploring every nook and cranny of the available land proved, once again, to be a double-edged sword. While I appreciated the thoroughness, the final stretch led me to the southernmost border, at a considerable distance from the nearest bus stop. This meant backtracking (upping the mileage, of course) to connect with public transportation. So, while the official distance is advertised as 75km, most hikers will clock closer to 80km.
Another 40km day for the books, making the total journey undeniably heavy on my helpless feet. But, despite the occasional feeling of over-exploration, the beauty of the landscape and the charm of Liechtenstein continue to shine through. This is the type of adventure I crave, and after personally walking every inch of this tiny, intriguing country on a second visit, I can quite surely conclude that I properly did “check this country off.”
The next leg brought me through Triesen. I now truly started to suspect the trail's creators engagement in a covert mission to showcase absolutely every street corner, regardless of its contribution to the overall experience. Triesen, unfortunately, felt like a prime example. The path seemed to veer inland largely to highlight the university, and while academia is undoubtedly important, it didn't exactly offer compelling sights for the intrepid hiker. It begs the question: would a more curated, perhaps slightly shorter, 40-50km trail have been an equally rich experience? I already hold the answer to that question.
The silver lining arrived with Balzers, a familiar face from my first visit to Liechtenstein, when I spent three nights there. This town is definitely worth the effort though, showcasing an adorably well-located church perched atop a small hill, radiating an immediate sense of tranquility. However, the trail's commitment to exploring every nook and cranny of the available land proved, once again, to be a double-edged sword. While I appreciated the thoroughness, the final stretch led me to the southernmost border, at a considerable distance from the nearest bus stop. This meant backtracking (upping the mileage, of course) to connect with public transportation. So, while the official distance is advertised as 75km, most hikers will clock closer to 80km.
Another 40km day for the books, making the total journey undeniably heavy on my helpless feet. But, despite the occasional feeling of over-exploration, the beauty of the landscape and the charm of Liechtenstein continue to shine through. This is the type of adventure I crave, and after personally walking every inch of this tiny, intriguing country on a second visit, I can quite surely conclude that I properly did “check this country off.”
Quick Budget Fact Overview
Liechtenstein Facts
Short History Recap
1291: Origin Swiss Confederation: 3 cantons form alliance. 1719: Independent principality of Holy Roman Empire. 1815: Member of German Confederation. ’66: Fully independent. 1914-18: WWI. 1919: Habsburg monarchy of Austria is abolished. Switzerland replaces Austria as the representative of Liechtenstein's interests abroad. ’21: Swiss Francs.’21: Customs Union with Switzerland. ’38: Prince Franz Josef II. ’39-‘45: WWII - Liechtenstein remains neutral. ’84: Prince Franz Josef II hands over executive power to his son, Crown Prince Hans-Adam II. Women voting rights. ’90: United Nations. ’91: European Free Trade Association. 2000: G7 group of nations and Organisation for Economic Cooperation and Development criticise Liechtenstein for not cooperating in fight against money-laundering. Liechtenstein changes its banking laws. ’04: Prince Alois. Government-commissioned report: Liechtenstein banks' dealings with Nazis + slave labour from Nazi concentration camps was used on Crown estates in Austria, but describes the principality as a bystander rather than a perpetrator. ’05: Referendum legal abortion. ’08: Start political tax affairs. ’11: Prince Alois sparks controversy by threatening to veto a proposal to decriminalise abortion.
Liechtenstein Facts
- Capital: Vaduz
- Language: German
- Population: ± 39.850
- Sq km: ± 160
- Currency: Swiss Franc (CHF)
- Electricity Outlet: C + J / 230 V / 50 Hz. Check here.
- Country Code Phone: +423
- Emergency Phone: 112
- Visa: Schengen.
- Vaccinations: None.
- Climate: Oceanic climate (Cfb)
- High season: June-August; December-February.
Short History Recap
1291: Origin Swiss Confederation: 3 cantons form alliance. 1719: Independent principality of Holy Roman Empire. 1815: Member of German Confederation. ’66: Fully independent. 1914-18: WWI. 1919: Habsburg monarchy of Austria is abolished. Switzerland replaces Austria as the representative of Liechtenstein's interests abroad. ’21: Swiss Francs.’21: Customs Union with Switzerland. ’38: Prince Franz Josef II. ’39-‘45: WWII - Liechtenstein remains neutral. ’84: Prince Franz Josef II hands over executive power to his son, Crown Prince Hans-Adam II. Women voting rights. ’90: United Nations. ’91: European Free Trade Association. 2000: G7 group of nations and Organisation for Economic Cooperation and Development criticise Liechtenstein for not cooperating in fight against money-laundering. Liechtenstein changes its banking laws. ’04: Prince Alois. Government-commissioned report: Liechtenstein banks' dealings with Nazis + slave labour from Nazi concentration camps was used on Crown estates in Austria, but describes the principality as a bystander rather than a perpetrator. ’05: Referendum legal abortion. ’08: Start political tax affairs. ’11: Prince Alois sparks controversy by threatening to veto a proposal to decriminalise abortion.
Budget Bites
FREE Sights / Activities
PAID Sights / Activities
- Main Supermarket Chains: Coop, Migros, Denner, Lidl (just over the border).
- Local Dishes: Asparagus, Hafalaab (ham/bacon soup with cornmeal dumplings), Kasknopfl (cheese-topped dumplings), Ribel (grain), Sauerkas (cheese), Torkarebl (porridge dish), Liver, Rösti (potato dish), Birchermüesli (mixed muesli).
- The Veg Situation: Going veg is not so complicated in Liechtenstein, as vegetarianism and veganism is widely accepted. Most supermarkets contain veg products, be it very processed at times. Veg restaurants can be found here.
- National Drink: Wine (Blauburgunder – Pinot Noir).
FREE Sights / Activities
- Cities / Villages: Vaduz, Malbun, Triesenberg, Balzers, Schaan, Triesen, Rugell, Nendeln, Eschen, Schellenberg, Gamprin, Mauren, Planken, Bendern, Mühleholz, Ebenholz, Rotenboden Wangerberg & more.
- Sights: Vaduz Castle (private), Alte Rheinbrucke (bridge), Cathedral of St. Florin, Reclining Woman (statue), Tre Cavalli (statue), Government House, Burg Gutenberg, Gänglesee (lake), St. Mamerten Kapelle, Red House, Postal Museum.
PAID Sights / Activities
- Museums / Sights: Liechtenstein Center, Liechtenstein National Museum, Kunstmuseum Liechtenstein, Schatzkammer Liechtenstein, Uhrenmuseum Kurt Beck, FIS Ski Museum, Walsermuseum Triesenberg. If you like all of this, it might be worth looking into the Erlebnispass.
- Sports: Skiing (Malbun).
Sleep Cheap
Mama Said
- Hostels / Hotels / Guesthouses: You probably knew already, before even booking your trip, that visiting Liechtenstein (or Switzerland) isn’t cheap. This goes for accommodation as well. Without being paid to say so, I love Booking.com: They have the biggest selection, are transparent about the final price and have an efficient search engine tailored to your specific needs (cheapest first!). If you use it often enough, Genius-discounts are applied. Air BnB is not what it used to be, price-wise, but in Canada they usually offer cheaper stays than in hotels or even hostels. Be mindful of the additional booking and cleaning costs though, as they can really add up. Writer’s Choice: Warm Showers app.
- Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost (unless you put a third-world country as homebase), but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate review explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored). The Couchsurfing community in Canada definitely is a rather active one, incl. events organized in most of the cities. If your’re biketouring you can also look into Warm Showers, which is a bikepacking community focussing primarily on 1-night stays.
- Wild Camping: is illegal.
Mama Said
- Safety: Liechtenstein is a very safe country with a low crime rate
- Tap Water: is safe to drink. River water is also safe to drink. You can even drink out of public fountains in the towns.
- The best credit/debit card for traveling is Wise, as they use the live conversion rates with minimal exchange fees. Wise also has the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. That said, I do find their customer service rather questionable. Revolut is comparable, but they have higher exchange fees in the weekend and less wallet-options. Also, you can only wire money to Revolut in the currency you opened the account with, whereas Wise has IBAN’s from a wide variety of currencies, so you don’t have to pay a double exchange fee. Both Revolut and Wise have the option to open a Swiss Franc wallet.
- Simcard: Data is known to be quite expensive in Liechtenstein. The brands available are Telecom, Swisscom. If your phone supports eSims, this might be worth looking into, as it’s in most cases more affordable.
Transport
Next?
- Walking: The entire country is 160 km². You can reach anything by foot.
- Cycling: Liechtenstein has good roads and is quite cycle friendly.
- Public Transport: There’s a bus network in Liechtenstein (LIEmobil Bus – they have an app too, in German). Tickets can be bought online, in kiosks and from the driver. There are also weekly and monthly cards available offering cheaper rates. The Fairtiq app works in both Liechtenstein and Switzerland. There’s a train connecting in Buchs and Sargans (Switzerland, just across the border) and Feldkirch (Austria).
- Airport: None. Either use St. Gallen-Altenrhein Airport in Switzerland, or Friedrichshafen Airport in Germany.
- Hitchhiking: is relatively safe and easy in this area, but definitively not common. More info on hitchhiking in and out of Montreal can be found on Hitchwiki.
Next?
- International Destinations Close By: Switzerland, Austria.
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- The best hiking destinations of Armenia: Mount Aragats, Dilijan and the southern Legend's (Transcaucasian) Trail
- German gems: Aachen & Frankfurt am Main
- Read about Bosnia & Herzegovina: Mostar, Blagaj, Trebinje, Sarajevo, Jajce, Banja Luka and Sutjeska National Park (incl. Maglic Peak - the country's highest!)
- Get deep into Greece: Athens, Delphi, Arachova, Mount Parnassos NP, Epirus, Meteora, Thessaloniki & Volos
- Archeological treasures, UNESCO sights and Greece's roughest nature: Explore the Peloponnese!
