Kora Valley

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After a string of Kazakh cities (green, spacious, pleasant enough, but quickly blending into one another) I figured it was time to get a little more natural. Kazakhstan has 13 national parks, after all. The catch? Unless it’s Ile-Alatau or Kolsai Lakes (both handily parked near Almaty, where 99% of tourists orbit), information on the others is non-existent. Not in English, not in Russian, not even in Kazakh. Nothing. This is the ninth-largest country in the world, yet step outside Almaty’s radius and you’re in a digital black hole. Which makes planning any itinerary beyond the standard feel less like research and more like roulette… especially if hiking is involved, with its need for trail maps, water sources, or at least some vague clue. Instead, you travel for days across the steppe, tumble out in some remote corner, and hope it’s not just another cow pasture. That’s how I ended up in the Kora Valley, tucked away in the east and home to allegedly Central Asia’s largest waterfall: Burkhan-Bulak (168m). I’d spotted its name once, half-faded on a flimsy brochure in Shymkent, several hundred kilometres away, and thought: why not: it’s all I’ve got. A shot in the dark that, in hindsight, paid off. Though at the trailhead, it looked anything but promising.

* National Parks of Kazakhstan: Altyn-Emel, Bayanaul, Burabay, Buiratau, Charyn Canyon, Ile-Alatau, Karkaraly, Katon-Karagay, Kokshetau, Kolsai Lakes, Sayram-Ugam, Tarbagatai, Zhongar-Alatau

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Base: Taldykorgan / Tekeli

Getting to the hiking base close to the Kora Valley, wasn’t exactly straightforward, as nothing really is in this country. From Turkistan, where I happened to be, I first bussed it to Shymkent, where I boarded an 8.5hr train to Shu. I could have continued straight on to Almaty, but curiosity got the better of me. I had never been here and I’ll never be there again. Shu is the kind of sleepy town where nothing ever happens, which is both its charm and its curse. Quiet, non-pretentious, and essentially just a place to eat something, sleep and break the long and arduous journey.

From Shu I caught another train, this time 11.5 hours up to Ushtobe. The journeys definitely aren’t short, but Kazakh trains are surprisingly comfortable. Think Belarusian style: you don’t buy a seat, you buy a bed, complete with clean sheets and a towel. The trains might be old, rather slow and utterly Soviet, but they’re spacious, reliable, and the landscapes unfolding outside are infinitely better appreciated through a train window than from a bus seat, based on the different routes they’re taking. Ushtobe itself offered little beyond a single open restaurant that happily overcharged me for their monopoly privilege.

From Ushtobe, shared taxis connect onward to Taldykorgan, a properly sized city with all the services you might need. There isn’t much to see as a tourist, but it works as a solid base. I stayed the night, left most of my luggage at a hotel, and reorganized before heading into the valley. If you’re after something closer to the trail, Tekeli makes an even better base as it’s the very starting point of the hike. It’s smaller, but still has a few guesthouses, small shops, and everything you’d need to rest up before taking off. Stock up on food in Taldykorgan though: Tekeli’s selection is limited.

The Hike (4 days)

On paper, the Kora Valley sounded promising. Veiled in the Dzungarian Alatau mountains, nudging the Chinese border, this region is remote even by Kazakh standards. The range itself stretches some 450 kilometres along the frontier, a mix of snow-streaked peaks, alpine meadows, and deep-cut gorges that seem designed to keep the outside world firmly outside. Hidden in there is Burkhan-Bulak, a cascade of icy water tumbling 168 metres down a cliffside. Locals proudly call it the highest waterfall in Central Asia, yet facts disagree. Depending on which list you consult, there are taller drops in Kyrgyzstan or Tajikistan, but that doesn’t stop Burkhan-Bulak from holding the regional imagination. For me, after eleven years of full-time travel and a chronic case of “waterfall fatigue,” it wasn’t much of an attraction in itself… but as a hiking goal, a point on the map to walk towards, it served its purpose.

The hike began with considerably less allure and excitement. A dusty dirt road, churned up by construction, lined with the growl of heavy trucks and oversized equipment clattering past. Somewhere in the darker corners of the internet I’d read that the road had been closed to traffic back in 2012. Inaccurate, unfortunately. As first impressions go, it was abysmal: loud, joyless, and so mind-numbing I almost cut my losses and nearly turned around before I had even properly taken off. 15km of this, pure perseverance. If you’re reading this: drive this section.

But then, abruptly, the mood shifted. The construction noise faded, the road narrowed into a forest track still scarred by the occasional 4x4, and finally into a footpath so tight no car could squeeze through unless it fancied a swim across the river. That was the turning point. Suddenly, I was in a proper valley, shaded by trees, the trail running alongside a river that never strayed too far. The air was crisp, the scenery worthwhile, and scattered through the forest were unofficial camping spots. Nothing formal, but clearly regularly, with fire pits dug into the earth. Technically, fires are forbidden. The forest rangers who had earlier checked my documents had made that very clear. But this is Kazakhstan, where camping gas is a mythical product you can’t buy anywhere in-country. Unless you’ve lugged it in from abroad (which is hard, as you can’t take them on airplanes), you’re left with little choice but to cook over wood. Illegal in theory, inevitable in practice. Nights up here get cold, too, no matter how sunny the days are. You’ll hike in shorts and a tank top, but once the sun dips, you’ll want every layer you packed plus a sleeping bag that doesn’t skimp. I pitched my tent by the river, where the sound of rushing water drowned out all sounds. As darkness fell, the valley turned almost theatrical: a ceiling of stars, the silhouette of mountain ridges inked against the night, the smell of smoke curling from a makeshift firepit. It was one of those rare travel moments where the effort pays off not in grand monuments or bucket-list sights, but in atmosphere. After the grind of the approach, this felt like a secret pocket of Kazakhstan finally opening up.

The next morning, I pushed farther up the valley, trying to get close to the famous Burkhan-Bulak waterfall, but deliberately stopping shortly before. I suspected it would be crowded, with locals pitching tents and blasting music right next to the falls. Turns out, I was right. Lucky call. That day turned out to be a winner, hiking-wise. The Kora Valley revealed itself in ways I hadn’t dared hope for. Thick forests of Tien Shan spruce and fir loomed on the mountain slopes, mixed in with birch groves that filtered patches of sunlight onto the forest floor. In the undergrowth, wild rose hips, barberry, and bird cherry added splashes of colour, while spring-and-summer meadows were ablaze with wildflowers: tulips, irises, gentians, cornflowers, poppies, even carpets of edelweiss at higher elevations. Animal life wasn’t as loud as the trucks had been, but it was there. Butterflies drifted through the air; birds flitted through the canopy and along riverbanks. Golden eagles soared, smaller songbirds trilled at dawn. I caught sight of foxes skeetering away when I crept too close; distant hoofbeats betrayed the presence of maral deer grazing in patches of meadow... similarly so, the giant bear paws dried up into the mud gave away their lively presence (take camping precautions in terms of bear canisters and bear hangs!). The river, too, played its part: a vivid blue-green ribbon through the valley, its murmur underpinned by the smell of wet stone and pine, the moss on logs, and the chilled air slipping in from the glacial snows above. The contrast between sharp mountain silhouettes and lush valley floors was overwhelming after the slog of road and dust.

By night, the sky was a dark bowl overhead, pinpricked with stars. The air cooled fast. I wrapped into layers, lit a fire (responsibly), and washed up by the river. The music from the falls never reached this far. Just river, trees, and the sound of my own breathing.

The next morning I left my tent pitched and set off light, figuring it was safe enough to wander without hauling my pack. Every encounter I’d had in Kazakhstan so far had been unfailingly welcoming, and that streak continued. When I finally reached the Burkhan-Bulak falls, I was immediately swept up by a group of motorcyclists who seemed half in shock that a foreigner had made it out here at all. Within minutes I was seated at their impromptu BBQ, handed the prime cuts of meat, and coaxed into endless rounds of vodka shots, Soviet style. At one point, they even ferried me across the river on their bikes to spare me the indignity of wet socks. Between toasts, someone attempted to explain the story behind the waterfall’s name. According to local legend, two lovers (Burkhan and Bulak) were kept apart by caste and family disapproval. In despair, Bulak hurled herself into the gorge, and Burkhan, unwilling to live without her, jumped right behind her… like a Kazakh version of Romeo and Juliet. Google Translate’s limitations failed to clarify the details, but the essence was clear: the falls aren’t just a scenic backdrop, they’re a monument to doomed devotion.

That evening I wandered back to my already pitched tent: a small victory, sparing me the chore of rebuilding camp from scratch. It was my last night out in the Kazakh woods. There may well have been a loop that climbed deeper into the mountains, but with no trail reports, limited food, and thunderstorms rolling in, the gamble didn’t feel worth it. Instead, I backtracked, something I usually avoid, since retracing the same views is never as satisfying the second time.

A hitchhike spared me the miserable dirt-road section on the way out and unexpectedly turned into a further extension of local hospitality: a tour of Tekeli, an afternoon of shashlik and vodka, and even a full evening in the sauna. And not just any sauna… the Kazakh variety, which comes as a private suite (incl. sauna, steam bath and swimming pool) with an ongoing supply of pizza and snacks, karaoke on demand, and even a bedroom should the night spiral further (ehm, no thanks). Odd, unexpected, and somehow the perfect quirky way to close out a trek in the Kora Valley.

Quick Budget Fact Overview

Kazakhstan Facts

Capital: Astana (formerly Nur-Sultan)
Language: Kazakh (official), Russian widely spoken
Population: ± 20.1 mln (Turkistan: ± 224,000)
Sq km: ± 2,724,900 (Turkistan region: ± 117,249)
Currency: Tenge (₸ – KZT)
Electricity Outlet: C+F / 220 V / 50 Hz
Country Code Phone: +7
Emergency Phone: 112 general, 101 fire, 102 police, 103 ambulance
Visa: 30-day visa-free access for many nationalities. Others can apply for an e-visa here: https://www.vmp.gov.kz
Vaccinations: None mandatory, but Hepatitis A+B, Typhoid, and Tetanus are recommended.
Climate: Continental Climate (D type). Cold, snowy winters; hot, dry summers.
High season: May–September (spring and autumn are best for city trips; summer for mountains and lakes)

Short History Recap

6th century: Turkic nomadic tribes dominate. 8th: Arab influence grows, Islam begins to spread. 9th–13th: Various khanates and nomadic confederations. 1219–1221: Mongol invasion under Genghis Khan, region becomes part of the Golden Horde. 1465: Founding of the Kazakh Khanate. 1700s: Russian Empire pressure grows, intertribal conflicts weaken the khanate. 1731: First Kazakh zhuz accepts Russian protection; gradual incorporation follows. 1800s: Full annexation into the Russian Empire; nomadic life disrupted. 1916: Anti-Russian uprising brutally suppressed. ‘17–‘20s: Bolshevik takeover, famine and forced collectivization decimate population. ‘30s: Stalinist purges, deportations, Gulag camps. ‘40s: WWII relocations and industrialization increase ethnic diversity. ‘50s–60s: Virgin Lands campaign boosts grain production but damages ecology. ‘86: Jeltoqsan protests against Moscow’s appointment of a non-Kazakh leader; violently suppressed. ‘91: Independence declared; Nursultan Nazarbayev becomes president. ‘97: Capital moved from Almaty to Astana (later Nur-Sultan, now Astana again). 2000s: Oil boom fuels economic growth; human rights criticism continues. 2019: Nazarbayev resigns, Kassym-Jomart Tokayev becomes president. ‘22: January unrest over fuel prices sparks mass protests, Russian-led troops intervene; reforms promised.

Budget Bites

Main Supermarket Chains: Magnum, Small, Ramstore, Aina, Bereke Market.
Local Dishes: Beshbarmak (national dish – boiled horse or mutton with noodles & onion broth), Kazy (horse‑meat sausage), Kuyrdak (fried offal with potato & onion), Shashlik / Zhawbuyrek (grilled meat skewers), Lagman (hand‑pulled noodles with meat & veg), Manti (steamed dumplings), Tsioman (beef noodles with creamy sauce), Syrne (lamb potato dish), Bas Tartu (lamb head), Tumar (mashed potatoes with tender beef), Samsa (pastry), Plov (rice pilaf with carrot & meat), Baursak (fried dough balls), Koy Bas (boiled sheep head), Karta (horse meat dish, contains fried rectum!), Mypalau (sheep brain), Aspic (boiled cow legs), Aqshelek (camel bone), Sorpa (clear meat broth), Kespe (noodle soup), Shubat Kohze (horse meat soup), Shelpek (thin fried bread), Tandoor Nan (standard flatbread), Ak Nan (flat onion bread), Kurt (dried salty cheese balls), Chak‑chak (honey‑coated fried dough dessert), Zhent (sweet cheese dessert), Irimshik (sweet hard goat or cow cheese), Kaymak (sour cream).
The Veg Situation: Kazakh cuisine is heavily meat‑centric, with broths, fat and horse meat common even in soups and noodles. Vegetarian options exist but require asking for meat‑free versions. Look for: Pumpkin Manti, Potato Samsa, Baursak, Shelpek, Lagman (veg request), Dimlama (check for meat), Achichuk Salad (tomato, onion, chili), fresh bread, seasonal melons & fruit. Larger cities like Almaty & Astana have a growing number of vegan/veg cafés – check HappyCow Kazakhstan for current listings.
National Drink: Black or Green Tea, Kumis (fermented horse milk), Shubat (fermented camel milk), Ayran (salted yoghurt drink), Kompot (sweet fruit infusion), Kvas (mild rye‑bread fermentation), Kazakh beer (local brands: Shymkent, Karaganda). I cannot recommend Kazakh wine.

Sleep Cheap

Hostels / Hotels / Guesthouses: Kazakhstan’s accommodation scene is affordable by Western standards. Big cities like Almaty, Astana and Shymkent have a decent spread of clean, modern hostels, budget hotels, and guesthouses, often with better insulation, bathrooms, and facilities than in neighboring countries. Dorm beds are common in urban hubs and range from very bare‑bones to boutique‑style. Guesthouses in smaller towns may offer great hospitality, but minimal English and very basic amenities. As elsewhere in Central Asia, double‑check “private room” listings: you may end up sharing with “extra” guests if not confirmed ahead. Cash is still king, though card payments are increasingly accepted in mid‑range and higher-end hotels. Writer’s choice: Hotels in Shu, Taldykorgan and Tekeli. Wild camping in Kora Valley.
Couchsurfing: Fairly active in Kazakhstan, especially in Almaty, Astana, and along the Silk Road corridor. Kazakh hosts are famously warm and may insist on cooking for you or touring you around. Profiles with personalized requests get the best responses, cut‑and‑paste messages are often ignored. Verification is not a big deal, positive references matter more. Cyclists can also use Warm Showers, which has a small Kazakh network.
Wild Camping: Entirely legal in Kazakhstan, even in many protected areas, provided you respect nature and private property. This is one of the country’s great perks: you can pitch a tent in the steppe, mountains, or lakesides without hassle. Just avoid active farmland and clearly fenced areas. Near borders (especially China, Russia, Kyrgyzstan), military patrols may check IDs, so keep your passport handy. In bear country (Altai, some Tien Shan areas), follow standard precautions: store food away from your tent and keep a clean campsite. Locals will often stop by to chat or bring food, hospitality runs deep here.

Mama Said

Safety: Kazakhstan is one of the safer countries in Central Asia, with low violent crime rates and little tourist‑targeted theft. Big cities like Almaty and Astana have a visible police presence, which can feel either reassuring or overbearing. Police checks do happen, especially near transport hubs or public events, so carry a copy or digital scan of your passport. Avoid photographing police, military, or government buildings. Drones are technically legal but require prior government permission: flying without it can lead to confiscation or fines. Locals are generally warm and curious, though in rural areas expect plenty of stares.
Negotiating: Bargaining is not as ingrained as in neighbouring countries, but it’s still worth trying in bazaars and with taxi drivers. For taxis, skip the haggling headache and use Yandex Go: it gives you the real local rate and saves you from the “foreigner price.” Shops, restaurants, and supermarkets have fixed prices, but in touristy or market areas, start low and work your way up. Bonus tip: Know the going rate from a local and carry exact change… saying “this is all I have” works wonders.
Tap Water: Drinkable, but it can still be risky for non‑local stomachs. Most locals don’t drink it straight from the tap, though personally I did and had no issues.
Money: Kazakhstan is increasingly card‑friendly, especially in cities, but cash is still handy for markets, small cafés, and transportation. ATMs are plentiful in urban centers, less so in small towns. Withdraw from Halyk Bank, Kaspi Bank, or Sberbank for the highest success rate with foreign cards. Exchange scams are rare but still possible, so it’s better to stick to official banks or exchange offices. Best Travel Card: Wise remains the top pick for travelers: real exchange rates, low fees, and multiple currency balances (including KZT). Revolut also works but has higher weekend rates.
SIM Cards: Easy to get, but relatively pricy compared to the other -Stans. Main providers: Beeline, Kcell/Activ, Tele2/Altel. Beeline has the widest coverage. Bring your passport for purchase and registration, and have staff set it up before leaving the shop. Avoid airport kiosks charging inflated prices. Data is generous and speeds are usually fast in cities, slower in rural or mountain areas.
Maps: Google Maps works well in cities but is unreliable in rural or remote areas. Use 2GIS or Yandex Maps for more accurate navigation.

Transport

Walking: The towns mentioned in this article are small and compact, with everything at walking distance.
Cycling: Technically doable, but the Kazakh cities aren’t designed with cyclists in mind. No real bike lanes, and drivers tend to treat cyclists like slow‑moving obstacles.
Train: Train transport is a common way to get around Kazakhstan. Tickets can be booked online via the Kazakh Railways website (local phone number required), or through Tickets.kz and Tutu, or purchased directly at the station with a passport.
Taxi: Yandex Go works well in most bigger towns and saves you from bargaining battles. Payment is possible by cash and card, when linked to the app. Street taxis are common but almost always quote inflated prices to foreigners. Agree on a price before you get in.
Car Rental: Possible in major cities. Driving in Kazakh cities requires patience: parking can be chaotic, and traffic rules are loosely interpreted.
Hitchhiking: Common across Kazakhstan. Yet, in Kazakhstan, hitchhiking usually (but not always) means paid rides: locals often see it as informal car‑sharing. Discuss expectations and price before you get in. If you want to ride truly for free, you’ll need to be explicit about it and may have to wait longer.

Next?

In Kazakhstan: Taraz, Turkistan, Almaty.
International Destinations Close By: Kyrgyzstan, Uzbekistan, Turkmenistan, China, Russia.

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