Belarus - West

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Belarus is not that big. I’m one to talk, being born and raised in a 41,545km² country… yet, with 207,600km² it’s about 2.5 times smaller than for example France or Spain, or almost 3 times smaller than Ukraine. Therefore I didn’t expect the sheer variety I ran into by simply traveling from east to west. Whereas the snow-covered east, hiding under the shadow of Mother Russia, seemed to have been unable / unwilling to shake of its post-communist elements, aligning with an Eastern European, Yugoslavian ambience… the west absorbs that warmer, cozier Polish influence. Not only in temperature, but most definitely also in its architecture designed not for mere Marxist functionality, but to create a certain feel-good ambience. Not a big shocker, given it used to be Poland up until WWII, when the Potsdam Conference confirmed the new borders based on ethnical divisions (after a “grand plan” of our good ol’ comrade Joseph Stalin). It left Belarus with an area containing 2 of its most visit-worthy cities, as well as a national park doubling as a UNESCO World Heritage Site.
 
 
Grodna
 
The best example of that instant in-your-face Polish immersion is Grodna (Hrodna / Grodno). The favorite city of many a Belarusian I spoke to, and frankly, also mine. Grodna just hits different. It comes right at you with its hardcore charm offensive of incredibly warm and welcoming pedestrian streets like the Ulitsa Sovetska, cozy and welcoming little squares suddenly popping up with craft beer and live music under the first rays of sunshine, family-friendly parks and even a handful of palaces and castles. Oh, come on! It’s like they’re overdoing it on purpose. Combined with the temporary Christmas makeover my visit happened to coincide with, the entire city just took on the shape of one big Charles Dickens story backdrop… without denying its rough edges and commie past, that still wildly attracts me. 
The Regional Drama Theatre is one fine example of this no-nonsense, pleasantly terrifying Brutalist architecture, while the for Belarus oh-so-standard decorative tank and Lenin statue still reminds you where you are. Resistance is futile, just open up your heart to Grodna already, as this is what your ideal cheesy travel memories are made of! I went all in, citytripping like my life depended on it and sightseeing like it was my job (which actually, it is). I roamed up and down the alleys, traced down the Panels of National Cultures Mural, hopped from the Old to the New Castle* and even dug up a dose of enthusiasm for its varied church supply. Did you know that Grodna’s Kalozha Boris-Gleb Church is in fact Belarus’ oldest? It’s not as impressive as the Holy Intercession Cathedral, which is without a single doubt the most stunning building I’ve seen on my entire domestic journey, but it’s a relevant one to dedicate some time to. Everything in Grodna seems worth your time, up to the point that you run out no matter how generous your schedule was. Grodna is one of those cities that shortly pauses you in your steps and forces you to ask yourself: “should I live here?”… before continuing on, as always (and for always), to the ever-luring call of future discoveries and experiences to be had in undiscovered areas in the hope they match a similar charm.


* The New Castle / Royal Palace was built in 1738-1742 as a rococo royal residence and a place where parliamentary sessions of the Polish-Lithuanian Commonwealth were held. Those events led to Grodna being incorporated into the Russian Empire. The building has since served as a military school, military hospital, government building and currently as the Grodna State Historical and Archeological Museum and Hrodna Regional Archives of Public Organizations.

 
FREE Sights / Activities

  • Sights: Sovetskaya Street, Panels of National Cultures Mural, Grodno Regional Drama Theatre, Monument 850 Years of Anniversary Grodno, Lenin Square, Dom Kuptsa Muravyeva Building, Vialikaja Trajeckaja Vulica (bar square next to Красным по белому), Old Cemetery, Karsky Scientific Library, Monument to Fuel Tanker, Monument to Teaches and Students who died in the Great Patriotic War, In Memory of the Ghetto Prisoners Monument, Tank T-34, Zero Kilometer, Palace of Grodna Vice Governer K. Maksimovich, Valitskikh Palace, Kalozha Boris-Gleb Church (oldest building of Belarus), St. Francis Xavier Cathedral, Holy Intercession Cathedral, Great Choral Synagogue & more churches.
  • Hikes / Nature: Zhiliber’s Park, Kalozha Park, Yubileynoye Reservoir, Neman River.
 

PAID Sights / Activities
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  • Sights: Old Castle, New Castle / Grodna Royal Palace, Grodna Fortress.
  • Museums: Fire Museum & Watchtower of the Fire Department (+ mural), Pharmacy Museum, Grodna State Museum of Religion History, Maksim Bogdanovic Museum, House Museum of Eliza Ozheshko, Janusz Parulis’ History Museum of Life and History, Grishuk Arsenal Gallery, Museum of Jewish History of Grodna, Museum of Malformations of the Human Body, Museum of Interesting Things / Prosta Kava.
  • Other: Grodno City Amusement Park.
Traveling down from Grodna to Brest, you pass by one of the most significant destinations in Belarus: the Bialowieza Forest. The 141,885ha-area stretching out over both Belarus and Poland is not only classified as a national park, it’s also a natural UNESCO World Heritage Site due to its irreplaceable biodiversity. The reserve is home to the largest free-roaming bison population in Europe, as well as elk, boars and wild horses. Unfortunately, without a car it’s extremely difficult to visit on the Belarusian side. You have the option to hitchhike to Agrousadba, where most hotels within the national park are located (which you’ll have to call in Russian to make a reservation, as basically all booking engines boycott Belarus). Otherwise, camping is legal in Belarus, and nowhere seems to be written that the national park is an exception. That said, a visit is easier from the Polish side, with daily buses from Warsaw and Bialystok and plenty more accommodation options.
 
 
Brest
  
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I almost skipped Brest. Luckily, my dear and only Belarusian travel friend (out there in the world to understandably escape Belarusian military service, which equals the unwanted task to fight Ukraine) told me not to. The “history of the place” alone was worth the journey, he stated, as this is supposed to be one of the oldest cities in Belarus. Interesting thought in a way, as Belarus only exists as an officially independent nation since 1991… and for 1 year in 1918, but that year Brest fell outside of the Belarusian territory and was still a part of Poland (and it’s definitely not Poland’s oldest city). That said, the foundations of that one year of independence were made in Brest, where the Treaty of Brest-Litovsk was signed. Another key role in history is taken by the Brest Fortress, built in the 19th century by the Russian Empire (who took down the Polish Royal Castle and most of Brest Old Town to the create space for it). It was however during WWII that it served as a strong defence against the Nazi army, during the first German battle of Operation Barbarossa which was aimed to invade soviet territory to eradicate communism (incl. all people falling under it). Let’s say, the commies know how to keep the memory alive. The soldier statue on the vast area that forms the Memorial Complex Brest Hero Fortress is one of the most gigantic ones in my personal memory reach.
 
Church for scale:
Even though the fort clearly functions as the main attraction in town, it was something else that forms my core memory of Brest: the Lamplighter on Sovetskaja Street. A man who might be as old as his trade comes out every evening to light the oil lamps manually, one by one, visibly taking great pride in his work. The time of this “event” is daily displayed on a big clock at the street head. If you follow this long and pedestrian-friendly avenue, you can also find the Happy Boot Statue, said to bring great economic success once stepping inside of them. I didn’t, so I have always someone else to blame… indeed a gift of great value. Other fun statues include the one of Le Petit Prince, which has no relationship to Belarus whatsoever, and Yuri Gagarin (who’s also not from Brest nor Belarus) hidden in some religious display. Yuri, the first human to successfully travel to space, is rather popular here though: Kafe Gagarin is also entirely themed around the Soviet astronaut. Another unusual stop is the Museum of Confiscated Art, displaying solely objects and artworks that outlaws attempted to smuggle across the border, which is only a stone’s throw away from Brest’s centre. Which are… mainly religious icons. And a bunch of Japanese vases, landscape paintings and random antiques. I can think of stuff more exciting to break the law for, honestly… but I guess it’s a nice angle for an art museum.
 
 
!!! Note that at the time of writing, Brest was the only open land border towards Poland. Waiting times to get across varied between 10-30hrs. Conditions change constantly due to the instable political situation. Check updates before departure.
 
 

FREE Sights / Activities

  • Sights: Memorial Complex Brest Hero Fortress, Sovetskaya Street, Lamplighter, Gogolya Street, Happy Boot Statue, Monument of the Lover, Millenium Monument, Lights Alley, Lenin Square, Kafe Gagarin, St. Nicholas Cathedral & more churches.
  • Hikes / Nature: City Park, Bialowieza Forest.
 

PAID Sights / Activities
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  • Museums: Brest Railway Museum, Historical and Memorial Museum Nemtsevichi Estate, Berestye Archeaological Museum, War Museum – Territory of the World, Museum of Confiscated Art, Brest Regional Local Lore Museum, Brest City History Museum, Museum of Cosmonautics Tomashovka.
Quick Budget Fact Overview
Belarus Facts

  • Capital: Minsk
  • Language: Russian, Belarusian
  • Population: ± 9.2 mln
  • Sq km: ± 207,600 (Warsaw: 517.2)
  • Currency: Belarusian Ruble (Br - BYN)
  • Electricity Outlet: C + F / 220 V / 50 Hz. Check here. 
  • Country Code Phone: +375
  • Emergency Phone: 102 (police), 103 (ambulance), 101 (fire)
  • Visa: 30 visa-free days for most nationalities if you enter via Minsk International Airport. However, all flights from and to Europe from Belarus are suspended. 
  • Vaccinations: None.
  • Climate: Continental Climate (Dfb)
  • High season: Summer – but foreign tourism is basically non-existent in Belarus

 
Short History Recap

1918: End WWI, independence as Belarusian National Republic. ’19: Russian Red Army conquers Belarus again and establishes communist rule. ’21: Treaty of Riga divides Belarus between Poland and Russia. ‘30s: Elimination of intellectuals and political opponents under Stalin →100,000+ people executed in Belarus, 1000s sent to labour camps. ’41: WWII, Nazi Germany invades. More than 1mln million killed. ’44: Red Army drives Germans out. 60s: Policy of Russification: Belarusian language and culture second-class status. ’86: Belarus heavily affected by Chernobyl disaster → 20% of agricultural land contaminated. ’88: Belarusian Popular Front / nationalist revival. ’90: Belarusian becomes official state language. ’91: Belarus declares independence as Soviet Union breaks up. ’94: Lukashenko wins first presidential election, campaign against corruption and re-establishing close ties with Russia. ’95: Friendship and cooperation pact signed with Russia. Referendums restore Russian as co-official language, boost presidential powers. ’96: Economic union signed with Russia. ’98: Belarusian rubble value halved. Food rationing imposed. 2001: Lukashenko re-elected undemocratically. ’02: Lukashenko rejects Russian proposals for unified government and parliament. ’04: Referendum allows president to serve more than previous limit of 2 terms, opposition gets zero seats. Rigged elections keeping Lukashenko in power continue for another 20 years, always followed by demonstrations and mass arrests. ’06:EU imposes visa ban on Lukashenko and numerous ministers and officials. New media law restricting online reporting and private media funding. ’10: Tensions with Russia over gas dispute. ’11: Explosion busy metro station in Minsk. Devaluation of rubble against the dollar by 36%. Hundreds beaten and arrested after a month of nationwide anti-government protests. ’12: New law restricts access to foreign websites & forces internet cafes to report users visiting sites registered abroad. ’18: Scandal involving embezzlement of funds from the health service. ’22: Belarusian government allows its territory to be used by Russia's army to launch attacks into Ukraine. Most Belarusians are against it, but expressing that opinion can result in arrest, jail time and blacklisting. 
Budget Bites

  • Main Supermarket Chains Croatia: Santa, Europt, Korona, Almi, Gyppo, Belmarket, Vitalur, Radzivillovsky, Preston, Sosedi, Prostore, Bigzz, Green.
  • Local Dishes: Draniki / Дранікі (potato pancakes), Lakshini / Лакшыны (milk soup with potato starch), Zhur / Жур (sour cereal soup), Machanka / Мачанка (cheesy stew with meat), Piachista / Пячыста (meat platter), Grechaniki / Гречанікі (buckwheat patties), Verashchaka / Верашчака (pork ribs), Blini / Бліны (thick pancakes), Syrniki / Сырники (quark pancakes), Lazanki / Лазанки (pasta), Babka / Бабка (grated potato pie), Vareniki / Вареники (stuffed dumplings), Pelmeni / Пельмени (stuffed dumplings), Zacirka / Зацірка (noodle soup), Halushki / Галушки (thick, non-stuffed noodles), Kalduni / Калдуны (stuffed dough dumplings), Shuba / Шуба (Russian herring salad with beets), Kletski / Клецкий (boiled flour balls), Smazhenka / Смаженка (Belarusian pizza with potato base), Tsibriki / Цибрики (potato balls).
  • The Veg Situation: Going veg is pretty easy in Europe and also in Belarus. Every supermarket has its own vegan/vegetarian section and there are quite some restaurants… check them here. Some veg traditional Belarusian dishes: Draniki / Дранікі, Lakshini / Лакшыны, Zhur / Жур, Grechaniki / Гречанікі, Blini / Бліны, Syrniki / Сырники, Kletski / Клецкий, Tsibriki / Цибрики.
  • National Drink: Krambambulia / Крамбамбуля (alcoholic mix drink containing red wine and liquors), Sbiten / Збіцень (hot winter beverage), Kisel / Кісель (frozen berries and potato starch).


Sleep Cheap
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  • Hostels / Hotels / Guesthouses: Hostels and alternative accommodation are pretty cheap in Belarus. However, all main booking engines boycott Belarus, except one: Hotels.com. The other option is to google accommodations and contact them (in Russian) for a reservation. Writer’s choice: I stayed in Andrew Loft Hostel, a very cheap option at a central location.
  • Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost (unless you put a third-world country as homebase), but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate review explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored). The Couchsurfing community in Belarus is a very active one and the competition is basically zero, as there hardly aren’t any other travelers. If your’re bikepacking you can also look into Warm Showers, which is a bikepacking community focussing on 1-night stays.
  • Wild Camping: is permitted on forest and public land.  
Mama Said

  • Safety: The biggest threat in Belarus comes from its own totalitarian government. Arrest and imprisonment for perceived anti-governmental actions and expressed opinions doesn’t exclude foreign visitors. Stay low-key and try to refrain from openly expressing political opinions in public. Belarus is a heavily policed state, which does result in a low crime rate. You can probably leave your wallet on the ground in the middle of downtown Minsk, and no one would touch it out of fear of the consequences (cameras everywhere).
  • Tap Water: is safe to drink. 
  • Credit cards: Check with your bank or credit card company if they operate in Belarus, as many of them don’t with the current political situation. If they do, verify the commission and exchange rate, as they tend to be unfavorable. It is usually cheaper to bring a stash of cash in dollars/euros to bring to the exchange offices in Belarus (much better rates here).
  • Simcard: Public wifi is pretty terrible in Belarus. They all require time-consuming registration and once that’s finally done it usually still doesn’t work. Buying a local simcard is therefore recommended, especially since Belarus is not part of the EU and your international roaming won’t work here. The main providers are Live, A1, or MTS. Unlike many other countries, they don’t sell simcards in kiosks, gas stations or supermarkets. You have to go to a flagship store of the phone brand and not even all of them can help you (only the second one would sell one to me). Your passport is requiered. I used Live, which allegedly has he smallest network but the best rates, and I had coverage all over Belarus.


Transport
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  • Walking: Minsk is a very big city and distances might be rather large for the average walker. Yet, if you take public transport to the separate areas, explorations can easily be done on foot within the area.
  • Cycling: Cycling is an option in summer time, when there’s no heavy snowfall. Minsk has a few bicycle lanes. Keep in mind that it’s not a very common way to get around and vehicles might not necessarily be very mindful of cyclists.     
  • Public transport within the city: Minsk has a very cheap and efficient metro system, for which you buy coins at the vending desks at the station. Minsk also has an urban train, connecting Minsk Pasažyrski with Ždanovičy and the Minsk Sea. Minsk as well as other big cities have trams, trolleybuses and an extensive bus network of city buses and minibuses (called “mashrutkas”). Smaller destinations only have buses and minibuses. Tickets can be bought in a vending kiosk at the stop, from the conductor or from the driver. Some transportation options in the cities accept card or phone payment, but generally it’s cash only. There are also tickets available with a certain amount of trips, or with unlimited trips for a certain amount of days. In Minsk there is also an option to buy a swipe-card (money refunded when you return the card), which includes all modes of transport and gives even cheaper rates. On the buses, the letter “C” (3-c) marks rapidness: it skips several stops on the standard route. The letter “Э” (3-э) is for express buses, the fastest option, for which you need a different, more expensive ticket. Tickets need to be validated in the yellow validator box. Google Maps or Moovit don’t properly work here, bute the Yandex app gives accurate information on routes.
  • Public transport from city to city: Intercity bus tickets can be bought at the bus station, which is located next to the Plosca Lienina metro station and Vakzal metro stop. Online payment is usually only reserved for Belarusian credit cards, and all websites are exclusively in Russian, unneccesarily compicating things. Besides big buses, there are also minibuses (mashrutakas) driving from city to city. As a foreigner who doesn’t speak the language, I found the minibus system incredibly complicated. You have to reserve them on the phone somehow, speaking Russian, and then go to a very unclear and unmarked stop somewhere at a roadside that you simply “have to know”. I have missed multiple of these reserved buses, even with the help of locals. I highly prefer line buses leaving from an obvious bus station, or a train.
  • Taxi / Uber: The local taxi app is called Yandex Taxi. It’s very affordable.
  • Train: Traveling by train is one of the best ways to get around in Belarus. It’s comfortable, reliable and cheap. Prices and travel times vary quite a bit, depending on what type of train and what seat you choose. There are Urban Lines, Regional Lines and Interregional Lines. There are also different seats and classes available, many even offering you a full bed or bench for yourself. It’s best to buy the tickets at least a day ahead in the train station, having your info translated in advance (I’ve never encountered a single train station employee that speaks english). You can also book online or by phone with delivery (by actual paper mail) or pickup, but this just seems like extra steps. The website in Russian and Belarusian can be found here.
  • Car Rental: This is pretty complicated to arrange, as most booking engines that facilitate car rental when traveling are boycotted in Belarus as well. You must contact a local company (in Russian) to get a quote.
  • Airport: National Airport Minsk (MSQ). There are currently no European flights serving Belarus. 
  • Hitchhiking: is relatively common and easy in Belarus. I hitchhiked on several occasions and I always managed with relative ease (as a woman alone). More info on hitchhiking in Belarus can be found on Hitchwiki. 


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