Cross-Canada Cycle Journey 2:
British Columbia
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One week had passed. The initial excitement and anticipation had made place for an (equally exciting) understanding of this escapade-on-wheels. I went from “hmm, I wonder what I got myself into” to a “wow, I can’t believe I got myself into this.” I had never cycled long-distance before, and I had not the slightest clue what it would do to my brain and body… yet, while my body went through the painful process of adjusting, initially growing weaker before strength would build up, my mind seemed to grow more vigorous and persistent by the day. I went into this adventure with a laidback attitude, conscious of me not having to proof shit to anyone: If this turns out to not be for me, I have zero constraint selling my bike and doing something else. Yet, once I saw Prince Rupert approaching through the morning mist, I felt it. This was not just the sequence of British Columbia, one of Canada’s most enchanting provinces, I was about to embark on my route all the way towards the Atlantic. I was ready.
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Day 8: Prince Rupert – Skeena River Ecological Reserve
Distance: 85.9km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt, mostly with shoulder. Moderately hilly around Prince Rupert, but once you’re out of town it’s pretty much flat.
Views: City, provincial park / nature.
Water Situation: Shops available in Prince Rupert. Filtering possible from many lakes, rivers and waterfalls along the way,
Food Situation: Supermarkets and convenience stores in Prince Rupert. After that nothing. The only accommodation, Kasiks Wilderness Resort, has a tiny shop with a limited selection, open until 4pm.
(Cloudy, rainy, tailwind)
Today went by in a breeze. A breeze in the back, as I was blessed with a full-on tailwind. It balanced out the anticipation of heavy rainfall, a characteristic that marks the town of Prince Rupert. I mean, I still got drenched cycling from the ferry terminal to my Air BnB the night before (after which I had a warm shower waiting for me), and I kicked off the first kilometres of Northern BC right through the drizzle… but honestly, it wasn’t all that bad. Same goes for the expected “monster hill” I was allegedly about to face, according to the horrifying tales of fellow cyclists heading into the opposite direction. I didn’t allow myself a pause before I’d knock that bastard out… but 40km in I realised my Vancouver Island “training week” was already paying off, as I just didn’t consider that little bump close to Rupert anything strenuous. Honestly, it’s hard to feel bothered by any external conditions, while your eyes are constantly distracting your brain by taking in the downright fairytale that is Northern BC. Good lawd! Attempting to describe the pure natural glory of this location is by default a gross underestimation. This is what I came to Canada for. The rugged snowy peaks, escorted by crystal clear lakes and bushes of green pine stretching out like the mountain’s red carpets… the whole ordeal. Yeah sure, Canada’s cities are “fine I guess”, and it’s very hard to dig up some constructive criticism about the lavishly lush Vancouver Island… but this, THIS!!! Otherworldly. Yeah sure, this detour easily added another 1500-2000km to the equation, opposed to a Vancouver-start… but man, if this is what it was going to be like the next few weeks, I’d want every kilometre to take a decade. Judging by how often I abruptly pushed the brakes to get off my bike and take a hundred photos, it very well might. I passed places called Kaien Island (with Prince Rupert located right on it), Diana Lake Provincial Park, Prudhomme Lake Provincial Park. Gamble Creek Ecological Reserve, the Skeena Bank Conservancy and the Lower Skeena River which I’d be following the days to come…
Grateful is the word that describes today. Canada, thank you for being so overwhelmingly generous, it almost feels like you’re immediately overplaying your hand.
Distance: 85.9km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt, mostly with shoulder. Moderately hilly around Prince Rupert, but once you’re out of town it’s pretty much flat.
Views: City, provincial park / nature.
Water Situation: Shops available in Prince Rupert. Filtering possible from many lakes, rivers and waterfalls along the way,
Food Situation: Supermarkets and convenience stores in Prince Rupert. After that nothing. The only accommodation, Kasiks Wilderness Resort, has a tiny shop with a limited selection, open until 4pm.
(Cloudy, rainy, tailwind)
Today went by in a breeze. A breeze in the back, as I was blessed with a full-on tailwind. It balanced out the anticipation of heavy rainfall, a characteristic that marks the town of Prince Rupert. I mean, I still got drenched cycling from the ferry terminal to my Air BnB the night before (after which I had a warm shower waiting for me), and I kicked off the first kilometres of Northern BC right through the drizzle… but honestly, it wasn’t all that bad. Same goes for the expected “monster hill” I was allegedly about to face, according to the horrifying tales of fellow cyclists heading into the opposite direction. I didn’t allow myself a pause before I’d knock that bastard out… but 40km in I realised my Vancouver Island “training week” was already paying off, as I just didn’t consider that little bump close to Rupert anything strenuous. Honestly, it’s hard to feel bothered by any external conditions, while your eyes are constantly distracting your brain by taking in the downright fairytale that is Northern BC. Good lawd! Attempting to describe the pure natural glory of this location is by default a gross underestimation. This is what I came to Canada for. The rugged snowy peaks, escorted by crystal clear lakes and bushes of green pine stretching out like the mountain’s red carpets… the whole ordeal. Yeah sure, Canada’s cities are “fine I guess”, and it’s very hard to dig up some constructive criticism about the lavishly lush Vancouver Island… but this, THIS!!! Otherworldly. Yeah sure, this detour easily added another 1500-2000km to the equation, opposed to a Vancouver-start… but man, if this is what it was going to be like the next few weeks, I’d want every kilometre to take a decade. Judging by how often I abruptly pushed the brakes to get off my bike and take a hundred photos, it very well might. I passed places called Kaien Island (with Prince Rupert located right on it), Diana Lake Provincial Park, Prudhomme Lake Provincial Park. Gamble Creek Ecological Reserve, the Skeena Bank Conservancy and the Lower Skeena River which I’d be following the days to come…
Grateful is the word that describes today. Canada, thank you for being so overwhelmingly generous, it almost feels like you’re immediately overplaying your hand.
Day 9: Skeena River Ecological Reserve – Terrace (half day)
Distance: 61.4km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt, mostly with shoulder. Mainly flat, except of the last part leading up to Terrace (long hill with strenuous sections).
Views: Provincial park / nature, river, city.
Water Situation: At the start in Kasiks Wilderness Resort. Plenty of lakes, streams and a river to filter from along the way. Then you’ll have shops again in Terrace.
Food Situation: Little shop with limited items at the Kasiks Wilderness Resort. Supermarkets and convenience stores in Terrace.
(Cloudy, rainy, tail- and side wind)
I’m a big lover of wild camping. Both of the money-saving aspect, as well as of the thrill of remoteness and adventure. Yet, at this point I was still (for the last two days) cycling with a sidekick who didn’t share that same enthusiasm. So we went “glamping.” I’m not cool enough to know exactly what that meant, but it turned out to refer to the luxury of not having to set up and break down your own tent in Northern BC’s pouring rain. Indeed, an act of poor misery. Packing up your bike in a drenching monsoon is depressing as is, no need to ruin the morning any further. Luckily, we only had half a day of soaked-cycling ahead of us. Not because we felt like we really needed the break (although my groin-region might have argued otherwise), but because it worked out that way with the accommodation. A cheerful musician-meets-gardener-couple had invited us to stay over in their hometown Terrace, and as I already had grown out to be a loyal fan of the Canadian population, I felt like grabbing any opportunity to hang out with its members.
Although wet, the journey was a continuation of yesterday’s bliss, the shorter distance allowing for more thorough breaks at the many rest stops* and lookout points. My brain even found a way to be appreciative of the weather conditions, as it in fact enhanced the scenery by adding mystique to those entrancing mountain tops, now ornamented with thin-clouded halos. A live-action aquarelle painting.
* British Columbia’s rest stops truly are something else. Whereas in Europe I’m used to those grey, uninspiring highway-pullovers, characterized by a bunch of litter and pissed-over toilets… here any rest-stop-view can be sent in straight to the National Geographic Magazine.
Distance: 61.4km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt, mostly with shoulder. Mainly flat, except of the last part leading up to Terrace (long hill with strenuous sections).
Views: Provincial park / nature, river, city.
Water Situation: At the start in Kasiks Wilderness Resort. Plenty of lakes, streams and a river to filter from along the way. Then you’ll have shops again in Terrace.
Food Situation: Little shop with limited items at the Kasiks Wilderness Resort. Supermarkets and convenience stores in Terrace.
(Cloudy, rainy, tail- and side wind)
I’m a big lover of wild camping. Both of the money-saving aspect, as well as of the thrill of remoteness and adventure. Yet, at this point I was still (for the last two days) cycling with a sidekick who didn’t share that same enthusiasm. So we went “glamping.” I’m not cool enough to know exactly what that meant, but it turned out to refer to the luxury of not having to set up and break down your own tent in Northern BC’s pouring rain. Indeed, an act of poor misery. Packing up your bike in a drenching monsoon is depressing as is, no need to ruin the morning any further. Luckily, we only had half a day of soaked-cycling ahead of us. Not because we felt like we really needed the break (although my groin-region might have argued otherwise), but because it worked out that way with the accommodation. A cheerful musician-meets-gardener-couple had invited us to stay over in their hometown Terrace, and as I already had grown out to be a loyal fan of the Canadian population, I felt like grabbing any opportunity to hang out with its members.
Although wet, the journey was a continuation of yesterday’s bliss, the shorter distance allowing for more thorough breaks at the many rest stops* and lookout points. My brain even found a way to be appreciative of the weather conditions, as it in fact enhanced the scenery by adding mystique to those entrancing mountain tops, now ornamented with thin-clouded halos. A live-action aquarelle painting.
* British Columbia’s rest stops truly are something else. Whereas in Europe I’m used to those grey, uninspiring highway-pullovers, characterized by a bunch of litter and pissed-over toilets… here any rest-stop-view can be sent in straight to the National Geographic Magazine.
Day 10: Terrace - Kitwanga
Distance: 105.2km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with shoulder.
Views: City, provincial park / nature, mountains.
Water Situation: At the start in Terrace you’ll find shops. Plenty of streams to filter from along the way. Then there are shops again in Kitwanga.
Food Situation: Terrace has a lot of options. Then there's nothing the entire way, besides a roadside restaurant in Cedarvale which might or might not be open. There are 2 small shops in Kitwanga, and the gas station at the junction has a small shop and restaurant.
(Cloudy, turning winds)
Day 10, a milestone! Time to pump up the pace a little bit. While my body was still processing the shock to the system of just ploughing away on a bicycle all day every day without any prior warning, my mind was way ahead of the game, ready to grab this exciting cycling adventure firmly by the balls. “What about 100+ kilometres, you weakling” – it shouted to my body… who had no choice but following its cruel master.
Today Kleanza Creek Provincial Park (home to some waterfall trails if you experience a surplus of energy) and the Seven Sisters Protected Area were on the menu, providing ridiculously scenic picnic stops in case it’s that time of day. Along the way I also bumped into a church-for-midgets, as Canada’s politeness of course also caters to its XXS-sized-citizens, as well as a memorial to the men (and women?) who lost their lives working in the forest industry. Another eyebrow-raising sight came in terms of the ongoing sequence of larger-than-life-trains who kept wobbling passed on this trajectory, a takeover that sometimes took well over half an hour. Canada owns the longest trains I’ve ever seen in the 88 countries I visited until that moment, for whatever it’s worth! I even ran into a bunch of Dutchies, impossible to avoid in whatever far corner on Earth you happen to run to (together with ze Germans and les French - they’re bloody everywhere, like some indelible modern-age colonialism). The day was concluded at Kitwanga Centennial Park, a donation-based community campground, created and passionately maintained by its caring residents.
Distance: 105.2km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with shoulder.
Views: City, provincial park / nature, mountains.
Water Situation: At the start in Terrace you’ll find shops. Plenty of streams to filter from along the way. Then there are shops again in Kitwanga.
Food Situation: Terrace has a lot of options. Then there's nothing the entire way, besides a roadside restaurant in Cedarvale which might or might not be open. There are 2 small shops in Kitwanga, and the gas station at the junction has a small shop and restaurant.
(Cloudy, turning winds)
Day 10, a milestone! Time to pump up the pace a little bit. While my body was still processing the shock to the system of just ploughing away on a bicycle all day every day without any prior warning, my mind was way ahead of the game, ready to grab this exciting cycling adventure firmly by the balls. “What about 100+ kilometres, you weakling” – it shouted to my body… who had no choice but following its cruel master.
Today Kleanza Creek Provincial Park (home to some waterfall trails if you experience a surplus of energy) and the Seven Sisters Protected Area were on the menu, providing ridiculously scenic picnic stops in case it’s that time of day. Along the way I also bumped into a church-for-midgets, as Canada’s politeness of course also caters to its XXS-sized-citizens, as well as a memorial to the men (and women?) who lost their lives working in the forest industry. Another eyebrow-raising sight came in terms of the ongoing sequence of larger-than-life-trains who kept wobbling passed on this trajectory, a takeover that sometimes took well over half an hour. Canada owns the longest trains I’ve ever seen in the 88 countries I visited until that moment, for whatever it’s worth! I even ran into a bunch of Dutchies, impossible to avoid in whatever far corner on Earth you happen to run to (together with ze Germans and les French - they’re bloody everywhere, like some indelible modern-age colonialism). The day was concluded at Kitwanga Centennial Park, a donation-based community campground, created and passionately maintained by its caring residents.
Day 11: Kitwanga - Smithers
Distance: 119.8km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with shoulder.
Views: City, provincial park / nature, mountains.
Water Situation: Kitwanga has 2 small shops and a gas station. More shops and gas stations can be found in Hazelton, Morristown and Smithers. There are streams and lakes along the way to filter from.
Food Situation: Kitwanga, Hazelton, Morristown and the bigger town of Smithers.
(Cloudy, drizzle, turning winds)
It was still early in the season, which in Canada means: Cold. Freezing, frosty cold! The temperatures easily dipped below zero last night, which I tried to compensate for by spreading my silver foil emergency blanket out on the ground of my tent. An improvised solution with alright’ish results. Yet, in the morning I felt little eagerness to brew my breakfast together in the chilly morning breeze… so I cycled back to the junction, where a lowkey roadside restaurant was hiding in the shadow of a gas station. Nothing special to the average Canadian, but incredibly special to me, as it had those classic booths we Europeans only know from the movies (like in Grease or Pulp Fiction). I adore the privacy and snugness of that setup, plus: no one would see the sauce dripping of my chin while trying to smash down my family-sized “breakfast for champions”, probably the largest plate of food I ever consumed before 9AM. God knows I needed it, as I was about to slam out my longest cycling day in my entire personal history: 120km. A distance that grew out to be my average, but at this point of my journey it was unfathomable. To fool my own brain I tried to divide it up in chunks of 30km, pretending the rest of the distance was irrelevant in this moment of my existence. Micro-goal to micro-goal. Yet, as the elevation gain was double-screwing me, even the sub-goals felt like an eternity. I tried to keep reminding myself that all of that uphill will be compensated for by the time I’d reach the flatter-than-flat Prairies, where I’ll eventually have to get down to. You’ll be rewarded for this heavy labour!
Exhaustedly I paused for lunch in Seeley Lake Provincial Park, providing not only a campsite but also a ridiculously scenic picnic area. More natural glory was about to come my way, including the Ross Lake Provincial Park and Catherine Creek Ecological Reserve, but most certainly also everything in between. You gotta believe me folks, even as a memory, this place on earth does not feel real. I must’ve dreamt it, I keep thinking, but then I see the photos and DARN… I have actually, physically been there! Sometimes I cycle around the corner and scream. Beauty intake overload!
I ended the day in the pleasant, semi-Dutch/German settlement of Smithers, full of crafty coffeeshops and psychedelic street art. Couchsurfing had a bed for me at the home of a retired hunter’s couple. A truly unusual experience, as not only did I eat moose for the first time in my life, I also slept under the skin of a dead bison.
Distance: 119.8km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with shoulder.
Views: City, provincial park / nature, mountains.
Water Situation: Kitwanga has 2 small shops and a gas station. More shops and gas stations can be found in Hazelton, Morristown and Smithers. There are streams and lakes along the way to filter from.
Food Situation: Kitwanga, Hazelton, Morristown and the bigger town of Smithers.
(Cloudy, drizzle, turning winds)
It was still early in the season, which in Canada means: Cold. Freezing, frosty cold! The temperatures easily dipped below zero last night, which I tried to compensate for by spreading my silver foil emergency blanket out on the ground of my tent. An improvised solution with alright’ish results. Yet, in the morning I felt little eagerness to brew my breakfast together in the chilly morning breeze… so I cycled back to the junction, where a lowkey roadside restaurant was hiding in the shadow of a gas station. Nothing special to the average Canadian, but incredibly special to me, as it had those classic booths we Europeans only know from the movies (like in Grease or Pulp Fiction). I adore the privacy and snugness of that setup, plus: no one would see the sauce dripping of my chin while trying to smash down my family-sized “breakfast for champions”, probably the largest plate of food I ever consumed before 9AM. God knows I needed it, as I was about to slam out my longest cycling day in my entire personal history: 120km. A distance that grew out to be my average, but at this point of my journey it was unfathomable. To fool my own brain I tried to divide it up in chunks of 30km, pretending the rest of the distance was irrelevant in this moment of my existence. Micro-goal to micro-goal. Yet, as the elevation gain was double-screwing me, even the sub-goals felt like an eternity. I tried to keep reminding myself that all of that uphill will be compensated for by the time I’d reach the flatter-than-flat Prairies, where I’ll eventually have to get down to. You’ll be rewarded for this heavy labour!
Exhaustedly I paused for lunch in Seeley Lake Provincial Park, providing not only a campsite but also a ridiculously scenic picnic area. More natural glory was about to come my way, including the Ross Lake Provincial Park and Catherine Creek Ecological Reserve, but most certainly also everything in between. You gotta believe me folks, even as a memory, this place on earth does not feel real. I must’ve dreamt it, I keep thinking, but then I see the photos and DARN… I have actually, physically been there! Sometimes I cycle around the corner and scream. Beauty intake overload!
I ended the day in the pleasant, semi-Dutch/German settlement of Smithers, full of crafty coffeeshops and psychedelic street art. Couchsurfing had a bed for me at the home of a retired hunter’s couple. A truly unusual experience, as not only did I eat moose for the first time in my life, I also slept under the skin of a dead bison.
Rest Day: Smithers / Telkwa Area
(41.2km)
My excitement might’ve gotten the best of me. Even though my legs and body were growing in strength, my left knee decided to ruin the show. I had felt an annoyance turning into mild pain in the background, which in its turn developed into unignorable agony smack-bam in the foreground. I needed to listen to my body if I was going to see the end of this trip. So I did the impossible, if your name is Stephanie van Hoeijen: I took a rest day… ‘ish. I decided to cycle to the Happy Pig Farm, about 40km down the road, where an invitation of a Warm Showers rancher’s couple was outstanding. Sure, if I can rest my knee while feeding on phenomenal organic meals straight from farm to plate, why not? The pauses between the meals were filled with live-watching calves being born, in all their horrific bloody glory, and reaching blinding speeds sliding through the valley on a home-built zipline. And the nights? Spent in a refurbished yellow schoolbus, which they turned into an apartment. Sometimes I shake my head while watching the mirror. I can’t believe this is my day-to-day-life, for 10 years straight now.
The Happy Pig Farm takes WOOFers and WorkAway-volunteers as well. Check it out!
(41.2km)
My excitement might’ve gotten the best of me. Even though my legs and body were growing in strength, my left knee decided to ruin the show. I had felt an annoyance turning into mild pain in the background, which in its turn developed into unignorable agony smack-bam in the foreground. I needed to listen to my body if I was going to see the end of this trip. So I did the impossible, if your name is Stephanie van Hoeijen: I took a rest day… ‘ish. I decided to cycle to the Happy Pig Farm, about 40km down the road, where an invitation of a Warm Showers rancher’s couple was outstanding. Sure, if I can rest my knee while feeding on phenomenal organic meals straight from farm to plate, why not? The pauses between the meals were filled with live-watching calves being born, in all their horrific bloody glory, and reaching blinding speeds sliding through the valley on a home-built zipline. And the nights? Spent in a refurbished yellow schoolbus, which they turned into an apartment. Sometimes I shake my head while watching the mirror. I can’t believe this is my day-to-day-life, for 10 years straight now.
The Happy Pig Farm takes WOOFers and WorkAway-volunteers as well. Check it out!
Day 12: Telkwa – Rose Lake
Distance: 84.6km.
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with shoulder.
Views: Nature, hills, villages.
Water Situation: Shops and gas stations can be found in Telkwa, Houston and Topley. There are streams and lakes along the way to filter from.
Food Situation: Stores in Telkwa, Houston (huge supermarkets) and Topley.
(Sunny, turning winds but mainly tailwind)
I took a kinda-rest-day, so in return I expected the universe to grant me a full-functioning knee. I’m too impatient of an individual to wait any longer. Unfortunately, life doesn’t work that way. It felt promising in the morning, after yet another mouth-watering farm meal to start the day, but once I stood on top of the Hungry Hill I realized my knee was going to party-poop the hell out of today as well. I did this wretched hill though! Locals had been building up the suspense for days now, giving the menacing Hungry Hill an almost mythical status. They weren’t lying, it was quite the beast with many ‘sub-hills’, constantly creating the illusion that you made it, while in reality you’re not even halfway… but it was only a mild introduction to the Canadian Rockies that were shortly awaiting my arrival. That’s a problem for later though, first I had to get to Rose Lake. To Sergi.
To whom? Oh yeah, sorry, rude. I forgot to mention that another Couchsurfer had written me and was eager to hang out. The honor was all mine though, as this Spanish man and fellow bike tourer truly walked (or rode) the talk. The good lad started his cycle adventure in Ushuaia, southern Patagonia/Argentina (a place where I also left some fond memories) and made it all the way up to Canada already, on his way to Alaska. He had been at it for no less than 16 months already… and I didn’t even drive 16 days yet! At the same time, he shared that he cycled an average 1500km per month, which I had done already in less than 2 weeks without prior cycle experience… it did put my knee problem in perspective.
I did not arrive in time. It couldn’t be blamed entirely on my knee, nor on the Six Mile Hill that had been hovering above my subconsciousness like some pitch dark thundercloud. The reason was of a more fun nature: I was invited for a healthy lunch buffet in Houston, by acquaintances of my Smithers-hosts. A cheerful retired couple, also balls-deep into cycling (they traversed entire Canadian provinces on a tandem). Upon my arrival, they turned out to have invited half of the neighbourhood to hear my story, as nothing much seems to happen in Houston. Full-blown Leo over here: I have no issue being in the shiny centre of attention, I’ll entertain! I hung around for three hours, I could hardly peel myself away from there… my entire cycle trip seems to be one big social event on wheels, and I am in full support of the fact.
Distance: 84.6km.
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with shoulder.
Views: Nature, hills, villages.
Water Situation: Shops and gas stations can be found in Telkwa, Houston and Topley. There are streams and lakes along the way to filter from.
Food Situation: Stores in Telkwa, Houston (huge supermarkets) and Topley.
(Sunny, turning winds but mainly tailwind)
I took a kinda-rest-day, so in return I expected the universe to grant me a full-functioning knee. I’m too impatient of an individual to wait any longer. Unfortunately, life doesn’t work that way. It felt promising in the morning, after yet another mouth-watering farm meal to start the day, but once I stood on top of the Hungry Hill I realized my knee was going to party-poop the hell out of today as well. I did this wretched hill though! Locals had been building up the suspense for days now, giving the menacing Hungry Hill an almost mythical status. They weren’t lying, it was quite the beast with many ‘sub-hills’, constantly creating the illusion that you made it, while in reality you’re not even halfway… but it was only a mild introduction to the Canadian Rockies that were shortly awaiting my arrival. That’s a problem for later though, first I had to get to Rose Lake. To Sergi.
To whom? Oh yeah, sorry, rude. I forgot to mention that another Couchsurfer had written me and was eager to hang out. The honor was all mine though, as this Spanish man and fellow bike tourer truly walked (or rode) the talk. The good lad started his cycle adventure in Ushuaia, southern Patagonia/Argentina (a place where I also left some fond memories) and made it all the way up to Canada already, on his way to Alaska. He had been at it for no less than 16 months already… and I didn’t even drive 16 days yet! At the same time, he shared that he cycled an average 1500km per month, which I had done already in less than 2 weeks without prior cycle experience… it did put my knee problem in perspective.
I did not arrive in time. It couldn’t be blamed entirely on my knee, nor on the Six Mile Hill that had been hovering above my subconsciousness like some pitch dark thundercloud. The reason was of a more fun nature: I was invited for a healthy lunch buffet in Houston, by acquaintances of my Smithers-hosts. A cheerful retired couple, also balls-deep into cycling (they traversed entire Canadian provinces on a tandem). Upon my arrival, they turned out to have invited half of the neighbourhood to hear my story, as nothing much seems to happen in Houston. Full-blown Leo over here: I have no issue being in the shiny centre of attention, I’ll entertain! I hung around for three hours, I could hardly peel myself away from there… my entire cycle trip seems to be one big social event on wheels, and I am in full support of the fact.
Day 13: Rose Lake – Fraser Lake
Distance: 99.1km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with shoulder, be it of rather poor quality.
Views: Nature, hills, villages.
Water Situation: Shops at Decker Lake (closed on Sunday), Burns Lake and Fraser Lake. There are streams and lakes along the way to filter from.
Food Situation: Small convenience store in Decker Lake. Burns Lake and Fraser Lake are bigger towns with more well-stocked supermarkets.
(Sunny, tailwind)
I hardly slept. The whole night through, my frozen feet kept waking me up. Also when I finally crawled out of my tent, I could scratch the ice of the tarp and bicycle bags with my nails. I am clearly not in some tropical destination, I’m in Canada, rather early in the season. While blowing hot air in our hands, Sergi and I stewed a breakfast together, positioned at one of the picnic tables at Rose Lake’s shore, while loudly reviewing the magnificence of our surroundings. He had little time to lose, as the wind was about to pick up, and today it wouldn’t be in his favor. Which meant good news for me, as I was headed in the opposite direction. Honestly, I could receive all the help I could get today, as my knee was not on Team Stephanie. Whereas the last couple of days it only started acting up after 40-50km, right now I hadn’t cycled a single meter and I was already limping. This was growing into a real problem, as the knee is rather crucial in the whole cycling ordeal.
It's nothing short of a miracle that I managed to reach Fraser Lake, about 100 clicks down the road. I tried everything to please the knee, the cruel dictator of my current existence… I moved my seat in different positions while furiously watching YouTube tutorials, I changed the pressure points of movement, I tried to distract myself by intensely staring at the extraordinary surroundings of gradual forests and hued hills (which worked a bit!). In the end, the answer seemed to be the Dutch approach: a good ol’ doobie! A fellow camper’s gift that had travelled with me all the way from Vancouver Island. It numbed the pain, fair enough, but man, it also numbed my entire sense of reality. I thought I was quite used to my homeland’s most famous commodity, but Canada doesn’t fuck around when it comes to weed. That shit’s strong over here! I wasn’t participating in the activity of cycling anymore, I was riding a fluorescent unicorn across some outer-galaxy. Don’t ask any details on how the day ended or how I set up camp, as I wasn’t quite there myself. All I know is that I woke up in a tent right under a gazebo, out of the wind, right next to picnic tables and public electricity plugs… a much better spot than the free Fraser Lake camping area about 20 meters away. Baked Steph’s got some vision!
Distance: 99.1km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with shoulder, be it of rather poor quality.
Views: Nature, hills, villages.
Water Situation: Shops at Decker Lake (closed on Sunday), Burns Lake and Fraser Lake. There are streams and lakes along the way to filter from.
Food Situation: Small convenience store in Decker Lake. Burns Lake and Fraser Lake are bigger towns with more well-stocked supermarkets.
(Sunny, tailwind)
I hardly slept. The whole night through, my frozen feet kept waking me up. Also when I finally crawled out of my tent, I could scratch the ice of the tarp and bicycle bags with my nails. I am clearly not in some tropical destination, I’m in Canada, rather early in the season. While blowing hot air in our hands, Sergi and I stewed a breakfast together, positioned at one of the picnic tables at Rose Lake’s shore, while loudly reviewing the magnificence of our surroundings. He had little time to lose, as the wind was about to pick up, and today it wouldn’t be in his favor. Which meant good news for me, as I was headed in the opposite direction. Honestly, I could receive all the help I could get today, as my knee was not on Team Stephanie. Whereas the last couple of days it only started acting up after 40-50km, right now I hadn’t cycled a single meter and I was already limping. This was growing into a real problem, as the knee is rather crucial in the whole cycling ordeal.
It's nothing short of a miracle that I managed to reach Fraser Lake, about 100 clicks down the road. I tried everything to please the knee, the cruel dictator of my current existence… I moved my seat in different positions while furiously watching YouTube tutorials, I changed the pressure points of movement, I tried to distract myself by intensely staring at the extraordinary surroundings of gradual forests and hued hills (which worked a bit!). In the end, the answer seemed to be the Dutch approach: a good ol’ doobie! A fellow camper’s gift that had travelled with me all the way from Vancouver Island. It numbed the pain, fair enough, but man, it also numbed my entire sense of reality. I thought I was quite used to my homeland’s most famous commodity, but Canada doesn’t fuck around when it comes to weed. That shit’s strong over here! I wasn’t participating in the activity of cycling anymore, I was riding a fluorescent unicorn across some outer-galaxy. Don’t ask any details on how the day ended or how I set up camp, as I wasn’t quite there myself. All I know is that I woke up in a tent right under a gazebo, out of the wind, right next to picnic tables and public electricity plugs… a much better spot than the free Fraser Lake camping area about 20 meters away. Baked Steph’s got some vision!
Day 14: Fraser Lake – Vanderhoof (half day + rest day)
Distance: 61.7km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with shoulder, but of rather poor quality.
Views: Nature, hills, villages.
Water Situation: Shops at Fraser Lake and downtown Vanderhoof (my route doesn’t go passed the latter). There are streams and lakes along the way to filter from.
Food Situation: Supermarkets at Fraser Lake and Vanderhoof.
(Cloudy with rain- and hail showers, tailwind)
Nothing frustrates me more than being confronted with my own weaknesses and limitations. I don’t mind if other people have their frailties, that’s none of my business… but ME, no!!! I ain’t got no time for that bullshit, just suck it the hell up. I have been screaming and scolding at my knee, I’ve hit it for vile punishment. What does it think it is, the pussy, slowing me down like that?! Annoyingly I had to conclude though that I actually had to nurse it back to health, instead of submitting it to a military bootcamp.
So well, I GUESS I’ll give that approach a go then (she said grumpily). First with a rest day in Vanderhoof*, upon invitation of two Dutch Canadians, and if that still doesn’t do the trick, with some more rest days in Prince George. I had the option to load my bicycle on the bus to Vanderhoof, and I was even offered a ride straight to Prince George, but no. Too proud. No matter in what miserable state I am, I have to cycle every single meter myself. “If not today, then tomorrow”, has been my mantra. My passport gets 6 months in Canada, I have time. I have nothing to proof to anyone but myself, but I’m my most critical supporter.
At a snail’s pace I reached the picturesque wooden house at the end of the farmland, built by John himself. He and his wife Marlinka grew up in Canada, but were born out of one of the many Dutch families that gratefully accepted Canada’s land-offer after our home country was destroyed by Nazi bombing during WWII. They never let go of the strong connection with the motherland. In fact, their house looked Dutcher than any Dutch house I’ve ever seen in the Netherlands. It felt like a small Holland-museum! From tulips to windmill-paintings and wooden clogs in every corner of the room, accompanied by an ongoing feast of Dutch delicacies and full-on-Dutch conversations. I don’t consider myself patriotic, but it’s hard not to get nostalgic!
* Even though Vanderhoof is a Dutch last name, correctly written as “van der Hoof” (“van der” means “from” the in Dutch), the town is actually named after the American publicity agent Herbert Vanderhoof from Chicago. In 1908 he led a major governmental campaign to draw settlers to western Canada… not only aimed at Dutchies, but at a wide variety of Europeans.
Distance: 61.7km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with shoulder, but of rather poor quality.
Views: Nature, hills, villages.
Water Situation: Shops at Fraser Lake and downtown Vanderhoof (my route doesn’t go passed the latter). There are streams and lakes along the way to filter from.
Food Situation: Supermarkets at Fraser Lake and Vanderhoof.
(Cloudy with rain- and hail showers, tailwind)
Nothing frustrates me more than being confronted with my own weaknesses and limitations. I don’t mind if other people have their frailties, that’s none of my business… but ME, no!!! I ain’t got no time for that bullshit, just suck it the hell up. I have been screaming and scolding at my knee, I’ve hit it for vile punishment. What does it think it is, the pussy, slowing me down like that?! Annoyingly I had to conclude though that I actually had to nurse it back to health, instead of submitting it to a military bootcamp.
So well, I GUESS I’ll give that approach a go then (she said grumpily). First with a rest day in Vanderhoof*, upon invitation of two Dutch Canadians, and if that still doesn’t do the trick, with some more rest days in Prince George. I had the option to load my bicycle on the bus to Vanderhoof, and I was even offered a ride straight to Prince George, but no. Too proud. No matter in what miserable state I am, I have to cycle every single meter myself. “If not today, then tomorrow”, has been my mantra. My passport gets 6 months in Canada, I have time. I have nothing to proof to anyone but myself, but I’m my most critical supporter.
At a snail’s pace I reached the picturesque wooden house at the end of the farmland, built by John himself. He and his wife Marlinka grew up in Canada, but were born out of one of the many Dutch families that gratefully accepted Canada’s land-offer after our home country was destroyed by Nazi bombing during WWII. They never let go of the strong connection with the motherland. In fact, their house looked Dutcher than any Dutch house I’ve ever seen in the Netherlands. It felt like a small Holland-museum! From tulips to windmill-paintings and wooden clogs in every corner of the room, accompanied by an ongoing feast of Dutch delicacies and full-on-Dutch conversations. I don’t consider myself patriotic, but it’s hard not to get nostalgic!
* Even though Vanderhoof is a Dutch last name, correctly written as “van der Hoof” (“van der” means “from” the in Dutch), the town is actually named after the American publicity agent Herbert Vanderhoof from Chicago. In 1908 he led a major governmental campaign to draw settlers to western Canada… not only aimed at Dutchies, but at a wide variety of Europeans.
Day 15: Vanderhoof – Prince George (several rest days)
Distance: 111.1km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with shoulder, but so incredibly narrow that you basically touch the cars with your shoulder. The last stretch to Prince George is horrific for cyclists, as the shoulder has big gravel humps every few meters. Worst stretch since the start of the trip.
Views: Nature, lakes, towns, city.
Water Situation: Shops at downtown Vanderhoof and Prince George, with occasional gas stations along the way. There are streams and lakes along the way to filter from, but I don’t recommend doing so anywhere near Prince George.
Food Situation: Supermarkets at Vanderhoof and many at the big town of Prince George. Some gas stations in between.
(Sunny, side- and tailwind)
I definitely felt progress after 48hrs under the caring wing of the Dutchies, who provided me not only with physical and mental rest, but also with massage appliances, a knee brace and various muscle creams. I needed it to physically prep for the next leg, as I had a good 111km to go before I’d reach my next rest-stop in Prince George. A strenuous stretch in the most negative sense of the word, as not only did the scenery disappoint after a week of overwhelming glory, the ”pull-over” strip (which in Canada is only created for cars, never with cyclists in mind) was so incredibly narrow and of poor quality that cyclists have a rather dangerous situation on their hands. Especially as this is an extremely busy 2-lane highway, and vehicles cannot pull over into the other lane even if they wanted to. In fact, truckers usually do: unlike their reputation, they’re in fact the politest road users of the country… but here they have no choice but race right passed you, rubbing your shoulders in the process due to the sheer shortage of space. Terrifying. And if that isn’t sorrowful enough, as you approach Prince George you’ll experience the fruit of some governmental labour, performed by a knucklehead workforce that evidently never rode a bike before: every 5 meters you’ll bounce over a gravel bump that is there for no identifiable reason. Misery on wheels.
Alas, I got there. Eventually. With a break every 10k, as my knee was stopping me on my behalf. It at least allowed me to check out the Nechako White Sturgeon Conservation Centre and the Bednesti Lake Ecological Reserve, where I may or may not have recorded a cougar staring at me (I was in full conviction of taking a photo of a deer, but evaluating the evidence it looks like I might’ve gotten lucky – cougars / pumas / mountain lions don’t exclude humans from their hunt). Barbara, a German expat with many a story, had offered me a couple of nights in her trailer in exchange for some help in the garden. Deal! I always like returning the favor of hospitality in any manner I can come up with, so I appreciated having this clearly defined in advance.
Distance: 111.1km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with shoulder, but so incredibly narrow that you basically touch the cars with your shoulder. The last stretch to Prince George is horrific for cyclists, as the shoulder has big gravel humps every few meters. Worst stretch since the start of the trip.
Views: Nature, lakes, towns, city.
Water Situation: Shops at downtown Vanderhoof and Prince George, with occasional gas stations along the way. There are streams and lakes along the way to filter from, but I don’t recommend doing so anywhere near Prince George.
Food Situation: Supermarkets at Vanderhoof and many at the big town of Prince George. Some gas stations in between.
(Sunny, side- and tailwind)
I definitely felt progress after 48hrs under the caring wing of the Dutchies, who provided me not only with physical and mental rest, but also with massage appliances, a knee brace and various muscle creams. I needed it to physically prep for the next leg, as I had a good 111km to go before I’d reach my next rest-stop in Prince George. A strenuous stretch in the most negative sense of the word, as not only did the scenery disappoint after a week of overwhelming glory, the ”pull-over” strip (which in Canada is only created for cars, never with cyclists in mind) was so incredibly narrow and of poor quality that cyclists have a rather dangerous situation on their hands. Especially as this is an extremely busy 2-lane highway, and vehicles cannot pull over into the other lane even if they wanted to. In fact, truckers usually do: unlike their reputation, they’re in fact the politest road users of the country… but here they have no choice but race right passed you, rubbing your shoulders in the process due to the sheer shortage of space. Terrifying. And if that isn’t sorrowful enough, as you approach Prince George you’ll experience the fruit of some governmental labour, performed by a knucklehead workforce that evidently never rode a bike before: every 5 meters you’ll bounce over a gravel bump that is there for no identifiable reason. Misery on wheels.
Alas, I got there. Eventually. With a break every 10k, as my knee was stopping me on my behalf. It at least allowed me to check out the Nechako White Sturgeon Conservation Centre and the Bednesti Lake Ecological Reserve, where I may or may not have recorded a cougar staring at me (I was in full conviction of taking a photo of a deer, but evaluating the evidence it looks like I might’ve gotten lucky – cougars / pumas / mountain lions don’t exclude humans from their hunt). Barbara, a German expat with many a story, had offered me a couple of nights in her trailer in exchange for some help in the garden. Deal! I always like returning the favor of hospitality in any manner I can come up with, so I appreciated having this clearly defined in advance.
Day 16: Prince George - Sugarbowl Grizzly Den Provincial Park
Distance: 93.5km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with shoulder, which is pretty wide and of good quality today.
Views: Nature, lakes, forest.
Water Situation: Shops at Prince George. There are streams and lakes along the way to filter from.
Food Situation: Supermarkets solely in Prince George. Make sure you buy all the supplies you need here.
(Rain, cloudy, mainly tailwind)
Three nights I took in Prince George. Not only reluctantly giving in to obligated chilling, but going the extra mile (or so I hope) by getting a professional bike fitting done. The men of Cycle Logic know what they’re about. The moment I drove into their shop, they attached my green steel friend into a measurement device, and while I cycled, a variation of lasers, recordings and angles determined the cause of my pain and the solution to my problems. Which can be in some cases a matter of millimetres! A minimal difference in height or length (invisible to the untrained eye) that determines the border between bliss and agony. After a few tweaks and adjustments salvation was near. “As you’re injured, it won’t immediately elevate the pain. It might feel unnatural, but you have to keep pushing through the pain for now. Your body will adjust. It’ll take about 5-6 days before the ache will vanish”, I was assured. And indeed. That is exactly what happened. At last! As I was a day away from hitting the Rockies, it was about time I get my shit together.
I enjoyed my time with Barbara, but I was relieved to leave Prince George behind… a place that, just like most bigger Canadian cities, is tormented by a huge drugs problem. Something that both shocked me and contradicted any expectation I had from a country like Canada. In a homeland marked by a very liberal approach to drugs, I’m not unfamiliar with the occasional addict in the rundown suburbs… but never ever had I seen entire junkie tent camps taking over major prime downtown areas of the cities! A phenomenon also very common in the United States. Listening to resident reports a vague reason was dawning on me: Everyone, including the people I talked to, seem to focus on the junkies as being the problem. But no, they are the result of the problem. A distorted view causing inefficient and insufficient policies leading to this sorry situation.
Luckily, the upcoming leg, leading to the Rockies, couldn’t be further away from Prince George’s urban reality. The traffic died out, the buildings morphed into forests and the addicts were replaced with local wildlife. Bears, more specifically. I had never seen a bear outside of a zoo before and I was absolutely terrified with the anticipation. I had watched the entire YouTube trying to learn all there is about bear encounters. And well… in between Prince George and Banff I was about to see 15 of them! That’ll take the edge off. The first one had got me shrieking and shivering, and I found myself racing in a straight line to the liquor store to calm my nerves. The second one made me realise they always tend to run away from me, as the frightfulness is entirely mutual. And with bear #10 I was so (irrationally?) comfortable, I would lazily get my cell phone out to film my new fluffy friend in a close-up while cycling passed. Of course, we’re talking about black bears here, the good folks in the bear-world. Therefore I wasn’t too thrilled to spend the night at a location dubbed the Sugarbowl GRIZZLY DEN Provincial Park. Unfortunately, that’s where today’s distance took me. Oh yeah hey, why not, just sleeping right in a grizzly den tonight, might spoon mommy bear while at it! Yeah nah, no bueno.
Distance: 93.5km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with shoulder, which is pretty wide and of good quality today.
Views: Nature, lakes, forest.
Water Situation: Shops at Prince George. There are streams and lakes along the way to filter from.
Food Situation: Supermarkets solely in Prince George. Make sure you buy all the supplies you need here.
(Rain, cloudy, mainly tailwind)
Three nights I took in Prince George. Not only reluctantly giving in to obligated chilling, but going the extra mile (or so I hope) by getting a professional bike fitting done. The men of Cycle Logic know what they’re about. The moment I drove into their shop, they attached my green steel friend into a measurement device, and while I cycled, a variation of lasers, recordings and angles determined the cause of my pain and the solution to my problems. Which can be in some cases a matter of millimetres! A minimal difference in height or length (invisible to the untrained eye) that determines the border between bliss and agony. After a few tweaks and adjustments salvation was near. “As you’re injured, it won’t immediately elevate the pain. It might feel unnatural, but you have to keep pushing through the pain for now. Your body will adjust. It’ll take about 5-6 days before the ache will vanish”, I was assured. And indeed. That is exactly what happened. At last! As I was a day away from hitting the Rockies, it was about time I get my shit together.
I enjoyed my time with Barbara, but I was relieved to leave Prince George behind… a place that, just like most bigger Canadian cities, is tormented by a huge drugs problem. Something that both shocked me and contradicted any expectation I had from a country like Canada. In a homeland marked by a very liberal approach to drugs, I’m not unfamiliar with the occasional addict in the rundown suburbs… but never ever had I seen entire junkie tent camps taking over major prime downtown areas of the cities! A phenomenon also very common in the United States. Listening to resident reports a vague reason was dawning on me: Everyone, including the people I talked to, seem to focus on the junkies as being the problem. But no, they are the result of the problem. A distorted view causing inefficient and insufficient policies leading to this sorry situation.
Luckily, the upcoming leg, leading to the Rockies, couldn’t be further away from Prince George’s urban reality. The traffic died out, the buildings morphed into forests and the addicts were replaced with local wildlife. Bears, more specifically. I had never seen a bear outside of a zoo before and I was absolutely terrified with the anticipation. I had watched the entire YouTube trying to learn all there is about bear encounters. And well… in between Prince George and Banff I was about to see 15 of them! That’ll take the edge off. The first one had got me shrieking and shivering, and I found myself racing in a straight line to the liquor store to calm my nerves. The second one made me realise they always tend to run away from me, as the frightfulness is entirely mutual. And with bear #10 I was so (irrationally?) comfortable, I would lazily get my cell phone out to film my new fluffy friend in a close-up while cycling passed. Of course, we’re talking about black bears here, the good folks in the bear-world. Therefore I wasn’t too thrilled to spend the night at a location dubbed the Sugarbowl GRIZZLY DEN Provincial Park. Unfortunately, that’s where today’s distance took me. Oh yeah hey, why not, just sleeping right in a grizzly den tonight, might spoon mommy bear while at it! Yeah nah, no bueno.
Day 17: Sugarbowl Grizzly Den Provincial Park - McBride
Distance: 82.5km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with shoulder, varying quality.
Views: Provincial parks, mountains.
Water Situation: Merely streams and lakes along the way to filter from.
Food Situation: Nothing but a food truck a couple of kilometres after the Slim Creek Rest Stop (might not always be operating, so don’t 100% count on it).
(Heavy rain showers, cloudy with some sun bursts, side- and headwind)
Waking up I happily concluded that the grizzlies didn’t eat me that night, but listening to the rain slamming on my tent I realized I was about to face another challenge that day. A bad omen staying true to itself: it was going to be the rainiest day on the bike so far. A true shame, as I was going to pass the most wonderful environment: the Ancient Forest / Chun T’oh Whudujut Provincial Park, as well as the Erg Mountain Provincial Park and West Twin Protected Area. Natural reserves boasting appealing hikes, as a nice little break from the torture of the bike-seat… but there was no point. I arrived at Ancient Forest, a stop I had looked forward to for days, absolutely dripping, facing downpours with the intensity of the Niagara Falls. Thank heavens there was a little shelter, if only at least an hour too late. I waited around, hoping for clearer skies… but no such luck. At least I could fill my water bottles within minutes by simply positioning them on the parking lot, while entertaining myself with new encounters over a warm cup of coffee inside of the campervan of complete strangers. Canadian weather might disappoint, but Canadian hospitality never does!
Distance: 82.5km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with shoulder, varying quality.
Views: Provincial parks, mountains.
Water Situation: Merely streams and lakes along the way to filter from.
Food Situation: Nothing but a food truck a couple of kilometres after the Slim Creek Rest Stop (might not always be operating, so don’t 100% count on it).
(Heavy rain showers, cloudy with some sun bursts, side- and headwind)
Waking up I happily concluded that the grizzlies didn’t eat me that night, but listening to the rain slamming on my tent I realized I was about to face another challenge that day. A bad omen staying true to itself: it was going to be the rainiest day on the bike so far. A true shame, as I was going to pass the most wonderful environment: the Ancient Forest / Chun T’oh Whudujut Provincial Park, as well as the Erg Mountain Provincial Park and West Twin Protected Area. Natural reserves boasting appealing hikes, as a nice little break from the torture of the bike-seat… but there was no point. I arrived at Ancient Forest, a stop I had looked forward to for days, absolutely dripping, facing downpours with the intensity of the Niagara Falls. Thank heavens there was a little shelter, if only at least an hour too late. I waited around, hoping for clearer skies… but no such luck. At least I could fill my water bottles within minutes by simply positioning them on the parking lot, while entertaining myself with new encounters over a warm cup of coffee inside of the campervan of complete strangers. Canadian weather might disappoint, but Canadian hospitality never does!
As it never cleared up, I continued on in the pissing rain, which indirectly created a more severe problem. You see, in order to not have my sandwiches soak right in my hands, I had to rush under the bridges for my much-needed regular calorie-replenishments. In the pure haste of doing so under the heavy cloudbursts, quickly gathering my most important belongings (as I didn’t feel comfortable leaving those on top of the bridge, out sight), I actually dropped the most crucial item of all… my wallet. Which held my passport, documents, credit cards and money. I only figured that out though about 40km down the road, at the edge of that day’s end destination McBride, half an hour before nightfall. I thought the earth was disappearing right under my feet, dragging my heart straight down into the abyss. A traveller’s worst case scenario! Fighting the tears I tried to focus. “Get your act together, Stephanie, THINK! How are you going to fix this grave situation, caused by you and only you?” I quickly figured there’s only one way, and that’s back. I had a hunch of where I dropped it, most likely UNDER the bridge away from public view, so it’s probably not only still there, it will be sheltered from the rain. I had to hitchhike back to that point with a pick-up truck, so I could take my bicycle, then spend the night there, and tomorrow I would cycle those 40 kilometres all over again (allowing me to keep checking every single bridge, as I passed many, in case I don’t find it where I think it is).
But, ladies and gentlemen, I’m in Canada. Let me share the heartwarming sequence of events, and potentially restore your faith in humanity while at it. Posted at the opposite road side to hitchhike back, the very first pick-up truck passing by pulled over. As the driver was currently at work, he couldn’t drive me there, but he gave me his number so he could take me to my country’s embassy in Edmonton the next day in case I was unable to retrieve my wallet. Pick-up truck #2 pulled up, who also couldn’t take me, but they put a piece of paper in my hand, with what I thought was also a phone number. I quickly put it in my pocket without looking and thanked them for their consideration. Later on I found out it was a 100 dollar bill. Pick-up truck #3 pulled up, and as they were already loading up my bike, a police pick-up truck showed up, called by pick-up truck driver #1. Now… as in my country the law enforcement has the reputation to only write out tickets and show up where they’re least needed, I had a hard time understanding how their presence could assist me in this situation. Turns out, in Canada they’re actually out there to assist their citizens! Without hesitation the police woman loaded my bike onto her vehicle and started driving the entire 40km back, stopping at every single bridge and actively help me look for my wallet. Guess what?! We found it!!! With 400 dollars, my credit cards and passport still inside! Then, on the way back, she drove me to all her favorite wildlife look-out spots, allowing me to see 6 more bears and several moose. Then she gave me a little tour across McBride and drove me to an excellent camping spot alongside the river, right under a rain shelter! I wasn’t officially allowed to camp there, but as she was on duty that night she laughingly guaranteed me to turn a blind eye.
Unable to believe how a disastrous situation turned into an incredibly lucky one, I exhaustingly crawled into my sleeping bag. Little did I know that it was going to get even better the next morning, thanks to this humanitarian-in-blue (keep on reading).
But, ladies and gentlemen, I’m in Canada. Let me share the heartwarming sequence of events, and potentially restore your faith in humanity while at it. Posted at the opposite road side to hitchhike back, the very first pick-up truck passing by pulled over. As the driver was currently at work, he couldn’t drive me there, but he gave me his number so he could take me to my country’s embassy in Edmonton the next day in case I was unable to retrieve my wallet. Pick-up truck #2 pulled up, who also couldn’t take me, but they put a piece of paper in my hand, with what I thought was also a phone number. I quickly put it in my pocket without looking and thanked them for their consideration. Later on I found out it was a 100 dollar bill. Pick-up truck #3 pulled up, and as they were already loading up my bike, a police pick-up truck showed up, called by pick-up truck driver #1. Now… as in my country the law enforcement has the reputation to only write out tickets and show up where they’re least needed, I had a hard time understanding how their presence could assist me in this situation. Turns out, in Canada they’re actually out there to assist their citizens! Without hesitation the police woman loaded my bike onto her vehicle and started driving the entire 40km back, stopping at every single bridge and actively help me look for my wallet. Guess what?! We found it!!! With 400 dollars, my credit cards and passport still inside! Then, on the way back, she drove me to all her favorite wildlife look-out spots, allowing me to see 6 more bears and several moose. Then she gave me a little tour across McBride and drove me to an excellent camping spot alongside the river, right under a rain shelter! I wasn’t officially allowed to camp there, but as she was on duty that night she laughingly guaranteed me to turn a blind eye.
Unable to believe how a disastrous situation turned into an incredibly lucky one, I exhaustingly crawled into my sleeping bag. Little did I know that it was going to get even better the next morning, thanks to this humanitarian-in-blue (keep on reading).
Day 18: McBride – Tete Jeune Cache
Distance: 69.69km (haha)
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with shoulder, which is of bad quality.
Views: Villages, farmland, forest.
Water Situation: Shops in McBride. Streams and rivers to filter from. McBride. Little gas station in TJC.
Food Situation: McBride has restaurants and shops. Expensive little gas station in TJC. If you’re on a budget, stock up in McBride with supplies that’ll last you until Jasper.
(Cloudy, headwind like there's no tomorrow)
Canadian Hospitality – The Sequel… While rubbing the sleep out of my eyes, I figured I might treat myself on some decent breakfast. Yesterday was stressful enough, I deserved a little treat (plus, I suddenly had 100 dollars in my pocket). I cycled back into McBride to the coffeeshop the cop had recommended to me yesterday, and fair enough, once I peeked in I saw her sitting there. She hadn’t spotted me yet, so once I placed my order I told the barista to pay straight away, and cover her bill as well, after all she had done for me. The response? “Can’t do, ma’am, you’re Stephanie right? She already told me she’d pay for anything you might order.” Ohhhh, Caaaaanadahhh!
Where rain was dominating yesterday, today I experienced what headwind truly means. I learned that the wind and I have been buddies so far, but somehow I messed up. It was mad at me, and it would stay mad until well into Newfoundland, no matter what people would jabber about the wind always going westwards (straight to the land of bullshit, go cycle across entire Canada and then I’m willing to listen to you again). Nothing short of a storm blasted right in my face, persistently pushing me backwards. Big chunks I had to walk with my bicycle in my hand, as I was simply incapable of moving forward. Thank god (nah just myself) for having decided to only cycle until Tête Jeune Cache today, a distance of - I kid you not – EXACTLY 69.69km. It coincided with the address of a Warm Showers cycle couple, but also with my willingness to be outside. Zero joy today.
Distance: 69.69km (haha)
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with shoulder, which is of bad quality.
Views: Villages, farmland, forest.
Water Situation: Shops in McBride. Streams and rivers to filter from. McBride. Little gas station in TJC.
Food Situation: McBride has restaurants and shops. Expensive little gas station in TJC. If you’re on a budget, stock up in McBride with supplies that’ll last you until Jasper.
(Cloudy, headwind like there's no tomorrow)
Canadian Hospitality – The Sequel… While rubbing the sleep out of my eyes, I figured I might treat myself on some decent breakfast. Yesterday was stressful enough, I deserved a little treat (plus, I suddenly had 100 dollars in my pocket). I cycled back into McBride to the coffeeshop the cop had recommended to me yesterday, and fair enough, once I peeked in I saw her sitting there. She hadn’t spotted me yet, so once I placed my order I told the barista to pay straight away, and cover her bill as well, after all she had done for me. The response? “Can’t do, ma’am, you’re Stephanie right? She already told me she’d pay for anything you might order.” Ohhhh, Caaaaanadahhh!
Where rain was dominating yesterday, today I experienced what headwind truly means. I learned that the wind and I have been buddies so far, but somehow I messed up. It was mad at me, and it would stay mad until well into Newfoundland, no matter what people would jabber about the wind always going westwards (straight to the land of bullshit, go cycle across entire Canada and then I’m willing to listen to you again). Nothing short of a storm blasted right in my face, persistently pushing me backwards. Big chunks I had to walk with my bicycle in my hand, as I was simply incapable of moving forward. Thank god (nah just myself) for having decided to only cycle until Tête Jeune Cache today, a distance of - I kid you not – EXACTLY 69.69km. It coincided with the address of a Warm Showers cycle couple, but also with my willingness to be outside. Zero joy today.
Day 19: Tete Jeune Cache – Jasper National Park
Distance: 105km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with shoulder, which is of bad quality.
Views: Forest, mountains.
Water Situation: Streams and rivers to filter from. Little gas station in TJC, Visitor Centre and gas station 18km later.
Food Situation: Expensive little gas station in TJC. Another gas station 18km later, also expensive.
(Cloudy, mild wind, heavy rain without pause)
The weather just wouldn’t turn around. Today the wind decided to save its energy (for later), but the rain flawlessly continued where it left off 2 days ago. We’re talking absolute washout. I might as well have driven straight through the river, I achieved the same level of soppiness. Good moment for BC to decide they’re out of shelters. I didn’t see any for 105 kilometres straight, so there wasn’t a second of relief. I was eating my lunch crouching towards a little highway roadmap, failing to prevent my sub to sponge itself full with rainwater. After 70km a park ranger pitied me and let me shiver inside of his pitch dark woodshed for 10 minutes. Pretty miserable in all regards, but somehow, SOMEHOW, I was in a great mood. Boy, you had me whistling! Brain damage, perhaps. I mean, electronics malfunction after water damage, who says we’re immune to it?
Maybe it had something to do with wrapping up the huge province of British Columbia after 19 days and 1687.8 kilometres. An achievement of proportion in my lifespan, yet only the beginning. The excitement of pedalling into a new province, which are the size of about 3 European countries, is just indescribable. A thorough veni-vidi-vici-sensation. And what a province it has been! I had no idea yet, as besides Montreal and Ottawa, BC is all I had seen so far… but I was about to hit the Prairies, which would teach a severe and earnest lesson about the overwhelming splendour of this downright majestic province… by abruptly taking it all away, without warning. To be continued
Distance: 105km
GPS: All Trails
Terrain: Asphalt with shoulder, which is of bad quality.
Views: Forest, mountains.
Water Situation: Streams and rivers to filter from. Little gas station in TJC, Visitor Centre and gas station 18km later.
Food Situation: Expensive little gas station in TJC. Another gas station 18km later, also expensive.
(Cloudy, mild wind, heavy rain without pause)
The weather just wouldn’t turn around. Today the wind decided to save its energy (for later), but the rain flawlessly continued where it left off 2 days ago. We’re talking absolute washout. I might as well have driven straight through the river, I achieved the same level of soppiness. Good moment for BC to decide they’re out of shelters. I didn’t see any for 105 kilometres straight, so there wasn’t a second of relief. I was eating my lunch crouching towards a little highway roadmap, failing to prevent my sub to sponge itself full with rainwater. After 70km a park ranger pitied me and let me shiver inside of his pitch dark woodshed for 10 minutes. Pretty miserable in all regards, but somehow, SOMEHOW, I was in a great mood. Boy, you had me whistling! Brain damage, perhaps. I mean, electronics malfunction after water damage, who says we’re immune to it?
Maybe it had something to do with wrapping up the huge province of British Columbia after 19 days and 1687.8 kilometres. An achievement of proportion in my lifespan, yet only the beginning. The excitement of pedalling into a new province, which are the size of about 3 European countries, is just indescribable. A thorough veni-vidi-vici-sensation. And what a province it has been! I had no idea yet, as besides Montreal and Ottawa, BC is all I had seen so far… but I was about to hit the Prairies, which would teach a severe and earnest lesson about the overwhelming splendour of this downright majestic province… by abruptly taking it all away, without warning. To be continued
After British Columbia: 19 days, 1687.8k
Quick Budget Fact Overview
Canada Facts
Short History Recap
Ice Age: First humans migrate from Asia. 11th century: Norse establish first known European settlement on Newfoundland island. 1583: Newfoundland England's first overseas colony. 1701: 38 indigenous groups sign peace treaty with France. ’56: Seven Years' War between New France and larger / economically-stronger British colonies. ’63: Treaty of Paris → England acquires all French colonies east of the Mississippi incl. New France (becomes Quebec). ‘74: Quebec Act recognises French language & Roman Catholic religion. ‘76 onwards: Refugees from American War of Independence settle in Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, Quebec & Ontario. 1800s: Immigration from UK. ’37-38: Armed rebellions, dissatisfaction with ruling elites, poverty and social divisions. ’67: British North America Act → unites Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia and New Brunswick in Dominion of Canada. ’85: Canadian Pacific railroad. 1914: WWI → Canada fights on side of England and France. ’39: WWII → Canadian forces in Europe and Atlantic. ’49: Founder member of Nato. ’50: Canada/UN participates in War in Korea. ’65: New flag. ’70: Front de Liberation du Quebec kidnap an English trade official and murder a Quebec minister. ’82: England transfers final legal powers over to Canada. New constitution. ’91: Canadian forces participate in Gulf War. ’92: Canada, US & Mexico finalise North American Free Trade Agreement (Nafta). ’95: Referendum in Quebec rejects independence by a margin of 1%. ’99: Territory of Nunavut created in northern Canada (self-governing region with majority of indigenous population). 2002: Troops in Afghanistan. ’10: Winter Olympics. ’14: Mission to map Arctic seabed, in support of bid to extend territory up to North Pole. ’16: Free trade agreement with EU. ’17: Promised compensation to indigenous people who were kidnapped to be brought up by primarily white middle-class families. New trade deal replacing Nafta.
Canada Facts
- Capital: Ottawa
- Language: English, French
- Population: ± 39 mln (Ottawa: 1.76mln)
- Sq km: ± 9.985 (Montreal: 365)
- Currency: Canadian Dollar ($ - CAD)
- Electricity Outlet: A + B / 120 V / 60 Hz. Check here.
- Country Code Phone: +1
- Emergency Phone: 911
- Visa: Some countries need to apply for a visa, which can be done here or here.The ones that don’t need to apply for a visa waiver, called an ETA, which is a very cheap and fast process.
- Vaccinations: None.
- Climate: The country is so huge, that we’re dealing with several climate zones. The far north has a Tundra Climate (ET). Below that a zone of Subarctic Climate (Dfc), with patches of Dwc and Dsc. The southern stretch along the US border is mainly Humid Continental (Dfb), with patches of Temperate Oceanic (Cfb).
- High season: June-September. Summer is most pleasant due to the harsh climates in the colder seasons.
Short History Recap
Ice Age: First humans migrate from Asia. 11th century: Norse establish first known European settlement on Newfoundland island. 1583: Newfoundland England's first overseas colony. 1701: 38 indigenous groups sign peace treaty with France. ’56: Seven Years' War between New France and larger / economically-stronger British colonies. ’63: Treaty of Paris → England acquires all French colonies east of the Mississippi incl. New France (becomes Quebec). ‘74: Quebec Act recognises French language & Roman Catholic religion. ‘76 onwards: Refugees from American War of Independence settle in Nova Scotia, Prince Edward Island, Quebec & Ontario. 1800s: Immigration from UK. ’37-38: Armed rebellions, dissatisfaction with ruling elites, poverty and social divisions. ’67: British North America Act → unites Ontario, Quebec, Nova Scotia and New Brunswick in Dominion of Canada. ’85: Canadian Pacific railroad. 1914: WWI → Canada fights on side of England and France. ’39: WWII → Canadian forces in Europe and Atlantic. ’49: Founder member of Nato. ’50: Canada/UN participates in War in Korea. ’65: New flag. ’70: Front de Liberation du Quebec kidnap an English trade official and murder a Quebec minister. ’82: England transfers final legal powers over to Canada. New constitution. ’91: Canadian forces participate in Gulf War. ’92: Canada, US & Mexico finalise North American Free Trade Agreement (Nafta). ’95: Referendum in Quebec rejects independence by a margin of 1%. ’99: Territory of Nunavut created in northern Canada (self-governing region with majority of indigenous population). 2002: Troops in Afghanistan. ’10: Winter Olympics. ’14: Mission to map Arctic seabed, in support of bid to extend territory up to North Pole. ’16: Free trade agreement with EU. ’17: Promised compensation to indigenous people who were kidnapped to be brought up by primarily white middle-class families. New trade deal replacing Nafta.
Budget Bites
Sleep Cheap
- Main Supermarket Chains Canada: Sobeys, Metro, Walmart, No Frills, Foodland, Maxi, Your Independent Grocer, Real Canadian Superstore, Safeway.
- Local Dishes: Poutine (fries with cheese curds and gravy), Tourtiere (meat pie), Wild Pacific Salmon, Pate Chinois (layered ground beef, cream corn and mashed potato), Alberta Beef, Rappie Pie (grated potatoes pattie with pork fat, sea food and ground meat), Hodge Podge (vegetable/potato stew), Yukon Reindeer, Caraquets (oysters), Nova Scotia / Newfoundland Lobster, Fish and Brewis (hard biscuits mixed with cod or pork), Pealmeal Bacon (broiled lean pork loin), Split Pea Soup (incl. pork), Jiggs Dinner (beef, greens and split pea pudding), Fiddle Heads (cooked rolled fern leaves), Bannock (typical bread), Beavertails (deepfried bread with sweet toppings / Canadian donut), Montreal Bagel (boiled in honeyed water), Trempettes (crispy sweet pancakes), Touton (thick pancake), Cipaille (meat pie), Maple Taffy / Tire d’Erable (maple syrup frozen over snow), Butter Tarts (pastry), Saskatoon Berry Pie, Nanaimo Bars (crumb-custard-chocolate cake), Pouding Chomeur (cake with hot syrup), Cretons (pork spread), Oreilles de Crisses (deepfried pork rinds).
- The Veg Situation: Going veg is not so complicated in Canada, as vegetarianism and veganism is widely accepted. Most supermarkets contain veg products, be it very processed at times. Veg restaurants can be found here.
- National Drink: Ceasar Cocktail (Canadian bloody mary, sometimes with food hanging off of it), beer, wine.
Sleep Cheap
- Hostels / Hotels / Guesthouses: You probably knew already, before even booking your trip, that visiting Canada isn’t cheap. This goes for accommodation as well. Without being paid to say so, I love Booking.com: They have the biggest selection, are transparent about the final price and have an efficient search engine tailored to your specific needs (cheapest first!). If you use it often enough, Genius-discounts are applied. Air BnB is not what it used to be, price-wise, but in Canada they usually offer cheaper stays than in hotels or even hostels. Be mindful of the additional booking and cleaning costs though, as they can really add up. Writer’s Choice: In BC I mainly stayed with hosts of the Warm Showers network, with some Couchsurfing stays. The other nights I camped out.
- Couchsurfing: allows you to stay with locals. Nowadays it has a moderate sign-up cost (unless you put a third-world country as homebase), but paying extra for verification is unnecessary: Positive reviews are way more important. Once active, there are no costs for staying at someone’s house. In order to get accepted, make sure to write an elaborate review explaining why you applied to this specific profile and think you and your host are a good match (copy-pastes tend to be ignored). The Couchsurfing community in Canada definitely is a rather active one, incl. events organized in most of the cities. If your’re biketouring you can also look into Warm Showers, which is a bikepacking community focussing primarily on 1-night stays.
- Wild Camping: is officially legal in Canada. You can pitch your tent anywhere on crown land and you’ll even be abe to find free camping spots. The WikiCamps App Canada is extremely useful for finding these, with community reviews. If public land is scarce, you can ask permission to camp on someone’s private land. Canadians are very kind and hospitable and will likely allow you to do so. In national and provincial parks camping is only allowed on designated campsites or with a permit, and you’ll have to pay a nightly fee (wild camping in these areas is heavily fined).
Mama Said
Transport
Next?
- Safety: Canada is a very safe country with a low crime rate. Outside of the main cities, I met people who don’t lock their houses or cars. In nature, there are several wide animals to take into account, including black bears, grizzly bears, rattle snakes, coyotes, lynxes and cougars.
- Tap Water: is safe to drink.
- The best credit/debit card for traveling is Wise, as they use the live conversion rates with minimal exchange fees. Wise also has the lowest fees for sending money to foreign accounts. That said, I do find their customer service rather questionable. Revolut is comparable, but they have higher exchange fees in the weekend and less wallet-options. Also, you can only wire money to Revolut in the currency you opened the account with, whereas Wise has IBAN’s from a wide variety of currencies, so you don’t have to pay a double exchange fee. Both Revolut and Wise have the option to open a Canadian Dollar wallet. Most Canadian ATMs charge a fee for cash outs, but card payments are accepted everywhere.
- Simcard: Data is known to be incredibly expensive in Canada, with one of the highest rate-per-gb in the world. Prices are even higher if you buy your SIM at the airport. Therefore, either go to the flagship stores to buy a sim (yes, you also pay seperately for the sim, without anything on it), or simply buy one in supermarkets, post offices, gas stations and even in the Dollarama. You can then add credit or a bundle online or via the app. The brands with the cheapest deals are known to be Lucky Mobile, Chatr, Koodo Mobile and Fido (although still terrible money-worth compared to basically everywhere else in the world). The best network coverage is known to be by Telus, Bell and Rogers. If your phone supports eSims, this might be worth looking into, as it’s in most cases more affordable. I used Lucky Mobile which had the cheapest data packages (sim bought in Dollarama), and noticed I had a similar coverage compared to any of the more expensive brands.
Transport
- Walking: Montreal is a pedestrian friendly city. Yet, as it’s rather big, alternative transport from neighbourhood to neighbourhood might be recommended.
- Cycling: Montreal has 1065km of bicycle lanes. Find a map here. There’s a bikesharing system called BIXI, which charges an unlocking fee and a rate-per-minute.
- Public Transport: Montreal has buses and an efficient metro system. You can pay per ride (incl. 1 transfer to bus) or 2 rides, or get a 3-day, unlimited evening, unlimited weekend or week ticket. Oddly enough, the week ticket runs from Monday to Sunday, so if you buy it on a Sunday it only works one day. The weekend ticket starts Friday 4PM. You can pay at the ticket machines, at the metro desks or get an Opus Card. Buses also sell tickets. Children travel free.
- Taxi / Uber: Canada has taxi apps such as Uber, Lyft and Zoomzoom. Car2Go is a car sharing app.
- Train: Canada has a train network operated by Via Rail, but this is a notoriously expensive option (generally double the bus prices, which are also not cheap). Book as early as possible and buy tickets on Tuesday to save some money. There’s a train line to the suburbs as well, called Exo.
- Car Rental: This is not a cheap endeavour in Canada. However, the best deals can generally be found when the car is picked up from an airport.
- Airport: Montreal Pierre Elliott Trudeau International Airport. Reached by Bus 747 (special ticket needed) runs 24/7.
- Hitchhiking: is relatively safe and easy in Canada, but definitively not common. Don’t bother with the ride-share websites or Facebook groups, as people dare to ask more than the bus and even train tickets. More info on hitchhiking in and out of Montreal can be found on Hitchwiki.
Next?
- In Canada: Alberta.
- International Destinations Close By: United States, Greenland.
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