Bishkek

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Bishkek and I didn't quite click. Perhaps it were the oppressive grey skies mirroring a particularly grey mood of my own. Maybe life hadn't quite ironed out its wrinkles, and Bishkek just didn't have the mojo to pull me out of the blues. Was it the city's failing, or mine? The jury's still out. Truth be told, as a devout member of Team Nature, a city has to pull all the tricks out of its sleeve to truly impress me. Places like Buenos Aires, Rio de Janeiro, Budapest, or Sarajevo manage to weave that urban magic. Bishkek, alas… A home to many, certainly. A symphony of honking horns stuck in perpetual gridlock, absolutely. But a compelling tourist destination in its own right? Not quite. But, let's face it, if you're venturing into Kyrgyzstan, chances are high you'll find yourself passing through its capital - the gateway for international flights and overland adventures. So, chin up! Might as well make the most of it, right? Let's dive in and see what Bishkek has to offer, be it very little.

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When life gets me down, I generally tend to rely on arts to lift my spirits. The Museum of Fine Arts seemed like a go-to approach. I was actually… surprisingly impressed. I'm not sure why I was surprised, to be honest. Perhaps I harbored some misguided preconceptions about artistic freedom and opportunity within the former Soviet Union, yet, the museum is chock-full of talent. The works of Torobekov particularly stood out. Now, for the museum aficionados among you, Bishkek also offers the Mikhail Frunze Museum, dedicated to the life of this military leader, and the imposing square-shaped National Historical Museum. If Soviet history is your jam, go forth and explore! As for me, I was consciously avoiding anything that threatened to further deepen my dark mood. In the art category: The Abdylas Maldybaev National Opera and Ballet Theater, a stately edifice, remained stubbornly silent during my stay, with no performances on the bill.

Therefore I ventured to the Kurmanjan Datka Memorial, honoring the formidable 19th-century Kyrgyz stateswoman. Adjacent to it, you’ll find a lively arts market buzzed with vendors hawking brightly colored portraits and landscapes, boasting depictions of Kyrgyz sceneries I’d rather be. Then, of course, there's the Monument To Manas The Great, a larger-than-life homage to the eponymous hero of the Kyrgyz epic. The epic tells the tale of Manas, a warrior who united the Kyrgyz people in the 9th century: a story of courage, nation-building, and a healthy dose of mythical creatures. The Monument to Baatyr Kaba Uulu Kozhomkul refers to a historical strongman who reputedly lifted a horse onto his shoulders – before Pippi Longstocking was even born. And lest we forget the region's Soviet past, a stoic Lenin Statue stands watch, a slightly incongruous reminder of a bygone era in this increasingly modernizing capitalist capital.

Victory Square, with its perpetually burning flame, stands as a somber yet proud reminder of the Soviet victory in World War II. Then there's the Ala-Too Square, the city's beating heart, frequently hosting national celebrations and events.

Now, a word of caution regarding the Central Mosque. Armed with Google Maps, I embarked on what I believed was a straightforward quest, only to discover that the location confidently labeled "Central Mosque" was... let's just say, not quite what I expected. A 1.5-hour detour on foot taught me a valuable lesson about trusting online navigation using the alphabet in a Cyrillic country. The actual Central Mosque, correctly identified as Mechet Saraskhi, was, in a stroke of serendipity, located a stone's throw from my accommodation. Visitors are welcome, also the non-Muslim ones, and the ones with a vagina are even provided with a complimentary "Harry Potter" cloak for modesty. Beyond the mosques, the city also caters to the religiously inclined with the Holy Resurrection Cathedral and the Church of the Holy Prince Vladimir.

For those seeking a more structured exploration, the Bishkek City Walking Tour is available as a free digital guide on the Izi App, offering a curated perspective on the city's highlights.

A classic, allegedly: The Osh Bazaar. Either I was particularly adept at getting lost (entirely possible), or the famous market has sadly succumbed to the relentless march of progress, replacing authentic marketplaces with sterile apartment blocks – a disheartening trend I also witnessed in parts of Kazakhstan. However, if you manage to trace it down, use it as an opportunity to embark on a mission to sample as much of the Kyrgyz cuisine as humanly possible. From the ubiquitous Tandyr Nan and hearty Plov to the more adventurous Naryn (boiled horse meat, a dish that requires a certain open-mindedness). Kyrgyzstan certainly doesn't shy away from meat, but amongst the Shashlik and Kazy, I also discovered some hidden vegetarian gems like Dimlama and the delightful variety of breads (my lifeline) and dumplings. While Bishkek may not have been a perfect match for me, it certainly left me with a full stomach and a broader understanding of Central Asian flavors.

Check out a full list on the fact sheet below.

If all these attractions still don’t cut if for you, salvation lies just beyond the city limits. Ala Archa National Park is the classic escape, and the pilgrimage to Ratsek Hut is a hiker's rite of passage. However, I opted to focus on nature further afield, having read reports about construction increasingly impacting the national park area, just like I equally experienced in the Ile-Alatau National Park just south of Kazakhstan’s Almaty. If you find yourself here in the colder months, skiing is possible at Chunkurchak, Kashka-Suu, and Too-Ashuu. Anything to escape the city smog!

Bishkek: A gateway to somewhere more spectacular, for sure.

Quick Budget Fact Overview

Kyrgyzstan Facts

Capital: Bishkek
Language: Kyrgyz, Russian
Population: ± 7.1 mln
Sq km: ± 199,951
Currency: Som (с - KGS)
Electricity Outlet: C+F / 220 V / 50 Hz
Country Code Phone: +996
Emergency Phone: 112 general, 101 fire, 102 police, 103 ambulance, (03657) 5-13-87 mountain rescue
Visa: Many nationalities get 60 days. If your country is not included, an e-visa can be requested here. https://evisa-e-gov.kg/
Vaccinations: None mandatory, although it’s recommended to get vaccinated against Hepatitus-A and B, Typhoid and Tetanus
Climate: Arid / Semi-Arid Climate (B). (Subtropical in Fergana Valley, Dry-Continental-Polar in higher Tian Shan Mountains).
High season: May-August

Short History Recap

8th century: Arab invaders in Central Asia. Islam. 10th-13th centuries: Kyrgyz people to the Tian-Shan. Turkish rule. 1685: Area conquered by the Oirats / Mongol. 1758: Chinese empire. Early 1800s: Uzbek khanate of Kokand. 1876: Russian empire. 1916-17: Anti-Russian rebellion Central Asia repressed. ‘17-23: October Revolution, Civil War. ‘20s/’30s: Soviet land reforms, state-owned farms. Defeats the traditional nomadic life. Members of opposing intelligentsia imprisoned / executed. ’21: Turkestan Autonomous Soviet Socialist Republic (ASSR) within Russian Soviet Federated Socialist Republic (RSFSR). ’24: Kara-Kirgiz Autonomous Region. ’36: Kirgiz Soviet Socialist Republic (SSR) becomes republic within USSR. ’90: State of emergency after 100s people are killed in interethnic clashes between Uzbeks and Kyrgyz around Osh. ’91: Kirgizia gets name Kyrgyzstan, independent. ’92: UN. Economic reform program. ’93: Som as currency (formerly Russian rubble). ’98: Suspension death penalty announced. ’99: Troops to free by Islamic militants near Tajik border. 2000: Border deal with China. ’03: Putin opens Russian air base at Kant, near base used by US forces. ’06: President Bakiyev signs new constitution after mass protests demanding resignation: Limits his powers. Government resigns. ’07: Government resigns again. Prime Minister Almaz Atabayev poisoned. ’08: Earthquake kills 65 in Osh. ’09: Closure of US air base, after $2bn in loans / aid from Russia. Nevertheless continued after US pays more than triple of annual rent. Kyrgyzstan allows Russia to establish a 2nd military base. ’10: 200+ killed in clashes between Kyrgyz and Uzbek ethnic communities in Osh and Jalalabad. Referendum: a new constitution reducing the powers of the presidency and turning country into a parliamentary republic. ’14: US air base closed.

Budget Bites

Main Supermarket Chains in Karakol: Globus, non-chain supermarkets. Besides 1 or 2 few-square-meters shops with an extremely limited connection, Jyrgalan does not have any food provision. You will have to bring everything from Karakol. Along the Ak-Suu Transverse there are no food stops, besides some restaurants and tiny shops in Altyn-Arashan.
Farmers Markets: Karakol Big Bazaar.
Local Dishes: Tandyr Nan (traditional bread), Plov/Paloo (signature rice dish), Shashlik (grilled meat skewer), Naryn (boiled horse meat cut into thin strips, with cold noodles and hot broth), Samsa (pastry, standard street food), Kazy (horsemeat sausage), Ashlyam-Fu (cold Kyrgyz soup), Lazy (spicy seasoning), Tash-Kordo (stone or oven grilled lamb), Shurugan (fried onions in ghee with milk), Oromo (Kyrgyz lumpia), Hoshany (minced meat pies, Uyghur cuisine), Kattama (flaky tortillas covered in a crispy crust and fried onions), Zhuurat (sheep or goat yoghurt), Jansak (dessert containing ghee, nuts and honey), Laghman (hand pulled noodle dish), Manti (dumplings), Ganfan (spicy meat and vegetable dish over steamed rice), Beshbarmak (minced mutton poured over hand-cut noodles), Kuurdak (fried marinated meat, onions, and potatoes), Shorpo (Kyrgyz chicken soup), Chechil (braided cheese, bar snack), Dimlama (hearty, stewed vegetables).
The Veg Situation: Being vegetarian or vegan could be complicated in Kyrgyzstan, as their cuisine is incredibly meat-centered. Eggs and broth can also be found in most dishes. Remaining true to your diet will probably require you mainly cooking your own meals. Veg restaurants (almost all located in Bishkek, a select few in Karakol) can be found here https://www.happycow.net/asia/kyrgyzstan/ . Local veg dishes: Potato Samsa, Lazy, Veg Ashlyan-Fu, Oromo (enquire about meat in ingredients, there are veg versions), Potato Manti, Jansak, Dimlama (sometimes comes with meat, so enquire in advance), Salads (Salat Shirin, with crunchy marinated eggplant, is delicious).
National Drink: Chalap (fermented dairy drink), Maksym (fermented roasted grain drink, "liquid bread"), Kumys (fermented mare’s milk), Ozo (millet-corn drink, 4-6% alcohol), Dzarma (alcoholic barley drink).

Sleep Cheap

Hostels / Hotels / Guesthouses: You’ll notice that Kyrgyzstan is quite affordable, also when it comes to accommodation. This excludes the very touristy areas around Altyn-Aryshan and Ala-Kol Lake, where mass tourism sparked some shiny dollar signs in the local’s eyes. Guesthouses and homestays are the main offer, often including a simple but hearty home-made breakfast. The bigger cities also offer hostels, with very cheap beds in shared dormitories. However, be aware that even if you book (and pay for) a private room, like I usually did, they will try to put strangers in your room as soon as they realize you are traveling solo. It always caused an uncomfortable discussion. The reason for this can be found in many homestay-owners not really understanding online booking platforms, and therefore listing a private room while they actually mean a private bed. Another reason might be Kyrgyz culture, and entire families being used to sharing a bedroom with one another, not realizing that foreigners might not appreciate this. After a few of these instances, I always send a message ahead to confirm I truly do have a private room. Keep in mind that almost every accommodation only accepts payment in cash. Writer’s choice: I stayed in a private room in the Hadia Guesthouse, where they indeed tried to put strangers in my room. They also tried to up the rate higher than what I booked it for. In Jyrgalan I stayed in the Beymaral Lodge for 1 night, and camped out 3 in the valley. I camped the whole way through on the Ak-Suu Transverse, minus one over-priced yurt camp.
Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost (unless you put a third-world country as homebase), but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate request explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored). The Couchsurfing community in Kyrgyzstan is not big, but exists. Cyclists may also use Warm Showers, which is in principal a bikepacking community focussing on 1-night stays.
Wild Camping: is entirely legal in Kyrgyzstan, about anywhere you go. Avoid private land, obviously.

Mama Said

Safety: Kyrgyzstan is a pretty safe country, with a relatively low crime rate and few reported incidents involving foreign visitors. You’ll notice that the Kyrgyz people mainly keep to themselves, and generally won’t bother you (unless some money can be made).
Money: While some bigger supermarkets or hotels offer card payments, cash is the way to go in Kyrgyzstan. Many places offer a QR code payment, but this is for Kyrgyz banks only. Always carry sufficient cash money, as ATMs are only available in bigger towns and cities.
Negotiating: I am sorry to have to conclude it, but where the northern neighbours in Kazakhstan tend to have a culture of giving, Kyrgyzstan has a culture of taking. Money, that is. Always, and always more. The locals definitely aren’t unfriendly, but they do see you as a walking wallet, that’s just how I felt treated after an extended period of time in this country. The reason can be found in Kyrgyzstan actually having quite a high number of tourists in certain areas, while Kazakhstan basically has none outside of the Almaty area. Wherever there are no written down prices, you’ll likely to be charged double. Therefore, inform yourself in advance about certain prices, so you have a base for negotiation. You’ll still be paying more than the locals will, but not as outrageous as their first attempt. It’s tiring, honestly.
Tap Water: is safe to drink, although not everyone’s stomach is resistant to it. I drank tap water my entire stay without issues. When hiking, I used a filter, as cattle is all around. When cooking, the act of boiling already kills the bacteria.
The best credit/debit card for traveling is Wise, as they use the live conversion rates with minimal exchange fees. Wise also has the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. Revolut is comparable, but they have higher exchange fees in the weekend and less wallet-options. Also, you can only wire money to Revolut in the currency you opened the account with, whereas Wise has IBAN’s from a wide variety of currencies, so you don’t have to pay a double exchange fee. Some Kyrgyz ATMs charge a fee for cash outs, but not all. Always make sure to carry enough cash around, as this is the most common payment method.
Simcard: Buying a local simcard, mainly containing unlimited calls and data, is incredibly cheap. The main providers are Megacom, O! and Beeline. I have a relatively good experience with O!, but it didn’t work in the mountains (as I have heard from others, no provider seems to). In Bishkek, the best place to buy a simcard is at the Tsum Aichurok shopping centre, although in the capital you’ll see street vendors all around. Avoid buying it at an elevated rate at the airport. You need to bring an ID. An odd thing is that they’ll ask you to register your simcard with the government within 30 days (for a fee that’s higher than the simcard cost), which can be done at a very chaotic desk at the highest floor of the Tsum Aichurok shopping centre. However, they’ll require a visa for it, which most visitors simply don’t have as 60 visa-free days are granted. As such, you can’t register it. For some people this results in an immediate blockage, some (like me) just don’t have an issue. I honestly didn’t even try, I figure I wait and see what happens (nothing happened). You can just risk it, especially if you’re staying less than a month. If you’re staying longer, just buy a new sim with a different ID.
Campers among us, I recommend buying all gear you might need in Bishkek, as it gets harder to trace it down outside of the capital. Especially camping gas, which I found at Red Fox (expensive), as well as in Novatex and Alex (cheaper). Expect gear and clothing to have standard western prices, it’s not really affordable whatsoever as it’s the tourist that buy this stuff, not the locals… but at least it’s available.

Transport

Walking: The central area of Karakol with the main attractions (as far as there are any) is rather compact, and can be explored on foot. Jyrgalan exists of a few dirt roads.
Cycling: Due to the bad road conditions and complete chaos of traffic, it’s not recommended.
Public Transport: Buses and minibuses (mashrutkas) are the main way to get around town. Unlike in Kazakhstan, people actually pay for the buses here. You pay the driver directly, preferably in exact cash. It is incredibly cheap, we’re talking about cents. Yandex Maps or 2gis can be used to find public transport connections, Google Maps doesn’t properly work for that purpose in Kyrgyzstan. City buses stop at designated bus stops. Mashrutkas or shared taxis can be hailed down anywhere. For intercity and international travel, head to the northern bus terminal, the Big Bazaar or the tiny southern bus terminal (better to check with a local, as there’s no obvious system). Mashrutkas are the main form of city-to-city transportation, you’ll hardly find big buses. They don’t tend to run on a specific time schedule, but leave when they’re full. For less-visited destinations, you’ll need to take a shared taxi. They also leave when they reached their 5 passengers, which may take a while. In Kyrgyzstan, they will generally charge you a much higher rate if you look like a foreigner, up to more than double (sometimes they even put an extra “0” after the amount). Therefore, I always checked in advance at my guesthouse or with a local what the actual going rate is and prepared that in exact cash, to not be ripped off. Sometimes I still had to pay a bit extra, but at least it was limited.
Train: Unlike in Kazakhstan, train travel doesn’t really exist here. There is an underdeveloped line from Bishkek to Balykchy (on the eastern shore of Lake Issyk-Kul), but it’s more suitable for the enthusiasts compared to those who just prefer efficient travel.
Taxi / Uber: Yandex Go is the main taxi app, only available in the bigger cities. It works in Karakol. It is very cheap, and secures you pay the correct rate without the tiring need to always haggle. The fare can also be paid by card or online pay, which allows you to hold on to your cash money.
Car Rental: is surprisingly expensive in Kyrgyzstan, surpassing the rates that can be found in western countries. The reason for this is that it’s catered to tourists, not to locals, so one will always pay top dollar.
Hitchhiking: is very common in Kyrgyzstan, especially on trajectories where public transportation is limited. You’ll notice entire families standing on the roadside, pointing down their index finger to the road as to indicate this act. After enquiry with a local tourist office, I was ensured that payment is in these cases not expected and even refused. However, in reality, this seemed to be untrue. I would in most cases persistently be asked for money (and always more), and if they don’t, they have never ever refused it when I offered. Not trying to insult here, simply stating facts of a 1.5 month stay.

Next?

In Kyrgyzstan: Lake Issyk-Kul (Nomad Valley Trail), Osh, Naryn (Tash Rabat Loop), Karakol (Ak-Suu Traverse).
International Destinations Close By: Kazakhstan, Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, China.

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